Nitrate test accuracy     11/9/13 Hello again Mr. . F <Andrei> I am using a different message because the topic is different. I need your opinion on this: I have 2 Salifert nitrate tests produced in the same time , they will expire on 2015. They both indicate a bit less than 25 ppm of nitrates on my tank. I have lots of SPS, growing, I run biopellets, have a sump full of liverock , the famous basement refugium with 18 cm of DSB and Chaetomorpha that we were talking about ( 3 weeks old though ) and a skimmer rated for twice the volume of water that I employ ( AquaMedic ACone 3.0 ) . So a friend sent me the new Seachem nitrite/nitrate test, brand new. I do the test and surprise: less than 2 ppm of nitrates. This particular test has a reference solution so I used it with the Salifert test: another surprise: even though the test solution was supposed to have 10 ppm of nitrates and was unopened so no evaporation or air contact the same test that said that my tank has 25 ppm nitrates indicated 2 ppm on this one. So I used again this test solution but this time to test the Seachem test, and it showed 10 ppm as it should. What do you think? <Mmm, appears that the Salifert kits may well be off... do both measure Nitrogen as Nitrate? OR Total Nitrate?> On the other side, I attached a photo of one of my Acroporid that shows some signs of very slow tissue lost. Can this be connected to nitrate concentration. <Could be a variable, yes> The same Acropora shows signs of growing and polyp extension. Thank you again, Andrei <Welcome. B>

Monti Cap with fuzzy specs, rdg.  02/13/13 Hello crew! My name is Benjamin and love your site as it has steered me in the right way many times. A little about my tank: 90 gallon display with 20 gallon sump. I have two Radion gen1 for lighting, a MP60 and MP40, over kill but have them tuned down, remora c skimmer, and 20% water changes every other week. I just tested my water parameters and they are the following: calcium 450ish, How alkalinity 7 to 7.4, magnesium , ammonia , nitrite , nitrate . <... numbers?> I have lately noticed white patches on my Monti cap. During the day the patches are smooth and have a slight shine to them. The patches are near the edges and in the middle. I know it is not growth because it looks different. During the night the patches turn more fuzzy like and sways in the current. Similar how GHA looks, when first sprouting.  It has been brought to my attention it maybe Nudis but I don't think so since it does not look like them from pictures I have seen and the patches do not move. It also has been mentioned that my Pocillopora could be spawning off and be burning the Monti? Not sure if this is the cause or possible, what are your thoughts? <Don't think so; no> I have had this Monti cap for a year and a half without any issues. In fact it has grown quit largely from the little frag it was. My tribal blenny lives under the cap and I started wondering if he could be causing any issues? I am able to view the bottom of the cap at a certain angle and I noticed that towards the center of the cap, it is brown underneath however; on the top side it looks very healthy without any patches.  I am at a loss what this could be causing this and how to correct the issue. I attached a photo and you can see the patches towards the lower left. There are a few more to the upper left and middle right but it is harder to see because it blends in with the growth. The camera does not do a good job distinguishing between the too. Your help is very welcomed and thanks for your help. Have a good night or day <See WWM re Acroporid health... Bob Fenner>

Acropora, hlth.      12/23/12
Good morning Crew, Shawn here.
Hope all are well.
 <Ah yes; thank you>
A quick question regarding an SPS coal. The tips of one of my favorite Acroporas have recently bleached and now are covered in a brown algae.
Should I break off the dead tips or let nature take its course.
<If it bugs you, you could/can simply break off the bad tips; but if not; I'd leave them be. There isn't much/any real danger from the algae et al. encroaching on healthy live tissue in a system of good circumstances>
Thanks for your help and all have a Merry Christmas.
Shawn
<And for you and yours. Bob Fenner>

Acropora Agonistes    11/26/12 Hello All, <David> I'm having fits with my sps lately.  Let me give a little history.  My tank was set up 18 months ago running an octopus skimmer and ecobak bio pellets.  Things were going well and I was beginning to see good continuous growth but alkalinity was always an effort to keep stable (I dose 2 part and keep magnesium well regulated).  Because I was concerned about alkalinity getting too high in a bio pellet system, I let my alkalinity drift down a bit and things continued to look okay. <With you so far> About three months ago it all went pear shaped.  Phosphates were getting higher (0.07ish) so I used a little liquid phosphate remover. <Lanthanum I'll take it>  Corals started keeling over the course of days.  I went with massive water changes, stopping phosphate remover, and taking the pellets out of the system (I felt like I was working too hard to keep everything in a sweet spot).  <Agreed> I tried to go with a much more traditional system with a longer track record of success.  I went with Purigen and gFO in separate reactors. Things started working again.  Growth was great for a while.  I refreshed the GFO and things were going alright.  After a few weeks, a new batch of GFO, half as much, and things start going markedly worse. <Remove the GFO> I feed what I think is heavily, with a combination of Cyclop-eeze, Mysis, oyster ova, rotifers, and decamped brine eggs.  I show no nitrates ever <All chemo- and photo-synthates need measurable NO3 and HPO4...>  and for the last two months alkalinity is stable at 177 ppm on a Hanna Checker.  I have also noticed a lot of purple coloration in corals and clams that were more diverse in color. I have attached a sample pic.  Note the shrunken polyps, the dieback, and the dark purple color on what is ideally a yellow and blue coral.  Forgive the poor picture quality. Please advise. With Many Thanks, David. <Mmm, well, you could (I might) simply overfeed what you list to produce essential nutrients (in the water) here... Else-wise, there is some experimentation one can/might do to see if you can discover and restore whatever the rate limiting, missing component is here. Bob Fenner>

Re: Acropora Agonistes    11/27/12 Bob, <David> Thank you for your kind reply.  I'm sure you hear it all the time, but the effort and assistance you give is very much appreciated. <Ahh, welcome> I took out the GFO and, this may just be my imagination, a day later I think I see improvement. <Your situation, circumstances and current observations are more the norm than unusual nowayears w/ the proliferation of "chemical filtrants"... Folks, companies "making money" from their promotion, sale really should self-assess what they're up to... My common statement: "More emphasis on biology, less on technology" would benefit all>  The coral tissue looks like it is encroaching on the algae rather than the other way around.  The only coral not showing some sign of improvement is the one I sent the picture of.  He was the worst off though, so we'll see. Is it possible to see a turnaround that quick? <Yes; think on your being deprived of something essential... like air, oxygen...>   When and how much GFO should I consider (If phosphate gets up to .1? .2?). <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/phosphatemar.htm and the linked HPO4 FAQs files above, and Nutrient Export... There are quite a few ways, means to avoid/exclude Phosphate accumulation> Thanks again for the help! David. <Welcome. BobF> Re: Acropora Agonistes   12/5/12 Bob, <David> Thank you for all the help.  I've run things without the GFO since we spoke about a week ago.  Things are not getting worse and there are hints of improvement.  The problem is my phosphate is now 0.1ppm on my Hanna checker.  It was 0 previously. <Not a problem I assure you> I'm not about to panic.  My understanding is with steady input and decreased export, this is going to happen. <What is going to happen?>  I should just keep things steady and let the creepy crawlies growing and breeding and take up the excess. <Likely so; limited by... whatever is limiting> Assuming all this is correct, my concern is that the jump was pretty quick (from 0 to .1ppm in a week).  I'm going to cut the feedings down to about half until the phosphate reduces appreciably then increase it slowly. <Ok> Is this all correct or have I wildly missed the point?  Any additional advice? Regards, David. <Have I referred you to Marco's piece here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/phosphatemar.htm and the linked files above re HPO4? Bob Fenner> Re: Acropora Agonistes   12/5/12 Bob, <Big D!> Wow, I'm going to have my writing license revoked.  Shortly thereafter, they'll have me taken out back and flogged.  All quite warranted I assure you.  The corrected passage should read: I'm not about to panic. My understanding is with steady input and decreased export, *a temporary increase in phosphate is expected or at least reasonably likely.* <<Ah yes>> My humblest apologies, David. <<No worries all the way about. BobF>>

Montipora caps losing color, nutrient, lambda    6/30/12 Hi crew!! I bought a green Montipora cap 3 months ago and a red one 2 months ago.  Although they are both growing the green one has almost completely lost its' color and the red one is paler but holding on. Here is some background on their circumstances. They are in a 55 gallon with a 30 gal refugium that has been running for 6 years. Lighting is a 4 bulb T5 with 2 AquaSun bulbs, 1 IndigoSun bulb and 1 actinic (system 4 months old). <Mmm, this is not much light... do you have access to a PAR/PUR meter? Do check the strength near where these Montiporas are placed... I'd move up to where the reading is at least 100> Daytime bulbs run for 10 hours a day.  Water parameters: Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate all 0. Phosphate tests out at 0. <Here's at least one explanation for loss of color. All chemophotosynthates need (measurable) NO3 and HPO4... the folks who sell chemical filtrants and gear are wont to explain this... Your Acroporids are starved for essential nutrients>  Calcium 400-450, alkalinity 3.5 meq, pH 8-8.2. I run Chemipure and activated carbon and do weekly 10 gallon water changes with RO/DI water mixed with Tropic Marin Reef (marinated for days). When I first got both of them I started them at the bottom of the tank and moved them (after a month) half way up the tank.  What could be the problem? Water quality, lighting (too much? not enough?)  Any direction you can point me in would be very appreciated. Thanks! Jennifer <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acrosysfaqs.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Montipora caps losing color     7/1/12 Hello Mr. Fenner! Thank you for the very quick response!! I do not have a PAR/PUR meter.  I'll check to see if my LFS has one. <Yes; and/or a local reef/marine club>   In the meantime perhaps I should move both of them higher up in the tank. How should I increase HPO4 and NO3? <Just stop using filtrants... perhaps feed a bit more>  Should I remove the Chemipure or carbon? <Yes> I've been running them to reduce allelopathy. <A good "reason"; but likely your Cnidarians are now "used to each other">  I wondered about nutrients but I feed Rod's and Cyclop-eeze so I thought they would "feed" from that. Again, thank you for your help! Jennifer <Welcome. BobF> Re: Montipora caps losing color     7/1/12 Wow!  Good to know that they might be used to each other by now.  I'll remove immediately.  Will the color come back on the existing coral or will only the new growth have color? <Maybe... one can hope. B>   Thank you so much, Mr. Fenner! Jen

Algae on my Millepora      6/3/12
Hey WWW,
<Mike>
Hope all is well. I have recently had a death in my tank that caused a chain reaction leading to a nitrate spike. I'm happy to say that unlike my first nitrate spike which wiped out most of the tank, this one was contained within a day or two and didn't do much damage yet with the exception of my purple mille started turning white and green in spots (not due to algae at the time). Within a few weeks recovered back its purple color and bleached spots turned dark again. It even grew a little. Unfortunately the spike led to some algae forming in the tank which I have been doing my best to clean. Last week a bit of algae attached to my mille in an area that i cannot clip off... I should have moved it out of the tank while scrubbing in hindsight. I don't want to brush it with a soft brush because I destroyed another sps that way and am wary of dips as those don't often end well for me either. Do you have any ideas of how I could try to get the algae off my mille before it kills it?
<Only indirectly and perhaps too slowly... by providing conditions that disfavour the algae (and perhaps the coral) temporarily... see WWM re algae control... IF the specimen can be moved easily, isolated elsewhere, even availing yourself of a (antibiotic-based) algicide for a few days exposure>
 I lowered the flow and put it in a lower light area
<Ahh!>
 and the piece still looks savable, but the small spot of algae is slowly taking over now. Any ideas on what I could do
here?
<Again, the above... IF this is a blue green (only able to tell by microscopic examination), you might have to break up the piece, discard the bad area... expeditiously>
Thanks,
Mike
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Flatworm id, and Montipora hlth.    4/26/12 Mr. Fenner, <Hey Jeff> I have some new frags in a quarantine tank and I recently noticed what appears to be a few small flatworms.  The first one I saw was on the glass and a few came off the corals during a Coral Rx dip.  I attached a few pics, one through a microscope at 100x, with the hopes that you could id them and advise how to move forward with them. <Do appear to be flatworms; can't tell much more>  If they are a potential pest I would like to keep them out of my main reef. <I would do so>  I read all over you site and everyone seems to have issues with their main display but none dealing with flatworms in quarantine.  I am assuming the approach would be different while in qt. <I would use a commercial de-wormer... Flatworm EXit likely>  I am also attaching a picture of an encrusting Montipora that has a white patch that has developed over the past two days.  My initial thought was Nudibranchs so inspected it and a Montipora cap but didn't see any or any eggs. <Very hard to see... but may not be due to Nudibranch predation>   These frags are also in quarantine and all frags look great except for the one Monti. <I'd remove it to elsewhere>  I understand that there could be numerous reasons for this dead spot but any advice you could give would be much appreciated. <The usual recommendation to visit/read on WWM re Acroporid disease/pests/predator (FAQs) and pulsing iodide-ate additions>  Thanks for you help. Jeff <Welcome. Bob Fenner>

White spot of digitata. 3/26/12 <Evening Giancarlo> So, looks like there is some sort of white spot on this digi. I've had it for about 4/5 months, its been growing fine, and kept its color since day one. Tank parameters are: cal - 410 dropped from 440 about 3 weeks ago Alk was at 3 meq/l 2 weeks ago but test kit finished, and I have not gotten a new one yet. <You need to get one, Alkalinity fluctuations are an issue with SPS corals in general> ph - fluctuates around 8.1 salinity 1.024 <Get this up a bit, 1.025-1.026> amm - 0ni - 0 na - undetectable Phos - 0.00 (Hanna checker) but there is plenty of algae growth in my sump <Although you are reporting zero phosphates and nitrates, there is some nuisance algae in the pic you shared. Make sure you are reviewing your maintenance and phosphate controls. Not necessarily causing this specific issue, but as it relates to keeping a SPS dominated tank which appears to be your goal> Mag - 1300iodine 0.02temp sits around 78 degrees hits about 79 when M/H is on. I had another digi, that was affected by this white spot, so i had cut off the area where the white spot was hoping that would be the end of it, soon enough it seemed like it became more aggressive and took over the entire piece where there was no direct light. i eventually put it in my qt tank, where it died but my q/t does no have proper lighting for sps. Anyway here is a picture of what started about a day or two ago, if anyone has any idea what i could do i would really appreciate the help, my main concern is if this will spread to other colonies, I don't have any other digi's, but i do have plenty of other sps that i am worried about. I run a bit of carbon, and gfo, skimmer is a nac 7 rated for 180 gallons, my system has about 100 gallons total of water (including sump). There are 5 fish in the tank, i have read that soft corals like mushrooms and whatever can have an adverse effect on sps, <Allelopathy, which can be a concern, but the mark is too specific. The chemical warfare would affect the entire coral and impact general health> if this is the verdict i will remove all coral that is not sps related. The area where the spot developed does not get direct light. <A few thoughts come to mind for you to consider. 1. A pest of some sort, perhaps a crab or something more nefarious! The mark is very specific in shape and out of the light. 2. Damage from another coral. Is there anything nearby such as LPS that may be stinging it? at night? 3. Fish picking at it, please list the fish you have. To your other point, you mention this has only happened to M. digitata and not Acropora species, this suggests the digitatas are the specific target. Please respond to some of the above questions and we will see if we can get a more definitive answer> Re: White spot of digitata. 3/27/12 Thanks for the quick response! So i have ordered a Salifert Alk test kit, just Canadian postal service takes their sweet time when delivering things. My maintenance schedule is basically 15 gallons w/c every week. I rarely ever miss a week, it is basically automated so i have no issues staying consistent with those (salt is red sea coral pro). I was having a big issue with algae, (just recently transferred everything into this tank, and i have used about 20 pounds of dry rock), it started off much worse including Cyanobacteria and diatoms everywhere, but the diligent water changes have completely rid all signs of Cyano, and all other algae is steadily reducing. If you have any other suggestions for maintenance i would love to hear it. The damage you noticed on the digi was from another sps, one piece has grown and started to eat away at the digi. so i had to move the piece. The digi has healed up most of the branch that was eaten away except that tip, i was told it would be best to cut off that tip with the algae so new flesh can grow, would you recommend this? <A good suggestion and I have done as much as well> My fish consist of 2 clown fish, 1 fairy wrasse, 1 yellow watchmen goby, and 1 flame angelfish. The Angelfish starting picking at a Pocillopora colony i had, so i decided to give it to a local reefer (the Pocillopora, i still have the flame angel), besides that i had not seen it pick at anything else except for a Stylophora but it happens very rarely, and the style. seems to not have had any ill effects. <The Flame remains a highly suspect citizen!! To that point, my experience with Angels and SPS is that they do not actively try and eat the coral, they are very curious animals and once they settle in on a spot, they can pick it to death.> I have two emerald crabs, and about 6 hermit crabs one being the electric blue, and the others being the red scarlet crabs i believe (all red stay fairly small). Other livestock includes one tuxedo urchin, and one long spine urchin, though i am not sure on the exact species, it had white bands around the spines when it was younger. I also have a single cleaner shrimp, and literally 1 Trochus snail. Sometimes i do hear a snapping noise from the tank, some people have suggested a pistol shrimp, from the past year i have not seen anything, but maybe there is some sort of pest in relation to that noise? <Likely a Pistol Shrimp or a Mantis Shrimp> Nothing is relatively close anymore, to be able to sting it. My dosing consists of SeaChem reef advantage calcium, and reef builder, but i do it manually which becomes a problem with consistency. I am a little hesitant to implement a calcium reactor because of all the stories i have heard over the forums where people have huge spikes in Alk/calcium ending up with huge problems. <Due to poor calibration and maintenance, they can work just fine. Using dosing pumps to administer the 2-part is also a great idea and very easy to control> If you have any suggestions for a reliable means of having consistent parameters, again i would appreciate the help. I hope this info helps, people on my forum suggested Monti eating Nudibranchs? though i don’t see why it would only effect the digitata, and not the Montipora species i have, and i have read that their eating characteristic they have, usually are around the base of the colony moving upwards as they eat the flesh, though i have not completely dismissed this suggestion. <Digitata is a form of Montipora, so it is possible that they might attack it but they are much more frequently found on the plating Montiporas and the M. spongodes. The Nudibranchs are very small, but, if you turn off your water flow and used a turkey baster on that spot, you should be able to see them come off if it is indeed Nudibranchs. That being said, I agree with you that one would normally see them attack from the base and crevices of the coral as they hide in those areas from would be predators> One last bit of info about this frag, there are barnacles living in the piece, at least what i believed are barnacles through research. It looks like half a mini feather duster worm, which comes out and fans the water and goes back into this hole it created in the skeleton. I didn’t think this was an issue but again i don’t want to dismiss anything so i thought it would be best to mention that. <Outside of environmental causes, that is things such as water quality, or a fish picking at it, I cannot give you a definitive answer to what is causing it. I would suggest that if it appears to be growing, expanding, and not healing over, to frag that branch off , and then cut that frag above the damaged area. You will have no pieces that are now affected. You can glue it next to the main piece and they will grow together and you will not know the difference ultimately. If you were to take it out to frag it, I would also suggest a dip in a product like CoralRx or similar just in case any pests are present.> Thanks for your help <You are welcome, Bobby> Giancarlo

Re: White spot of digitata.    4/17/12 Hey bobby, just thought id give you an update on the digi.  Basically it has fully healed up.  I've kept up with my 15 gallon weekly water changes. But I changed the carbon and upped the amount I use.  Anyway all is well. Thanks again for the help, <You are very welcome and glad to hear it all worked out!> Giancarlo

please help me with a brown Acropora question 2/20/12
Hello WetWebMedia Crew, you have an awesome site I have learned a lot from you pages, and I always come here before do anything to my tank or habitants, but now I have a question that I am unable to find and answer so I hope you could help me, I bought this blue Acropora (I don’t know the name, the LFS sell it as mariculture), when it was at the LFS it had a beautiful blue color, it had been at the LFS aquarium for one month before I bought it.
I bring it home and I placed it at the sand for 4 days, after that, since the polyps and the structure looks alike my Acropora tenius (green with blue tips), I placed it at the same level, so the new one could get the same light and the same flow.
<Ok>
It is near (but no close) to the Acropora tenius and a Joe the coral frag,
<... Joe?>
it has a big red mushroom near it too and it’s on a rock in the middle of the tank.
<Mmm, possibility of allelopathy>
My tank is a JBJ 28g NanoCube with the nano tuners led upgrade (30 x 3 watt led CREE at 95%), my other corals at the same level are the Acropora tenius, José the coral frag, Acropora roscoe and a millepora frag all of them are in good shape and with good colors (at least the same color of the internet photos).
Some of my parameters are:
Temperature 81F
SG 1.0265
Ammonium 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0.25 PPM
<A bit low>
KH 8
Calcium 450-500
<Too high... I'd let this drift down to 400 ppm or so>
Magnesium 1250 PPM
<In proportion 3:1 w/ [Ca]>
I have adapted a remora C skimmer and I have my tank under Prodibio regimen.
I feed Oyster fest every other day (at night).
<I'd expand this diet>
Well now the problem, after I placed it at the spot where it is, the Acropora turns brown in a matter of a few days, it started from the base, yesterday I had a brown coral with blue tips and today it is completely brown, well I suppose is better a brown coral than a bleached one.
<Could be just the move...>
Here at my country some people told me that it has too much light and because of that it has an overpopulation of Zooxanthellae.
<Doubtful on both counts>
Other people told me that it needs more light and that is because it browns out (it has a Zooxanthellae overpopulation because of that).
<Again...>
The LFS told me that its just stressed because the change in lights and its a better option to left it where it is for a month or so to see if the color returns before move it up.
<Good advice>
Another LFS told me that is good idea to frag it and place it in different spots to see where it is the better option, I am no doing this, since is a small but a beautiful mini colony.
<I'd hold off>
Well crew I have 3 options to choose from: Move it up, move it down, left it where it is and move it in some time.
<Leave it be>
My logic told me that the better option is to left it where it is, since the other Acros are doing fine at the same light/flow level, and if does not color back to move it up, but I really want your expert opinion before do anything.
<Good>
Thanks a lot for any help
Alex
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: please help me with a brown Acropora question 2/21/12
Thanks a lot for your answer Bob i will let it be and if in one or two months it does not color up i will move it around to find another spot (with more light), but your answer left me another question, when i told you my nitrate is at 0.25 PPM you told is a little bit low, as far as i understand the goal is to keep it at 0,
<Ah no... see WWM re... most all chemosynthates need appreciable NO3 to live>
but i am assuming now i was wrong, so where i want it? could you please clarify me this? thanks a lot for your help
<Search... tools... on... WWM... B>
Re: please help me with a brown Acropora question
Thanks a lot I will do my research on this subject, I really appreciate your help.
<Certainly welcome. B>

Fish living inside Acropora 1/26/12
Hello Gang.
<Vince>
I recently purchased an Acropora about 5" in diameter. Inside the coral there is a crab (your typical smooth shell crab that usually comes with it). I also noticed there is a small purple fish with black eyes hiding inside it. The fish is flat body about 3/4" long. Is the fish harmful to the Acropora?
<Mmm, not likely... from the color, desc., is likely a Caracanthid:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/caracanthidae.htm
Should I remove it? I don't want to remove and risk injuring the fish if it is harmless.
<I wouldn't remove... an interesting addition... is venomous if you do intend to handle>
Thanks in advance.
Kind regards,
Vincent Cheung
<Welcome! Bob Fenner>
Re: Fish living inside Acropora 1/26/12
Hello Bob.
<Big V>
Thanks for the quick response.
<Welcome>
Yes the fish does resemble the Caracanthid now that you pointed me in the right direction. I am surprised it is more related to the lionfish then a goby.
<Neat eh?>
That was a lucky purchase to have a fish as well as a crab with the Acropora. Thanks for the heads up on the venomous part.
<Who said heads up?! Huh, I'll take some of that!>
Regards,
Vincent
<And you, BobF>

Branching Montiporas retracting polyps 11/12/11
HELP!!!, Why would only branching monti's retract polyps??
<A few general reasons... "something" not agreeable in the way of water quality... allelopathy from other life in the system...>
Has anybody else experienced this strange behaviour??
<Sure>
Last week all of my branching Monti's retracted all of their polyps (which had been fully extended for many months prior to this) and look like bald pieces of rock. This happened to 3 different digitata's (peach and purple ones), a ORA Jeremy's Monti, ORA spongodes.
this is really weird and disturbing because ALL other corals (SPS, LPS, Zoas, etc.
<Likely the Zoanthids are the cause here... again, that mysterious "something" upset the Zoas, they in turn released chemicals into the water mal-affecting the Montiporas>
Are not exhibiting this trait whatsoever. I have a sunset Monti and a Rainbow Monti that are still OK, as well as plating Monti's that are ok as well, and all other SPS' have extended polyps including Birds Nests (thick branched and thin), millies, red planet, several chalices, basically all other living inhabitants are OK! System param.s: I have a 125 mixed reef tank with 40 gal sump, protein skimmer, running BRS GFO in a reactor, carbon in a reactor, daily 2 part dosing (Randy Holmes Farley recipe), plenty of flow/water turn over using RKE wave maker setting with 2 Koralia Magnum 7s and 2 4s, plus dual returns from sump.
Temp: 78
SG: 1.026 - 35ppt refractometer (calibrated with 35ppt solution)
CA: 420
AK: 9.2 Hanna checker
PO4: 0.00-0.04 - Hanna checker
NO3: 4 - red sea Pro low level Nitrate test kit, confirmed at SEA with High end Hanna tester.
MG: 1350
15% water changes every 10-14 days
Test param.s weekly
Tank has been set up for 1 1/2 years.
<All the above looks good... I would step up the water changing regimen, and add a bit of chemical filtrant... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/ZoCompF3.htm
and here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and as much of the linked files above as it takes to clue you in here>
Nothing (to my knowledge) has changed in my tank that I can point to that would cause just branching Monti SPS to totally retract their polyps, while everything else is fine, especially since Monti's are supposed to be hardier than most SPS' are.
If anyone has experienced this before and/or can shed some light on this, I would welcome the input.
<Then you're welcomed in turn... Do write back if any of this is unclear, incomplete after reading. Bob Fenner>
Re: Branching Montiporas retracting polyps 11/12/11
Thanks Bob, I was reading on your site that removing too much phosphate can also cause these symptoms of starving the corals, true?
<Mmm, can, as well as too little; but you don't have excessive HPO4, and you report/ed that your other Cnidarians were fine>
I tested my PO4 yesterday with my Hanna checker and it was zero, so I took my gfo reactor and carbon reactor off line to see if letting the PO4 build up some to around 0.04 on my checker would help?
<As well as just simple food additions for your other livestock>
The reason I am leaning that was is based on what my last PO4 reading was before the symptom started showing up (my recorded PO4 level was about 0.05). Could the water be too "clean" for the branching Montis?
<Not likely; no>
Based on the limited information you have about my system, would you still lean toward the Zoanthids?
<Some form/source of allelopathy, yes. The Zoanthids/Mats are the most likely suspect of what you list/ed>
The branching type Monti's that are affected are in different areas of the tank and have been in the same spot for several months before this occurred.
<As I surmised>
One final thought (change that I made just before this happened) I had several smaller power heads for flow in my tank, that were not on any sort of timers or wave makers, so I replaced them and reconfigured my flow with the two Koralia magnum 7s on an RKE wave maker. This has provided a LOT more varied flow for my tank and just after making that change I noticed the branching Monti's retracting all of their polyps.
<Could be a factor as well>
Just want to mention that none of the Montis are directly in front of the power heads and are not getting blasted with flow. Could it be the increased flow is "stirring up" the Zoas released chemicals causing this?
<Yes>
Based on this limited info about my situation, what would you do in this situation?
<Nothing overt. I might increase/pulse whatever source of iodide-ate you utilize, as well as the items mentioned in last email...>
Looking forward to your responses.
Thanks,
<Welcome. BobF>

urgent help needed, Acropora pest 10/12/11
Hello, how are you?
<Fine, thank you>
I stumbled across your site on a search for some urgent answers in regards to one of my gorgeous Acropora corals.
Today I was looking closer then usual when I noticed a black spot starting on the back of it ( this is a dark yellow Acro) then upon closer inspection I realised there is 3 holes(like something is living in it) I then noticed almost invisible long string type things coming out of the hole( I wish I had a camera to take a picture)
<Me too>
These things quickly retracted every time I tried to catch them with my tweezers.
My questions are;
What is this thing?
<Likely Hydrozoan/Hydropolyps>
And how do I get rid of it?
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/hyzoancompfaq.htm
I read I can put super glue over the holes and what ever's living on there will die. Is this true?
<Likely so>
Thanks so much in advance ! Hopefully we can save my Acro!
<If it doesn't show signs of being stung badly... not such a panic... >
Melanie
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Acros dying 8/29/11
Hello WWM crew,
<Jeff>
I have been an obsessive reader of you sight <site> for many months and the information you provide has helped me through the many ups and downs of this hobby. I am having problems and cannot seem to find an answer on your sight to my specific situation. I am having trouble keeping any "SPS" colorful and alive. Numerous trips to my LFS has resulted in the advice of "just wait it out and see what happens" I cannot stand to have another living thing die on me so I turn to you for help.
<Ok!>
The short explanation of my problems is that every SPS frag I bring home starts out seemingly very healthy and colorful and over about a month they slowly lose coloration, end up bleached, and eventually overnight will shed all its tissue. My LFS recommended that I test my water every day to see if there are any fluctuations and the numbers were stable over a full week.
My last test was CA 425, dKH 9.3, Mag 1350, Nitrate 0.2, Phosphate, Ammonia, and Nitrite undetectable,
<Mmm, well, SPS (and most all other chemoautrophs/synthates) need some soluble phosphate and more than 0.2 ppm of NO3. Are you using chemical filtrants?>
Ph 8.2. All tested with Salifert kits. These number were all verified by having the LFS test my water.
My system profile- 100 gallon display, 40 gallon sump,
Lighting- 2x 250 watt single end metal halide on electronic ballast, XM 20k bulbs, and simple retro fit reflectors. Halides run only 7 hours (seems short to me but was actually advised 5 hours by my LFS), lights hung 14 inches above 24" deep tank (seems too high but advised by LFS to hang at 16), no glass shield on halides, T5 actinic for aesthetics only, led moonlights.
I have about 100 lb. of live rock and 100 lb. of sand, skimmer, GFO run in a reactor changed monthly, carbon in a mesh bag floated in sump and changed every other week, ATO with RO for evaporated water, weekly 10% water changes. Flow is from return pump and Vortech mp40 with a turnover of about 40 times per hour. Tank and corals are fed every other night using Eric Borneman's recipe.
Some other info. Four months ago, despite quarantining all livestock, I had an outbreak of Oodinium. I tried treating all fish in a hospital tank but ended up losing all of them. I left my tank fallow for 4 months to try to eliminate as many of the parasites as possible. I now have 2 clowns, a yellow tang, and a neon goby in the tank and doing well. Is there any chance that having no fish for so long might have caused my corals to suffer?
<Mmm, yes... a possibility... their feeding would add some needed nutrient here>
Could it be a lighting issue?
<Can you borrow a PAR meter?>
Compared to the recommendations on your site I feel like my lights aren't low enough and on for long enough. I went on my LFS's advice and it doesn't seem to be working out for my SPS.
<Again, the meter, and possibly mounting such frags up high, on rock...
nearer the lights>
All my LPS (hammer coral, 2 torch corals, 4 Acans), my Zoanthids, and Ricordea have done well and look healthy and colorful.
<Oooh... the Euphyllias and Zoanthids may be a large contributing cause to your mortality here. Are you familiar w/ allelopathogenic effects? Please read here re: http://wetwebmedia.com/CorlCompArt.htm
and as much of the Related mat.s linked above as you deem prudent>
It's just my SPS that have suffered. I have lost 2 Acros and one Montipora cap over the last few months, with the most recent being this morning. I only have 2 Acro frags left and a digitata and they are all either slightly bleached or browned out. It is very upsetting that I continue to lose these wonderful living things. I am a little frustrated with the wait and see approach of my LFS so I turn to a higher source. Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for you time.
Jeff
<Well... let's re-cap: Likely your lighting is fine but I'd borrow/use a PAR meter to check. Your system is lacking at least the essential nutrients mentioned... And definitely there's likely an issue w/ your SPS losing out to your established LPS. There may well be more, so I encourage you to peruse here: http://wetwebmedia.com/acrodisf7.htm
"and the linked files above". Bob Fenner>
Acros dying 9/22/11
Hello WWM
crew,
<Jeff>
I have been an obsessive reader of you sight <site> for many months and the information you provide has helped me through the many ups and downs of this hobby. I am having problems and cannot seem to find an answer on your sight to my specific situation. I am having trouble keeping any "SPS" colorful and alive. Numerous trips to my LFS has resulted in the advice of "just wait it out and see what happens" I cannot stand to have another living thing die on me so I turn to you for help.
<Ok!>
The short explanation of my problems is that every SPS frag I bring home starts out seemingly very healthy and colorful and over about a month they slowly lose coloration, end up bleached, and eventually overnight will shed all its tissue. My LFS recommended that I test my water every day to see if there are any fluctuations and the numbers were
stable over a full week.
My last test was CA 425, dKH 9.3, Mag 1350, Nitrate 0.2, Phosphate, Ammonia, and Nitrite undetectable,
<Mmm, well, SPS (and most all other chemoautrophs/synthates) need some soluble phosphate and more than 0.2 ppm of NO3. Are you using chemical filtrants?>
Ph 8.2. All tested with Salifert kits. These number were all verified by having the LFS test my water.
My system profile- 100 gallon display, 40 gallon sump,
Lighting- 2x 250 watt single end metal halide on electronic ballast, XM 20k bulbs, and simple retro fit reflectors. Halides run only 7 hours (seems short to me but was actually advised 5 hours by my LFS), lights hung 14 inches above 24" deep tank (seems too high but advised by LFS to hang at 16), no glass shield on halides, T5 actinic for aesthetics only, led moonlights.
I have about 100 lb. of live rock and 100 lb. of sand, skimmer, GFO run in a reactor changed monthly, carbon in a mesh bag floated in sump and changed every other week, ATO with RO for evaporated water, weekly 10% water changes. Flow is from return pump and Vortech mp40 with a turnover of about 40 times per hour. Tank and corals are fed every other night using Eric Borneman's recipe.
Some other info. Four months ago, despite quarantining all livestock, I had an outbreak of Oodinium. I tried treating all fish in a hospital tank but ended up losing all of them. I left my tank fallow for 4 months to try to eliminate as many of the parasites as possible. I now have 2 clowns, a yellow tang, and a neon goby in the tank and doing well. Is there any chance that having no fish for so long might have caused my corals to suffer?
<Mmm, yes... a possibility... their feeding would add some needed nutrient here>
Could it be a lighting issue?
<Can you borrow a PAR meter?>
Compared to the recommendations on your site I feel like my lights aren't low enough and on for long enough. I went on my LFS's advice and it doesn't seem to be working out for my SPS.
<Again, the meter, and possibly mounting such frags up high, on rock... nearer the lights>
All my LPS (hammer coral, 2 torch corals, 4 Acans), my Zoanthids, and Ricordea have done well and look healthy and colorful.
<Oooh... the Euphyllias and Zoanthids may be a large contributing cause to your mortality here. Are you familiar w/ allelopathogenic effects? Please read here re: http://wetwebmedia.com/CorlCompArt.htm
and as much of the Related mat.s linked above as you deem prudent>
It's just my SPS that have suffered. I have lost 2 Acros and one Montipora cap over the last few months, with the most recent being this morning. I only have 2 Acro frags left and a digitata and they are all either slightly bleached or browned out. It is very upsetting that I continue to lose these wonderful living things. I am a little frustrated with the wait and see approach of my LFS so I turn to a higher source. Any
help you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for you time.
Jeff
<Well... let's re-cap: Likely your lighting is fine but I'd borrow/use a PAR meter to check. Your system is lacking at least the essential nutrients mentioned... And definitely there's likely an issue w/ your SPS losing out to your established LPS. There may well be more, so I encourage you to peruse here: http://wetwebmedia.com/acrodisf7.htm
"and the linked files above". Bob
Fenner>
Re: Acros dying 9/22/11
Mr. Fenner,
<Jeff>
Thank you for responding to my questions. Your response and the links gave me quite a bit of helpful information. It took me a while but I got my hands on a PAR meter and I was hoping to get your opinion on my readings.
Numbers directly under the bulb at the surface are 367, midway down around 150, and about 75 at the sand. Most of my Acropora are placed at a par value around 150, the highest being 200 and the lowest being 120. I have a Montipora digitata at 120 and a capricornis at 180. Would these levels be enough to keep SPS corals alive and colorful?
<Yes... a bit low on the M. cap. side, but anything in the hundred plus range is of use>
If not, would lowering my lights be a good idea? From what I read those numbers seem a bit low. I know that there is no specific number for keeping Acropora alive and any numbers you might provide would just be a guess as to the needs of specific corals but any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
<I myself wouldn't change the position of the lights, but would place future animals per the "chart/graph" of your PAR reading/understanding going forward... i.e. less-intense light needing organisms in the low PAR areas>
I have taken steps to decrease the allelopathy that was likely occurring in my tank. I have increased my water changes to 20% per week, increased my use of carbon, and have been more diligent about my maintenance. I am also letting my nitrates and phosphates rise slightly as you recommended to provide the corals with the nutrients they need.
<All good moves>
I have a hammer coral that I would like to move to a place further away from any other corals but it has begun encrusting on the rocks. Would it damage the coral if I were to remove it from the rock once it has begun to encrust?
<Not likely if this colony is in good shape. You likely know that extracted
(wild) corals are removed this way>
I have read all the information in the links you provided and am hopeful that I can take all the necessary steps to solve this problem. Again, any advice or information you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for your time.
Jeff
<Certainly welcome. BobF>
Re: Acros dying 9/22/11
Mr. Fenner,
<Jeff>
Thank you for responding to my questions. Your response and the links gave me quite a bit of helpful information. It took me a while but I got my hands on a PAR meter and I was hoping to get your opinion on my readings. Numbers directly under the bulb at the surface are 367, midway down around 150, and about 75 at the sand. Most of my Acropora are placed at a par value around 150, the highest being 200 and the lowest being 120. I have a Montipora digitata at 120 and a capricornis at 180. Would these levels be enough to keep SPS corals alive and colorful?
<Yes... a bit low on the M. cap. side, but anything in the hundred plus range is of use>
If not, would lowering my lights be a good idea? From what I read those numbers seem a bit low. I know that there is no specific number for keeping Acropora alive and any numbers you might provide would just be a guess as to the needs of specific corals but any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
<I myself wouldn't change the position of the lights, but would place future animals per the "chart/graph" of your PAR reading/understanding going forward... i.e. less-intense light needing organisms in the low PAR
areas>
I have taken steps to decrease the allelopathy that was likely occurring in my tank. I have increased my water changes to 20% per week, increased my use of carbon, and have been more diligent about my maintenance. I am also letting my nitrates and phosphates rise slightly as you recommended to provide the corals with the nutrients they need.
<All good moves>
I have a hammer coral that I would like to move to a place further away from any other corals but it has begun encrusting on the rocks. Would it damage the coral if I were to remove it from the rock once it has begun to encrust?
<Not likely if this colony is in good shape. You likely know that extracted (wild) corals are removed this way>
I have read all the information in the links you provided and am hopeful that I can take all the necessary steps to solve this problem. Again, any advice or information you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.
Jeff
<Certainly welcome. BobF>

Green SPS Color Fading 9/28/10
Hi there,
<Hello Matt>
Was wondering if you could help me, I've got lots of Acro's...blues staying strong, purples staying strong, but my green cap and green Acro suharsonoi and granulosa are fading bit by bit daily just recently. Had these corals for a year or more. Any ideas what is going on? Is there a lack of iron or something else going on?
<You've given me nothing to base an answer on. No water parameters, lighting, size of tank, other coral species present in system, etc.>
Thanks for your help,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
-Matt
Re Green SPS Color Fading/Acroporidae Health 9/29/10
<Hello Matt, and thank you for updating me.>
salinity: 1.025
temp 77-78
ammonia 0
nitrite 0
nitrate 0
phos 0
calc 440
Alk 10dkh
Mag 1300
<pH? If using an aluminum based phosphate remover and pH is running 8.0 or lower, aluminum can be leached into the system which corals do not take kindly to. Better to use an iron based remover such as RowaPhos.>
all stable.
3 250watt 20k halides
135 gallon tank, 160 gal system
all stony corals - some white and indo xenia
ASM G3 skimmer
calcium reactor
carbon/Phosguard media
medium fish load.
Another fellow farmer suggested I test for and add Lugol's solution if necessary. I used Salifert iodine test and added recommended dose of Kent's Lugol's solution. My theory is I've noticed my Xenia colonies growing very large...since they are fast consumers of iodine, possibly they are competing for all the iodine in the tank leaving very little for the Sps to utilize? what would u <you> say on that?
<I have heard reports that Lugol's solution enhances Xenia growth and excessive iodine levels can also be detrimental in some corals. I have not found any documented proof where iodine plays a role in the success of Xenia.>
Have you ever experienced a dulling or paling of green color in Sps coral before?
<Acropora corals are likely the most susceptible corals that will react to any changes in lighting, temperature, and water parameters. They are also susceptible to rapid tissue necrosis or sloughing, and this may be what you are experiencing. You may want to relocate to an area of higher water movement and see if this helps. Reading here will give you more information on the Staghorn Corals. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acropori.htm>
Much appreciated,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Matt

Struggle to keep hard corals: Acropora mysterious deaths 5/13/2010
Hi Tim here.
<Hi Tim.>
I have searched WWM for help but can not find anything definitive for my problem. My tank has been running for a little under 3 years now it's 5'x2'x2' w/sump and refugium, skimmer but no reactors. Total volume around 700L (185 Gallon I think?)
<Yes.>
we have a small fish load and a variety of SPS, LPS, Soft, Mushroom and polyps all of which are doing great. Water parameters are good with the occasional slight rise in nitrate, we have excellent circulation from a Vortech MP40w wave maker and we have 2x 250w (20000K) halogens.
<All sounds good.>
Our problem is we can not seem to keep any Acropora. We have tried several times but every time they die. Can you please help
<Four things immediately come to mind based upon your description. First, how are your salinity, calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium levels? All of those need to be at 'reef' levels - 1.024 - 1.026, calcium of 400 - 500 ppm, alkalinity dKH 10 - 12 and magnesium 1200 - 1500 ppm. Further, there needs to be a good amount of water movement and nitrates really need to be below 10ppm. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acropt3.htm Second, You do have some soft corals. These could be releasing toxins in the water. Some sort of carbon filtration is highly recommended. Third, your lighting. You have 2 x 20K halogen (halide?) bulbs. You may want to try keeping the corals lower in the tank to start, or you may want to consider changing one of your bulbs to a lower Kelvin - 10K - 14K Finally, we cannot rule out some sort of pest or disease. Have a read here and see if anything looks like your Acropora when it died. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corldisart.html >
Thanks very much
<My Pleasure.>
Tim
<MikeV>

Acropora turning white 5/8/10 I have attached two pictures of this coral that is turning white/yellowish. I seems to be progressing quickly. I have read about what it could be, but not 100% on how to identify. Is it possible for you to look at these pictures and tell me what it is? Any help would be great. Thank you for your time! Zach Stamey <Mmm, this is almost assuredly a case of Acro eating flatworms... you can/should read more widely re these on the Net,, and should have quarantined any new/incoming materials... there has been a steady rash of these/this on aquacultured Scleractinians... Treatments have included various Anthelminthics... esp. "Fluke Tabs", four tabs to five gallons of water for dips... You can hold the coral out of the water for a few minutes, and the worms themselves will likely become more obvious/transparent... Look for and remove (with a toothbrush or such) any egg cases. At any length, I almost just deleted your query, as you have NOT complied with our requirement to limit graphics... It's taken some fourteen minutes for me to download one of your images (here in Egypt)... Bob Fenner>

re: Acropora turning white 5/8/10 Thank you for the help. Sorry about the extra picture. Zach <Welcome. Cranky Bob> Re: Acropora turning white Bob, I pulled it out and didn't see any worms or eggs. I put in a Lugol's dip and blew of with turkey baster and didn't see anything that looked like the flatworm pics online. Is there another possibility. <Actually several... from the ME meaning "many"> Maybe Lugol's dip isn't the best way to get them off. That's all I had at home from the options I found online. Any thoughts? Thanks again for your help. Zach <Oh yeah, for you to read; here: http://wetwebmedia.com/acrodisfaqs.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner> Re: Acropora turning white 5/12/10 Hey Bob, <Big Z> I finally found something on this Acropora. I used a Lugol's dip again and several very small "bugs" came floating off. I have since noticed them crawling around the bottom of the tank. The largest one may be close to 1/4", they seem to be a white/grey color, have antennas, and a lot of legs. I looked online and the closet thing I could find to what it looks like is some sort of amphipod. They are so small that I can't take a picture to send. They only seem to be eating this one Acropora. The others are fine. Could you send me a link to the site that addresses how to get rid of these things. From my reading and what I have found so far it looks like I will have to trap them. Is that correct? Does anything eat them? Thanks again for your help. The website is a nice resource. Thanks, Zach <... am surprised you can't find the files yourself... Please scroll down here: http://wetwebmedia.com/CnidIndex2.htm to Acroporids... Disease/Pests... B>

Re: Tissue Necrosis, Discoloration, and White Excretions on SPS/LPS 5/8/10 I figured I would follow up. Per your advice I removed the clove polyps entirely and changed out my carbon in my media reactor. <Good moves> This seemed to help in the short term (at least nothing was immediately getting worse). But despite my best efforts, whatever is afflicting my tank has continued to spread amongst my SPS, despite the cloves being out of the tank for about 2 weeks at this point. <These "events" often take weeks to resolve> I have noticed that the LPS that showed symptoms earlier seem to be recovering; the spread is limited to SPS. I have attached a photograph of the most recent victim. <Looks slimy... reacting to...> The Montiporas that 'caught' whatever this is have since died (With the exception of a M. setosa that is recovering). One Acropora has survived (although it is much drabber now) but several appear to be on the way out. Any further ideas? <Is not something... "catching" as in a biological disease (infectious, parasitic), but a biochemical "burn"... stabilizing, optimizing the environment is the only salvation here, along with patience, time going by. Bob Fenner>