LED Light Lenses are "Yellowing" with age... & concern re slowing rate of growth of corals
Hello Crew,
<Ralph>
I have a set of well known, high quality LED light fixtures that I have owned for about 6 years. Recently, I have noticed that the lenses through which the LED light is transmitted have "yellowed".
<Mmm; yes; does happen at times; some makes/models by some manufacturers>
The white lights in the fixtures used to be bright white but now they have a noticeable yellow color. Can this be the reason for a considerable slowing of the growth rate of my corals?
<Yes; could be a/the influence>
I have been battling growth problems primarily with my Acroporas; even my typically fast growing "Green Slimer". I am seeing the tips turn brown and even some die off. Water parameters seem to be good as they always have been:
Salinity: 1.026
Alkalinity: 3.5
Calcium: 400ish
pH: 7.95 during the nighttime and early morning, 8.15 during the daytime
<About right>
Nitrates: .75ppm
Phosphates: .06
<Mmm; am self-prompted to mention potassium shortage, similarly magnesium being out of ration as a poss. issue here. Do you use a chemical "feeder stock" for your stonies? I'd look into SeaChem's line>
The tank has been stable around these parameters for the last year and a half. Looking for a possible cause I noticed the yellowing lights and have become concerned that that may be the problem.
Any comments or suggestions are welcome.
Thanks,
Ralph
<Mmmm; and the usual perusal of the archives/FAQs on WWM on the topics you
list as concerns. Bob Fenner>
RE: LED Light Lenses are "Yellowing" with age
Hi Bob,
<R>
Can you give me a bit more information on the "feeder stock" you mentioned.
I checked the Seachem line but am unsure about which product you are referring to.
Thanks, Ralph
<Sorry re: http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/ReefPlus.html>
RE: LED Light Lenses are "Yellowing" with age
Thanks for the quick response. I will look at the items mentioned.
<Real good. Do write back re specific concerns, input. BobF>

Re: Acropora tricolor, fdg., and Zanclus fdg.      6/2/14
Hello Mr. F.
<Andrei>
I just wanted to let you know, regarding that Acropora Tricolor that since our last conversation I started feeding my corals with food specifically developed for SPS (dry zooplankton from an Italian company named Elos ) and the coral completely recovered. All the other SPS are looking much better and the polyp extension is greater than ever.
<Ah good>
So, I just wanted to point out what I have found out by myself: these animals need to be fed in order to thrive,
<Oh yes; gone over and over on WWM>
maybe the statement that they need only light in our tanks was true some time ago when the filtration
mechanisms were not so aggressive (the skimmer for example ), but now I wouldn`t even think to keep corals without feeding them. The same goes for the fish: I have a Zanclus Cornutus for well over 1.5 years now and is doing great and not touching the corals, as well as my P. Imperator but I feed 4-5 times / day with different kind of foods.
<Ahh!>
Thank you again for pointing me at the right direction.
Andrei from Romania
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Acropora Agonistes    11/26/12 Hello All, <David> I'm having fits with my sps lately.  Let me give a little history.  My tank was set up 18 months ago running an octopus skimmer and ecobak bio pellets.  Things were going well and I was beginning to see good continuous growth but alkalinity was always an effort to keep stable (I dose 2 part and keep magnesium well regulated).  Because I was concerned about alkalinity getting too high in a bio pellet system, I let my alkalinity drift down a bit and things continued to look okay. <With you so far> About three months ago it all went pear shaped.  Phosphates were getting higher (0.07ish) so I used a little liquid phosphate remover. <Lanthanum I'll take it>  Corals started keeling over the course of days.  I went with massive water changes, stopping phosphate remover, and taking the pellets out of the system (I felt like I was working too hard to keep everything in a sweet spot).  <Agreed> I tried to go with a much more traditional system with a longer track record of success.  I went with Purigen and gFO in separate reactors. Things started working again.  Growth was great for a while.  I refreshed the GFO and things were going alright.  After a few weeks, a new batch of GFO, half as much, and things start going markedly worse. <Remove the GFO> I feed what I think is heavily, with a combination of Cyclop-eeze, Mysis, oyster ova, rotifers, and decamped brine eggs.  I show no nitrates ever <All chemo- and photo-synthates need measurable NO3 and HPO4...>  and for the last two months alkalinity is stable at 177 ppm on a Hanna Checker.  I have also noticed a lot of purple coloration in corals and clams that were more diverse in color. I have attached a sample pic.  Note the shrunken polyps, the dieback, and the dark purple color on what is ideally a yellow and blue coral.  Forgive the poor picture quality. Please advise. With Many Thanks, David. <Mmm, well, you could (I might) simply overfeed what you list to produce essential nutrients (in the water) here... Else-wise, there is some experimentation one can/might do to see if you can discover and restore whatever the rate limiting, missing component is here. Bob Fenner>

Re: Acropora Agonistes    11/27/12 Bob, <David> Thank you for your kind reply.  I'm sure you hear it all the time, but the effort and assistance you give is very much appreciated. <Ahh, welcome> I took out the GFO and, this may just be my imagination, a day later I think I see improvement. <Your situation, circumstances and current observations are more the norm than unusual nowayears w/ the proliferation of "chemical filtrants"... Folks, companies "making money" from their promotion, sale really should self-assess what they're up to... My common statement: "More emphasis on biology, less on technology" would benefit all>  The coral tissue looks like it is encroaching on the algae rather than the other way around.  The only coral not showing some sign of improvement is the one I sent the picture of.  He was the worst off though, so we'll see. Is it possible to see a turnaround that quick? <Yes; think on your being deprived of something essential... like air, oxygen...>   When and how much GFO should I consider (If phosphate gets up to .1? .2?). <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/phosphatemar.htm and the linked HPO4 FAQs files above, and Nutrient Export... There are quite a few ways, means to avoid/exclude Phosphate accumulation> Thanks again for the help! David. <Welcome. BobF> Re: Acropora Agonistes   12/5/12 Bob, <David> Thank you for all the help.  I've run things without the GFO since we spoke about a week ago.  Things are not getting worse and there are hints of improvement.  The problem is my phosphate is now 0.1ppm on my Hanna checker.  It was 0 previously. <Not a problem I assure you> I'm not about to panic.  My understanding is with steady input and decreased export, this is going to happen. <What is going to happen?>  I should just keep things steady and let the creepy crawlies growing and breeding and take up the excess. <Likely so; limited by... whatever is limiting> Assuming all this is correct, my concern is that the jump was pretty quick (from 0 to .1ppm in a week).  I'm going to cut the feedings down to about half until the phosphate reduces appreciably then increase it slowly. <Ok> Is this all correct or have I wildly missed the point?  Any additional advice? Regards, David. <Have I referred you to Marco's piece here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/phosphatemar.htm and the linked files above re HPO4? Bob Fenner> Re: Acropora Agonistes   12/5/12 Bob, <Big D!> Wow, I'm going to have my writing license revoked.  Shortly thereafter, they'll have me taken out back and flogged.  All quite warranted I assure you.  The corrected passage should read: I'm not about to panic. My understanding is with steady input and decreased export, *a temporary increase in phosphate is expected or at least reasonably likely.* <<Ah yes>> My humblest apologies, David. <<No worries all the way about. BobF>>

Montipora caps losing color, nutrient, lambda    6/30/12 Hi crew!! I bought a green Montipora cap 3 months ago and a red one 2 months ago.  Although they are both growing the green one has almost completely lost its' color and the red one is paler but holding on. Here is some background on their circumstances. They are in a 55 gallon with a 30 gal refugium that has been running for 6 years. Lighting is a 4 bulb T5 with 2 AquaSun bulbs, 1 IndigoSun bulb and 1 actinic (system 4 months old). <Mmm, this is not much light... do you have access to a PAR/PUR meter? Do check the strength near where these Montiporas are placed... I'd move up to where the reading is at least 100> Daytime bulbs run for 10 hours a day.  Water parameters: Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate all 0. Phosphate tests out at 0. <Here's at least one explanation for loss of color. All chemophotosynthates need (measurable) NO3 and HPO4... the folks who sell chemical filtrants and gear are wont to explain this... Your Acroporids are starved for essential nutrients>  Calcium 400-450, alkalinity 3.5 meq, pH 8-8.2. I run Chemipure and activated carbon and do weekly 10 gallon water changes with RO/DI water mixed with Tropic Marin Reef (marinated for days). When I first got both of them I started them at the bottom of the tank and moved them (after a month) half way up the tank.  What could be the problem? Water quality, lighting (too much? not enough?)  Any direction you can point me in would be very appreciated. Thanks! Jennifer <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acrosysfaqs.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Montipora caps losing color     7/1/12 Hello Mr. Fenner! Thank you for the very quick response!! I do not have a PAR/PUR meter.  I'll check to see if my LFS has one. <Yes; and/or a local reef/marine club>   In the meantime perhaps I should move both of them higher up in the tank. How should I increase HPO4 and NO3? <Just stop using filtrants... perhaps feed a bit more>  Should I remove the Chemipure or carbon? <Yes> I've been running them to reduce allelopathy. <A good "reason"; but likely your Cnidarians are now "used to each other">  I wondered about nutrients but I feed Rod's and Cyclop-eeze so I thought they would "feed" from that. Again, thank you for your help! Jennifer <Welcome. BobF> Re: Montipora caps losing color     7/1/12 Wow!  Good to know that they might be used to each other by now.  I'll remove immediately.  Will the color come back on the existing coral or will only the new growth have color? <Maybe... one can hope. B>   Thank you so much, Mr. Fenner! Jen

Bleaching Montipora - 02/23/06 Hi and thank you for answering my ?. <<I'm happy to be a part of it all.>> I have had a frag of Red Montipora capricornis for about 2 weeks and I have noticed that it is losing its color and now is white/pinkish in color. <<Troubling indeed>> My Salinity, water temp, no nitrates, no ammonia, are fine.  My lighting is 2x250 MH with 10k Ushios and are about 12 inches from where the Monti cap is placed. <<Hmm...if the frag didn't come from the same type of light environment it may be experiencing "light shock".>> Their is very little flow where the cap is placed also. <<This too is a problem...high flow please...>> Could it possibly be that I have to much light over the Monti cap and should I place it under an overhang? <<These corals are often kept quite successfully in "high light" environments, but if it wasn't acclimated to the light, that may well have been the problem...but after two weeks I think you're better off leaving it where it is.  It will have begun to adjust by now (if it's going to recover), and moving it again means more stress.>> Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.  I could possibly send you a pic if that would help out. <<I think the best you can do at this point is increase water flow in the vicinity of the coral/the tank as a whole.  Regards, EricR>>

Acroporas turning brown Hi WWM! <Hi Jen, MacL here with you tonight.> I know you all are so busy these days, I have tried to research this on my own and can't really find a lot of info on Acroporas turning brown.  I have asked several online dealers and the LFS, but I get very conflicting information. <I can tell you right now that's because multiple things can turn the corals brown.> I have been told I didn't have enough lighting (when I had 2 X 150W HQI MH), and upgraded to 2 X 250W HQI MH, and now have been told I have too much lighting. <Did you acclimate the corals to the stronger lighting? By acclimate I mean did you give them time to grow accustomed to the stronger lighting by putting them on for less hours or perhaps higher above the tank?> I don't know how much info you need to be able to tell me why this is happening, but here goes. . . 80 gallon tank, setup three years ago.  100 lbs. of LR, 60-80 lbs. LS, Lighting: 2X 250 W HQI MH 14k, 2X 96 W PC Actinics, mounted 10" off top of tank.  Aqua C Remora Pro (upgraded skimmer 6 months ago), 4 Maxi-jet powerheads, approx 920 gph. Livestock: 1 blue tang, 1 royal Gramma, 1 lawnmower blenny, 1 six line wrasse, 1 citron goby, 3 blue Chromis, 1 cinnamon clown, 15-20 Turbo snails, 10 Nassarius snails, 20 Astrea snails, 25 various dwarf hermit crabs, 2 blue tuxedo urchins, 2 Mithrax crabs, 5-10 Cerith snails, 2 brain corals, 1 Favites, 1 Blastomussa, 1 Montipora (also turned brown), 1 Acropora, 1 yellow Porites.  The Acropora and the Montipora are both near the top of the tank, top 10".   Water Parameters:  PH 8.3 1:30pm, Temp 80, Amm 0, Trites 0, Trates 0, Phosphates 0, Alk 8.4-9.2 DKH, Calc 375, SG 1.025. I use RO/DI water for top off and water changes.  I top off with one gallon every night.  I change about 5 gallons per week.  I use Kalkwasser,  turbo calcium, and Warner Marine's two part A and B.  I also started adding this week Kent's Essential Elements (which I was told I should be adding every week).  <Your levels look great but let me ask? are you having any ph fluctuation? Also, how long after you got the corals did they turn color? How long had you had them? Do you have any idea if they are wild corals? Often wild corals turn colors but will often regain color after they adjust to the tank.  Wild Acroporas will often change as part of their adjustment. See what I mean by it could be a lot of things?> Please let me know what you think may be causing these corals to turn brown.  I have also read "high nutrients" can cause this browning. What nutrients?? <Phosphates can be a problem but generally high nutrients are what they call the "dirty tank" which is often lots of algae, plankton, etc.>  Where are they coming from?  How can I test for them?  If I was overfeeding wouldn't I see a rise in nitrates and phosphates?  I am just completely confused and my head is spinning with what everybody has been telling me, please set me straight. <No worries Jen, I think the most confusing part is  that Acroporas can change because of many things and the biggest thing is just to go down the list one thing at a time to try to isolate what did it. Don't worry we can help you.>  Thank You,  Jen Marshall