FAQs on Rift Valley Salt Mix
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Water Hardness
by Neale Monks,
Water Softness by
Neale Monks, A practical approach to
freshwater aquarium water chemistry by Neale Monks,
pH,
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pH, Alkalinity, Acidity, Nitrogen Cycling, Establishing Cycling 1, Ammonia, Nitrite,
Nitrate, Freshwater Algae Control, Algae Control, Foods, Feeding, Aquatic Nutrition, Disease,
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Per 5 US gallons (20 litres) add the following amounts of each ingredient:
- 1 teaspoon baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
- 1 tablespoon Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate)
- 1 teaspoon marine salt mix (sodium chloride + trace elements)
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Rift Valley Salt Mix - safe for Pearlscales?
/Neale 5/13/13
Hello,
I have a two-year old Pearlscale goldfish, about the size of a Macintosh
apple, that has had a number of problems, some or perhaps most due to my
initial ignorance in providing the correct care (despite my best
intentions and doting habits). I have continued to educate myself
through your site's FAQs and others to provide the best conditions
possible with my present set-up. He is currently alone in a 20-gallon
tank (started out in a 10-gallon with an Oranda friend who died after
several months) until I can afford his next upgrade, hopefully 40
gallons, and later adding one or two friends if/when he remains without
issue for an extended period . Without going into the entire history of
Eggbert's various problems, my mistakes and the corrective actions I
have taken (upgraded tank size, upgraded filtration with 10x GPH,
frequent 50% water changes, daily when problems occur, and two to three
times weekly when doing well; vegetarian-based diet, etc), I have a
question I hope is simple.
Is the recommended Rift Valley Salt Mix, which contains a small amount
of marine salt, safe for Pearlies? My Pearlscale has intermittently had
blisters that appear to be filled with clear fluid -- at times one or
two small ones, other times sudden outbreaks of multiple larger
blisters, which I've read is a common problem for this particular fancy
goldfish. One of the stronger theories for the cause of these blisters
that I have read is that Pearlscales are more sensitive to salt than
other goldfish and may have a more difficult time with osmoregulation.
Therefore I never use regular aquarium salt for him anymore should an
issue arise, as most fish forums tend to recommend this for stressed or
ill fish, among other measures. Would the marine salt be safe for him as
part of the Rift Valley recipe, or should I just use the recommended
amounts of Epsom salt and baking soda, minus the marine salt?
Thanks very much,
Mary Kay
<In a word, yes, at the concentrations recommended, Rift Valley salt
mix, whether home-brew or store-bought, will be perfectly safe with
Goldfish.
But if you want, you could leave the salt out altogether and still
receive the benefits of buffering the pH and raising the hardness.
Cheers, Neale.>
Rift Valley Salt Mix - safe for Pearlscales? /RMF
5/13/13
Hello,
<MK>
I have a two-year old Pearlscale goldfish, about the size of a Macintosh
apple, that has had a number of problems, some or perhaps most due to my
initial ignorance in providing the correct care (despite my best
intentions and doting habits).
<Ahh! Good traits for an aquarist>
I have continued to educate myself through your site's FAQs and others to
provide the best conditions possible with my present set-up. He is
currently alone in a 20-gallon tank (started out in a 10-gallon with an
Oranda friend who died after several months) until I can afford his next
upgrade, hopefully 40 gallons, and later adding one or two friends
if/when he remains without issue for an extended period . Without going
into the entire history of Eggbert's various problems, my mistakes and
the corrective actions I have taken (upgraded tank size, upgraded
filtration with 10x GPH, frequent 50% water changes, daily when problems
occur, and two to three times weekly when doing well; vegetarian-based
diet, etc), I have a question I hope is simple.
<Me too>
Is the recommended Rift Valley Salt Mix, which contains a small amount
of marine salt, safe for Pearlies?
<Yes it is>
My Pearlscale has intermittently had blisters that appear to be filled
with clear fluid -- at times one or two small ones, other times sudden
outbreaks of multiple larger blisters, which I've read is a common
problem for this particular fancy goldfish. One of the stronger theories
for the cause of these blisters that I have read is that Pearlscales are
more sensitive to salt than other goldfish and may have a more difficult
time with osmoregulation.
<A possibility, yes>
Therefore I never use regular aquarium salt for him anymore should an
issue arise, as most fish forums tend to recommend this for stressed or
ill fish, among other measures. Would the marine salt be safe for him as
part of the Rift Valley recipe, or should I just use the recommended
amounts of Epsom salt and baking soda, minus the marine salt?
<I would include the marine (synthetic sea) salt>
Thanks very much,
Mary Kay
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>
slight tweak 5/15/12
> Hello Bob,
> I added the Rift Valley salt mix recipe to the top of the FAQ page,
into the area where you usually put a photo. I thought that would make
this page easier to use.
>
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RiftVlySaltMixF.htm
> Cheers, Neale
<A very good change. Thank you. B>
RODI water and salt mixes
1/18/12
Hello Crew, Neale to be specific.
<Greetings.>
This is Eric and I have a question about using salt mixes in
conjunction with RODI water for use in freshwater aquariums. I am going
to start using RODI water for my freshwater tanks due to the fact that
my tap water has nitrates in it.
<Not necessarily a killer. Cichlids, especially Tanganyikans and
Dwarf Cichlids need less than 20 mg/l, but barbs, tetras, and so on
will be fine up to 50 mg/l, and the hardier species like Danios and
Ricefish can handle up to 100 mg/l! Fast-growing plants can remove
nitrate at an astonishing rate, so lightly-stocked aquaria with
fast-growing plants (e.g., Indian Fern) can provide remarkably good
water quality.>
I am using this salt mix recipe for making the water. Per 5 US Gallons,
one half level teaspoons Baking Soda, one half level tablespoon Epsom
Salt, and one half level teaspoon Marine Salt. I added the mix to a 5
Gallon bucket with RODI water, aerated and circulated it for 2 hours
then tested the water for pH, KH, and GH. These were my results - pH
7.6, GH 160 mg/l, KH 70 mg/l. Any Ideas what I can do to get these
parameters to were I need them for my tanks?
<Depends what you want to keep. But good middle-of-the-road values
would be these: general hardness 100-150 mg/l; carbonate hardness
50-100 mg/l; and a pH between 7 and 7.5. Such water would suit all but
the most sensitive South American and Southeast Asian fish, and would
also be acceptable for this fish that dislike soft water, such as
Platies and Guppies. Your water isn't very far off this range, so
you might simply mix 3 parts tap water with 1 part RO water. That'd
be economical and should be effective. You might go to 2 parts tap to 1
part RO if you wanted softer water. Obviously less adaptable fish, such
as Mollies (which need very alkaline water) or Common Ram Cichlids
(which need very acidic water) will need conditions outside this range.
Review, and act accordingly.>
These are what I have in my tanks, one 75 gallon tank with a Flowerhorn
Cichlid, one 75 gallon tank with three red tail
tinfoil barbs, two Pictus catfish and one common Pleco, and one 46
gallon tank with 3 rose barbs, three blue gouramis, three kissing
gouramis, one common Pleco and one Asian sucker. Thank You for all the
wonderful help that I have received from this great website!!
Eric
<Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: RODI water and salt mixes, for FW use
1/18/12
Well i am looking at using only RODI water for these aquariums no tap
water, so with the values that I gave you in the previous e-mail what
do you think I need to add to, or subtract from the salt mix to get
within the right values from the different fish and aquariums
that I listed in the previous email?
<A "teaspoon" isn't a scientific unit, so we can't
predict how much general hardness or carbonate hardness you'd get
from adding 3 teaspoons of Epsom salt or one teaspoon of sodium
bicarbonate. Instead, you have to experiment. Add the salt mix to a
bucket of water, stir, test, and write down the values. If it isn't
right, repeat, with more or less of each of the three salt mix
ingredients, understanding that Epsom salt changes general hardness,
sodium bicarbonate carbonate hardness, and marine salt mix a little bit
of both.>
Here is a recap of what I have in my aquariums
75 gallon tank with a Flowerhorn Cichlid and a Common Plecostomus 75
gallon tank with three Red Tail Tinfoil Barbs, two Pictus Catfish and
one Common Plecostomus
46 gallon tank with three Rose Barbs, three Blue Gouramis, three
Kissing Gouramis, one Common Plecostomus and one Asian Sucker.
Thank You again
Eric
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: RODI water and salt mixes 1/18/12
Thank You so much Neale, I truly appreciate all the help and insight I
have received from you and Wet Web Media.
<Happy to help. Good luck, Neale.>
Salt Treated Tank 5/6/11
Good Morning Crew,
<Paul>
I am happy to say this is the first time I have had to write in
regarding poor fish keeping on my part. I recently set up a new 55 gal
tank in my basement and much to my surprise during the spring thaw we
had all sorts of water problems coming up through the floor and walls
in my basement.
<No fun for sure>
During my panic to try to save the rest of my tank stands I neglected
the new tank because it was not in dangers way, which is no excuse but
it happens. After the danger was over and started the clean up I
realized that the heater and filter had not been plugged in for a
couple days and the 2 out of the 3 Aulonocara Lwanda
that are in there had what looked like a white fuzz on them. So I did a
40% water change and added some aquarium salt (1 tablespoon per 10
gallons) and turned the heat up to 80 degrees.
Left it run for 3 days and did another 40% water change and treated
with salt again. The fungus its gone but one of them has a bad cloudy
spot on his eye which I doubt will ever go way but I am hopeful.
<Will likely go away in a few weeks time>
This weekend I will be doing my regular maintenance without adding the
salt.
<Mmm, rather than "Aquarium Salt", see Neale's formula
here for these Great African Lakes fish:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RiftVlySaltMixF.htm
I am getting a breeding set of 3 4"-5" Mpimbwe Frontosa
<Need more room than this...>
pretty soon and I would like to put them in this tank. How soon should
I wait before I can move these fish around?
<A few weeks>
And when/if I do move them should I do almost a complete water change
or will the salt have no lasting effects in the tank?
<I'd change the "saltiness" out over time... no more
than 50% changes in a week>
Paul
<Bob Fenner>
Re: Salt Treated Tank 5/6/11
Bob,
<Pablo>
Thanks for the fast reply! I should of looked into what the salt was
going to do to the water but I needed to treat these fish with
something other then harsh chemicals.
<Mmm, well, actually, combinations of metals and non-metals (salts)
can be very harsh indeed>
Thank you for pointing that out to me. I know that the Frontosas should
be in a bigger tank but I have 4 Synodontis multipunctatus in my 125
gal that from what I have read can interrupt cichlid breeding and I
have high hopes to get them to spawn.
<Perhaps another system? You don't need that sofa! Cut that bed
in half length-wise! Shower in the sink and fill up the tub! Cheers,
BobF>
Re: Salt Treated Tank, African Cichlid Repro./Breeding
5/6/11
Bob,
<Paolo>
Believe it or not I have had this discussion with my wife and she feels
that the tub should be off limits. No sense of imagination I say.
<Heeee!>
Should of seen the look on her face when I first said that a 55 gal was
too small. I might have to put my Aulonocaras in the 55 with the
Synodontis.
<A better use of space; yes>
They take to<o> long to grow
<Lots (daily) water changes and frequent (several times daily) small
feedings...>
and color from fry and I'm running out of floor space for grow-out
tanks.
On a different note I have a 72 gal bow front tank that currently holds
12 Tropheus Ndole Bay that I am trying to get to breed, so far they
haven't spawned yet (not for lack of trying on the males part). Is
it safe to let these release them on their own in the tank?
<I would not... IF you're desire is to optimize/maximize
"output" you'll need a separate grow out system>
There is to much rock work in there to try and catch the holding
females for me to even think about trying as well as the stress it
causes on the whole system.
<Mmm, well...>
I also have a 90 gal tank that holds 12 juvenile Tropheus Ikolas, 12
Eretmodus cyanostictus and 4 Cyprichromis Leptosoma with a gravel
substrate. I would dearly like the Eretmodus to spawn but I am afraid
that there is <number> to <again> many other fish<es>
in the tank as well as the wrong kind of substrate (sand I read is
preferred). What do you think the odds of successfully spawning and the
survival rate of the fry would be?
<With a bit in the way of provided habitat: http://www.cichlidae.com/article.php?id=222
easily enough>
Thank you
Paul
<Velkommen, B>
Requesting small freshwater aquarium stocking advice
3/26/09
Hi Neale.
<Hello Nick,>
Super duper quick question for you. Is this considered Rift Valley
salt:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3974+4198&pcatid=4198
<Yes.>
There were a couple Cichlid salts and I just wanted to make sure I got
the right one in reference to our below conversation.
<If "rolling your own" doesn't appeal, then any of
these commercial cichlid salts should stabilize pH by raising carbonate
hardness (~ alkalinity). Pick whichever is economical, and start by
using a much lower dose than required for Malawian cichlids; I'd
suggest 25-33% dosages to begin with.>
Thanks so much and see, sometimes when I say I'll be quick, I
really am (unfortunately that's pretty rare though!). Thanks a
ton!-Nick
<Cheers, Neale.>
A few Kribensis questions 4/22/08 Good afternoon. My
son's Kribs have become parents, and the fry have been swimming
freely now for about a week. The parents and fry are in a well planted
14 gallon tank by themselves and the parents seem to be doing a great
job herding them around and leading them to food (and not eating them).
<Very good! Do check the pH though: if you have a pH above 7,
you'll get mostly males; if the pH is below 7, mostly females.
Tropical fish shops -- for obvious reasons -- only want equal numbers
of males and females, so establish the pH and then decide whether
raising the fry is worth it. Remember, surplus fry in the community
tank will eventually get attacked by the parents as they prepare to
breed again, and that's when things become chaotic (and
bloody).> The stand on which the 14 gal aquarium is on is rather
large, and he was recently given a 30 long (with lighting, filter,
heater!) that he would like to eventually set there, but I was not sure
what the reaction would be of the Krib parents if they partially
drained their tank to move it with the Kribs in it to a smaller
surface, or netted them all to a temporary container/tank then moved
the tank and put them back if the fry might be endangered by the
parents. <Parents will likely eat the eggs/fry, and then spawn a
couple of weeks later.> If they do need to wait, what is the safest
time/age of the fry to move the tank. The 30 might be their eventual
home after it has been properly cycled in a month or two, which is also
why they would like to be able to move it sooner than later to allow
time for that. <You can't move parents and fry, and then expect
the "bond" between them to be stable. Rather, you wait until
one batch of fry is mature enough to rear yourself (which you could do
right now, but is easier after 2-3 weeks) and then remove all the fry.
Then move the parents, and let them start over.> Also, I have a tank
with Kribs of my own and was wondering about salts. <Kribs do not
need salt. What they ideally want is soft to moderately hard water at
pH 7. Anything other than that is less than ideal, and causes problems
with sex ratio in the brood.> I noticed that marine salt and cichlid
salt has a lot of other trace minerals that a lot that plants actually
like quite a bit compared to aquarium salt which is just sodium
chloride, namely potassium, calcium and magnesium. <No relation
here: the minerals in marine salt aren't the ones plants use. So
one doesn't remove the need for another. The *elements* like
potassium may be the same, but the minerals (*compounds*) are
completely different. Similar to the fact we need oxygen to breathe,
but can't "breathe" carbon dioxide, despite the fact that
gas contains oxygen.> Are any of these salts safe using or
beneficial in a community Krib tank (with barbs, glassfish) that also
has an S.A.E. and Otos. <Glassfish are quite happy with salt, but
none of your other fish want/tolerate salt.> If not, and hopefully
not a dumb question, what are the non-salt tolerant fish non tolerant
of specifically that are in these different types of salts? Sodium in
any form? <It's complicated, and to do with pH, carbonate
hardness, general hardness, and salinity -- all different ways of
describing different aspects of the mineral composition of water. Every
environment is different, and fish evolved to work in one set of
conditions may not work in another. The best thing with community fish
is to aim for soft to moderate hard, zero salinity, neutral pH water.
Apart from livebearers, most community fish will be very happy with
that. Cheers, Neale.>
Rift lake salts, GH & KH 10/3/07 Hi WWM crew,
I used to have a community setup and used KH salts to buffer the system
and maintain a neutral pH. I now have a community tank with a number of
cichlids (calvus, dickfeldi, Kribensis) so I am using rift lake salts.
I was advised to use only the rift lake salts and not the KH salts as
well. I've just had a major shift in pH (to acid) and the cichlids
are all sick as a result. My question is: should I be maintaining the
KH buffer salts as well as the rift salts or should the rift salts have
the same effect? Thanks in advance!! Lachlan <Rift Valley cichlid
salts should maintain KH and pH all by themselves. Essentially, Rift
Valley salts are packaged salts for raising the GH, KH, and pH of
regular water so that it matches that found in either Lake Malawi or
Tanganyika. That said, if you're keeping Rift Valley cichlids, you
should also have some built-in carbonate hardness reserve in the
aquarium. I would strongly recommend the use of either crushed coral
inside a canister filter or an undergravel filter built with a coral
sand/crushed coral mix. Sticking lumps of Tufa rock in the tank
won't work, because for the calcium carbonate to have any value as
a buffer, water must be flowing past a vast surface area of the stuff.
If you have a pH crash below 7.0, then clearly you weren't adding
enough Rift Valley salt given the ambient softness of your local water
supply and/or the stocking level of your aquarium and/or the use of
acidifying materials in the tank such as bogwood. Cheers, Neale>
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