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Brrrrrrr!
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Clean-up-crew Options. Temperate, 40 gal.
3/9/20
Hello WetWebMedia Crew! I have several questions regarding my temperate
marine planted aquarium.
Tank statistics:
40 gallon breeder
Has operated: Roughly 5 months
Tank temperature: Roughly 68 degrees Fahrenheit
Water changes: I am attempting once weekly
Water parameters:
PH: 8
Salinity: 1.025-1.026
Filtration and Circulation:
AquaClear 50 with filter floss and no carbon (running full time)
Macro Aqua M-50 Protein skimmer (running for several hours about every 3
weeks)
Two Jebao RW-4 wavemakers
Lighting: Finnex Planted Plus 24/7 CC (9 hours of high intensity light,
9 hours of no light, and 3 hours of low intensity light in between the
high and no light cycles)
Livestock: Macroalgae (the most simplistic being Sea lettuce (Ulva)) and
rock hitchhikers (I plan on adding other temperate organisms including
Daggerblade grass shrimp (Palaemonetes pugio) aka. Feeder shrimp, a
Catalina goby (Lythrypnus dalli), and a Kamohara blenny (Meiacanthus
kamoharai) to name a few)
Question 1: Will a Margarita snail (Margarites pupillus) eat green film
algae?
<Yes; most all types of algae are consumed by Margarite Snails>
I already know these snails eat hair algae and diatoms but I am unsure
when it comes to this variety.
<Mmm; well, not likely BGA/Blue Greens... these aren't really algae; and
are unpalatable to many/most organisms>
Question 1.5: If the Margarita snail does not eat green film algae, what
other options do I have (when I comes to controlling this algae) that
will not consume macroalgae like Ulva (or consume it at a slow enough
rate where it can continue to grow)?
<I would just rely on careful non-introduction of nutrients, chemical
(and physical) filtration, and regular maintenance; rather than
biological cleaners>
Question 2: What are some good temperate water sand sifters?
I have seen the Bruised nassa (Phrontis or Nassarius vibex) as a
potential candidate (as its range extends into temperate water), yet I
am interested if you might know about any other (Sand dollars sound
fascinating and I have heard that they can be successfully kept with
targeted feedings).
<Many (local) organisms are worth experimenting... >
Question 3: Will a Kamohara blenny eat macroalgae like Ulva and if so,
will the blenny consume it at a slow enough rate where the algae can
continue to grow?
<Mmm; no; Meiacanthus are mainly zooplanktivorous>
Thanks in advance!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Coldwater Marine Tank Questions
8/7/18
I am a hobbyist in Florida who for a fairly long time maintained a 10
gallon coldwater marine tank with cnidarians, snails and fish primarily
from the Pacific coasts of California through Washington.
<You are to be congratulated. Keeping such small systems stable...
successfully is not easy>
Unfortunately,
the last time a hurricane came through about a year ago I was without
power for a week and lost everything except my Elegant Blenny
(*Omobranchus elegans)* and a couple of Plumose Anemones (*Metridium
senile). *So for most of the year I've just kept this little sad tank
going as without Stu
Wobbe and his Coldwater Marine company there are very few options for a
hobbyist to restock. As an aside, if you know any way for a hobbyist to
obtain the strawberry/jewel anemones *Corynactis viridis* or *Corynactis
californica* I would appreciate the insight as Matsu Collections is the
only provider I'm aware of and he requires a California Scientific
Collecting Permit which I do not have.
<I'd have your dealer/s contact Quality Marine and Sea Dwelling
Creatures in LA. Otherwise you might write folks in the public aquarium
fields in CA re: Fernando Nosratpour at SIO/Birch, Richard Ross at the
Steinhart/CAS... They may know folks who do such work>
So for the most part being a Floridian and a hobbyist I only have access
to what little coldwater/temperate livestock are purposefully mislabeled
as tropical reef livestock. So I'm currently planning on setting up a
Fluval M60 (which has an 18 gallon display with 6 gallon built in sump
for 24
gallons total) as something vaguely resembling a Catalina or Blue-Banded
Goby *(Lythrypnus dalli)* biotope. I already have vertical rockwork in
place with dozens of little caves for the gobies. My main question is,
in a setup I've described how many gobies should I purchase?
<One, perhaps two. They are territorial to degrees>
Other than taking up valuable oxygen, the elegant blenny is not a
concern. I've had him in a much smaller tank (standard 10 gallon) with
little Sculpins and Catalina gobies before without incident as he rarely
leaves the seemingly impossibly small shell he came with and when he
does come out it is only
to go a couple of inches to grab some food. The information online
mostly conflicts with how they are displayed in public aquariums and how
they live in the wild. I've even seen repeated suggestions that only one
tiny barely an inch long fish needs an entire 30 gallon tank devoted
solely to him.
Meanwhile in public aquaria, I've seen dozens of Catalina gobies side by
side in a tank that size and in the wild they are seldom if ever alone
with ten or more huddling around the same sea urchin.
<Mmm; I collected this species; many moons ago (the sixties)
commercially at times; they can be kept very crowded or much less; akin
to many lacustrine African Cichlids>
I assume what is going on is something similar to the typical African
cichlid situation where one is
fine, two or three will kill each other and a dozen will be fine as they
take turns squabbling without having the time and energy to devote to
murdering their peers.
<Oh! Yes>
So in my setup (18 gallon display with extra 6 gallons in the sump) with
a vertical rock face with dozens of little caves, how many Catalina
gobies should I get?
<For me; one or two>
And one final question. There are still places (like Matsu Collections)
where I could get coldwater macroalgaes but they are typically quite
expensive with similarly expensive shipping. Are there any typical
"tropical reef" macroalgaes that will do well in a coldwater setting (I
keep mine around 59 degrees but I would warm it up somewhat if it makes
a major difference)?
<Some; yes. Codium, a few popular Gracilaria; most Reds actually>
Thank you very much,
Warren P.
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Coldwater box fish with flukes
3/31/16
I have an Ornate Boxfish that came to me last September in poor shape. He
had a very cloudy eye and what looked like a lump on one fin.
He is still in qt almost 8 months later although he now shares qt with a
few starfish, some snails and some anemones.
His tank is 75 gallons, kept at 61 degrees and he is well fed and cleaned.
The cloudy eye cleared up within a month, but the lump stayed. After 4
months, the lump was gone, but small spots showed up on all his fins.
These turned into the exact same kind of lump as the original blemish on
his pectoral fin, except they were all over all his fins. We treated with
Melafix,
<No!!! An at times toxic scam>
Prazi, formalin (twice), neoplex, Ruby reef
<.... see WWM Re>
Hydroplex and vitamins. We even did a freshwater dip on the back half of
him, while keeping salt water running over his gills and mouth.
One day, we did a manual inspection on these lumps and I tried to remove
one. It came off with just a bit of effort, and upon inspection under a
microscope, we found it had a leach type mouth and was actively looking for
its host. We removed 15 in total from the fish.
We treated the wounds with polysporin and they appear to be healing. We
also ran a double dose of Prazi after we removed the parasites. However it
is a month later and we notice there are some very fine white dots and a
couple of these dots appear to be growing.
<See (as in actually READ on WWM re other Anthelminthics.... coldwater
settings... don't work as well>
How do we break the cycle and get rid of these pests?
<Reading... don't have the time, desire to re-key>
I would like to get the boy into his permanent home eventually and don't
want to have him continue to suffer with parasites.
Here is an image of the flukes after we removed them. They were about 10mm
diameter, and looked like poplar seeds. They were flat, round and slightly
raised in the middle. They appeared to have a small 'tail', no eyes, and a
round sucker mouth on the underside. I froze them, in case someone could
give me a better ID.
Cheryl
<Neat! Write back later after reading, trying other Vermifuges. READ before
trying misc. "medicines" that are scams. Bob Fenner>
|
Re: Coldwater box fish with flukes
4/2/16
I appreciate your comments on Melafix, and will keep it in mind for future
use.
<Ah good... if only there were statutes for selling such products as there
are for human remedies....>
As we had started out 8 months ago dealing with 2 issues on this fish, we
were looking for a solution to treat his eye that was not a sledge hammer.
It is quite possible that the Melafix had no impact at all on anything and
that it was just good qt protocol that helped the eye clear up. So no more
Melafix for us!
<Good... can interrupt nitrification; and who knows what other detrimental
effects?>
Based on additional readings as you suggested it appears the parasite is a
capsalid monogenean Trematode, except ours are huge compared to sizes I have
found in reference material on line (ours measure 10mm easily).
<Yes; can occur this large in cooler water species>
I cannot find any references to how well a coldwater Boxfish will handle
freshwater dips, or hyposalinity,
<Are fine w/ both>
so am opting instead for prolonged treatment in Praziquantel over the next
couple of months, based on a starting program of 2.5mg/l and increasing over
10 days to 10mg/l and holding for 4 days. Will repeat 3 times. Does
this dosage get too aggressive?
<Mmm; no>
We did not eliminate the parasites at 5mg/l when we did Prazi last time.
<As you prev. stated; yes>
We can also change qt tanks between treatments and disinfect the tank with
Virkon to eliminate any chance of detached eggs or free-swimming juveniles
from surviving. Is this overkill?
<Likely so>
When we took Prazi to 5mg/l for a week during the last treatment program, we
saw no change in the infection, and did see that the Boxfish quit eating. My
concern with higher dosages is finding the balance between killing the
parasites and not killing the fish.
<Understood>
I cannot find any information on suppression of effectiveness of Prazi at
lower temperatures, but will call Hikari today.
<Ah; good>
If the Prazi does not work, then it appears we will have to try formalin
again, although the last time we did formalin (both times), it had
zero visible impact on the adult parasites.
<Assuredly, formalin WILL kill all external parasites... given dosage,
exposure time>
Over the last 8 months I have had the advice of the marine biologist at our
zoo and a fish vet, both of whom suggested using formalin. However
have also read that formalin can be hard on fish.
<It is a biocide (kills all life... crosslinking peptides....)>
It may be that we have to do a higher concentration bath and then move the
fish to a clean qt tank, but unless the parasites detach during the bath
(and as adults they are clearly visible) they just come with the fish. Or
we manually remove the adults and focus on killing the juveniles with
formalin.
<Okay>
If you think the ID on this parasite is wrong, please let me know. We cannot
see any in the gills or in his mouth, but this does not eliminate the
possibility that they are there or even internal. He does eat well, but has
also lived with this infection for over 8 months.
<Monogenetic Trematodes are VERY common on fishes. VERY>
I have asked the seller if he has ever dealt with this parasite, and he has
not. He did however notice what he thought was just a fin ray growth (which
was the parasite) before the fish was shipped to me.
Thanks for your comments and help.
Cheryl
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
|
Help with an anemone that will not open. Cold, small system;
chem. allelopathy
10/29/14
I hope everything is well.
<Yes; thank you>
I have a small ten gallon coldwater marine tank which I
currently keep "only" at 61 degrees as any lower and it
starts to have condensation problems on the exterior.
<Ah yes; some aquariums for this use have a double wall, the space
between viewing panels with a bit of drying agent>
My finny friends are an elegant blenny (Omobranchus elegans) and a
Catalina goby (Lythrypnus dalli). In the tank with them are an
unspecified hermit crab, some red macroalgae, some olive and black
turban snails and a number of anemones and Corallimorphs. I have
an orange beadlet anemone (Actinia equina), some white and orange
plumose (Metridium spp), some aggregating anemones (Anthopleura
elegantissima)
<Am familiar with these Actinarians... studied them in college and dived
in their range many times off California>
and probably 50-100 of both the typical pink "strawberry
anemones" (Corynactis californica) and some bright yellow with purple
tip "jewel anemones" (Corynactis haddoni).
<Mmm; all this can't live together comfortably in ten gallons>
The problem is with none of the above I was simply giving a stock list
in case you think something might be a culprit. My problem is
with a previously large and beautiful "true strawberry" anemone (Actinia
fragacea).
<Oh?>
I've had this setup for about a year possibly longer and everything is
growing well (although I feed the strawberry and jewel "anemones" some
little pellets about 3x a week and I haven't noticed a lot of expansion
of their colonies but neither are they dying. Some rogue polyps do
wander far from the colonies but the colonies' numbers seem to be
stable, so any tips here would be helpful). However, my true
strawberry anemone has stopped opening about 2.5 to 3 weeks
ago. It is mindboggling because it was a piggy always open and demanding
food for a solid year and was a good eater of silversides. It was full
grown when I bought it and I didn't want more than one "show" true
anemone of its color so I only fed it about half a silverside every week
to maybe twice a week some weeks. It stayed the same size, nice and full
always demanding more food for about a year.
Now it stays sunken in and unopened. It even appears to have shrunk a
bit from starvation but it could be just my imagination. It is not
splitting in two to my knowledge, just shrunk down into a tight ball of
about a
Ping-Pong size. I can't see any parasites, "brown jelly" or anything
else that seems to show it's being harmed. It just simply refuses to
come out.
I've tried blowing water with coral food where the opening should be to
tempt it out and it just refuses.
Any suggestions?
<The best: move it or all to a much larger volume... Perhaps using a bit
of GACarbon in your filter flow path will relieve the likely allelopathy
here.
Do have a read:
http://wetwebmedia.com/CorlCompArt.htm
and as much of the linked files at top that it takes for you to
understand.
Bob Fenner>
Are there any commonly available "tropical" marine fish that
actually prefer temperate 62 degree F water?
12/3/13
<Mmm; yes... Catalina gobies (Lythrypnus), Blue-spotted Jawfish...>
I live in Florida and have a nice little ten gallon planted freshwater
tank and four tropical reef tanks ranging from a 6 gallon Fluval Edge
with soft corals of various types (although my pulsing Xenia is starting
to run away in that tank....Grrr)
<Trim it back and vac regularly>
and a yasha goby with its pet/worker slave shrimp to a 30 gallon Biocube
with a variety of sps and Lps hard corals and an assortment of
aggressive fish that were carefully introduced and have been doing
"swimmingly" for a couple of years (a neon Dottyback, a yellowtail
damsel and a falco Hawkfish all of which have their own territories and
there are no squabbles (damsel high, hawk middle and dotty skulking
along the ground and in various caves I've set up) even during feeding.
So.....my question has nothing to do with the above humblebrag (which is
really just to show I have some at least limited experience in your
world). However, since then we have bought a 20 gallon coldwater
marine setup as my wife and I have spent a fair amount of time on the
Left Coast recently despite living in Florida and have seen how in the
right hands a coldwater tank can be just as beautiful (or at least
almost) as a typical tropical reef tank.
<Oh yes>
In place of corals, we have some stunning quickly growing colonies of
jewel "anemones" in the Corynactis genus (a variety that is highlighter
yellow with red tentacle tips, one that is a bright neon green with pink
tips and the more common "strawberry" variety that are pink with purple
tips) and an assortment of true anemones (plumose anemones or Metridium
genus in white, orange and a pretty rare lime green variety; a couple of
the beautiful in small doses but very common aggregating anemones
Anthopleura elegantissima; two small green moonglow or burrowing
anemones Anthopleura artemisia; a burnt orange beadlet anemone Actinia
equina; and a "true" strawberry
anemone Actinia fragacea. The tank looks
great although it's a little sparse as it will probably be 6 months to a
year or more before the Corynactis colonies grow in sufficiently to
cover the rockwork.
In addition to the true anemones and "anemones", we've got a basic
assortment of coldwater cleaner snails including the black turban snails
Tegula funebralis that are frequently seen in Florida LFS as reef
cleaners; purple olive snails Olivella biplicata;
<Just picked up a nice shell of which at Volleyball last wknd...
imported sand here in San Diego... beach to bay>
and periwinkles Littorina littorea. Other members of the cleanup
crew is a fat and healthy eccentric sand dollar/biscuit urchin
Dendraster excentricus and five micro hermit crabs supposedly in the
Pagarus genus (although one is getting much bigger than the others so
I'm keeping my eye on him in case he turns out to be too big and
aggressive). At the moment for our "display" active critters we
have a Catalina Goby Lythrypnus dalli;
<Oh!>
a fluffy sculpin Oligocottus snyderii; a stout shrimp Heptacarpus
brevirostris and a porcelain crab Petrolisthes eriomeris.
So far everything is doing well and is fat and healthy except the
plumose which refuses to come out in the daylight and a small spot prawn
and previous Catalina Goby that was living in the tank with the other
aforementioned fish. The other Catalina goby and small spot prawn
were fat, eating well and both completely disappeared with no signs of
illness, distress or aggression from other creatures. I assume
they both dove head first into one of the true anemones despite the
retailers assurance they "live with anemones and would never get
caught".
<Wrong>
My dilemma and the reason for the extensive write up is that I would
like to get more activity in the tank and miss the "free swimming" fish
I have in most other tanks. The only true coldwater fish small
enough for my tank are all bottom dwelling Sculpins and gobies or else
incredibly rare in the trade micro filefish and small lump suckers that
go for hundreds of dollars per fish. However, as I live in Florida
I can't keep the "coldwater" tank at 50-55 like they do at public
aquariums as the condensation becomes too much in an ordinary Florida
home. So I keep it at a balmy for them 62 degrees and it hasn't
seemed to noticeably affect anything (unless that's the reason for my
plumose's shyness).
Can you think of any small "tropical" fish that would be happy in 62
degrees AND not be stupid enough to dive head first in the nems?
<Mmm, well; I wouldn't add anything more to this small volume... IF you
lived locally, I might buy a fishing license, do a bit of tidepool
collecting... some small (young) Surfperches, perhaps a Girella... even
a tiny Hypsypops for a while would be fab. Bob Fenner>
Re: Are there any commonly available "tropical" marine fish that
actually prefer temperate 62 degree F water?
12/3/13
Thank you for the response. That's unfortunate as I would like
something in the top and middle portions of the tank free-swimming.
<Ah yes; many possibilities. Do you have a copy of Miller and Lea,
bulletin 157? Any of Sam Hinton et al.s works re the W. coast? BobF>
Re: Are there any commonly available "tropical" marine fish that
actually prefer temperate 62 degree F water?
12/3/13
No but I will see if I can track some down and review. Thank you.
<Ahh, I look forward to our future communications. B>
Coldwater marine systems (UK)
1/26/11
There's an excellent site on UK / Atlantic species, here:
> http://www.glaucus.org.uk/wetthumb.htm
> Including this survey of the ten most commonly kept species.
> http://www.glaucus.org.uk/PF2.htm
> I'd agree with much of what's written there for
experience. Some will chime with the observations of marine aquarists.
For example, Asterina gibbosa does just as well in coldwater tanks as
those little Asterina species in reef tanks. Also, the Beadlet anemone
is the one now widely sold on eBay and elsewhere as the "brackish
water" anemone and suchlike, a testament to just how hardy this
bright red anemone species happens to be.
> If I could encourage you to get people thinking about latitudinal
distribution though, that makes a huge difference. If people
concentrate on southerly species at the northern limits of their range
-- often things like wrasses and gobies -- they'll find these adapt
extremely well to room temperature. It's the polar species at the
southerly limits of their distributions that often adapt most poorly.
Chillers are fine, but chilling more than 2-3 degrees seems to produce
such condensation on the glass the results aren't worthwhile, in my
opinion.
> Cheers, Neale
> > <Thank you for this... will use this in an upcoming pc.
for AFM/FAMA on coldwater marine systems>
Ah, the article is to be on W. coast, E. Pacific species, systems; but
will gladly post this to WWM. Cheers, B
Strange Question (not really)'¦Cold Water Animals
in Tropical Systems -- 07/01/09
I have a 240lt marine reef tank and have seen various comments on the
forum on how other hobbyist bring rock, Caulerpa etc back from their
neighbouring shores to fill their tank.
<<Indeed'¦ Those fortunate enough to live in
'Tropical' climes'¦and where local laws allow such
collection>>
Now here's the puzzler for me. All these live in warm tropical
climates which is suitable to the hobby.
<<Ah yes'¦>>
However I live in the U.K. (Cold water - certainly too cold for my big
toe let alone a tank).
<<Mmm'¦ I do understand. I lived in East Anglia for 3
½ years and remember having to wear a coat while
surf-fishing off the shingle in Felixstowe'¦in JULY! And even
though the occasional Triggerfish or Lionfish shows up around
Land's End in the summertime, the local marine life around all the
UK is not suitable for a 'Tropical' display>>
Is it possible to acclimatise rocks, weed etc for a marine tank??
<<Only if you are going to set up a tank where you can maintain
the water temperature at that from which you collect your specimens.
Your local marine life can NOT be acclimated to a Tropical marine
system>>
It would certainly help to know what is possible to culture from such
cold shores.
<<Many things'¦but only if kept in a 'cold'
system. Even should you find something that 'seems' to do okay
in a tropical system, you can be sure that its lifespan will be
severely shortened. Cold/temperate water species have no business in
tropical systems>>
Many thanks,
Simone
<<Happy to share'¦ Cheers mate, EricR>>
Eel from Monterey Bay -- 03/31/09
Thank you for your time and response. Sadly the porcupine puffer
didn't make it.
<Sorry for your loss.>
I do however have another question that hopefully you can help me with.
My brother brought home an eel from the ocean (Monterey Bay) and he is
just a little guy, about 3 inches.
<Two big mistakes: Taking home an animal you don't know and
putting it into an environment that does not resemble its
habitat.>
I don't know what kind of eel he is.
<Send clear pictures.>
I tried to look him up but he pretty much looks like all of the eels I
have seen on the internet. I was told at the LFS that he wouldn't
make it because he was a cold water eel beings as he came from Monterey
Bay.
<Won't do well in the long run.>
But I didn't want to let him just die so I figured I would just
give it a try. He has been in there for 4 days now and seems to be
doing very well. We are trying to feed him thawed octopus and he
doesn't seem to want to eat.
<Possibly you'll have to start with live food like small
shrimps.>
Do you have any tips or anything that I can try to keep this guy
alive?
<Sure: Find an adequate, chilled home or set up another tank in a
cold place. Since the eel already is in your tank I cannot recommend
putting it back into the sea.>
I can't do a chiller because its a tropical tank but he seems to be
doing ok so far.
<'So far' being the key words here. If this is a
sub-tropical to temperate water eel it won't do well in a tropical
tank, because its metabolism is not designed to run perfectly at higher
temperatures.>
But it would be really awesome to have this eel for a long time as it
would make a cool story about how we got him. I can send a pic if you
would like if it would help to know the type of eel.
<Yes, much of what could be given as advice depends on the species
or even the group we are talking about.>
I've always wanted an eel and this one is really cool, because he
seems to change color and stuff. He gets along with the 2 damsels and
clown fish. I just want him to eat something. I just don't know
anything about eels so any help would greatly be appreciated. Thank you
for your time.
<Let's start with some clear pictures, an ID and possibly
finding a cooler home for the eel. Cheers, Marco.>
Re: Native marine fish; selection, maintenance
2/9/08 Thanks, that's pretty helpful. You said that
Beadlet anemones are a good choice. <Yes, among the hardiest
organisms on the planet. I've seen them being sold as
brackish water anemones for tropical aquaria!> Well, the
biggest rocks I found were smaller than my fist. Also, there
weren't any tide pools. Do they even form on sand beaches?
<No; sandy beaches are very distinctive in terms of fauna.
Most organisms either burrow into the sand (e.g., clams) or move
in and out with the tide (e.g., flatfish). There aren't many
things that walk about or sit on the sand because they'd be
exposed to predators. So you need to find, at the least, groynes
and harbour pilings and the like, and explore them for suitable
organisms.> As to the kelp fish, I'm almost positive It
wasn't one, as they are a pacific species, however, it looked
almost identical in body form so that's what I called it.
<Oh. Well, I'm going to assume it's some sort of
Labridae or Sparidae. There are really a whole bunch of small
perciform fish that can be easily mistaken for one another.>
How do you find the fish in the ocean? I mean, with the waves and
all I couldn't see a thing. <That's why collecting
from tide pools is easier. You have to be a little creative.
Marinas and harbours can be good, and I've caught, for
example, pufferfish and halfbeaks using nothing more complex than
a net and a careful wander about an oyster bed on the mouth of a
marina at Stuart, FL. You need to "think fish" too.
Fish and inverts aren't everywhere: they prefer shade and
shelter, and good clean water as well. So choose the places
you're explore carefully, and take time to (carefully) lift
over seaweed and stones, always putting them back afterwards.
Many organisms are invisible at first pass, especially flatfish,
shrimps, etc that change colours. You have to stop and stare for
a while. Once you get your eye in (what biologists call a
"search image") your brain will become programmed to
spot these hidden animals and it becomes a LOT easier.> The
only reason I got what I did was that I had the idea of looking
in masses of seaweed and I'd find one or a max of two
animals. You said to read a book on the marine fauna of the area
I'm collecting, are there any specific titles you know of?
<I like the 'Petersen Guides'. The title 'A Field
Guide to Southeastern and Caribbean Seashores' would likely
be most useful. There is also 'A Field Guide to Atlantic
Coast Fishes', but that'll not cover the invertebrates
and includes a lot of fish you'll never see or be able to
keep.> I have tried to find them before, and have had no luck.
Also, could you give some more information on catching the crabs
on a baited line? That sounds like a good idea if I decide to go
with larger fish. <Catching crabs is very easy using a hand
line of some sort (as opposed to a proper fishing pole). I
don't know the proper name of the device, but here in England
at least you can buy them from any shop by the seaside catering
to tourists, since EVERY kid spends the summer catching crabs and
other tide pool animals at some time or another. You bait a hook
with, really, anything. A bashed-in mussel or limpet works well,
but so will some chopped seafood from the grocery store. Drop the
line somewhere plausible. If there is a crab, it'll come out
quite quickly, grab hold of the line. If you're careful, you
can pull the crab up and net it before the crab lets go. Some
species are less tenacious than others, but as a rule Shore Crabs
are incredibly easy to catch this way. That said, for the small
ones you want, it's easier to just turnover seaweed and pick
them up by hand.> Could part of my problem finding fish be
that I was in water 2-3 feet deep? <Honestly doesn't make
much difference. A shallow tide pool will yield lots of fishes if
you know where to look and are exploring a decent bit of
shoreline.> Thanks for your help, Brandon <Do visit the
BMLSS web site, here: http://www.glaucus.org.uk/wetthumb.htm Lots
of info on keeping native (British) marines, the principles of
which hold for any non-tropical marine fishkeeping. Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: Native marine fish; selection, maintenance
2-9-08 Thanks again for all the information. I wish that we
Americans in general held our native fishes in more respect.
<Well it's not "we Americans" in this instance,
since I'm British. But I get your point, and it holds equally
well here. Maintenance of native British fish, whether freshwater
or marine, is fairly uncommon. Oddly enough, it was very common
during the Victorian era, when Gentleman (and quite a few Ladies)
would maintain marine aquaria containing anemones and the
like.> It would be so helpful in getting information. I just
have a few more questions (at the moment anyway). First, do you
know if minnow traps work (the ones that have the cone shaped
entrance)? <Should work. Certainly worth trying out. If
nothing else, I bet if you baited them they'd catch lots of
shrimps and snails.> I'm thinking about buying one. Thanks
for the suggestions on where to find the fish. I've had no
experience with the ocean as I've only been there twice (once
when I was about a year-and-one-half old and last year when I was
fourteen-and-a half). Do you have any specific ways that you
really like for catching fish/inverts over sand? <It's
actually very difficult over sand because few animals that swim
about over sand are small enough to do well in tanks. It really
is rocky shores that you need. Estuaries are also very good, as
are salt marshes. Both of these environments are common enough in
Florida, but do always remember that these environments are also
frequented by things like crocs and alligators (alligators less
so in brackish/marine environments).> I badly wish there were
rocky beeches down in Florida so that I could try to get
tide-pool animals. <Indeed. Do also look online if you want to
get a few things to start off with. There are marine supply
houses like Sachs Aquaculture that collect and ship all sorts of
American fish/inverts.> Thanks again for all your help,
Brandon P.S. Are there any anemones that live over sand? <A
few, but nothing very dramatic, and they're never very common
in shallow water. Sandy shores are constantly changing as the
sand moves with each tide, and there's very little cover for
animals unless they burrow into the sand. So sandy environments
are great for clams and burrowing crabs, but bad for anything
that depends upon solid objects for shelter.> I really wanted
some when I last went to the ocean, although I wasn't
expecting to find any. <Oh dear. Well, good luck,
Neale.>
Re: Native marine fish; selection,
maintenance What I was meaning by "we Americans"
was referring those of us who live on this side of the Atlantic
as I was aware that you were British. Sorry I didn't clarify
that. However, I was of the opinion that cold-water marines and
natives were relatively popular over on your side of the ocean. I
guess I was wrong. What made me think that is in a lot of my
aquarium books by Dr. Axelrod he says that Europeans tend to keep
a lot more native fish than we Americans. <Really? Not read
this. But may be so. I do have at least one book from the 50s or
60s called "Marine Aquaria" and it's all coldwater
stuff.> However, all my books are pretty old (70s-late 80s
[yes, I know, I need to get some more modern books. However, with
such a good website like Wet Web Media, I've been able to get
along pretty well without that extra expense]). <Ah, but we
won't be there when you go fish shop shopping, which is where
a really good aquarium atlas comes in handy!> Anyway,
you've been very helpful; in talking to you for what,
two-three days, I've gotten more information than I've
been able to find in months. Thanks a lot, Brandon <Happy to
help, Neale.> Hey, I forgot to ask in my last email, do you
know of any other marine supply houses? I was able to find one
besides Sachs Aquaculture, but that was all. Thanks, Brandon
<Not familiar with any in the US, so can't help. But do a
search for "Biological Supply" and you should come
across a few. Do also grab a book on native fishes so you can
check adult sizes, water chemistry requirements, temperature, and
so on before you drop the cash. Cheers, Neale.>
Who is the author to your book? <L. A. J.
Jackman is the author, and the title is simply "Marine
Aquaria", published 1957, Cassell & Co. Turns out you
can buy it online easily enough; e.g. on Amazon for the princely
sum of $6.> Is it very helpful? <I think so. There's
stuff on how to collect, what to collect, and so on. Obviously,
given the book is 50 years old, the stuff on the hardware aspects
are rather dated. But any other marine aquarium book will fill
you in on that aspect of the hobby.> If so, I'll try to
find a copy of it, although it'll probably be pretty hard
with a book that old. <Seek and ye will find. Do also try your
public library; librarians can be remarkably helpful when it
comes to solving problems like this!> Thanks, Brandon
<Cheers, Neale.>
|
Re: Cold Water Marine fish tank in the U.K
9/26/08 Thanks for that Neale am I right in thinking that, if
I by uncured rock and cure it at the temp I am going to use it. It will
become live rock and filter my cold water marine tank. <Correct;
there is nothing specific about live rock that magically fulfils this
function; rather it is huge surface area available for bacterial
colonisation, plus the limited flow of oxygen through many of those
holes, that allows nitrifying bacteria to colonise the outside and the
denitrifying bacteria to colonise the inside. There are artificial ways
to create the same environments. It just so happens live rock is
(relatively) cheap and (very) decorative. Put tufa rock or any other
porous rock into an aquarium in sufficient quantities and you will get
essentially identical effects. Moreover, your coldwater invertebrates
and algae will encrust the rock, so that long term, you'll have
something visibly as well as functionally identical to cured live rock.
However, do remember to use appropriate quantities, and bear in mind
lower temperatures slow down bacterial metabolism, as well as those of
fish and invertebrates. Cheers, Neale.>
Cold water animals, sel. 12/26/07 Bob- Hey
I've been asked to write an article on cold water tanks and their
inhabitants (I'm thinking Pacific Northwest). I have no problem
writing the article, and I even plan to set up a tank like this. Do you
have any leads on where I can go to order anemones, shrimp, Seastars,
and other items well suited (coming from) the Washington/Oregon area?
Thanks much, Adam <I would try one of the "Biological
Supply" houses... e.g. Carolina... B>
Chesapeake Bay Tank Hello Reef Gurus, Greetings from
Tidewater ,VA ! I already have a 70 gallon tropical reef tank, but last
week I was given a 55 gallon tank & stand, which I wanted to set up
as another reef, but my wife reminded that we have 2 children in
diapers & reef tanks ain't cheap! (she always foils my plans-
aarrgh!!). So in lieu of a reef tank, I am setting it up as a local
Chesapeake Bay tank, complete with live rock & sand from the bay.
Nothing like free! <I do not know if this will be much cheaper once
you factor in the expensive of a chiller and electricity maintaining
those cold water temperatures.> So here are my questions- The tank
is being run by an Emperor 400 with bio-wheels, lighting is supplied by
a 110 watt compact fluorescent, and 2 free hanging powerheads for
circulation- is this enough filtration/lighting? <Seems
adequate.> Right now the tank has 4 pieces of "live rock",
mostly covered in green & red macro algae with some small anemones,
tube worms, and barnacles. Other than small hermits and snails, the
rest of the livestock will be locally caught fish- from the minnow
seine of yours truly! You would be shocked to see the fish we are
catching off the beach, juvenile puffers, pipefish, seahorses,
lookdowns, spadefish, filefish, various jacks , and sometimes
"lost pelagics"- i.e. butterfly fish & other cool stuff
that swims into the bay during the summer. <Yes, I have heard many
stories of Caribbean fish wandering to far North during the summer.>
I am wondering if I could/should use LSB using local live sand,
<Sure, but stay thin, less than 1" deep as an experiment.>
do I need a skimmer for the plant rock, <It would be nice.> and
is this enough light for the rock as well? <Seems ok, but your
growth or lack there of will them you shortly.> Right now the bulbs
are 10k. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanking you in
advance, Joshua Scialdone <Please see here for some additional
information, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cold.htm
-Steven Pro>
Sub-tropical marine species Hi Bob, <Anthony Calfo in his
stead, my friend> Hope all is well with you. <and the same to you
in kind> Do you know of any commercially available sub tropical
species that would do well in a 44g seahorse coral kept at 71.6
degrees? <if seeking species of fishes: my advice would be to avoid
most or all. Seahorses are so patently gentle and require so much food
that most other fishes will be a significant burden and direct
competition for food. They really fare best in species tanks only>
Are there any soft corals that will do well at this temperature?
<there certainly are a both soft and hard coral species that live
very fine in this range, however all such invertebrates are protected
in US waters and none others are imported that I know of. I recently
tried to secure temperate invertebrates from CANADA and discovered that
the process was somewhat complicated and the sources were too distant
for safe transit> The Baensch Marine Atlas has 21 degrees
celcus(71.6 F) listed as the low end of the temp range for quite a few
species. I was wondering how these fish and corals would do at the low
end of their recommended range, <not recommended because
aquarists don't have otherwise ideal parameters like the ocean to
support such animals living "on the edge". It really is
asking a bit too much IMO> as I usually keep my fish in the mid
range of their temp requirements? <agreed...very wise> Thanks as
always, Leslie <with kind regards, Anthony>
Re: Sub tropical marine species Hi Anthony, <salute>
Thank you for the prompt response and info :). I am a bit bummed that
my temperate tank won't be as pretty as my tropical tanks, but then
again the magnificent abdominalis should make up for that what my tank
will lack in the way of temperate inverts. <Ahhh.. the temperates
have their own unique beauty> I understand your concern about
keeping seahorses. It certainly is valid and apropos in light of what
keeping seahorses meant in the not so distant past. However, I feel
compelled to share with you that with the recent advent of commercially
available aquacultured seahorses this has dramatically altered what
keeping these truly incredible creatures means for all of us who have
fallen so deeply in love with them. No disrespect intended here.
<understood and agreed> Your willingness to share your knowledge,
expertise and experience is always greatly appreciated. I always look
so forward to the warm, patient, gentle, caring, and humor laced way
with which you and Bob respond to so many inquiries. I would like to
return the gesture and share with you some of my experience keeping
these incredible creatures if that would be acceptable. <very
welcome with thanks!> Just a friendly exchange of information. If
you have heard this before I apologize and hope you do not
misunderstand and take offense as none is intended. <none will
be taken... a re-enforcement of knowledge at least> If you have not
had an opportunity to keep any of these, ever so amazing captive bred
creatures, you would be very pleasantly surprised :)!! We have been
blessed and are very fortunate to be able to keep these magical
creatures thanks to Ocean Rider, South Australian Seahorse Marine
Service and Ocean Oddities. <fine organizations... unfortunately,
most queries from aquarists are from individuals that are considering
already imported to already purchased wild harvested specimens. Very
few people do their homework first and ask us "where to buy"
seahorses. In such cases we have been eager to recommend Ocean Rider
and Seahorse.org> I have been keeping captive bred seahorses for
almost 4 years now. They do not present the typical problems of their
WC cousins. They do very well when kept with appropriately chosen
gentle tankmates and can actually be quite aggressive eaters. They are
healthy, hearty and willingly accept and thrive on frozen foods.
<and properly handled wild caught ones will do the same..
unfortunately, most are mishandled or starved on import. A few years or
even decades has not changes the inherent physiology of the animal. We
are simply blessed with properly handled and well conditioned
tank-raised specimens> They are quite amazing. Believe it or not
most are more aggressive eaters than you would ever expect. Mine race
from all areas of the tank when those first few shrimp start to scatter
about in the gentle current. They eat frozen foods one to 2 times a day
depending on their size and age. The diet recommended by the
breeders......Ocean Rider, South Australian Seahorse Marine Services
and Ocean Oddities ....consists mainly of frozen Mysis as well as
enriched frozen bs, with occasional live treats. The availability of
commercially CB seahorses has made keeping these magical creatures in
our homes a reality for so many more than the previously recommended
advanced marine aquarists only. In fact my very first marine aquarium
was set up for CB Ocean Rider seahorses. I did very well, as did the
ponies. I found they were not much more difficult that many of the
freshwater fish I had previously kept. I just recently lost my first
pair of Ocean Riders to a tank crash. I had them 4 years or so. They
were in excellent health prior to the crash. <this is very fine for
aquarists with species tanks for seahorses, but I may never recommend
even CB specimens for the mixed community fish tanks that most
aquarists would like to put them in> Have you had the opportunity to
visit www.seahorse.org. <yes... a very fine site to be
recommended> I am proud and honored to be one of 13 directors. We
have over 800 members and a very active board. Jan 1, 2003 will be our
2 year anniversary. Our members are keeping seahorses very successfully
in modified species tanks with the appropriate carefully chosen
tankmates. They are thriving.....growing, colorful, active, courting,
breeding and reproducing viable fry. We usually recommend allowing the
horses to settle into the tank, get comfortable and establish an eating
routine prior to adding any tankmates. Although they usually eat within
hours of being acclimated if food is offered. <excellent> The
tankmates we suggest are gentle fish of course, including species from
the following groups.....gobies, Jawfish, dragonets, non-algae eating
blennies, Firefish, assessors, Cardinalfish, and the lined, fairy or
flasher wrasses. <agreed... and not recommended with
aggressive common community fishes like damsels, clowns, tangs and
angels> I have found my captive bred seahorses seem to show interest
in and enjoy the tankmates. In addition to the tankmates listed above,
Ocean Rider actually recommends and has clients keeping them
successfully with Percula Clowns, some Butterflies, Tangs and Wrasses,
recommending avoidance of Damsels, Triggers, Tomato Clowns, Anemones,
and any aggressive fish. <without limitations I would disagree with
some of the above> Some of our members have kept the horses
successfully with Fridmani Pseudochromis and I have kept them with a
pair of Black Cap Basslets without any problems. <they are
actually peaceful fishes... no surprise, and what beauties they
are!> As with any tankmate I always recommend adding all tankmates
with caution keeping a very watchful eye, with the understanding that
the fish will be removed at the first sign of any misbehavior.
<very wise> As I have found even the most peaceful fish
occasionally seem to have a "roguish" bad apple requiring
strict disciplinary action.......removal and relocation. <agreed>
For the occasional slow eaters we get around the food competition issue
by feeding the tank first and/or target feeding the slow pokes with a
turkey baster. I have found this works very well. I hope what I shared
was helpful and not in anyway repetitious for you or offensive <very
helpful... thanks again for sharing> Thanks for listening I know how
incredibly busy you must be. <a labor of love :) > With Kind
Regards, Leslie <best regards, Anthony>
Mussels Hi Bob, I was wondering if adding New Jersey sea
animals to my aquarium is a good idea. (Your thinking probably
not???) <Depends... on whether they're physiologically,
physically, behaviorally compatible... to what you can offer> My
aquarium is a 30 gallon fish and hardy invert tank set up for a few
months. Its got a Prism skimmer and a Marineland Emperor filter, and 20
lbs of live rock and 3 lbs of live sand. It contains 4 blue leg hermit
crabs, a damselfish, and 2 porcelain crabs. I was thinking of adding
mussels, crabs of different sorts, and maybe a few other bivalves. I
see many butterfly clams (Donax variabilis) on the shore especially at
low tide. Is it wise to include them into my tank, or should I just
find other things to put in it? Thanks much for putting up with me,
Jen. <Well, this is really a small volume of water... what will you
do when it's the equivalent time of winter there? Return the native
animals? Get a chilling mechanism and remove the tropical animals? I
encourage you to study what the shore there has to offer (much, have
been to NJ numerous times), and perhaps put up a specialty tank that
mimics the conditions (thermal, current, lighting...) of some part of
the offshore environment and attempt to keep a few types of organisms
you have a desire to study further. Bob Fenner>
Deep Water Bob: Just watched an amazing show on Discover
Channel (Blue Planet) about deep sea life. <Yes... a factoid re the
depth of water on this planet. If all land were smoothed, it would be
some ten thousand feet deep (shades of Waterworld!). And though light,
dissolved gas is limited there, much diversity and abundance of life to
be found in other than the thin skin which is the pelagic zone>
There are truly amazing creatures down there - I especially
like the luminescent variety like the anglers (use light for bait) and
the shrimp the can set luminescent "depth charges" to confuse
predators. Anyway, my question is: have you ever encountered a man-made
environment, like a tank that displays these
creatures? (Kind of like the dark rooms at zoos for
nocturnes) <Mmm, yes. There have been public aquarium and research
set-ups that 1) lack light, 2) are kept very cold... to house abyssal
life... types that could be hauled up as such> I would think that
would really be something to see - I'm sure having a home display
of these would be much too difficult. Could these creatures
survive at low pressure, or would their tank have to be pressurized or
something? <Some, like Giant Isopods, are routinely kept, fishes
thus far don't "make it".> Boy, you think Angels are
expensive; I would hate to see prices on THESE deep-sea dwellers!
<We will see this... some day soon in my estimation> Regards
<Thank you for writing. Bob Fenner>
Dungeness crabs in a home aquarium? I live in Tacoma
Washington and do a lot of fishing and crabbing. I was wondering if you
had any ideas or pointers on keeping Dungeness crabs in a home aquarium
for later consumption. I haven't been able to find anything on the
internet on care and requirements for Dungeness. <Dungeness crabs
are very tolerant of a wide range of salinities, as you know, they are
often found in estuarine areas, I would recommend full salinity (33-35
ppt). Also, unless you are pumping in natural seawater for the system,
I would foresee a chiller as being necessary. Being carnivorous, they
could be pretty easily fed a ration of shellfish/shrimp/crabs and
similar foodstuffs. Beyond these considerations, I would think normal
good aquarium husbandry would be the only issue to their keeping.>
Thank You, Morgan Moroni <Best, Chris>
Keeping locals (cool/cold water marines) To all the wonderful
WWM staff (especially Anthony) Please have your coldwater specialist
answer this As a So. Cal. resident, going
to piers often, and seeing on an almost regular basis many pet trade
specimens (sharks and rays) 2 of which I have seen at my
LFS. I have never known what they were except a famous few,
but would like some care data on my locals, especially the ones I am
interested in. They are numbered an listed in the order I
would like them. As previously mentioned, I am
looking into a 220 gal tank, and cold water is still an
option. Their captures will be mentioned
also. First, Zapteryx exasperata. Is it
'exasperating' to keep (pun intended)? <Nope. Refers to
markings> I find this to have an occasional appearance at the
piers. Second is Rhinobatos productus, <Note to readers,
these are Guitarfishes... dorso-ventrally flattened Elasmobranchs
(shark relatives)> These are there almost every other time I
go. This is also the one at the LFS, but it was kept at 78
degrees! <Not well or for long> Is there a similar
looking species that it could have been, but then again, there was also
a Urobatis halleri <I changed the spelling> in
there. What would be first, but there is the size
constraint, is Triakis semifasciata. <Too big, active for such a
small, rectangular system> I found this to be much more
than semifascinating. (pun again intended) My friend hooked
one of these himself, fishing for a Productus. His 180 gal was lowered
to 75 pushing it for both the shark and the tangs. Final for
the locals I wish for is Urobatis halleri. This was
interesting later, as a different fish was identified as
one. That story was with a small Myliobatis
californica. One about a foot and a half wide was pulled in
by my friend, and believing it to be a stinger, went to cut it off.
<Yikes... this fish gets VERY big... as wide in the wild as your
tank is long> Finding none, he assumed some thing had happened, and
the stinger had fallen off. He took it home, lowered the
temp of his cage again, (the leopard went to 3 feet, and was
released) Now he had two rays, a blue-spotted and an eagle
(unknowingly) He took good care of it, but it succumbed to
temperature poisoning (as we call it) 75 degrees wasn't good enough
for it. It lived about 16 months. I could not
find them on your site, at least not their name specifically, the sand
shark. I believe it to be either Heterodontus francisci
(most likely) or Cephaloscyllium ventriosum. Do you know
about the advanced care of either of these? <Try the Google search
tool on the WWM homepage (bottom left)>
Now enough with the
stories. what kind of chiller would I need? <Kind as in
size? There are calculators for draw down (the diff. between ambient
and desired temp.) by volume... I would look for at least a 1/2 HP
unit> To take a load off the chiller, could I make ice cubes from RO
water to use for evaporation top off? <You could... but this is very
laborious, tiring> What kind of lighting, substrate,
etc. would I need? <Please reference the sections on WWM
on coldwater systems... the links therein> What type of
filter media would I need? Carbon, bio-balls, filter pads,
etc. Would I need a current, or a wavemaker? What type of
decor is possible? I saw your site that says little
decor. How much would they eat? <All covered on the
site> Looking at a possible placement of smaller
food-sized fish or inverts for a shark or ray in a separate
tank. aka grunion and other small bait fish, or sand crabs,
urchins, etc.. Would I be able to keep a water dweller
(leopard) with a sand dweller (banded guitarfish)? <Could be done in
a large enough system. Hundreds to thousands of gallons>
Please save me from giving the same fate as the poor eagle
ray. Thanks for your time, another person named Bob <Bob, time to
"hit the books". Bob Fenner>
New coldwater ideas Hi Bob! I am once again looking into a
coldwater system, but on a much grander scale. I am looking at a
900 gallon acrylic system. (I was just reading about the insulative
advantages of acrylic over glass in coldwater on your site) It will be
10' long by 4' wide by 3' tall. <Neat> the stand will
be a reinforced steel frame used in hardware stores, covered in wood
for a more aesthetic appearance, and will also have a 220
Tidepool/bait/refugium tank in the bottom middle of the stand. It will
have multiple reinforcing walls inside the stand. For filtering, I am
looking at a large fluidized bed going to a wet dry (the wet-dry to
help reoxygenate the water after the fluidized bed sucks out all the
oxygen. the chillers will be custom made from some DIY plans off the
'net, I will probably make 2 to 4 before I get the temp at a steady
60-66 F Its going to be outside (if/when I get it) so no
artificial lighting will be used except for red bulbs for nighttime
viewing. I might put 1 or 2 full spectrum bulbs on the Tidepool, for
the algae. Are there any commercially available coldwater algae-eating
snails? <Yes... or should I say, there are wholesalers who purchase
cool/coldwater ones from the U.S. west coast and these are available,
often sold as tropicals> do you know about the legalities of
collecting organisms and rock from tide pools/rubble areas? <A
little. Is this for California? All States have their "fish and
game" groups, laws, licenses/taxes... and there are protected
areas, sizes, often seasons, limits, species... contact the "fish
and game" (sometimes called by other terms, e.g. Dept. Natural
Resources... re what they require, limit> is it legal to purchase
fish (horn/swell sharks and guitarfish especially) off the piers and
keep them? <I think so. Quite a task gearing up for these moves
though... but a very worthwhile adventure... need good battery operated
air pumps, a 12v ("cigarette lighter") fluid moving pump...
can be had from bait/tackle shops...> If you want them, I can send
you some of my plans from the computer (it is not entirely exact, the
refugium may need to become smaller if more chillers are required)
Thank You, Robert <Send it/them along when you have them done or
thereabouts. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Cold water marine tank in the UK, collecting
Actinia 4/16/06 Hello, <Hi there> I'm
very much into tropical freshwater fish keeping and would like to start
looking into keeping a cold water British saltwater tank. I haven't
been able to find that much information which goes into enough detail
for me. <Mmm, there are some very good books (e.g. by Dick Mills),
even magazines (Marine World) that give good coverage here... and some
very worthwhile articles worth pursuing by Dave Wrobel... requiring a
large library/college visit likely> The tank I would be using is
33in long by 15 in wide and 18in high. I would really like to keep some
/Actinia equina/ or similar with some small fish. Where would I find
/Actinia equina /easily? <... Perhaps a stockist... otherwise a
biological supply house> I'm not into diving etc but getting to
the coast isn't a problem for me, I currently live in South end,
Essex. <Do check re local laws concerning collection> The tank is
lit by 2 x 20watt tubes. I currently have this tank setup as a planted
tropical tank and the lower light loving plants seem to do well.
Getting my hands on a aquarium chiller isn't a problem. Maybe I can
speak to someone on the phone to find out more or be put in contact
with someone who already keeps such a tank? thanks for your time,
Graeme King. <Try some of the local hobby clubs that are nearby.
Contact info. can be found re in the back of Marine World Magazine. Bob
Fenner> Live rock in a cold water marine system 11/7/05
Hello crew <Hi there Patrick> I kind of have a dumb question if
you don't mind; could cured tropical live rock be placed in a cold
water marine setup, without affecting the beneficial bacteria? <Mmm,
depends on how much cooler... will subtend metabolism... might create a
physiological stop for a time... but usually some will live, prosper a
few days, to weeks later> Thank you for your time, Patrick.
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Coldwater Hermit Crabs in a tropical arrangement? 10/31/05
Hello WWM Crew, I have a 25 gallon SW tank. Currently the tank is set
at 78 degrees. I was wondering if a coldwater hermit crab species could
live in my tank. I live in Monterey, California where there are many
local tide pools that are occupied by many hermit crabs. I've
looked online and the hermit crab species is Pagurus samuelis. I
figured that since they are tide pool dwelling animals they are
acclimated to frequent changes in their habitat, <Good
point> such as temperature, so they may be able to be ok at 78
degrees. What is your opinion? Thanks, Taylor. <Might adjust... if
tried/introduced during the warmer time of the year... but don't
think these will live well or long kept in a tropical setting. Bob
Fenner>
Cold marine tank question- anemones and lighting -- 03/18/07
Dear WWM denizens, <Of the deep?> I've enjoyed your FAQs
quite a bit, but am finding it tricky to find information on setting up
a cold marine tank. <We don't have much... yet. Do a search
about for the written works of Dave Wrobel here...> I
have found the wonderful people at coldwaterfish (a yahoo group) and
the occasional lurker on saltwaterfish.com knows something about cold
marine tanks, but still am encountering difficulties. <Okay...> I
have a 1/6 hp chiller, protein skimmer, and powerhead, in my 29 gallon
tank. I'm writing today to ask you about
anemones. My tank is going to be a sea star dominated tank-
<It's kind of small...> I'll have 1 bat star and probably
two ochre stars, <Patiria and Pisaster? Know them well...> but
I'd also like to have a couple of anemones. No (or maybe
1) fish, a couple of hermits, a couple of snails, that's it.
<Mmm, again... wish this tank were bigger> Does anyone on WWM
know about lighting requirements and Pacific NW anemones? My initial
research indicates that they need less light than tropical anemones,
and indeed, that even fluorescent lighting would be sufficient for a
couple of small anemones. <Do need some of the same requirements...
of temp., CRI as other Actinarians from the tropics... not as much
intensity...> Your response is most appreciated. Thanks
again for being there on the web. Rachel <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm Scroll
down to the Anemone tray, the bits on lighting... And do consider
penning an article or twenty on this field! Bob Fenner>
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