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Botryocladia skottsbergii HELP! Rhodophyte control in a nano 7/2/06 Hi Great website. Its may mainstay of info. <Glad it is of use to/for you> I have mainly all PICO and NANO sized tanks. I have two tanks with beautiful growth of coralline and many zoos and other corals, however it being over run with Botryocladia skottsbergii. At first I did not mind it, but now its just gotten out of hand. Even my hermits and snails all sport coats of the stuff...... <Yikes... "Attack of the Sea Grapes"!> Simply stated. I need it gone or at least a way to control it. I tired to manually clean it off the rocks, but it seems to propagate it. Tanks are much to small for a tang unless I "rent" a small one for awhile. I use I/O salt, SG is 1.026, temp 81 deg, cal 460, alk 11.6, ph 8.3, I use Chaeto for nutrient export and run a protein skimmer as well. The tank that is worst is a 12 gal nano. Is there any other small fish that would eat this stuff.......that would be better suited than a tang.......I sure do not want to ruin my live rock and its encrusted life. Any help is greatly appreciated. Roy Hauer <Mmm, an excellent discussion of various "bubble algae" here: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-02/hcj/feature/index.php including input on control means. Turbo species snails and small tangs of the genera Ctenochaetus and Zebrasoma would be my first tries... though these last can't live in such small confines indefinitely. Bob Fenner> Red algae - 05/05/2006 I have had an issue with red bubble algae for sometime now. By searching the FAQ I initially thought it was Botryocladia. I now am not sure of this. Reasons being that in other responses it was said that many predators would feed on this and it would disappear soon. <Sometimes...> I have had the problem for nearly a year now and it is worsening. Though I do not have a picture of this I can tell you that it does not grow on a stalk or vine like the Botryocladia in pictures I have seen, but rather directly on the rocks, filters covers and even snail shells. I have tried manually removing the bubbles but while attempting this I popped a bubble and a gel was secreted. <... this is likely a blue-green algae... not a Rhodophyte> I can only guess that this is how the algae reproduces because it spread like bird flue after that. The best way I can describe the culprit is to say it looks like a strawberry. Any ideas or predator suggestions would help. <... do you have access to a microscope of two hundred plus power? Bob Fenner> Gracilaria/Propagation 4/29/06 Hello WWM Crew, <Hello Andrew> Just a quick question about Protein skimmer discharge. I was wondering if there is a practical use for the skimmed liquid from my protein skimmer. Specifically, I am curious if this would make a good fertilizer for Macro Algae. <<Mmm, no. RMF>> I am cultivating Gracilaria verrucosa in a separate 15 gallon tank with a submerged spray bar to keep it tumbling over itself. Would a small dosage of the skimmate from the skimmer act as a fertilizer for the Gracilaria, or would the potential for toxic build up of other compounds/chemicals make this more trouble than it's worth? I'm a big fan of recycling nutrients as opposed to outright removal, but I thought I would ask and see if anyone else a little more qualified then myself (a whopping 1 year of hobbyist experience - WooHoo!) had any thoughts. I searched for discussions on this for quite a while to no avail. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated. <The best place to recycle skimmate is in the toilet. In using the skimmate as a fertilizer, you may/will have a nuisance algae explosion. Not worth experimenting with. I suggest recycling your discarded water from water changes into the 15 gallon tank. This should give your grace all the nutrients it needs.> Thanks, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Andy Ogo and quarantine 03/07/06 Hi, <Aloha> I ordered some Ogo from Indigo <Hee! Will send to Gerald, Heslinga... Indo-> Pacific Sea Farms about a week ago. It is currently in a 15 gallon qt tank. It is under 96 watts of PC light, and it is being tumbled around by a powerhead which might be too powerful. Salinity is 1.025, temp is 80 degrees, PH 8.3, no ammonia nitrite or nitrate, calcium 400, and the water is RO/DI. My problem is I don't know if it is doing all that well. The plants <Algae> are still red, but the tips might be turning slightly white. <Not atypical> Is this from two much light? <Likely "just" shipping, stress> I would hate to lose the Ogo before I had a chance to use it, so is it safe to add some to the tank for food for my tangs, <Yes> or should I wait the two week quarantine period. <Are you concerned re Aiptasia, or? I would search through it, feed a bit off, move some to other quarters for culture (if you have them)...> I contacted IPSF and they said quarantine was not necessary, but I am still a little leery about putting it in the tank. So do you think this okay, or should I wait? Thank you, Aron <I wouldn't likely. Bob Fenner, who will eating Gracilaria in pokes on the Big Island in another day or so> Gracilaria parvispora culture - 02/16/2006 Hi, <Hello> I would like to start growing Ogo as a food source for a few yellow tangs. My problem is it is expensive and a screw up would be costly. So I would like to run my plan by you before I start. I will put the Ogo in a 10 gallon tank, lighting will be 96 watts from power compact bulbs, and water motion will be provided by power heads pumping a total of 560 gallons per hour (more if needed). <Not needed... circulation can be much less vigorous> Nutrients will be provided from water from the main tank, and possibly from frozen food juice added once a week. I write this because after reading from your archives I am kind of discouraged from others not so successful attempts. Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you, Aron <? Not difficult to culture... I would boost (through new water additions) the alkalinity and biomineral content... 12 dKH, 450 or so Calcium, about three times whatever calcium is in Magnesium concentration... and keep out other algal species... Bob Fenner> Gracilaria repro. 1/16/06 Hi Crew!! <T.W.> One quick question... I'm looking to sell Gracilaria algae on a well known auction site here in the UK as I have loads of it and I would like to know one thing - does this go sexual like Caulerpa does? <Umm, no... No noxious, discoloring production...> Thanks for the great service - your site is my first port of call should I even need help... Keep up the good work!! Tim Walters UK http://marine.kite-it.co.uk A history of a Marine Tank Setup <Neat! Bob Fenner> Gracilaria; and the Environment Needed for it to Thrive 12/03/05 Hi I was wondering if Gracilaria had to be in heavy flow or if it could grow in the main tank anchored to the floor. <Gracilaria occurs as a floating mass (without hold fasts) it demands high light intensity and plenty of random water flow to keep it tumbling. It is best grown in a separate vesicle like a fishless refugium and not the display, see here for more detail: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/redalgfaqs.htm .> Thanks <Welcome.> --Sbatiste <Adam J.> Can I Get Some Ogo To Go? 09/25/05 Hello, I was at this site called Indo-Pacific Sea Farms and was reading about "Tang Heaven Red". They call it a natural red sea weed that our tangs will love. Have you great people at W.W.M. ever heard of this stuff. If you have is it easy to grow in an aquarium like they say it is? <<Some Tangs love Gracilaria parvispora, also known as 'Ogo'. It is possible to grow Ogo though I would not say it is easy. Please see this link http://www.wetwebmedia.com/redalgfaqs.htm). You could also search WWM for "Gracilaria".>> Thanks for taking the time to answer. Jim Jesko <<You're welcome. Cheers - Ted>> Tangs eating Fauchea 8/29/05 Hi, I have been trying to grow Gracilaria with very limited success for our Tangs. They are very picky (spoiled) and only really like the Red Gracilaria or Green/Red pressed seaweed selects. Unless they are hungry, they won't touch Ulva or some of the Gracilaria. I was given a little piece of Fauchea for the sump, and it has grown like mad (or as you say... like a plague). Before I offered it to other reefers, I put a rock of it in the main tank just to see what the Tangs would do. They are going crazy over it (the Yellow has already devoured 1/2 of it). How can I find out the nutritional value - will it give them they vitamins they need and can they eat all they want without harm? Given it's growth history, if it provides for their nutritional needs (other than the meaty foods), it will be wonderful!!! Thanks for your help! Doug <A gorgeous genus of Reds... Does have nutritional value... some references to this on Google Scholar... otherwise it's off to the large college library you go. Bob Fenner> Nitrification/Denitrification and Chaetomorpha linum 8/1/05 Thank you so much for such a prompt reply. <<Glad to help>> I have had a really good look around your site, and I'm still struggling to find a few more answers, so I really hope you don't mind me asking just a few more questions. With the cycling process in a aquarium without a wet/dry filter, where does the ammonia and nitrite conversion take place exactly. The reason I ask, is because I have always previously understood, that the bacteria required to perform this conversion only survives in aerobic conditions. With no wet/dry, there are no true areas where oxygen is constantly present, so where does the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate conversion take place. (or have I totally missed something?) I'm "guessing" that it all happens with bacteria present in the live rock/sand, but all I have read about DSB's and live rock is its ability to convert nitrates back to nitrogen because of the "good" bacteria living in the anaerobic conditions. <<Good guess. There are two processes to consider. The nitrification process is an aerobic process where the waste is oxidized. The denitrification process is an anaerobic process where the waste is reduced. The aerobic process occurs on the surface of the rock as well as the sand bed. The anaerobic process occurs deep in the sand bed as well as in deep pores in the rock.>> I'd really appreciate it if you could clarify this for me. <<Hope this clears things up for you.>> (I really do apologize if this question/query has been asked before, but I've had a good look around and still cant find the answer - thank you! :)..) Just going on from the Chaetomorpha question, the main reason I asked if it existed on all coral reefs, is because I was wondering if it could potentially be harvested here off the coast of Australia. There is a store in Western Australia who would be prepared to look for it, IF they knew it existed (as they at the moment they only harvest Caulerpa for refugium applications)<< I found an internet site that indicates that C. linum is found in the Indian Ocean and in particular mentions Australia as part of the distribution. Please see http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/getent?2833 >> Thank you once again. Paul << You're welcome. Cheers - Ted >> Thank you once again Ted, that clarifies a lot - and thanks for the link re: Chaetomorpha. <<You're welcome. Glad things are bit clearer.>> I'll try and refrain from anymore questions for the time being - but no doubt once I finally have my tank up and running, I'll have a multitude! Paul <<No worries. Good luck and don't hesitate to ask questions. Cheers - Ted>> Tap water Rinse for Aiptasia? Another Infestation of Aiptasia after Buying Gracilaria - QT! Dear Crew, <Paul> After receiving in the mail, a half-pound of beautiful Gracilaria parvispora infested with Aiptasia, I am at a loss as to what to do with it. Currently, it is isolated in a bucket of saltwater with lighting and aeration but the vendor does not seem to want it back. Is it possible to completely kill the Aiptasia and its larvae by soaking the Gracilaria for several minutes with chlorinated tap water? <Mmm, no> I don't want to contaminate my aquariums but I hate to simply throw out the Gracilaria. Thanks, Paul <I would go the route of using a purposeful Glass Anemone predator with this red algae, while still keeping it separate from your other systems. These Aiptasia-eaters are listed on WWM. Bob Fenner> Anotrichum barbatum (The Red Scourge!) - 05/17/05 I have what looks like red turf algae. Anotrichum barbatum was the name I was given. <Is a red turf algae, yes.> Is there anything I can do to get rid of it? All parameters are optimal (0 or correct levels). Lighting is 300 watts of VHO, HOB refugium, and a mini 606 power head. This tank is a 20L. Current inhabitants are a clown, Kenya tree, BTA, lawn mower blenny, misc. blenny, scarlet hermits and blue leg hermits. <You need much more flow, especially with that BTA. Please increase water flow to 10x-20x the tank volume.> Is there something I can put in there that will eat it? Possibly a Nudibranch of sort? <Not likely. This algae can be very troublesome to eradicate. Elevate your pH to 8.6 and keep it there for several weeks, this has proven successful for some. I would also recommend adding a protein skimmer to help with nutrient export...an AquaC Remora would serve you well here.> Thank you very much, Stephen. <Very welcome, Eric R.> Re: My reef tank plans I do not know if you needed the original email or not so I keep it, sorry if it causes any problem. Just want to pass on this info on red Gracilaria tikvanhie. <Thank you for this... couldn't find on the Net... as you've mis-spelled the scientific name... twice!> You had said you never heard of this species. I know you guys always like new info. http://www.hawaii.edu/reefalgae/invasive_algae/rhodo/gracilaria_tikvahiae.htm Thanks for the fast reply. Gary <Thank you for the reference. Bob Fenner> Aiptasia infestation & quarantine question Dear Crew, <Hi Paul, MacL here with you this fine and lovely day.> Last week, I obtained a half-pound of live Gracilaria parvispora (Ogo) from a dealer in Hawaii. I specifically asked the dealer if I needed to quarantine the Ogo before adding it to my downstream marine refugium. His emailed reply was no. <First and foremost, quarantine everything!> Upon adding the Ogo to my refugium, I noticed a few dead amphipods. A few days later, I discovered three 1-inch Aiptasia specimens attached to the glass and to a clump of Ogo. I've never had Aiptasia in my tanks before. After spending all night throwing out everything in my refugium including live rock, quarantining the Ogo in a bucket after the fact, sanitizing my refugium and hoping that the Aiptasia hasn't made it to the main tank, are there any other precautions I should take? <You should be aware that lots of people use Aiptasia in refugiums for nutrient export. On the other hand its possible that this dealer was unaware that he had Aiptasia in his Ogo. Most people are going to say that you don't have to quarantine grasses etc before you put them in your tank because usually they come out of a situation where they've been used for nutrient export.> Regarding the dealer, should I simply warn him to check his Ogo tanks for Aiptasia or should I also demand my money back? What is customary? <I might email him and tell him that you ended up having to put the Ogo in quarantine because you found some Aiptasia in it and you didn't want to chance having that go into your tank. I'm sure he didn't mean you any harm, but if you feel very strongly about it you might see if he's willing to give your money back or perhaps you two can come to a compromise. You'll need to treat the Ogo in quarantine to remove the Aiptasia from what's there.> Aiptasia Infestation Dear Crew, <Hi Paul, MacL here with you again today.> (1) If Aiptasia is used in refugiums for nutrient export, how does one prevent the Aiptasia from contaminating the main aquarium? <The people I know who are using it in this manner are keeping in enclosed in their sumps. So far they are telling me that they are not having it move. I personally wouldn't like to take the chance. One person I know who is cultivating it in their refugium has a second tank with softies that contains peppermint shrimps and copperband butterflies in the line before his main tank, so he controls them that way.> (2) Is it common for growers of Gracilaria parvispora to culture it in tanks with amphipods and other marine creatures, such as Aiptasia? <With pods, definitely. With Aiptasia, probably not. But there are many people who don't view Gracilaria the way that others do. To them its a nuisance. This is something that is changing as more people begin to use it in their refugiums.> (3) Are you aware of any suppliers of live Gracilaria parvispora and Chaetomorpha linum within the 48 states? (I live in Colorado.) <Honestly no I'm not unless Inland Aquatics has it. However, I do know that there are lots of people trading it on lots of websites. One with people close to your area would be www.reeffrontiers.com. They have a lot of people based in the western United States who are using Chaetomorpha.> Thanks very much. <Its been lovely to talk with you Paul, if we can be of any further assistance please let us know. MacL> Botryocladia Predators Hello. <Hey, Mike G here> I recently purchased a red grape macro (Botryocladia sp.) and would like to know if there are snails that will eat algae, but not touch my red grape macro. <An astonishing array of herbivorous marine life will consume Botryocladia species macroalgae, I am sorry to inform you. I would think it would be consumed soon after you began to fill your tank.> Also, would a lawnmower blenny eat the red grape macro? <I would think so.> Fauchea for Tangs? 1/8/04 Hi, Will Tangs eat Fauchea and if so, does it supply nutrition similar to Tang Heaven? <it is not so readily accepted as Gracilaria. I am not sure about nutritional value though. I've seen the specs on Gracilaria (Tang Heaven), but nothing on Fauchea. My advice is to stick with Gracilaria... Fauchea can be a miserable nuisance over time. Somewhat noxious too> Red Fauchea looks like a species that grows really well in a tank or refugium <yes... because it is a nuisance <G>> (we've tried several times to get Gracilaria to grow out for the tangs - no luck). Thanks! <do try to find a copy of our "Reef Invertebrates" which has extensive coverage of refugiums, plants and algae species (the most comprehensive in the industry to date). But the crash course on Gracilaria is most people do not give it enough light (5 watts per gallon minimum... 2-3X even better), or enough water flow (very strong is needed to keep the colony tumbling in suspension in the aquarium). This algae is line or basket grown in shallow tropical waters under very bright light and strong wave action. Anthony> Where Did That Ogo Go-Go? (Mystery Gracilaria ID) Hi, <Hi there! Scott F. at your service!> We received a type of Red Gracilaria that differed from the branchy type in that it was rather flattish, somewhat transparent and "slimy." Our tangs loved it and it seemed to grow better than the thin branchy type. I found a picture at one time that indicated the species was from Japan. The Caulerpa smothered it out and of course I can't find the picture/type now. Any idea what the name of it was or where it could be obtained? Thanks, Doug <Well, Doug- I believe that I have encountered this species before, myself. I think that it may be G. salicornia, but you may need to do some internet searches to be sure. University of Hawai'i maintains a nice database on macroalgae with links that may be of interest...I highly recommend checking it out. Best of luck on your search! Regards, Scott F.> <<There are dozens of species of Gracilaria... RMF>>
Red Algae ID 10/9/04 Okay, I found this picture on your website, its not mine but this is exactly what is growing so prolifically and acting as home to my clown. Would you take a shot at it. <Halymenia or Kallymenia IMO. Please also take note of the excellent database "algaebase.org"> I am so fascinated by it. No emperor, huh? I want a big hardy fish, Koran? Blue face? <they are all too large/difficult. Anthony> Gracilaria in the sump Greetings Gents! << Blundell today. >> I have a miracle mud system that has been running for about 1.5 years. Things are doing well, and the sump is filled with Caulerpa. I am trying to grow SPS and think it is time for a change. I am going to attempt to replace the Caulerpa with Gracilaria, (Tang Heaven) which I purchased a ? pound from IPSF.com. Do you think this is a wise choice? << Pricey stuff, but good stuff. >> Are there any precautions or procedures that I should take when replacing the Caulerpa? I am thinking that I need to have the Gracilaria grow for a few weeks and slowly remove the Caulerpa in small daily bunches. << Sounds great. Gracilaria is not nearly as easy to grow, so it may be tough getting it established. >> Any advice would be kindly appreciated. << Blundell >> Gracilaria culture 9/28/04 Thanks for getting back to me! My goal is to get rid of the Gracilaria and the Cyanobacteria. There's very little Caulerpa in there now, and I may move it to my 20G nurse tank. For the moment, I'm going to leave it for nutrient export unless you think it's a problem. I'm going to buy new filters for my RO/DI to help with the silicates. <I would definitely leave the macros for nutrient export. As I said in our first exchange.. I wouldn't sweat the silicates. There are advanced aquarists who actually DOSE silicates to enhance sponge and tunicate growth.> I'm going to do the following for the Gracilaria: -Reduce the light cycle to -->Actinic: 8:00am - 8:00pm -->Daylight: 9:30am - 6:30pm -->Moonlight: 6:00am - 6:30am, 8:00pm - 8:30pm -Remove the crushed coral -Adjust the temperature to your recommendation. On a side note -- I recently move this tank from my basement, a constant 67 degrees, to my office, which fluctuates between 72F and 78F (Uhhh -- guess that would've been a good time to take out the crushed coral. DOH!). The outbreak started 6 months before the move. My CSL lights give off a TON of heat, but are elevated about 2.5 inches from the top. I have glass hoods that retain heat, so I try to leave them cracked open for airflow and evaporative cooling. Should I remove them all together? If so, would any of my existing fish be likely to jump, such that I should lower the water level a bit? <Your wrasse have a very tiny chance of jumping, but otherwise you shouldn't have any problems. Lowering the water level won't stop a determined jumper anyway. Enhancing evaporation will not only allow you to better control heat, but it will also allow you to add more Kalkwasser (higher pH and alkalinity will help with algae problems).> I'd like to purchase a tang as well. I plan on upgrading this tank to around 120G in the next year. Would this be suitable for me to keep the tang? Thanks again for all of your help! Deb <Most popular tangs will do just fine in a 120. Best Regards. Adam> Growing Gracilaria (Tang Heaven) 6/14/04 Hi, quick couple questions. I ordered some Gracilaria from IPSF and have a dedicated 10 gallon grow out tank. I don't think using carbon would be beneficial, is this correct? <I probably would not use carbon.> Also do you think it would be wise to dump some of the skimmate from my display tank protein skimmer into the tank to increase nutrient levels? <I think it would be safer/more controlled to simply do regular partial water exchanges with your display tank, or even better incorporate the 10g as a refugium.> Would direct sunlight be beneficial? I can place the tank next to a window along with the florescent lighting that it currently has. Thanks for you help. AB <Sunlight would be great! This is pretty high light stuff. It also does best if it is constantly kept in suspension and moving, so it does require a fair amount of water movement. This also means that regular harvesting and pruning will be necessary to keep it from overcrowding itself in your 10g. Good luck! Adam Red Hair/Branching algae - Ceramium 5/31/04 Hello Bob, <Anthony Calfo in his stead> I hope you're well and in a good shape. <the more years that go by with me working in front of a computer, the rounder I get. I'm thinking of strapping my laptop to a treadmill <G>> I'm ok too, it could be better but it could be worse.... <keep on keeping on my friend> I have received a question about : "red algae Ceramium (???, do you know this algae?) <the correct spelling is Ceramium with an "m". It is a nuisance species... one of the many things called "red hair algae". This one really is a doozy though. It naturally occurs in high nutrient near shore environments and often lives as an unwelcome epiphyte on other critters and substrates> The aquarist has a wild growth of these algae and can't get rid of it. <no worries... it can be controlled. Easily starved into submission with tighter nutrient control. Really... it can disappear in 2-3 weeks with wicked protein skimming. It probably got there because of poor protein skimming, weak water changes and/or weak water flow which allowed sediments to accumulate> He asks for my help. Al seems to be good in his measurements but he has a Ca test of 600, to heavy I think. <I doubt that the reading is even accurate. Indeed too high. And if his Alk is not very low, then I am sure it is a misreading. Else, the poor chap is having a precipitous snowstorm as we speak <G>> I ask for my help and I ask for the help of the supreme chancellor.... <Hmmm... yikes! And we've just been calling him "Bob" all along.> He said he had a problem with his Ca reactor a while ago, what he did to help the problem, he didn't say, perhaps is the solution knowing what he did.... Read You. Regards, the best. Claude <Claude, do suggest in concert with starving the algae out, some Diadema urchins (Pacific or Atlantic species). They will only be treating the symptom and not the problem, but will give results fast. They are marvelous algae grazers. One small urchin per 100 gallons if you want to be conservative. Prost! Anthony>
Marine operation/maintenance and red algae I'm a newbie learning the ropes and finding your site was priceless. (maybe you should do MasterCard commercial....) You guys are awesome for all you do! Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! (should I suck up some more?) <Please no more! We all do this because we love the hobby. It is sincerely our pleasure!> We are building a reef. Going very slow! A little over three weeks into it and tank has cycled and Coralline is coming on STRONG! Only thing we've added is 6 Turbo Snails. Refraining from adding creatures is HARD, but know (thanks to you guys!) that patience will insure success. We want to continue research and have a complete livestock list and a clear plan of attack rather than randomly adding things... It is a 55g w/ 88lbs live rock and a 10gal overhead refugium. I'll spare you the rest of the peripherals and get right to my ???'s. <That sounds like a lot of rock! Is there any room left for animals<g>? It sounds like things are coming along nicely, and Kudos for your patience!> In the refugium I have an 8lb live rock which has lots of barnacles. When we first bought the rock it was covered with waving cirri. I have since seen many dead cirri floating around. Inevitably they are dying from a lack of phytoplankton? <Phytoplankton or other suitable food. These animals typically are not long term aquarium survivors.> They are, however, reproducing as we've seen many cyprid larvae running around. "What the hell is your ?" (You asked that at just the right time!) Is it worth trying to feed these and save them or not? I found a post, regarding DT brand liquid phytoplankton, suggesting that this brand had appropriate size particles. I could shut down the 'fuge flow for a short time and feed them, so as not pollute the display. I feel responsible to try and support them since I bought them (in a round about way). <DT's will provide food for many larval organisms, and if you wish to use it you will likely see some benefits. No matter what you do, it is unlikely that you will grow anything but amphipods, copepods and mysids to maturity. Because of long pelagic larval stages, most other critters will be killed or eaten before they can "grow up". DT's will simply make them more nutritious food items for your corals and fish!> Second ?.... I attached a photo of a plant also growing on this rock.... I'm guessing that it is in the Rhodophyta family, but haven't been able to find a photo exactly matching it.... Is this a good plant to leaving growing for nutrient export? Lastly, I would like to add some additional snails to help keep microalgae in check (still researching what we want for macroalgae). Can we add these without quarantine since there's nothing else in the tank? Thanks again! Brad <Your algae is too small to be sure, but it is most likely Gracilaria. It has the advantage of being great food for herbivorous fish, but is relatively slow growing compared to Chaetomorpha or Caulerpa. You can add the snails without quarantine, but if you wish to follow a strict protocol in the future, you must wait several weeks before making any other additions. Best Regards. Adam>
Getting Gelidium! Hello guys! <Scott F. your guy today!> Hope all is well. Can you help me, I have red turf algae (Gelidium pusillus) that is slowly taking over my rock. The snails keep it short, but it is still a slow creep that covers up my coralline algae and is becoming a general nuisance. Do you know of anything other than tangs that eat this stuff? Inverts, crabs, slugs, anything? <Grr...this is a miserable algae, which I've battled myself. I have yet to find an herbivore that eats this stuff, although a friend of mine swears that his Tuxedo Urchin has eaten the stuff...> Once we get our giant skimmer setup that will slow it down, but until then I need help! This stuff is impossible to get rid of. You can't pull it off the rock, toothbrush scrubbing doesn't work, and I can't take all my corals off the rock and cure it. So what's a girl to do?? <There is a tactical nuclear weapon that the Air Force has tested...Nah, seriously, I think that you should continue with the tedious manual extraction until the skimmer is in operation. You could try the urchin, but beware of the potential collateral damage that this creature could cause...> Thanks! Luv, M&M |
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