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Partial die off, aging reef -- 06/14/07 Greetings. I have a 60 gallon reef tank with approx 125 lbs of live rock, assorted leathers, polyps, and fish. I realize this is a bit generic, but I have a general question so I wanted to keep it short. This tank has been established for 4 years now. As with any tank, it has gone through it's ups and downs. Mostly through my education. Never the less, for the past 6 months, the corals and fish have been doing exceptionally well. Coral growth has been excellent. I am running a 265W, 24 hr Current PC lighting system with a 10 gallon refugium (Chaeto, live sand and rock rubble) lit 24/7. <Mmm, I'd make this a RDP light arrangement... with the light on the refugium off while the lights on the tank are on... and vice versa> AquaC Remora Pro skimmer w/ Mag 5 pump( good output). All parameters are in the acceptable range for this type of tank except for the PH which has risen to 8.4 and steady. <Interesting...> The dual actinic lights come on at 11:30 AM and the dual daylight bulbs come on at 12:30 PM. They go off at 8:30 PM and 9:30 PM respectively. I do a 15 gallon water change every 2 weeks with RO/DI water w/ sea crystals, and replenish with the same. The Bulbs in the unit were 15 months old. I just replaced them yesterday. <Good...> No discernable difference in lighting appearance. <Not easy to discern... but the lamps were shot...> Now to the concerns. Lately I have had an outbreak of Cyano (red) algae. <Perhaps related to the lighting...> I have also lost a Green star polyp and one of my two yellow polyps is closed up. Now the two polyps in question are on the same lighting side. The second yellow polyp in on the opposite lighting side and has no apparent degradation. I tested for Ammonia (0.0), Nitrite (0.0), Nitrate (< 10PPM), Calcium (410), PH (8.4). Temperature is between 79.0 and 81.0 depending on the time of day. Historically, the PH hasn't been that high. Normally I had a problem with keeping it to 8.2 or 8.3. <Likely the salt mix...> Also I have a green mushrooms on a rock (approx 10) that are slowly dislodging from the rock. No new additions in livestock since this started. Have I done the right thing in replacing the bulbs? <Yes... but I would have replaced just one, two at a time...> I know it is time, and that is the only aspect that I can think of that would have an impact. Thanks in advance. Jay W. Thom <Mmmm, you might want to mix up some of the new water, test it for pH and alkalinity... I'd be replacing some of the hard substrate/s (rock and sand) in a system of this age as well... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/substrepl2.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Trying To Keep Up With The (Forgotten?) Office Tank --
06/12/07 Hello All--- <<Greetings Ann>> Just some
general guidance needed. <<Okey-dokey...let's see if I can
help>> A 120 gallon Oceanic Reef Ready tank & sump
(4'x2'x2') was set up by others in my office showroom.
<<Mmm...am not a fan of such tanks...are often neglected>>
These others have become less and less available so I have taken over.
<<Happy to hear 'someone' still cares, but...my case in
point>> This tank has 2-3 inches of sand bed, approximately
160lbs of live rock, 1-5" Sailfin Tang, <<Needs to go to a
larger system>> 1 Cinnamon Clown, 1 Pajama Cardinal, 1 Bansaii
Cardinal, <<Bangaii?>> 1 Firefish Goby, <<A
'Dartfish' actually...but are 'Goby-like'>> 1
Blue Damsel, 1 Fairy Wrasse, 1 Jewel Damsel, 1 Red-Headed Goby, 1
Snowflake Eel (who no longer feeds and his head area has started to
"shrink up"-dying?), <<Am guessing environmental/water
quality issues>> Turbo Snails, Blue and Red Legged Crabs, 1 Fiji
Leather, 1 Devil's Hand, small Red Mushroom. <<So this is a
reef tank, eh>> The lighting appears to be Coralife Deluxe--2ea
65 w 10000k and 2 ea 65w Actinic. Filtration is bio balls. <<That
Fiji Leather (Sarcophyton elegans) needs more intense lighting than
this. Adding more 10000K bulbs would help>> No skimmer.
<<This is a mistake...in my opinion>> The water is 80
degrees F, pH 8.4, salinity 1.022, <<The salinity should be
closer to natural saltwater values (1.025/026)>> nitrite 0, and
nitrates 2.5ppm. 20% water change done once a month. Any ideas about
the eel? <<There's nothing in the listed water chemistry that
jumps out at me...perhaps a nutritional deficiency. Please read here
(http://www.wetwebmedia.com/snowflakemoray.htm) and among the links in
blue>> Should the bio balls be removed and if so should live rock
be put in their place or is the display rock enough? <<These
don't appear to be a factor if the Nitrate reading is accurate but
they could be removed if you wish, the existing live rock should be
sufficient for bio-filtration>> Could you recommend a skimmer,
preferably in sump? <<Indeed...take a look at the models offered
by Euro-Reef or AquaC>> Can the lighting support anemones or what
do I need? Recommendations for anemones? <<I recommend you
'do not' place an anemone in this system. These virtually
immortal animals require special considerations and, in my opinion,
should only be attempted by experienced hobbyists able to provide
species/specimen specific systems tailored to their care>> Can
the tank handle any more fish? <<Probably...with some changes.
But I recommend you wait until you have gained more experience/learning
before adding more livestock to this system>> Recommendations in
general? <<Read/study/research... If you are truly committed to
maintaining/improving this system then please avail yourself to the
plethora of information on our site (here's a link to get you
started: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/reef1.htm). I also strongly suggest
you get some books on the subjects at hand. A few suggestions might be
'The Marine Aquarium Handbook: Beginner to Breeder' by Martin
A. Moe, 'The New Marine Aquarium: Step-By-Step Setup & Stocking
Guide' by Michael S. Paletta, and of course 'The Conscientious
Marine Aquarist: A Commonsense Handbook for Successful Saltwater
Hobbyists' by Robert M. Fenner Thanks for your help. Ann <<Do
feel free to write back with more specific questions as they arise.
Regards, EricR>> Reef Algae control 6/6/07 Thanks for the reply Bob. I have another question that is not related to the lamps. I have several LPS frags (Acans, Blasto's, and a Chalice coral) that have algae growing on the rock that they are attached to. The greenery looks like a cross between hair algae and Chaeto. It is long small strands that resemble grass. I've been taking the frags out of the frag tank and putting them back in my main display tank to let my Passer Angel and Rabbit fish mow down the mini lawns. Should I keep this up or take a knife and scrape off the top layer of the rocks to stop this algae growth? Do you have a third option like to buy this snail or that crab? Thanks a bunch for you insight, Chad <Need to discover two things: 1) What this algal material really is (will likely need microscopic examination, and a reference work to discern by gross morphology) and 2) The root cause/s, circumstances that are allowing its profusion... and THEN to solve/limit the second in regards to the first... Likely either nutrient deprivation, competition, or as you state specific predation. You have read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/index.htm Scroll down to the tray on Algae... Bob Fenner> Save the Amphipods/Copepods! Team OCD. 5/24/07 Hello, <Hi Deb, Mich here.> I'm emailing with what is probably a stupid question, but I haven't found anything in your FAQs that addresses this. <What's the quote.... the only stupid questions are the ones that aren't asked?> I was cleaning my fish tank yesterday and was replacing the carbon in my canister filter. When I break down the filter to pull out the bags of carbon, I end up spending a ton of time searching for amphipods and copepods in/on the filter media to "save" from being dumped with the water removed from the tank (I tend to rinse the bags in the old tank water and soak the new carbon in it as well). <Mmm, yep.> So my question is -- am I being entirely too anal-retentive? <Mmm, yep. There's a name for this condition... It's called Obsessive Compulsive Disorder, OCD, for short. Seems to be particularly common in reef keepers. Welcome to the club. We meet at 3:33 on the third day of the third week and Anthony Calfo is our president.> I am not currently running a refugium in this tank, so I value each and every 'pod that I've got. <My guess is a refugium wouldn't change this compulsion... is more likely a "Deb quirk".> Also -- there's the "life" aspect of it -- I don't want to merely dump these little guys away, sealing them to a fate of slowly drying out on my driveway. <And the guilt issue that you put them there... am I close?> Is there a better way to filter out 'pods in my filter media and reintroduce them into the tank? <Not that I have found.> I thought about trying to gather them from the water pulled from the tank before dumping it, but it's usually so dark with detritus and carbon powder that you can't see anything in it. <Strain it with a fine net. Oh-no! Now I'm feeding the monster!> I've been picking them out by hand and placing them on the live rock in my tank. <Mmm, yep...know the sickness...feel the fever.> I do the same thing when I replace the other filter media in my canister as well. <Yep. And I bet you dread siphoning the substrate...> Thanks for any input that you might have on this. <Wish I had better advice but either embrace this quality, accept it as one of your quirks, and keep picking or change it, particularly if it's negatively impacting other areas of your life, and seek treatment. Only you can determine what is right for you.> As always, you guys/gals rock! <pick and petfish-roll!> Deb <Cheers! Mich> Getting Rid Of My Bio-Balls -- 05/07/07 Hi, <<Hello>> I spend a lot of time reading your site for answers, great site. <<Thank you>> Anyway I have a 500gal reef tank, currently having problems with algae, and have been reading about getting rid of the bio balls. <<Yes, there are better methods...and with your live rock/substrate the bio-balls are likely not even necessary/essential to the system>> I have an AquaMedic 500. I understand to gradually replace the balls with live rock, and also understand that the live rock should be submerged. <<Yes...though the addition of live rock is not often a necessity as most hobbyists have enough already in the display>> The problem is that at the moment the bio balls are not submerged, and if I replace them with live rock and fill the sump with enough water to submerge it, my protein skimmer then stops working. <<I see... Then assuming the rock/substrate in the display is adequate, simply adjust the water level to whatever height is optimum for your skimmer (leaving out the rock) and maybe add a bag or two of chemical filtration media>> Any suggestions or answers as to why this happens. <<See previous statement>> Also, can I use carbon if it is placed between the white filter medium which is on top of the sponge. <<Sure...you can place carbon just about anywhere along the filter flow path>> Tank been now going for 2 years, and am now having problems, have tested everything, now have a refugium, bio balls being my last resort. Please Help. Kay. <<Regards, EricR>> French man with multiple questions... reef maint. f' -- 4/28/07 After passing many hours on your FAQ's, too many in my wife's opinion, I couldn't find the answer to some of my questions. I stated this so you know I looked. My questions are 3 fold; Coral, Fish and Lighting, all combined for your amusement! <Okay!> I have a display tank of 135G (72Lx18Wx24D) on my main floor with a 90G sump in the basement with the skimmer and a 15G refugium still in the basement. That makes a little over 220G of circulating water. The main pump circulates around 2,000 gallons per Hrs. I have around 130pds of live rock, distributed around the 3 tanks, and no coral for the moment. The display tank hosts 2 clown fish, 5 Pajama Cardinal, 1 Longnose Butterfly, 1 Pearlscale butterfly, 1 Flame angel, 1 Bi-color angel, 1 blue Hippo and around 125 blue legged hermit. I will return my Longnose (He ate all my shrimps, twice,) and will add 2 Synchiropus splendidus soon as well as 4-5 cleaner shrimps. All the levels I control are good; Nitrite below 0.1ppm, Nitrate below 5ppm, Ammonia below 0.6ppm, <Should be zip, nada, undetectable> PH @8.4, Calcium @ 420-430 ppm and the temperature is maintain @80o +/- 1o and the salinity is stable (auto top-off is great) @1.022. Should I control other levels? <Mmm... I would raise the spg. to 1.025... and Maybe monitor Mg, check phosphate periodically, measure for anything you add/supplement (e.g. Iodide)> I have 2 fluorescent lighting ballast containing 1x30W 18,000K and 1 20,000K each. I know it's NOT the best, but I blame it on my (slow) learning curve. After the description, here come the questions. I had around 25 snails (Margarita & Astrea), and all were eaten within a week of introduction, I think either by the long nose or the hermits. Do you have any other idea who else could be the culprit? If I want to bring in new snails to complete my cleaning crew, which one would you recommend? <I would not introduce other/new snails here... Likely consumed by the Hermits of what you list> I have the intention to slowly introduce coral to the display tank. I've heard that some mushroom and polyp taste bad, thus if the fish are fed properly, they won't bother them. Is it true? <Of the species you list, not likely a problem> Is it the case with some SPS, LPS, gorgonians or clams? I like the angels & butterflies but is there some species that are less dangerous for the corals. Any ideas of a 'new model' of butterfly in order to replace the Longnose? <Posted on WWM... see the family (Chaetodontidae) re Compatibility, Selection> There is also two more inhabitant I'm looking to possibly introduce; a star fish and an urchin, the royal blue, would it be any problem with the rest of my project family? <Not likely, no> I obviously want to change my lighting. But I couldn't find a clear answer regarding my needs, current and or future. I don't want to overkill on the lighting, but I would like, and my wife too, that this would be the last big expense on this hobby of mine, so I need to be right! She lately told me that if I don't stop spending she will throw everything out and replace the fish by a large snake! <Yikes!> I'm wondering if I should go with 3MH across the tank with a combination of VHO/PC/T5 or with a 2MH on 2/3 of the tank with lower light on the other side? <Would be very nice... even just the MHs> If I do the latter, is it true that the MH could melt the top-divider in the tank? <Too likely a problem... need to center these over the water... maybe just two pendants... and the T-5 in the middle area...> My best bet at this moment is to go MH (3x250 + 4VHO + blue night lite) <Am not a fan of the actinics (except for looks...) as you will see by perusing WWM> Should I go higher or lower for the MH bulb? <In terms of wattage? No higher, in terms of height? I'd make these adjustable... In terms of color temp.? Please read on WWM re.> If I install this kind of light, do I need a chiller? I sure hope not if I want to sleep in my bed at night! <You may need a chiller depending on the setting of this tank/system... Am out visiting with friends in Toronto (giving a pitch at MAST in a couple of hours) and they have a very nice 320 gallon with MHs that they have to run a chiller on during the summer, part of other seasons... due to the location, insulation of the house/spot where the tank is located> I will use the fluorescent light, in addition to the MH, to bring some actinic and to recreate sunrise/sunset. Now what is the real difference between the T5 and the VHO? Is one better than the other, for my use'¦ <The T-5 is better, but only nominally... the VHO would do/look fine here as well> Last small question, at what distance from the water level the night light should be installed? <A few to several inches> Thanks a lot for you time! Yves Leduc French man from Ontario <Welcome. Bob Fenner. A yank from S. Cal., visiting Canada currently> Unstable pH in reef tank 4/23/07 Hello Crew, <Garrett> I have been doing a lot of reading on your site and could not find a similar question to my problem. Here are the system parameters: 120 gallon tank 4 years old sps reef 1 Regal Tang (4 inches) 1 Yellow Tang (4 inches) 1 Emperor Angel (5 inches) <Needs more room...> 4 chromis 1 mandarin goby 1 false clown 1 yellow headed goby many many snails and crabs 150 live rock 4-5 inches of oolitic sand Amp Master 3000 main pump 2 maxi jet 1200 Aqua C 240 Protein skimmer w/mag 9 1 cup of carbon used (changed monthly) <Good> 2 14K 250 watt MH 2 110 actinic VHO's Nitrate .02 Phosphate .015 Salinity 1.023 Calcium 360 Alk 10 dKH temp 79-80 depends on Neptune program pH 7.72-8.05 <A bit low...> I feed the tank inhabitants once every two weeks a 1/2 inch cube of Mysid shrimp and twice a week Spirulina pellets. <Do try Spectrum pelleted food with these fishes... complete nutritionally and surprisingly palatable (yes...)> I perform a 5 gallon water change every Sunday which also includes changing out the filter socks and cleaning out the protein skimmers. All water is topped off with R/O water and buffered and aerated for 12 hours. Before I add any new water to the tank the pH is verified at 8.3-8.4. <Good routine> I have been using a standard grade pH probe and I have recalibrated it then rechecked readings with a CPI pH test kit and both have confirmed the same pH drops. For the past week I awoke to see my pH reading 7.72 and I began to bring in up using Seachem pH buffer. I tryed to bring it up slowly using 1 tsp per 20 gallons as the instructions indicated. This brought the pH up to 7.92 in two days. Then up to 8.04 over the next 3 days. However each morning I wake up to find out that the pH has dropped back down to 7.79-7.83. <Yes... a bunch of biota, reductive activity... and not much ready source of carbonate, secondarily bicarbonate... You have read here?: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/index.htm Scroll down to the dark gray bar...> Now for the question part. All other tank parameters seem to be fine and the corals are bright and colorful, growing well, and polyp extension is good. What can I do to bring my pH up and keep it there? <Mmm, a few things... please read first... consider adding a bunch more "fresh" LR... or better, a refugium... with a DSB of depth... macroalgae, lighting on a RDP...> I understand that my pH will fall during the night since I don't have a 24 hours light cycle <Ah, yes> but why does it fall back to the original pH? Should I add more pH buffer, raise it faster than recommended? <Not what I would do, no> As always your site has been a great help. Garrett <Do take a read/go at the articles, FAQs files referred above... and we'll chat again. Bob Fenner> Need help/advice... reef maint., no useful info. 4/22/07 Hope you guys can help. I am trying to remove possible pests and stabilize my tank again. Not sure about some critters I have recently noticed. Please read to get full picture. <Will do> I have a 75 gallon reef tank that is 2 1/2 years old and doing well up until just recently. There is a protein skimmer on the back and a chiller as well as two power heads and SunPod lighting (algae blooms started since, also corals are flourishing). I keep the temp at 78. I do not know if that makes a difference. <In terms of?> As for fish have I have had the following for over two years 2 black and white clown fish 1 Lrg Blue Tang 1 Royal Gramma 1 Blue fin damsel Invertebrate life Large brown bristle sea star 2 sand shifting sea stars A Hawaiian feather duster that has smaller feather dusters appearing around it, which I think is good. 2 Tubular anemones <Mmm... Cerianthids? Aiptasia?> 2 dozen Red legged and Blue legged Hermit crabs 2 dozen snails mix of Astraea and Nassarius and zebra Arrow Crab Corals: Blue Mushrooms Button Polyps Long tentacle color plate Corals Cup Corals Pearl Coral Sun coral Bubble Coral Chili Coral All doing well Just lost the following in the recently (Three to two weeks ago) due to bad DT's Live Marine Phytoplankton Reef Blend & Oyster Eggs (store said), but want to make sure that that is all that could be wrong. The Nitrates and Ammonia spiked and the PH was a little low after deaths because of initial water change of RO without PH buffer of new water. Died first week 1 coral beauty Angel 1 Yellow Tang Died Second week 1 blue faced Koran Angel <Would eventually be too big for this 75> 1 cleaner shrimp 2 snails Have since the last set of deaths Changed out 20 gallons with RO water Added a liquid bacteria reef pack added phosphate pellets in a baggy to filter added new charcoal/phosphate/ammonia guard pads to filter added Marine PH buffer and added calcium, 1 hour apart as directed on bottles added purple up twice a week 1 cap full I have only ever use RO water in this tank. <Am not a fan of this last product... and would not add it, nor the previous two w/o testing...> I am trying to figure out how to get the tank back into balance <How is it... unbalanced currently?> again. I think I have fixed the problem, but now have issues with green long hair algae and noticed the following. I have noticed 2 - 3 mm sea stars in the past around the rocks that are clearish white and have noticed a single tentacle sea star leg sticking out of the rocks that is white and red striped across the leg. This is actually a 3 legged bristle star. I figured this is not a big deal since live rock brings with it little critters and I have not had an issue since the initial live rock was added when I started the tank. Should the red and white striped 3 legged sea stars be a concern? <Likely not> There seems to be over 60 spread out over all the live rock by now and are about 1 inch in circumference. I have also experienced a large outbreak of bristle worms the maximum size being 2 1/2 inches. I think the might have hitched a ride on a coral that I introduced to the tank a year ago. I have added an Arrow crab 6 months ago and have over 24 red and blue small hermit crabs. Also about a month ago I got a green hair algae bloom and red slime and have been reducing feedings as well as light time. I have two species of snails that take care of most of the algae on the glass yet do not touch either the green hair algae or red slime. Some of the snails have gotten hair algae and also little white what looks like baby snails by their openings on two of them. My water test say my tank is stable <Need data... not opinions...> and the local fish stores have also confirmed my readings as of now. I feed daily: frozen Shrimp cube DT two cap full algae flakes <I'd switch to something/s more nutritious... Likely Spectrum pellets as a staple here> Please advice if possible. Thanks, Scott <Umm, need hard data... or can just give you subjective evaluations in return. One thing I would do with a system such as this size, type, age, is switch out or add about 25% of the live rock... Please use the search tool on WWM re these words/concept. Bob Fenner> Heating/ cooling and too much too soon? 4/19/07 <Greetings, Hays.> I have a 26 gallon bow front tank. It has been set up for about 3 months. <"Set up" as in cycled, or filled with water? I hope you mean cycled.> I have lost several fish lately and currently have only a prawn goby, sixline wrasse, cleaner shrimp and emerald crab. <For starters, several fish more than this would be too many. Test figures are very helpful here, and if you don't own a kit, you need one.> Coral include, polyp Zoë, pulsating xenia, feathery leather toadstool, flowerpot coral, double ricord. mushroom and tube worm. <Is this a first attempt at reef-keeping? I am surprised at the species of coral you have together here for such a young system. Goniopora is a species regarded by the majority to be an "advanced" reef-keeper species.> My lights are 130-watt power compact, <Just one?> heater is a 100w Rena Cal (best one I could find locally) with temps staying between 76-80. <Too much fluctuation, here.> I live in Mississippi with ridiculously hot summer days approaching. I am wondering if I need to get a chiller and/or remove my heater? <Removing the heater may seem well and good at first, but for stability, you should have both and set them so that neither is working against the other.> Is it a good idea to use both in order to keep the temp in a certain range? <Oh, yes. See above.> I turn my air conditioner off during the day to save on electricity, but it is cool at night. <Temperature swings of two or more degrees in a day are also stressful to fish and inverts. Imagine the volume of the ocean and the relative temperature stability of that huge mass of water.> I am also curious of how many hours you recommend the lights be on. <See below.> I have had a problem with brown algae on the glass, is that more from the fish dying or too much light? <Hmm. Interesting point. Many algae problems are attributed to chemical instability or imbalance in the system, and this condition is very stressful to animals. Usually the brown film you mention is considered by most to by a mild irritant, but only visually. Most of the time it is part of general maintenance of the system, and can even phase out as other more desirable forms of competition spring up. As for the lights, I would think that everything in this system *should* be fine with the light levels you currently use (Goniopora is often found/collected in less than clear waters, in medium light. I would recommend 8-11 hours of operation, depending on factors such as heat-contribution, power consumption, and even algae control (But the last the least). Ease into this if it is different from your regular schedule.> Thanks for the help. Hays <Welcome, and good luck! -GrahamT> Siphoning Sand Bed 4/14/07 Good afternoon Crew. <Mile> I have a 55g SPS/LPS Reef that has been up and running for about 3 years now. I recently took out some live rock to open up the aquarium. I noticed that when I removed this rock which was sitting on the sand bed a lot of gray particulate matter entered the water column. Since then all has settled without loss of life, fish or coral. If I use a siphon to go through these areas of the bed to remove this trapped particulate matter would it be bad for the tank and its inhabitants. <Likely innocuous> This of course would be followed by a water change of about 10 gallons. I don't want to release a nutrient bomb. Any help appreciated. Thanks, Mile. <Mmm, this "mulm" is very likely almost entirely non-nutritive. No worries. Bob Fenner>
IPSF starter kit is in the refugium -- will residents starve? Feeding Refugium Residents and Other System Tweaks! 2/23/07 Fellow WWM mariniacs, <A very appropriate title! Scott F. here tonight!> I just built a 20 gallon sump/'fuge to go with my 30G display. <A nice boost in size!> 'Fuge info: + Mag 7 for return through ½' PVC40. (24' rise, or so, out through ½' street els, GPH unknown, but seems to move well). Terminal street ell drilled with small hole just below water level to minimize siphon-back on power outage. One union for disassemble and cleaning. + About 7 lbs small live rock fragments in one compartment, + 6' ~1.5mm aragonite DSB in another section, + Separations are the sliding acrylic baffles with the rubber weather stripping. + 'Fuge also has Prizm Pro skimmer, 220W stealth heater. + Got the Mix N Match Kit from IPSF and seeded with 'fuge starter stuff -- bristle worms, mud, clams, snails, tang red, tang green, 'pod kit. <One of my favorite e-tailers. I highly recommend them> The 30 glass display has: + Two yellow-fin damsels, Lenny and Squiggy + Pseudochromis Diadema, sponsor of state terror <Sounds delightful!> + Shapely and colorful green Actinodiscus perched on rock maybe 10' from lighting, dead center under actinic lamp. + Fat and happy blue Actinodiscus with babies nearby (perched higher than green, maybe 6" from lighting) + Blue mushrooms are surrounded by some green and yellow zoanthids that came along for the ride from the store. + Emerald crab, maybe ¾ inch diameter carapace. + Small miscellaneous hitchhiker crab, blackish and meek. + Four small hermit crabs. + CPR 90 overflow (with Aqua Lifter) from Marine Depot (hums like a butterfly, stings like a bee) -- 1' PVC40 overflow back to 'fuge. Two unions for cleaning and a ball valve--Noisy, baby. + About 35 lbs live rock, arranged in triangular aquascape, peaking at left with blue 'shroom and zoanthid rock at the top about 6' from the lights, and defining an open area in front. + 30' Coralife, two bulbs, one actinic, one white. Standard fixture, not sure the lumens. Feeding is now, three times per week: + One cube of frozen krill mix, thawed in nuke oven, crushed into bits, strained, then gingerly dropped bit by bit into the display. <Careful feeding technique. I'd skip the microwave part, though. You don't need to do that, and it might even change the nutritional profile, for all we know.> + Pump off, then four drops of concentrated Zooplankton (Kent) mixed in cup and added in area of mushrooms. + Maybe 20 drops of Phyto food liquid from store (Kent again) dropped in vicinity of mushrooms / zoanthids. + Pump off for one hour. <Do be careful with these liquid foods. I have some reservations about non-living liquid foods, especially those that are not shipped/sold and stored in the refrigerator. They may degrade to the point of being simply pollution in a bottle. Study them and do consider living alternatives.> Periodic supplements: + Ten drops iodine once per week. + Chalk water from Germany (Kent) 'the best calcium supplement by far!' (could the directions for this thing be any more Teutonic?) -- added from clear liquid on top of mix in bucket at maybe 4 ounces per day. <Both are useful supplements, but they should be added according to your system's requirements. If testing dictates the need to add iodine, in particular, then go for it. Otherwise, there is a potential for inducing algal blooms, particularly in smaller systems. Your best "supplement", IMO, is a water change!> Parameters: + PH perhaps 8.2 / 8.3 + Specific gravity at 1.024 or so. + Ammonium = 0, Nitrite = 0; Nitrate < 5ppm. + Phosphate = 0. + Calcium at maybe 300 and rising. + KH at 12 drops -- is that around 180 on the scale (I do not recall)? Anyway, I think this means good buffering capacity. + Magnesium and Strontium unknown. <Parameters sound okay.> Lumination schedule: + Display: 12 hour cycle 11am to 11pm. + 'Fuge: was on opposing schedule 7pm to 7am, but I left it on all day and night yesterday thinking my IPSF residents had light-starvation jet lag from Hawaii. OK, finally now, I can raise some questions and concerns. Issue one: I have become slightly alarmed by some of what happened when I dropped by IPSF package into the 'fuge. Worms. Many of the worms from the mud and bristle kit quickly followed a flow into the pump area, made it through the pre-filter black microphone cover thing into the Mag 7, and became wiggling bait for Lenny and Squiggy and their bully overlord in the display. <Bummer...> The bristleworms seem to have arrived bleached and dead. No red hue apparent, and anything with bristles appears to be dead meat and settled on top the DSB. The spaghetti worms from the wonder mud mostly appear to have met the fish food end in the display. Those that remain seem disinterested in the 6' substrate, which I find bizarre. Could it be my DSB is too young and virgin to provide food for these guys? <Well, if their natural tendency is to burrow, they will, eventually. I'd give it a little more time to happen.> If so, should I buy 'Mama mia' worm kit from IPSF a little later down the line once the DSB is more compelling? DSB was topped off without about 1" established sand from the display, over which the IPSF mud was dropped. <This should work for now. If you think that you had some DOA's, do bring this to the attention of Gerald Heslinga (owner of IPSF). He is a great guy and will stand behind his products.> Tang Red and Tang Green. Beautiful stuff, but the red is making its way around and over the acrylic lined baffles in the 'fuge, where it collects on the pump pre-filter thing and makes it look like a red Christmas tree or a game of pickup sticks gone horribly awry. I fish it out with gloves on and put it back in the main area, but it will find its way back. What to do? I fear clogging the pump. <I'd buy one of those small straining colanders- like the kind you use for vegetables or rinsing rice. You can find small ones at some discount stores. You can place the Gracilaria (that's the species of macroalgae known as "Tang Heaven") in there. It likes a little motion- in fact, it likes to be tumbled, so you can place it where it will get some current, or you could even place an airstone in your "algae colander"!> The tang green looks like lime flavor fruit rollups. Is this Ulva stuff going to grow from this form? It seems like maybe I have part of a plant, hard to see any distinguishing features, reproductive organs on this stuff. <Hard to say, really.> Nutrients. Are my new 'fuge dwellers going to be happy with the nutrient input from so little livestock in the display? Do I need to give them more nutrients as they get settled in? <You'll be surprised what they find to eat in even the "cleanest" systems. However, if you are concerned, you could always provide some extra food for these creatures (carefully, of course).> I installed the 'fuge as a last ditch attempt to eradicate Cyanobacteria and banish it from my lexicon for a while. Now, I'm worried I might have set up a 'fuge that will starve, then I will be back to a Cyano problem. What sayeth the great Oracle of all things aquatic? <Well, no great oracle here, but I am a fish geek who has fought the nuisance algae battle many times over the years. I'd think about the possible causes of your nuisance algae problem. A big contributor to these outbreaks is excess nutrients caused by overfeeding or indiscriminate use of additives and liquid "foods". You sound like a very dedicated and careful hobbyist, but I'll bet that you could skip those additives with more frequent water changes, and I'll bet that you won't need to feed those liquid foods. Keep up your water quality monitoring, and good overall husbandry practices, such as aggressive protein skimming, and ,maybe run some activated carbon or Poly Filter media in your system on a regular basis. You might be surprised how quickly things turn. Other than those minor adjustments, you're doing fine. I often find it useful to remember the wonderful advice given by author John Tullock in his book, "Natural Reef Aquariums": Test, then tweak!" It holds true for almost any system...Don't add stuff to your tank if testing hasn't dictated its necessity. I'm sure that things are gonna be just fine! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> BGA and intro. to a site called WWM - 02/11/2007 That's great. I do have a Cyanobacteria question though. I had a red slime algae outbreak and treated the tank twice with ChemiClean. Which is harsh I think but what else do you do? <Mmm, all sorts of possibilities...> I am starting to get spots again on the rocks and sand. Should I just siphon and brush the rocks and sand because I am sure that is what killed my clam and coral beauty. Any suggestions? Thanks Donielle <Please start by reading here: http://wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm and the linked files above. RMF> Reef tank crash Recovery advice needed -
02/09/2007 Good afternoon/evening/morning WWM Crew (as
appropriate). I read the dailies daily , many thanks. <Welcome in
kind> I have a problem and have run out of ideas and places to
search for ideas. I have been searching and reading WWM since this
happened. I have a 15 imp. gal. reef tank which housed large colonies
of brown Zoanthids, two tiny colonies of two other types of Zoanthids,
some Proto Palythoa, <Yikes... am sure you're aware of how toxic
these Zoanthids can be...> a multi-branched Hammer coral, four small
Ricordea, a small colony of Green Star polyps and numerous Clove Polyps
dotted happy throughout the Zoanthids. <Uhh, am not so sure re their
happiness> All of these on live rock. The clean up crew were a Skunk
cleaner shrimp, a red hermit and a turbo snail all bossed by
a small 2" clown. I change about three gals. of water weekly using
Tropic Marin Reef crystals. Previous numbers were PH 8.2, ammonia 0,
Nitrites 0, Nitrates 0, Alk and Ca/Mg levels with good WWM advised
ranges. Temperature between 79F and 82F. Yesterday morning I found my
shrimp dead with a Amphipod (as opposed to Copepod) munching away and a
white film on the glass and the shrimp. <Mmm, if the animal were
already dead...> I did an immediate water change and spent most of
the morning and afternoon changing the water and siphoning the
1/2" crushed coral bed, getting the numbers of nitrite and nitrate
down and settling the clown, snail and crab up in a bare tank. Now I
have no nitrates or nitrites. PH is back in balance but the ammonia is
still sky high and I used AmmoLock to turn it into less harmful
ammonium (I think). <... not really a good idea> Level is still
4.0 with API test kit. I have had massive die-off of Amphipods and even
the bristleworms are looking stressed. I have a piece of PolyFilter
running in an additional filter which I think sucked the remaining
nitrites out after the water changes got rid of the nitrates along with
some of the new detritus. I am also running a small airstone from
another tank. The hammer coral is looking OK, the Zoas have the odd
button out, there are a few (as opposed to hundreds, 1/4-3/8"
long) of dead pods around, the cloves are looking sad and sulky, there
are bits of moving worm around but many of the filter feeding worms are
going about their business. <A cascade effect... the Clavulariids
and Zoas are poisoning all here> I am in the UK so BioSpira is not
an option, <Do call TMC a call here...> sadly. What would be the
best way forward now in your opinion? <Massive consecutive water
changes, the assiduous use of activated carbon> If I keep doing
water changes and running the poly filter mat am I right in saying the
tank will not cycle? <Mmm, no, it will in time... will be a bit
subtended though... but segue into nitrification> How long will
things take to settle and when is it likely I can put the crew back in
situ? Thanks -Alison <When all looks, is better behaviorally.
Bob Fenner> Three quick questions, Missing Some Basic Concepts... water changes, fdg. lg. brown polyps, excessive vacuuming of substrate? 2/5/07 <Greetings, Mich here.> I have three questions. <I have three answers.> 1) I have 120 gallon tank that I top off with about 7 gallons of water a week. I'm pre-mixing the water for the top off with my marine reef mix. If I'm topping off with 7 gallons a week, do I still need to do water changes weekly as well? <I just want to make sure I understand. Are you topping off with premixed salt water? You cannot do this unless of course you're trying to replicate the Dead Sea. You are replacing evaporated fresh water with salt water, thus increasing your salinity with every addition. Please correct me if this is not what you are doing.> 2) Silly question -- I have a few colonies of large brown polyps. When I target feed them do I need to make sure all of the polyps in the colony get some food, or is it OK for only a few of them to get some food? <Typically, these do not require target feeding of any kind.> 3) I'm in the process of saving money for an ro/di because I'm having trouble with brown algae on my aragonite substrate. Until then, I have been vacuuming the substrate every 3 days or so. Am I doing harm by vacuuming too much? <I would stop feeding the polyps, likely contributing to your algae problem and is not necessary. Try not to spread the algae while vacuuming.> BTW -- great site, I read before bed almost religiously. Learning a lot but didn't seem to find anything on these questions I have. <Please consider investing in a book titled "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Robert M. Fenner. I think it will lead you to a better understanding of what is occurring in your tank.> Thanks <Welcome. -Mich> Two Questions... re... reef set-up... can. filtr., top-off water prep. 1/27/07 Hello, <Hey Joe, JustinN with you today.> First and foremost I would like to thank you for all the resources you provide. <Thank you for this.> I bought and read Bob's book and am constantly looking through these pages while I slowly put together my 65g FOWLR. <Ah, yes, is quite an excellent book... hard to put down!> I have a couple of questions that are a little confusing to me and would like to have your point of view or answer: <Alright, I'll give it a go> 1) I will be using roughly 75 pounds of LR, a Remora Pro with Mag 3 skimmer (which I gather from many sources is excellent), and I also bought a canister filter (Eheim Classic 2215). The last point is where I am a little confused. My LFS tells me that I could either use a few blue coarse filter pads, with the white fine pad, and the carbon pad, or the second option would be to run it on empty just for the extra movement (Please note that I will be using a Maxi-Jet 1200 for extra movement as well). Based on your understanding and the setting that I have, would it make sense to run it on empty instead of using the media? If I use the media are there types I should not be putting? If I run it on empty, what potential problems could arise and should I be looking for? <I don't think you'll see any detrimental effects from running this canister filter empty, but I don't think the biological media is really necessary. I would utilize this for chemical media, such as a bag of ChemiPure or activated carbon, whatever your choice here may be. When the chemical filtrant is not needed, you could run the canister empty with no deleterious effects.> 2) I will follow the books advice and do weekly water changes and at the same time, prepare the water in a trash can to age in my garage for a week with a heater and a pump to use the following week. I am a little uncertain about how the freshwater top-offs should work. I think I understand that the best way is to use our judgment and replace the water as we see necessary (a couple of times a week), but how to do it is the question mark for me. Does top-off water need to be aged? If so, how long and how (airstone, small powerhead...)? If you could just briefly explain how I could prepare the top-off water or point me to the right link I would greatly appreciate it. <You've pretty much got it, dead on already. The freshwater should be aerated beforehand, to help drive out excess CO2 levels and stabilize the water's pH readings. As you suspect, the top off is simply to refill the excess that has evaporated; that is, wherever your running level of water was to begin with, will be where you refill to. This is to help keep the salinity stable, without fluctuations. Either an airstone or powerhead will be more than sufficient here.> I'm a very enthusiastic newbie and want to make sure that I get it right, so forgive me if these seem like "easy" or "obvious" questions. <Not at all, my friend. They are refinements of specific situations, which shows signs of you reading and investigating answers on your own. The 'easy' questions that that could be considered troublesome, for lack of a better term, are those that come to us with absolutely no research behind them, and furthermore, that respond back to us asking the same question again, without really reading our responses.> Thank you very much and please keep up the good work!! Joe <Thank you for the kind words, Joe. Hope I've helped you here! -JustinN>
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