FAQs on Reef Set-Up 4 Related Articles: Reef Systems, Reef Set-Up, Being Conscientious Save money and the reefs By Jennifer Smith, Technology: Putting on the Brakes:  How much is too much? By Tommy Dornhoffer, Refugiums, Reef Filtration, Marine System Plumbing, Marine Aquarium Set-Up, Fish-Only Marine Set-up, FOWLR/Fish and Invertebrate Systems, Coldwater Systems, Small Systems, Large Systems, Refugiums, Marine Biotope, Marine Landscaping, Fishwatcher's Guides,  Related FAQs: Reef Set-Up 1, Reef Set-Up 2, Reef Set-Up 3, Reef Set-Up 5, Reef Set-Up 6, Reef Set-Up 7, Reef Set-Up 8, Reef Set-Up 9, Reef Set-Up 10, Reef Set-Up 11, Reef Set-Up 13, Reef Set-Up 14, Reef Set-Up 15, & Reef Tanks, Reef Lighting,  Reef Lighting 2,  Reef Filtration, & Reef Livestocking,  Reef Livestocking 2, Reef Feeding, Reef Disease, Reef Maintenance, Marine System Plumbing,  Marine Aquarium Set-Up,  Live Rock, Live Sand, Fish-Only Marine Set-ups, FOWLR/Fish and Invertebrate Systems, Coldwater Systems, Small Systems, Large Systems,  Reef Maintenance,  Biotopic presentations,  Algal Filtration in General, Mud Filtration 1,

A beauty eh?

Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Light question 3/19/04 Good Morning crew! <morning> I have three questions that I hope you can help me with. I am setting up a small reef tank.  The tank is 10 gallons.  I have two 32w Power Compact lights and one 18w normal fluor. about 8 watts per gallon. (Q1)--Which setup of bulb color should I use?  (2-10,000K pc and 1-actinic nf) or (1-10,000K pc and 1-actinic pc and 1-10,000K nf) or other? <you should use the one that suits your invertebrates best. Please do not make the mistake of picking your light before you pick your invertebrates! Make a species list first, whittle out the incompatible ones... know that many do not survive together under standardized lighting schemes (low light mushrooms with shallow water SPS corals, for example). Then select your lights> (Q2)--I plan to use 3" of superfine sand (enough for denitrification in 10 gallon?) <yes... likely so, although it is the bare minimum. 4-6" would be much better> I plan to keep small SPS frags and maybe a small clam or two.  The tank will be filtered, skimmed, heated, and have a small powerhead behind the 10-15 lbs of live rock. <ahhh... in that case... opt for 6500-10k K lights... the former if you want better growth> (Q3)--Is this lighting sufficient for clams (on the sand about 10" from  lights) and SPS (on sand and rock from 10" to about 4" from light) <yes> I will keep alk @ 4-6 meq/L...Ca @ 400-420...PH @ 8.3...S.G. @ 1.0245...NH4/3, NO2, PO4 @ 0...NO3 as low as possible <be careful of maintaining ALK and CA high at the same time. Its not necessary... but even dangerous perhaps (precips)> Sorry one more question: When I set up this tank should I leave the lights off for a week or two with the rock, sand, filter and skimmer all in and going and no coral or fish?   <very helpful. Some hardcore reefers do this for months and get even better starts> Will this help coralline to grow?   <not as much as stable bio-mineral levels in general (water changes and dosing)> Thanks in advance and for all recent help.  The site is really a big help and great job with all the info you have to offer! <kindly, Anthony>

Mistakes, Or Innovations? Hello everyone, I love the info. you all have been providing, it has saved me from making mistakes, thanks. <We're very happy to be of help to you! Scott F. at the keyboard today> I have been reading DSB FAQ's for the last two days and I now have a couple of Q's of my own. I think I should have visited your site sooner in regards to this subject. I don't know why I didn't, brain fart :). Hopefully it will be less flatulent in the future:). <I won't touch that one...I could. But I won't! > Anyways, I bought and placed Carib Sea Aragonite ( I think it was Sea Floor Special) in my new 125 gal. corner show tank. It didn't have the particle size on the bag any where but it looked to be no more than 1mm in size. I know it isn't sugar fine or oolitic. It does have many other smaller sized particles in it ranging from what looks to be sugar fine all the way up to 1mm. I was under the understanding that a range in sand size (from sugar size to 1mm) was good to have because the different critters that will eventually be in their need different sizes. Each species needing a particular size in order to survive. So if there is a range in sand size the DSB will be able to support a large diversity of species. True? <I believe that it will> Then I read, after placing this sand in to the tank, the DSB FAQ's on this web site and sugar fine seems to be the size that best be suited for a DSB and particle sizes shouldn't be mixed. <Well, there is a lot of thought and controversy on this matter. Yes, an all oolithic sugar-fine aragonite is ideal, but mixing grades of smaller-grain sands is also useful, IMO. I've done this in deep sand beds before with great results. However, you don't want to mix grades that are too dissimilar, as this can result in lots of compaction and channeling, potentially reducing the efficiency of the bed. Finer grades are useful for assisting with buffering and releasing bio-minerals into the water.> I had also added live sand samples to help seed my current sand bed from reputable LFS's. Since my sand bed is already mixed should I go ahead and fill it with the same material I have started with or should I fill the remaining 2" ( I'm going for a 5" DSB) with sugar fine sand to increase its numbers in the DSB? <I'd continue with the same material at this point.> Next Q. I know that certain sand sifters eat DSB critters, I understand why this is bad and I'm not going to use them, but I have also herd that when sand sifters are sifting they are also destroying the tubes/burrows, that these DSB animals make. In doing so, they are restricting good water flow through the DSB that aids in the denitrification process and filtration and that this destruction is not a good thing. The DSB should be left undisturbed by all except for the DSB animals and only they should do the sifting. Yes, No? <I would say an unqualified yes. I believe that you don't want animals that are too aggressive in their sandbed movements. Even in regular maintenance, the hobbyist should not disturb anything but the top layer of sand, IMO> My 125 gal came with two wet/dry filters attached in the overflow box. They are filled with bio balls, should I replace these all together and put carbon filter pads in their place? My new tank has only been running for 4 or 5 days. <Personally, I'd dump the bioballs altogether, and let the sand bed and live rock do the "filtering" in your tank> My sump is a plastic barrel cut in 1/2 and holds 40 gal. The reason for its addition was because we could not get the pump to stop leaking at the threaded pipe attachments. We were going to add a sump any way. We needed something that would keep the leak contained and it was the best option from what we had to choose from. <A great improve move, IMO!> I know it isn't the most desirable shape but it's what we have to work with for the time being. I wanted to put a DSB made up of sugar fine sand in the sump. I  was thinking of attaching PVC to the inlet hose and have the PVC go all of the way around the inside of the barrel with little holes in it pointed towards the sand. Would this diffuse the water enough so that it wouldn't destroy the DSB? <It probably will. I'm afraid that you'll have to experiment with this. You can always dial down the flow if too disruptive> Would it provide enough current to prevent dead spots or any other harmful scenarios? If this is a good idea, should I place the pvc on top of the sand or just enough above it for adequate (non-destructive) circulation? <I think it will work. I'd place the return just above for maximum efficiency> Almost done:) I have seen some F/O and reef tanks with a little macro algae purposefully planted in there. Some looked like grass the other was green and broad leafed. It looked really nice but should it be done? Or, should all algae's be kept in the fuge? <Your call. As long as you can manage the growth of the macroalgae, and as long as they don't overrun other sessile life forms, there is no reason not to include macroalgae in the display.> Last one, I have rinsed my sand with tap water, I had no other type to use, will the sand in my tank now be leaching tap water chemicals in to my tank? <I suppose that it's possible, but I wouldn't lose sleep over this> I also have some LR in a 50 gal soon to be F/O that had been setting in fresh water from the tap for 2 mo. It was dead at the time and bleached. I don't know why I didn't think of this before, duh, but are they now leaching these tap elements back in to my salt tank? <Again, probably not a problem> There is a lot of emerald green micro algae on them, the snails aren't eating it. I am going to add a fuge in to the system with macro algae, will this eventually remedy the problem, if there is one, with the element leaching. Or will the micro algae growing on it now use up these elements? <Well, it will grow as long as there is "fuel" to use for it's growth.> Sorry, I need to buy Phos., ALK., and Calcium test so I can't tell now if that is what is happening. Ammonia:0, Nitrate:0, Nitrite:0, PH: 8.3, Specific gravity: 1.023, temp. 78-80F DSB 5". Or should I just remove these pieces of LR, they are coloring up nicely now, red, purple, lots of green. <I'd leave it in there at this point> Ok I'm done, so are my hands. Thank you for your time. Shauna <My pleasure, Shauna. Feel free to write any time if you have more questions. Regards, Scott F>

New tank questions - 3/19/04 Hello to whom it may be answering: <Paul here in the hizouse!!!> I have a 29 gallon tank, with about 3 inches of "live sand" which is just a bad of sand with some extra stuff. <???>  Not live but you get the idea. <I think. It will be live once your live rock gets to it. I would add another inch though> I have about 15 pounds of live rock at the moment, <A little more would be useful> planning to get more in the future. <Excellent> The tank has been cycling for almost two weeks. <Still not ready> Haven't noticed many spikes but my Ammonia is 0 to .25, <Wait until this goes down> nitrite is 0, nitrate is definitely present, but not that much. <a by product of nitrifying bacteria will likely always be present> cant remember the exact reading, sorry. Anyway, I have a couple questions and would appreciate your opinion. <OK> A pretty respectable saltwater fish store only near me said I could add snails and shrimp at any time during the cycling process. <Nope. Not respectable with this advice> I have read your web site and see you are very against doing this. <Very against adding fish but ammonia and nitrite will kill anything if there is too much> I can see how it affects fish, but snails and shrimp... does it really affect them as bad? <Usually worse> Also I have an emperor 330 power filter with bio wheel and a couple of power heads moving the water around well. Do I really need a skimmer? <Absolutely. Read about skimmers on our site, mate. We have lots of opinions on this already available to you> Or can I make the power filter work and still have a nice reef tank? <You could likely have a reef setup but it will take a lot of work by you> Last question is, when I got my rock, it had a bunch of reddish growths on it and they haven't died or grown at all in the past few weeks. <Could be anything by that description> I assumed these would grow, maybe I'm just not waiting long enough? <possible but your description doesn't help me to identify what we are talking about. Wait it out. They may grow> That's my guess. Patience is the key to everything saltwater, so I hear <Absolutely!!! It is the hobby of patience and beauty> :) Its just not easy. <Well, you will learn either way> Thanks for putting up with the massive email. <No worries ~Paul> Adam Newbie Reef question Hi,<Howdy!> I would like to setup a 60 gallon semi-reef tank (mushrooms, colt coral, hammers, and zoos).  I would like to stay away from an internal overflow with a  sump.  What do you recommend if any hang-on type setup.  <I would go with a decent amount of live rock and a skimmer, that is how I run my reef and it works great.  I also run carbon a couple times a month.  A good skimmer is the remora pro by Aqua-C.>I also plan on keeping approx 3 percula clowns, 4 green Chromis, and one fairy wrasse.  I will have also have 60lbs of live rock.  My lighting will be a 4x65 PC.  I do not plan on expanding my tank any further or getting into the more delicate corals such as anemones.<Sounds great!> Thanks for you service,  it is great to have such a great resource available.<Thank you for writing! Cody>

Evolving Reef Tank! Hi crew, <Hi there! Scott F. here today!> Thanks for helping to keep me in this wonderful hobby. I was about to quit after nearly 30 years keeping marines (mainly fish only) as I thought I knew it all. Now I have decided to turn my F0 tank into a fish/reef tank, I realize how far behind we are in this hobby in the UK. <Well, I'd beg to differ! In fact, one of your fellow countrymen, David Saxby of London, owns what is often referred to as one of the best reef aquariums in the world! Don't overlook the "hometown talent" in the UK!> I  am trying to read up on everything to do with inverts and the hobby in general, boy, have I learned a lot from your site! and have I got a lot to learn! <Glad you've found the site to be useful! We've certainly enjoyed bringing it to you...And we each learn more every day! That's one of the best things about this hobby!> I would love to fire some questions at you (again) but I guess I must give you a rundown on my setup first. 180g tank 20g sump (tank double drilled with two 1 1/2" holes at each end with pipes to surface to skim from top) Both leading to trickle filters with bioballs. One goes to a skimmer first, a Turboflotor 1000 and then to bioballs) One goes straight into bioballs, (both have prefilters). Also have a Berlin skimmer in sump driven by  Eheim 1060 which doesn't seem to produce much skimmate at all. <Nonetheless, I think having two skimmers is a great idea!> Two canister filters (which I hate) one has nitrate reducing granules (haha) one has chemical, (carbon & Rowaphos) filtration. The chemical one goes through UV (55watt) back to tank. Tank has been running for 5 years with no real problems. I have started to do (further) tests on water quality, as I wish to turn this into a reef tank and move the fish into another tank. SG = 1022  Ph 8.2 Temp = 80F Ammonia = 0     Nitrite = 0   Nitrate = 40ppm <lose the Bioballs> Alk = 4.23       DKH 11.8  Calcium 270 !......... I am trying to raise my calcium by mixing one teaspoon of Kalkwasser in a bottle of water and letting the sediment form on the bottom for a day. Then I add this mixture to my top up water (minus sediment) which is being added at the rate of 3 drops per second to my sump. This is about the rate of evaporation at the moment. (Summer is a different story altogether) <A sort of "Berlin" technique, which works. You should also check out Anthony Calfo's "Kalk slurry" concept, as outlined in his must-have "Book of Coral Propagation"...It works great!> And now for some questions. I hope you will excuse me, I have many! <No problem!> 1) I am convinced of the benefits of ozone but can I find an outlet in the UK that stocks one??..... No way !!!..... Just for the record I am trying to get the Sander Certizon 200 model. I'm not sure if you're familiar with this or not but all I keep being told by marine outlets in this country is that "ozone went out in the 70's, no-one uses it any more" and "we have stocked those for donkey's years" etc, etc. Any way to cut a long search short I found somewhere that can get me one but I have this feeling that we get ripped off in the UK something rotten!...........Price for the Sander 200 model.....?279...Which comes out around $420 Dollars I believe!!!.....UK cost shock? indeed it is! <Well, the higher-end units, such as Sander, tend to be more expensive in the US, as well. If you're inclined to use ozone, I agree that you should purchase one of the Sander units!> Any way, now the first question at last.  I will connect the ozone to my Turboflotor 1000 (sump mounted). Do I need an air pump or will the venturi drawer enough air in without one? <You may have to find that out through trial and error, unfortunately> Also do I need an air drier?  The relative humidity averages 55% here. <I'd use an air drier, and utilize ozone-proof tubing.> 2) Substrate  I will be adding a refugium with a live DSB (5").........Should I remove my 1-2 inches of mixed size coral sand in my display tank and just add a sprinkling of live sand for aesthetics? <Personally, I'd do exactly what you're contemplating if you're going to use a "remote" DSB> Also whilst on this subject, I have seen a product from FLA which is labeled as live sand and in sealed in plastic bags usually 5k bags...Have you heard of this and is this good enough to use as my DSB? (bearing in mind I have just had an outbreak of whitespot and have lost one Blue Tang and a Gramma loreto.   <Personally, I don't use these products, as I am skeptical of the true density of beneficial bacteria (is it worth the extra cost?). There are absolutely no beneficial infauna (sand-dwelling creatures) in these "live" sand products. Personally, I'd "kick start" my system with some live sand from an established healthy tank> My Platax orbicularis is now in QT) 3) The Batfish which had whitespot has now been clear for 2 weeks in QT.  There are no signs of any further out breaks in the display where resides a Holacanthus ciliaris, Zebrasoma flavescens, Flameback African Angel and a Lime Green Wrasse. How long should I leave the Batfish in QT ? And can I assume the display is clear (of ich) when a month has gone by?  I made the stupid mistake of putting a piece of live rock straight in my display tank! From now on I will quarantine EVERYTHING ! EVERYTHING ! EVERYTHING ! <I'd give the fish and tank a month or so before getting everyone back in there, just to be on the safe side. And I am sure that you will benefit greatly from the quarantine process!> 4)  And my MAIN question. I wish to increase the turnover in my tank and get rid of the four power heads if possible. I have an old AMiracle overflow unit which would also help skimming from the surface. Would it be possible just to add this and another Eheim 1060 pump to the sump for the return? (or am I missing something?.........Please do not say "brain cells" !) <Sure, your idea would work. A better thought might be to invest in a pair of Tunze "Turbelle" external powerheads, or even the new (but internal) Tunze "Stream" pumps, which are amazing! External pumps are a great way to add additional circulation without imparting excessive heat, or having to make major holes or other renovations to the tank itself. and, they are usually very electrically efficient!> I really appreciate the help you have given me in the past few weeks.  I have learnt more in those weeks than I have in the last 20 years. Cheers Crew Simon <It's our pleasure, Simon! Feel free to call on us any time as your system evolves! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Eheim's alright by me 2/18/04 Sorry for the confusion, I was just wondering if it was ok to use an Eheim canister in a reef tank. <sure... like HOB Magnums and various other "power" filters, they have their place and advantages (and disadvantages). Be sure to service it frequently to minimize nitrate production> Can you tell me what company makes "sugar based"  calcium? Seachem reef advantage calcium is not? <it is indeed Seachem's "Reef Calcium"> Can you give me any help on my questions (below) about lowering nitrate and lessening the amount of algae I have in my tank? <very easy my freund... its all about nutrient control: aggressive protein skimming (tuning a good skimmer to get daily or near cupful daily skimmate production.. moist skimmers are not properly installed to do this if even worthy brands - be sure to feed raw overflow water only to a skimmer or is a sump model, have it catch raw water in a skimmer box/section... never in the open sump)... and do regular partial water changes (10-20%weekly minimum)> Sorry about all the questions, just cant seem to get my tank like the tanks I see and read about on the internet and in my LFS (Absolutely Fish in Clifton, NJ) <do check out the archives on skimmers here at WetWebMedia.Com... very extensive. Best of luck! Anthony>

Change from FO to reef & fish setup Hi there, I am sorry to bother you with such mundane things <no need for apologizes, we are here to help!> but I would like to give a rundown on the setup I have and how best to achieve my goal of a more reef like tank. 72"x24"x24" Bottom drilled with two (water skimmed from the top) 1 1/2" holes to a 30 gallon sump. Two trickle towers one with reef 500 from Aqua-Medic. One home made Nitrate factory Two Skimmers (Berlin and Turboflotor 1000) One Lifeguard 600 fluidized bed filter Two canister filters one for biological filtration one for chemical i.e. carbon, ROWAphos, leading to a 55watt UV before returning to the tank. <Sounds like quite the set-up you have there!> Stocked with:- One 9 inch tall Orbiculate Batfish (yup, I know he has to go) <Sadly you are right, it's a shame because they are very impressive fish when offered a large enough tank.> One 4 inch Queen Angel I wish to keep this. Fireball Angel Yellow Tang Royal Gramma 4 inch Regal Tang Lime green wrasse 3inch. <Very nice fish, they should make a switch to a Reef setup without to much difficulty. The one fish that I'm concerned about is the Lime Green (Thalassoma lutescens). This fish will eat many invertebrates (snails, shrimp, etc...).  And is not really considered a reef safe fish.  I'm not sure if it would pick on the corals themselves, but I wouldn't want to take the chance.  I recently found a nice "Reef Safe" Wrasse list.  ( http://www.themarinecenter.com/wrassereef.htm) it seems to offer info on the wrasses as well.  The Fireball (Centropyge) are quite nice. Most of these fish's natural diet consists mainly of algae, and in the aquarium the fish are happy grazers, although their diet should also be supplemented with frozen or live foods to give sufficient diversity and quantity. For instance, with the Fireball, because of their wide dietary tastes, Dwarf Angel Fish can be kept confidently with invertebrates and, as they remain relatively small, are the ideal fish for reef tanks.> I only have about 6lb of LR at present, but which filters should I get rid of first and what is the best way to go about this change. <You will definitely need more LR, and once you get rid of the bat fish you will have fish that will enjoy the added rock.  Most of the fish you have love investigating caves and rock work so they will become much more happy with the added LR.  As for filters they all seem quite nice, and none really need to be removed for this tank. though make sure that you don't use a UV sterilizer on the returning water.  Though used quite often on FO tanks, they are not to be used on Reef tanks.  Be sure to look over WetWebMedia.Com for there Reef Aquarium filtration articles.> My goal is to have the fish as above minus Batfish, lots of live rock and a few hardy star polyps and leather corals. <Sound like a nice plan which should work quite well.> Lighting is Two 150 watt halides and two 40 watt actinics. <Should work quite well for a reef tank!> I know this is a tall order but can you point me in the right direction? <Best direction I can point you at is for you to think about purchasing a few choice books.  I suggest you start with "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Bob Fenner.  It's a phenomenal starting point for anyone interested.> Thanks very much in advance........Wonderful site! Simon UK <Thank you for the checking out our site.  There is also a Forum on WetWebMedia.Com that you can visit that will allow you to pick the brains of many knowledgeable people in the hobby.  Good luck. -Magnus>
Re: Going from FO to Reef + fish Thanks for  the reply, very helpful indeed. <I'm glad we could be of assistance.> I have read the "Conscientious Marine Aquarist" and I recommend this book to everyone, either new in the hobby or old hand. <It's a handy book, you can't imagine how many times I have looked it over.> Would still like to throw a few more questions at you. First of all with my proposed setup, is it ok to keep the Queen Angel? <A Queen Angel (Holacanthus ciliaris) is Not reef safe, will pick on all corals, feather dusters, and clam mantles. Not to mention they get about 17 inches long.  They do best in large FOWLR aquariums that have lots of live rock, though enough open space for them to swim.> I know it may cost me some in live rock but if this is all, then fine just as long as said Angel will not destroy the whole lot. Only time will tell I guess? <Sadly it doesn't take to much time for a Queen to make her rounds in someone's tank.> 2: Should I keep the trickle towers with the bioballs or can I get rid of these with the addition of live rock? <The towers with bioballs simply add another surface for the beneficial bacteria to colonize.  With the added rock you don't necessarily need them.  It's all up to what you prefer I know many people that add things like this to increase the filtration of their tank.> 3: Where do I put the 55 Watt UV ? (please don't say the trash can (rubbish bin to us in the UK :-) as I just bought a new bulb) or should I just forget about it and use the ozonizer instead? <The problem is that you don't want to be using UV sterilizers on reef systems, corals and many other reef inhabitants are filter feeders. And the sterilization of the water will only starve them.  The reason that UV sterilizers are used on FO tanks is that it kills all bacteria/free floating microfauna.  And the thought is that it's better to have no free swimming creatures than have some that are possibly bad. 4: I do plan to add a sander 200 ozonizer. should I put this on the skimmer that works least well (the Berlin) or the Turboflotor which already pulls out one cup per day?...Oh bye the way the skimmate I collect has always been dark green. Is this normal? <Dark green to brown is typical.  If you choose to use the ozonizer then it would be best to have it on the better functioning skimmer since Ozone (O3)should never be allowed to enter into the aquarium water because it will kill everything that comes into contact with it. Also it will attack rubber so only use plastic airlines. If possible the ozone should be removed from the room or neutralized by filtering it through carbon. It can cause headaches and nausea if allowed to stay in the room. Because of this its not as popular as it used to be> 5: Also I would like to add a refugium with live sand/rock/Caulerpa/etc to keep nitrates down. Just in very basic terms how would I go about this? would I utilize the sump I already have? or if not, how would I balance the water levels using two "sumps" <You can use the sump you already have, just add the sand/rock/Caulerpa to it.  I suggest you look at the plumbing articles here on WetWebMedia to learn more about how to do it.  Also there are many interesting articles I found here: http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/sumpprojectsdiy > 6: One last thing, not a question really but a lesson for budding aquarists out there like me learning the hard way. Three days ago I put ?68 that's about $90 of lovely live rock, brimming with mushroom polyps and star corals in my tank. Looked pretty good it did too!  Today I have a few lumps of green hairy rocks and one very, very plump batfish !! ...... Ah well, that'll teach me won't it ? <You might have noticed a slightly fatter queen angel as well!  hehe.  That's why we always say "Research, research research!!!"> Cheers Simon <Good luck. -Magnus>

The "Ultimate" Small Reef Tank? Great site, great info, however maybe too much info to digest by the common person. <Hey- we're all common people, so we can relate! Scott F. with you today> For over a year I've read your threads and by now I have forgot what I learned a year ago.  Here's the challenge: Design the ideal (in your opinions) 55 gal. reef aquarium.  The system will not be a home for the most demanding high light loving corals. Let's say medium to medium high light requirements.  In other words a system that the majority of your readers could afford to put together and that would provide the highest quality environment for the inhabitants.  Go for it.  Give the ideal and let us decide where we have to cut the corners. Thanks for a very informative site. Bert Koelsch <Okay, Bert- break out the checkbook! Remember, what I will propose is just my opinion. If you ask 10 different reefers, you'll get 10 different answers, so take mine with a grain of salt, okay? I'd start by having the tank constructed with a full length overflow (like Anthony outlines in his "Book of Coral Propagation"), leading to about a 25-30 gallon sump, where you'd locate a quality protein skimmer (either a Euroreef or an Aqua C model), some Poly Filter pads, activated carbon, or other chemical filtration media. If budget permits, you could employ a good calcium reactor, like a Knop or Korallin. However, in a tank this small, you could get by with careful additions of Kalkwasser and two-part additives, if you test the water regularly. If you have room, I'd recommend a small refugium, or you could partition part of the sump to serve in this capacity. You could return the water via a manifold around the perimeter of the tank, or you could plumb the return to oscillating units, such as Sea Swirls, or you could use a SCWD for random water movement. Alternatively, you could employ external Powerheads, like Tunze Turbelles or Geminis, for supplemental water movement. Lighting would be a couple of good 150 watt HQI metal halide pendants, such as the Sunlight Supply Reef Optix III's. You could use 150w Iwasaki "50,000k" bulbs (actually closer to a 14,000k-15,000k), and no fluorescent supplementation would be required, IMO. Man, I could go on and on into limitless other details, but that takes all of the fun out of process. I think you get the general concept that I'd use: Good water volume, exceptional nutrient export mechanisms and natural food production capability, potentially strong (but adjustable) chaotic water movement, and high intensity lighting (that still is aesthetically pleasing). All this stuff is still very simple, by modern reef standards. That's my vision...Obviously, you can be successful without all of my specific recommendations, but the concepts are all useful, IMO. Hope this helps! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Lighting questions for a reef - 2/1/04 Hellooo there whoever this may concern, <Heylo> I'd like to start off by saying thanks for all the help I've written you guys before. <No worries. Be sure to support our endeavours whenever and wherever you can>  I have a new question that I can't seem to find any concrete answers on. <Let's see what we can do>  As of right now I have a 75g tall tank that has 3 three foot VHO's in it. <OK. Size doesn't matter....wait>  I'm looking to upgrade to a 175w halide retrofit kit into my canopy.  My question is what light combinations could I run? <Well, you tell me. It depends on what you plan to keep, your budget, and space in your canopy (and more specifically, how you deal with the heat)>  Specifically what color temperature combos work best between halides and VHO's. <oh, 6500 and 10000 are usually where people get beneficial spectrum and good visual aesthetics>  I'd assume it depends on what you're trying to grow. <Are reading as I'm typing??>  I'm ultimately looking to grow many varieties of xenia, zoanthids, mushrooms, and SPS corals (Acropora mainly). <You'll need a much higher light intensity. More like one you might get from a pair of 400W halides. Remember that you have a 75 tall. See here for more information on lighting: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm It's all in the articles and the links> From what I've heard most of these corals are fairly light dependent the exception of the mushrooms which will be placed low in the tank. <Yes indeed>  With those corals in mind what Temp halide would you recommend. <It isn't just the Kelvin output of the bulb, my friend. PAR saturation and intensity is the order of the day, and you will need plenty in a 75 tall. Please read through the lighting articles for more information. No need to re-invent the wheel> I love the look of 20k's with blue actinics from the VHO's but I'm afraid that might be too much blue. <The actinic means little in the scope of reef building. It is really more for human aesthetics and not for coral building per se. We, at the Monterey Bay Aquarium, as well as the many personal tanks I own and help with, don't even use actinic light at all.>  Any suggestions on color temp and combos of lights would be GREAT. <Two 400w or one 250 and one 400 with 6500 and 10000k would look cool and be beneficial in growing coral, if I had to be forced to answer> Like I said you guys have helped me before and I'd greatly appreciate the help again.<Well, we appreciate your being part of it all> Your work is invaluable! Chris aka Fishtank <Well, thanks for the kind words and be sure to support our site!!! ~Paul>

Converting FO to Reef 1/19/03 Thanks for the advice!  What if I would remove all the filer media from the HO filter and use it like a sump.  For adding supplements, or chemical filer bags etc...? <Not a bad idea!> I am also upgrading the skimmer to the CPR BakPak 2.  I think that will work batter and have a higher flow rate than my Prizm.  I was going to keep doing water changes to reduce the NO3 and I was considering a nitrate reducer like D*nitrate. <Water changes are always good, but I would avoid chemical nitrate reducers.  The sand will do the job just fine.> What kind of sand do you think I should use?  Live sand? or should I just get some natural ocean sand from the LFS?  Maybe a bit of both mixed together? <The best bet is either "sugar fine" sand for at least a good portion of the mix.  Live sand only needs to be used in small quantities to "seed" the rest of the sand.  ESV and CaribSea sell "sugar fine" sand (sometimes called oolitic), or Southdown or yard right brand play sands are also calcium carbonate based (beware of silica based play sand).> Also,  how much water do you recommend I change every week?  5%? 10%.  Should I siphon the substrate each time or just pull out the water?  I really appreciate your help.  I have learned an incredible amount from this forum.  There is no way I would even be doing this without it.  Thanks BP <I prefer to do larger water changes monthly.  Mathematically, it works out that you reduce pollutants more effectively and it is less work.  In any case, 20% monthly is a good starting point.  You can go up or down from there based on your specific  conditions.  Best Regards!  Adam>

- Reef Lighting - Hello Bob, <Not Bob today, but JasonC... greetings.> I have a 55 gal reef tank/20 gal refugium with 4 40w standard florescence and 2 55w compact florescence lights.  50/50  and actinic bulbs (URI and custom Sealife).  I want to switch over to metal halide two 10,000k or 14,000k 175w (Blueline e-ballast) and two 40w actinic florescence.  Will that be too much light? <Not really, but you will want to bring this change in lighting in slowly... more to read about this here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm > I was thinking about rebuilding my canopy and making it 8 inches instead of the 4 inches that it is right now and keep my two 4 inch fans.  I also keep my glass on for safety reasons. The tank is filled 3/4 of the way up with live rock in the back.  I have at the top Green and yellow Goniopora, pulsing xenia (red sea), green star polyp coral, yellow polyp coral, finger leather, and a finger toadstool.  In the middle I have cabbage coral, glove polyp, pagoda coral (cup), green and purple mushrooms, Ricordea mushrooms, colt coral, two toadstools, and green finger leather.  At the bottom I have snake coral, green and brown button polyps, red mushrooms, and a Sebae or long tentacle anemone. I want to get into some more LPS corals and then move into SPS corals without sacrificing my existing corals with bleaching from the new light. <Do be careful with this mix... most all corals are chemical warriors, and with a tank of this size, you are going to have some fall-out if you pack it with corals.> Also if I could switch over to the new lighting can you give me some help on how to switch over without hurting the corals. (acclimating with the new light) <Read that article.> Also what bulbs should I go with (company names and Kelvin ratings) (long skinny bulbs or the fat mushroom shaped bulbs) note: I am going to run 2 48" 40w actinics (URI) <Do believe that bulb choice has more to do with what your eye prefers than anything else. Personally, I'm really fond of the light provided by the Aqualine 10k bulbs.> Cheers, Kris <Cheers, J -- >

Converting FO to reef Greetings, I am about to convert my Fish only tank to a reef tank.  (Finally) <Hi Brian!  Congrats!> Here is my setup: 40Long,prizm skimmer up to 100gal, Tetratec hang on filter, NO 40watt crapper bulb. I use crushed coral substrate and I have only about 10lbs of live rock.  I have 2 oscillating powerheads that move about 200gal/hr.  Here is what I am thinking of converting to prior to adding corals:  260W Power compact (Coralife 2 10K white, 2 actinic blue) Adding much more live rock. <With good quality rock, there should be no reason to go over 1lb per gallon, unless you want it for aesthetic reasons.  It sounds like you will have enough current for most corals.  Your lighting plan should also be plenty for anything you want to keep.> That's about it.  I have already started to monitor the Ca and I am about to start on a 2 part Alk and Ca regiment. <Please do also monitor alkalinity.  This is at least as important as Ca.  Because they are balanced, one of the benefits of two part additives is that Once you have both Ca and Alk stable, you can measure alk regularly (easy to perform) and Ca only occasionally (harder to test).> What else do you think I need to make this a successful reef tank?  I do not have a sump. <I would probably ditch the hang on filter and consider either replacing your crushed coral with a finer grain size sand.  If you replace it in patches, you will seed life from the CC to the new fine sand.  There is no reason to remove every speck of CC.> I also have no Ammonia, Nitrites and NO3 is at about 20.  The NO3 is high but that will be down in a day or two.  I have little or no phosphates also. <How are you going to reduce the nitrates?  Removing the HO filter and adding some fine sand should bring this down safely and effectively.> Do I need a sump?  What about more water flow?  Is the lighting enough?  Too much?  What can I do to control algae since I will be drastically changing my lighting?  What do I need to watch out for? <Sumps are mostly a matter of convenience, but certainly aren't necessary.  You water flow should be fine (especially if each of your powerheads is 200GPH.  If you add a few grazing snails (not too many!  Three Turbos or six Astrea should be fine), it will help thwart any algae problems, but I wouldn't worry too much.  Nothing in particular that I can think to look out for.> In terms of fish I have a few.  Yellow tang, a few little gobies, arc eye, 6 line and dragon wrasse.  Strawberry, valentine puffer, Percula <That is quite a few fish for your size tank.  The puffer and arc eye present some risk to inverts (snails, hermits, shrimp).  The dragon wrasse and yellow tang are destined to quickly outgrow your tank.  Six lines are very effective pod predators.  None of these things are absolute reasons to get rid of any of these fish, but are things to be aware of and look out for.> I do weekly water changes so I think the maintenance is good.  Thanks for your help.  Brian P. <Weekly water changes will be a great benefit.  You may want to do a 50% or so water change shortly before making the change.  Best of luck!  Adam> - From FOWLR to Reef - Hello and thank for answering my questions.  I just have one more.  My question to your fine staff is this. I have a 65 gallon (48Lx13"x15"h) and would like to add some beginner type corals (mushrooms, zoanthids, Sinularia, Sarcophyton, Lobophytum and some other soft corals).  I am planning on purchasing a 48 inch Retrofit 220 watt Power Compact  2-55 watt daylight, 2-55 watt actinic from Custom Sealife or would you recommend for the extra $50 and get a 36" 2x96 watt retrofit or a 48 inch Power Compact with Moonlight fixture from Custom SeaLife. <The extra wattage will help if corals if what you want to do.> Comes with two 65 watt 10,000K bulb, two 65 watt Ultra-Actinic bulb, and four MoonLites. What would you recommend with my current setup and my beginner choices of corals. <Add them slowly.> Please note, I do NOT plan on upgrading to a bigger tank or getting into the more light intensive type corals. I want to stay in the low to medium light corals.  I currently have a FOWLR with a couple of clowns, a fairy wrasse, two damsels, and a royal Gramma. <Should be fine.> Thanks again for all the work and advise you give, I really appreciate it.  Jose <Cheers, J -- >

Quartz halogen lights and converting a FO to reef Hey Adam thanks for helping me with my reef questions. <Glad to, that's what we're here for!> Well I just asked my local fish store about having to put such yellow lights and they said the same thing that the corals really don't care about the color and they could stand pretty much any Kelvin rating.  So, I was really thinking of probably using these lights to start building up my reef tank until I get some funds to get a state of a art lighting system  in the future. <Do beware of the heat produced by these lights.  In the short term, you could supplement them with some actinic to improve the appearance.> Right know I have about 80 pounds of live rock a 11/2 to 2 inch thick crushed coral gravel< about 20 algae cleaning snails< Clarkii clown <yellow damsel<Rio BakPak CPR skimmer with a canister filter on my 135 gallon long tank.  How would you think I should go if I were just beginning a reef tank of mainly soft corals and those easy begging corals after all I am a beginner at this reef hobby but had marine fish tank for about 4 yrs. now. I am going for the Berlin method < I know I would need more live rock but overtime I will do that adding a rock at a time. <Your lighting will be adequate, but you will want to look ahead to upgrading it to something more efficient and more visually appealing (VHO or MH).  80lbs of live rock is plenty as long as you don't overstock and it provides enough place to put the corals you want to keep.  If you do add live rock in the future, be sure to cure it very well yourself (don't trust a shipper or LFS) before adding it.  A CPR backpack is quite small for that tank, so you may want to consider upgrading.  You will also want to be sure that you have enough water movement. (at least 5x if not 10x the tank volume).  Crushed coral substrate can be a problem in reef tanks because it traps detritus.  If it is very alive with pods, worms, etc, it may be fine, but do be suspicious of the CC bed if you have problems with nutrients.> I also want to know how do improve the coralline algae on my live rock. Because my seems to be very dead now with no life at all it kind of looks like rock when you buy it at the store quarantine tank. I really want it flourish with coralline and biodiversity is there a way to satisfy this with my setup . <Calcium and alkalinity are important here.  I would drain the tank and refill it with new salt water, up the water movement and test and maintain high calcium and alkalinity.  Adding a bit of coralline encrusted live rock will help "seed" the system and get it going.> And my water parameters are pretty much zero. and the calcium and other reef  additives are also probably zero since I never added these things. I've seen the SeaChem reef complete concentrated solution ,it seems to meet all the additives needed for a reef and only needs to be added only two times a week. Is this chemical a good choice. or are there any other chemicals that have everything into one and doesn't' require the frequent dosing like others. <Most of the commercially available products for maintaining calcium and alkalinity are adequate.  I would use their dosing guidelines as a starting point only and adjust based on your test results.  I am strongly in favor of adding smaller doses daily or several times a week instead of larger doses once or twice a week, regardless of the product instructions.> "thanks and mahalo plenty Adam for your time"  as we say in Hawaii" aloha" <Your welcome, and best of luck!  Adam>

Reef Aquarium I have a 45 gal and a 55 gal aquarium system and want to set up one of them as a reef system.  The 45 gal. is 36 x 21 x 12 and the 55 gal. is the standard size.  What is the best lighting for the money?  I want to have soft corals and maybe a few anemones.  Please advise.  The systems I have checked on are very expensive. <In order to get good prices on expensive metal halide lighting or power compact lighting you must first look around, online stores, local stores, classifieds and chat forums. This may take time but can ultimately save you a bunch of cash. You want to keep soft corals so I believe that power compact lighting will work the best. AND YES REEF AQUARIUMS ARE EXPENSIVE!!  Good luck, IanB> Thanks,  Judy

Moving Up (Larger Tank Set Up)                         I am going from a 30 gal FOWLR to a 58 gal reef ready FOWLR tank. I have a Merlin sand filter, a Prizm protein skimmer w/surface skimmer, an Ebo-Jager 200 watt heater, an AquaClear 200 filter, and a couple of sweeping powerheads for water movement. About 10 lbs of live rock (getting more every week). All of this is in my 30 gal. What else do I need to get or upgrade for the 58 gallon? The tank will be drilled (I guess no kidding if it is reef ready). What do I need under the tank where it is drilled and so on I appreciate everything you guys do, you're the best, the most wonderful, intelligent,( if I keep going will you also come over and set it all up for me) witty, knowledgeable........lol........ <Man- my head won't fit through the door...! Actually, in my case it would be "the most confused, mixed up, pig-headed..." LOL>  Thanks again, .Steve         <Well, Steve, since the tank is already drilled, you'd want to get a sump or small aquarium to serve a as a sump (maybe the 30 gal?). You can keep using the protein skimmer and even the AquaClear 200. Run some carbon and or Poly Filter in the Aqua Clear for chemical supplementation. You may want to see if the skimmer is adaptable for in-sump use. If not, you may want to consider a skimmer that can be used in this fashion, such as the Aqua C Urchin Pro. With a bit of creativity, and some elbow grease, you can put together a great FOWLR tank with relatively little hassle. Do make liberal use of the WWM FAQs on sump set ups for more detailed information. Good luck- and let us know if we can be of further assistance! Regards, Scott F>                

Stocking (large angels in a reef) 1/10/03 I currently have a 125 reef that is home to 1 yellow tang, 1 flame angel, and 2 Percula clowns.  All  is well, and I am considering adding 1 large angel. <My first piece of advice is to consider this carefully.  Many folks have large angels in reef tanks, but there is always risk.  They may pick at corals (or flat out eat some!) and can be quite aggressive.> My question for you is:  Is it ok to put a French Angel in with my Pacific / Indo-Pacific fish?  Or would it be better to add something like an Emperor? <Unless you are trying to maintain a "biotope" system, I don't see why regionality should be an issue.> Obviously, I am trying to choose between the French and the Emperor! <The French is probably a sturdier fish that will probably have been collected and handled better.> Also, what  are your feelings about the Majestic Angel?  I have heard from some that they are very difficult to keep, and others say they are ok to maintain, but shy. <This may be my favorite marine fish (based on looks alone).  Getting a good specimen and observing it eat are mandatory, and even then success is not guaranteed.  Removing your yellow tang (at least at first) would probably be a good idea.> I appreciate any advice you could give me!  Thank you! <Any of the angels you might choose should be quarantined for at least 2-3 weeks or a month.  Juveniles are less likely to pick on or develop a taste for inverts down the road, but avoid specimens under about 2.5-3".  Best of luck!  Adam>

The Bug Has Bitten - Filtration for Future Reef >I recently got the saltwater bug and set up a 55 gallon marine tank.   >>Uh oh! >So far, there are about 60# of live rock, various fish and invertebrates, a protein skimmer, a fair-sized  external hang-on filter, and an undergravel filter with 3" of crushed oyster shell substrate and 2 power heads.  The system is thriving, and is a centerpiece in our home. >>Sounds nice. >I now have the bug, and I'm ready for bigger things.  I bought a 180 gallon (2 x 2 x 6) tank, which I plan to eventually set up in my living room directly over a section of foundation wall (since I'm not sure joists could support the weight of a 1-ton tank).  The tank comes with an undergravel filter and 150# of crushed coral substrate.   >>Ok. >My question has to do with filtration of the new tank.  I would like to set it up as a fish/live rock/invertebrate/coral reef tank.  I hear some people like undergravel, and others are sump enthusiasts.  What would be the advantages/disadvantages of using the undergravel filter with the type of tank inhabitants I want?  Would it be better to use a bio/sump-type setup instead? >>For a reef, I, personally, would NOT recommend an undergravel filter, especially for a novice.  They require the kind of maintenance that is problematic in an established reef.  What I would MOST strongly recommend is to spend some money on books - "The Natural Marine Aquarium-Reef Invertebrates" will prove an invaluable tool with regards to setups, ESPECIALLY if designing a refugium and/or algal filter.  My own recommendation would be to set up the 55 as a refugium, with a deep sand bed, either in the tank, in the 'fuge, or both.  They will not be maintenance free (nothing really is), but they will make your chores much easier as nutrients will be recycled rather neatly, leaving a biomineral replacement as your biggest issue.  Then, foam fractionation to start, and once the 'fuge really kicks in, you can remove that entirely (yes, it really can work!).  All of this will require a great deal of research on your part, though. >I don't have a lot of money to spend, nor a lot of time to spend maintaining, so I would like to get an effective system or combination of components that will handle my needs fairly well, to include using plants in a sump or other means to help filter nitrates.  I would even be willing to adapt my old 55 gallon tank and filtration as part of an overall filtration system (can I use the 55 gallon and its undergravel filter as part of the filter for the 180?).   >>The undergravel will simply grab more detritus without allowing an anaerobic areas to properly develop through which basic denitrification would occur.  This would also mean that you would EITHER need to add sand (or sufficiently small) to the substrate, or make it very deep.  Honestly, you'll find your best information within the book, and some of it on the site.  While most folks insist you must use calcareous sand, do know that it is not necessarily a "must", but that it does make certain issues much easier to deal with.  Silica-type sands are also theorized to be too sharp-edged for many of the creatures we hope to propagate within deep sand beds (DSB). >If you had just $200-300 to spend on filtration, my existing 55 gallon tank and filtration resources, and some mechanical/craftsman/fabrication abilities, what would you use? >>I'd spend my money on the sand, a "starter" of algae for the 'fuge, the cheapest lighting possible (shop lights, my friend, they can be set up just fine, though some folks have found power compact fluoros for relatively cheap prices), and do NOT skimp on the pump!  I would actually forego a protein skimmer altogether, too.  But, I'm not like most people.. <giggle> Beyond that, spend your time and money on books and you'll find them to be invaluable in both the long and short term.  On the following site you'll find a listing of good books based on needs (beginners, reefkeepers, breeders, DIYers, et al) - http://www.reefs.org/library  -  And DO search our site extensively.  What is contained within our FAQs can be confusing, mostly because we have differing viewpoints, but I will tell you that the words of Anthony, Steven Pro, and Scott F are based on MANY years of very good experience.  Steven is the only one who does not regularly contribute here, but he does use the sister site forums ( http://www.wetwebfotos.com/talk ).  Best of luck!  Marina

Very Nice Swedish Reef (12/18/2003) Hej! Gissar att det g? bra att skriva p?Svenska(?) <Ja, f? min del men de som l?er svaren p?FAQ-sidan vill nog l?a p?enlgeska. Dessutom finns det s?ert en del som jag kan inte uttrycka p?svenska. <For the benefit of the vast majority of  FAQ readers who do not speak/read Swedish, we'll mix languages as needed.> Blev chockad att dina meningar ? s?bra skrivna, nu n? jag sj?v k?par med min engelska! - mycket imponerad! <Tack, det g? b?tre n? man har bott bland de som talar och skriver spr?et. Jag har faktiskt l?t r?t m?ga svensk b?ker.> Olika bilder p?akvariet: http://www.saltvattensguiden.se/upload/bilder/-KH-_IMGP2136.JPG http://www.saltvattensguiden.se/upload/bilder/-KH-_IMGP2239.JPG http://www.saltvattensguiden.se/upload/bilder/-KH-_IMGP2138.JPG http://www.saltvattensguiden.se/upload/bilder/-KH-_IMGP2140.JPG http://www.saltvattensguiden.se/upload/bilder/-KH-_IMGP2145.JPG http://www.saltvattensguiden.se/upload/bilder/-KH-_IMGP2165.JPG http://www.saltvattensguiden.se/upload/bilder/-KH-_IMGP2232.JPG http://www.saltvattensguiden.se/upload/bilder/-KH-_krabbis.JPG http://www.saltvattensguiden.se/upload/bilder/-KH-_krabbis2.JPG <Very nice. I'll post this on the FAQ so others can look at these nice pictures of your beautiful reef.> Lyset ? p?250W MH och lysr? p?10000k, ett actinic bl?och ett m?ljus. Vad ? det som du jobbar med? eftersom du h?er din l? med 4ggr? <barnl?are.  N? jag bodde sist I Sverige (93-95) fick dem mindre betalt ? en tysk svetsare.> Jag jobbar som str?skyddstekniker p?k?nkraftsverk! <Vilken? Skulle man inte ha hunnit avveckla k?nkraften I Sverige nu?> S?vi p?f?etaget ?er n? g?g per ? till andra l?der och hyrs in. USA och Canada ? de l?der som vi bla ?er till. Jag har ?nu inte f?t ?a, men jobbade p?Siemens-Irland ett ?... Det ? det n?msta USA jag varit *skratt* <Du kanske f? tillf?let n?on g?g I framtiden.> <For you non-Swedish readers, Kalle is a radiation safety technician at a Swedish nuclear power plant. He lives out in the beautiful Swedish countryside and has a very nice reef tank that you can view at the above links.> Hur g? det med ditt system? <My system? I'll take that one in English. My system is not quite as complicated as the plumbing of a nuclear power plant, but almost. The main tank is 180 gallons FOWLR. That has  sump/refugium with skimmer/ozone/heaters underneath. The main tank also pumps up into a 44G upstream refugium an 80G DSB reef that both drain back into the main tank. The reef also drains into an 18G "algae farm" that pumps back up into the reef and has a drilled emergency overflow drain down into the sump. If the power goes out, the sump can hold all of the water held up by the pumps. the system is running quite nicely, but I do struggle a bit with nuisance algae because the fish in the 180 are such big messy eaters (Snowflake Eel, Bird Wrasse, Picasso Trigger, Coral Hawkfish, Yellow Tang). I'm hoping the Lawnmower Blenny I added will help. Algae-eating inverts are just Wrasse/Trigger food. I do have a couple of large seastars thriving in there that the fish leave alone. I need to do better substrate <1 inch crushed coral) clean-up in the 180, but I am doing 25G water change every week. When the WetWebFotos uploading works again, I'll post some pix. Either that or I'll post some on my own homepage next time I update it. It's hard to find the time these days.> GOD JUL OCH GOTT NYTT ? fr? svenska landsbyggden-Kalle <Tack. Happy Holidays to you as well, Steve Allen.>

UV for a Reef (12-15-03) Also, Is a UV beneficial or harmful to a reef environment? I have 57 Watt, and I'm thinking reef?<Its a matter of opinion here, some people run a UV some don't.  I run a UV on my reef and have seen no ill effects.  It seems to help with water clarity and algae outbreaks.  I say research and decide for yourself as each person views this in different ways.> Thanks for all your help!<My pleasure! Cody>

Looking for advice WWM crew Thank you in advance for your help.\ <hello> I have just recently purchased a 125 gallon tank (72 x 20 x 20) that I want to turn into a reef setup. I would like to some of each LPS and SPS good or not? <good> What I am planning. 40 gallon sump with Kent-marine skimmer TE model. (pump 760gph) Making My own sump with bio balls <bio balls are not needed for a reef> ,carbon and baffles to take out all the air bubbles and possible an area with some live sand and macro algae Return Pump will turn over tank 6 times an hour. (enough or should go higher?) <for SPS, yes> thinking about 2 pumps returning on opposite ends of the tank on timers to simulate tide changes. <good idea> Lights, due to money issues planning on starting with 4 x 96w power compact. (2 10k daylight and 2 50/50) and working up to (as money allows) with the power compact adding, 3 250W metal halide  with 20k bulbs. This would give me a total 1134W. Should take me about 6 to 8 months to get to this point. Will start out with 2-3 inches live sand fine to medium. will start with about 100lbs of live rock and add more as money allows. I want to move everything in my 30 gallon as soon as possible to this tank. 2 yellow tail damsels, 1 clown, 1 large and 1 small leather coral, 1 anemone, 2 emerald crabs, 4 scarlet hermits, 6 blue legged hermits, 8 Astrea Snails, 1 Star fish (not sure what kind), 1 cleaner shrimp. 15lbs live rock. This tank has been running for about 1 year and has 130w power compact with 50/50 bulbs. How soon would you recommend. This 30 gallon will become my QT after. Any advice on setup or possible stocking options would be great. Love your site looking forward to hearing from you. <once all the levels in the new tank are the same as in you 30 gal. set up you can move the animals over. Time line kind of depends on how cured the new  sand and rock is. Once the levels are there put a coral and a fish in if in a week they look good add the rest of the tank. Good luck MikeH> Thanks Norm

Getting Bigger and Better (12/13/2003) WWM crew Thank you in advance for your help. <no problem> I have just recently purchased a 125 gallon tank (72 x 20 x 20) that I want to turn into a reef setup. <A nice size tank for a reef.> I would like to some of each LPS and SPS good or not? <Not really. Start with "coral welfare" here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/coraselfaq2.htm  and read more on the linked FAQs. What I am planning. 40 gallon sump with Kent-marine skimmer TE model. (pump 760gph) <You may be better off with another brand such as AquaC, Euro-Reef or Precision Marine. Do more research before buying. Don't skimp on the skimmer. It will be key to your successes.> Making My own sump with bio balls, carbon and baffles to take out all the air bubbles and possible an area with some live sand and macro algae. <Skip the bioballs if you have LS & LR> Do look around on the web for a good DIY design. Simple is usually better.> Return Pump will turn over tank 6 times an hour. (enough or should go higher?) thinking about 2 pumps returning on opposite ends of the tank on timers to simulate tide changes. <I'd suggest only one good pump as a sump return. If you have the space under the tank, an external pump, like an Iwaki, is best. Is this a pre-drilled tank with 2 overflows? Total circulation in a reef should be 10-20X volume. For additional circulation, consider a closed loop from an extra drilled hole returning to a device such as Sea Swirl or SCWD. Many options available. Read more on WWM FAQs and DIY sites like ozreef.org> Lights, due to money issues planning on starting with 4 x 96w power compact. (2 10k daylight and 2 50/50) and working up to (as money allows) with the power compact adding, 3 250W metal halide  with 20k bulbs. This would give me a total 1134W. Should take me about 6 to 8 months to get to this point. <I really like my Custom SeaLife PCs. Well-constructed, easy to use, and aesthetically pleasing. Suitable for all but the most light-demanding SPS and clams. What you should ultimately use really depends on what you ultimately want in the tank. Start learning here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm> Will start out with 2-3 inches live sand fine to medium. Will start with about 100lbs of live rock and add more as money allows. I want to move everything in my 30 gallon as soon as possible to this tank. 2 yellow tail damsels, 1 clown, 1 large and 1 small leather coral, 1 anemone, 2 emerald crabs, 4 scarlet hermits, 6 blue legged hermits, 8 Astrea Snails, 1 Star fish (not sure what kind), 1 cleaner shrimp. 15lbs live rock. This tank has been running for about 1 year and has 130w power compact with 50/50 bulbs. How soon would you recommend. <You will need to be sure the 125 is running ,cycled and stable. You ought to be able to move all of this to a stable system without difficulty. Do search WWM for more info on transferring livestock.> This 30 gallon will become my QT after. <Great! Don't ever skip QT.> Any advice on setup or possible stocking options would be great. <So many to choose from. Stick to reef-safe fishes. Resist the temptation to overstock. Avoid impulse-buying. It is you who must choose the right mix for your tank. Have fun with this process. Once you come up with more specific list, research each choice carefully and consider their needs, temperaments, etc. Would be happy to share thoughts on specific fishes in the future.> Love your site looking forward to hearing from you. Thanks, Norm <A pleasure. Steve Allen>

Big Tank- Big Plans! Hi all, I have been reading your site for a few months now in preparation to setting up my own reef aquarium. <Glad to hear that! Scott F. with you today!> I have come to trust your opinions and value your knowledge and experience. Even though I have done as much research as I can, I would like you to go through the quotation I have had back from the LFS that are going to do my setup and give me your opinion on the equipment and setup. <Will do my best> What I wanted was a reef aquarium, 9' long, 2' wide and 18" in depth (About 200g total). The tank will sit 18" off the ground with a 50g 3 chamber sump/refugium underneath on one side, and a 50g quarantine tank on the other. <Nice idea! But the QT need not be permanent...Just set it up when you need it and tear it down when you're through...easy> The water from the main tank will overflow into the left chamber of the sump, where the protein skimmer, top up, Kalkwasser etc will go, this will overflow into the middle chamber where the return will take it back to the main tank. The right chamber of the sump will have water pumped into it from the middle chamber and will contain sand and LR for a refugium with overflow back into the middle chamber. The right side of the main tank will have a tap for draining off water for water changes etc and this will sit directly over the QT so I can drain the water into the QT when needed. <Sounds great. I like the idea of draining water directly into the QT...excellent idea> After going to the LFS with this idea in hand they came up with the following quotation for setup of the main tank only. The QT and sumps are just standard size tanks and of not major concern. The shop and tank will be set up in England so some of the models may be a little different. (I have searched for the specific lighting solution he proposes but I can't find it, looks fairly similar to the Custom SeaLife products) <Good products> Eco Cooler 1000w 5x Box of grade A living Fiji rock (not sure how much is in 1 box) ideally I want about 250lbs of live rock ,100kg coral sand Tunze Osmolator Universal 3155 <Nice> Sea Test Hydrometer 4x Holdfast Epoxy Putty <You'll be using this stuff if SPS corals are in the future> Reef Crystals (25kg) 2x 1262 Eheim Pump P1 Sterilizer 1060 up to approx 1000ltr (222 gal) Turbo Skimmer (think that's a Deltec) <Deltec products are just coming into the US, but I have heard very good things about them!> FR609 Fluidized Reactor <This is the one component that I would pass on...I just don't think you need it with a good sump, skimmer, live rock/sand, and a refugium> KM500T Kalkwassermixer Float valve kit for auto top up 2x AH2FBSA Silver Double 400w Pendant Light (so 1600w of lighting with another 250w Actinics built in, that's 9w/gal which is a lot) <Yes it is, but don't forget- that's not the only measure of the capability of a lighting system...> RO Unit AP 50 3x HPL 5250 External INTERVAL Pump Suction/Input - 32mm; Pressure/Outlet 32mm This is a large undertaking which is not going to be cheap so I don't want to make any mistakes. 1> To put it simply do you think this setup has any equipment that you wouldn't use/trust either model problems or bad philosophy? <I like your concepts. If you are so inclined, and you anticipate SPS corals, I'd opt for a calcium reactor rather than a Kalk mixer, at least to start (lots of people do run both, but start with one or the other, IMO). As above on the fluidized bed filter> 2> Is the lighting excessive considering it is only an 18" deep tank, the lights will probably sit about 9" off the surface? <Well, some hard core SPS freaks will argue otherwise, but in a shallow tank, you may be able to get away with 250 watts. There will be a noticeable savings in terms of heat and electricity. I'd opt for 250w double ended HQI pendants, which are very efficient> 3> Does the circulation seem fine? <Sounds like you have enough "power"- just create a return outlet pattern that provides good flow throughout the tank...> On another note: I eventually plan on keeping bubble tip anemone's in this setup, I have read up about allelopathy (although I still can't spell it) and would also like to keep other corals (yes I know the problems), with a bommie on one side of the tank for the bubble tips and a 5" gap then rockwork on the other side for the corals etc. <Well, in a tank this size, with good separation, excellent skimming, and good husbandry practices, you could probably get away with it better than you would in a smaller system...Still not a big fan of the mixing of these animals, though.> 4> With regular (weekly 10%) water changes will I be able to keep on top of the chemical warfare or am I producing a coral cooking pot which will eventually see the demise of either my bubble tips or the other corals? <As above- this will be among the best things that you can do to help alleviate potential allelopathic interactions> 5> I intend to try and keep the bubble tips separate and stop them wandering with a perforated glass sheet that I only put down the middle when one of them gets into a floating/wandering mood. I know this isn't foolproof but do you think it might help? <Worth a shot..> 6> What corals are from the same neck of the woods as the bubble tips and have the best chance of surviving, I would prefer to have a small number of larger species rather than a multi-species garden type approach. <Many different possibilities...You'd be best served by doing some research on the 'net regarding habitats of these animals, and how to situate them within your system> 7> Can you recommend anything else that might survive on the bubble tip side of the fence so to speak that will help cover the rocks and provide a nice backdrop apart from the algae on the rocks? <Again, many different possibilities, limited mainly by your husbandry practices and skill at arranging the animals> Ok lastly, regarding the fish I want to keep, these are 2x gold stripe maroon clownfish (mated pair) although a little worried about there aggression), flame angel, school of 7 or 9 green Chromis, 6 line wrasse and if possible, 5 or 7 yellow tangs. <I would not go with that many tangs, but the other fish seem to be fine> 8> Do you think I can fit a small shoal of yellow tangs in this tank? Total water about 240g's and a large water surface area. <I would be inclined to pass at more than 3 of these guys, myself..> 9> Anything I have missed regarding compatibility with the fish/reef aquarium? <Not really- you seem to have a good grasp as to what works and the consequences/risks associated with mixing different animals. You have a nice strategy, and some interesting concepts built into your system design. I'd continue to make use of the many resources available here at WWM and throughout the 'net to help you select compatible animals..> 10> Any other fish that might go well with this small selection? <Well, lots of cool blennies, gobies, and Pseudochromis that would fit the bill...> Probably don't want much more if I intend to keep all the tangs in the tank. <Another good insight on your part> Sorry it is such a long list, I have tried to do my own research as much as possible as I hope the overall setup shows, and this is the accumulation of 3 months relatively concentrated research as well as 2 years yearning for a reef aquarium. Thanks in advance for all your help and for such an informative website. Gary J <Thanks for the kind words! Keep up the good research and execute your plan accordingly- you're on the path to success! Good luck, and keep us informed of your progress! Regards, Scott F>

100 gallon reef tank equipment Hi Guys, <hello>   I have purchased a 5ft 100 gallon tank with the full intention of progressing a reef tank.  With all of the products on the market and all the confusion on what pumps, lights, heaters, etc... that you can buy, I am stumped on what I really need to make this work.  I plan on having livestock, of course well after I setup the reef, however, I would like to make one purchase for everything I need to succeed in this venture.  I was hoping you could give me your thoughts on everything I need, even brand names if you have preferences.  I appreciate your time. <well you are asking a lot of questions here and I will go over some basics with you. There is a lot of info on this site about equipment. If I do not answer what you are looking for search this site and I am sure you will find it. First, skimmer this is going to be one of the most important pieces of equipment you buy. For a 100 gallon tank I would say to use a Euro-Reef cs6-1.They are some of the best skimmers I have ever used. Very easy to clean and maintain. Next, Lights are going to be a tough one, because different corals require different light. If you want to go with VHO's I would use icecap ballasts. They are very well made and are electronic so they do not get hot and use less electricity. If you want to go with halides ,I use e-line ballasts, also electronic. Next, If you are using an external pump go with an Iwaki know this is bad to say but go with the Japanese motors, they are quieter and run longer.) If you are going with a submersible pump go with a mag drive pump. Very heavy duty. As far as heaters go, any titanium heater will do just fine. This should give you a good head start. Try to buy the best equipment you can now. It will save you time and aggravation later MikeH>

Reef Biotopes 11/27/03 Hello again Anthony!  I hope you don't mind another round of 'tope questions <G>.   <my pleasure> While researching biotopes to mimic for my display I've been under the impression that "biotope" meant limiting my selection of corals to a single specific family; e.g. Acroporids. <not at all my friend... or rather, not only in this manner. A biotope aquarium is simply a collection of naturally occurring tankmates. It can have more than one species to be sure... more than one family (although don't get too frisky here). Start by avoiding corals that would never occur at the same depth (like deepwater mushroom corallimorphs and Porites cylindricus). Of course, do not mix corals from different oceans!> I bring this up because I found a "rubble zone" biotope (Sulawesi) which depicts a boulder surrounded by sand expanses and coral rubble.  The boulder is populated by (if memory serves) 13 different types of hard and soft corals.   <sounds very handsome> So, is the issue of allelopathy driven by mixing corals from different oceans, the unnatural confines of an aquarium, a bit of both? <yes, both indeed... more on the aquarium though (unnatural confines... small volume of water)... but also remember that even naturally occurring neighbors are still conducting chemical warfare. We are simply trying to minimize it (not stop it... impossible) by avoiding excessively noxious species (soft corals and algae) or very unnatural neighbors which will amplify the dynamic and damage> If corals originate from the same region (lets say Fiji), are they more compatible in the aquarium?   <too general... focus on a niche like shallow water in Fiji... or a mud flat in Fiji. There are coral species occurring in niches/depths that would not see each other in Fiji any more than they are likely to see an Atlantic species. So do be more focused here> As I write this I have the nagging sensation that the confines of the aquarium are the limiting factors that would preclude "mixing" corals in the display.   <agreed> I guess I'm just asking you to confirm what I think I already know.   <confirmed <G>> I found the rubble zone a fascinating biotope but suspect that without the "hundreds per hour" water changes of the natural reef, it just isn't a practical mix for the home display.  Thanks for all you do.  Eric <indeed difficult to mix many species in most any sized aquaria when are water flow is pale and water changes are weak by comparison. You will fare better to specialize a bit my friend. Best of luck! Anthony>

Filtration Options in a New Reef Good afternoon, <Same to you! Ryan here> We have been running our saltwater system for a number of years. We have a 65gal drilled aquarium with about 80 lbs of live rock. <Great> Last year, our sump sprung a leak the day we were going on holidays for a month and so we hastily took everything down. <Lucky it didn't blow the next day!> We are back into it again and have since discovered that it was probably our "custom-made", super heavy glass bio-tower filled with live coral pieces resting on the edges of the sump that caused the problem in the first place! <Safe bet!> We have since built our own acrylic bio-tower and thought it would be a good idea to have it free standing in the sump and filled with bio balls as this would solve the weight problem. <OK> This worked great and everything seemed to be doing fine for about 4 months. Recently, I noticed that we were getting hair algae growing on the rocks and the good green algae growth on the back of the tank was disappearing. In addition, our home-made tower is falling apart already as the acrylic is warping. HELP! We have done some research into ready made systems and we are waffling between the Tidepool 2 Bio-wheel filter or the Sea Reef SR100  filters with the bio balls. I am not sure if either is very good because from my research, it seems that my algae problem is from the use of bio balls <Whoa...hold on a second.  Yes, the use of bio-balls is keeping you from eliminating nitrate from your system, but it's not causing algae.  This is an important relationship to understand.  It's the limitation of nutrients that will prevent future algae growth.  Nitrate is a piece of the puzzle, but there is more that you can to help keep this at bay.  See here: http://WetWebMedia.Com/nutrientcontrol.htm> but I do not know anything about the bio wheels except that sometimes they stop turning. <I prefer bio-wheels to balls, but both are optional when you're stocked with live rock.  Many reefers think that the bio-stuff is truly detrimental to reef systems.  Lots of heated debates have proved only one thing: Every one's tank is different.  But, perhaps you should focus this next purchase on a high quality skimmer?>  If we purchased the Sea Reef SR100, could we put the coral pieces we still have in instead of the bio balls? <I would follow the manufacturer's advice on that one.  Haven't actually used this product personally.>  If so, what would be the easiest way to get the denitrifying bacteria onto the coral so we can make an easier transition? <Time> What are your comments on the Tidepool 2 BioWheel outfit?  <Great reviews for freshwater applications, mixed reviews in a reef.  Give me live rock, quality skimmer and a refugium over that ANY day.> A third option I have been entertaining is the AMF Mudd system. I cannot find much information on it but I am thinking I could use my coral I already have in this system if it was properly prepared first?! Any ideas? <I would use the mud only...lots of great tanks are run with these mud systems, and I've very impressed thus far.  Lots of info on the system here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mudfiltrfaqs.htm   Whichever way you decide to go, there is plenty of support!  Our FAQs are the best free advice you could ask for, and forums such as Reefcentral.com are great places to chat with fellow aquarists.  Good luck, and bottom line, have fun with it!  Happy Thanksgiving! Ryan>

Reef Biotopes Hello Crew!  I'm looking for a bit of a "kick-start" in the right direction.  I'm building a very large reef system (approx. 450 gal.) and about five months ago when all this started Anthony pitched to me a very convincing argument on the merits of "reef biotope"  versus "reef garden". As a result I did a bit of research; as well as some reflection on my own past reefing experiences, and made the decision to go with a biotope display.  As stated, I've been building the system for about the past five months going very slowly allowing time for research, experimentation, equipment selection, more research............  I added water, sand, and home-made base rock about two weeks ago and want to get the 'fuge and live rock (what kind?!!!) < right now I think Eva rock is the best out there> growing, but won't be adding fish, large inverts, etc. for another six months (taking Bob's advice on letting things mature).  My dilemma is I still haven't settled on a region/Island on which to base the display.  I want a SPS biotope and I am leaning toward a forward/upper reef slope display (8000gph+ tank turnover currently provided).  I've discounted the Philippines and Indonesia due to current collection practices; I've been considering Fiji Islands, Sri Lanka, and Coral Sea.  I've done "Key Word" searches but have found little on biotopic displays from these regions.  I have Anthony's "Coral Propagation" book and his and Bob's "Reef Invertebrates" as well as Eric Borneman's "Aquarium Corals" (Reef Secrets, Nilsen and Fossa, is on the way) which all address biotope displays but offer little on selection of same (please, no rock throwing. I'm not finding fault with these writings, I understand this was not the scope of these books).  My main concern is to pick a region with large biodiversity that is available to the aquarium trade  (aquacultured of course when available).  I don't want to settle/gear-up for a specific 'tope and then find I can't acquire specimens.  Can you offer any tips for researching reef aquarium biotopes?  Can you offer any insights to specific biotope displays?  Am I being too nebulous? Thanks for your consideration - Eric <try Natural reef aquariums by John Tullock he give some info that I think will help you good luck Mike H> <Mmm, and the "Reef Guides" by Helmut Debelius, various "Coffee Table Books" give good clues, pix... as do "Diving Books" that are about a given region... there are MANY of these... can be searched online. Bob F>

Starting A Reef...  Dear Robert,  <Actually- Scott F. here today!>  Before I start with my questions, I have to say what an excellent website WWM is. I have printed off most of it to read at my leisure and have found it to be a great source of information.  <So glad that you enjoy it! We have a blast bringing it to you every day!>  I have spent the last 18 months reading books lots of books on marine systems, fish, corals and inverts including the Conscientious Marine Aquarist by yourself.  <Bob wrote one great book, I tell ya!>  I am planning to set up a reef tank and would like some advice.  The tank itself will be between 110-120 gallons.  I plan to have about 50kg of premium live rock and a plenum. Additional filtration from an Eheim 2217 canister and an Eheim 2329 wet/dry canister with a TMC Vectron 25w U.V. and a Red Sea Prism Pro protein skimmer. Additional water movement from 3 or 4 powerheads on a controller.  <Sounds good...Make sure that the skimmer yanks out a lot of dark stuff weekly...>  The lighting from an Arcadia Series 3 unit with 2 x 150w 14000k metal halides and 2 x actinic 30w tubes with an additional Aquamedic moonlight.  <A nice set up>  I plan to keep, 1-3 tank bred common clowns  1 royal Gramma  1 purple tang  1 scooter blenny  <I'd wait on this guy until the tank is more established, which will allow him more foraging>  3 pajama cardinals or Banggai  blood shrimp (amount ?)  <I'd keep only one>  red legged hermit crabs (amount ?)  <Several- like maybe 3-4...That's my opinion, though...>  1 orange sea star  Assorted soft and hard corals, Clavularia, Sarcophyton, Tubipora, Capnella, Acropora and Bubble Coral, depending on availability and your advice.  <I'd stick with the Sarcophyton, Capnella, Clavularia, and maybe some other soft corals. I'd avoid the Tubipora, and I would not mix the Acropora with the other corals you're thinking about. The Bubble Coral is quite aggressive, and you may want to think twice about placing it in with the other corals, unless you put a lot of room between it an it's neighbors. Aggressive skimming and liberal use of activated carbon and other chemical filtration media, as well as frequent small water changes, will really help>  Would I need to add calcium additions or a calcium reactor with frequent water changes with RO water?  <In a soft coral tank, it may not be mandatory, but I would consider some form of calcium supplementation, like Kalkwasser- as well as buffering of the source water>  Will the canisters be adequate or will I need a full sump?  <I like the idea of a sump, myself>  I would appreciate any advice you can give me and a stocking order.  Thank you very much, Tim. (Oxford, England.)  <You're quite welcome! I hope that my input is of use to you. Good luck with this setup! Regards, Scott F>

Maximum Reef tank height? 11/2/03  Hi Crew,  <howdy>  What is the maximum height you can make a reef aquarium before you run into problems? I am considering a 48" tall tank.  Thanks, Greg  <for the very generic/vague nature of your question, I am not sure how to respond. By problems, do you mean from poor light penetration )mp worries here... scale lighting appropriately with metal halides for punch)... or do you mean "problems" regarding adequate gas exchange with water at depth (can be tempered by aspirating skimmers/reactors and ozone). Is this a DIY tank? If so, you cannot build safely over 30" without a laminate or 4-sided capture. You need to do much more research here my friend. Do browse our archives on big tanks. Anthony> 

Filtration Options For Reef Systems Hi, <Hi there! Scott F. at your service!> I have read a lot off the website and I am very confused when it comes to filtration. <Certainly not uncommon...Lots to be confused about> I have a 90 gallon tank with stand and 265 watt power compact hood. I don't know what type of filtration to use.  It is going to be mainly fish but corals are going to be introduced later.  Every where I read people have different opinions.  I know that I have to get live rock and about 3 inches of gravel as a biological filter and I am thinking about an Eheim canister wet/dry filter model 2229 for chemical filtration, and an Aqua Medic or Red Sea Berlin skimmer for mechanical filtration. <Not a bad way to go...But I think a simple sump-based system can do the job with more flexibility and a lot less hassle...Not to mention the fact that all of the equipment can be located out of sight. A good protein skimmer in the sump is a fine and necessary addition to any marine tank. I'd also look into the Aqua C EV series, or the (admittedly more expensive, but really "plug and play") Euroreef skimmers.> Although I can make this all as a hang on filtering tank but I don't really like all of those things sticking in the tank even though I have a stand. I am thinking of a sump. <Yep- the best way, IMO> Can I get away with live rock and sand, protein skimmer, and throw some activated carbon in the sump, or are there better methods? <Well, depending on your goals and requirements, there are lots of ways to go, but for 90% of the setups I see, sump-based systems are the way to go> I know about the overflow method, but don't know how drilling holes, skimming and balancing the water works.  Can you please provide me with some knowledge to go about creating the easiest filtration system that requires the least maintenance, because all in all it is difficult, even though everyone seems to think its not. Thanks <Well, it REALLY is not that difficult. The sump based systems are simple, conceptually. There are over-the-side plumbing kits available, that eliminate the need for drilling, but they are often prone to failure, so I cannot recommend them. Any competent local fish store should be able to drill your tank and install an overflow/bulkheads for you. As far as sump and pump sizing- there are many options again. My personal rule of thumb is to use a sump that is about 1/4 to 1/3 the size of the display, for maximum flexibility. It would be good to see a pump used that can turn over anywhere between 5-10 times capacity per hour. Again- there are numerous approaches to these systems. I recommend consulting with your LFS, or with a competent local hobbyist for more ideas...Look at a few successful setups and think about how you can incorporate these ideas into your own system. Also, check out the many resources on the WWM site, as well as other DIY sites, such as OzReef.org. Good luck! Take your time to learn and get comfortable...Regards, Scott F>

Evolving A Reef Tank? Hello All... <Hi there! Scott F. with you today!> Love the site.  It has become one of my first reads every morning.  You've been a great resource in the past and hope you don't mind my picking your brains again... <Sure! Glad that you enjoy the site- we're happy to be here for you!> I have had a 37-gallon FOWLR set up going now for about 4 months.  I have about 30-35 lbs of live rock w/ approx 2-2.5" aragonite substrate, a maroon clown, coral beauty, black cap Basslet and a saddled filefish under an Eclipse 3 hood.  I have also added a power head for additional water movement.  In addition, I have 4 hermit crabs, and 3 snails.  I am considering upgrading my lighting in order to stimulate some of the live rock growth and add color (and living organisms) to my tank.  However, I don't know whether I should be looking at simply replacing the fl. bulbs that came with the Eclipse, or totally replacing the lighting kit with a compact fl. <I'd go for the compact fluorescents. They give a lot of "bang for the buck", in terms of intensity and color spectrum bulbs  available. I have seen a number of postings on various websites about retrofitting Eclipse hoods with PC's. In fact, I believe that Custom Sea Life and/or other compact fluorescent manufacturers make retrofit systems specifically for the Eclipse hoods...> I was told that if I went to the compact, I could consider adding some simple, hearty corals to the tank to help increase the color of the tank.  What are your thoughts? <With PCs in a relatively small system, you should be able to achieve sufficient intensity to keep a variety of LPS or less demanding soft corals> What else should I be considering (this is my first marine tank)?  Any additional inverts/dusters/urchins that might add some interest? <Well, you can have a variety of easy to keep corals in this tank, but my concern is the potential for the Filefish to munch on your future invertebrate additions. The Coral Beauty, although less of a threat (IMO) than other Centropyge angelfishes, can still pick on some corals, particularly LPS specimens...All things to consider> I'm also willing to be patient if that's all I need to do at this point. <Well, patience is never a bad thing! You can certainly experiment with some of the more hardy soft corals...Again- keep in mind the potential destructive power of the filefish...> Thanks for your input! Bob <A pleasure, Bob! Have fun! Regards, Scott F.>

Azooxanthellate invertebrates 10/23/03 Hi Anthony <howdy> Thanks for your help regarding my blue polyp gorgonian ( Acalycigorgia sp. ).  I think I'm going to alternate Cyclop-Eeze and Zoplan, a new product from two little fishies, on a daily basis. <interesting> My Tubastrea will continue getting alternating Cyclop-Eeze and Selcon soaked Mysis. <yes... a meat eater> Your help was much appreciated. <very welcome> Since your last email I decided to plan a new tank ( 125 gal ). This tank will be dedicated to  non photosynthetic animals. Most of them gorgonians (Diodogorgia and Acalycigorgia ). My Tubastrea will also go in there. Would also like to try a black Tubastrea <some folks tank rearing these in California> and Dendronephthya. I will go with a very large refugium ( 75 % of display). <a must... and please have this refugium running for 6-12 months before adding gorgonians to the display for optimal chances at success> I need your help in figuring out a circulation system. Which one would you go with. ~ Tunze Turbelle system which would produce about 25 times turn per hour.  This flow is said to be a gentle flow. How many turns could I go up to? ~  SCWD circulation system. I was wondering if this system could be connected to 2  SEA SWIRLS. Would this be a waste or do you  think it would be a good idea. ~ SEA SWIRL circulation system. I would use 2 SEA SWIRLS to generate random water movement. <all three are top-shelf choices... but many/most gorgonians like laminar flow (uncommon among cnidarians). As such, the Tunze would be best here IMO> The plan is to provide the optimum tank for these creatures. The only other animals Id like to keep are ventralis Anthias but its not necessary and don't  know if the flow would be too much. Thank you for your help Anthony. Peace <and peace to you in kind. Looking forward to seeing some pics of this tank a year from now :) Anthony>

Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner