MarSetUpFAQs

FAQs on Marine System Set-Up & Components 1


Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Setting up a saltwater tank, where to begin? Hi My name is Jill Boles my husband Benjamin and I would like to start a small saltwater tank. My 18 month old daughter, Emma, loves Nemo and my husband has wanted to get fish for a while. I need your guidance as to what size tank, what type of filter, what kinds of fish and other stuff to get. < I'm all for having a tank, but I'd make sure you really want one, and are not just jumping into this because of a movie. > I only want tank bred fish I know this probably limits the kinds available but I don't want to take animals from the wild. < Then you are definitely limited on what you can get, but I support you in this regard. > The only kind of fish I know I want is a clown fish. < One of the fish that can be easily purchased as captive raised. > I also wanted to get a blue tang but from reading your other answers I don't think this would be advisable till I am more experienced and have a large tank. < Correct. And I'm not sure if you could find a tank raised tang of any kind. > I don't want anything to big right now. Please give me any suggestions as to where to obtain the suggested items at good prices. < Any local store could hook you up with a 55 gal tank, and that is a great beginner sized aquarium. > One other question I live in Florida and it sometimes gets really hot - I know when it is cold you have to keep the tank warm do I need to worry about keeping it cool. < You only need to worry about keeping it cool if you have lots of hot lights on the tank. Since you are not housing wild animals you won't have coral (well you could but it doesn't sound like you will) so high lights are not needed. So to answer your question I don't you will have to worry much about keeping the tank cool. > If so how do I do this. < Most people just add a couple fans to the top of their tanks, which does wonders for cooling. > Thanks for your help. < I'd recommend seeing some local tanks. Also, please check out local fish. The fish we get from Florida are often well collected and transported. You can't get anemonefish from there but you can get some great local animals. > Sincerely, Jill C Boles < Blundell >

My 5ft(L) x 2.5ft(W) x 2.5ft(H) marine aquarium Have a look at the 4 weeks old marine tank I setup up at home: Picture: 1. Haddoni Anemone with 2 saddleback clownfish 2. Sun coral (relies primarily of zooplankton or Phyto) 3. Button coral 4. Merulina coral 5. Montipora coral 6. Merulina coral (same as 3 but under diff lighting) 7. Button coral (same as 3 but under diff lighting) 8. Pink Bubble Tip Anemone with Maroon stripped clownfish 9. Fungia 10. Closed brain 11. Fox face Rabbitfish / Yellow tang 12. Tank view 13. Another brain coral Steven
<Very nice. And nice pix! Bob Fenner>

- Equipment Review - Hi guys, I can't say enough about your site. Ever since I decided to start a salt water tank I have been looking for a site just like this. Very informative, I can't thank you enough. Now my question: I am starting a new aquarium with a 29 gal. tank and I just want to run what I'm planning by you. How does this sound? <It's got a beat, I can dance to it...> Eheim canister filter, either 2233 or 2235, AquaC Remora protein skimmer with either the MJ1200 or the Rio800 (I read on your site that you can actually over-skim so I don't want to overdo it, but I like getting equipment that is overrated for the tank I'm using, and I could use it if I decide to upgrade), 2 50/50 bulbs, 20-25lbs. of premium live rock, 1-2" of live sand, and AquaClear 301 or 402 powerhead. I have a heater and an AquaClear 200 filter that I plan to use just to increase circulation. <Sound like a good mix of stuff although I do wonder if you'll have enough room to have this all hanging on the back of the tank. Any chance I can convince you to upgrade to a 40 gallon tank?> Thanks again for such a great site. You guys are the best. Sincerely, Larry <Cheers, J -- >

Bio-Pro 1600 Hello Bob, <Hey, MacL here with you today.> I am interested in purchasing a BIO-PRO 1600 from someone for my 240 gallon tank. Can you help me. Thanks.

Two Questions (Marine System plumbing, algae control) Hi. I hope you can help us. We have a 115 gallon salt water aquarium with live rock, some anemones, mushrooms and a few fish. We're having two major problems: 1) there are millions of tiny bubbles constantly in the tank. We thought it could be the chiller so we turned that off but still the bubbles. Other tanks that I see do not have this problem. <Please read here: http://www.WetWebMedia.com/pbfaqsmar.htm and the links beyond> 2) Everything in the tank turns brown. The rocks, the anemones, the mushrooms etc. And things die i.e. plants, fish, and feather dusters. We must be doing things terribly wrong. Can you offer any suggestions for these problems? We use a metal halide light. Thanks for any help. HM <There are MANY possibilities/inputs of what might be "wrong" here... please read the set-up and maintenance sections of our principal's site (WetWebMedia.com) re marine systems and the following area on trouble shooting: http://www.WetWebMedia.com/tanktroubleshting.htm Through these experiences, reflection, you will gain a better understanding of what is going on in your system. Bob Fenner>

New Set-Up with Plenum? Hello Bob, I'm setting up a 125 gallon reef tank and will be going with live rock and live sand along with an aqua-c protein skimmer in the sump for filtration. The tank will have dual overflows in each corner with returns out of both with the main system pump being a Gen-x mach 4 running a 1190 gph at 4'. Lighting will consist of 2 MH 175 watt 10K German as well as VHO actinic. The sump size will be 40 -gallon and there will also be a 10 gallon automatic top off tank. The goal of the tank is to contain leathers, mushrooms, anemones, clams as well as a pair of clowns, a pair of fire fish, royal Gramma, yellow tang and eventually a Naso or powder blue to finish off the tank. <Hmm, sounds like a nice system... you may well need to boost the lighting for the Clams and anemones... maybe at least one 400 watt MH> Looking for you opinion on a few items: What is your recommendation in regards to the use or non use of a plenum? <Some good, some not... I'd rather put plenums in a separate sump (for ease of manipulation) than a main/display system...> In addition to the main returns I have 4 maxi-jet 1200 powerheads which will be controlled via the red-sea pro wavemaker. What are your suggestions for placement of these heads in the tank? <Crossing each other in pairs toward the middle from upper or lower corners> Would dosing the tank using Kalkwasser in the top off tank when evaporation occurs be appropriate? <Possibly... only at night, in areas of rapid mixing... I'd rather encourage you to look into and either build or buy a calcium reactor.> Does the plan for the bio-load seem reasonable for the equipment I have listed or is there something you would recommend at this stage of the game? Would the hardware that I have allow me to advance to the more advanced corals as my expertise grows with minimal additions (i.e. calcium reactor,) or is there something else I should think of purchasing or upgrading now? <Should be okay... with lots of healthy live rock, and a few months break-in...> Thanks for you time. Sincerely, Jason Godfrey <Much more to chat over as time goes by... looking forward to it. Bob Fenner>

Tank setup Bob, Thank you for your previous reply to my questions about a tank setup for lionfish. I have a couple of follow-up questions that I was hoping that you could answer. You recommended Clear for life and Tenecor's products for wet-dry filters. I have never heard of Clear for life--do they have a website or an 800 number? <Both do... have you used your search engines today? Sort of sounds like a Billy.G ad, eh?> Also, you recommended Euro-reef knock offs as being good protein skimmers. What, exactly, are these Euro-reef knock-offs or are you referring specifically to the Euro-reef line? <The G-2's made by the Chuas of All Seas Marine, specifically... not sold directly to the end user> Also, will the needle-driven protein skimmers affect the water temperature of the tank? <Interesting question... I bet they do... minimally... the contactor columns are generally thick as aquarium acrylic> Speaking of temperature, what is your philosophy regarding gearing the aquarium temperature to the ocean temperature of the fish's region of origin? <Cooler is better> (I've heard that for some fish 78 is too high and for others it is too low, based upon where in the world they come from. <Yep> Where would the various species of lionfish fit on this temperature spectrum?) <The subfamily Pteroinae if that's what you're limiting the common appellation to are broadly tropical... low seventies to mid-eighties F.> Also, I'm planning on going acrylic for my large 200+ gallon tank. In your opinion what are some of the better manufacturers/deals out there? <For stock dimensions, sizes? SeaClear/Tradewind/Casco, Tenecor, Clear For Life...> Finally, do you happen to know of anyone doing research on the lionfish species or anyone who has attempted larger lion-only tanks? <Not currently... you can use a/the big library to find out who is who in the past... and try contacting them... Maybe FishBase... ICLARM's fab tool for ref.> I sure appreciate your time in answering all of these questions and look forward to your reply. Michael Krogman <Be chatting, Bob Fenner>

Cycling with Damsels I set up my 50gal tank about 7 - 8 weeks ago. I started with 6 small damsels to begin the cycle. With regular monitoring of the water I noticed I had low nitrite levels that seemed to remain constant. Into about the fourth week I added a white tailed humbug, nearly twice as large as the damsels, and two similarly sized clowns. The nitrite level remained at the bottom of the scale for the next couple of weeks. With the fish doing well and nitrites low, nitrates low, no ammonia I added two Tangs two days ago both several times lager than the damsels. The nitrite level went to the top of the scale today, nitrate is a low 10, no ammonia. Question: Do I do a water replacement, and if so how much, or do I wait for the water to cycle? Also, I do have a tap water deionizer/purifier that is supposed to remove any nitrites, nitrates etc. Please respond soon. Thanks <Yikes, you've gone a little "too much, too fast" in adding so much livestock to a system that has not cycled completely. If it were me, I'd have held off on adding anymore than the initial damsels (and would probably have only used three at that). At this point, yes, I'd make a large water change, about half if you have the facilities to make up that much water. And do hold off on feeding the fishes anything until the nitrites have dropped to zero (this should happen within a few days). Otherwise, be prepared to make other massive water changes if your nitrites exceed one ppm (part per million). The tap water treatment device is only useful for rendering your source/mains water free of the stated materials. It will do nothing to reduce the amount of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate that arises in your aquarium. These materials come about from your adding foods and they in turn being processed by microbes and your livestock in your system. Bob Fenner>

Returning to Marine Dear Bob, I have recently decided to take up the hobby of maintaining/enjoying a reef tank again. About 5 years ago I had a 115 gallon DAS reef system. Although I never really had any serious problems, I wouldn't say that I had surpassed the stage of "novice". Anyway, I would really like to once again start a reef community. I need help!! There are so many options/opinions out there now. I don't even know where to begin. <You're doing it... investigating, judging your possibilities> I have read over your Q & A for the last two months. And it seems too me that you are quite proficient and knowledgeable in the marine community. Could you make any recommendations on what I should/shouldn't buy to start up. <Difficult to state... depends on your ambitions, tolerance for tinkering versus expenditure... "many roads"... I definitely would keep "looking" till I had a comfort level... ahead of purchasing anything> I really need quite a bit of advise. I.E. what kind of water to start with, wet/dry (which looks like you don't really recommend), what kind of filtration, UV, protein skimmer, circulation, live rock, lighting, what process should I take to cycle the tank, etc..... basically everything. Also, if you have a book that you think would be beneficial to me please let me know. I am willing to take the time to do it right. But, I'm not willing to throw thousands of dollars down the drain just to end up frustrated and mad. HELP!!! Dustin <Please take a long look through the materials stored on this site: www.WetWebMedia.com... you have very good, long-range questions... best answered by yourself through an understanding of underlying principles and a review of what's available commercially... read, and we'll talk. Bob Fenner>

55 gallon Plenum-type setup Bob, I have written you in the past, and you recommended to upgrade to a larger aquarium. Well, I have finally purchased a 55 gallon Oceanic aquarium. <You and your livestock won't regret this investment> I am going to make this a home for my Picasso Trigger, Niger Trigger, and Snowflake Moray Eel. I am also going to have about 20lbs of live rock in it. ( Will this be too much livestock?)<Right about the limit> I am getting ready to set this up, and I had a friend recommend something for floor filtration. Here is a little diagram of what he said to do. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 inch of crushed coral screen -> ------------------------------------------- 1 inch of live sand <Make this two inches and larger grade> screen -> ------------------------------------------- Egg Crate (Like you would use on a ceiling light) Is this something that works efficiently? Would a undergravel filter work better? <No this is a good, plenum-type arrangement> I will be using the following for filtration and lighting. Eheim 2217 Canister Protein Skimmer Penguin Bio-Wheel 1 20,000 Kelvin Coral-Life Light 1 Actinic Blue light. Will that be sufficient filtration and lighting? <Yes, but I might upgrade the Eheim to a larger size> Also, I have read that Triggers don't like a lot of current, so should I worry about Powerheads to build current? Thanks again Bob, Ryan <You're certainly welcome, Bob Fenner>

Re: salt water set up Thanks for the reply and as for all the expense, I have all ready found that out!! ha ha. There should be some proven set up that work and everyone should not have to experiment to find out what will work. You always can shop for the equipment to find the best price but first you have to know what to get. You should of received a note from me all ready on the topic and the frustration that I have run into. Every shop is and expert but they all want to sell you something different. Sorry to bother you with my frustrations so I will close again I say thanks. Carl JR. <I understand the frustration... A large field, much arcane terminology, and more than a "wild west" mentality to the many (opposing, opposed, derogatory) opinions of so many folks... But in all humility, the frustrating (unknown, challenging) aspects of the interest are part of the intrigue for me... Beyond the beauty, and engaging involvement of this huge part of our real world... Keep your eyes on the prize. There are many sources of even-handed help in captive aquatics... reach out to their open hands. Bob Fenner>

New set up Hi again, I did look at web site but all it did was confuse me.! I found where people had all sizes of tanks and problems but I still have no clue what is needed to set up the tank with out trial and error. I, as I said before, do not want to spend a life savings and still have to experiment with different equipment or still be wrong. You would think that there would be a easier way to do it!! Every article I read try's to sell you something different or what's on sale!! I sort of know what it takes or what salt water tank needs but to find the right and only the necessary equipment is still not in my reach. Its only a75 gal- but should be big enough and enough verity to keep my interest as will as the kids and learn something. Will If you have time and can help get back. Thanks again Carl jr. <Hmm, well... I have nothing to sell you... but can offer you direction and possibly inspiration... but this will be a long, drawn out process... as you'll soon understand... if we have to go back and forth re the possibilities (there is/are no one "best" way to go with "how", "what" to use for keeping so many different types of systems, and diversity of life as shallow water marines.... Maybe a good book is in order? For a small sum of money, such tools do save many times their cost in money, frustration, and lost livestock... Would you like a list or specific recommendation for standard reference works? Reef, or general marine? Are you a technical or more of a hands-on person? Looking for something good-looking in a book, or just information? You're welcome to put in descriptive terms in the on-line bookstores for a comparable suggestion... this is the route I would go: study first, review your choices with others, be an informed consumer. Bob Fenner>

Patience is the key I really appreciate your web site. My printer is on over time with all the info I am reading!! I really really want to be informed on what I am doing. We started a tank about 2 years ago, unfortunately my local pet shop just sold the stuff to me warning me only about salinity and ph. We used one strip light with a regular plant-aquarium light. We had ( in a 55 gallon)15 pounds of live rock, a blenny, 3 green Chromis, a mandarin goby (dragonet?) <yes> a clown, a wrasse, yellow tang, assorted damsels, -you get the idea. Needless to say, we suffered an inexplicable complete loss. So, I appreciate your treatment of the hobby and how much you stress PATIENCE. That (I am convinced) is the key to complete "tank happiness!" <Ah, yes, a scarce commodity, even in such a beautiful, relaxing "hobby" as marine aquarium keeping. Bob Fenner>

RE: Is this set up ok?? 125 gallon Hi, I really appreciate what you do for the hobby. I can see that in reading your Q&A archives that you are not bias or recommend the most expensive FISH or ITEMS. <Thank you for this mention... If I am prejudiced (from the Latin "pre" "judicia", meaning "to judge before") it is in favor of the planet, and human experience as a subset... to help others... in their choosing of the most appropriate, best available technologies/gear, and most likely to survive livestock, info. on set-up, maintenance... very glad this shows> I have been keeping African cichlids for 10 years. I am ready to jump into the Saltwater experience. I set up a 125gall tank I used the plenum method 2" plenum, 2" of 2mm aragonite, and to top it off 3-4 mm of aragonite and 1/2 inch of crush coral, I seeded my tank with 40 pounds of live sand. and 85 pounds of live rock. I also use: 2 power heads on each end the Hagen 802, a Fluval 403 and a hang on filter. for lighting I am using 6 36" bulbs (2 actinic) -(2 50/50) - (2 10,000k) its only about 240 watts . I plan on making it a reef tank. What would you recommend that's looks nice and are hardy? <Hmm, no protein skimmer? I would get/'use one, add more live rock, and definitely boost the amount/wattage of your lighting (soon)... Livestock wise? Please read over the survey articles on Marine... and Reef Livestock Selection, and many organism-group articles, book sections, images I have placed on the site: www.WetWebMedia.com to come to your own conclusions... Some of the soft corals, polyps, colonial anemones/zoanthids are a good start for your setting> Should I use soft corals or hard corals? I really don't want to use a protein skimmer or a wet dry system or UV 25watts. I do have that equipment in my closet. If you say I have to use it, I will use it. <Soft, and I'd put this gear on (maybe leaving out the wet-dry plastic media... or taking it out if/when nitrates become a problem) if I had it... definitely the skimmer... If you're willing to pour the gunk it removes back in your tank, I'd be amazed> I use R/O water for the make and coral life salt. Is that good salt? <Not in my opinion... a disappointingly inconsistent product... some/no calcium at times... I'd switch to something in the Instant Ocean, Tropic Marin "A" manufacturer categories if it were my reef tank... no sense scrimping on this crucial component> What salt should I be using? Everything tests ok at this time it has been cycling for 6 weeks. I planned on adding fish and invertebrates , and coral in 3 waves. 1.Wave: 2 cleaner shrimp, 20 hermit blue leg crabs, 1 flame scallop, <Skip on this species, Lima scabra... they don't live for very long...> 1-3 peppermint shrimp,1 emerald crab,1 blue Linckia starfish, 1 anemone crab, 1 anemone shrimp, 1 coral banded shrimp, and 20 snails. 6 WEEKS LATER ADD WAVE 2 2 Corals about 12-15 diff. types Don't have a clue. What corals do you recommend for 240 watts? <Only non-scleractinians... i.e. no "true or stony" corals... and have my personal faves of other stinging-celled organisms generally available... detailed at WWM site> Can I keep any type of Clam? <Not really... too little light...> 6 WEEKS LATER ADD WAVE 3 3. 1 Sohal tang, 1 purple tang,1 blonde Naso, 1 flame angel, 1-3 ? <3>decora fire fish, 1 true perc clown, 1 saddleback clown, 2 pearly Jawfish <Use these OR the Firefish, not both, insufficient "bottom space">, Copper band butterfly. I do plan on adding reef complete twice a week and other additives (iodine, calcium, ph buffers, Kalk, etc ) <Study up on these... depending on brands, component compounds, they will NOT mix, will precipitate each other... do get/use test kits if you're going this/supplement route... and do delve into the best alternative approach... a calcium reactor> Is this set up ok? How can I improve it ? Is my tank going to be over crowded? would the clown fish do well by themselves or do I add a anemone or in groups of 3? <Plan with some/stated recommendations is workable... No to the Anemone at this juncture> Is 10% water change good monthly? <Probably... five percent a week would be better, with pre-mixed seawater...> Can I add more Invertebrates? OR FISH? <Maybe at some later time... go slow... you are soon to be on a very steep learning/discovery curve... Much to digest here and now> IT would be greatly appreciated if you can please e-mail me with your recommendations for stocking? How many of each items and I want to diversify my invertebrates. not 10 or 5 of the same species. Thank you for taking the time to answer all our questions. When is your next book out? HC <When can scratch together monies for production... what do you think should come next (Fishwatcher's Guide to Tropical Marine Aquarium Fishes just out last year...), Best Livestock for Your Marine Aquarium (separate vol.s for Fishes, Non-Fishes: algae, live rock, sand, non-vertebrates), Best Livestock for Your Reef Aquarium (same divisions)... The Conscientious Reef Aquarist, The Conscientious Aquarist (freshwater), The Aquarium Gardener (planted, i.e. real freshwater aquariums)? The last three are "written"... Bob Fenner>

Marine Stocking Bob, My question for you is: What formula should I follow for adding fish to my reef tank? I know that there is so much more going on in a reef tank that the old inches to gallons don't hold true in a reef system. <No formula... intelligence, intuition... re metabolism, average maximum size, metabolite build-up effects, orders of introduction, foods/feeding/nutrition needs/conflicts...> I have a 72 gallon bow front oceanic with a Custom Sea Life ABS Power Compact hood, a Bak Pak II skimmer, a Tidepool II system flowing through the silent overflow box, and three Aq Sys powerheads for circulation. My return pump is a Mag Drive 5, but I am considering upgrading my flow rate through my sump. Do you have any success stories with higher flow rate pumps? <Many... do you want a magnetic drive pump? or will a direct drive do? For a 72 I'd go with the former (still)... the fractional horsepower directs' are too big (flow, pressure wise)... Maybe a larger SC (semi-corrosive) Little Giant series...> Livestock in my tank? I have a medium Yellow tang, a lawnmower blenny, a coral banded shrimp, sally lightfoot, several tufts of grape Caulerpa, and about 90 pounds of liverock. Besides the hair algae that the lawnmower eats, what else should he be eating? or what can I feed him? So far, he hasn't touched any of the frozen stuff I put in the tank. <Nothing much else... this is why I suggest only one to a good-sized, established system> That's about it for now, as always, thank you for answering my questions. Sincerely, Matthew Smith <You're welcome, Bob Fenner>

Couple o' questions Hello Bob: I am hopefully going to be in the process of upgrading my 55 FO to a 90 gallon semi reef. 1. Is the Tidepool filter, along with 90 lbs of live rock from FFExpress a good combination? What three filter media do you recommend putting in the TidePool? (carbon, Nitrex,?) Anything you can tell me about the TidePool (good/bad) would be greatly appreciated. <Yes, a good product... many parts well thought out, constructed... media? Dacron polyester padding for mechanical filtration, Siporax Beads or Ehfi-Mech ceramic for anaerobic denitrification and live rock... and a light above.> 2. Is it bad for the live rock if you get it shipped 2nd day delivery. I know that I will be ordering it from FFExpress, so can you tell me will this hurt anything....will any life that dies NOT grow back. I would like to get it second day to save some money, and I am not too worried about letting it cycle in my tank before I add fish. <Very little is damaged, will not grow back from another day's sojourn... much more depends on how the rock has been collected, processed, stored... and how long it has already been in transit... before being sent on its last leg to you> 3. Will the Power Compacts from FFExpress be sufficient for a decent reef set-up in a 90 gallon. I want to try to get the 4x96 Watt PC's. I was told that power compacts are really good and that you can actually multiply the wattage output by two.....so, would these 384 Watts really be 600+? <Yes and the former value, 384> 4. Does the live sand that you order from FFExpress contain life that you can actually see? Or, is it all microscopic? Do you recommend getting live sand? If you have live sand should you NOT vacuum it out for fear of ruining the bio filter part of it. <Some is macroscopically appreciable... but not much... Am a bigger fan of buying "some" live sand and disbursing this on top of established "Aragonitic" (carbonaceous) material/substrate... the live rock will contribute living things as well... And I'm of the "vacuum" and occasionally stir school>> I know this is a lot of questions, but I want to do this right the first time. Please take your time answering the questions and provide as much detail as your time allows. I realize you are not getting a dime from me for this, so I want you to know all info you provide is GREATLY appreciated. Respectfully, Harold <Bob Fenner, who does try to be thorough, and answers about as clearly and concisely as can (for broad, who knows where these queries/responses will/may turn up... hence the need/use at times of scientific names...) and is compensated>

Need some help (Undergravel filter, substrate, salt brands) Hey Bob How much substrate do I need on the bottom of the 105 tank? It is 48"x18"x28" with internal overflow. I am going to use the Fiji sand aragonite. because of the extra buffering capacity. <An inch or two for looks, function... about 150 pounds... unless...> But should I use an undergravel filter. Maybe I should use an undergravel just under the rocks with a power head to pull water through or should I use the undergravel under the entire tank or should I not use one at all? <Depends... I wouldn't use one as such... but maybe as a ready plenum for a denitrator... If the latter, would place a fiberglass screen barrier twixt the filter plate's) and the gravel... maybe a couple of layers (take a look at the diagram on plenums stored at the site, www.WetWebMedia.com for more... under the name "Plenum"> Which is better Instant ocean sea salts or Reef Crystals Sea salts? <Both excellent products by Aquarium Systems... Reef Crystals is marginally better than Instant Ocean for reef aquarium use.> Kevin Johnson <Bob Fenner>

Water quality, Protein Skimmer, Ich & Dips I have lived in Nevada for approx. 4 years and twice I have had BAD luck with a FO saltwater tank. Previously I had lived in Northern California with no problems maintaining the tank. My LFS says it is the water quality but from reading some of the past archives, I find that hard to believe. <Me too... glad you have the character to not give up> I have set up my tank for the third go round! My ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate are all non detectable (i.e., do not even register a color using Sea Test tests, except for ammonia which does turn slightly green, but registers as 0.0). My pH is at 8.0, but again from past archives you have said that adjustments may not be necessary at this level. I have a Amiracle trickle filter, keep my temp at 80, specific gravity at 1.026, use chlorine remover and Amquel, run a whisper 5 and Magnum HOT which I fill with Chemi-pure and Purigen. I have never used a protein skimmer, but have recently ordered a Berlin regular and 3mdc pump. <You won't be disappointed... when you see the gunk this tool removes you'll be amazed you never used one before> Question is this.... I have had problems with Ich, flukes and the like in the past in addition to hole in the head and lateral line problems. I have used the standard treatments that were effective when I lived in California such as Cupramine, Maracyn and the Awful Methylene Blue/Formaldehyde combo (fumes burns my eyes when I put it in the water, so I never use it unless I need to Pull Out All the Stops). During the second set up I purchased and installed a titanium probe and began feeding vitamins in frozen food and seaweed sheets. All to no avail. I always run Chemi-pure, poly filters (about 6 currently), Purigen, and renew. I also have done freshwater dips and use a quarantine tank (have to admit not on a regular basis only with fish that seem susceptible to the above mentioned problems). <Do use the dips, quarantine religiously...> What else can I do to stop these problems? <Use that skimmer, add some live rock, look into algae/mud filters...> Is it really the water? Was it the local fish store's fish (my last order was through FFExpress)? <Who can say? Perhaps> Is sea test a good brand? Should I be using a different brand of tests (I am almost out of test regent anyway)? <They are okay, accurate and precise kits for home use... many wholesalers use them...> Is the Berlin going to last awhile or do I need something different (I think I could still stop the order)? <It will last many years... empty the cup out, and clean the contact chamber and collection cup once a month... that's it> Lastly, I would like to know how many neon Gobies and pacific cleaner shrimp I should add for a 100 gal tank. <Two of each> Thank you for your help. <You're welcome, Bob Fenner>

Hospital/Quarantine Tank First....then Main Tank I've read your book about 4 times), and all the archives. So I'm off and running with you by my side. <Wowzah, you're reading my stuff more than me> I set my hospital tank up yesterday. 55 with wet/dry and two Vita Lite bulbs. In about a month I'll set up a 130 main tank.(68x24x18) I can still change the second two dimensions if you see a reason. <Looks fine> Questions are: 1. I'm confused on something you told someone. Make sure I understand. I should use an ozonizer instead of a UV in both tanks? I noticed the Coralife Electronic Ozonizer had a bulb in it, and I think you said did the same plus more than a UV. Is this one a good choice? <Hmm, both can be good additions to otherwise well-filtered systems... and a good UV does produce appreciable ozone... and both can be put on "later". The Coralife unit is okay, the Sander's is better...> 2. I will be putting cured LR in the main tank. Any reason to put at least some of it in the hospital tank until it's set up? I don't plan to buy any fish or inverts until mid June when I return from vacation. Tanks should be nice and aged by then! <Yes, IMO, for the curing effect it has on the new livestock... as well as itself> 3. How do you tell a good calcium reactor? Any brand recommendations? <Hmm, mainly I would say from the opinions of others who actually use them. The KNOP products are excellent in the features they employ...> I appreciate your input as always. I really want to do this right the first time. Thanks, Steve <And I appreciate your friendship, participation in the hobby and this forum, thank you. Bob Fenner>

New Tank (Lace Rock & When to start Skimming) Hello, I have recently set up my marine tank. Tank was set up one month ago. Crushed coral substrate and salt two weeks ago. Domino damsel, Clown, one small shrimp, and about ten pounds of live rock within the last few days. I am constantly checking things over and everything has been ok so far. I have had freshwater tanks for 6 years, but this is my first salt). My question has several parts, 1)Am I rushing too much? I realize the tank is going through cycling, I was told these fish would help. <Hmm, an "older" notion... the live rock by itself and waiting would have been better.... sort of akin to making you live in a house as it's being built, eh?> 2) I was hoping to use Lace rock for filling with little live rock mixed in. As well as some Anemones and Polyps. Does this sound like an expectable set up ? <Acceptable or as in exception to something? Hmmm. The live rock and Lace mixed would be fine... but do investigate the anemones a little more... they're not easy... The polyps are an excellent first invertebrate try> 3) I was told I would not need a protein skimmer for two to three months , Is this correct? <Not IMO... I would have started a system with live rock on a skimmer from the get-go... do keep an eye on your ammonia and nitrite in turn... It may well become obvious to you why my opinion is so... real trouble if/when the system is cycling w/o a skimmer if too much, too soon is going on with input of nitrogenous wastes... If your ammonia, nitrite spike too high (more than 1.0 ppm) do execute a large-dilution water change...> I have quite a bit of filtration. After reading some of the Q & A files I realize I do not have as much knowledge as I would like to have, <me either> so any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated. Thank You for your time. Glen <Always glad to help... maybe peruse the information stored at this site www.WetWebMedia.com... it may come in handy. Bob Fenner>

Cichlid to Marine I have a 155 gallon custom setup that I have run now for 8 years as an African Cichlid tank. The custom part of it is that it has a wet/dry trickle filter built into the back of the actual glass of the aquarium. I am looking to make my third attempt at saltwater fish, but his time with this larger setup. I have tried and been discouraged twice with small tanks. <Bigger is indeed better... more stable, more flexible> I don't mind doing monthly water changes, and managing filter media, but other than that I have enjoyed the ease and relative low maintenance of the African Cichlids. I don't really like test kits and have just used my nose to correct any water quality issues that would rarely happen. I have been able to tell quickly and not have a problem with freshwater tanks. My pH had just always been regulated by the crushed coral substrate. Every time I tested it, it was right on so I stopped worrying about it years ago. I suppose I will need one of those salinity bobbers, but do I really need to use test kits? <Yes, your nose won't work with what you need to know to avoid problems with marine set-ups> I have various light fixtures that are not cooled with any type of fan fixture, but are just standard tank lights that I have picked up used for the most part. I have six of them on the top of this tank in varying sizes. I have three Fluval 4 submersible filters that I use in this tank to create some surface movement, and I normally have a H.O.T Magnum cartridge filter on it as well. I am mainly interested in the fish of a saltwater setup, but have heard that live rock and a general reef setup is nice for housing these fish. I am most interested in keeping some type of Lionfish and maybe a few other medium to large fish. I know that they eat various invertebrates and such, and I'm not really worried about that. The tank already has a thin scattering of crushed coral rubble on the bottom and lots of large lace rock boulders that I would like to keep. I was thinking of adding perhaps one to three pieces of live rock to this environment that would be at least 24" tall or larger. I don't know if you can even get live rock that large, but I wanted it to be comparable to the lace rock pieces I have in there. I figured I would let the life on those rocks spread throughout the tank to the rest of the rocks. <Good idea to add the live rock... and ask your dealer if they can/will special order larger pieces for you> Like I said, I am mainly just interested in a good environment for the fish. I think I have filtration basically covered for fish life (except a protein skimmer that I hear you need) and I was not really worried about any invertebrate life, although whatever came on the live rock would be fine with me. 1. I guess the first major question I need to solve for my setup would be if I need to upgrade the lighting? <Maybe... you should provide full-spectrum lighting... and your lamps could be "too old" though still emitting light... If they're more than eight months used... replace them... The intensity of six lamps will do for a fish only, some live rock set-up> I don't relish the idea of spending three to four hundred dollars on each light fixture as I have seen. My tank is roughly three feet deep, three feet wide, and six feet in length I think. 2. I read that canister filters are not good for saltwater tanks. I had hoped that perhaps this would help make up for my lack of a protein skimmer as I really don't have the funds for that right now either. <Canister filters are fine for fresh and marine tanks... Save up and get a good protein skimmer (about $200...) will save you much more than that in saved livestock, water change costs, enjoyment of your system...> 3. When I convert from fresh water to salt water, I assume the tank will need to recycle. Is it beneficial to leave the fresh water nitrifying bacteria in place, or should I clean out and sterilize everything before converting the tank? <Clean out is fine, sterilization unnecessary... The microbes present will not be... marine ones are "different"> 4. I know that Lionfish will require marine type predator diets and not just feeder fish. If I should want to include herbivore tank mates that are larger than the lion fish's mouth, how would I approach feeding the tank? The Lionfish may end up eating plant material, and the herbivores may end up eating meaty foods too rich in proteins right? <Lionfishes are not herbivores... but may consume any fish small enough to fit in their mouths> Should I try to only stock one type of eating requirement? I was thinking that I like those bright yellow tangs, or also the blue hippo regal something or other that I read about. I was also thinking of adding a porcupine puffer fish, but I think those are the same basic dietary needs as the Lionfish. <Do investigate your stocking possibilities further... there are some "selection" articles archived at the previously mentioned URL... These animals have different diets...> 5. Would there be a benefit to eventually add live sand? How much should I add? <Not in your case... your current sand will become somewhat "live" from materials derived from the live rock. Bob Fenner>

In-the-wall Tank QUESTION: I am building a new home an want a large reef tank in the wall between the hall and the family room. I have allotted a space that would accommodate a 96x36 footprint, so I am thinking about a 96Lx30Wx24H tank. The shops that I have been planning have various opinions, all I am sure, that will fill their greed not my need. My insanity and desire to have such a large tank has produced quite a few questions. 1. Should I go with acrylic? Shop owners/fabricators state that I would be better off with an acrylic tank in 3/4" to 1" thick material. what do you recommend? <Hmm, this is a tough one... Okay, if you live in a part of the world where there's a "whole lotta shaking going on" like California, I definitely would go with the acrylic. Ditto for if you think you might ever want to move (I know this is your new home... but you are aware of the historical figures... folks do move...). The cost for both will be about the same... but I would be tempted for this size custom tank to go with glass... and of course, do your big homework ahead of time... so overflows, through-puts can be cut before it is assembled... Can you fit this tank in the door... as in get enough bodies around it to get it through the doors, corners?> 2. I understand that certain triggers, if not all of them, will enjoy scratching my new tank. Must I refrain from the trigger family? This is not a terrible negative, I really want Tangs and clown fish for the most part. How many fish would you eventual work up to? <Hmm, nah to the problem of triggers scratching acrylic tanks... but I wouldn't trust any of the species in my reef tank carte blanche... And let's see, where's my calculator... this is two hundred eighty/ninety volume/gallons... maybe ten nice fish... depending on size, temperament. 3. I know that certain species must be kept in pairs, as individuals, or odd large numbers. In such a large tank would the same rules apply? (i.e. Yellow Tangs, Purple Tangs, and Amphiprion Percula) <even more so in some cases... but with size comes flexibility in assortments, arrangements... your chance to put together your dream assortment> 4. One shop owner stated that 1-2lb live rock per gallon is fine (his focus is on esthetics) while another (the fabricator) stated that 3-4lbs of rock is essential. I plan to use a wet/dry sump without media balls and a heavy duty protein skimmer. What is your opinion? <Both these numbers are reasonable... for functions sake... as well as aesthetics... depending on density, shape... highly variable... do look around for the big box/volume deals with a tank this size... cure it all in place... for a good two months... I know, it's a while...Get the tank fabrication and carpentry/stand folks going... and keep your eyes open for the bulk rock deals FFExpress runs> 5. What type of lighting would you use in a 24" deep tank? Again, some say there is a specific watt to gallon ratio that one must abide by. I am willing to afford a Metal Halide set up, but I want what would be best. (this, of course, spawns more sub-questions) <Probably a combination of metal halides and actinic compact fluorescents... but all compact fluorescents (actinic, about 10k and some 20k temperature lamps) would do in a 24" deep tank, save you some moolah on cooling...> a) How many, and what size metal halides? <IMO, five staggered (two to the front, three to the back) 175s> b) Do I really need special timers? Moon phase stuff? <Not really, but I would place them all on timers, have the actinics come on an hour or so ahead, go off an hour or so after the rest... the 20k's on for four to six hours of the "mid-day" (you can adjust this all for the times you're most likely to be home)...> c) Is alternate lighting, actinic, VHO or another type of light needed? <IMO, yes, the actinics... look into compact fluorescents... a dual/lamp for both the front and back, with the MH's to the center of them> d) I live in South Carolina and have been told a chiller is a must, what size? <Probably a good half horse model to be safe... look for "draw down" ratings offered by the manufacturers/dealers... and give yourself another 25% leeway.. see my friend John Epp's chart about this at: http://www.aquanetics.com/chil-size.htm> 6. Finally, I had a small marine tank (20 gal hex with damsels) when I was 14. All worked well, shoot the fish even lived a time! I am 32 now and I know the industry has developed far enough to excuse the beginner and forgive error. However, this will be my first reef tank. Do you think I have a shot at success? <Very good... not only is the gear better nowadays, the livestock is far (for the most part) hardier on arrival... And you're much better to boot! Also, the larger the system the better... far more stable...> I have a solid understanding of biology, chemistry, and water quality. ( I was a dialysis bio-tech manager and now a medical professional). Do I seem a fool when I say that I could pull this off without testing the water (no pun intended) on a smaller reef set up? <Nope... as you know, folks don't know much about their requisite blood chemistry... but they keep going nonetheless... I would however, get into the habit of regularly testing a few chemical, physical parameters... if not going the whole real time monitor/controller route with this investment> I would rather spend 8-10K on my "dream tank" than 3K on a smaller set up, that I would probably sell for a great loss. No, I do not have bucks to burn, but operating a breathtaking tank has been a life long dream. I would put the larger tank off, but in order to have the tank built in, I have to make a decision now. With Oceans of Gratitude :O), Clint Darby <Glad to be here... and we'll no doubt be talking. Bob Fenner>

Live Rock & Live Sand I recently send you an e-mail regarding miracle mud.. I have a 75 gal. which recently underwent a massive die off when our house was painted. I have the remaining inhabitants in a ten gallon aquarium. They consist of a bicolor blenny, a ghost goby, and 1 green reef Chromis. I am starting from base zero basically. The LR fouled and smelled very bad so I tossed it. <Is it really gone, or just out in the back? You might be able to clean it up... rinse it thoroughly with a hose... and use it for base rock... Put the new on top...> I am going to order 2 boxes of Manono live rock from FFE. <good stuff> I am going to try to plan my tank better than before so here is a list of what I hope to add after the LR cures. I also was going to add some Fiji live sand I was wondering if you had a recommendation on depth for a standard size 75. <three inches of sand, one inch plenum below (make with 3/4" pvc pipe, eggcrate above, fiberglass screen door material on top of this), one inch or coarser material next on top, then two inches of finer... with a layer of that screen door material between them... drawing posted at www.WetWebMedia.com> I really want to add a pair of ocellaris clown (any two juveniles will become a pair) I was going to add a bubble tip anemone for a host. <Wait a good three months before adding the anemone> I want to add a dwarf angelfish I was looking at a flame angel and/or a coral beauty. <I'd use a Flame... if a Coral Beauty, try to get one that hails from Fiji... beauties, hardy, and less likely (historically) to pick on stinging-celled animals> I also want to add a couple different types of tangs, I was thinking about A blue (hippo) Tang, a powder blue tang, or a red sea purple tang I also was going to add a Kole tang or a chevron. <Do dip and quarantine all these... I'd leave off with the Powder Blue personally> I also was going to add a clean-up crew, should I add it with the LR or after it, <After it has apparently/really cured... no ammonia, no nitrite> I was thinking about after but then I wondered about preventing algae blooms. I was wondering if you had any suggestions about this stocking. <A bazillion... you may want to walk yourself through my marine and reef livestock selection articles, sections of books by systematic review posted at.... www.WetWebMedia.com> I have two other questions about the aquarium. Should I order Fiji live sand or should I just buy a bag of aragonite sand and let the LR "seed" it. I am currently using a Sea Lab 28 block for supplements. I want to add a calcium reactor in the near future (less than 6 months) when I recover from the financial blow of restarting the tank. <A very good idea... and do get/use pH, alkalinity and calcium test kits...> I want to add some SPS and some other stony corals. I like the algae filter idea I am thinking about culturing caliper with some other substrate like sand and putting some LR down there too. I have 4 18 inch fluorescent tubes for the sump. I was wondering if you had any suggestions. I am also getting a Turboflotor skimmer. Thank you <So far, so good... Bob Fenner>

New Tank Ammonia Spike I am setting up a 75 gal reef for the first time. I had water at 1.022 , 77* F, with approx 80 lbs of base rock, RO water, skimmer in sump, for three days with no fish animals etc . Skimmer was producing lots of foam. As soon as I introduced 20 lbs of cured live rock and some snails , crabs, and four Damsels, the foam stopped .The next day I checked the ammonia level, it was high , so I did a 10% water change . Is this normal? What else should I be doing? Thanks Dave <Sounds quite normal... almost predictable. The organisms that were introduced by/on the live rock "used up" the materials that could be attracted by the air bubbles in your skimmer... and some part of the biota of/on the live rock is/was dying, contributing to the ammonia concentration... No worries... keep an eye on the ammonia (keep it under 1 ppm.) and don't feed your livestock if it is getting near there... all will self-straighten in a few days. Bob Fenner>

The ol' tank Bob: Got your book yesterday, and it is fabulous -- what great pix; super informative text. Well worth the money. On my 75 gallon tank, we have discussed before, in which I have 100 pounds of precured Pago rock since Jan. 5, I did a 25 gallon water change. Parameters now are: ammonia: less than .025 nitrates: about 10 ppm pH: excess of 8.6 alk: excess of 3.6 Of course these reading were taken only a short while after a water change (like 30 minutes). If the reading should stay in these ranges, what next? I have 1.5" green algae growing on about half the rocks (looks nice, all toughed up and blowing in the stream). If chemical parameters rise again, just do another water change? Help! Thanks. <Time to start stocking (as in live) with your cleaner upper crowd... I'd get a Salarias fasciatus (Lawnmower Blenny for sure...) and whatever else you plan on using... And yes to the big water changes again... if the nitrates shoot back up... Keep that skimmer clean... and maybe some activated carbon... and what about a denitrator of sorts? Bob Fenner>

How to start a Salt Water Aquarium I am very interested in starting a salt water aquarium. However, I am a little skeptical about it because I have read a lot about other aquarists' failures and how hard it could be to keep one in good health. I would like what or how I should start, for example, what type of equipment, what type of rocks or sand I should use and the fish I should put in a 55gal tank. I would also like to ask you if a wet/dry filter is a most in setting a SWT and would a filter that hangs from the back be as effective. I hope that you answer me soon! <Well, you've set upon the "marine aquarium great path"... just by being curious enough to inquire. Let's see if we can't whet/wet your appetite to go the next step. To answer some of your specific queries directly: a fifty five is a good size to start with. And a wet-dry filter is not necessary... or in my opinion (you're soon to hear many different ones...) desirable. You can do fine with "hang on the back types" of filtration, including a skimmer, aka a foam fractionator. Where I would really start is gathering more information/opinions about your options period: through reading (there are worthwhile books, magazines... bulletin boards, chat rooms on the Net... hobbyist groups, conferences... Most all of which can be found on or through the internet. Marine aquariums are not impossible, and simple ones with tough landscape are a breeze... even compared with some "medium hard" types of freshwater. As with their non-salt counterparts, what is required is intelligence (you obviously have that, you're participating in this forum!), selecting proper gear, careful set-up, livestock selection and maintenance... you'll soon be on the "pro" argument for marine aquarium keeping. Bob Fenner, who has a bunch of his old articles, book sections tree'd out at the www.WetWebMedia.com for your perusal.>

Switching to saltwater Hola, my name is Jose from Puerto Rico. I have always had freshwater aquariums and wish to adventure into saltwater. I stared with fish in a 29 gallon tank that recently broke. With the frame of that tank I made a 30" high tank with a built-in mini reef filtration system. I believe the tank comes up to 35 or 38 gallons. I am thinking of making a coral reef wall (bottom to top) and having some reef fish, as well as, invertebrates. In Puerto Rico, as you may know, the climate is always from 75 to 85 degrees. The tank will be placed in the bedroom were there is air conditioning from 9:00 pm to 5:00am. Please advice on what will I need to set up this tank. If what I have thought is not possible because of the size of the tank, then any ideas are welcome. Hope you can help. Thanks in advanced. Cheo <Thank you for writing, and salutations to our hobbyist friends in Puerto Rico. You are fortunate to have so many possibilities in collecting and selecting materials and livestock for your system... right where you live. For the movement of water, I would utilize a simple, powerful internal power filter... a few companies make these. Eheim has the best filters and pictures of them (www.eheim.com)... and a powerhead, or two for moving the water in and through your wet-dry system. I wouldn't be concerned about heat... due to the ambient temperature and size/stability of your system... And I would get a simple, complete compact fluorescent light/fixture to put over the top. This is all you really need to get started... with using rock and sand from the sea there, and gradually introducing livestock. Bob Fenner>

New reef I am interested in starting up a reef tank, probably 100 to 120 gallon. The acrylics that I have seen have the reservoir and skimmer built into the back of the tank the glass tanks have the reservoir, skimmer and all on the bottom. In your opinion would you go acrylic or glass and is there a difference from an efficiency or maintenance point of view with the filter skimmers etc on the back built in or on the bottom of the tank? Also which setup do you prefer? Thanks for your time and advise. <I like both glass and acrylic for main/display tanks for a few different reasons (the former for ease of cleaning... and beauty!, the latter for thermal insulation, keeping salt creep in place, ease of modification... and earthquake-proofed ness!), but definitely favor under, or even beside the tank over any attached/integral filtration... for ease of modification, maintenance... and real function... the "part of the back types" are feeble comparatively... Bob Fenner who thanks you for writing.>

Marine Aquarium Setup I am trying to eventually set up a reef tank and had a few questions. First I was wondering if you can have too large of a wet dry filter or too large a protein skimmer. The second question was where should I place the protein skimmer. With the protein skimmer pump drawing water from the tank or will it be effective if I have it hooked up to the return from the wet dry filter. That would save me from using another pump. Then how many power heads and what size should I get. I also was wondering how I should set up the gravel or sand on the bottom. I have heard that the best idea is to put a layer of marbles then a nylon screen then a layer of crushed coral then a double layer of nylon screen then a layer of fine sand. Each 1/2 inch thick. What would this accomplish and what do you suggest. Thanks very much for your time. Micah Smith <Lots of important questions, and a need for a bunch of information. My real suggestion is that you invest a little money and some very worthwhile time in reading over a couple or three of the standard works on general marine aquarium keeping... Then get on the internet sites that have folks chatting over marine/reef aquarium issues... and visit with other aquarists to gain your own understanding of how you want to go about setting up your system. This is by no means a cop-out or non-answer... there is simply no right/wrong response to your important queries... but a need for you to investigate further than we can provide "answers" here. If you don't mind, let me refer you to enjoy WetWebMedia.Com where I have stored many of my articles and sections of books on marine aquariums. Yes, you can/could use a wet-dry filter, and yes, you could place the skimmer there, and yes, you could use just one pump for both running it and recirculating... but I would use two... The arrangement you mention for the bottom, I wouldn't use marbles... Read on, my young friend in fish. Bob Fenner>

Plumbing Dear Bob, You have been so much help in the past with all of my aquarium problems. And with all the problems I've had, you may not believe that I want a bigger tank...but that is the case. We are preparing to build a new home and I would like to have a 300 gallon or so reef tank built into a wall. We plan on the tank having it's own water supply line and drain in order to facilitate water changes. We want to hook an RO machine up, which will go into a holding tank and automatically top off the tank each day with fresh water. I'll also want a holding tank for newly mixed salt water. My main question that I need to know as soon as possible since the plumbing will be laid out soon is this: Should I avoid all copper pipes that will be supplying the water for the aquarium? Even though I'll use an RO machine and add dechlorinator, should all plumbing associated with this tank be PVC only? Also, do you know of anyone who is available for consultation (for a fee of course) regarding the equipment and lighting that I will need? We contacted and even visited the guys down in Florida that you have mentioned in your book...but their labor and installation costs ran way too high, being that we are not in the Miami area. We were very much impressed with their tanks, but the price was just too much. If I had someone who could tell me the pieces of equipment that would be recommended and the proper sizing of this equipment, we think we could find the equipment and assemble the tank ourselves. I really do want a state-of-the art tank with an emphasis on minimal maintenance (ha ha, yeah, right). There really isn't a good fish store in our area, but there are lots of Internet dealers with pretty good prices on a lot of the equipment I think I'll need...I just need some guidance here. It would really be great if you would be willing to undertake this job, since I know to trust your advice. thanks for any help that you can give. Darsey Mitchell P.S. So far so good on the 55 gallon "monster". everything seems to be trucking right along! <I certainly do believe you want a bigger system. "Nothing succeeds like success", and folks who enjoy the living world are constantly looking for bigger challenges/experiences to engage themselves in and share... To answer your specific queries: Yes, do try to avoid copper piping in anything past the RO device, but don't be overly concerned with the house lines or the municipal. And yes, PVC (amongst other plastic possibilities) is the best, for cost, ease of installation. Use ball valves (not gates), and true unions where you deem that someday you might want to/need to disassemble a coupling (like right in front of your pumps). I will try to post my old pieces on plumbing (mainly in reference to ponds, but the same notions apply to marine set-ups) on the WetWebMedia.Com site for your (and all's) perusal. Please contact Jeff Turner of Oceans, Reefs and Aquariums (they're on the Net), and mention my name. If Jeff can't make it, please ask him for me, to refer you to someone else who is competent and honest to look over your project. Also, seek out other big tank owners (as the local retailers) and go visit their set-ups with a notepad... and take copious notes. Would greatly enjoy helping you put this system together (used to do this line of work for a couple of decades), but, alas, so many projects, so far away. But don't be discouraged. You've proven to be a sensible, intelligent, caring person. You can/will learn enough to make the "right" decisions (as in "nothing is decided till it's done") in this matter. And besides, I/we are here to help you along the way. Bob Fenner, who wishes you well.>

Power Outage Plan Do you have any suggestions, short of a generator, for dealing with possible power outages, particularly given the upcoming threat of Y2K? Thanks for your advice! Marilyn <Maybe an uninterruptible power supply (wish I had put all my money into investing in their stocks!) would be good for short term outages... I don't worry, and trust me, there is no such thing as a Y2K threat (other than hysteria from folks believing in such)... have seen the stock market, software trials for moving the dates ahead... not to worry. It will be just "another day". Go long on Home Depot (HD)! Bob Fenner>

Substrate I am getting ready to start up a 300 gal saltwater. It will not be a reef tank. Do you have any suggestions on how you would go about filling it initially. Do you have a preference on the type of crushed coral for bottom? This is in a main focal part of our home 8' long. Thanks...Melissa in Nashville. <By filling it initially do you mean the gear, decor or the livestock? I do have a preference (by L'Oreal?) for substrate size and type for this size system. I'd go with all about the same grade of about 1/4 inch diameter of a couple or so inches deep. Enough volume to appreciably improve water quality (buffering, bacterial culture) and also large enough to vacuum, while giving your livestock something to scrounge around in. Take a look at the various articles on the WetWebMedia.Com site for my overall ideas on the first question. Bob Fenner, who says... make sure the tank isn't too tall to work on, and who knows light in the future if/when you do convert it to a reef...>

Large Tanks Hate to ask of your time but need some advice. Setting up 5- 1000 gal tanks. Fish only. Have $100,000 to play with. Gonna link 'em of course, use farm supply for giant polypropylene, plumbing is no big deal, but questions: 1. You mentioned the brand name of an efficient, salt safe, heavy duty pump whose name escapes me. 2. How about a lead on big ozone, UV manufacturers? 3. Any books dealing with large systems? 4. Will you come help me scrape algae? I know I could/should do the research myself but you're so good at popping these things off the top of you're head I thought I'd ask. Thanks, Tommy C <No worries, TC. Looks like a fun project. 1.) Sequence Pumps, call Rod Talley and say hi for me (via the Net), or you can buy from our friend Phil Shane at Quality Marine... 2) About the only ozone and UV outfit I'd use for this gig is Sanders (out of Germany). Again Phil's outfit in Los Angeles sells these... Tunze is a good alternative (though also an expensive import)... There are some American folks who make okay UV's that also produce copious to significant amounts of O3, but if it were me, I'd link as many of these 1k systems together and get the serious Sanders gear... if moolah left over, look into a desiccator for the ozonizer. 3) Phil Escobal's take on engineering of the gear, Tunze's proprietary book(let) on the same issues... the former you should be able to find (from Aquatronics) or one of the Net-book stores. 4) Certainly, but I'd get a mermaid instead. Much better PR, not to mention attractive. Be seeing you, Bob Fenner>

Inappropriate Stocking, Now What? Well, trying to put it all together... set up a 55 gal tank and lost a lot of fish in the first 6th months, no one knew why. Tangs, Clowns, Wrasses - none seemed to survive. Well, finally switched to a Moray Eel, Niger Trigger, Grouper and some Anemones, Star Corals & Sea Urchins. Carnivores seem much more stable, but of course I am loosing all invertebrates. Anyway, question is "what do I do now"? The guys in my tank are no doubt going to become way too large (when?) and I really don't want to keep a 55 tank for a couple of fish. This must be a common problem - get into the live feeder mode and then there is no escape. Love your thoughts as to what to do. Ride it out as my guys get bigger and BIGGER, start over, or what. By the way, these guys do look REALLY cool... <Yeah, Sky, your situation is all too familiar, and I suspect a common path for "hobbyist burnout". What to do? I'd start all the way back, as in figuring out for yourself why you wanted (or what you wanted to get) out of your involvement in the hobby. And I wouldn't do it alone; I suggest you team up with another hobbyist or more and visit their set-ups, go to the livestock fish stores with them, and have a real one on one understanding of what your options are. Yes, the fishes you have are going to be getting too big for that 55. Yes, you can and maybe should trade them in at the LFS for credit and start with a more cohesive stocking plan. Do you have a spare/alternative system you can quarantine new livestock in? Did anyone ever explain how hard it is to keep non-fishes to you? Do you pre-mix your synthetic seawater for a week or more before use? Taking your apparent interest and concern and forming it into a plan of action is critical at this point. I would hate to lose you, and the folks you will help to enjoy themselves through an appreciation of the living aquatic world, for a lack of help. Bob Fenner>

Starting Over I have a 90 Gallon Tank that I set up about 5-6 years ago. I am considering redoing it, i.e. new live rock, filtration, etc. Right now, I use 2 reverse flow powerheads and 2 hang-on filters for a total water change rate of approx 1100 g.p.h. Is there any recommendations you can give me as far as the best way to set up a new livestock tank. I have gravel now Dolomite) and heard a glass bottom is better, or should I use a "live sand"? How much live rock would you use for a 90 gallon tank? Any advice on filtration? <All sorts, but this would take a day and more to relate. To start, your tank size, shape and composition is fine, and I would utilize the filters and water moving pumps you already have. In addition you should add a good sized skimmer. Live rock, I'm a big fan of the stock variety coming out of Fiji. Look for a deal to buy it by the boxful as you need a good two (about 160 nominal pounds). You can cure this all at once in your system... And I'd replace the dolomite at this time. This composite substrate (principally magnesium and calcium carbonates) gets "used up" in terms of ready alkaline reserve and surface area per unit volume with time... Replace it (if you want) with crushed coral of a grade that suits your livestock's purposes... Have you made a plan for the same? Otherwise, my real "advice" (in other words, what I would really do) is to invest your time and funds in finding out more fully what you can and want to do with this project. You're looking at a sizeable pledge of funds and time... do read a few good books, and peruse as much of the web for info. as you can take. You're welcome to bounce around our website WetWebMedia.Com for articles on different types of set-ups and specific topics on the issues you raise here. Bob Fenner>

Upgrading to Larger Tank I currently keep a 55 gal fish only tank. Current inhabitants: 4"Naso, 4 1/2" Hawaiian Black finned trigger, 3" Clown trigger. Current filtration: 2 power filters, Venturi skimmer, 25 watt Aquanetics UV, Hagen 400 power head. I plan on upgrading to a 125 or 150 and will keep Triggers and a couple of Nasos. What kind of filtration system would you suggest for the proposed setup? Triggers being somewhat messy, I would think mechanical filtration would have to be oversized. Also in regards to the All glass aquariums should I get one that comes with the built in overflows and do I need one on each side. Lastly, the box of live rock I ordered from FFE should be arriving today. Is a 40 watt Power Glo bulb enough to keep the algae growing? <Tom, I'd add a Berlin type filter with something in the way of an NNR system in it... a separate pumping mechanism for same, hook up your skimmer to the sump. If you can afford it, get a sizeable CF fixture to go on it for an alternate light/dark cycle. Only one Naso will fit in a/the 55. Wait till you get the larger system in place. You can get by with a larger sump, pump and just one intake combined and multiple returns on the larger tank. The 40W lamp is way too puny for the rock and the system. If you want regular output fluorescents, I'd put four such lamps in place (one or more should be 003, actinic equivalents)... or skip ahead to higher outputs, once again the compact fluorescents are my choice. Buy 'em or build 'em. Bob Fenner>

Skimmer Too Small? Fish Dying I have a 125 gal. tank that has been set up for about 1 1/2 years. It has a UV filter, Eheim canister, a wet/dry sump, several power heads and about 2-3 months ago I added a protein skimmer. When I bought the tank, I went with the recommendation of the fish store and got the wet/dry sump over the protein skimmer. After reading your book, and talking to another fish store, I bought the skimmer. My problem is keeping fish alive. I just lost a Juv. Imperator angel that I had for about a year. Prior to that, some fish would last a few days to a few weeks. The water always has tested OK except for the nitrate level, which has generally been around 60ppm. After I installed the protein skimmer, the level slowly came down to around 20ppm and I thought I was finally making headway on the problem. After the Imperator died, I checked the water again and it had climbed back up to around 40ppm. I have always done weekly or bi-weekly water changes of 15-20% using RO water. Help! I'm down to 3 fish that seem to be doing OK (2 tangs and an angel). I'm afraid to get any more fish. I'm wondering if the protein skimmer is too small. I empty the collection cup every few days of about a cup or so of liquid. I'm not sure what size the skimmer is, again I just went with the salesman's recommendation. In your book you state the wet/dry sumps are 'nitrate factories', am I spinning my wheels have both the sump and protein skimmer? Where do I go from here? <Andy, I sense and feel your pain. Re: the skimmer, does it produce "foam" continuously? It should not. Instead there ought to appear a sort of cyclicity with the unit gathering more and less during different parts of the day. But more to the point, no, you are not doing anything "wrong" by operating a wet dry and a skimmer (millions do). There are a few approaches that would get you big help, but the best (that will also drop those not-really-so-important nitrates down) is to add a good quantity of live rock. Buy a box or two of cured rock and write me in a month or two to tell us how it's all going. Bob Fenner>

School Tank Project Our marine biology class wants to take up a collection and start a volunteer 55 gallon tropical aquarium. If we all donate $5.00 we'll have $150.00 to spend. We already have the tank and aerator so we are looking for suggestions. <Oh yes, definitely. Did my stint as a H.S. Sciences teacher myself... For the money, I'd invest in a couple of sturdy and large outside hang-on-the-back type filters and one of the "complete" pump and skimmer combo. Foam fractionators (this will easily eat up your one and a half century notes, but not to worry). For that not-so-princely sum, you really can't get too involved in lighting, other fancy schmancy mechanicals and controllers, but you don't need them. Can you get permission for a field trip to take some of the students out to collect local marines? Get on the Internet or have some of the folks at your school district's Tech. Support (or other fancy title) dept. contact the powers that be in your state to point out collecting laws, techniques, sites, and maybe even give you a hand instructing your "Marine Aquarium Club" members on the how and why of appropriate collection... and get on out there! Gimme a ring back for particulars as the program progresses. Bob Fenner>

Cycled but need to slow down I recently got a 37gal Eclipse3 tank. In addition to the Eclipse3 wet-dry filter, I added a Sea Storm 100 fluid bed filter with a MaxiJet 1000 (950 l/h handling) and a medium Coralife protein skimmer. I started the tank the day after Christmas, as instructed by my Marine Aquarium handbook. Day 2 I added a mix of 5 Damsels (2 yellow tailed blue, and 3 domino) On day 3, two of my dominos lay gasping on their sides in the bottom. I had to give them the Urban Burial if you know what I mean. The other 3 fish were stressed pretty bad. Rapid gilling and noted agitation. I tested my water and did what I could, and the rest of the fish have survived since. since I'm new at this I made the number one mistake of over feeding and wound up last week with a bloom of brown algae and some kind of white foamy stuff ( I thought were damsel eggs at first until I thought about it). I've been testing my water ever since day one and my levels haven't changed much.... no cycle that I can tell. Getting impatient, I made the trek to the local pet store and picked up 10 lbs of Fiji live rock, 6 blue leg hermits, 2 emerald crabs, and 2 brittle stars. All hopefully good foamy white, and brown algae eaters. The hermits have done a nice job of cleaning the coral gravel bottom. The real question I have here is my nitrogen cycle. My ammonia levels haven't budged. But I've had detectable NO2 and NO3 levels all along. (Ammonia runs between .5 and 1 ppm, NO2 runs from .2 or .3 ppm, and NO3 is a solid 10ppm). I did use a BioChem Bead seed that the pet store had in an aquarium for a month already. So what's going on with my cycle? Is it possible I've just lucked into an equilibrium ? I realize I've got a ton of bio filtration going on, the BioChem bead are in the charcoal filter bed of the eclipse and the Sea Storm is cranking. Could this be taking care of my ammonia ? If so where are the Nitrogen based by products going? <Wow Raleigh, you're having the bacterial biological warfare blues and how! At this point, please take a breather of about a month before doing anything further than just routine maintenance (no more critters). Your system and filtration additions are adequate for doing what I think you have in mind... and what happened/is happening is not to be unexpected... it is, as stated above, a blend of successions of new, opportunistic and competing mini life forms getting situated... and they will "stabilize" in a short while if you don't change "the rules for playing in the sandbox". Your system has "cycled" by the conventional sense of nitrification, but is being/has been overwhelmed by protein inputs (food, dead fish, wash from the live rock and its curing....) Just hold on and hold off at this point and start studying up for what types of fishes you want to eventually house.


Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner