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Aquarium Set up, Marine Stocking and Equipment 9/7/07 Hello and thank you for taking my question. <Hello to you.> ~I am a newbie to this wonderful hobby and already I feel saturated with technical information from every source I have sought information from. I think that is why it has taken me 3yrs to finally get to the point where I am ready for the commitment and challenge. <The planning will pay off.> My problem is I have come across great sources (this site, books, local aquarium shops, and other hobbyists) and I know there is no one right way to do this, but I feel like there are far too many ways especially for a true beginner. So, I was hoping I could post on this site my thoughts on the inhabitants for my first tank and maybe a good narrow list of suggestions for equipment could be given so that I can investigate'¦so here we go. <Fire away.> 55g tank Stock: Live rock Live sand Snowflake Eel <I would pass on this, your tank is on the bare minimum side of one of these. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/snowflakemoray.htm .> Flame Angel Pair sand sifting gobies <Most sand sifters don't fair well in captivity, and will make your expensive live sand dead quite quickly.> Pair Pink Skunk Clown Host anemone (maybe bubble-tip) <Pass on these, generally difficult to keep, limits addition of corals in the future, and completely unnecessary for the clown's well being.> ~So if I could receive a few device names/model types I could research further that would be great. Filtration (canister vs. wed/dry vs. refugium), ? Filtration media <If you are so inclined get a sump, forget the canister/wet dry, they are only really necessary for heavily stocked aquariums and can be maintenance headaches. Refugiums are quite helpful, either one on the hang-on-tank types or create one in your sump if you go that route.> Lights <Depends on what you want to keep, need quite strong lighting for anemones and some corals, less so for less photosynthetic corals or just plain old live rock.> Skimmer < http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/protein_skimmer_impressions.htm > Circulation < http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i4/power_heads/Power_Heads.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Powerhead_test/powerhead_comp.htm > Heating < http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i3/heater_impressions/heater_impressions.htm > Thank you Anthony <Check out the excellent reviews of specific equipment by Steven Pro for CA magazine and see if they help.> <Chris> Equipment Set up- Using your book as guidance but LFS's x3 not helping. 8/23/07 Dear Mr. Fenner: <Hello, but not Bob, Chris here with you this morning.> Ok, well, I'm reading your book and it is helping me out substantially. I am half way through it. I've spent countless evenings browsing your website and also read up elsewhere. Your sources are the best! <Thanks> However, I am being overwhelmed and confused by my LFS's (3 of them) while I am trying to set up a new 55gal system that has flexibility for advancement from a beginner/intermediate FOWLR type to possible an advanced reef system. I've done fresh water for over 10 years and taking the leap. <Welcome to the salty side.> Let me tell you a few things I'm being told by 2-3 different LFS's. LFS #1 is telling me: - The Live Sand issue of being beneficial in the tank is a bunch of hogwash. Go with bare bottom or minimal for decorating purposes only. <Sand is generally beneficial, although bare-bottomed tanks are still popular.> - Regarding the filter systems- For a Fish population tank, DO NOT use live rock and use a wet/dry and a good skimmer, For Reef, go sump refugium with live rock and a replace the skimmer for a UV and have None or only a Few fish. <I always recommend using a skimmer, and they do very different things than UVs, which I generally don't think are necessary at all. Sumps are nice but not necessary, and wet/dries can be maintenance head-aches, although usefully with heavy stocking. I have never seen a tank that does not benefit for live rock.> I am also then being told that I must Choose which direction, then and only then can I plan the appropriate equipment. <In my opinion the basis for a good reef tank is built on a good FOWLR, so in my mind they are on the same path.> - Fish get sick, its going to happen so get used to it. If I mix live rock and Fish, I will have to choose one of them. If I choose to save the fish, I'll have a bunch of dead rubble on my hands. If I choose the live rock, The fish are dead if they are not already. Than he said garlic juice only works once! (I've never heard that one before) <That is quite a statement. They are sort of right in that treating LR with copper or antibiotics will damage it, but that is why QT and hospital tanks are so important.> - I asked him if a wet/dry using LR in lieu of bio-balls would help, reply was that that's a sump than, not a wet/dry. <Depends on how it is set up, but basically wet/dry has lots of air available while in a sump generally everything is submerged.> LFS #2 is telling me: - 2' depth (of all LS or at least 50%/50% LS and dry sand to save $) is needed for a bed and Not to use crushed coral as an aggregate because it will fluctuate the PH or Calcium too much (I cant remember which one he stated). <I would say less than 1 inch or more than 4, anything in the middle just traps debris without the nitrate reduction benefit. And LS and crushed coral are made out of the same thing, and both buffer and stabilize the pH. Crushed coral's problem is that it tends to trap detritus and is difficult to clean.> - A wet/dry is the way to go with a good skimmer and my tank type options are all open. <I would replace the wet/dry with LR.> - He suggested the CPR Bak Pak 75 with the built in skimmer. - A possible upgrade of the filter is to remove the bio-ball for LR rubble. - Water changes if any and how often is predicated on your filter type. Wet/dry will be minimal. Hmmmm, I'm am doubtful now. <Water changes are key here as I'm sure you know. CPR makes a decent product but I'm not a fan of all-in-one tanks, I think a alacart method works better.> LFS #3- can't remember but I know they (looked down upon and) steered me away of the combo ProClear pro 75 wet/dry that had the integral skimmer. <Forget those integrated skimmers, their performance is almost always sub-par.> The bottom line is that I'm looking for guidance to the recommended equipment scenario for flexibility to upgrade tank type, low maintenance and reasonable but fair set up cost. Oh, and by the way, how does this all fit below in the typical 55 gal tank cabinet that is only 10' (clear) deep and 48' wide? <Can be a tight fit if you go with a sump design, which has many benefits, but to be honest there is nothing wrong with hang-on-back equipment, I use this style myself on my 46G.> Could you guide in any way by possibly confirming or denying the above statements they are telling me. Your new friend, Ken <If you are comfortable with plumbing a sump I would go this route, otherwise I like a simple LR, skimmer setup based on a modified "Berlin" method. You have to look at all the equipment in the tank but can be easier to get into than plumbing a sump. Also I am going to push the QT/hospital tank procedures Bob writes about in his book, they go a long way towards success.> <Chris> Equipment and Confusion, bad LFS Advice, Cleaning Up
the Mess 7/30/07... induced troubles, stkg. I would like to
sincerely thank all of you for your hard work and especially your
knowledge! <I avoid hard work whenever possible.> I am new to the
hobby and have a 56 and a 55 gal. <Jumping right in I see.> I am
so lost right now with all of the reading and the less than honest
LFS's (plural) I am starting to consider giving up! <Bluto's
speech from Animal House is now going through my head.> The tanks
are essentially disasters waiting to happen and I want to get this
turned around or have to get out. <Well then, let's get it
turned around.> 56 has: Rena XP4, BakPak 2, Rena Air 400, Coralife
lights 1 65 watt 03 actinic and 1 65 watt 10,000. The livestock are 1
blue hippo tang, 1 Koran, 1 yellow tang, a percula, 2 Haitian anemones,
20 lbs live rock, 3" of crushed coral and sand mixed, 8 crabs, 7
snails, watermelon mushrooms and a leather. <Oh boy.> This is
obviously horrible and was done with the encouragement of the owner of
a LFS that has a solid reputation. <So much for reputation.>
Since adding the lights a brown algae has taken off in full bloom on
the glass. Where do I start to fix this? <Usually this will cycle
out, otherwise just monitor nutrients and frequent water changes.> I
would like to keep the leather, mushrooms, and the percula if possible.
<That should be doable.> The leather lays on it's side if the
lights are off but with the lights on the algae just explodes. <Need
to leave the lights on for the leather, combat the diatoms through
nutrient control.> 55 has: Fluval 304 and a Rena XP3, a powerhead
with unknown name as it's really old but still actually very
strong, 3" of live sand, 20 lbs of live rock, 2 chromis, 1 yellow
fin damsel, 1 3 stripe damsel, 1 maroon clown (very tiny), 1 coral
beauty, mushrooms, an unknown orange soft coral, and 2 bubble tip
anemones. <Well, the fish may be ok, quite an aggressive group
there, the mixing of corals and anemones is not great as I'm sure
you have read.> Found a different LFS for this one and did much more
research on this store but again this was all done under the guidance
of the owner. I realize now that this is horrible too. <Less
horrible but more workable I think.> Water tests for both tanks have
been good at all of the LFS and here at home. Nothing out of whack.
<Good> I have ordered a 48" Aquactinics Solar Flare and an
Aqua C Remora Pro with Mag 3 skimmer for the 55. What do I need for
water flow (I can't even tell if I have enough!) or really
anything? <Looking for 10X tank volume turn over, 20X better. I
prefer several small powerheads to just one or two larger ones.> I
have tried to take back the anemones and the LFS owner said he
didn't remember our conversation and too bad. <How nice for
him.> Since it can always get worse, I asked for recommendations on
a reputable LFS in the area and went yesterday. They convinced me I
needed a very expensive, massive 1/2 hp chiller (for that future
expansion) and a typhoon skimmer for the 55 since the Aqua C
"won't work" and the lights will "fry my fish."
<You have some interesting LFS near you for sure.> I have spent
over 3000.00 and have a massive mess. I have read until I cannot see
straight and each thing I read seems better than the last: the Tunze
power heads then the EcoTech VorTech and on and on. Right now I hear 2
things: you don't need a "nice" things (skimmers, power
heads) for tanks this size but you do need 1/2 hp chillers....uh-huh. I
am not an innocent victim and it's completely my fault for
listening. <I'll say multiple sources are best, including
ourselves.> When I am so confused, it all sounds like a much better
idea then what I am doing. <Stop and take a day off from worrying,
clear your head and then come back to it.> Any help would be more
than greatly appreciated because I will either get this fixed or there
will be a big sale on craigslist for almost all barely used equipment
Sara Rowe <My two cents is lets keep it simple and work with what
you have. A good skimmer on each tank, use the canisters for water
movement, and thin the stock as much as possible to start with, some
additions can come later. Try to combine all the corals in one tank and
the anemones in the other if you can't return them. Forget the
chiller, if you can maintain between 79 and 82 in the tanks you
don't need it, and a $10 fan blowing across the top of the tank
often works as well as a chiller if you need it. Try to double the
amount of rock in each tank, however to save some money use base rock
and the LR will seed it. Same with sand to replace the crushed coral.
So to summarize, LR, Skimmer, sand and water movement are the immediate
goals here.> <Chris> Our first saltwater tank We just bought a salt water tank. I have some questions that I would like to ask. I have searched the web and cant seem to find any answers to my questions. My first question is why do we need a special lighting for the corral and not the anemones? <Both groups need "reasonable" illumination... See WWM re... What is the difference between the live rock and the corral? <... What? LR is an artifice/description for aquarium material, alive and not... corral's are for horses et al. terrestrial mammal husbandry> Do the live rock change colors? <Mmm, not the rock per se, but the profusion of changing life on/in it> The live rock that I bought are white, will they change colors sometime? <Likely with algae growing on it, yes> We are starting out with a 20 gallon tank so far. It has been good and we have not had any fish die on us yet so we must be doing something right. thanks - Jennell <Do learn to and use the search tool, indices on WWM... Bob Fenner> Established Tank (re) Setup 6/7/07 Hello. I am new
to the hobby and will be asking generic stupid questions. I have looked
through the FAQ and could not find my stupid little question. (sorry)
<No worries.> I will be receiving an established 120 gallon tank
in two weeks. The live sand and rock will be preserved during the move.
The filter and sump will keep some of the water. Now for my question .
. . will it be necessary to have 120 gallons of water deionized,
de-chlorinated, and mixed with salt before the tank arrives? <Yes,
filling with fresh water and then adding salt will kill all life on the
LR and sand.> Can I set it up like a new tank with out preparing the
water in a large garbage can . . . and then siphoning 120 gallons of
water into the new tank . . . without killing all the good bacteria?
<No> What will be the best way to do this? Thank you in advance
for your patience and understanding. <A couple of large water
containers, a pump, and some hose is the best way to do this. The water
needs to be prepared before adding to the tank.> <Chris> In The Beginning... New to marines
6/6/07 Hi <Hi there! Scott F, with you today!>
I've been keeping freshwater fish for the last 5 years, and am just
about to switch over to marines. <An exciting new world for you!>
I've done a lot of research, both on the web and in
books/magazines, but I still have loads of questions, so I'd value
your opinions/suggestions about what I'm about to do. <Glad to
be of service!> I'm planning on keeping mainly fish, but if all
goes well then adding some soft corals after a time. <A nice
progression...> The fish I'd particularly like to keep include a
Clownfish, a Regal tang, a Dwarf angel, plus as many others as the tank
can comfortably accommodate. <Good thought...Always take into
account the maximum sizes of your fishes and their long term needs,
then plan your system accordingly.> I have a Rena 120 panoramic
tank, which has a water volume of 220 litres. <A nice size to
start with, but too small a water volume/physical size to keep the
Regal Tang...You'll have to employ careful stocking of very small
fishes and good husbandry in this small volume of water.> I've
read a lot about the "Berlin" method of filtration, and am
going to give that a go. I plan to use just a shallow layer of
substrate, maybe 1 inch, of CaribSea Arag-Alive sand (I bought this by
mistake, I thought I was buying Aragamax, but will it make any
difference?). <Not a major difference...Grain size might be slightly
different, but negligible, IMO.> I have an AquaC Remora protein
skimmer which will run from a Maxijet 1200 powerhead. It also has a
small pre-skim box into which I'm thinking of adding some activated
carbon (how long should that stay in there, all the time, or just
periodically?) <Well, chemical filtration media, such as activated
carbon, can be used continuously, but should be changed out very
frequently to maintain their effectiveness.> I'm thinking of NOT
using any external canister filter at all, instead relying on live rock
and the protein skimmer for the main filtration. <A common, very
successful practice. With proper stocking, careful maintenance, and
overall good husbandry, you'll be able to run a nice system this
way.> From what I've read, I reckon I'll need about half a
kilo per gallon of live rock, so maybe 30kg live rock total (lots of
questions about this - does that sound like the right amount?
<Should be fine...You could probably even get by with less, in my
experience.> Will it look odd if I'm not keeping lots of corals?
<I don't think so...FOWLR (Fish Only with Live Rock) aquariums
look pretty cool, in my opinion.> Should I buy it all in one go?
<I have done it that way, and I've also done it gradually. If
the rock is cured, I'd just as soon add it all at once. Your
call.> Presumably it's safer to buy cured rock than try to cure
it myself?). <Well, there's no danger in curing it yourself. You
can cure it in the display (not my preferred technique), or you could
cure it in a large plastic trash can or container. If cost is not an
object, pre-cured rock is a nice luxury. There still might be some
die-off and curing that has to occur, even in "pre-cured"
rock, though.> For extra water flow, I was thinking of 2 extra
Maxijet 1200's (is that too much? is there an optimum layout for
positioning powerheads?). <I think a lot of flow is a nice idea in
most systems, unless you're keeping animals that require very
minimal water flow.> I read an article today on WWM which said that
it's the animals in the rock which produce the water flow by
burrowing in and out, rather than pumps forcing water through - (in
which case do I really need 2 extra powerheads?) <I would use
them.> Light-wise, since I'm starting with just fish and rock, I
was thinking of either 2x T8 tubes (marine white + blue actinic), or
2xT5 tubes, in either case the output will be around 2x39W (is that
enough for the size of tank? Will I need more when I move on to adding
soft corals?) <Well, if you're not keeping photosynthetic
inverts from the start, you could get by with this lighting scheme.
However, if corals are in your future, I'd invest in a "coral
capable" lighting system from the start. Consider T5 systems.
Consult your dealer or check out some online vendors for options.>
For the Regal Tangs, I believe they're susceptible to whitespot, so
will I need a UV filter to help prevent that? <As above, you'll
really need a larger system to keep any Tang, in my opinion. These
fishes get quite large, are active swimmers, and will need much larger
water volumes and space to live for anything approaching a natural life
span.> Any help / suggestions would be very much appreciated Thanks!
Len <Glad to be of service, Len! Just keep reading, learning and
plan your system with the long term in mind. Good luck! Regards, Scott
F.> First Saltwater Tank 5/25/07 Hi! <Hello> I have just recently set up my first saltwater tank. I've had freshwater for years but never before have I ventured into salt. <It's fun.> I've got a 40g Long tank, no live rock as of yet, no skimmer, Penguin Bio-Wheel Filter, salinity is 1.023, PH of 8.4, Ammonia and Nitrites are 0, Nitrate is 20. <If you are going to add live rock (which I highly recommend), do it soon, because it will cause havoc with your water parameters at first, causing another cycle. Also, get a skimmer too, much better than a bio-wheel filter for marine applications.> I feed New Life Spectrum pellet foods exclusively to my freshwater fish and after a discussion with Pablo (the developer of NLS) I intend to try my salties on the same diet. <Good stuff.> I plan to use Thera-A in the .35mm and 1mm sizes. I also will use the NLS Stable Wafers, primarily for my Lawnmower Blenny since algae is in rather short supply as yet. <Another reason to get the LR soon.> My question is regarding compatibility. I've got a list of fish/inverts decided on but I'd like to double check that they'll be compatible before leaping in with two feet. The tank currently has the following: 1- Lawnmower Blenny 2- Yellow and Gold Chromis I plan on adding the following fish/inverts eventually if they'll be compatible.. 1- Flame Angel <Would skip, the tank is a little small for it and with the other livestock your probably pushing it a little too much.> 1- Skunk Cleaner Shrimp 1- Neon Goby 2- Banggai Cardinalfish (I plan to acquire a small group of these, allow them to pair and then return all but one pair. ) and possibly 1- Tiger Dragon Goby Thanks for your time! -Heather <Seems ok, but with a little study you can tell the difference between male and female cardinals, so you won't need to go through all the extra purchasing. Don't forget to QT everything.> <Chris> Marine Sys. 5/15/07 I remember reading a long time ago that the dawning of the age of marine aquariums came with the realization that we can't ever hope to duplicate the ocean and that we had to stop thinking we could do that -- and find alternatives to trying. But this got me to thinking. I have a 55 gallon Fish/Live Rock/snails & hermit crabs tank. I have a Fluval 405 with bio media, activated charcoal and Chemi-Pure in the canister, a CPR Bak-Pak protein skimmer. I change 15% of the water every Tuesday with Instant Ocean mix from my LFS (which is made with RO/DI water) and on top of that, I run a tiny 40 gph pump to a canister with 20 Ounces of Hydrocarbon2 activated carbon for about 20 hours a week. My Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates and Phosphates are 0.0 1) Is there anything left to do or improve? <Mmm, compared with the sea? Much more circulation... Compared with what might be done for captive husbandry? Likely an Ozonizer to improve ReDox, a refugium with a DSB, macroalgae on a RDP light setting...> 2) Am I still essentially running a mini sewer system? <Heeeee! To a degree, yes... one with a partial "flush" every week!> Regards As always, Darrel <Thank you for writing, sharing. Bob Fenner> 55 gallon saltwater setup, & Archer sys... 4/15/07 Hi, I currently purchased a used 55g bowfront aquarium. Also included were 2 powerfilters (1 filters 60 gallons and the other I THINK filters 45), 1 undergravel filter, a DE filter (I have never heard of these filters for aquariums, it looks like my pool filter but on a smaller scale!) <Ah, this is what it is... a Diatomaceous Earth filter... for periodic (non-continuous) use... See Vortex Products site on the Net, WWM re... > several heaters, air pumps, and other accessories. What I would like to do is setup a saltwater aquarium for a Spot-finned lionfish (Pterois antennata) and a green wolf eel starting now and finishing by the end of the summer. Is my tank big enough for the species I have selected? <Mmm, not really indefinitely...> Which filter would you recommend using? <All the power filters, likely the undergravel... but you need much more useful knowledge... http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm> I have been told to use a mix of live sand and crushed coral for the substrate, is this ok? <Can/could be> I really don't want a lot of fish that will overcrowd my tank so I think I will most likely stick with the two I already mentioned, but, to keep my options open, are there any other fish that would suit my setup? <... many> What is a good online retailer to get them from? <Posted...> Also, I have a 30g brackish aquarium with a puffer* and a needle nose gar that has been setup for 1 year. I would like to add a couple of archers and a screen section to the top for feed items like crickets for the archers. the puffer is 4 inches and the gar is 6 inches (neither have grown in several months). Would this be a suitable setup? <Not likely room enough... Toxotids need more "running" room than this arrangement> Thank you for all your time and help. K. Sned * The puffer was given to me by a friend who bought him from a LFS as a "black river puffer". She kept him in a 2.5g freshwater tank (YIKES) with a couple of Monos (DOUBLE YIKES) as she was told this was a "more than suitable" setup by the LFS. When I got the puffer he was very dull and had cloudy eyes. I put him in a 10g hospital tank for several weeks and began to gradually add instant ocean. I had to entice him to eat with ghost shrimp which he started taking after a week when he refused all other foods. He is now a bright brown-almost-gold with spots, a white underbelly, and yellow on his sides. His eyes are clear and they are a bright blue surrounded by a reddish orange. <Read my friend... learn to/use the indices, search tool on WWM... MUCH related material is organized, archived there for alls perusal, growth, sharing. Bob Fenner> New tank set up... SW... eventually reef... 3/15/07 Hi everybody <Hello, Brandon here tonight.> I need some help with the following. I want to set up a 200 gallon fish tank now, and maybe add some invertebrates/corals later on. <If I were you, I would begin reading here, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/circmarart.htm, then follow the links at the top of the page.> I have a live reef (Berlin type system). Will live rock and the sand be enough or should I add a power canister or bio balls in the sump making it wet/dry. <I would not worry about the canister, or the bio-balls. I would however, make sure that I had an oversized protein skimmer. I personally have an affinity for AquaC.> Your help is greatly appreciated ! <You are most welcome. Brandon.> best regards Kostas Pump & Stocking Advice... actually SW siting, set-up in gen. -- 03/09/07 Thanks again for taking time out to answer questions from those of us who are getting restarted in the hobby after a lengthy hiatus as a result of serving in the Armed Forces overseas. <Glad to help all...> I have a couple of locations that I can set up my reef. My first choice would be my living room, but there is surround sound and I am hesitant to set it up there due to there being a surround sound speaker nearby. This will only come into play when we watch DVDs. Do you foresee a problem with setting it up here? <Mmm, not likely a problem... unless the "bass" is so loud you can feel it...> I do have a 2nd location, however, I would not be able to share my "piece of the ocean" as effectively if I put it in the master bedroom. <Mmm... well... unless your gear is very quiet, and the sound of moving water doesn't bother you...> I would REALLY like to put it in the living room but don't want to stress the fish out (I never have the speakers too loud anyway out of respect for neighbors). <This will be fine... If you've spent time underwater in the tropics... I have... you know it is often quite a noisy place> I would also like to ask if you recommend adding a calcium reactor or if I religiously add calcium supplements every day, is the reactor necessary? <Not necessary, but a valuable tool in many circumstances... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcreactors.htm and the linked files above... I've yet to split up these into subFAQs like "Rationale"... which is where I was going to refer you> I will be running either an Iwaki 70 or 100 and I will be adding two Tunze Stream pumps as well. <Nice gear> Is there any advantage to cycling the tank with the Iwaki and adding the Streams later or would it be more beneficial to run the Iwaki and the streams during the entire cycling process? <I'd run all including a skimmer> Thanks once again for your assistance. This forum has proved extremely invaluable. Have a great day! Scott <And you, Bob Fenner> New Marine Aquarium Set-Up; sump, refugia 3/4/07 Hi, <Hello.> As so many requesters to this site I am amazed at the expertise you all have on, what seems to me to be an increasingly complex pastime. <Thank you.> I would like to ask the first of probably many questions I have kept tropical for 15 years (CO2 injected planted aquarium) <Ooh pretty.> and been running a 2'x2'x2' marine tank with lots of live rock for the last 2 years (keeping Nemo), I also have a 2'x2'x2' gal tank FULL of live rock connected to this. <I'm sure that helps out with the microfauna population.> I am in the process of moving my main 6'x2'x18" over to marine and am currently collecting and researching equipment (as perhaps the tank of live rock shows). I spend most of my time fascinated with the tiny life on the rocks and am looking for a real natural mix of small peaceful species including inverts and corals (although I don't know which sorts yet as all the really beautiful stuff (bright colours) is either really hard to keep or eats its neighbour ;) ) I like things like pipe fish and small shrimps. <Well unless your willing to dedicate a species-only display to the pipefish, you'll have to be counting those out to.> Mandarins <Do research these, have VERY specific dietary needs and are notoriously short lived...most starve.> (though I think opinion will be that these upset the DSB, <The mandarins? Are not sand burrowing in nature.> and Copperbands to keep down the antipia <Aiptasia?> (here I'm told I'll lose coral polyps) <Is a possibility, also not a very hardy animal to be honest.> I have about 90kg of crushed coral sand @ 1mm (I think this will give 4"-6" DSB) and am planning to have a full length live rock back drop bottom to top (don't know how many KG but will purchase what I'm short of) and am now considering the extra filtration. Here's that question. I imagined that I would run a sump tank with a trickle (wet / dry) element <I actually don't like wet-dry filtration in reef set-ups. I much prefer the combo of macro-algae refugia, lots of water flow and a powerful protein skimmer.> that could contain all the heaters and pumps (returning via a multi directional manifold above the tank) <I would use one main pump in a straight (non-split return line), then use the other pumps to create a closed loop manifold.> but having read some (lots) of the articles on this site am now not convinced that a wet / dry media like bio balls would give me anything, <Yes, see my comment above.> I also seem to be planning so much live rock in the main tank that I'm not sure if I need any in the sump tank. I do imaging that a algae growth area (is this refugium <refugium.> ?) <Refugium is a general term for a "refuge" area to keep animals separate that would have a hard time thriving in the display, one of the uses is, yes, the growth of macro-algae...> Would be an advantage. <Yes they are.> Does it seem with so much live rock and DSB I need a sump at all ? <The word sump is a general term for an area lower in than the main body of water to keep extra equipment. They are in my opinion an advantage, aesthetically and functionally.> My next question will be about lights but I will try to establish exactly what I would like to keep before asking that one :-) <A good idea.> Regards Steve <Adam J.> Getting Back in the Game 2/11/07 Hi my name is Rob and I am very excited to finally ask a question or two... <Welcome Rob.> I have been getting information from all kinds of sources and have found my self plugging into wetwebmedia.com every day. <Great.> Thanks for the great info! <Thanks for reading.> I am getting back into the game after ten years and am amazed at the change in set up and advancement in technologies. <My dad same the thing about TV's about a month ago.> Let me start by saying the initial cost in set up is a little overwhelming and my wife is about to kill me, <Have heard that one once or twice....or more.> whaa whaa we all have heard this I am sure... <Oh yes, hehe.> Thankfully I kept my tank but am redoing everything else. <Sounds like a fun project.> So here it is I have a 110 gallon and I was going to go with strictly fish because I was pretty successful at it the first time around (though when I look back compared to today I do not realize how the fish even survived!) <A good analogy is to compare the computers we have now to the computers NASA used in the first moon expeditions....crazy that they didn't all die.> I used just dead crushed coral and dead display coral, <Be careful with these. The former can be quite the detritus trap and the latter is infamous in attracting various forms of algae.> and I put some damsels in the tank and it began to cycle over a period of time. <Be sure to read WWM re: marine cycling, the use of animals to do is since taboo as well.> I set my tank up about a week and a half ago; I removed all of the bio balls from my wet dry and added a sock filter, I put 120lbs of Indo Pacific LS and 106 lbs of Tonga LR. <Sounding much better!> I am circulating water back into the tank utilizing a Mag 9.5 and realize that I need more flow and will be adding a 1200 gph power head, I just purchased a Nova Extreme light (and it is magnificent) two titanium heaters 300 watts apiece and here in lies the question; I have noticed a slow progression of white slim on the heaters I am concerned but not about to make a knee jerk reaction. I am wondering what it is? <Likely bacterial/organic in origin...do you have water parameter readings?> It seems to be primarily on the black portion of the heaters and very sticky. The live rock also is starting to turn a rust color is this normal? <For newer tanks can be common, search WWM re: diatom algae.> I am also looking into buying an ATI bubble master protein skimmer <Not familiar with his brand but a good skimmer is key here.> because of the small sump area I like the idea of the pump located in the skimmer because of the space but I question if there is a failure in the pump does this mean the skimmer is no longer useful ? <Pump would have to be replaced/repaired.> Also I am wondering because of the displacement of water to rock would this handle a good fish load combined with some inverts? <Well how about you send me a list of what you plan to add.> I only have about 12'' x12 space in the sump and trying hard to find something that will fit in it, I considered a hang on skimmer but prefer to utilize the sump. <Smaller AquaC's may fit into this area.> OH! one other thing I added four damsel the other day, caught up in old habits I guess, but they seem to be doing fine I am not feeding them to much. <A testament to the hardiness of this animal.> Every other day small amounts I have heard that I should probably take them out but my daughter likes them. <Can become territorial...just so you know.> There are two yellow tails that I will probably keep a domino <At the very least take the latter out.> and a white tail humbug that people are telling me to get rid of because they will tend to be aggressive. <Very much so.> Your thoughts! <All above.> Any help will be appreciated thanks and have a good day! <You too, AdamJ.> Initial Setup Questions... and Answers, SW 1/11/07 Ok, I have read through your site, and many others. But there is a lot of conflicting information out there. I apologize for asking the newbie questions I am sure you have heard over and over again. <Hi Jason, Mich with you today.> I have recently purchased a 29 gallon, all in one tank (Oceanic BioCube 29). The tank has 3 chambers in the back. The first draws water from the main tank and passes it through a small cartridge filter. This spills over into the second chamber, which has a strainer on top, and bioballs below. The water moves into the third chamber, which remains about 1/2 full, and is pumped out back into the tank. <OK.> I have been running the tank on just tap water (unsalted) for about a week to check for leaks and general badness while I waited for my stand to get shipped to me. So far so good. <Very good. Are you planning on replacing the tap water with DI/RO water? I would recommend this.> I have purchased about 1-2 inches worth of live Aragonite sand, and plan on getting 30 or so pounds of live rock as well. <I would recommend a sand bed that is either an inch or less of sand or 3 inches or more deep, the later will assist in denitrification.> I have read on your site and many others that bio balls are bad due to the nitrate production. Since I haven't even started my cycle yet, should I remove the bioballs up front? <You could. I would add the sand, change the water, get the live rock and start the cycling process.> I thought about replacing them with live rock gravel, but since the middle chamber is not completely submerged, and receives no light, is this a problem? <No, still a possibility. You could try to leave room if possible for a small amount of macroalgae, which should be submerged and typically will do OK if provided a minimal amount of light.> I have read posts of people saying they were turning their middle (wet/dry?) chamber into a refugium or sump. Could you explain a bit more what this means? <Yes. This is usually is a lower flow area containing macroalgae (Chaetomorpha is typically recommended) and sometimes sand, live rock. It provides refuge to various microfauna which would most likely be consumed if in the display section of the tank. This area is kept as a safe breading ground for the various beneficial microfauna to perpetually supplies the system with a more natural diet and environment.> Every where I have seen refugium described ( http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/aquariumdiy/a/aa041400.htm) it seems like it's a place for seahorses and such, but that doesn't make any sense for a wet/dry! <Yes, I understand the confusion. Seahorses are also kept in lower flow tanks with a some macroalgae. They are often independent systems, a refuge for the seahorse, but are often the primary display, it too is called a refugium.> My "all in one" does not include a protein skimmer. Is this a mandatory item, or will my water changes and live rock take care of it? <It is a highly beneficial and recommended item. Can you keep up with only water changes? If you're vigilant, yes. Will you keep up with only water changes? That's the difficult question.> Also, my LFS says I could fit 7 fish in my 29G, putting in one or two at a time and letting them acclimate. However, my reading on the various forums leads me to believe that the limit would be much less than that (3-4?). How many can I fit? <Yikes! Seven is way too many! Three to four is more appropriate.> LFS also said coral, cleaning crew, etc does not contribute to the limit of fish in the tank. Is this true? <Mmm, sort of. They do not contribute to the same degree as fish do.> Ok, so that's my first batch of newbie questions. Sorry that I am sure you have answered these many times. <We're here to help.> Thanks, <Welcome! -Mich> Jason Questions from a SW beginner 12/30/06 Hello I am 15 yr. old beginning my first salt water tank. <Hello and welcome!> I have had fresh water tanks in the past but I understand that salt and fresh water tanks are very different. <In many respects, yes...> I had my 25 gallon tank cycling for 2 days before I went to the LFS where I got a piece of live rock and 3 snails (I was told this would help the cycling process.) I have been reading that damsels are the best fish to start your new tank with. <I am personally a fan of "fishless" cycling. This can be done with a tiny pinch of fish food in the tank, daily, or a small piece of cocktail shrimp. Basically, you want the food/shrimp to start decaying/breaking down, to cause a spike in ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, respectively. Once that has happened, your tank is said to be cycled. Read here for a very helpful article on the cycling process (I know the article is entitled "freshwater cycling", but the same concept applies here in the marine world): http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm I don't like to recommend cycling with fish, even hardy ones like damsels, as I personally find it cruel and unnecessary. Also, many folks don't want to keep their damsels or other "starter fish" after the cycle is complete - what to do then?> I guess my first question would be when can I start adding in fish to my tank (its been running for 3 days now)... <...invest in a quality liquid test kit to measure high-end (saltwater) pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Once you've seen each spike then fall, in that order, your cycle will be complete. In SW systems, this happens generally in about 4 weeks.> ...and if I want to add other fish is the damsel really the smartest choice? I heard that they are not good to have with other fish in tanks of my size. <25 gallons certainly isn't a big tank. You are pretty limited in what you can keep. Best to pick one fish (of reasonable size) that you really want, and plan tankmates around it. Here's a helpful article by our own Scott Fellman on the subject < http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tksizmattersart.htm Also check out Scott Michael's Reef Aquarium Fishes for a useful guide on many common species. Of course, your decision with regard to what fish to keep also depends on if you want to keep corals, inverts, etc. Do browse here for stocking suggestions, compatibility, etc.: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm > Thank you very much and any suggestions, and or helpful information would be greatly appreciated. <Best to read and research now while your tank is cycling. There's lots of information out there, and your best bet is to try and learn now, before purchasing livestock. So many options, I can't give you just one suggestion! Good luck and enjoy planning your aquarium - this is the most fun part!! Jorie>
Ideas about a new 55 gallon salt water fish 12/3/06 Bob, Hello, my name is Parker Aldredge and I have contacted you or some one through this website. Anyway, I have recently moved to a new city, Atlanta, <Ahh! Do check into the Reef Club there... very nice folks> and I don't plan on staying more than a year or two. The question that I have for you is; I was wondering what I might be able to accomplish in a short period with a salt water aquarium. I am somewhat experienced. I have been in the hobby for three years. I have gone through <?> two salt aquariums, so I am somewhat versed with the salt water knowledge. I was thinking off the edge, especially at the time I'm sending this email to you, that I might be able to do a predator tank. I think that the predator tank would be appropriate because of the little maintenance; however, I am not sure that the knowledge that I have gained about predator tanks would be best for a relatively short period (1-1half years). Please return this email in regards to the best direction that I might want to pursue. I don't mind spending between $500 to $1000 on everything. I sold everything else I have so I don't know if this is possible with a 55 gallon tank. Thanks for your time and knowledge. P.S. With my last tank, I had a 29 gallon eclipse bio wheel. The tank did everything that I wanted it to do. I had two damsels, a ton of snails, some shrimp, anemones, and a Dobie (algae eater) I think????? The first tank (same eclipse) had two trigger fish (Picasso and a Niger) and a snowflake eel; however, it had a lot of black algae growing and I gave up on it after a lot of work. (I was a sophomore in college; that is no excuse). I did like the predator; however!!!!!! I have recently graduated from college and was hoping that you could give me some direction for someone that is inspired but is not permanent. (1 to 1half years). P.S.S. Sorry I have to tell you that I have read this email at least 5 times to make sure the grammar is right. HAHA <Mmm... I do think another marine system is in your future... With some planning, preparation, you should be able to sell off the livestock, and haul the tank, mechanicals with you (if you'd like) to your next home. Bob Fenner> New setup (again!) 8/16/05 Hi guys, hope you are all well! Several questions a-coming (after having exhausted the site). Firstly, a quick heads-up - I'm starting my aquarium afresh after having a total die-off (managed to save about 20% of my livestock which is now thriving in a hospital/quarantine tank) due to my own ignorance and poor-choice purchasing. I'm (better) converting a tropical aquarium (provisionally wished to own tropical) and am in the process of introducing better lighting. I have come across a unit - Arcadia T5 Overhead Illuminaire, housing 4 X 55 watt HO fluorescent tubes - that will work with my system. Firstly, is this enough illumination for a system housing fish, inverts and some soft corals <For how large a system? Should be fine for a nominally four foot long tank, less than twenty actual inches of water depth...> and secondly, the unit stands 4" off the top of the tank. Is there any way I can effectively 'block-off' the gaps? <Mmm, no... not w/o abandoning these supports > Could I install a glass or Plexi-glass lid between the tank and unit without affecting the light output? <No> Next, would it be possible to mix my left-over large ceramic noodles with small EhfiMech without any deterioration of ability and where would it be best to fit an activated carbon pad in my Eheim Pro II filter? <Yes, and last in the filter flow path> Finally, is 3-4" CaribSea Aragonite 0.5-1.0 mm directly placed on the glass bottom workable with a reef system <Yes> and what do you think of Reef Shelves (I would like to be able to vacuum ALL my substrate and so wish to raise the reef). <Can be of use> As always your invaluable knowledge and dedication to furthering the field/trade are greatly appreciated. Steve Morse. <Glad to share. Bob Fenner> Advice For An "Old-School" Fish Keeper - 08/01/05 Greetings, and thank you for the wonderful service you offer. I can honestly say that I learn something daily from your site. <<Hello, we're glad you find it useful.>> I have you to thank for embracing the idea of a quarantine tank, which has saved a few fish and allowed me to run my fish only tanks without a constant low level of copper. <<Very good>> I am a 42 year old who has been into fish since he was around 8. I can't remember any extended period when I haven't had at least some kind of aquarium. <<You and I share many similarities here.>> About 7 months ago, I decided to set up my dream aquarium. My French Angel was starting to out grow my 125. So I decided on a 240. <excellent>> Being an "old-school" kind of fish keeper (fish only, coral skeletons, wet/dry filters, etc.) I decided that it was time to look into some of these "new" technologies that I had heard about (live rock, live sand, refugium, etc.). <<Ahh yes, the bleached coral fish system (some with under-gravel filters)...we have come a long way since those days, yes. But the wet/dry filters can be/are still quite useful for FO systems with high bio loads.>> Bob's book "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist", this web site, and my LFSs where my primary sources of information. <<A good start indeed.>> I live in the Bay Area of Northern California, and am lucky to have several excellent fish stores close by. After two months of research, I had a "perfect" plan (or so I thought!), including detailed plumbing drawings. <<Kudos! to you for some planning ahead.>> I had decided on a combination of old and new technologies: wet/dry filter, UV sterilization, a canister filter and coral skeletons from the old school, aggressive protein skimming and a refugium from the new school. <<Mmm...some thoughts here. The UV should be restricted to hospital/quarantine tanks in my opinion, totally self-defeating on a system with a refugium...you would be better served with an ozone generator fed in to the skimmer. The canister filter can be a benefit if/when maintained properly (weekly). As for the coral skeletons, I would replace/add to these a few tens of pounds of live rock.>> To make a long story a bit shorter, my "perfect" plan was anything but! My plumbing plan had serious flaws, I had various minor leaks in my first attempt at all PVC plumbing, and some of my older equipment did not make the transition so well. <<uh oh>> The 240 has been running for 5 months, and I can honestly say it has been a frustrating 5 months. Only recently has the tank settled in (keep in mind, it was seeded from my 125). <<Seeding from a previous tank does not guarantee instant success as you have discovered. Likely your tank has gone through a cycle from disturbing/moving the content of the 125.>> My water parameters are very good (PH - 8.2, Ammonia - 0, Nitrite - 0, Nitrate - less than 25) with the exception of phosphates, which have always been very high, leading to a constant struggle with brown algae. <<Make sure you are servicing that canister filter weekly...and maybe step up the water flow in the system.>> I use RO/DI water (our local water is poor), and have tried Poly Filters and RowaPhos, along with 20% water changes every 3 weeks, to bring them down, to no avail. I do have a somewhat high fish load, which I know is a primary cause of my phosphate problem, and recently found new homes for a few of the fish. <<Hmm...you're not using a recycled plastic drum for water prep/storage are you? Have you tested the filter affluent for phosphate? Have you tested the storage water after it sets in the container for a bit? Just some thoughts...>> I do not believe the tank to be over-crowded. But with two larger fish and several medium, they do produce a large amount of waste. <<agreed>> I am careful NOT to overfeed. All fish are doing great: excellent colors and health, low aggression, etc. <<ok>> I know you may laugh at or question my timing, but after re reading CMA, I decided that perhaps it was time to abandon my old school ways and go "all natural". <<Never too late to re-evaluate/make improvements...learn...>> In other words, replace the crushed coral substrate with sand <<Aha...this may be your source of phosphate, depending on the grain size/depth of the crushed coral it may be trapping large amounts of detritus.>>, replace the coral skeletons with cured live rock <<There ya go!>>, and toss the evil bio-balls <<Not so sure this is needed/desirable, but you can give it a try...but do so gradually to give the live rock time to "ramp up" to the system load.>>. When presenting this idea to my two favorite fish stores, I received two different responses. <Not unusual>> One said it was a great idea and I should go for it. The other said it would be a huge mistake, and most likely stress the fish, which could in turn cause an ich or other disease outbreak, which would be impossible to treat without a large quarantine tank. <<I too say "go for it"... The benefits outweigh the risks (minimal) in my opinion.>> OK! I really want to provide the best environment for my fish, with the best possible water quality. I am also getting awfully tired of bleaching my coral skeletons to keep them looking good (yes - very old school!) <<Been there too my friend <G>.>> and would like to spend a bit more time enjoying my tank and a bit less time keeping up with it. <Ahh, Utopia...>> Your thoughts and advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. <<You have them my friend. Regards, EricR>> Filter addition, skimmer selection... thanking but not reading, no thanks To start I would like to thank you for your advice and sat that your site is great. I have learned a lot by reading through your archives. I have not however found the answers to the questions that I have. I have a 75g tank with 80 lbs of LR, A scopas tang and Humu Humu Trigger (also what's left of a cleanup crew otherwise devoured by the trigger). My question has to do with filtration. I have an Eco60 on the tank right now. It keeps the water quality pretty high but does not do that good of a job of filtering out floating objects. I was wondering if I could modify it in some way so that it could take in this unwanted debris. Or should I purchase another filter for this affect. <You might try retro-fitting some sort of finer padding (Dacron batting" in some area of water flow...> I am also having a problem with brown build up <Brown?> , along with some green and red hair algae on the rocks. I was advised to take a turkey baster to spray the rocks of and to let the filter take care of this build up, but as I mentioned it is not doing the best job. My substrate has also began to be covered in this brown "stuff". <Please read over the materials posted on WWM re algae control> Finally I was looking into purchasing a protein skimmer. <A very good idea> I know that you recommend EuroReef, but the info that I have gathered suggests that they be placed on the sump. With the Eco setup there is no sump so I was wondering if I should just place it on the side of the tank, or if there is some other kind of skimmer that I should purchase. <All sorts... please read the... on skimmer selection> My tank is fish only so I am basically the clean-up crew and I am trying to make my job as easy as possible. Also if you have any other suggestions on keeping the tank clean please let me know. <Read...> Sorry one more question, what is your opinion of the Nano 24. I am looking at starting a reef tank and want to get the most bang for my buck. Is there any modifications that must be done to this system to make it reef ready (light filtration upgrades) or is it good to go. Thanks again <Read... Bob Fenner> New marine set up and praise 1/30/06 Greetings from Florida! First off, I want to thank all of you at WWM for the quality job you all do and for the mass of useful information and honest opinions you supply to us learners. I first started reading from your site after I purchased a green spotted puffer, or Tetraodon nigroviridis, about a year ago. I was new to the hobby then and purchased this adorable fish without any research and placed him in my 37 gallon freshwater community tank. I soon realized my blunder after finding your site and reading Pufferpunk's GSP article. I quickly took action and set the tank up to provide the attention this little bugger needed. The tank is now brackish, which he has all to himself and is even treated to snails a couple times a week that I am breeding in another small tank. It is a year later and he is still happy and living healthy thanks to you. So now after exhaustive reading from your site and keeping Newman (I am a NASCAR fan) alive for a year I now think I am ready to take on the challenge of a marine setup. I am in the plumbing stage of a 90 gallon FOWLR tank that will house only a striped Burrfish, or Cyclichthys schoepfi and around 90 pounds of live rock. The tank is drilled for two one and a half inch overflows with 90's turned upward in the upper corners of the back glass. I have built a glass horizontal overflow running the entire length of the tank for good skimming with a Little Giant 3 MDQX-SC with about three feet of head providing the return from a 20 gallon sump. The sump has three sections, one for a skimmer (not yet acquired but probably an AquaC EV 120), another with live rock and the last for return, all are split by baffles. One bulkhead drains into the skimmer section of the sump while the other is split between the skimmer section and a 10 gallon refugium above the sump that will have Chaetomorpha macro algae and will overflow into the sump return section. I built my own 18' stand for the 90 gallon and have built a television stand that houses the sump and refugium next to the main tank. Now here is where it gets crazy, since the TV stand was going to be pretty ugly hiding the skimmer and refugium. And since I can't house corals with the puffer, I decided to add an 8 gallon display bowfront acrylic tank on the front of the TV stand to add a little beauty and try out a nano reef. This tank is plumbed into the 20 gallon sump via one ¾ inch overflow in the upper corner draining into the skimmer section and a Quiet One 800 in the sump return section providing the return. <You will need to throttle down the discharge on this pump> Here is my question, am I in the wrong by trying to set up a nano-reef plumbed into the sump on the puffer tank? <Mmm, no> Will it work providing I am ok with power outage drainage situations or would I be better off plumbing the nano-reef into its own smaller sump, which is still doable given my space considerations? <I would very likely tie these two systems together as originally planned> Or am I missing something about overflow if one pump burns out? <Mmm, not as far as I can tell... water runs downhill, payday's on Friday> Will I need to provide more filtration in the sump like a micron filter bag on the drains or the addition of carbon? <Probably not... these take a bit more maintenance than most folks like... but can be added later if you'd like to try> Please let me know what y'all think, like I said before, it is still being plumbed in and now would be the time for me to make some changes. I just haven't read about anyone attempting this, it seemed like a great idea at the time and looks like it is going to be beautiful, but I thought I would write y'all for the first time and run my set up by you. Thanks again for all of the information; every one of you is amazing. Jonathan <Mmm, please do give the "Pump Selection" FAQs a read-over if you haven't bought/committed to the Little Giant... these are a bit noisy and heat producing compared to other choices. Bob Fenner> Marine Aquarium Equipment
12/26/05 Hello I have just got a 210 gal tank with boxes
already drilled. I am new to salt water and would like to get an idea
what the best stuff would be to start running this size tank, filter
pump all the good stuff. <Well Rob opinions on brands are highly
variable even amongst the crew but I will give you my personal
opinion. First off I always recommend an oversized and
efficient protein skimmers, to name a few brands I like, Euro-Reef,
A.S.M., Aqua C, Deltec, Tunze and M.R.C. As for return pumps
I am fond of Tunze, Iwaki, Red Dragon, and
Sequence. That's just my opinion on two necessary
fixtures but there is much more reading and other opinions for you to
look up my friend. Start reading on www.wetwebmedia.com re:
equipment and for personal opinions check out our chat forum at
www.wetwebfotos.com/talk. Good luck to you and your new set-up, have
patience and research, research, research.> Thanks Rob <Welcome,
Adam J.> Tank Setup/FAQs, Art, and Science - 12/04/05 I am a newbie who has been reading your site and everything else can find. <<A good way to start.>> My question is for a new FOWLR setup. I plan on using about 60lbs of live rock (should I use more?) <<Probably plenty...for either tank size. The idea is to strike a balance between adding enough to provide hiding/resting places for the fish, not overcrowding the tank (allowing swimming room), supplementing the filtration system, and creating a display that is aesthetically pleasing.>> and a wet dry (not sure which brand) on a pre- drilled tank. My question since I am confused by your site, <<?>> what makes a sump different from the wet dry? <<Hmm...is all explained on the site...many times over...a simple Google search finds much info re. make a start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sumprffiltfaqs.htm and keep following/reading the indices in blue until you understand.>> Is it the lack of bio-balls? <<Not necessarily>> Also does the sump have live rock, sand or something else in there? <<It can>> Can I make either one with a spare tank (I'm pretty handy)? <<Certainly...have a look through our DIY FAQs for links to sites with ideas/plans: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/diytksfaqs.htm>> I would appreciate if you could clear this up for me I read as much as I can but sometimes the more you read the more conflicting opinions you get and I want to start off right. <<This hobby is much about opinions...the information you seek is available on the site...read and learn. EricR>> Setting up two-tank system. - 10/17/05 Crew, <<Hello, Travis with you today.>> First of all, I must say many thanks to the crew for your knowledge and help. <<Our pleasure>> Now to my question. I am going to convert my 55 gal. FW cichlid tank to saltwater and was thinking about adding another one on the stand below. It would be another 55 gal. In relation to the whole "the more water the better" idea, would connecting them with plumbing etc. be possible? <<Done every day. It is called a sump.>> If possible, would it be logical? <<It would not be logical to do two true displays on one stand due to the lighting, filtration, etc. A sump can be split into sections for filtration, refugium, and about anything else you want to do with it.>> Any info on skimming/filtering/circulating two 55's would be greatly appreciated. <<You will find plenty of that information in the marine section of this site or by using the Google function on the front page. I suggest starting with sumps.>> With many, many thanks, Matt Parrish <<TravisM>> New tank setup filtration 9/19.5/05 Hi there, <Hi> I am in the process of setting up a brand new 72 gallon bowfront saltwater aquarium. I have done a fair bit of research but there seems to be much conflicting advice on filtration. I want to do it right, so I was hoping you could give me some sound advice on what else I need to buy for this system so I have the best chance for success. I have a "reef-ready" tank. Under the stand, there is a refugium that contains live sand and "mud" and a submersible pump-everything is connected, filled, and up and running. <Great so far> To the tank I have added water, dechlorinator drops, and salt. My hydrometer says the salt level is perfect. I want to have a Fish Only tank with the potential to add some live rock later (FOWLR). My LFS has been helpful but they did not mention any type of mechanical filtration, protein skimmers, etc-after reading your site, I feel as though the biological filter I have may not be sufficient. Is it? <The refugium will act as a filter. Ideally you should get some Caulerpa for the ref. This will help absorb nutrients in the water and help keep nitrate/phosphate levels down. A protein skimmer in my opinion is a must. It too will greatly improve your water quality. Live rock also acts as a bio filter along with your live sand.> I have 40 pounds of live sand and 40 pounds of Carib-sea Aragonite. Right now, the tank is running with just that substrate plus what is in the refugium. I was told not to add fish for about 1-2 weeks and then live rock could be added in stages later on. I know biological filtration is best, but don't I also need some type of mechanical filtration? What do you recommend that I add to this system? <I would recommend that your total flow be around 15X the tank volume to keep things stirred up so they can find their way into the refugium. You may have to add a couple of power heads to achieve this as I don't know what size pump you have for your return water. A couple of hermit crabs in the ref wouldn't hurt either.> The LFS said for cycling purposes I could put in a few damsels in a week or two-I am just looking to do it right. Initially, I wanted a reef tank which is why I bought the reef ready model and the refugium, but I have since decided to start with Fish Only since I am new to saltwater. Any advice greatly appreciated! <Go to the Wet Web Media site and Google search "tank set up" for more helpful advice. Do search same site for any other subjects you are interested in. James (Salty Dog)> Thanks in advance!! Morgan Freshwater Convert New to Marine Keeping, set-up 8/12/05 Hi
Guys (and Girls), <Howdy Matt> Firstly thanks for all the
information and advice on your site, it's clearly one of the best
sites I've found for comprehensive information and it's helped
me on my decisions a lot so far with deciding how to setup my tank, but
I'd like to check my decisions with you and ask a couple of
questions relating to filtration as I've read/heard a lot of
conflicting or vague information from different sources. <Okay>
I've got a fixed amount of space for my tank due to it's
location, I plan to keep my existing tank (24"x12"x18"
which should give me 22.44 U.S. gallons (87.3 liters), I know this is
on the small side for a beginner setup (I've heard a value of
approx 50gal min for a beginner tank) but I plan to be changing water
and testing the chemistry more regularly to counteract this. <Can be
done> My initial outline plan for the tank is as follows: - Eheim
Classic 2213 Canister Filter - Prizm Red Sea Pro Protein Skimmer
<Mmm, have you bought this already? You might want to read re its
use, alternatives if not> - 33lbs of Live Rock (15kg) - 100w Heater
- Twin 55w T5 PC Combined White/Actinic Tubes In a custom Hood with
Fans (on a variable speed controller) This is what my LFS recommended
to me for a fish/inverts/soft corals setup in this tank, so far
I've only purchased the Lighting as I'm planning on building
the hood this weekend and I'm about to get the Skimmer the
following week. <Please do read on WWM re it, other possibilities...
better to investigate, get something useful, perhaps over-sized, in
anticipation of a larger need down the road so to speak> What
I'm concerned about is the filtration, I know that the filter has a
really good flow rate (116 gph) so for a tank of my size it should be
more than enough, but the media is a concern. I've been listening
to 'Talking Reef', a new podcast (talkingreef.com)
<Neat!> and the host was discussing cycling and the nitrogen
cycle, and he mentioned that he thought that biological filtration in
Canister filters was a 'bad idea'. <Canister filters have
some shortcomings on most marine set-ups... this is discussed on
WWM> The filter media that comes with the filter has the following:
EHFIMECH 0.26gal (1L) ca. 5cm Filter Pad EHFISUBSTRAT 0.26gal (1L)
EHFISYNTH 0.26gal (1L) max 1-2cm <Great products... I use them. Need
to be cleaned quite frequently on marine systems however (a pain)...
like once a week... to avoid most of the downsides of "waste"
accumulation> I plan on having my biological filtration being
performed in the live rock as it seems like a really sensible solution,
but I'm concerned about the EHFISUBSTRAT which says that it's a
biological filter? <Yes... as are the other media to extents...>
The Podcast said to be wary of filters that say 'Bio
Filter or Bio Filtration' as they promote the removal of nitrite,
which is great for a FO tank but not for a reef tank as it produces
large amounts of Nitrates which can affect Inverts and Corals, should I
be wary of this? <Ultimately, yes... with some brief experience you
will find what this all "really means"... not life/death,
black/white, good/bad... but a bit more maintenance, water changing,
algae... You will see> The other thing which I noticed is they
don't have carbon in there? <Can if you want> In
my freshwater tank we always used carbon as a stage in the internal
filter? however I have noticed that in a few articles it
says that Carbon can leach nutrients from the water and one aquatics
supplier had a note on their filter carbon saying (freshwater
only?)? I'm not planning on getting corals for a while
yet but I like to be prepared for the future. Should I avoid
the carbon or should I add it to the canister filter? <Some carbons
do indeed have a capacity for adding phosphate... you can avoid them...
choose others that don't...> Once the tank becomes established
I'd like to add a refugium for all the reasons you've mentioned
but for the moment constraints of cost (and space) prohibit this, do
you think I'm on the right track with this setup as it stands, can
you see anything glaringly obvious kit-wise I've missed? <Mmm,
for your first go... I would keep reading, and not buy the Eheim
canister filter... Perhaps a large/r hang-on power filter for now would
be better... along with your skimmer, LR... You obviously have a good
(sharp, curious, discerning) mind... better to "enjoy the
process" of getting your initial system "right" for
now... and not fighting (too much) with poor/er gear choices from the
get-go. Sorry for all the allusions, manners of speech. Bob Fenner>
Many Thanks, Matt
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