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Riff 1000 (Reef) Hi there. I'm an absolute beginner and have just ordered a 125 gallon tank and a Aqua-medic Riff 1000 filtration system. As you'll be aware, the instruction manual is not at all helpful. Do you know where I can find a step by step guide to setting up such a system. I really want to do this myself rather than have someone do it for me as it will help me to understand the 'mechanics' behind it all. <Mark, here is Aqua Medic's web site. You should contact them with the problem. James (Salty Dog)> Thanks <You're welcome> Upgrading at last!! Hi Anthony!! Thank you so much for all your help with my upgrade from a 55g reef to a 75. I have read on the equipment I needed and how I can use the one I already have, I asked you for some pro advise and this is where I am: -75 G (glass) Bulk with 1 overflow (drilled) simple gasket) -Berlin Sump BS200 sea life w/double input -EV-120 -3 maxi jets (1200) -440w on fluorescent (two 03blue, 2 50/50) -2100 Rio (as return pump) Is this an ok approach? Am I missing something?? <very fine> If you remember I currently have a 55 and this is what I have in it: -1 clown -10+ blue legged hermits -10+ snails -1 flame Angel -1 torch -1 colt -1 frogspawn -1 Ricordea -50+ pds LR (I plan to buy more... Probably up to 120pds, money you know...) <yes agreed> -about 35+pds of pink live Fiji. -3 heads of pulsating Xenias (pink) Now... my questions are: 1.since DRY sand is cheaper Can I buy 40pds of dry pink Fiji Arag sand and another 20 of live and use the other 40 I have in my 55? to make a DSB for NNR? <if the grain size is similar, I have no complaints... else settling will occur> If so... Logic tells me to put the dry one first and the live one latest <agreed> (is this enough for a 75g, 48 inches long 18 width?) it will be a total close to 80pds of sand) <not sure what the density of the sand is. As a rule... 1/2" or less... or 3" or more> 2.I already have my tank (the 75) plus the above mentioned equipment, and I just don't know for sure how to move ALL (livestock, LR, and sand) from my 55 into the new one and how long the transfer should last (so I won't kill what I have and majorly stress the 2 fishes). I came up with a BATTLE plan, and I hope you can read thru it and if there's something wrong with it I hope you could please tell me what it is and how to correct it, so I can successfully move/transfer my tank. WATER/LR/LIVESTOCK)!! UPGRADE BATTLE PLAN: 1. Set the tank, sump, and any other equipment in place. 2. Since I will use the water I currently have in my 55g I will only need around 20 more gallons for the tank and 15 to 20 more for my sump! <agreed> 3. Place the 60 pds of (DRY and live sand) in tank (if you answered yes to DRY above) 3. Put around 25 gallons of new water RO/DI in new tank!! 4. AERATE and run the new water thru the sump and tank for 2/3 days while matching: PH, SG, temp, cal, alk and to reduce possible traces of silicate and others. <OK> 5.(AT NIGHT TIME) Siphon (from the 55) 20 to 30 gallons of water into the 75!! and while doing this... 6. Move the LR to it's new home to a corner (so later on I can easily place the sand I have in the 55) 7. Run the new water already Matched) with the one from the 55, plus the LR and new sand for 8/12 hours. 8. Move the sand I have on the 55 to the new one!! <here I would have a barrel ready and first drain the new tank temporarily (use fast pump(s)) and add live sand to a waterless tank... else pouring into the wet filled tank will make a cloudy ness. The temporarily empty tank will make stacking easier too> 9. Disperse LR thru new tank!! 10. Move Corals, snails and hermit crabs. 11. Move Fishes!! 12. Siphon the water left from 55 to the 75!! 13. PRESTO!! The whole move will be done in 3 to 5 days tops! Do you have any recommendations for me? Is this a good plan? <all sounds reasonable and safe> can you add anything else or replace something in it?? <as above> Please help me, help my tank!! THANK YOU!! I know you are extremely busy... so ANY help will be mostly appreciated (sorry about grammar)!! JOHN (Costa Rica) Pura Vida!! <with kind regards, Anthony> New Reef Tank II Thanks for the quick response (I'm not used to that). <We aim to please.> A few short responses - I planned on letting the rock cure - knowing some amount of die off will occur during shipment on any LR - again - patience - I don't believe in shortcuts in any hobby or in anything for that matter - in my experience they tend to be just the opposite. <I wanted to point out that I know a marine wholesaler that sells to one of the big e-tailers. This wholesaler sells the unnamed e-tailer uncured, fresh rock. They sell it as fully cured, but my wholesale friend contends they do not have a facility to cure the amount of rock that they buy.> WOW! 4" - 6"? I worry with that kind of depth that if the clean-up crew doesn't do a thorough job the detritus may get deep into the sand and go anaerobic? <Two very different point here. If the sand is a fine grade of aragonite, detritus is not able to work its way down into the sand bed. The second part about the bacteria becoming anaerobic is correct, but not bad. That is where and how denitrification occurs.> I guess I could do 2-3" of "non live" and 2-3" of live to get the depth and eventually it will convert. <You could even use less. Most people I know use 90% dead sand and just seed it with some livesand. Plus your liverock will have a whole host of hitchhikers that will migrate to the sand.> If I go the Louver route - I guess you just "stack" it since it isn't 6" thick? <Use the egg crate as a shelf with PVC pipe holding it up above the sand.> Thanks again - I'm an avid fan of your site - keep up the good work - I just wish the Internet had been more readily available when I was in this 16-18 years ago. I learned to ask everybody's advice/opinion and then make up your own mind. <A good strategy.> The Internet makes that a little easier. We all need all of the help we can get - if for no other reason than for the livestock...I hate seeing any of it die. <Me too.> Take Care <And you do the same. -Steven Pro> New Reef Tank Good Afternoon (or what ever time it may be when you get around to this message) <Mid-afternoon/early evening here.> I have read (...and read...and read....etc.) on your site and many others and many books. I believe more information leads to a more educated aquarist. <Yes, one of the two secrets to this hobby. Be educated and be patient and success will follow.> I don't mean to take a short cut - by writing this email - but I have yet to find the answer to my question. First a little background. I have a 45 gallon tall (12"D x 24"H x 36"W) glass tank. I had it set up in college (and for several years after college) as a fish only saltwater tank - with crushed coral, minimal lighting, a hang on and a canister mechanical filter a an undergravel filter powered by powerheads. <Very standard setup for the time.> After the initial trial and error problems I eventually had a very nice set-up with quite a few very healthy fish. It was an aggressive tank (snowflake eel, porcupine puffer, clown trigger, Hawaiian yellow tank, Koran angel, flame angel, maroon clown, cleaner wrasse...) <Holy crowded Batman!> and all of these fish thrived and grew in my small tank. They even survived my worrisome move from college to my new apartment some 2.5 hours away - without one casualty. Two years after moving into the apartment I bought a house in a suburb and transferred the tank a second time. Within one month of the move - every fish died. I cleaned the tank up and started all over - only to have the fish die again. I have tied the problems to the poor tap water quality. <Perhaps, also possible the tank reached a critical threshold in regards to water quality and the bioload's effect on it.> I then had kids so I got out of the aquarium business for a while - but am now interested in starting back. <Glad to welcome you back.> I have decided to go the Berlin method (reef & fish) and I am trying to keep everything as simple as possible. To combat the poor H2O - I have purchased a RO/DI unit and will also use an old UV unit for the initial water make-up (that is - I will not have the RO/DI and UV mounted on the tank - only for initial water and make-up water). <I consider purified water a must; RO, RO/DI, or just DI.> I have purchased a CPR Bak Pak 2R Protein Skimmer and a Hagan #804 - 400GPM power head with inlet filter. I have upgraded to 220W of lighting 50/50 (2 - 55W actinic blue and 2 - 55W 6750K white bulbs) and 2 Ebor Jager 100W heaters. I will not use either of my mechanical filters. I am planning on purchasing a 50 lb. box of "cured" LR (Fiji/Marshall/Tonga or a mix) <Allegedly cured. Please always recure any liverock shipped in fresh.> and approx. 50 lbs. of aragonite live sand to get approx. 1.5 - 2" of sand bed depth. <I would recommend 4-6".> I had planned on setting the LR up on cross sections of PVC to get it slightly above the sand for cleaning purposes but then I saw your suggestion on egg crate or "Louver". I haven't yet decided on which. OK - now to my main question: Once I have the water in the tank and the salinity and temperature where I need it - I will add the LS and LR (side note: I will probably add the sand first so I can then place the "Louver" or PVC and then I will place the LR - any problems yet? <A few minor notes above, but no problems.> Also, what about the LS that is "trapped" inside the PVC or "Louver"? <Not a big concern. Allow the sand to "breath" by drilling holes into the PVC to stop any cutoff areas.> My question - once the tank is set-up with the LR and LS and is in the process of cycling - do I need to reduce my lighting for a time being so the algae will not flourish in the absence of the cleaning critters. <Depends on the rock quality, how much die off, and how many nutrients are released. Not going to hurt to leave the lights off for a while.> I planned on adding the clean-up crew after the LR and LS has had a sufficient time to cycle so as not to have such a big bio-load. <Or to end up killing them with ammonia and nitrite toxicity.> I will have the lights set up on timers so the blue's come on an hour or so before the whites and visa versa at night. I plan on having the skimmer working full blast and cleaning it daily during the start-up/cycle period. <Good.> So - what do you think - everything OK so far? - I don't have room for a refugium and I want it to be as simple as possible - so I am hoping this will be a good start. <Sounds fine.> Would be interested to hear your opinion and I'm open to any/all suggestions. ~J.T. Craddock <Good luck. -Steven Pro> New Marine Aquarist Questions Hi Bob, I started a marine aquarium in March. It's a 37g Eclipse system to which I added an "upgrade" lighting package - which isn't too much better than the one that came with it. I put in about 25lbs of cured LR, after which I left it alone for 7 weeks before adding a few damsels. (This was a great time to set our house temperature at a level such that I could keep the aquarium at the constant temperature.) <Must be a warm house!> After the 7 weeks I added three yellow-tailed blue damsels. They did fine - even surviving a little ammonia spike. In July I removed 2 of the damsels and added a beautiful flame angel and a Banggai cardinalfish. (All the fish are still doing well.) A week later, I added 4 turbo snails, 1 hermit crab and a shrimp that the LFS labeled as a camel shrimp. (I plan to add 3 canary/yellow wrasses at some point later. That will be the total fish load.) How's that mix sound to you? <Which species is this? The common name fits a few animals... I would likely only have one... unless this is a very small, social species> I have been conscientious about maintaining water quality, doing 5 percent water changes 3 times per week in an attempt to rid the system of hair algae and some red slime and lower nitrates which climbed shortly after adding the livestock to between 20 and 50. (I do have some nice purple and dark red coralline algae growing too.) I have meticulously kept the water at sg=1.024, t=78, ph=8.6, kh=3.5, with no ammonia or nitrites, and used only highly filtered water.) All water changes have been done by mixing Instant Ocean and water in a 2.5g bucket (dedicated and it was never used with detergents) and then mixing overnight by putting in a powerhead. When I add the water it is within 1/2 degree and the exact same SG as the aquarium water. <Hmm, do read through the algae control sections: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm> I was feeding once per day, using frozen brine shrimp that I had thawed and spooned in the tank and kept refrigerated. The daily dose was about 1/7 or less of a cube - being that a frozen cube lasted about a week. About 3 weeks ago, I started using a Tetra marine flake food. I put in only a few flakes every other day, and on the alternate day feed the brine shrimp. I am now feeding every other day (again in an attempt to keep the nitrate level down). <Read over the Nitrate FAQs on the WWM site as well> 1. All 4 snails have died since I got them. They would start out active and at some point move off the glass to the LR and eventually just stay on the sand until they died. Last night I found the crab (actually only a small part of it) lying on the sand. It seems that the shrimp had eaten him. Is it possible that the high (30-50) nitrate level is responsible for killing the snails and crab when the fish seem quite happy? <Yes, this and other non-seen influences> Any other common things that could be killing the inverts but not the fish? <Ah! Yes... other chemical, physical anomalies that hobbyists don't have awareness of, "windows" to test for...> 2. The camel shrimp is getting to be a fairly aggressive eater. (He seems very healthy. He has molted three times in 3 months.) When food is introduced into the tank, he scoots up the glass and goes right to the top to get it. He is also getting fairly big - perhaps 2 1/2 inches long. Is his behavior unusual? <Do look on our site... to determine the species of this shrimp...> Is this a species that is compatible with the fish I have (1 yellow-tailed blue damsel, 1 flame angel, 1 Banggai cardinalfish, and I would like to add 3 canary/yellow wrasses later? <Doesn't sound like what I call a "Camel Shrimp"...> 3. The flame angel often comes up the side of the shrimp as if he wants the shrimp to clean him. Is a camel shrimp a cleaner shrimp? <Would be better if it were... I would likely trade it in for one> The camel at first was afraid of the flame angel and would defensively fight to keep it away, but now it kind of rides the angel and appears to attack it. It is no longer afraid. This little ride does not seem to deter the angel. He keeps coming back. Any idea of what is going on during these little sessions? <Testing... aggression... attempts at feeding...> 4. Is doing a 5 percent water change 2 times per week excessive? <Hmm, no... could be done less frequently, larger %... please see: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water.htm> Thanks for any advice you can give to me, and thanks for maintaining your web site! <You're welcome my friend. Be chatting. Bob Fenner> Regards, Mark Starting a salt -fish only tank Hi, currently I have a 55 gal. freshwater aquarium that I've had for about 7 or 8 yrs. Now I think it's time to graduate to salt. I'm going to start out with a fish only for now. I have a few things already and would like to know if this setup sounds ok to you. For filtration ;1 Merlin plus 120 w/cap 800 pump,1 whisper 4 power filter,1 Prizm protein skimmer. Heating;1 300 wt. Visitherm heater, and just regular VHO lighting. I don't have the substrate, decor, or marine test kit yet, but will in near future. Also I have a 10 gal. tank for quarantine, but no filter yet. I'm trying to keep costs in line a little bit here. If you would comment on these things a bit, and or have some advise for me, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Rob S. <All gear sounds fine... Would use one of the current filters on your ten gallon if/when you need to use it... try some live rock even though this isn't a "reef tank"... and do read over our site: www.WetWebMedia.com on the subjects of Marine Substrates, Set-Up, Filtration, Stocking... Be chatting, Bob Fenner> New tank Hi Bob, I'm writing to ask a few questions. We recently bought a new 60 gallon tank for saltwater fish and we took it to get the levels checked. The guy said that there was a little high level of ammonia but that it was ok to introduce the fish to it. <Mmm, not... best not to introduce any "macro-life" if there is any ammonia or nitrite present...> We have a yellow tang and a blue damsel in there now along with 3 regular rocks that are allowed in saltwater but they are not live rock I believe. although I am new to this. I noticed that when we moved the yellow tang to the new tank from the old tank which was a 30 gallon it started to breathe rapidly I do know that this is caused by stress our temp level is a little high just above 80 degrees salt level is good. <Hmm, could be all of these... or likely a combination> What would you recommend we do to help the tang out to breathe easier and slow it down .keep in mind that the tank is only a week old. Please help! <Please read over our site (www.WetWebMedia.com) re marine set-up, ammonia... whatever else you would like... At this point I would feed NOTHING to the fishes till the ammonia, and in turn nitrite are gone (as in undetectable by measure), I would add at least some live rock (see: http://wetwebmedia.com/liverock1.htm)... Much more to say... if you'd like other opinions, input, please join our Chatforum: http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/ And do look for another livestock dealer. Bob Fenner> Thank you, zerocool Marine Set-Up Hi Bob, I have a few questions today. First of all, my main tank is 60"w x 30"h x 12"d. I know this does not have a huge surface area, but that is the custom size that I had to have made for the placement (a see through from the living room to the kitchen, which is closed in a ceiling high cabinet). It has a built in overflow on one end that leads down under the cabinet to a sump that is 20"w x 16.5"h x 10.5"d. What I want to know is, because of the small surface area of the main tank, would it be o.k. to add either a powerhead, or an air pump into the sump to augment air mixing into the water instead of in the main tank. <Both...> I don't want anything showing in the main tank such as a powerhead. If an air pump is o.k., do I add an airstone believe this is not recommended because of the salt content, and the bubbles) or just the air tube, or if a powerhead is there anyway it should be done? <More agitation, air-mixing, mixing the better> Second, from reading on your website, you're not crazy about Sea Clone protein skimmers for bigger size tanks, is it o.k. for my size (about 100 gallons) <Not really> and it has to go in the sump under the cabinet. I saw a Sea Clone model #scps-100 that says for up to 100 gallons. If this is no good, what other make, or model can you recommend. (what about the Red Sea Berlin model if I remember the name correctly a sales person once told me about for in the sump, although it is very much more expensive then the Sea Clone). <See the "Skimmer Selection" FAQs posted on our site (www.WetWebMedia.com) here> Third, is it true that elevating the oxygen content in the water, that this will also help raise the PH level. <yes, to an extent> My PH level always seems to be a bit low, while all my other readings are fine. (Am wondering about this theory to aid with both my problems: small surface area, and low PH). Just how do you know if you have enough oxygen in the water in the first place. <There are test kits, electronic probes... or just close observation of your livestock...> None of my fish gasp for air, or are ever at the top looking for air at the surface. I am only concerned because I know for a fact that my surface area compared to the tank size is not the best., is my sump too small to use as a refugium also with a skimmer in it for LR, and macroalgae. <It's close to minimum... troubles if your power goes off and the sump is near-full> Also, on your web site, I didn't find very much on an Eibli angelfish. Are they good with other fish (presently have a yellow tang ,3 oscellaris,2 four striped humbug damsels, neon gobies ,Royal gramma, large turbo snails, might pick at these, I know, red, and blue legged hermit crabs, and will like to add others after, but not sure what at the moment). Do they grow big, are they finicky eaters, and what should I know about them. <Listed under the genus (Centropyge) of Angels... a relatively sturdy, easygoing species> The one I saw in the LFS was a bit different then the one pictured on your site (more colorful fins, actually a lot prettier looking in person then the picture). I think this is enough questions at the moment. Oh yeah, one last question. Do you know of any stores in the New York city area that is reliable. <Please see our Chatforum re this... link on our WWM homepage. There is a section there for "local stores"> Mainly for a protein skimmer, and a chiller. Also what make, and model of chiller do you recommend for my size tank? <See the site> I live in Montreal Canada, but have family living in New York that I see regularly, and they would be able to get things from there for me (where I live everything is usually double, some things even more then that compared to prices in the states, and yes that goes for the fish also, and the price of a protein skimmer, or especially a chiller can be incredibly expensive, too much for what I can afford. I want to be able to get in touch with the store, and get all the info beforehand, so that my relative can know exactly what to ask for. I hope you can help me with this. Many thanks in advance!! Greg Montreal, Canada <Do check through the etailers listed on our links page... they can get you everything at a reasonable cost. Bob Fenner> New 50 Gal Reef tank?????? I have read so much in your web site that I am on brain overload! <How'd you like to write it?> Great information. Okay, I have an 50 Gal AGA tank, currently filled with RO water. In place is the protein skimmer, mechanical filter if needed, and two power heads for circulation. I have about 1 to 1.5 inches of sand. I don't really know where to go next. I want a reef set up. Maybe a few fish for viewing pleasure. I need help on lighting. Metal halide VS Compacts. <CFs for you my friend> Next, can I just use a protein skimmer and live rock??? <Yes> I have read so much and some say yes others say I need a two tank system? <Sump, refugiums are a good idea... You can/could always add one later...> I work in hospital med-evac system and my schedule is hell. I need simple tasks, and I have much patience. I am not looking to rush things.) Can you please guide me in the right direction? <I will help you.> Of one other ?, is about 1-1.5 pounds of rock right? <Yes> I ask because I'm looking to buy the lights and rock in the next week or two. Thanks for you time and help. Robert. <Many good times ahead. Look forward to them. Bob Fenner> Need some advice on Aquarium (Marine set-up) Hi Robert, Could I ask your advice on a few things regarding my aquarium? <Sure> It's a 125 gallon tank, presently torn down. I found that I could NOT keep up with the nitrates no matter how many water changes I did - it was (and will be) a fish only tank. <Hmm, please read through the nitrates FAQs on our site: http://wetwebmedia.com/no3probfaqs.htm and beyond> I sent my fish off to live in a friend's tank, and am now redesigning my system. My major question at this point is whether or not I should go to live rock as opposed to my wet-dry, and, if so, can I put the rock in the sump? <Hmm, well, you could (I would have suggested that you do) try both the live rock and the wet-dry together... perhaps slowly removing the plastic media... And you can just place the live rock in your sump... or in the main tank, or both...> The sump itself is not all that large, but I could have a larger container fabricated if needed. <The larger the better... I would have one made, find something big that will fit the space available... thirty or more gallons if it will go> Can I stack the live rock on top of itself in the sump? <Yes> Also, should I use live sand in addition to the rock, and, if so, should I just put it in the bottom of the tank, or is a plenum a good idea? <Either... can be a good idea... you can do this modification later if you want to experiment, see what sort of water quality values the live rock alone generates> Should I also put some live rock in the tank? <A good idea, yes> I have already increased my pumping capacity to 600 GPH (measured), have a decent protein skimmer and a UV - anything else I'm overlooking? <Perhaps a great deal... please read through our "Marine System Set-up" sections on www.WetWebMedia.com> My goal here is to design a system that I can keep up with, and that will be healthy for my fish - I am not planning to keep any corals or invertebrates. Thanks in advance for any and all help! Best Wishes, Michael Cohn <Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner> Re: Need some advice on Aquarium Thanks, Bob! I went ahead and went through the Marine Setup article as you suggested - very informative! Thanks again for the advice, Michael <Anytime my friend. Be chatting. Bob Fenner> 100-125G Fish Only w/ Live Rock...'soup to nuts'... (set-up) Dear Bob, A few follow-up questions requesting clarification or further information based on your response to the 100G 'dream tank' aggressive fish only w/ live rock setup that I am proposing for your review.… First thing first. Never thought I'd be so fortunate as to have the 'Be chatting my friend' directed at me…I'm indebted to you for the response and invaluable advice. <And I to/for your friendship> I remind you that I have read your book and I frequent the WetWebMedia website, however I have done an extraordinary amount of research recently, so please forgive me if some of the teaching you pass on has slipped out of my ear and I am asking redundant questions… <No worries> 1) Can you recommend an order of introduction for the specimens I have planned for the following specimens: -Harlequin Tuskfish -Volitans Lion -Snowflake Eel -Porcupine fish (Holocanthus) <Lion first, then Eel, Puffer last> Also, you mentioned that 100G is just enough to sustain the following specimens for a lifetime. Just let me know--do you think I am 'lowballing' and cheating these guys of space with a 100G---if you think I need more, I will surely conscientiously invest based on your guidance to give them a happy life. <They should do fine for a couple-three years> 2) In first email I suggest that I am still not decided on whether to do a hang-on-tank (h-o-b) skimmer or a sump setup. I request your endorsement for either the h-o-b Aqua-C or the sump Turboflotor, and your response is…[[[<Yes my friend... with new products, exposure (first and not hand)>]]]. My question is. can you please suggest the brand which your recent experience lends highest reliability for 125G? What for h-o-b make/models? What for submersible/sump make/models? <The Turboflotor is marginally better in both formats for a 125> 3) In first email I ask if an initial setup of 45 lbs live rock (with 45 lbs base/dry rock and 250 lbs dry aragonite to be seeded) will be enough bio-filtration for 125G messy eater tank. My question and your response are as follows: [[[My concern is that, with the messy eaters I have selected, the bio filter will not be able to keep up w/ denitrification.) <It will/would not>]]]. My question is…I am confused about your response--are you comfortable with 45 lbs live rock initially, or should I plan to begin with a larger quantity? <45 pounds is fine for a start... and a good increment to add to as time, funds allow... it's about a "box" quantity... Good for curing in batch-sizes> 4) I tell you that upon further 'research' on your web site I have decided that you would strongly suggest a sump for this setup! <Yes, far more flexible> I ask lastly that you point me in the right direction regarding this new, foreign concept for me and let me know if I am on the correct path: A Rubbermaid container, planned to be filled halfway when running, with mechanical filtration Dacron in the front area, then passing through a skimmer, then to return. Place a media bag of carbon in sump and refresh every few weeks. Questions I have regarding this setup: 1) can you point me to a web site or technical guidance on setting up the initial phase of the pump to ensure that water passes exclusively through Dacron before entering area where skimmer is? <Gladly: http://www.ozreef.org/> 2) can you tell me if it is ok to merely 'drop' carbon media in bottom of sump, or if water must be directed to flow over it in order for chemical to be effective? <Place in the filter flow path... in some baffle area to prevent the bag it's in from getting sucked into the recirculation pump.> 3) Can you recommend a suggested size in gallons that this sump should be for a 100-125G tank? <The bigger the better. Nothing under 20 gallons> 4) can you recommend a brand/make/model and size of both overflow and return pump for this setup for the given sump & aquarium size? <Yes. www.cprusa.com> Thanks so much. Hope to be chatting my friend, --Dave <We will indeed. Bob Fenner> No questions just pictures Hi Bob Fenner, I just thought I'd send you a picture I drew on paintbrush program of my tank. I thought it would be a nice change from my usual, continuous question asking. <A very nice couple of diagrams> I made and designed everything myself - except overflow box (just got tired of making stuff at this point) and main tank (I already had it). Everything is working good, except for various plumbing leaks. <Leaks? Did you primer the PVC ahead of solventing? As you might know there are actual "standards" for putting even plastic pipe together...> Thanks for being a conscientious marine aquarist and teaching me how to be one. Jana <Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>
Question from Thailand Hi Bob, My name is Tanaphon Manavutiveth. I am Thai and I am currently in Thailand. I used to study in the USA for 10 years and am interesting in marine aquarium. I settled one marine aquarium 3 years ago when I was a student in the USA and now, I have move back home already. My experience back then wasn't that great, of course, lots of fishes died because of high levels of nitrate and nitrite. I am now putting up together a tank in Thailand and I want to make sure whether I'm doing ok or not, just need expert comment and it would be great if I can have you as a mentor. <Will do my best> I am planning to run a marine aquarium shop which will also provide service like seavisions.com. It seems like there is no store in Thailand who is customizing acrylic aquarium. <A worthy trade> I guess because of the price of it but it is a great opportunity for me if I am going to be the first one. I just came back to Thailand, so, it is very new to me. I don't know much about marine fish in Thailand yet, don't know where all the fishes come from but I guess it would be Indonesia. <This and the Philippines are the world's largest supplying countries of marine fishes and invertebrates. There is some collecting in Thailand as well> I am in the process of planning for this store, so, might need your help again in the future. So, while I am planning for a big project, I want to set up approximately 150 gallons tank (60"x24"x24"). This will be custom made in Thailand. I want to set up this tank and make sure that I can do well because if I can't, I would probably don't want to set up a business. I am thinking about getting a wet-dry filter from the USA, the shipping cost should be pretty high, so, my QUESTIONS for you are, do you think it's necessary to order from the USA? <No. You can buy locally... many good filter systems are made in the Far East... Or, build your own sump system... A good project to become more familiar with customization. Do read through our site: www.WetWebMedia.com and particularly the Links Page... especially "Oz's Reef" for do it yourself plans... invaluable> What if I build one in Thailand as a custom made (seems like lots of people are doing it), would it be the same and would I get the same quality? <Perhaps even better.> If you recommend to customize it, how do I design it (would you have any picture and layout to recommend me?) <See: http://www.ozreef.org/> and what function or mechanism do I need to have to make sure that this wet-dry filter works perfectly for the aquarium? <Read about wet-drys on the WWM site> I am also planning to get a protein skimmer made by ETS, what do you think? I don't mind the cost but, is it the best in the market? <No and skimmer selection is covered on our site> Also, do you recommend me to do a custom made protein skimmer? <No. Too much work, fabrication. Just buy this> Do I need a Reverse Osmosis? Is it the same machine that use for purify drinking water? <Perhaps... check with other hobbyists there re your tap/mains water quality. Maybe a good idea to use R.O.> Do I need to use UV Sterilizer if I have reef system? What if I have fish only or fish and invertebrate, should I use it? <Not at this point... but going forward with your business, linking many tanks together on central filterization, a good idea. See the WWM sites section on the business of ornamental aquatics... a couple of centralized filtration pieces there> Calcium reactor and Ozonizer, these are something new for me, don't know what is the advantage for these machines but if it's going to be very helpful, I would get one. Do you recommend to have it and what brand would be a high-end? <See the site> Thailand is very very very hot and I guess I need a chiller. How do I select it? Do I need to look for a specific function or power? What brand would you recommend? <See the site> A machine call DialSeas from seavisions (seavisions.com), what do you think about it? <A gimmick. More technology than necessary or advised> Do you think it is good? Have you ever look at its webpage? <No, yes> It seems like they have such a great looking customize filtration system. What do you think of it? Where can I get source of information such that or where can I learn about setting up a filtration system? <The site> I am willing to quit my job here in Thailand (if necessary) to go and learn about setting up a high quality marine system. Would you know where to go or who would be willing to teach me or give me some advice? How do I know whether the fish is hand caught or cyanide <Don't quit your current job... Go, volunteer at a local fish store for a few months... and from there, do installs and maintain some systems... this is the best way to learn> My next project after that is to go larger as a wholesaler. I look up in your website and learn about Walt Smith International. I am interesting in joining with them and learn from them. Do you think that it is possible? <Yes> I am still not clear about their business, for all livestock that they have in Tonga and Fiji, do they breed them or do they catch them? <The vast majority are collected. Some species they buy from breeders (Giant Clams, Tank-raised Clownfishes...)> Do you think that they will give me some advice for running large system and learn how to run such a large business? <Yes, the people in the trade who know what they're doing are willing to help others become competent, professional> My whole project seems to be very large, it might sound a bit crazy that I am thinking about doing all this but Bob, I am all for it and I am going to give do my best to make it happens. I know that this mail is quite long and of course, too many questions are inserted in here, so, I am very sorry for taking lots of your time. If this thing is really going to happen, I sure would want to have you visit me in Thailand. By the way, have you ever been to Thailand? <Yes my friend. Was in Phuket to the Andamans, Similans last year. Am off to Krabi next year...> Thank you very much for at least taking your time reading this mail. <You are welcome. I will gladly help you. Bob Fenner> Tanaphon Manavutiveth (Him) 100-125G Fish Only w/ Live Rock...'soup to nuts'... Dear Bob, I have been in the aquarium hobby for about 4 yrs...back & forth between fresh & marine with limited success, as a result of bad information & 'old-school' guidance (amazing how this can quickly make the hobby expensive and emotionally draining!). <Yes> Only in the last 4 months have I been getting top-notch information on how to achieve a successful marine aquarium. I have read several books which focus on the more recent technology & approach (including yours, no doubt the best book available), and I have fully utilized the amazing internet in building my knowledge. I am trying to be as meticulous and patient in possible in beginning my next foray in a marine environment...and I ask your expert review of my blueprints. Forgive me if many of my questions are answered in your site/book...here I've been scouring my brain for the last few months, and every once in awhile something that I had absorbed slips out my ear... <A universal human condition> For the following bio-load (...introduction order you recommend?) -Harlequin Tuskfish -Volitans Lion -Snowflake or Zebra Eel (...which do you like better?) <Snowflakes in general> -Porcupine fish (...which species do you recommend? Hystrix?) <A good choice> I am contemplating -low/breeder 100-125G (...is 100G too small to support a full life for all of above? <Just size enough> This consideration is important--I may not have room for bigger than 100!) -Hang-on-back AquaC skimmer (...not ready to try a sump, yet...unless you feel the need to talk me into it & a Turboflotor! Seems you have recommended this series as the best h-o-b skimmer...does your guidance here change?) <Yes my friend... with new products, exposure (first and not hand)> (...Also, should I utilize an overflow box in the tank for surface skimming, or is this already being achieved w/ the above model?) <Likely enough, though some surface skimming (and/or water removal during changes) is a good idea> -45# live rock, 45# base dry rock (...is this enough live to start? <Yes> My concern is that, with the messy eaters I have selected, the bio filter will not be able to keep up w/ denitrification.) <It will/would not> (...another Q: are mantis shrimp/bristle worms a concern for these beasts, or merely appetizers?) <The latter> (Also, seems PetWarehouse.com offers a slightly better deal than FFexpress on cured live rock...however, I noticed from a FAQ item, but could not find the original reference, that either 'PetWarehouse.com or 'petSwarehouse'.com is a vendor which should be avoided. Can you clarify which you think it may be?) <Hobby/customer reports vary... best/better to check with chatforums like the one related to our site: http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/> -200# aragonite (...a semi-deep sand bed. Should I apply a detritivore kit? <I wouldn't... enough will come about from the live rock> back to concerns above--(a) will this beef up the bio filter?, <Yes> or (b) will bristle worms, etc. be a harm? <No> Or lastly, is it even necessary to seed the sand w/ a fish-only live rock setup?) <Hmm, helpful definitely... best done as you will be... with fresh live rock> -Activated carbon placed in the skimmer. -Dual bulb flo lighting -Dual heaters (...to prevent death of tank if 1 large one malfunctions. What's your favorite brand?) <Ebo-Jager, next the Aquarium Systems imports> -4 powerheads, placed in the four corners of the rear panel of the tank and all facing the front center of the glass (2 on top approx. 240G/hour, 2 on bottom approx. 100G/hour. Again...what's your favorite brand?) -An all-important QUARANTINE setup for introduction & treatment of specimens. <Good idea> Other concern/question: -Mechanical filtration: My research has led me to believe that the harlequin tusk wrasse will serve to aerate and sufficiently stir the substrate, allowing for breakdown of larger waste products. What mechanical filtration do you recommend, besides this natural form? <A sump is best... with simple Dacron in the "drop" area... a canister or hang on or two...> I would prefer to not add a canister filter (or power filter, etc.) to my environment (...seems like enough other aquarists achieve plenty of success without them...but here I could be wrong). Is there a wise, appropriate alternative in your opinion? <You will want strong mechanical/particulate filtration here, trust me> Lastly regarding this...if I use an overflow box for the h-o-b skimmer, can I place a sponge in the box to serve sufficiently as a mechanical filter?) <This will help... you need, want more though> I'm lost--tell me what to do w/ mechanical & overflows. <What do you mean?> Sorry for all the questions as they all say...and thanks so much for the great service you do for us amateur aquarists...and I would like to add that as gratitude for this site you host and service you do, I will utilize the sponsors as my vendors of choice! (Except for the live rock above!!). Dave <Outstanding. Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner> Thanks (Marine Aquarium Set-Up) Hiya, Bob. Just wanted to send you a huge THANK YOU for your valuable website (the best I have yet to find - and god knows, I've spent hours searching), and also for your kindness in answering my husband's questions last week. He has NO patience, but I do believe this hobby is teaching him the value of it (myself being the epiphany of patience - LOL). <You are indeed wise my friend> We are both so crazy about our little tank - 38 gallons - and are avidly planning our next one (there's this beautiful 220g set-up I have my eye on! There goes my new dining room furniture - but who wants to look at a china cabinet when there're so many beautiful fish and interesting thingies in rocks!!!). Because of your website, we bought live rock - which did the trick in getting our chemicals down within a few days. (Nitrites were so high for so very long and killed our poor Lurch (a sea bass poorly advised to my unsuspecting husband by a LFS as a perfect specimen to throw in with the damsels to help our chemical peak--- can you believe?!?)). <Yes, unfortunate> Yesterday, we added a coral beauty and a bi-color blenny who match in color - very cool - to take care of algae, but now I'm concerned there won't be enough to feed them! I'll definitely be keeping my eye on the situation.. We also added a yellow tang and a blue lobster, who is SO funny! He rears up and wags his front legs and antennae, like he's a big dragon saying "Boogha-Boogha!" to the other fish and scares them all away!! I digress from the Thank You but figure you will understand. Anyway, thanks so much, and if you have an address to send some brew to, let me know. I have to go do some reading about the aquatics business now. (Not that I'm obsessing about this whole thing!). Brenda <Ah! My oldest sister's praenomen (first name) as well. Thank you for your enthusiastic writing. Bob Fenner> New 100 G system (set-up...) Hello Mr. Fenner, I have read several of the emails with questions to you and your responses concerning setup of new tanks using live sand/live rock. I have done a lot of research into the various ways to do a tank and would like to get your opinion/guidance on my processes. <Okay> I have a setup a 100 G (60"x18"x22") tank and currently have a 1" plenum with a bed of appx 160 lbs of sand (3 to 4" average depth) consisting of 120 lbs of CaribSea Special Grade Reef Sand, 25 lbs of CaribSea Crushed Coral/CaribSea Aruba Puka Shells (mixed 50/50 for texture in top 1" of bed) <Good looking stuff... gets mixed in...> and 24 lbs CaribSea Aragalive live sand mix (2 x 12lbs bottles). <I'm with you> I also have added a 48" Hamilton ABS 4 x 96W Compact Fluorescents with (2) 10,000K White and (2) 7200 Blue Actinics approximately 4" off the water surface. If I understand the rule of thumb of PCs vs. HO/VHO fluorescents, I am somewhere around 750 - 1100W effective (2x - 3x equivalent to HO/VHO's). I can say that they are bright. I have each bank on individual timers with the 03's on for 14 hrs and the 10K's on for 12 hrs. <Hmm, mm> Question #1) What types of corals/inverts can NOT be kept with this amount of light? <Easier, much easier to pick through a list here... there are many of what the hobby calls corals (some are/not) that don't need this amount of illumination, and a few genera/species commonly available that do much better in dark/er settings... Please see the soft (Alcyonacea) and true (Scleractinia) coverage on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com) and ask specifics about a given group on our chatforum: http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/> I am only planning to put a couple of clownfish in right now -love those little devils with anemones. I am set to pick up some LR this weekend from another tank in use (3 hour drive south). The rock is 80 lbs of Fiji and 40 lb of Vanisi LR for really GREAT price. I have spoken for this 120 lbs. There is also an additional 40 lb of Manono live rock in this tank. I haven't heard of this kind before. Is it a good type? <Yes> Question #2 - Should I get the whole bunch or is 120 lbs enough for my 100 G tank? <The whole bunch... for looks and function> I plan on putting the rock in a large ice chest and filling it with water from the current residing tank (other gent is shutting down to move) in order to move it. Question #3 - Is this a viable way to move it or does it need the water for a 3-4 hour drive? <No water necessary... it was boxed and shipped from the source w/o water for days> Question #4 - Do I need to do anything special once I get this rock (which is cured and currently in use). Do I just put in the new tank and let it cycle there and do you think there will be much die off moving to a different tank? <Some will die, but likely no problem... see the "curing" FAQs on WWM> Question #5 - How much lighting time should I use for cycling this rock to new home? Do I need to run the skimmer (right now it is a Sea Clone HOT) during cycle time? <A regular light cycle, and yes to this... and hopefully a better skimmer soon> I really enjoy reading the FAQ/emails that you post. They are most informative and helpful. Keep up the GREAT work. Gene Brewer
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