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hW Marine Products 11/7/06 Hi Crew, <Hello Andrew> I cannot seem to locate a retailer for hW marine products. Foster/Smith carries their salt but that is all. Can you help me out here? <Sure can. Here is a link for their authorized dealers. http://www.hawaiianmarine.com/dealers.htm> Thanks, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Andrew. Re: Custom marine system in India - 11/02/06 Dear Bob: <Sankara> I had asked the following question and it was replied to as follows. Thank you for your answers. <Welcome> After that, the idea is slowly simmering and progressing. I have made contact with people in India and what I understood is that the hobby is very nascent in India so that we have to get many equipment by import. <This will change... and soon> That's OK. But we have to know what are the sizes of equipment needed and what can be fabricated in India (we have the expertise for that) My "illiterate" helper made an excellent protein skimmer for my 200 Gallon tank for less than $20. Its working wonderfully. All he did was to see a similar equipment in action. So once I know what are needed the slow process of acquiring material can start. Regarding the site, it will be in the new house I am planning to build so that everything is factored in properly and will not be an "extension" ad-hoc job. The land is being identified. People are at work on that. <Good> I mainly need the answer to the question what is best, glass or acrylic? <Mmm... of the two for commercial application, almost always acrylic... it does scratch more easily, but is much tougher, resistant to breaking...> then what thickness. Considering the size I think acrylic will be safer than glass so that there is no danger. What is your take please? <Quarter inch material is useful for up to 18 inches in water height... still a good choice for much shallower> This will be a three year project where the tank will be put in along with the house and then slowly the equipment will be added so that in 3 years when I am ready to go back there will be a running system in place. Regarding opening to Sun, I have experimented and I have found that the Suncool film for cars really keep out heat without unduly affecting the spectrum. Still a bit of cooling will be needed as we are right in the tropics. (Cochin - Kerala - 9 degrees North.) <I understand> There are no consultancies available in India in designing. The tank will be on the ground floor so there are no foundation problems. The concrete sides will be epoxy coated so that cement will not interact with the salt water. Can we continue the discussion please? <Certainly. Bob Fenner in Siem Reap, Cambodia, but out to the States on the morrow> Just a few questions I seem to be getting the most conflicted advice on. New Setup Checkup 10/2/06 Hi. Your site is great, I've learned a lot already from it and hope to keep learning from you. <Good to hear.> I am saving money up to start a saltwater tank, and am definitely interested in doing things correctly the first time. <Good> When I started keeping freshwater tanks a few years ago I was steered in every wrong direction possible, a mistake I don't want to make this time, especially since most of the stores here seem to be in the same "money over customer" base one store even told me I could keep 2 Oscars in a 10 gallon tank forever!) <Well, I wouldn't go there for advice ;)> I guess I should start with my plans. I only have the space for a small tank, a 29 gallon. I am going to use aragonite sand and have a bed of about 2". <Less than 1 or more than 3 is best.> I am unsure about how much rock I am going to use, I am going to get a lot of porous 'dead' rock from my LFS and seed it with some beautiful aquacultured live rock that I have found. Probably about 5 lbs of the LR. For my equipment, I know I will use pc lighting, have a skimmer and have a fuge. Plus the obvious things like heaters. I plan on getting all of the non-living things first, setting up the tank then adding the liverock to cycle it. I figure the rock can cycle it and while that is happening I can watch to make sure I don't have any bad hitchhikers in the tank. After it has been set up for a couple of months (after cycle basically) then I will add the livestock to it. <I would probably let it run a little longer to let the LR really establish itself and seed the base rock.> I don't want a lot of fish, just a few. I know I will have an ocellaris clown, and a clown goby still haven't' decided on a colour yet, most likely a citrinus though) I was planning on a rainfordi goby, but have read at your site that they need a more established tank. <Yep> Though would a 29 gallon tank be enough for one after it has been set up for a while? <Probably not.> Or should I forget about that plan? <I would> I want about 10 snails, an even mix of astrea, cerith and Nassarius. <Good> I am also planning on getting a scarlet hermit crab or two, I love to watch hermits and have been told that those are the most reef safe, as far as crabs go. <Yep> I don't have any plans to keep shrimp, but if I did decide to I would get peppermint cleaners. <They are nice, enjoyed them when I had them it the past.> For the corals, I will have a random assortment of zoanthid and palythoas. A Ricordea and some xenia. Perhaps someday a Capnella OR devil's hand for some variety. Does this sound like too much livestock, or can you find any big incompatibility problems with my list? <Not really, just don't overload it with corals, just a few and leave them room to grow.> For my filtration, I know the skimmer and rock are the bulk of it, but what skimmer should I get? I was going to get a remora, but the LFS I am going through is hesitant to get any in because he has never used them himself. <I absolutely love mine.> He stocks the CoraLife super skimmers. <Check some of the message boards for opinions on this model.> I have heard that either works "better" than the other. Also I have heard, dumb question here, that xenias like their water a bit Underskimmed. <High water quality is important for these like all other corals.> Would I be overskimming for them with either skimmer, or would I be just fine? <Will be fine.> The fuge I am going to use will be an AquaClear filter made into one. It'll have some sand, perhaps a bit of rock, and some macro. Probably either sea lettuce or turtle grass. Is either one better than the other? <Should be fine, although not as fast growing as some other macroalgae.> It'll be lit by a small pc light. I'm hoping to grow out pods in it. <Will> The model of filter I was looking at has 500 gph flow rate. Should I go for the next size down model(300 gph), or should I keep this one in mind? <Bigger the better.> Also, with either size would I need to have additional powerheads for more flow, or should I be fine with that much? <Almost impossible to have too much flow, I would add a powerhead or two.> My LFS has said to add another one or two powerheads to that mix, yet that seems like the flow would be nonstop everywhere in the tank. <Looking for 10X tank volume turnover.> Also, how much light should I get? <Depends.> The LFS has said that the single light pc strip(65 watts) should be more than enough for the tank. <Maybe> Should I stick with that plan or should I get the double strip light? I am never going to have any form of anemone, clam or SPS in the tank. And really most LPSs don't interest me. Huge IF I ever tried one in that tank it would be a candy cane. I've read that they don't need massive amounts of lighting, and I could keep it near the top of the tank for more than it would be getting otherwise. So yeah, 65, or 130 watts? <Really depends on what specific corals you get.> What salt should I use? Hm, don't really know how to elaborate more on that one, just which brands seem to be better, in your experience? Or is there even a really big difference? <Most are pretty comparable. Most popular is Instant Ocean, most commonly available, reasonably priced. Shedd Aquariums brand of choice if that helps.> I think that is about all my head has rattling around in it at the moment, so thank you in advance for your time. <Sure> Dana <Chris> New Marine Setup...Confirmation of Parameters, gear check 10/2/06 I have been reading you web site for months. It's been a great resource. So, I would like to run my new setup by you guys (or gals as the case may be) and just make sure that I seem alright before I transfer my fish from my old 55 gallon. The new tank will be a FOWLR set up and I doubt that corals will ever be placed in the system (we will see). So here it goes. First, the tank is a 125 gallon glass tank (purchased second hand). We started the cycling about 5 weeks ago. It has about 1-1.25 of mixed 50/50 Gray Coast (new) and aragonite (from current 55 gallon). Then there is ~60 lbs. of dead live rock with ~30 lbs. of live rock on top of that. There will also be about 15 lbs. of live rock placed in the tank coming from the old 55 gallon. As for equipment I have two ~275 GPM power heads now and a third one to go in when I break down the old tank. There is a Magnum 350 (for water polishing purposes), a twin panel back-filter (from Wal-Mart) and a Fluval 204 (for carbon and polishing purposes) that will come from the old tank. I have been juggling my Remora Pro w/ pre-filter between the two tanks during the cycling process and of course it will be placed in the new tank. The heaters are a new Jager 250 watt unit and a 200 watt unit from the old tank. The lighting is still a bit up in the air. At this time our budget is a bit limited. I have a line on a used 72 power compact fixture with four 96watt bulbs and moon lights for under $200. Supposedly it is less than a year old. It sounds a little too good to be true but we will see. If this one does work out then we will be set as far as I can see (understanding that the bulbs will need to be replaced soon of course). If this does not work then I will go one of two routes. The first system I was contemplating was two 36 standard fluorescent dual fixtures (for a total of four Aqua-Ray 9350K bulbs). The other option is two single 96watt bulb 36 power compact fixtures. I also have the original 72 standard light fixture with two new 24 standard florescent bulbs that I was going to use with either setup for a bit of the deep sea look. Any thoughts? My initial budget for lighting is the $200 range. As of today my water tests with the following: Ph-8.1; Ammonia-0; Nitrite-0; Nitrate-trace, but less than 10ppm; SG~1.022; Temp~78deg F. It has held steady at this for about a week now. My LFS seems to think all is good to go water wise. Our current 55 gallon tank has 7 Monos (3-Sebae; 4-Argentus). These guys will be added last, if possible. Our current wish list for the new tank is as follows: 1- Lawnmower Blenny; 1-Coral Beauty; 1-Koran Angel; 1-Naso (Lipstick) Tang, <Will need more room> and maybe 2-3 Mexican Rainbow Wrasse. Any huge issues with this mix? <The Koran will get too large for here as well> Also, the more I read the more I think that I should be removing the bio-rings from the Fluval. Yes...no... maybe? <I'd leave them> How about eliminating the back-filter. Again, yes...no.. maybe? Any other equipment issues that you can see? <There are better modes of filtration, but these will/can work> So there it is. Any general recommendations would be great. My wife is very eager to get this tank stocked. As I see it, we have plenty of time. I certainly do not want to rush things. I did that on my first tank and do not want to repeat that situation again. Thank you in advance for you information. Eric <Mmm... I'd keep reading re your possibilities: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm as you seem not totally sure... though, as stated, what you currently have can work. Bob Fenner>
Marine Set-Up... Shift Key Not Working - 07/30/06 I have a 90 gal 48x18x24, crushed coral, Emperor 400, Magnum 350, the regular 40 watt lights that came with the tank and 15lbs of live rock, 1 damsel and 4 other starting fish. I started my tank 1 week ago using filter media and some substrate from a currently running f/o tank I was thinking of a Remora skimmer. <A good choice.> What else do I need for a successful setup, your answers appreciated. <With the Remora, sounds OK, but do read here, and related links on the subject for additional info. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm. Do use capitalization where necessary in future queries. James (Salty Dog)> Vince First Marine Tank, 36G 7/24/06 I am just starting a saltwater tank that is a 36 gallon used bowfront tank with a stand. <Good luck and welcome to the salty side of the hobby.> This will be my first saltwater so I really want this to work. Here is what I have so far and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Coralife light: 2 bulbs, both 65 watts, one blue one white, also attached are night lights to simulate moon light. Some model of an emperor filter - it came with the tank so I don't know the model: it has one bio wheel and holds Rite Size Cartridge E if that helps with identifying it. <Needs to be cleaned often, probably weekly.> Hot Magnum 250 (I think) - also came with the tank: the man at the shop suggested to use the micron cartridge first and switch to the main filter type that can hold carbon and such later on, I don't know when he will tell me to switch and why I should use this one first but that's just what he told me to do. <I would run the carbon, can be quite helpful. Also this filter needs to be cleaned weekly as well.> 2 Maxi Jet 900 powerheads: one facing the front of the tank in the top left hand corner, one forcing water and debris along the back, bottom of the tank pushing it to the front of the tank, (located in the back, bottom, left hand corner of the tank). <A couple more would probably be helpful, the more flow the better. Looking for at least 10X tank volume turn over.> I do not have a heater yet, there is nothing in the tank yet, soon to be live rock though!! <Get one before adding the live rock, stability is key.> I am so excited! <Tis quite the adventure.> The water stays at a constant 80 degrees F no matter where I put the light, put the legs on the light, leave the top closed or open. I cannot get it to go down unless I have no light, keep the cover off, and leave it alone for about 5 hours! Is 80 degrees OK for fish, live rock, and some hardy corals/invertebrates like zoanthids? <Quite acceptable.> Only 2 of the cooling fans in the hood work right now. (I am going to wait a while to add in the invertebrates/corals because I want the tank to work with just fish first). <Would run them all from the get go, easier on the equipment and can find problems before the sensitive livestock is added.> I am going to have the blue light turn on 30 minutes before the white ones turn on in the morning, and shut off 30 minutes after the white ones turn off at night. Does that seem alright? <Sure> Both lights will be on for 13 hours of the day. <A little long but ok.> The night lights will be on after the blue ones turn off at night. <Ok> My salt level will be pretty stable at 1.023 I will not include a protein skimmer yet because I will not be keeping any invertebrates/corals right away. <Very important for the fish as well. I consider it the most important piece of equipment for a tank and would not run a tank without a QUALITY skimmer, regardless of what I am keeping.> All I will be having in my tank for a while is live rock and fish. Can some species of zoanthids survive without a protein skimmer if I do 5 or 10 gallon water changes every month later on, and can the survive with the lighting that I have? ,Lighting yes, but weekly or bi-weekly water changes are best, 10-15% each time.> If so, what species of zoanthids would be a good choice? <Many, peruse WetWeb for specifics.> If not, what is a good hang on back protein skimmer that is not too expensive that I can purchase when I am ready to add a few hardy invertebrates? <For skimmers quality costs. Check out the excellent article by Steven Pro for more http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/protein_skimmer_impressions.htm .> If later on I keep some invertebrates/corals, will I need to supplement calcium? <Probably.> If so, is there a brand that sells a high quality calcium supplement? <Many, most name brands are fine.> Finally, could you list a few groups of fish that I could put in this tank that would mix well with each other, and list some invertebrates/corals that are hardy and easier to keep than most other invertebrates/corals that the fish will not eat or demolish? <Too many to list, looking for 3-5 small (>4 inches) fish, and few colonies of appropriate corals which can be found on WetWeb.> And the ones that you suggest, do they "need" a protein skimmer if I do monthly 5 or 10 gallon water changes? <Every tank needs a skimmer in my opinion, especially with such infrequent water changes. With no skimmer bi-weekly 5G changes would be best.> Just so I can get a picture of and know what my options are on what different types of community fish I can mix with each other based on size and quantity and what hardy invertebrates/corals I can keep with them. <Too many to list, detail on WetWeb.> Sorry for the length of this email! <No Problem.> You guys are really helpful for doing this! <Chris> Upgrading questions... too rude to follow
directions 7/22/06 I, currently, have a 55 gallon
"reef" tank - some corals, a few fish, live rock, live sand,
etc. <Okay...> I am upgrading, this weekend, to a 90 gallon
"reef-ready" tank. I have a homemade refugium, but need to
upgrade it, too. I was looking at doing a CPR Aquafuge Pro under my
tank, instead of a sump. Anyone use these? <All sorts of folks...
you can find our review of such on WWM> Any Pros/Cons on them? The
tank will have to run plugged up with no sump/fuge until I decide.
<Take a look/read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
See the third, fourth block of links down... on Refugiums?...> Also,
since I have never plumbed a drilled tank before, are there any good
books/articles to show how to do it correctly? I assume, also,
there'd be instructions with the tank (being delivered) and/or
refugium (once I order it). <Uhh... keep scrolling> What worries
should I have about power outages and flooding? Ron Daley <Learn
to/use the search tool, indices on WWM... we have a few tens of
thousands of visitors a day... If you had read through the guidelines
of writing us, you would not have. Bob Fenner> New Set Up/Shared Systems - 07/10/06 Hi there, <<Hello>> I currently have a reef aquarium but am about to venture on to bigger and better. <<Cool!>> I would like to setup a 150 gal. reef aquarium plumbed to a 240 gal. which sets 10 ft. up and 20 ft. away from the 150. <<Mmm, is a possibility if both will be the same "type" of system (e.g.- reef, FOWLR, FO)...but be aware these systems will share more than just water. Any problems/pests that manifest in one will surely make it to the other>> Since there is a distinct possibility that I will sell my home in 5-7 years, I would like to have the ability to run these independently as well, since I would take the 240 with me. <<I see>> To give a better picture, the 150 is going to be flush mounted in a wall with the back housed in my mechanics room in the basement, which has a water tank and sump drain; and the 240 will be in a room above and over from this. <<I trust you have done the necessary homework to ensure the upper floor will support this large tank?>> I know I have a lot of research and work to do to accomplish this <<Indeed>> but my initial question would be; if money were not an issue (not that I'm rich), how would you quintessentially set up an individual tank, or do you have a link which already provides this information? <<Start reading here ( http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm) and among the links at the top of the page. I'm happy to help you out, but rather than me speaking blindly here, research the linked info and work out some details/ideas of what you want to do. Then come back to me to discuss if you wish>> Expounding on this, I would like to know how many and how big of drain holes to the sump you would have? <<A minimum of two 1.5" drains...more/bigger when possible>> Where would you locate these overflow(s)? <<When possible, my preference is to install bulkheads in the back or side panels of the tank, rather than the bottom>> Where should the return(s) be located? <<Generally, on opposing ends>> How can a wave maker or alternating power heads be incorporated to introduce a pleasing current? <<Many options...what do you "want" to do?>> How should the sump be chambered, etc.? <<Not always a necessity, but it is often a good idea to provide a dedicated "chamber" for the skimmer to allow easier control of water height re>> My other question would be what to look out for when joining two systems, having multiple pumps and such. <<I think your best option here, especially considering the physical separation of the two displays, would be to plumb these systems to only "share" a large sump/skimmer...and other wise providing dedicated pumps, et al>> Also, do you know of any design software for plumbing and such, I would like to make schematics. <<Not specifically, though a CAD program would likely do what you want>> Thank you for your time. Regards, Shawn <<Do read through the set-up/plumbing material on the site and come back to me with more specific information on what you wish to achieve and I will be happy to assist further>> P.S. The above question(s) is very loaded and I do not feel right about getting so much knowledge for free. <<Mmm, haven't imparted much thus far <grin> >> I am more than willing and would be very much like to pay (through Paypal or something), some consulting fees as I go on with this project. <<Thank you very much Shawn. Payment is not necessary, we are all happy to help where we can. But if you are so inclined (we do incur expenses for maintaining the site), we have a button on the homepage just above the Google bar for taking donations>> BTW, I wrote this purposefully below the main body in case you did not want to post it. <<No worries mate...we post everything. Eric Russell>> - Salt water aquarium set up 6/27/06 - Hi Bob, <JasonC here today.> I am looking for someone to set up a salt water aquarium in my home. I live in Macon Ga, Do you know of anyone in this area? <I personally do not, however you should make this inquiry at any/all of the fish stores in your area. Likewise, keep your eyes on our daily FAQs as someone may post an answer after they see this question.> Thanks, Cathy <Cheers, J -- > Connecting Tanks 6/26/06 I love the website and the books! <Thank you for the compliment - we do try!> I own a 55 gallon with 80 lbs of live sand and 55 lbs of live rock. All parameters are looking good. No trace of ammonia. <Nitrite, Nitrate? What I like to refer to as the ANN levels (Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate).> The tank includes a wet/dry trickle filter with bio balls and the Coralife Super Skimmer. 1 - Coral Beauty Angelfish 3 - Green Chromis 2 - Ocellaris Clownfish 3 - Peppermint Shrimp 36 - Blue Hermit Crabs 4 - Turbo Snails 1 - Hairy Mushroom I've never seen this done at home, but I was wondering if I could connect the 55 reef tank to a second 55 gallon. <Of course you can!> I have just bought the second tank and am not sure what I want to do with it. <I suggest you decide this before considering whether to connect - some combinations may be less beneficial than others. For example, a predatory fish tank sharing water with a delicate reef environment may diminish water quality in the reef aquarium.> I was thinking of splitting up my fish or keeping one as a 55 gallon reef and the second 55 to become something like a refugium or fish only tank. <Using one as a refugium or similar system - for example a frag tank, would be a fantastic idea. The main benefit of this would be to double the volume of water in your system and hence increase chemical stability. Though you will need to make sure that any equipment that you are using is sufficient to meet the demands of this increased volume.> Is this a terrible idea? <Not at all - in fact you will probably find it to be very beneficial depending on how you employ the second tank.> I need some advice on the pro's and con's. I'm also not sure how to connect them. The LFS suggested an overflow box. <I agree. You will need two connections, as per a standard sump/refugium layout, of which one gravity feed the water from tank 1 to tank 2, whilst the second connection will mechanically pump water back to tank 1, ensuring water circulation between the two systems. Best of luck!> Thanks for the help! You guys are the greatest. See you at Houston. - Anne Set-Up...Plumbing, Pump Size 6/22/06 Hi every one (newbie to reefing from UK here) I've been searching through WWM but cant seem to find an answer... I'm setting up a 5ftx24x18 reef tank and I would like to know what size pipes, how many pipes, sump tank, and return pump I would need for it to be a winner. I would be great full <grateful> of any help/advice you can give. <In your 110 gallon tank, if no powerheads are to be used, I would recommend a pump of at least 1200 gph, and minimum drain pipe of 1.5 inches in diameter, a 15 gallon sump, and four 1/2" return lines to the tank at equal spacing. You can make a manifold out of PVC tees that can screw into the pump outlet. Read here and related articles/FAQ's above title line also. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/plumbingmarart.htm In future queries, please do a spelling and grammar check. It saves us much time if we do not have to do this for you. Thank you, James (Salty Dog)> Thank you for your time <You're welcome.> Re: First Salt Water tank... for sure 6/17/06 see additional below ( in color and not in caps) and thanks! <<My further responses in double carats. RMF>> Hi, I am in hopes of guidance because after someone recommended your website I was amazed of all the answers... too many. <Not possible... they are indexed, there is a competent search tool...> This was a complement but still so much information but applies to a wide variety so it becomes general <<I see... thank you. Do you have ideas on how this information might be better presented, organized?>> My problem is that I decided I finally wanted to start my first salt water tank and the Local Pet Shop recommended for ease to start with a Reef and add fish as I go along. SO that is what I am trying to do. I truly love the look and am sure I will love the hobby. Part of the problem is that I went into this not realizing that this would be such a money pit. I shopped and shopped and now have the following set up. * 145 gal Acrylic Cube type Aquarium 36" wide x 30" deep by 30" high. <Very tall... hard to light, get your arms (hope they're long) into...> :) o The tank is plumbed underneath the back overflow inside the tank <?> In other words I do not have to hang anything on the tank. The fittings are below the tank under the overflow <<Ahh, I see>> * 30 gal sump (no filtration or internal walls, simply a tank * ASM G2 Skimmer * 150lbs of Live Rock * 100lbs of Live Sand * Gen-X PCX 40 Pump * Tunze Stream 6060 Pump * 250w Pendant Metal Halide * SCWD current switching device * Kent Marine Aquadoser 5: Float switch and auto-refill * Rio 2500 powerhead pump * UV Sterilizer (not sure of make or model) Any comments about the about equipment and how it will serve me? <<Good to medium choices in product lines... but relatively complete, should work... with some careful set-up, maintenance... I'd make a daily, weekly, monthly, more periodic checklist here>> The main problem is that I got 100 different directions. Since I am a total rookie, I wanted first to master the easy way to do the reef and then play with it as the previous owner did. <No shortcuts here... you need to learn what you're doing...> You make it seem that you have to know what you are doing in order to do it, there is no help along the way? <<Mmm, unfortunately not many... After a few decades of effort in trying to "make known what needs to be made known" in person and in writing, it is my steadfast opinion that the "field" of marine aquarium keeping is/has become so complex that a semi-thorough grounding in some aspects of science (biology, chemistry, physics...), engineering... even psychology (!) are called for, ahead of actual purchase, install of these systems. Too easy otherwise to experience (deadly) failure... and/but on the plus-side, the more-you-know commensurately the greater will be your enjoyment, fulfillment with the experience>> I had a guy come out to set up my tank for me (Recommended by the Local Pet Shop) The guys told me that I had no filtration going on so he recommended that I put bio-balls in my over-flow. He hooked up my UV sterilizer and I put in about 200 bio-balls in the over-flow (didn't make a dent). The guys that sold me the tae told me that I shouldn't use a UV Sterilizer or the bio-balls. The guy that sold me the Skimmer told me to use the UV sterilizer. This was my biggest problem as the previous owner sez not to use the sterilizer and the bio-balls and the guy that set up my tank sez I need them. I am hoping for some guidance here. <<Is posted... we have a few tens of thousands of visitors/users daily... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/UVFAQs.htm and http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bioballfaqs.htm and the linked files above in these series till you understand "enough" to make up your own mind>> I am totally doomed! <I wouldn't go that/this far> I picked up a book (Natural Reef Aquariums, Tullock) <Know John well> and it just provides a lot of suggestions but not for my particular case. Can you help? If I don't do the bio-balls what filtration am I using? <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm See the blue file names? These are links... read the ones on filtration> thanks for the help with that one If I don't use the UV Sterilizer am I more likely to get sick fish? <Whether or not... see WWM re UVs...> I thought the UV sterilizer was an easy answer to a possible complicated problem. <Is a useful tool, not a cure-all by any means> So are you saying to create a reef with coral, a UV sterilizer is okay? <<Is "okay", but not necessary... is a useful adjunct, tool to otherwise good/complete filtration and maintenance practices>> Needing help. BTW, how do I become a member? <We don't do/have memberships... by participating, reading, writing... you are> Michael Grose <Take all this a bit at a time Michael... not hard, but involved... can, will become engrossing, but needs your giving/taking. Bob Fenner> <<Are you sure you want to "do" marine aquarium keeping Mike? Many busy folks have others set-up, take care of these systems as more "kinetic art" than involved aquarists... I strongly encourage you to consider this... Perhaps you'd do better/best by reading over another "complete" work on the subject. I am the author of The Conscientious Marine Aquarist (in the same series as John Tullock), but there are many other worthy written works on the subject. Bob Fenner>> - Marine Aquariums... pondering possibilities 6/15/06 - WWM Crew - New to WWM and loving your site (wish I would have found it sooner)! I've scoured for many hours trying to find info related to my questions but I have been unable to nail down the specifics of what I'm in need of answering, so here goes..... Quick history: Live in Michigan. Currently have a 55 gallon marine tank (8 yrs old) with 5 fish (clown, pink spotted goby, cardinal, royal Gramma, Foxface) and live rock. Closest LFS is 35 minutes away. I've saved $3000 to put towards my next marine adventure. I'm at a point where I've saved enough money to expand on what I have and I'm toying with two different possibilities for the next step. Possibility #1 - spend the entire amount on one awesome large tank. <Believe it or not, $3000 won't get you very far in the "awesome" department in marine tanks. That budget could get a pretty decent 75-90 gallon tank started (as in up and running), but not quite all the way to the finish line (fully stocked with nothing left to purchase).> Possibility #2 - spend the money on many smaller tanks to keep a rather large assortment of fish and with the help of my son (who is in the process of converting his own freshwater tank to marine) start our own mini-store in our finished basement. For me this would be a benefit... I could continue to observe many varieties of fish and also possibly make enough money to break even. <While this would be fun from a hobbyist angle, it will likely never be a profitable enterprise and will most likely barely pay the electric bill. Not including the fact that unless you pick lots of small fish, then lots of small tanks is less than ideal for anything of size for anything beyond temporary holding.> I'm leaning towards #2 and here's some questions/comments- What size tank would you recommend if I was to have approximately 10 tanks? <55-60? Depends more on how much space you have and the fish you want to keep. Larger is always better.> (I've looked into the MaRS Retailer System vs. buying 10-20 gallon tanks and outfitting them each with a bio-wheel, heater, hood. The tanks come out cheaper but would that be the best way to go? <For retail display systems, this is a better way to go, but the design of these systems is based on a wholesale/retail holding system and not long term care.> Will just a bio-wheel be adequate to maintain the tanks? (on my current tank I have a canister filter, protein skimmer, powerhead) <A protein skimmer always helps.> Recommendations/contacts for livestock, food, aquariums in the Michigan area? <If you're in the Ann Arbor area, look up Tropicorium. If you're in the East Lansing/Lansing area, look up Preuss' Pets.> Is this insane? <Not insane, but perhaps not completely thought out. Do consider carefully what it will cost you on a reoccurring basis to maintain a large holding system - will this really make you money or just drain it out of your wallet? If you want to make money, then you need to approach this like a business which means you need a business plan, marketing research, etc. - is there anyone around to make money with? This is just a start, but going through these motions should influence your decision.> Thank You for your time Brian <Cheers, J -- > New 90 Gallon Setup
6/6/06 Dear WWM Crew, <Scott>
I am getting ready to expand an existing 40 gal (no sump)
LR setup and have been pouring over your website for weeks now for your
expert guidance (thank you!). Current non-fish "residents"
are a diadema, two cleaner shrimp, peppermint shrimp, some star polyps
and zoanthids (LR stowaways) and a turbo snail. All doing very well.
Fish include a purple firefish, flametail blenny and a magnificent
golden angel that is currently in separate quarantine. <Centropyge
aurantius? This angel species needs many times this many gallons of
space> The new tank will be primarily for expanded fish
display (sixline wrasse, sharknose goby, and possibly a purple tang
and/or juvenile emperor angelfish), <... not enough room for either
of these last two> mixed with some other compatible invertebrates.
My thought is to move the entire system over to the 90 gal, than add
fresh (quarantined) LR in ~10-15 lb batches over time. <Still not
enough room...> I believe I have a
"plan" for the new arrangement but wonder if you would kindly
comment and/or offer suggestions... <See WWM re Systems,
Compatibility subfaqs files for the organisms
listed> Tank will be 90 gallon Oceanic
with two overflow boxes (say 500 to 1000 gph each). I'll use a few
powerheads for internal flow but mostly rely on the return flow for
circulation. Sump will be Ecosystem 3612
- hopefully to (1) provide copepods and other food, (2) serve as an
algae filter and (3) provide touted benefits of "miracle mud"
such as enhanced color. Question (if you please) - since Caulerpa is
illegal in California, can you kindly suggest alternative macroalgae
which fits the above objectives? <Is posted on WWM... see here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/refugalgfaqs.htm
and the file linked above in series> (I have Mr. Fenner's Reef
Invertebrates book but I don't have experience growing macroalgae).
<Easy, fun to do> The Ecosystem
literature states a protein skimmer is not necessary but I will use one
based on other feedback (including your site!). I am thinking about a
slightly smaller skimmer (Euro Reef CS 80) due to the presence of the
Ecosystem. Would you do this or do you think the CS 100 would be worth
using? <Yes> Summers get pretty hot in So. Cal so I
am planning to use a chiller (better than running home AC
continuously). Can/would you comment on experience with Aqualogic vs.
Coralife vs. JBJ Artica? <Mmm, I would look to querying on BB's
re a wider input of actual experience here> Also, would you
recommend piping the chiller "in-line' on the return pump or
use a separate loop off the back end of the sump? <If you have
enough flow, pressure, I would tie this chiller in with the existing
plumbing> I am debating the pros/cons
of a submersible pump versus an external pump (Iwaki). Right now I am
leaning to the external pump if there is enough space. Are there
benefits to one over the other or does it come down to personal
preference? <Externals are superior in most circumstances... more
efficient, less waste-heat... less potential for
trouble> For the lighting I am leaning
to power compacts, say 3-4 rows so the lighting can be
switched on/off to mimic daily cycle of light intensity. Can you
suggest what level of intensity would best benefit the above described
system? <Again, posted...> Again,
any thoughts/critique would be greatly appreciated. Scott
in (hot) So Cal <Bob Fenner, also here. When, where in doubt
Scott... keep reading> Set-up Q's, new hobbyist 4/12/06 Hi there Bob and crew, <Rick> I am new to saltwater ( few weeks ago, gave up my freshwater discus) and very excited already. I got a 90 gallon tank with overflow box built-in, 36" sump with refugium, AquaC skimmer ev-120 with mag-drive500 , PhosBan reactor, quiet one 4000hh return pump, Artica 1/5 chiller, UV sterilizer, with these equipments ready to rock and roll. (planning to get the Korallin calcium reactor with co2 tank) Please let me know how to and how long to cycle my tank, when is it the appropriate time to add LR+LS, and when to add corals, I have tried to find it on the WWM search engine, but not much luck. can you please give me the link to these question. thank you very much. Rick <Are all posted on WWM... along with much more needed related material. My best advice is to use the indices, starting here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm Enjoy the process, and take good notes. Bob Fenner> Re: ** new hobbyist thanks Bob , I got your book couple days ago... currently only chapter 2, but, learning a lot already, thanks Rick <Ahh! Know you will enjoy, gain by the experience. Enjoy the process. Bob Fenner> Set up, Skimming, and UV 03-21-06 Hi <Hi!> Again Thanks for your WWW & you guys rock! So after years with a 55 gallon fish only tank & just bought & set up a 180. <Yay! Bigger is better.> The set ups is 2 days old. Seeded with some sand from old tank & older filter foam. I also bought the Aqua C 180. & 2 1/2 of Aragamite Select. Questions: So When should I install the Skimmer? <Most here agree that skimming while cycling is a good idea, so start now.> & did I buy the wrong substrate? ( .5 - 1.0 mm ) <It seems the mindset IS a little bit bigger, the smallest being somewhere between 1.5mm and 2mm.> as I like at least 2". I grabbed & installed what I thought was a bit larger in diameter. Is this or will this be a problem? <I don't think so, but you might have to watch with powerheads and whatnot moving it around too easily later on.> & When should I turn on the UV? Thanks! <Is this going to stay a Fish Only tank? I don't personally believe in using UV at all, however there are others that have used with success. You may want to read here for more info: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphysf.htm > Sincerely, Jonny <Good luck and enjoy! Jen S.> New Set Up Advice - 02/20/2006 I have been reading your site and The Conscientious Marine Aquarist for the past 2 months and found all the help you dispense immensely helpful. <Bob's glad to offer them and we're happy to help!> I am looking to set up a fish and invertebrate tank with a few hardy corals. The main setup I have is as follows 140gal tank with overflow box, megaflow 4 sump, Reef Devil ETSS Skimmer and in sump return pump. Since it's better to do it right at the beginning I thought I would get a few basic questions down before actually setting up the tank. <OK.> Should I use the sump as is with the bio balls or try and turn it into a refugium? <This is covered quite extensively on WWM and really depends on the path you decide to follow. I'd go with a refugium though.> If the answer is to convert it, can the sump be converted easily? <As nothing is running yet, yes.> How deep a sand bed should I have? I get conflicting answers from everything I've read. <Again covered extensively here. Generic answer; 3" or more, 1/2" or less.> How much LR should I use for such a set up? <All your preference here also. Most common to use 1-2 lbs. per gallon.> Thanks for all the help <Sure thing. - Josh> New Setup of a 125 - 02/20/06 Hi Crew, Amazing site and can't say enough good things about it! I am thinking about converting my 125 freshwater tank, and after reading as much as I could on your site and a few others, feel that I am ready. On to the questions! The tank doesn't have an overflow, and is currently set up with an Eheim 2028, and 2 Emperor 400's for filtration. For the marine tank, I am thinking about using 150-175lbs of live rock, 4 Aquaclear 802 power heads, a protein skimmer (not sure of the brand just yet), and the canister for mechanical/chemical filtration. I won't have a sump and was wondering if this filtration / water movement would be sufficient for this large of a tank. <Can be made to work... depending on what livestock...> I am fairly certain that I want to get a snowflake eel, and possibly a lion fish, and maybe 1 or 2 other tankmates that are suitable to be housed with a lionfish. (will research this further after the tank has been going for a month with the live rock) My main concern is that I have heard a few different opinions from the LFS in the area regarding needing a sump, but feel that the turnover from the powerheads (rated at 400 each - so that would be 1600) and the canister (300 gph) and the additional protein skimmer (not sure yet) would be at least turning the water over 16X an hour. <Sumps are useful, not necessary technology> Also I just wanted to make sure that the above equipment would be sufficient to run this take, and that nothing further down the road would be needed. Thank you in advance, and keep up the excellent site! <Thank you... Bob Fenner> Setup Questions For New Aquarium - 02/20/06 Dear WWM crew, (Good evening Eric) <<Good morning Andrew>> Once again, thank you for your reply. <<Quite welcome>> But, after doing more research I have some more questions for you. <<Ok>> Here goes... I have completed the fish part of the inhabitants list. It is as follows; Maroon Clown qty. 1 Yellow Tang qty. 1 Flame Angel qty. 1 Auriga Butterfly qty. 1 Blue Green Reef Chromis qty. 5 <<Ah, very nice...and pretty much "fills you up!">> But the plumbing is what I've really been working on. It's fairly simple and I feel it may be missing something so again (grin) you have free rein. <<Hee!>> But, first I'd like to clear up some of my own confusion. <<Always good to clean...er...clear up after yourself <grin>.>> In my earlier message you suggested having two 1.5 inch bulkheads and having one plumbed directly with a 1000 gph pump. Can a 1.5 inch bulkhead handle this much flow? <<Yes, when plumbed as a closed-loop.>> You had suggested two 1.5 inch bulkheads for 1000 gph (total) so I was confused. <<Ah, I see...I shall try to explain without being to verbose. With the closed-loop you are "pushing/pulling" the water through the pipe with the pump. This allows you to "maximize" the volume/capacity of the pipe. With an overflow system you are reliant upon the water "falling" through the pipe assisted only by gravity and the weight of the water (volume) behind it. Usually, a gravity overflow will never get close to handling (practically speaking) the volume of water the pipe diameter is rated for under "powered" conditions and attempting to do so usually results in excess noise and other problems from air entrainment. Thus, I recommend folks size their pipe/bulkheads for overflow system to handle "double" (or more!) the expected capacity.>> It doesn't make that much difference in my plan though. I can either get a smaller pump or a larger bulkhead. <<I see>> Otherwise, I was thinking this: 90 gallon aquarium drilled with two 1.5 inch bulkheads. As mentioned above, have one bulkhead plumbed directly to a 700-1000 gph pump (would greatly appreciate any pump suggestions) <<For submersible pumps...Eheim or Mag-Drive would be my choice, for external...Iwaki, Gorman-Rupp, or the afore mentioned Eheim.>> that then pumps the water back into the tank via return manifold. The second bulkhead would go down into a "Y". One side would empty into the sump and the second would be capped off for expansion. Second sump, refugium, etc.) The sump would be a simple 25 gallon tub to hold the skimmer, heaters, probes. (Could also hold more live rock or other items) <<Indeed...such as chemical media (Poly-Filter, carbon).>> This tub would then be plumbed into a 300-500 gph pump (Again, any suggestions on pump welcome) that pumps the water into the above mentioned return manifold. <<Mmm, I would keep this separate from the closed-loop manifold. Do have a read here re, the indices in blue will help too: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pbh2oret.htm >> This could also be a prime spot to put a fluidized bed filter as you suggested. That's my (proposed) plumbing set-up. <<Sounds pretty good, do look in to separating the two returns.>> Next, I have more filtration questions. I researched the following skimmers and had the following questions. Please suggest one based on it's compatibility with my system and value. AquaC EV 120 (Worth the price?) <<Yes>> AquaC Urchin Pro (Too small?) <<Marginal>> I have heard great things about these skimmers from several sites/vendors. Are they as efficient as they say they are? <<I believe them to be, yes.>> EuroReef CS080 (Too small?) <<Again, marginal.>> EuroReef CS100 (Is it worth it?) <<Yes, a better choice.>> I know the truth to the saying "You get what you pay for" (I've owned a SeaClone) but are these skimmers that much better than the others? <<I know what you mean...I have a ER CS12-3...I have never regretted the decision to buy this skimmer for a moment. EuroReef skimmers are my current fav.>> ASM G-series I read several reviews about these skimmers and found that the owners were generally pleased with them as long as you got the model recommended for twice the size of your system. <<Agreed...folks I know with these skimmers have expressed pleased results.>> My other filtration question is about the fluidized bed filter. The only model I've seen is the Pentair Aquatics FB 300, FB 600. Are these considered good? If not could you suggest a different model? <<These should perform fine. The 'QuickSand' filters sold by Aquatic Eco-Systems also look promising.>> Finally, would a refugium be of any value to this system? <<Oh yes! (nitrate reduction/export, breeding ground for/introduction of beneficial critters, etc.)>> If so, which type of organisms would I stock it with? <<Please do a search on our site re 'refugium' for more info/selections, but my preference is a reverse-daylight vegetable refugium with DSB.>> I know I've thrown many questions at you and greatly appreciate your answers. (My future fish thank you for your knowledgeable reply.) <<Is my pleasure to assist. Thank you for writing so well/expressing clearly.>> WWM in general is the greatest source of aquatic information on the net. I catch myself spending hours reading articles that have nothing to do with my predicament. <<Ah, but all will help/be of use, hopefully to prevent you from experiencing the same "predicament"...knowledge is power my friend, do keep reading.>> Thank you for your time, Andrew <<Regards, EricR>> Mudskippers ... tidepool system planning 2/14/06 Hi crew, Great site. Bit of a weird question, Just found my LFS selling mudskippers and have a vision of a tank set up but unsure how to get it and wondered if you could help. <Will try> I would like to have a tidal tank, I have a 4 foot Tank which I would like to divide in two halves, one Side with skipper/skippers in and the other with Fiddler crabs in, I would like to set it up so I could have high tide in one side and low tide in the other side then every 4 hours or so the tide changes So the high tide water flows into the low tide side Increasing the water level to high tide, Is this possible? <Yes> If so what would I need? <A mechanism... a pump, some means of "turning" the water hither and yon> How would I set it up? <A few possibilities... I'd go semi-high-tech., and look for float switches, a controller (these are commercially available) to pump the water slowly from one side, then over to the other... Look to Octopus, Neptune... as controller brands...> And could it be done on a budget? <If you're handy...> If I can't set my vision up I will not get them but I have longed to have skippers for a long time, please help Many thanks Stu <Do please keep good notes, take some pix and write up your experiences to share... I will help you sell to the print/pulp and e-zine markets. Bob Fenner> New SW System 2/6/06 Hello from Canada, <Howdy from Southern Cal.> I have been perusing your site for about a month now and have gotten a lot of excellent information. I am deciding on what would be the best start for me. I have nothing so far as a system yet but will be buying in the next couple of months. I am not overly impressed by my local fish store and am wondering about purchasing items over the net. <I see> Any recommendations on the best places to buy (please keep in mind I am in Canada and shipping may be high). I am looking for a 40 to 60 gal. tank to start and am sure I will upgrade in the future after getting some experience. I will buy the tank locally as there are some good choices but I am still having problems with the equipment. Do you feel it is worthwhile to purchase a "complete" system as it is sold in the store or putting something together myself? <Mmm... IF you know exactly what you are looking for... and this is otherwise not available locally for about the same net landed cost/s... It MAYBE worthwhile to purchase some, most distally> I need to have another look but I didn't see any live sand in the store. I have family on the Atlantic coast and could possibly get them to ship me some sand. Would this be a problem considering how different the environments are? <Mmm, no... the folks who ship LR, LS et al. live product are proficient at determining weather, packing for same> Any suggestions or information you are able to provide on any of these topics would be greatly appreciated! I will continue reviewing the site for other information and thank you for making such an amazing site available! Jon Goulden <Glad to see you applying yourself ahead of monetary investment... Keep good notes, collect opinions, facts and you'll do fine. Feel free to check in with us re specifics as your plan comes together. Bob Fenner> New 125 Gallon Setup - 02/05/06 Dear WWM Crew, <<Hello Andrew>> I am seeking some help with a setup. Please do not hold back, if you have differing views or ideas about something please share. <<Usually do <grin>.>> I am on the verge of purchasing a 125 gallon All-Glass aquarium. (Very excited about this!) <<I'll bet!>> It is intended to be a marine fish only system with live rock. <<Cool!>> I am getting it from a local dealer and have obtained the stats. The dimensions are 72x18x22 (inches). I have the option of buying it pre-drilled or having a glass company drill it. I have concerns about both options. <<Ok>> If I have it pre-drilled I am afraid it may not have large enough bulkheads. Pre-drilled it comes with two 1" holes for output into the sump and two 3/4" holes for returns. <<"Holes" or "bulkheads"?...either way too small.>> I was thinking about using both holes as output and then returning it over the back with a manifold system. <<A possibility>> (I want about a 1300 GPH turnover rate in the aquarium.) I can either do that or have the back panel drilled by a glass shop. My only concern with this is that they cannot guarantee that the aquarium will come out in one piece. Which option (if either) would you recommend? <<Can you not request the manufacturer to pre-drill for larger bulkheads (1 1/2" - 2")? Or maybe increase the number of throughputs? If not, I would be inclined to have the tank drilled (or drill it myself) after the fact.>> My other question is about the support. I can either purchase a stand or build one. I have built stands for aquariums before but never for one this large. Is it even safe to attempt? <<Sure it is (I built the stand for my 375g tank)...principles are the same, you just need to use materials beefy enough to hold the weight. A Google search would likely turn up some useful info.>> I really don't want to buy this size aquarium only to come home to a broken stand and shattered aquarium. <<This is understandable. If you doubt your abilities, a manufactured stand may be best.>> I have found Do-It-Yourself plans but am weary. <<???>> I would just like to know if it is a safe practice or not. <<Like anything else...is safe when done properly.>> My last question is about the filtration. I obviously want to incorporate a sump into the setup and wanted to know more about the right kind of filtration. Being a FOWLR setup I was thinking of building a sump that had an abundant amount of mechanical filtration. <<Mmm...only if you plan to service regularly (weekly).>> I was thinking several layers of mesh. Would this be the proper type of setup to include the bio-balls or something similar? <<I would forego both of these and employ one or two fluidized-bed filters for additional bio-filtration and a canister filter for chemical/carbon filtration. As for removing solids, try putting filter socks on the outlets from the tank (also cleaned/swapped out weekly...or more often as needed.>> The last item is the protein skimmer. What type/model would you recommend for this size setup? <<AquaC, Euro-Reef, ASM...follow the manufacturer's recommendation on sizing.>> Thank you for your time, Andrew <<Regards, EricR>> P.S. I have read Mr. Fenner's book (The Conscientious Marine Aquarist ) and found his section on the capture of wild fishes (both legal and illegal) very interesting. You don't see a lot about it and I learned much from the section. Please pass on my compliments to Mr. Fenner, I found the book to be quite good and more importantly, informing. <<I very much agree...EricR>> <Thank you for your comments. RMF>
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