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More Profits For LFS Through Lack Of Research - 01/23/2006 Hello Prestigious WWM Crew, <Hmm...Hopefully the opprobrious Josh will do ;)> I have learned quite a bit from your site and have done hours of productive reading here thanks by the way!) but need to once again draw upon your wisdom-in other words, help! *g* <Or, perhaps those "hours" have been spent in the wrong places. The pictures sure are pretty though:)> I have a 72 gallon bowfront saltwater setup. It has been established for about three months now after having successfully cycled. I have a Fish only tank with aragonite/crushed coral/live sand substrate mix. A refugium. Plenty of water flow. No LR. My LFS suggested using damsels to cycle the tank (which I did, although I probably would have preferred using LR instead) and two of the domino damsels survived the cycling and are now thriving in the tank. <Wait a second...I thought you said "hours" reading. The LFS is still running your ball game?> They have grown to about three inches long. My plan was to return them to the LFS when I was ready to add the permanent inhabitants. Other residents are two Turbo snails, two red-legged hermit crabs, and two Bumblebee snails. <Bumblebees like a fine, DSB in which to burrow from time to time.> The snails are very active on the glass but were not taking care of the dusting of light brown algae I was getting on the substrate. <Sounds like diatoms. The Bumblebees would help this, but they probably don't like the substrate.> The water chemistry is perfect and I have now decreased the number of hours per day the lights are on to help reduce the brown algae growth as well. <Are you sure you meant "hours"? No params. for us? Reducing your light cycle?> I mentioned this to the LFS a few days ago when I went in to get some R/O water and they said I should get some sand sifting gobies to help take care of this algae problem. They sold me two three inch long "dragon" gobies. <Cha-ching$$! Are you sure these aren't Dragonets? How's that song go..."And another one bites the dust!"> They are very entertaining but the damsels seem to chase them a lot. <Too aggressive.> The LFS said they could co-exist. <Cha-...Oh forget it.> I want to establish a colorful, peaceful community tank. <Not off to a good start with the Damsels.> My questions are: What kinds of fish do you recommend in this setup? Should the damsels go back to the LFS for the sake of the gobies? They are aggressive eaters and I am afraid the gobies will starve. Did the LFS give me the right advice? <Here's the question of the hour! No.> They also suggested that flame angels could be compatible in this tank, but I am worried about any fish with these damsels. <Was that "Angels" as in plural!?> Last question, how else can I get rid of the brown algae? I scrape, vacuum, do water changes regularly, now use R/O water for changing and top offs, and reduce hours on the compact fluorescent light. What else can I do? <Re-visit our FAQ's re all of these. Covered many times over. You could keep the Damsels for now for something to look at (a motivator). I would return the other fish for their best interest here. Study up before returning to this store!> Thanks for your time and your patience! I appreciate it! MW <Gladly. Now just apply your time/patience. Avoid more poor advice. - Josh> Greetings From The Maldives...Bare-Bones Reefing - 01/18/06 Hi crew, <<Hi!>> I admire you all a lot, since you have been the driving force to try and try, without your valuable information, I would have already given up now. <<We're glad you've found it/us useful.>> By the way, I'm from the Maldives, where corals and fishes are plenty which I have to dive and take, <<Lucky you>> and the equipments are scarce. <<Maybe not so bad as you think.>> I have been trying in this hobby for sometime, <<Me too! <grin>.>> but the lack of equipment and gear to have a successful reef system has let me down. <<?>> Well so I have a few questions I need to find some answers, which I'm confident I will get from you guys. <<Uh oh...pressure...>> First of all, I use seawater which is the only resource, so here is my first question, I've heard that seawater gets toxic very quickly after taking, so how will I succeed using seawater? And for my water changes, can I store seawater, or take seawater and change as quickly as possible without storing. <<I suspect what you're referring to is the massive die-off of life within the water that occurs soon after it is collected. Try treating the water after it has been collected with a small amount of bleach...this will kill the biota (which by the way, includes any possible parasites, etc.) and allow it to fall to the bottom of the container. Decant/drain the clear water from the container, treat with chlorine remover, and filter with carbon. This water can be stored in a covered (dark) container with an air stone for a week or so (maybe longer) for convenience. If possible, test the water and buffer as needed.>> The second question is, what's the best water I can substitute for reverse osmosis when it comes to top-up. It's impossible to get a reverse osmosis unit here, and someone said distilled water is the next best choice, and it's even very expensive, coz my tank evaporates like 3 litres a day, I've been using tap water but I just can't tolerate with the algae bloom. So can I use rainwater instead? <<Mmm...maybe...will depend much I believe on how polluted the air is from industry, automobile exhausts, etc...to be carried/pulled back down. Is worth a try I think...do prefilter with carbon and buffer before use.>> And since I don't have a chiller, can I manage with fans? My tank temp is 29 in mid day without the AC on, but my room is most of the time air conditioned, and it goes as low as 26-27 average, so will this fluctuation be dangerous? And can I keep zoanthids, leather corals and some soft corals in this high temp? <<While at the high end in my opinion, you're temp is within tolerable limits. Fans will help to bring down/provide some room for error so yes, employ some fans for evaporative cooling and to help stabilize temperature swings.>> In my experience its not that much effecting? Why is that, maybe it's from tropic? <<Yes>> So I hope you will help me solve these questions, and give me solutions with the resources available to mein mind. Coz I don't wanna just take those corals, if I'm not going to keep them healthy, though its plenty in my backyard. Thank you Ximan <<Thank you for your interest/concern. Regards, EricR>> New to the
Marine Hobby and Being Polite 1/17/06 Dear WWM Crew,
<Hi Cindy!> First, thank you for all the great
information. I am researching, reading, learning as fast as
possible. <Awesome.> Since I needed something to do
with my "spare" time after caring for 6 kids, <You have
spare time with six kids'¦.I go crazy when my little bro comes
to visit.> I agreed to take in an orphaned 29 gallon reef aquarium.
I previously had a 55 gallon FW aquarium and had an inkling of what
would be required in maintenance and cost. <Okay.>
Thank goodness, I found your site! I have been burning the
midnight oil researching, reading, and learning.
<I'm glad you found us too.> I am trying to be a
conscientious aquarist and upgrade this tank as finances
permit. Here is the current set-up: 29 gallon standard
aquarium, established for 1 year 20 lbs live rock, crushed coral
substrate, 1-2 inches in depth <How coarse is the crush coral? If
you go the crushed (coarse) coral route rather than sand, you need to
have 1' or less and siphon/vacuum it weekly. A 2' Crushed Coral
bed will trap detritus and give you nutrient problems.> Emperor 280
bio wheel filter, <Good for water movement and running of carbon
when necessary but not an ideal piece of equipment to use as the sole
filtration on a marine aquarium. You have live rock, which is great for
nitrifying bacteria but I would also add a protein skimmer to the mix,
such as the Aqua-C Remora. Until you can get a skimmer perform 25%
water changes weekly.> Orbit PC light fixture-2 65 watt,
daylight/actinic and lunar lights, this is a recent upgrade from 20
watt standard fixture that was on the tank. <Sounds good.> I am
slowly acclimating everyone to the new lighting using layers of dense
window screen.) <Good method.> This tank came with green and
brown algae growing on the rocks, substrate, glass, etc. I
am in the process (I hope) of reducing it with addition of Lawnmower
Blenny, snails, and crabs and improved lighting. <Algae is also
fuelled by nitrates, phosphates and nutrients in general. The protein
skimmer will help with this as will a good water change regime.> 1
perc clown- 2 1/2" 1 royal Gramma 2" <The above two are
good choices.> 1 lawnmower blenny 3" <This choice may be
fine now but, have seen this specimen at 6' in length. Your current
set-up is to small for an adult. I would consider trading him in for a
smaller species of blenny such as a bi-color.> 2 tiny cardinal
gobies 2 turbo snails <Get quite large and clumsy.> 10 margarita
snails <A little much.> 12 dwarf crabs <Ditto.> 6
mushrooms, which are green and purple 1 colony of polyps <Sounds
Okay.> I don't plan to add anymore fish <Good.> , since I
think I am at capacity, but could I add another polyp? <Once the
tank has stabilized, yes some hardy colonial polyps, such as Zoanthus
would be a good choice.> pH- 8.2, ammonia .25 ppm,
nitrite 0, nitrate 10 ppm, specific gravity- 1.024,
temp.-76, <The nitrates while not at an obscene amount
currently, are not ideal. I would utilize larger water changes. Since
you are going to be keeping invertebrates you'll want to also get a
phosphate, calcium and alkalinity test kit at the least.> I do
weekly water changes of 5-6 gallons and add Coral-Vite.
<Not a fan of the last product but it shouldn't hurt anything
either. Are you using anything to maintain calcium levels yet?> I
would like to provide the best environment possible so I am willing to
sell plasma, hock my wedding ring, etc to make necessary improvements.
<Hehe, you're worse than me.> Would you be so kind as to look
over my list and see if this would be a logical step by step
improvement. <Am doing so.> The Conscientious Marine Aquarist
& Coral Propagation books, <Great books.> battery back up
system 2 power heads-with the intakes filtered additional live
rock-(have to find somewhere to cure this that will be safe from a 2 yr
old) <Ahh yes.> hang on protein skimmer <Good this one is
IMPORTANT!> I KNOW I need to acquire a QT tank and will do so as
quickly as possible without arousing the suspicions of my
husband. <I understand.> It is one matter to slip in
a new rock, or power head. Another tank is definitely going
to attract attention and may cause him to wonder if I am borrowing from
the grocery budget again. <I'm sure you can think of some
colorful way to explain things, I always do.> I placed this tank in
my bedroom to insure that the 2 year old would not have access to it
unsupervised. <Sounds good.> Now, I wake up in the
morning to find kids sitting on the edge of my bed peering into the
tank. We are all hooked! <Very enjoyable
hobby.> Thank you for all your help and I promise not to bother you
again for a while. <No bother at all, please respond to
this email if anything I have said confuses you or gives way to more in
depth questions. Is quite enjoyable to answer well thought out and
polite queries such as this one.> Cindy <Adam
Jackson.> Wholesale (Reef
System) changes 01-10-06 Hi all, <David> First and foremost I
would like to say THANK YOU for all that you do for this hobby and
those of us that are less informed. Thank you, thank you,
thank you. I hope that the yelled thanks doesn't put me on the
'bad guy' email list or anything :D. Anyway, I am
thinking of making some big changes to my system after reading Mr.
Fenner's book and everyone else's advice on
WWM. Before I ask any questions, however, I would like to
give you my system specs: <Always a great place to start...>
Setup -75 gal Oceanic (not so-reef ready) FOWLR system (with one bunch
of green star polyps). Tank has 1 corner overflow with
1" drain (Durso Standpipe) and, I believe, a 3/4" return from
10 gal sump. -about 55# LR (if I remember correctly) -between .5 and
2.5 inches of crushed coral substrate depending on where in the tank
you measure -130 watts of full spectrum & 130 watts of actinic (all
PC). The actinics run 14 hrs; the full specs' 12. -Rio
2100 pumping back at ~4ft head -Backpack Skimmer (producing about 1
cupful of skimmate /week) -1 250 watt heater Livestock -An Orchid
Dottyback -A PJ Cardinalfish -A Falco Hawkfish -A Coral Beauty
Angelfish -A B&W Clownfish -2 Yellow-tailed Blue Damselfish -A
Longspined Black Urchin -A Sally Lightfoot Crab -A Green Brittle Star
(yes, I'm aware of the problems this guy might cause, just
haven't been able to 'fish' him out yet) -A Decorator Crab
(genus/species unknown unfortunately) -3 Turbo Snails -4 Astrea Snails
-Quite a bit of coralline and green hair algae -Just a bit of Cyano
Parameters -Nitrates: 5 - 15 ppm -Salinity: 1.023 -dKH: 6 -Calcium: 380
ppm -pH: 8.0 -Temp: 79 F -Water changes vary. I average a
10% change a month. <You may want to increase amount or frequency of
changes to lower your nitrates.> First, I would like to run by my
proposed changes and see if you see any hiccups. I would
like to change my substrate to a 5" bed of Reef Ready Aragonite
sand. I plan on emptying my tank into buckets with a tub for
the LR and a tub for the critters that will both be heated, lit, and
circulated by power heads (just the circ done by the powerheads
:D). I then plan on moving the crushed coral to a new 30 gal
sump that I bought to replace the undersized sump I currently use. I
will then add the sand bed to the tank, refill it partially with the
old water, restack the rock, and finish refilling the
tank. <I would place the sand then place a garbage bag
over the sand. You then fill the tank with water, adding the live rock
last. This method keeps water clouding to a minimum.> At this time I
will also add a new pump (something in the range of 1200 gph at 4 ft
head before discounts for bends, elbows etc.) After letting that run
about a week, I plan on removing the crushed coral from the
sump. In it's place I will put down a .5-1" bed of
sand, some LR, and some macro algae. At this point I will
light the sump on a cycle reverse of the main tank. What do
you think? <Sounds good, but I will address your crushed coral
below.> Here are my questions. 1. As far as I can read, throughout
the net and on your website, my overflow will not handle the flow I am
about to give the tank. <You are correct.> The return
will be a 4-6 outlet manifold with flexible PVC for positioning of the
water flow. I believe that I have 2 viable options
here. The first would be to convert the original return to a
Durso style drain and have them both feed the sump. <They
still will not be able to handle the flow.> The second would be to
add a siphon-'esque return out of the overflow box to the new pump
in a closed loop fashion. I don't see any danger in
flooding as the 'siphon' would be running directly down into
the pump. There would be the chance of burning out the pump
if the water dropped down far enough in the overflow. If I
went with the closed loop idea I could still utilize the Rio on the
original return but if it failed, I would lose all of the water out of
my tank (presumably all over my floor) to the point where the new pump
started sucking air. Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions?
<This idea sounds far to risky to me. I suggest having a dedicated
return pump, your sump will also benefit from a slower flow. A
dedicated pump for the closed loop will allow you to keep it cranked up
without having to worry about the sump. You will also benefit by not
having your whole tank shut down if you lose one pump.> Drilling new
holes is out of the question. <No drilling required, the closed loop
can be designed to go over the back of the tank.> 2. The whole point
of moving the crushed coral to the sump for a week would be to help
seed the sand a bit. Do you think this will
help? <Yes> Is it worth the effort or would I be
better off skipping that step? <I would suggest setting up the sump
as you plan to run it from the beginning. You can seed the
sand bed by placing crushed coral in containers or filter socks and
placing them in the sump and tank. The useful critters will spread from
there.> 3. I am also looking at buying a live sand activator such as
Garf Grunge. Do you think the addition of sand from another
system or a product such as this will help improve/diversify
the micro-critters that I already have in the
tank? <Yes> Would it be worth the investment? <Yes,
unless you have local reefers that could give you some established
sand.> 4. With the hair algae/Cyano issues that I
currently have, I believe from what I have read that the DSB will take
care of them. Should I still consider getting some sort of
Reef Janitor package? <You will benefit from a Janitor package and
you will want to buy sand "critters". It is extremely
important to keep your sand bed well stocked with beneficial organisms,
such as worms, or it will solidify and die.> Sorry for such a long
email, but I want to be certain that I am doing this
right. I have a long term hope for a reef tank and I highly
value everyone's opinion. <It is always a pleasure to work with
someone that is planning ahead instead of asking how to fix a mistake
due to improper planning. Travis> Thanks again, David Scorps and Nitrates: Marathon of Questions 1/11/06 Dear WWM crew, <Garen> I have been looking through this site constantly and thoroughly in an effort to answer my questions without having to bother you all, but unfortunately I am not confident enough in the conclusions that I have come to and need reassurance. <Okay> I have what I think to be a 4.5" diabolus scorpion, <Neat... Not often seen in the trade> 2" fuzzy lion, a 2" Lowfin scorpion, <Small!> 4.5" maroon clown with his BTA buddy, tiny 8" chainlink moray and a 3.5" honeycomb grouper. <... all in the same system?> I will put these guys in a 46 bowfront <Way too small...> with 1x175 what 14K metal halide and 2x24" VHOs and 20 lbs of Live Rock (I have 200 lbs at my disposal, so please tell me if I should add more) with a 29 gallon sump/wet dry/refugium underneath. I am going to skim this setup with Turboflotor 1000 with a Oceanrunner 2500 pump. Would you suggest using a plenum in this setup? <If you have the inclination... in the sump, yes> If so, should I use it in the refugium inside the sump or should I do it in the 46 gallon display tank? <The former> Is it okay to put different kinds of macroalgae and 15 coquina clams in the refugium in order to control nitrates. Would an 18 watt PC light be sufficient for the refugium? <Yes, and yes, but barely adequate.> See, nitrates have always been my big problem and I want to get them below 15ppm. <You need, will need a much larger system to do this... with this livestock list> I had to bring all of my fish home over winter break (from college) and the tank water was mostly new. Poor planning on my part. My system just cycled and while the ammonia just recently dropped below .25 (nitrites never rose above 0.0), the nitrates are ridiculously high at 80ppm. I have macroalgae in the sump but no lights over it yet and the nitrates haven't budged. Is lack of proper lighting the reason why the macro isn't utilizing the nitrates? <One of them, yes> I am looking at building an 6' tall/ 8" diameter skimmer that is listed on "Snailman's Reef" in the DIY section ( http://www.hawkfish.org/snailman/snailmandiy.htm). Have you ever seen/heard about his DIY skimmers? <Oh, yes. Posted on WWM...> If so, what is your opinion? Anything that you would modify on this design? <Make it larger> Ideally I would like to use my crappy Seaclone 150/Turboflotor 1000/6'tall-8"dia. DIY Venturi skimmer to skim my 46 bow and 55 gallon FOWLR tanks. The 55 gallon has a 5" niger trigger, 4" humu trigger, 16" white eye moray eel, and possibly a 6" longhorn cowfish. <Also needs to be much larger> Is that enough skimming for this collective bioload? <Not hardly> If my Humu's old best buddy was a 5" dogface puffer (he passed away), would it be safe to assume that I could trust him with the 6" longhorn cowfish? <Not IMO/E> I am concerned about the cowfish being nipped on his fins and tail. <Me too... and it subsequently taking out the tank> The cowfish has a serious attitude problem and likes to pick on my scorpions so I can't trust him with them in the 46 gallon tank. The humu also has an attitude and has a killed a 3" Webb burr puffer before by attacking its gill and pectoral fin. He's a clown trigger in a Humu's clothing! <Heeee!> When I move the humu, niger, white eye moray, and cowfish (?) back up to school into the 55 gallon tank, in order to prevent fighting, should I put one in the tank before the other or acclimate all at the same time? <Better to either trade most all in, or plan... oh, I see this directly below> BTW I am going to be picking up a 75 or 90 gallon aquarium in order to replace the 55 within the next 3 months. Gotta keep the Cowfish Happy! Thank you, Garen Wright <Cheers, Bob Fenner> 125 reef - 01/09/2006 Bob, <James today and thank you for the compliment.>First off great website. I could not imagine doing this hobby without your help. I have so many things to learn,<Yes indeed> but I am reading and making some progress. I have not been able to e-mail you guys through my server so I hope you don't mind me going right to the source. My system is a mixed reef with a good many corals. Toadstool, colt, couple of leathers, couple of large mushroom colonies, one brain, one bubble, one plate, one star polyp colony, one Crocea 6 inch clam, one yellow and one sailfin tang, One small percula clown, one velvet damsel, one three stripe damsel,560 watts of compact fluorescent lighting 50/50 actinic and 10k, 200 lbs of live rock 29 gal refugium with 4 inches of sand, rather large piece of Chaeto 12 inches in diameter or so. My main concern is nitrates, I found out that the test kits I have been using (red sea) were inaccurate false zero readings. I now have Salifert kits and have around 20 ppm nitrate. I have been doing 10 gallon water changes every three days for 10 days. My nitrates have been starting to go down. I am also in the process of removing the bioballs but am going slowly <good> because my skimmers are not so great. I have two SeaClone 150s running 24/7 and they are making skimmate. About two cups per week. I have modified the SeaClones and they do work somewhat. I am saving for a AquaC 180 sump model, should be installed within the next three weeks. Just got a RO unit and have been using for about ten days. Alk stays around 10 dKH and calcium around 420ppm. I vacuum every water change.<Good practice> Can I remove the rest of the bioballs in my sump before I get a real skimmer. <Yes, but do it slowly, 10-15% weekly.> Brown algae on the glass is driving me nuts. What do you think about poly filters for nitrate. <They do remove impurities that lead to nitrates.> I am using phosphate removing filer media. I clean the media every couple of days and change a couple oz.s of carbon on a weekly basis. Tank has been running two years plus I am having fairly good results but understand that I must get this nitrate problem under control. Any ideas or suggestions??? I am using instant ocean salt. <The Poly Filter will remove phosphate. Read here. http://www.poly-bio-marine.com/polyprod.htm. If using this, no real need to use carbon or phosphate removing media unless your phosphates have skyrocketed. I'll post a link on nitrate control. In the future do search the Wet Web Media as most all your questions will be answered here. Do follow "Tips for sending queries" found on the WWM. Most importantly you need to do a spelling/grammar check as your query was loaded with errors. We must correct errors before we can post on the daily FAQ's and we just don't have the time to do this. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm Thanks in advance for any help. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Mark G Re: Yellow water - 01/09/2006 Thanks for the advice James, <You're welcome> While my dealer said it is a carpet anemone, it looks more like a bubble tip, specifically a Delicate Sea Anemone judging from photos from the link you gave me! <OK>I think my dealer is a little retarded! How can these people own these shops and not know what they are selling...<Happens all the time.> Do you think my fish and anemone will survive the treatment? <I can't answer that, too many variables.> I have a blue tang, two false clowns, a canary wrasse, six line wrasse and three Chromis...<Part of your problem comes from overcrowding. A 40 gallon tank is not large enough for the blue tang, realizing it may be small now, but tangs DO like lots of swimming room. Without the tang you are pretty close to full stocking level.> What kind of carbon should I use? Can you suggest anything in particular? <I'd go with Chemi-Pure or a Poly Filter.> Will I need to remove the medication ASAP to prevent death? I'm not clear on this matter? <Joe, fish don't like taking medication any more than we do and that is why we need to quarantine fish and/or treat the infected fish only. Medicating healthy fish just lowers their immune system which is low to begin with. If you can't transfer this tang to a separate (QT) tank, I'd still carbon the tank. You can always net the tang and try a freshwater dip. I'll post links on this and quarantine set up. In the future do search the Wet Web as most of your questions will be answered here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QuarMarFishes.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm <Good luck, James (Salty Dog)> Thanks for the advice <You're welcome, and Joe, might be a good time to look for another dealer> Joe Re: Replacing Sand, Building Depth Back Up - 01/06/2006 I
think patience is the most important element in this hobby. <If not,
it's hard to argue.> I'm trying to take it slow and
understand why problems (algae) happen so I can steer clear of them in
the future. <Even better, you can then form your own opinions on the
best course of action to take as it relates to your system!> I can
see I have several things to improve on. <As they say
"Admitting you have a problem..."> I want to go home right
now and start................... take out the old carbon and add new,
start aerating my water, get that buffer Etc...............but I'm
stuck at work with all these monkeys!!! <Hey! Behind you! I
don't think that's a banana!> I know what'll be doing
this weekend!!!!!!!!!!! <Too much more of this, and you'll be in
school again;)> Thanks again Josh. Hopefully the next
time I write you, it will be about the sequence of putting different
fish species into the tank!! <With your current outlook, I'm
sure it will be (be careful though, this want to know/understand thing
is all consuming...Look where it got me)! Stocking order can be found
within our FAQ's on each, so review there, prepare what ever
questions you still have, and we'll be happy to help. -
Josh> Reef precipitate
problems... 1/7/06 Hello, Crew, Happy Holidays. I'm
worried about my 55gal reef. Here is my system: Standard
55gal w/sump--setup early OCT 05. Surge 3500 for return--about 300gph @
top. 4" DSB CaribSea special grade over 1" plenum. 1" LS
and rubble over DSB. 60lbs. LR (encrusted in neon green coralline) and
10lbs. coral skeletons. Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates 0, Ca 400,
11dKH, ph 8.0, 77-78F. 1--300W Hydor heater in sump. 1--250w 10000k
Ushio MH about 10mon. old, centered and raised about 12" above
water 6 hrs/day. 2--65w 'superactinic' PC also @ about
12", 3 mon. old, 12hr/day. 10 blue LED w/ 9w transformer for
moonlight. Mini-Jet 900 (235gph) in tank for added flow opposing the
return outlet for more chaotic water movement, though I've noticed
that most of my corals tend to sway more in one direction than
randomly. 3.5"x20" generic venturi PS with Rio 600
pump--skimmate is med. green and fills the cup ea. day. <The darker
the better...> Rock is setup as an 'island', though I'm
going to change to a 'back wall' design w/ my next wc.
Vertebrates: 1--2" Ocellaris clown, 1--1.5" Domino damsel,
<Keep your eye on this... mean> 1-1" 4-line damsel--fed
2-3x/wk w/ OSI brine shrimp flake and Tetra marine flake. Inverts: 15
var. hermit crabs, 15 var. Nassarius/turbo/??? snails, decent copepod
population, not too many amphipods (I think the clown has been eating
them), and var. filter feeders, etc in LR. Corals: 3--2-3" Kenya
tree (clumped together), 1--4" purple Ricordea, 1--.5"
Ricordea frag...just grew out of nowhere, 3 mushroom frags, about 10
Anthelia frags, med. Anthelia group, 30 polyp blue Stolonifera, 7 polyp
zoos frag, 20 button polyp frag, 100+ polyp Palythoa, 2 sm. pulsing
xenia frags. Plants: very little brown algae, 6"x4" patch of
Caulerpa in tank about 4" tall, and a small start of Udotea.
Supplements: B-ionic 2 part weekly, Kent SuperBuffer every other day,
Kent iodine weekly, Kent reef essentials weekly. Here are
my problems 1) Can't seem to get pH above 8.0 My source
water is treated tap water, pH 7.6, .5dGH, 5dKH. I've been using
Oceanic salt, but am thinking of going back to Instant Ocean. <I
would> I've read the articles re: pH and alk and I've used
baking soda and Kent's SuperBuffer and no matter how much I add, I
can't seem to raise the pH. Most disturbing is that as I was mixing
up a batch of water for a wc the water became very cloudy after being
allowed to sit overnight. <Likely a reaction with alkaline materials
in the source water> I don't know what the precipitate is, but
it is white and has covered everything including the heater and pump
used to keep the water mixed/oxygenated/heated and the pH is an
astounding 7.6, even though I adjusted it to 8.2 w/ baking soda before
adding the salt...salt is a 50/50 mix of oceanic and instant ocean.
<Just use the IO> 2) My Xenia are melting away! The
polyps seem to be melting off the stalks and those remaining are
withered and not pulsing. They are in a med. flow area. w/ direct
lighting. 3) Palythoa was literally dumped into system by
my wife when we got it about 3 wks. ago. Everything closed up tighter
than a chastity belt and she went pale. Now 2-5 polyps closest to the
lights will open moderately, the color is returning... slowly, and the
whole think 'pimples' at night, but nothing more...and roughly
every other day I notice what looks kind of like 2-3"
'strands' of ....I don't know what to call it but its pale,
thin/wispy/snot-like, and clings to the polyps until I guess the
current blows it away. 4) Zoos have started to
develop a white powder-like appearance near the center of about 3 of
the polyps and aren't as extended as before...oh, and one is
extended backwards...the polyp somehow got itself inverted so that it
can't close and looks more like a button toadstool--can/should it
be fixed? 5) Kenya tree has what looks like some die
off on one of its branches. the middle of a 1" long branch is kind
of withered and dark. There are also dark spots under every single
polyp that I hadn't noticed until 3wks. ago. <Likely all this is
due to poor water quality... New water should be pre-mixed, stored for
a week or so before use> 6) I got some Aiptasia in the
rock with the Palythoa, one touching some of the Paly. and the baking
soda injection I was recommended didn't work. Should I use a
peppermint shrimp or Kalk injection. I don't currently have any
Kalk. <I would leave this/these be till your other livestock is in
better shape> 7) The Stolonifera is normally very hardy
and always out, but the day before yesterday it was completely
withdrawn...all day!, the next day it sent out two polyps, and today
there are about 8. It sits about in the middle of the tank.
8) Generally everything seems to be declining off and on
except for my Ricordea which has been growing by leaps and bounds, as
well as the mushroom frags. Added
thoughts: I'm looking at upgrading my return to a little giant pump
through a SQUID and maybe a refugium, if I can swing it, in which case
the Caulerpa would probably be moved...or maybe not, as I kind of like
the look. <This last paragraph is a very good
addition/change> Sorry for the ridiculously long message
but I guess I'm venting/frustrated/baffled. Do you have any
insights on these concerns? Branon. <I would go ahead with the
refugium addition, leave the Aiptasia be, switch back to the Instant
Ocean, not add any more livestock... Bob Fenner> Questions Saved Up For A Month Plus One - reef op. 01/01/2006 Good Evening Great Ones! <Uh.. They're busy so you've got Josh.> Greetings from the mountains of Colorado (marine central). I have saved up a few questions over the last month, and hope you can find some time to assist me. But first, here is the basic information on our system: <Okey-dokey.> Our tank is a 130gal homemade Starphire bow-front; 24"High by 24" deep by 5 feet wide. It is bottom drilled with two overflows draining into a refugium. The tank is filled with 250 pounds of Aquiculture Florida live rock and 130 pounds of coral based live sand. The lighting for the tank includes two 250W 10K Ushio pendants, and two 80W T-5 Blue Actinic fluorescents. These are on a typical photo period of 12 hours with the MH on for 6 hours mid-day. Our homemade acrylic "refugium" holds 25gal with the tank overflow entering through two disposable 200-micron filter socks. It also has live rock and sand and one 150W 6500K MH Pendant that turns on for 12 hours at night. <That's quite a bit over a 25.> Other equipment includes; an Aqua-C EV120 protein skimmer, two new style Ebo Jager 150W heaters, an Iwaki MD70RLT main circulation pump, an Eheim Aquaball power-head, and four ½" adjustable Loc-line return water nozzles. The water used is carbon filtered RO adjusted with Buffer, and then mixed with salt after a day of circulation. Make-up water is currently RO with buffer added. Water parameters for 12/30/05 are: Temp 75.5 to 77 Deg F., S.G. is 1.0235 to 1.024, Ammonia 0, Nitrite .01ppm, <Should also be at 0.> Nitrate .3ppm, pH 8.0, Alk 150ppm (8.4 dKH or 3 meq/L), and Calcium 335ppm. <Rather low on these.> Water changes are 15% every two weeks. <I'd do 10% weekly, but not bad.> Happily, the Florida Aqua-cultured live rock came covered with: 8 types of Macro Algae, purple Coralline Algae, four types of Corals, 5 types of Sponges, two types of clams, three types of beneficial crabs, many types of tunicates, two types of starfish, many types of worms, barnacles, two types of shrimp, six black sea urchins, and a host of other interesting inverts. <Awesome!> Unhappily, we received two mantis shrimp (one caught and one at large), 30+ whelks (all gone), and 20+ Gorilla Crabs (20 captured and at least one at large). <Hmm...The whole cake and eating thing huh?> Right before our eyes, the Gorilla crabs stalked our poor blue-leg hermits like cats and pounced on them, dragged them off and tore them apart with relish - good riddance. For three months now, the tank has been very healthy. The crabs and shrimp all have molted and grown, all the filter feeders look healthy and have good color (they are fed DT's and Marine Snow every other day). A rock anemone and a Condylactis anemone came with the rock and are both apparently healthy (fed mostly deep sea clams and broth). The only two fish, a Yellow Tang and a Lawnmower Blenny are also very happy eating maroon macro algae. <Sounds like paradise.> But, I have been trying to raise my calcium and alkalinity to meet the published standards you folks so often advise. This is because we want to add a few corals and a pink pulsing Xenia. I began adding small amounts of Kalkwasser two weeks ago (about a ¼ cup once a day (slowly). <Have you run tests to establish calcium consumption?> About the same time bad things started to happen. White splotches are starting to cover our coralline algae, and the young coralline algae circles on the glass also turned from purple to white (please see photo). About the same time, I put a new piece of live rock into the tank that had white coralline algae on it. <Not "contagious". Symptomatic.> So here are the questions: 1) From reading your FAQs I note that two anemones of different types can wage chemical warfare on each other. Will the rock anemone (photo attached for I.D.) wage war with the Condylactis that came with our live rock? <How close together are they? Picture looks quite like a Heteractis aurora really.> The Condy often deflates and spews forth brown slime, and then re-inflates after a few hours, but he is otherwise healthy looking and eats when fed. <Make sure that you are feeding small enough pieces of food. If pieces are too large they will be regurgitated, providing no nutrition.> 2) What on God's purple reef is turning our coralline algae white and can I stop it? <Actually, it's what's not on "God's Purple Reef". When you've gotten the pH, alk. and calcium bit straightened out, it will be fine.> 3) I am about to hook up an auto top-off system (Tunze Osmolator), and a peristaltic pump to drip in Kalkwasser. Considering the problem with the coralline algae above, is the latter advisable? <Well...Could be bad news if overdosing your system by just doing systematic top offs. Would make it even harder to keep a good pH. Establish the desired balance first, then see where you are.> 4) I can't seem to keep the pH up no matter what. I add buffer, and have seen no signs of precipitation of Calcium carbonate (other than possibly the white covering the coralline algae, but that seems too target specific). Adding Kalkwasser should help raise the pH and the Calcium levels, but considering the white plague, I again wonder; should I do this? <Try taking a gallon of your system water, measure the pH and then aerate it over a 24hr. period. Retest. Has the pH gone up? Poor circulation is the most likely reason for the pH problem and if this test reveals an increase in pH, that's what you've got.> 5) One of my red Mithrax crabs has grown to a size rivaling Godzilla. His name is Monstro. Monstro has a girlfriend that seems to have a kangaroo pouch on her belly full of thousands of eggs. Two part question: will Monstro harm corals and Xenia if added to the tank (he is as large as a 1/2 dollar coin)? <Not very likely if in fact Mithrax, but...> And, will his brood overrun the tank when they hatch and cause harm? <Not sure there, though a large population of anything will get hungry and competitive.> 6) We have four peppermint shrimp and two very reclusive shrimp with peacock like iridescence in their otherwise clear bodies. One of the peppermint shrimps has molted several times and is getting quite large. Her (we think) tummy seems to have thousands of eggs tucked up under her swimmeret's. Do these shrimp carry eggs like this, or are we imagining things? <Yes they do.> 7) The last mantis shrimp stays in back of the tank where we never see him. He is very wary and knows we mean him no good. We have made two traps fashioned after lobster traps, and purchased another. These traps catch dozens of blue-leg hermits, but the Mantis only scoffs at us. <Thank goodness they don't have fingers;)> The rock he lives in is 25 pounds and covered with various sponges. So, I don't want to tear the rock apart and put it in fresh water as advised. I have though about adding an obnoxious night-light in back where he lives to entice him to move to the front where I can bait and capture him. Any great advice on this one? <Sounds like your on the right track. If it doesn't feel safe, it will move. Oh, and just to save some time I'm putting your next question here.> We have a red Mithrax crab that had been carrying around a large kangaroo pouch of eggs on her belly. Last night, after dark, she climbed to the top of a high rock, stretched her body skyward into a vertical position and then released her spawn in three dramatic eruptions. She then flapped her pouch open and closed like a bellows to expel the last of the young'ns before closing it back up. The young crabs were capable of swimming against strong current (like miniature tadpoles), and were attracted to my flashlight. This may be a common occurrence for you, in which case I apologize. <I don't believe this is common in the least.> But, in over 35 years of diving, I have never seen such a thing. Please let me know if you would like to see my poor attempt at filming the event. <Please do send this along.> Thanks for helping all of us with your great site. <A great pleasure to be a part of it!> Also, we would like to let your sponsors know that we have purchased from them almost exclusively as a result of your good work. <I'm sure they'll love to hear it.> Sincerely, Brad in Basalt <Hope I've been able to help. - Josh> Mainly reef
operation Hello crew! Hi guys, I'm a long time reader, first
time asker. I love your site <Me too!> I have had a 92
gallon corner aquarium for over 5 years. I changed the sump
about 2 years ago to something larger, a 30 gallon corner sump. I have
been through many different service people, my local fish store is a
real rip-off for the most part - they tend to oversell me stuff without
telling me how it works. <"Let the buyer beware">
They will sell livestock without asking questions or giving
advice, so it's fantastic that there is a resource like this for
people like me to research from, thank you. <Welcome> In any
case, I had lost interest in this hobby about a year ago after spending
around $1500 in LR, and "live sand", and a bunch of new
equipment. Ultimately I ended up with a tank full of
Aiptasia (sp?), and eventually I just turned the lights off and let it
"live" for a year without doing anything other than replacing
evaporated water and feeding my two Percula Clowns. Well, the holidays
roll my in 2005 and my wife asked me to do something about the fish
tank during the break. I cleaned it up, replaced the bulbs, and ensured
that all the equipment was working, including a calcium reactor that
was never hooked up right. Here is what I have now;
- 92 gallon
corner with a 30 gallon sump with a big pump
- Berlin
Protein Skimmer ( a real treat to setup ) with a Magdrive 300
- Canreef
Calcium Reactor with a large Eheim pump
- 3
powerheads MaxiJet 900s on a timer
- 3 55 watt
actinic power compact and 2 55 watt 10k <I'd switch out the
actinics for more white...>
- About 130
pounds of live rock
- UV light
- All of the
plumbing is hard plumbed and setup well. So after getting the tank
re-invigorated the ammonia is 0, nitrates around 20 PPM but I recently
removed the bioballs from the overflow and added LR so it should
drop. Calcium is around 350, PH is around 8.2-8.3 after a
fresh water change, and everything was looking pretty good. <Do
measure your alkaline reserve as well...> I added a few snails,
three small sand sifting starfish, <These are highly overrated...
too predaceous for my liking> and two very expensive long tentacle
anemones. <Not easily kept...> It took about 5 days before they
died, and they never really opened up properly. The snails
and starfish died as well. I have never EVER had luck with
snails or anenomes and I can't figure out
why. Temperature is between 79 and 83 - now I am wondering
if temperature is a big issue here - I really don't want to buy a
chiller unless I have to. <Likely don't have to...> After
cleaning up *again*, I added some fish over a few days. Of
course the ammonia was still at zero, and water quality was still
pretty good, and I did a tiny water change during the clean
up. I added a cowfish, a tiny regal tang, <Very hard to
keep...> a coral beauty, and a yellow head sleeper
goby. I also added a 6 line wrasse that was seen for 1 day
and shortly after disappeared. The fish are doing
great, although the coral beauty hides all the time, never comes to the
front of the tank. It's always swimming in caves. I
wanted to give you the background information before the real question
- sorry for the book; 1) Why
can't I be successful with invertebrates or anenomes? <Likely
your water quality (lack alkalinity, magnesium out of balance), and
insufficient light intensity...>
2) Why is the rock turning all
brown now? It's almost like the tank thinks it's new, but
it's not. <Some shift in balance... to the algae's
benefit... perhaps just available solubilized phosphate>
3) What can I do to grow
coralline again? Does Garf Grunge work? <Bolster both
alkalinity and pH... and not really. This is just "hammered
dead/live rock"> Please help. I love the hobby, but
experiences like this remind me of why I gave up for a
year... I'm sick and tired of not being able to build a
nice reef... I've had a predator tank in the past, and
it was cool to stare at the clown, puffer, and lion, but something
about investigating a tank for various signs of life intrigues me.
<Do keep reading... on WWM, recent magazines in the hobby
interest... other places on the Net... keep good notes, bolster
carbonate, bicarbonate hardness, investigate new purchases ahead of
acquisition... Bob Fenner> New set-up and plumbing Dear WWM crew, <Lance> I happened onto your web site a couple of months ago and have been reading feverishly. <About the same pace am keying...> What a tremendous wealth of information! I would like to give you my intentions, tell you how I plan to get there and get your feedback. I'm starting from scratch and ultimately want a reef tank with SPS corals and a few fish. I can't stress enough that I am proceeding very slowly and expect this to be an ongoing process over years, not completed in a couple of weeks. I want to establish as closed a system as possible. Minimal nutrient input and export. <Sounds very good> Equipment: Oceanic 215 gal. RR tank (72.5 x 24.5 x 29 inches) and stand. 4" Aragamax sand bed and 400 pounds of live rock. Oceanic Model 3 sump using bioballs and possibly a sand bed in sump with minimal light. 2 - 10 gal. Refugia. <... would look for, try to find space for larger volume/s> Mag Drive 18 pump (3/4" inlet/outlet) in sump. No skimmer - Exclusively biofiltration. <Mmm, would fit at least a small, under-sized one here... You will find the utility...> Lights - Current Outer Orbit (3 x 150W 10,000K MH and 4 x 96W dual actinic PC's) for display and each refugium will have it's own Current Dual Satellite (2 x 40W). Stage 1: Set up and cycling I'm stuck with the factory tank. No option to drill additionally. <Rats! Perhaps "over the top" returns... worth considering> I realize I will easily overwhelm the 2 - 1" overflows with this pump. Therefore, I propose to tee off the pump going to the display returns for the refugia. I plan to plumb the display returns with ¾" PVC from the pump, teed to each return and use a gate valve to throttle back to the capability of the overflows. <Mmm, not the overflows... let these run full-out> My conservative estimate is 300 GPH for each overflow and match the returns. Between the pump and gate valve will be 2 - ½" tees, one for each refugium, with a gate valve to control flow. One refugium will contain Chaetomorpha and pods turning 5 times volume per hour. The other will contain Gracilaria and Mysid shrimp turning 20 times volume per hour. Both refugia will have DSB, a couple of pounds of live rock and gravity feed back to sump to continuously "seed" crustacean populations in the display. Refugia will likely be seeded from a commercial source. <Okay> My first question concerns the bioballs. I frequently see these referred to in the FAQ's as nitrate factories. Shouldn't the nitrates be produced regardless, as the end stage of nitrification? <Mmm, yes... providing more surface area, agitation here "piles up" the forward reaction, accumulation of nitrate...> Is there a difference in this occurring on the bioballs as opposed to the surface of the rock or sand? <Mmm, no... the same reaction series, just more "sped up", more microbes...> Between the DSB's in the refugia and display, the algae in the refugia and the denitrification occurring in the live rock, can I conceivably control the nitrates? Thus, minimizing water changes and recycling nutrients? <Yes... especially over time... into the whole running several months...> Stage 2: Reef Janitors When cycling is complete, I will slowly add Hermits, peppermint shrimp, sea cucumbers and serpent stars. By slowly, I expect to be at least 6 months in from the initial set-up at this point. Give adequate time to re-equilibrate. <Good> Stage 3: Increase Display Turnover I need at least 20 times turnover per hour for the corals and would like to shoot for 30 times to allow more flexibility and increased head over time. I was thinking of using a closed loop system to accomplish this. The Sequence Reeflo Hammerhead pump (1 & ½" inlet/outlet) provides 5400 GPH @ 5' (0' static head but easily 5' due to plumbing). I'll plumb 1 & ½" PVC from pump and decrease to ¾" PVC for the manifold. I figure 14 to 16 - ½" nozzles ( ½" PVC 45 and 90 degree elbows). By my calculations, this should easily get me 20 times turnover per hour and potentially 30 times turnover with good nozzle velocity in the 300 to 400 GPH range evenly distributed around the top of the display. I can throttle back with a gate valve between the pump and the manifold. <Yes> My big question here is how to plumb the drain back to the pump for the closed loop. I know, ultimately, I need 1 & ½" PVC into the pump. But, how many drains should converge to the 1 & ½" PVC, <Two are better than one... placed near the corners...> what size diameter PVC for each drain up to the 1 & ½" PVC <1 1/2"> and placement in the display for the drains? <The corners> Incidentally, I am paying attention to details in the plumbing such as true unions on each side of pumps, minimizing tees and elbows, etc. <Ah, good> My concern is that there is a fundamental flaw in my reasoning, so far, somewhere along this process that I may be able to correct before I get started rather than when I encounter it! Any better or more efficient suggestions to accomplish increased turnover? <Mmm, no> Stage 4: Begin Adding Corals and Fish Key here will be slowly adding corals and fish. Thanks very much for the help and any insight. I hope I've not monopolized too much of your time. I intended to get as much of this information out there in an organized manner so I can keep future questions to a single sentence. (Don't hold your breath.) ha ha Thank you again for all the wonderful reference material and resources. Sincerely, Lance Good <Thank you for sharing your plans, goals. Best to hash out, cogitate furiously now... Bob Fenner> Reef operation best 12/28/05 First, let me tell you what a wonderful and informative site you have, I've been reading it for a approx. a year and a half now. Before I get into questions, it would probably be best if I gave you some history. I've had (fw) fish off and on for approx. 20 years. I had a 60 gal. Oceanic flatback hex tank in storage for about 8 years (too tall and too narrow), I decided to use this tank to save some money, (fixed income). My first mistake was going into something and not knowing anything about it. The second was listening to the sales people at the LFS. I've had this tank up and running for a little over a year and a half. I have approx. 60 lbs. of live rock (not much room for the fish to swim, takes up most of the tank), approx. 1-1/2" of crushed coral and approx. 1-1/2" of live sand. For circulation I'm running 1 Via Aqua 1300, l Seio 820, 1 Zoo Med 270 and 2 Aqua Clear 50's. For Filtration, I have a Whisper Power Filter 5 (left over from (fw) days and I running a Aqua Remora hob skimmer. For lighting, I have Coral Life 65 Watt 10,000 k daytime and actinic . At this time I don't have a chiller and I'm running a 250 watt heater. I only use RO water and my perimeters are Ph 8.2, Ammonia, nitrite 0, nitrate 2.5, Calcium 300, <A little low... perhaps your alk. is too high...> Alk High, S.G. 1.025, Temp 76, Phosphate.05, DKH 8. As far as livestock I have an assortment of snails, red and blue legged hermit crabs, 2 peppermint shrimp, two cleaner shrimp and 4 blue/green Chromis. At one time or another I've had a Kole Tang (who disappeared), 3 other Chromis (who disappeared), <Disappearing fishes?> a watchman Goby (I found his remains a couple days later), a neon goby (who disappeared). The Neon and a couple of the Chromis before they disappeared, they seemed to have lost control of their movement when they tried to swim, they would only go straight up and down, I asked a couple of elf's and nobody knew what was wrong. As far as corals, I have a plate coral, a finger leather, a button polyp, a colony polyp yellow, 3 Ricordea mushrooms, Kenya tree, green fluorescent mushrooms and 5 rock anemone (started out as one hitchhiked on LR, first 9 months, didn't do anything, since then it has split 4 times, once, twice in one day, What are they good for?) <Filtration, using water solubilized nutrient, looks...> I purchased a Xenia from Live Aquaria and two days later all that was left was the plug it was attached to, it never did expand. With this current tank, I was thinking of putting a hob refugium and doing away with the Whisper filter (like it says, I'm lost) My second option is to get a larger tank (approx 110 or 120), I would get one with the Megaflows with a sump in and putting the HOB refugium on the back of it. I would have to use the current lighting. With all said and done, what it boils down to is what is the easiest and least expensive way to do this, <The added hang on refugium is cheaper than the new tank...> You don't have to tell me, I should have gotten a new tank from the start and I could have saved a couple thousand dollars. I also have a third option I just thought of, I could put everything out to the road and forget about it, what do you think? <Heeee! Do send along your address!> I'm sorry this is so long, I had to let everything out, have a good Holiday and thank you. Chuck <I would ruminate a bit re your added sumps/refugiums option here for now... You could do a bunch with this with your existing tank and gear... Bob Fenner> What is going on in my tank? 12/26/05 Hello
Crew, Hope you are all well, glad to see the wealth of information is
still growing. I would very much like some help with regard to my reef
aquarium. A run down on the set-up first. 300 gallon all glass 72x30x30
3 x 250 watt 14k, 2 x 140 watt actinics, 2 x 58 watt actinics, halides
less than 6 months old turnover 25,000 lph plenty of laminar flow and
turbulence pH night day 8.0-8.2 a bit low <Not a problem here> I
know Kalkwasser dripped nightly AquaMedic calcium reactor ph 6.7
effluent 2 drops per second, reactor media currently ARM <Mmm, do
look around, try other media. This product is inferior> calcium
400ppm dKH 11 salinity 1.025 phosphate 0 with Deltec/Merck test kit
nitrite 0 nitrate 0, cant seem to get this to even a few ppm <No
worries... likely being rapidly taken up> skimmer Deltec ap850 ORP
360+ ozonizer 100mg delivered through skimmer strontium approx 9ppm
<Considerable> fish 14 small to yellow tang size corals around
25, sps 60%, LPS 40% water changes 15 gallons every 2 weeks Kent marine
4 stage RO filter TDS reads maximum of 3 Kent-marine organics resin
feeding 1 cube of Artemia daily <I would expand this menu> sps
corals top 1/2 of tank RowaPhos used continually in reactor live rock
around 150 kilos roughly 2 inch sand bed, fine sand Now the problem of
which I have been scratching my head for about 1 year over or since
set-up, so little hair left! Almost all corals are always pale, lack of
symbiotic algae I think, sps always seem pale with little polyp
extension, corals lack real growth, sps corals seem to never base down
properly receding from the base upwards, coralline algae seems to grow
to about 1 penny (1 cent) size and start to recede from the center.
There is just a real lack of vigour. I have a Stylophora which grows
more like a birds nest coral, very thin the upper branches show very
little polyp extension although the parts in the shade on the underside
seem nice and rich in colour and extend much more. I have a few
Lobophyllia corals which seem pale also. Something is amiss and I am
very baffled. Do I need some big water changes? <Mmm, as
a blitzkrieg approach/improvement this might "do it"... would
try switching the calcium reactor media to something
"softer", more uniform... e.g. Korallith if it was my
choice... first. Then purposefully bolstering alkalinity through
supplementation next... the Tropic Marin products would be my first
choices here> Is the tank too clinical? <Interesting...
Possibly> do I need to up feeding? apart from the low ph, the
parameters and maintenance seem a great recipe for success or Is the 0
nitrate a major factor?. Lost for ideas and after so long running out
of patience. <New cnidarians should introduce new endosymbiotic
algae possibilities... you might do well to offer a mixed feeding,
infusion of single-celled green algae (so-called foods are commercially
available) to help this along> I look forward to hearing from you
soon. best regards Lee <There are some other approaches,
possibilities... but am hesitant to suggest these for fear of confusing
the situation. Do try switching out the media... see if this bolsters
your alkalinity at all... and do write back in a month or so following.
Cheers, Bob Fenner> Stabilizing The Monster!...From Dean In Ireland - 12/22/05 Hi gang, you are guys are my new best friends. <<Hello! New friends always welcome!>> Been reading loads of Q&A's on your site. Thank you for all the information there, IT IS REALLY HELPING ME OUT! <<Ah, outstanding>> I do believe I have bitten off more than I can chew at this stage, but too late to turn back now! I have TWO (note: 2!!) 269.3US Gallon tanks or 1047.57litres (6FT x 3FT x 2FT x 2) a SERIOUS MONSTER! <<Ha, I do know what you mean! When I began installing my 375g a couple years back I had similar thoughts. But this will pass I assure you, and you'll soon be wondering how to/why you didn't get a bigger tank. <grin> >> First of all I am very new to this and am really just writing to introduce myself as I may be writing often if in doubt, and ask one or two questions that I was not able to clarify using the FAQ's! <<We'll look forward to your queries.>> I had no idea this was a full time job when I started this! <<LOL! Neither did my wife!>> Very complicated chemical balances and very expensive to maintain! <<Mmm...not so "complicated" really, it will begin to make sense...but expensive, yes, can be so...not a hobby for the stingy/faint of heart.>> OK, so this is the situation. I am not in the US, I'm in Ireland and just need some advice. <<ok>> I do regular water tests (Salifert test kits) and record all findings. Have been having some trouble with green algae and I think it's red algae (like a fine brown/red layer growing on the sand) <<Hmm, probably Cyanobacteria. Have a peek here and among the indices in blue at the top of the page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm >> I try and suck it up and lose a lot of sand at the same time, very frustrating. <<Try a smaller diameter hose. But really, if this is a new setup I would just leave all be and let things cycle. What you are experiencing is likely the natural algae progression of a new tank.>> We are very limited in our choice of stores, in fact there is only one guy in Ireland who sells marine fish and equipment as far as I've found. <Well now...that's gonna be limiting...>> He suggested increasing present levels: Salt to 1.025 from 1.022 PH. to 8.6 from 8.0 Alkalinity to 10.5 from 7.0 Calcium to 350-450ppm from 290 <<I am in agreement here with exception of the alkalinity. With the recommended calcium level I would prefer to see alkalinity kept to 8-9 dKH.>> Did as he recommended with Kalkwasser by night with drip feeder and some bicarb by day? <<I would skip the bicarb and use Kalkwasser for makeup water as well.>> # Nitrates, Nitrites, Ammonia, Phosphates are all 0 or very very low, so no worries there. # Salt is up to 1.025(Instant Ocean) <<Very good>> # PH still the same 8.0? <<Do try to get this up.>> # Alkalinity/Carbonate Hardness right off the scale more than 16dkh? <<Yikes! Back off the bicarb now and do a large water change.>> # Calcium even lower 245ppm (I have read the articles concerning Calcium and Alkalinity one goes up, and the other goes down, I UNDERSTAND NOW!) <<Not sure I follow/agree. But do some large water changes to get all back in balance and stick to the Kalkwasser only to increase pH/calcium. # Magnesium very low 600 (Trying to understand the relationship between Magnesium, Calcium and Alkalinity, still a bit confused but know that I have to raise the Magnesium to +-3 times the calcium to stabilize and I am presently looking for a Chemical Supply Store as I need large quantities. Your Magnesium in Seawater page was blank so not sure). <<Do some reading here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mgmarfaqs.htm The water changes should help with the magnesium, but if you find you still need to supplement I like the Seachem product.>> I have about eighty pounds of live rock and only about two dozen fish (mixture of tangs, wrasses, damsels, one eel, a beautiful tiger fish <<???...the only "tiger fish" that I am aware of is a brackish water species.>> and a cleaning crew of snails and hermits) Way more to come I know, and damsels have laid eggs recently. <<Neat!>> I would love to start with corals and anemones but I don't want to take the chance yet, get the water right first they say and the rest will look after itself! <<Mmm...do take your time/do proper research.>> I have sugar fine Aragonite sand and an eight foot sump under all of this. Recently discovered that my filtration system was inadequate and changed to a biological filter that is really taking it's time to grow! <<If you do go "reef", your research may show this will need to change.>> Top of the range protein skimmer and Rowa Phosphate Filter, two UV sterilizers and top of the range Metal Halide lights over each tank (3 x White Blue Bulbs, I think 10 000k in each) and two UV Bulbs <<I hope you mean 'Actinic'>> on each side. The white lights are on for 6 hours and the UV then for 12 hours (is this the wrong way around?) <<I prefer a 12 hour (or close to) light cycles for both FOWLR/fish only and reef tanks...more natural in my opinion. I would increase the halide lighting to 12 hours as well, and maybe extend the actinics an hour on each end for a dawn/dusk transition.>> Trying to change water 10% each week, but it's allot of water!!! <<Indeed...but necessary.>> All in all, just wanted to ask what I am doing wrong, as the algae has definitely slowed but not stopped and I have to get this water balance sorted. How do I get the alkalinity down safely so that I can increase the calcium? <<Water changes>> I will get Magnesium powder? Which one? What chemical symbol? I'm really not sure. Besides these small bottles are doing nothing for my pocket at the moment. <<Do look in the Seachem product ( http://www.seachem.com/products/product_pages/ReefAdvMagnesium.html), an excellent product that will help take out the guesswork.>> Sincerely, Dean Diplock Ireland P.S. Sorry for the essay! I know you guys are busy! <<No worries mate...cheers and happy holidays, EricR>> Rigging Skimmer, Among Other Problems 12/22/05 Bob, Anthony, you guys are like movie stars to me. I unknowingly bought an autographed copy of Reef Invertebrates, my personal favorite! Bob's Conscientious Marine Aquarist and Eric Borneman's book on corals are also incredibly useful to me, as well as the web site. Thank you. <AdamC the stunt double here today. Anthony and Bob do see these replies and will greatly appreciate your very kind words.> I wanted to get your opinion(s) on my tank's well being and in the process bounce a couple ideas off of you. My only saltwater reef tank is 29 gallons. I have two inches of oolitic aragonite as a substrate and about 30 pounds of live rock. The tank is three months old. I use one 20K 150W Coralife metal halide for lighting. I have a small hang-on filter where I use carbon and phos-pads. I also have two RIO 400 powerheads blowing diagonally across the surface and a Fluval 304 powerhead several inches below them for current. My protein skimmer is a Bak Pak 2 with a micro-bubble remover and a section for biological filter media. <All sounds great.> The tank is primarily dedicated to SPS corals. I built two shelves with the live rock like reef flats that have nearly a dozen small frags: Montipora capricornis, digitata and verrucosa (spelling?); pink and green Seriatopora; Turbinaria scroll coral; several Pocillipora and Stylophora species; Hydnophora; and, yes, one red Goniopora. <Wow! With good growth rates, these corals could easily turn your aquarium into a 29 gallon block of limestone in a few months! Seriously though, do beware of space limitations and aggressive interactions. Most of your corals are weaklings, except for the viciously aggressive Hydnophora.> I also have several small 2-3 inch clams and a thorny oyster (the T. croceas on the live rock with the SPS's). I feel guilty telling you I have T. gigas and T. derasa. My only softies are two nice Ricordea rocks (one pink, the other green), a small patch of green star polyps and a very small, bright green Sinularia. <More fast growers! I see a bigger tank in your future. Did you ask Santa?!?!? You will also have to be very diligent in maintaining calcium and alkalinity levels. I have often joked about actually being able to hear T. Derasa sucking calcium out of the water! HA!> My fish include a Conde's Fairy Wrasse, a tiny Salarias segmented and a Yasha Hase goby (paired with a Randall's pistol shrimp). My inverts include a Staghorn crab, a yellow boxer shrimp, a Pom-Pom crab and three Trapezia crabs living in the stonies. My algae eating crew includes five Nerites, five Nassarius, a red Fromia starfish, a tropical abalone and a blue Tuxedo urchin. <Nassarius and Fromia are decidedly NOT algae eaters. The Fromia may eat some as it grazes for other more meaty things.> My water parameters: NH4 0, N02 0, NO3 5-10 ppm, dKH 8-9 degrees, Ca 360 ppm, pH 8.2. Weekly 5 gallon water changes (Oregon tap water's 7.4 pH 1 degree dKH). Feeding frozen Cyclops-eeze, algae wafers. Not using R/O. Other than the giant clams becoming giants and the Goniopora eventually dying, can you predict any eminent disasters? <Everything sounds OK. Obviously, overcrowding will be an issue. As far as the red Goniopora... many have good success with these, and at one time, mine was one of the fastest growing corals I have ever had.> I have three things bothering me. I have green hair algae. Food for the inverts, fish, vegetable filter, etc; perhaps excess nutrients from inefficient skimming? <This could be, but this skimmer should be adequate for your tank. I would strongly suggest adding a few Astrea or Trochus snails or one or two Turbos. You may also want to check the PO4 of both the tank and your tap water. This can be a significant problem.> I read Anthony's article and my skimmer is a hang-on variety. The pump is submerged more than two inches, and the water level varies considerably (1/2" evaporates every other day). The pump pulls air through a tube, as well as water. I don't think it pulls as much air as when I bought it. The pump isn't clogged and no salt creep is blocking air passage. Do you think I could hook up an air pump to aid the skimmer's pump? Would that help? <I have significantly boosted the efficiency of these skimmers by dropping a wooden airstone into them. It may be worth a try.> Also my dKH is 8 and my Ca is 360 ppm. I use "Kent's Calcium Reactor," not a calcium reactor, nor Liquid Calcium (with calcium chloride). It's supposed to raise both simultaneously but doesn't. The numbers are stable but on the low end. Should I leave it as is? <If you want to raise both, you could simply use more of these products. I am not familiar with this specific product, but Kent's "Tech-C" as well as ESV's B-Ionic and Two Little Fishies "C-Balance" are all excellent two part additive systems that give excellent control over Ca and Alk.> Any suggestions on my set-up, equipment needs, compatibility issues, etc. You guys are my only trusted source of reference. Sorry about this email's length; I don't write you guys enough. Take care, Adam Michels <It sounds like you are generally on the right track. The only issue of concern is space and possibly PO4 from your tap water. Best regards! AdamC.> The tank is now running! Reef op. 12/21/05 Hi guys. After two and half years of planning I have finally bit the bullet and ordered my live rocks for my 175 gal. reef tank. I owe most of my success to you, the staff of WWM. For that I thank you from the bottom of my deep sand bed. Enough with the jokes and on with the questions. For this system I purchased 88lbs Fiji uncured rock, 70lbs of Tonga and 25lbs of branch rock. I had to do an all nighter to prepare the rock for the display. I put the DSB at the same time because it is easier than after all the rocks are in. I did the inspection, smell test, scrubbing decaying matter. All fun and games. The tank has now been running for 4 days and did the some tests to see if everything is in check. This is where it gets confusing. Starting with the pH, the Seatests brand gave me I think 8.2 but the color chart on the card given is to close to tell. It could be 7.5 or 8.2. <... if the rock is all that is in there now, this is not such an issue... but would check, correct after the LR is cured, before adding other life> For new sea water I use R.O. water that has been aerated (submersible pump) for 24h. I did not buffer the R.O. water because the Salt mix (Oceanic) should buffer it once mixed and aerated. The other parameter showed .2 mg/l for nitrate, 2ppm nitrite, 10 DKH alkalinity and 810 for Calcium. I am bit concerned about this amount. could this be bad reading? <Is, of a certainty> The Seatest kit asks to add the drops until the color changes from blue to yellow /green. Could this be related to the sugar size aragonite DSB releasing it's calcium? <To some extent, yes... but is highly unlikely actually higher than about 500 ppm or mg/l> Could it be related to the PH and buffer. Is the buffer too low? <No> Is this all related to the fact that the system hasn't cycled yet? <Hmm, ahhh, yes> Is there a need to lower the calcium? and how? <No... not a problem... will "solve" itself with time going by here...> Another concern is how the sand at the bottom gets pushed and formed into sand dunes in areas where the jet of some the outlet of the closed loop manifold. In addition the tank starts to cloud up. The pump running this manifold is pretty powerful: Dolphin Aqua Sea 3600. Do I need to dial it back or diffuse the ports further? <I would try the latter first> Is the pump too powerful? <Possibly> The main pump is a Amp Master 2100 hooked up to a manifold over the perimeter of the tank. I chose to run only the blue PC for lighting 4 hours a day. The other light are two 250w MH. Do this seem OK? <From here? Sure> I also want to allow the coralline to start growing as soon as possible. What do I need, strontium? <Mmm, no... decent pH, calcium, alkalinity... all covered on WWM> Also can add a detritivore kit at this time. <Wait a few weeks... till there's no nitrite...> I am going to be running a refugium with Chaeto can I add it at this time? <I'd wait> Thank you for all of your answers and expertise Sincerely Stephan <Patience my friend. Read, enjoy the anticipation for now. Bob Fenner> Re: Ironaquarist contest 12-12-05 You don't know how much help you have been Travis! I gave her your pointers, and pointed her towards the wetwebmedia website. The first thing she has done is decided to return her Chromis, so that she will have 6 fish. <A great start.> Then, since she plans to keep her corals, and read that wonderful article on pygmy angels, she has decided to find her coral beauty a new home (or get a 75 gallon used tank- whatever comes first). <Another great step forward.> I also bought her her own copy of CMA! At 37 bucks, it was not cheap, but every beginner *needs* that book. I have 12 different books and that is the one I return to time and time again. <That was a great thing you did. I wish more people would be that giving.> I realize that you guys are not there to solve disputes. The intention was to get seasoned voices to speak on issues we differ on, that way, both of us who are learners benefit from the voice of experience. That is what your site does, and all the FAQ crew do, give us the chance to research, learn, find out what we are doing wrong and fix it before our fish suffer. <I could not have typed it better myself!!!> Thanks for all your help <It was my pleasure.> Sweta Kannan <Travis> Reef tank problem 12/12/05 Hi Guys, I have heard you guys were great from my father, I have had a 20 Gal. reef tank for about 8 months, the tank has back pack wetdry/skimmer on it, as well as a refugium ( with miracle mud, and various types of macro algae), the lighting is the new model CoralLife PCs with the moonlights delivering a 130 watts to the tank. The tank has about 27 to 30 lbs. of live rock and a 3 to 1 inch sand bed depending on the area. My tank was perfect and I had it running at the max of is bioload, I believe? <You were way over the maximum load.>I had a small sailfin tang, 6-line wrasse, Fiji damsel, dwarf lion, yellow watchman goby, and a few hermit crabs, 5 astrea snails, 2 peppermint shrimps, one cleaner shrimp, and one coral banded shrimp, and two emerald crabs, and a queen conch. I also had 3 colonies of zoo's, purple rim Montipora, Montipora digita, a lot of Xenia, and a small leather. About a month ago I saw a very small hippo tang and against my better judgment i bought him and put him in my tank, I also added the refugium at the same time, he was fine for about a week then I noticed he had an outbreak of Ich, soon after fish starting dropping off, the sailfin was the worst and everyone told me to flush him, the lion died, yellow goby, hippo also perished. The sailfin ended up pulling through and is now completely healthy. once that was under control all my Xenia died ( I assume bacteria infection), this was a surprise because they were so healthy and were spreading like crazy. I tried to remove as much as possible, soon after my purple tip Anenome died <Another cause. Dead anemones in a tank that small will cause a wipeout. Anemones are not easy to keep to begin with yet alone in a overloaded 20.> the night after that all the zoos closed up and all the other corals bleached out. So my question is what might have caused this? Was it bio overload and the tank crashed? <Very much so!> Is there any chance that the bleached corals will come back to life?<Unlikely> And if so what can I do to help them? Is there any way the refugium and the miracle mud had anything to do with my disaster? <No, without it you wouldn't have gotten as far as you did.> The tank was always healthy and livestock did extremely well until now. Any advice on this would be great and I appreciate your time! <In a 20 gallon tank, four small fish would be about the max.> thank you, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Jason Joseph Odd Things, Very Odd Things (Occurring in my reef tank...) Hello guys. <Hi Ian. You got crewmember Lorenzo today.> I'm fairly new to the reefing hobby, but have found your web page and find it very useful! My setup is as follows: 20gal long and shallow tank. Red Sea Salt mix SG is @ 1.24 for the most part sometimes rising to 1.25 due to evaporation that I promptly replenish every morning. Crushed coral sandbed about 1-2 inch deep. 3 pieces of live rock aprox 6 lbs and 3 other rocks about 10lbs worth. I have SeaClone skimmer and AquaClear hang on the back filter with no nitrate colonizing media that I keep clean and house carbon and mechanical filtration and also from time to time certain sponges to remove unwanted nutrients, it also serves as flow that I can easily change by sliding it to another part on the back of the tank. I have a Hydor heater and digital thermometer that keeps the tank between 76.5 and 77.7 degrees. For lighting I've built my own hood housing 2 t12 20k 20w 24" bulbs and also 1 t8 24" actinic. I truly enjoy the color it creates and seems to be plenty 4 what I plan on having/putting in my tank. I have mushrooms that have already propagated itself by falling off and reattaching on another rock and also one by fission. It created 2 mouths and is splitting down the middle. Another mushroom is growing onto the stalk of which the other fell off. I also have a bubble coral, a frogspawn coral, some small zoanthid polyps, a feather duster, and some other zoanthids that are green and have long polyps. I have a sally lightfoot, a peppermint shrimp, 4 zebra snails, and a black brittlestar. As for fish I have a small sailfin tang that I plan on trading in once it gets too large for my tank, a 6 line wrasse, and a strawberry pseudo. I bought the tang from Petco [big mistake] it now has ich. It seems as though my peppermint shrimp has set up a station and keeps the tang rather clear of parasites other than on his rear and pectoral fins. The tang eats readily and seems otherwise fine. The other two fish haven't had symptoms yet. My water quality is as follows: ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate 10ppm or less alkalinity 5.5 and ph 8.1. The lights are on a timer and the actinic comes on earlier and stays on later to simulate somewhat of sunrise sunset. The corals open and extend everyday except for recently I've been having trouble with my frogspawn although it is near the shrimp station and believe it is getting irritated by the tang constantly swimming over for the cleaning services of the peppermint. My main concern is the green zoanthids with the long polyps. It seems as though they are curling towards the top and some will open and close even when it doesn't appear they r being disturbed. <They may be responding to food in the water column, or to the lighting, if it's changed recently.> Its never done this before and I've never changed the water flow at least in terms of strength while I have changed the direction from time to time. <"Direction" is certainly a significant change, though probably not a big deal.> I feed with DT's phyto and also have a large amount of copepods and unfortunately have some green flatworms hence the wrasse and strawberry. I do plan on attempting to keep a C. varians <The nudibranch? Bad idea. It'll starve, die, and in such a small tank, that could spell catastrophe.> and possibly a coral banded shrimp, but heard the shrimp is aggressive? <Yes, it certainly is. Your peppermint will probably not survive, nor your sally lightfoot> My main question is should I be concerned about my frogspawn or my zoanthids? <What about them? The shrimp won't really bother them other than stealing food, which is no big deal.> Also why isn't my skimmer getting much in the cup? <Because it's a piece of junk, with apologies for the bluntness.> Its very brown the stuff it does get just not much of it maybe half a cup every 2 weeks when I do a 20 percent water change. Any advice would be appreciated as it seems as though you folks are reef savvy as they get. I love the new hobby and have to admit its a little like being addicted to crack (or so I hear!). Thanks again! Ian <Cheers, and best of luck! Zo> Reefing question...daring anemones 12/5/05 OK, I've got a standard undrilled 55 gal setup running and I'm really unsure which direction I should go with it. I have about 60lbs Fiji LR (it was dry but has been in system with an activator for about three months) and a fair amount (another 10-15 lbs. of coral skeletons (decorations I was given, but I'd also love to get some green star polyps or what have you started on them)). I have a very healthy population of copepods, about 30 asst. snails (Turbos, Astrea, etc...), 15 Mexican red-leg hermits, 1-- Kenya tree coral group (3 stalks, 4", 3", and 1.5" tall), 1-- 4" purple Ricordea, some button polyps frags, some zoos frags, and another two 1.5" frag of I don't know what (they all came together from GARF as a credit and I haven't had time to ID these little guys...one looks kind of like a bluish-white Stolonifera and the other has some 2mm bluish, bubble-looking polyps???) and neon green/yellow coralline algae (kind of cool/unusual). I've read and re-read every article and post on your site, as well as many others, about reef setup and anemone keeping but I'm still torn about what type of system I want to set up. I really love anemone/clown fish systems, but also like reefs and most of what I've read says that for the most part they don't mix. <It's very sound advice, to NOT mix anemones into reef systems (especially sensitive small-polyps stony corals, but it CAN be done, and often is...> I'm also afraid of fishy losses, as my wife and I love gobies and blennies. <Good point. The mellow fish that just sort of sit around in the water column are those most often taken by anemones...> I'm really considering an algae blenny and scooter blenny <Please consider the scooter very carefully - this is not a blenny at all. Read about Mandarin fishes - same family.> and/or possibly a clown goby or two...Maybe a Banggai cardinal or some fire fish...Hmmm... If I do the anemone system I'm planning on two BTA <One is more than enough in a tank this size. They DO grow, and sometimes split, in captivity. Also, please insist on a captive-propagated BTA.> and 2 clowns...not sure on type yet, but would still wind up wanting some goby-type fish as well. <As long as you stick with the BTA (and AVOID carpets or other aggressive anemones) you'll probably be fine.> I'm planning on adding a refugium (downstream) <always a good addition> and maybe a calk reactor <probably not necessary unless you will have a great number of stony corals>. I have a 4" DSB (1/2 of which came from my previous 30gal system) on a 1" DIY plenum. I'm running a generic venturi PS fed by a Rio 600, <you could certainly benefit from skimmer upgrade!> (1) 250w 10000K Ushio MH (centered and raised about 10") <VERY nice, more than sufficient> (2) 65w CFL Super actinics (420x430) and DIY blue LED moon lights. I have a Mini-jet 900 and a Rio 800 at opposing sides for current. <Fine setup, but be sure to keep the RIO clean.> Return from sump is currently about 300gph, but I'm planning on upgrading to a 1/12 hp Little Giant pump that should give me about 600 <Just be dang sure your hang-on overflow can handle this. Probably not necessary, and an additional expense - including electricity. I'd upgrade the skimmer first!> and then using a SCUID (sp?). <SCWD> <These are very nifty> Ammonia, Nitrates, Nitrites all test 0, Temp is 75.5-76.8 F (using 300w Theo Hydor heater in sump), and salinity is 1.025. I have never done anemones and have only had a little experience with corals, and that mostly successful with easy stuff...(though I'll be danged if I have ever been able to get mushrooms to do anything for me!...though I've always had this type of lighting on my other systems...maybe too much for mushrooms?) <Yes, too much light for most mushrooms> Top off is with treated/aged tap water. I also use Kent Iodine and Essential Elements weekly and B-Ionic's Calcium and Alkalinity supplements every 2nd or 3rd day, as well as a weekly buffer make by Kent that I can't remember the name of right now. Nothing will be changing for at least a while because I'm still fighting with my discus tank, but I'd like some input to chew on. Any suggestions? Branon. <Sounds like you're on the right track to me. No reason to rush, especially into an anemone. Cheers, Zo> Live Rock?...Base Rock?...Self-Empowerment? - 12/03/05 Ok, Here is a real easy question for you. But seems impossible for me at the moment. <<Let's try to change that.>> I have about 50lbs (give or take a few) of "rock". I bought it at the LFS and some of it has the purple and pink coloring. <<Coralline algae...maybe some sponge material.>> There are also a few rocks with "things" growing on them. <<Ok>> Did I buy "live rock" or "base rock"? <<If the rock was held in a marine system (wet), then it is considered "live", whether it is meant to be used as "base" rock or not.>> How do I tell the difference? <<Hmm...as stated, base rock can also be live rock. What you may be referring to is when folks use dead/dry rock to build the base of a reef and then load "live" rock on top. Some also use live rock to build the base (recommended), which may display less obvious life upon it, and then use live rock with a greater obvious abundance of life (sometimes sold as "decorator" rock) to pack on the top. But rest assured, if the rock was kept wet, it is all "live", though there are varying degrees of quality based on where/how it was collected, how it was shipped/handled after collection, etc..>> I have tried to check out the FAQ's on curing because I read that this is necessary, but never really found a definite answer. <<Mmm, hard to believe, much info here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lrcurefaqs.htm and at the indices in blue. Do have another look and determine which method suits you best.>> The rock looked good and smelled good when I bought it. Was it cured already? <<If it has been at the LFS for some weeks (4-6) then likely yes.>> If not how do I "cure" it now? <<Read the FAQs>> It has been in my 55gal tank for about a month or more with fish and crabs. <<Then likely a moot point.>> I am pretty sure that the tank has gone through a full cycle because all my test strips are coming out the same color as the chart provided with the strips. <<Ok...but do invest in some better test kits. The test-strip kits are wildly variable/inaccurate, susceptible to environmental conditions (humidity), etc., and pretty much just there for the lazy.>> A week after I set up the tank (adding damsels, hermits, and "rock" at set up), none of the strips were very good. Now every thing seems fine. <<We can hope.>> The only filter I have is a "Whisper". <<Cleaned weekly I hope.>> I don't have a protein skimmer yet. <<I recommend you get one.>> Should I get one and how much should I spend on one. <<As Anthony is fond of saying...good things are seldom cheap and cheap things are seldom good...prepare to spend a C-note and more to outfit this tank with a quality skimmer. Have a look at AquaC, Euroreef, ASM, and others to find a size/style to suit your situation.>> Are UV filters necessary and easy to operate? <<Neither necessary nor desirable (for reef systems) in my opinion...and can be a maintenance nightmare.>> I have recently found your website and asked a couple of questions already. Your advice has been helpful but it's still a struggle. <<Will get easier with reading/research/asking questions.>> Besides the "rock" questions I am also baffled by the "mystery of the disappearing fish". I had a tomato clown. The other night I seen him "eyeing" the anemone (bubble tip w/purple tips). Now he is dead!! He kept his distance for about a week and a half. Did the anemone try to eat him? <<Doubtful. though does sometimes happen.>> I have two hermit crabs and one blue leg crab and about a dozen "red Mexican" crabs. Three of my damsels have disappeared. <<Hmm, I suspect you have introduced a predator with your recent addition of live rock (one reason to quarantine everything). Did this rock happen to come from the Atlantic?>> I saw the carcass of the yellow tail making a fine meal for one of the hermits. <<Just doing its "job".>> Are the crabs taking out the fish? <<Unless they are very large...not likely.>> Do I have a civil war going on here? <<Sounds a bit one-sided for a war...more like something is having a feast...or (more likely)...those test strips are lying to you and your water chemistry is not as it should be.>> This is what I have in my tank as of now.... 3 striped damsels, 1 neon blue damsel, <<Mmm...maybe no mystery after all...those striped damsels may just be "clearing" their territory of the other damsels (of which the clown fish is one too). Please do some research on these fishes re compatibility/aggression.>> and the above mentioned crabs and anemone. I started with damsel total and a Tomato clown. One damsel died of unknown reasons and the others are MIA. I had a small bout with Ich but with a 25% water change (about 13 gallons of distilled water replaced the saltwater) <<What?!! In your display tank?! And with an anemone at that! You need to do better research yourself my friend...you may be your tank's worse enemy at the moment.>> raising the temp to 80 degrees and using a medication recommended by the LFS. <<Medicating the display is not recommended.>> I seemed to have got over that hurdle (I hope). <<I hope you have restored salinity in the tank to that of natural seawater...>> Did I jump into this thing with both feet and no life jacket? <<Does sound if so...have you purchased any books on the subject? Researching "before" you act/buy (doesn't sound like it to me)?>> Is there hope? <<Certainly, but is up to you my friend. Spend a little time/money on this investment to read/learn what you are doing/doing wrong.>> <<I suggest more time than money at this point.>> Thanks again. I realize that you would rather have an octopus stuck to your forehead than read and answer questions like this but I am having a hard time and really do need the help. <<Not as hard as the time your fish are having... But understand, we are here to help you help yourself. You are the one who best knows your system/circumstances, we can only advise based on what we are told...and reacting to mistakes already made is really not the best way. Slow down for the moment, arm yourself/get your information up front by reading/researching beforehand and you and your wet pets will be the better for it.>> Thanks again and sorry for that migraine I just caused. ----saltwater newbies----- Mike and Teresa Yates <<No worries mates, EricR>> Maizehello... Long Time Webpage Reader First Time Question...
(Not Sure of What I Have!) 11/30/05 <Hello! John here, and
welcome.> I have just started a saltwater with about 35lbs live rock
(Fiji and "tong" something). <Tonga> I have six
damsels.. two 4 stripe, two 3 stripe, a yellow tail and a neon blue, a
tomato clown and a "Condy" anemone (purple tip). About a
dozen Mexican crabs, one blue leg crab (I think that is what it is) and
two hermit crabs. The tank has been up and running for about a month
now. I used a quick start formula to help with the initial cycle and as
of now all levels have been good. I did have a small bout with ICH and
lost a spotted damsel but everyone else seems to be doing fine. <You
didn't post the size of your tank, but I hope it is big enough to
be able to house this large number of aggressive fish. One month is
also a very short time to be stocking a tank with this many fish, and
certainly too soon to be adding an anemone. Anemones are quite touchy
creatures, and I'd encourage you to read through the anemone care
pages on Wetwebmedia so yours doesn't go the same way as so many
other new marine fishkeepers.> I have two questions...I seem to be
getting a lot of "material" accumulating on the sand floor.
What is this and can it be cleaned or should I even be concerned?
<Algae and diatom coverage of the sandbed is common in new tanks...
peruse the algae FAQs for more information. Employing an adequate
skimmer, and maintaining good water flow are all good first steps...
but time is the major healer for such symptoms in new tanks.> I was
told by someone that cleaner shrimp are really neat and the fish will
actually "line-up" to get "cleaned". <Cleaner
shrimp are wonderful creatures, in my opinion. I'm convinced that
mine is the most intelligent creature in the tank! For all-round
personality, I would choose the common skunk cleaner shrimp, Lysmata
amboinensis. There is much information on these on the site. Your fish
are unlikely to "line up", but this shrimp is likely to try
to clean fish.. and even your hand! Make sure your water parameters are
pristine before adding the shrimp. I would like to know what type of
shrimp would be best for a saltwater newbie like myself. I would
appreciate any and all advice you can give. thanks! <Advice... you
have a great resource here at your fingertips... continue to read up on
damsels, anemone care, reef systems in general... and most of all,
enjoy the hobby!> Mike and Teresa Yates <Best regards,
John> Re: Snail Death and now Broken Filter 11/29/05 Hi <Hello again, Glen.> I woke up this am and wow.. filter motor burned out.. <Bummer.> bought new filter but kept bio wheel... <Good move.> I did 3 water changes in a row about 20 gallons of the 30... a tiny bit ammonia left. Nitrites 0, and nitrates 10.. <A lot better than before.> hopefully that bio wheel keeps some of the beneficial bacteria in aquarium... Should I do anymore water changes tomorrow am.. or let it ride.. <Let it go for another 24 hours since you just performed these large changes and then try 25%.> Have a cleaner shrimp powder brown <A tang? I hope you know the potential size and space needs of this critter.> and clown in there.. all fish still doing ok. <Be sure to match make-up water chemistry as close to tank chemistry as possible so as not to "shock" the system.> Thanks glen <Adam J.> SW advice 11/22/05 Hi Guys, I have been checking in on this site now and then and I love it. You guys have helped out a few times before and thank you for that. The site has been very inspirational. I have been doing fw for years now, among other pets, and have thought about giving SW a shot. Being limited in space ( at most I can fit a 36" long tank ) a 20 gallon would probably most practical. Budget being tight, I have been looking for used tank packages. I have found one that looks good but I want second opinions on the deal. It would include all of the following for $200. I also want to know if I have to recycle the tank if I keep most or all of the original tank water. <A good idea to use/keep a good part of it> I also want to know the best way of transporting the live stock i.e. can they go in buckets with a lids on them as I have to transport them over a 4 hour car ride. <Is posted: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lrshippingfaqs.htm> 20 long tank live rock 6 purple mushrooms crabs peppermint, banded shrimps snails live sand 30 lbs live Tonga, Fiji rock 2 gobies, 2 damsels 100 gallon protein skimmer SeaClone hood, 50/50 - 20 watts biofilter 2-100watt heaters some other accessories, Thanks a lot, Eric <... reads like a good deal. Bob Fenner> New Tank- New Methodology 11/22/05 Hi <Hi there! Scott F. here today!> I currently have a 46gal bow front. We have a wet/dry (480GPH) 2 powerheads (330 GPH each). 30 pounds live rock and about 1/2" crush shell substrate. We have 2 Clowns, 1 Tennent Tang, <<What is a "Tennent tang? Marina>>>Acanthurus tennenti... RMF< 1 baby Niger, (tang & Niger are why bought larger tank) <Good...'Cause you know what my next line was gonna be...!> 2 BTA, Several Zebra & Nassarius snails, & Red-Legged hermit crabs. All doing great. Have a little bit of nitrate problem. It is always 20 - 40ppm unless I do large water change. (even before adding the BTA & Tang) We currently do 10-15% a week in water changes. After reading your website it is probably the stuff trapped in the substrate. <Also, the wet/dry is a major contributor to the nitrate accumulation. Although they excel at removing ammonia and nitrite, these filters are "victims of their own success", and cannot remove nitrate effectively. Yanking the bioballs is one way to fight this, among other things that you can do...> So we have just purchased a used 200 gal system (to make the Trigger & Tang happy). It is 61in long and 31in deep. It is coming with a Tunze filtration system kit with a pump of 650GPH, a Tunze protein skimmer, VHO lighting, UV Sterilizer, basically all the goodies. I am not familiar with the Tunze system and have a couple of questions. <Great equipment> Is 650GPH enough movement through the filter? The owner said that is all he used and he never had a problem. He says he was told that because no water is leaving the tank (this filter type sits on a tray at the back top of tank) that the pump size is sufficient. I would like your opinion. He never even had a powerhead in the unit. <Well, the flow through the filter is dictated by the components, and Tunze equipment is matched up pretty well. As far as overall circulation in the system, I don't believe that this is sufficient. I'd recommend a "reef-level" flow of a minimum of 10 times tank volume per hour.> Also a lot of different opinions on this website about DSB and what type of material to use. Can a DSB be created using crushed coral? <Not recommended, as this material tends to accumulate detritus very quickly, and may pack down too tightly, preventing good circulation within the substrate. Also, employment of so-called "sand-sifting" animals is problematic in such a coarse substrate.> How deep? Or is that trouble in the making? <Yep...Use a finer substrate if you want to go the DSB route.> Is Aragamax a good sand to go with? <Great stuff for a DSB> We are looking at using the Aragamax sand, but because we have never used sand as a substrate we are not sure on maintenance. We were planning 4 - 5" sand bed. Can we mix our existing crushed coral in, just to seed the sand? <Just a handful, IMO.> We have read the DSB article on the website and read a lot of FAQ's. I think sometimes there is way too much info on this site. Which I guess is a good thing. <Sometimes!> Will sand interfere with the filtration unit? <By "interfere", I presume that you need "get blown around"? Possibly...As far as some other problem- no- it should compliment your other filtration techniques (a position not shared by all hobbyists, however! Some people are very "anti-sand-bed", claiming that it is a long-term maintenance liability...)> The pump sits at the top of the tank and has a siphon hose that hangs down to pull water up from the bottom. Also will powerheads in the tank blow around the sand? I don't want constant dust storms in the tank. <Could be a problem; you'll need to set up the system first, see how the returns and flow are configured, then add your substrate, adjusting flow direction as needed.> Maintenance: With sand how often should we clean the tank and how deep into the sand bed should we go? <Just the first 1/" or so...Don't disturb the deeper layers, or you'll interfere with the very processes that you're trying to foster in a DSB.> Same question with crushed coral? <Just don't use it, okay? LOL> FYI: We plan on putting at least 150lbs of live rock in to cycle the system and will continue to add fully cured live rock into the tank after. <Good..> I look forward to hearing your opinion and hope my email wasn't too long. I know you all have answered almost these exact questions a million times. Thanks, Jeri <No problems, Jeri! Better to ask and do it right from the start! Best of luck to you! Regards, Scott F.> New tank setup question Bob's Way (Or, Someone Forgot to Put
out the Dog!) 11/22/05 Hi, I currently have a 46gal bow
front. We have a wet/dry (480GPH) 2 powerheads (330 GPH each). 30
pounds live rock and about 1/2" crush shell substrate. We have 2
clowns, 1 Tennent Tang, <Too small a system for...> 1 baby Niger,
<Ditto> (tang & Niger are why bought larger tank) <Would
wait on...> 2 BTA, Several zebra & Nassarius snails, & red
legged hermit crabs. All doing great. Have a little bit of nitrate
problem. It is always 20 - 40ppm unless I do large water change.
<Crowding, filtration type> (even before adding the BTA &
Tang) We currently do 10-15% a week in water changes. After reading
your website it is probably the stuff trapped in the substrate.
So we have just purchased a used 200 gal system (to make the trigger
& tang happy). It is 61in long and 31in deep. It is coming with a
Tunze filtration system kit with a pump of 650GPH, a Tunze protein
skimmer, VHO lighting, UV Sterilizer, basically all the goodies. I am
not familiar with the Tunze system and have a couple of questions.
<Wow... nice gear...> Is 650GPH enough movement through the
filter? <Mmm, can/could be> The owner said that is all he
used and he never had a problem. He says he was told that because no
water is leaving the tank (this filter type sits on a tray at the back
top of tank) that the pump size is sufficient. I would like your
opinion. He never even had a powerhead in the unit. <I would
add circulation> Also a lot of different opinions on this website
about DSB and what type of material to use. Can a DSB be created using
crushed coral? <Yes...> How deep? <A few to several inches...
I encourage you to "go back to a/the drawing board" and
consider incorporating your current wet-dry, and/or tank as a
refugium/sump... placing the DSB there> Or is that trouble in the
making? Is Aragamax a good sand to go with? <Can be used, though
there are better. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm>
We are looking at using the Aragamax sand, but because we have never
used sand as a substrate we are not sure on maintenance. We were
planning 4 - 5" sand bed. Can we mix our existing crushed coral
in, just to seed the sand? We have read the DSB article on the website
and read a lot of FAQ's. <Oh! Good> I think sometimes there
is way too much info on this site. <Mmm, not in my
opinion/experience... Folks should read "enough", make up
their own minds...> Which I guess is a good thing. Will sand
interfere with the filtration unit? <If too fine, low density,
yes... but unlikely> The pump sits at the top of the tank and has a
siphon hose that hangs down to pull water up from the bottom. Also will
powerheads in the tank blow around the sand? I don't want constant
dust storms in the tank. <Again, not likely> Maintenance: With
sand how often should we clean the tank and how deep into the sand bed
should we go? Same question with crushed coral? <Some like stirring
rather than vacuuming. Some folks use a purposeful screen/barrier... I
would "do half" the bed at any given interval... the other
half next time> FYI: We plan on putting at least 150lbs of live rock
in to cycle the system and will continue to add fully cured live rock
into the tank after. I look forward to hearing your opinion and hope my
email wasn't too long. I know you all have answered almost these
exact questions a million times. <<Well, THIS exact question
has now been answered exactly two times! <giggle>
Marina>> Thanks, Jeri
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