FAQs about Skimmer Operation/Maintenance
18
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Related Articles: Skimmers by Steven Pro, Protein Skimmer Impressions
By Steven Pro, Marine
Filtration, Mechanical, Physical & Chemical, and FAQs, Tiny Bubbles (not the Don Ho classic) and
Larger Ones & FAQs, Bubble Troubles 2,
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Neat, yuck!
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Uniquarium Skimmer Upgrade 05/31/08 I just wanted
to say thank you for the great advice. <<Were happy to
help>> I placed an AquaC Remora-Pro skimmer in my 100 gallon
FOWLR tank with awesome results. <<Ah!...excellent>> I have
a Clear for Life Uniquarium so it took some work to modify the rear of
the tank to accommodate the Mag-3 pump. (A coping saw and about 1 hour
of work) <<Very good>> I struggled with finding the best
skimmer that would fit in the space available for many months.
<<Sounds like your research paid off>> Please let your
readers know that if they own this particular aquarium that it is
possible to retro fit a much better protein skimmer to the rear of the
tank. <<You just did>> Again thanks for the great advice.
<<Always welcome. EricR>>
Skimmate Production - Is this amount sufficient?
05/30/2008 The picture below shows what the skimmer has removed
in 3 days. The skimmer is a ASM G-4 and it's running on a 120G
reef with 40 gal sump. With so much talk about skimmer performance
being based on amount of skimmate produced in a period of time, I
wanted you all to comment on this particular skimmer's
performance. I think it's doing a good job! <<Yes,
that's sufficient. The amount of skimmate will depend on
factors like how much you feed, the stocking level of the tank etc
etc>> Thanks, Steve <<Thanks for the questions Steve.
Regards, A Nixon>> |
Neat, yuck!
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Re: Skimmer Operation
5/27/2008 Rich,
I've read over your suggestions and I'm afraid I
don't quite follow. I'm looking at my skimmer, pump, and
user's manual, and can't help but think "What
venturi?" I was under the impression that the AquaC
skimmer's didn't need a venturi of any kind because of
the spray injection method they employ. As far as I can tell, the
EV-150 doesn't use any sort of additional air intake. The
newer EV-180's have an air valve, but I don't believe
there's any such mechanism utilized by the EV-150. <You
are correct and I was mistakenly thinking of a different
skimmer.> In my reading I have seen suggested that it's
possible for a skimmer, for various reasons, to stop functioning
efficiently for a period of time. Do you think it's likely to
be one of those cases that just needs some time to sit and sort
itself out, or is there something truly wrong with the skimmer?
<This is sometimes possible as skimmers break in over a few
days.> Perhaps a clogged or damaged injector? < As with any
type skimmer, long-term efficiency is tied to its cleanliness.
Although the spray induction injector does not require regular
maintenance, it can become clogged by a piece of coral, snail
shell, etc. If you notice a drastic reduction in skimming or
water flow for no apparent reason, check to see if an obstruction
has become lodged in the spray injector. Turn off the water pump,
unscrew the black inlet fitting, and simply remove the
obstruction. Once clear, you can thread the fitting back into the
top of the skimmer and turn the pump back on to resume normal
performance. However, you have thoroughly cleaned the unit and
the special design of the injector has large holes so it may just
need time. Also, this skimmer was rated for approximately a
300gph pump, the Mag 7 pump you are using is twice that and is
the new recommended pump and should be actually making more
bubbles because of the increased velocity thru the injector.>
Some aspect of the impromptu installation in the Rubbermaid bin
that was preventing efficient operation?<If the pump is
running wide open and the gate valve is open enough for the water
level inside the skimmer to be maintained just below the base of
the neck, and the injector is clean, then there is very little
else you can do but wait with this skimmer. I say this because
Aqua c says in their manual QUOTE: "Do not be surprised if
your skimmer requires a few days to begin skimming effectively.
Trace quantities of oils within the skimmer will initially
prevent foam from building properly. Even though the unit may not
be removing proteinaceous waste, it will vigorously oxygenate
your aquarium water and benefit the health of the system
immediately. After approximately one week your skimmer should be
functioning near maximum efficiency. In some cases, this period
may be reduced or extended." end Quote. What I noticed from
the pic was larger bubbles which usually indicates water flow too
slow and/or too much air. Which would cause turbulence and larger
air bubbles. Hence why the new EV Series have the adjustable air
ports). After reviewing the manual I also found this trouble
shooting guide... QUOTE"1. Skimmer isn't producing very
much foam A. Give the skimmer at least two full weeks of
continuous operation to reach its maximum potential. If the unit
still fails to produce foam, check the water pump for problems. A
faulty or underpowered pump will not drive the air-induction
injector properly, which will lead to low levels of foam
production. B. Check the water level inside the skimmer's
main chamber. An incorrect water level will prevent proper foam
production. Adjust the exit valve so that the interior water
level is near the top of the main chamber (fig. 5). C. AquaC
protein skimmers feature an intense air flow-thru rate, which
means that they are highly influenced by oils, fats, and other
chemicals dissolved in the aquarium water or air source. You will
notice a drastic, temporary reduction of foam production after
fish feedings or other events which introduce chemicals into the
water. Foam production should resume within several minutes to a
few hours, depending on the nature of the chemical disturbance.
This should not be any cause for concern since your high
performance skimmer will rapidly make up for any time lost due to
the disturbance. D. Wipe away any salt creep that might have
accumulated around the base of the foam tower. There is a very
thin air gap between the foam tower and skimmer box if this air
gap becomes clogged with salt build-up the skimmer will stop
foaming. Salt can be removed by dribbling hot water through the
gap and scraping it away with a piece of wire or plastic."
End Quote. Aqua C EV-150 Manual) HTH, a bit more than my last
response. Rich> Thanks again for any and all ideas, appreciate
the help and feedback! -Tyler As for the errors; I'm not
perfect, but at least it's readable! ;)
<LOL>
Re: Skimmer Operation
5/27/2008Rich, Thanks
again for the response. I spent the better part of the weekend
working on the new tank and have finished setting up the plumbing
and completed a leak/flow test. In a few days it should be ready
for saltwater, so I guess we'll just have to wait and see how
it runs. -Tyler <Do let us know. My friend has an EV-150 and
he said it took 2 days for it to foam, so now I am curious as I
use Beckett type skimmers that foam in minutes.
Rich>
Re: Skimmer
Operation - 6/3/08 Hey Rich, Got the system up
and running in its permanent home a couple of days ago, added
salt, got the SG to 1.026, and set the skimmer running. Well,
guess what I found this morning when I got up to head to work; a
tower of foam about halfway up the riser. I don't know if it
just needed a couple of days to run or if it's somehow
related to the mess I made adding sand last night. <Good to
hear it is working out!> Thanks a lot for all of your advice
on the matter...you'll probably be receiving an e-mail from
me the first time I get some skimmate out of it. When you do, be
sure to read it in your best excited school girl voice, as
I'll probably be bouncing around the apartment out of pure
joy. <Will do!> It's amazing how the simplest aspects
of this hobby can be so incredibly exciting. <Once your system
stabilizes and begins to mature and you start adding more and
more corals your excitement will be compounded! Now to start
reading up on all the WWM articles about Ozone and calcium
reactors! Cheers~Rich> -Tyler
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When Your Pump Hates Your Skimmer!
5/17/08 Hello WWM Crew-- <Joe.> Been reading your
fantastic site for a while, as well as every book I can find (the first
I found? The Conscientious Marine Aquarist). <Me too!> Thank you
all for the work you're sharing with the world. <Thank you, a
pleasure to help out.> Now my problem. I cleaned out my protein
skimmer (Remora Pro) a few days ago. While doing so, I removed the Rio
pump attached to it to check inside. Since then, I have not been able
to get the pump to stay attached to the skimmer consistently...it's
always loose. I've loosened & retightened the plastic rings
that hold it to the skimmer, but it just won't stay attached for
more than 5-6 hours at most. <Yikes!> Today, one of the rings was
missing when I found the pump dangling pointlessly. I'm sure
it's buried amid the rock somewhere in the back of the tank. I
still have the other plastic ring, but no matter how much I tighten the
ring with pliers, the pump only stays on until I plug the it back in.
Half a second after starting it up, and the pump is dangling by its
cord in the water. <Not good.> I've been messing with it for
the better part of an hour tonight, and I'm really not sure what
the course of action is for this sort of problem. Any ideas on getting
the pump to stay attached on the skimmer? <Hmmm, possibly a few
culprits here. First, do consider replacing the short length of tubing
used to connect the pump to the skimmer. A piece of appropriate inner
diameter vinyl will be fine. In time the supplied tubing will become
stretched out, offering little to no friction to make the pump stay
put. Also, the plastic ring, clip, may need replacing. My Remora now
uses zip ties due to the same issue. The zip ties are cheap to replace
and offer superior holding power in most situations due to the smaller
click increments when compared to the supplied plastic rings.> --Joe
T. <I hope this helps, Scott V.>
Re: Help with SPS- Question About Installing My New AquaC
Skimmer 05/08/08 Hey Eric, <<Hi Andy>> Sorry
to bug you yet again, but I have a follow up question. <<Not
a problemask away>> My AquaC EV-180 arrived today and I have
a question about it. <<Okay And dont misunderstand this as Im
more than happy to help but I know Jason and Steve of AquaC
personally, and I can assure you they are more than happy to assist
with ANY questions concerning their skimmers. And lets face it,
they are the subject-matter experts in this case [grin]>>
Currently, my Coralife Super Skimmer sits in my sump--which means
it is basically skimming water that it has already skimmed.
<<Mmm, to a degree maybe My Euro-Reef skimmer too sits in the
sumpin a skimmer chamber designed/located at one end. This chamber
receives the water from the gravity drains in the display tank and
is then picked-up by the submersible pumps feeding the skimmer.
With the return pump in the pump chamber situated at the opposite
end of the sump, positive water flow pulls the skimmed water away
from the skimmer thereby reducing the amount of reprocessed water.
I wont sit here and tell you that some already skimmed water doesnt
get reprocessedbut the success of these skimmers (assuming a
quality design and manufacture such as that offered Euro-Reef, and
of course your AquaC product) speaks for itself>> When I
install my EV-180, I was thinking of sitting in my sump but feeding
it directly from the tank by using a short, screened "U"
shaped piece of PVC that hangs on the back of my tank, connected to
a piece of flexible hosing that ultimately connects to the Mag 7
pump. The skimmed water would then dump into the sump. <<Hmm
Could be done but if what I am envisioning is accurate, this will
be less effective than letting your overflows simply feed surface
water to the skimmer chamber. Also... Skimmer operation and
efficiency will be effected if/when the screen on the U-tube
becomes clogged and water flow is reduced>> Someone on Reef
Central stated that they didn't think this would work. The
response was: "I could be wrong but putting a siphon tube into
your DT to feed the skimmer defeats the purpose of your overflow.
The overflow is supposed to skim-off the very top surface of the
tank's water (where all the organics will float to). This then
drains to the sump where the skimmer separates the organics (via
foam fractionation). If you have reasonable flow through your sump
your skimmer won't be re-skimming the same water. Yes some is
re-skimmed and some gets by the skimmer w/o having been skimmed but
by and large the system will work. Your siphon would be taking
water from below the surface and would presumably be missing most
of the organics." Is this guy right? <<Indeed he is. No
need to make the installation of your new skimmer any more
complex/difficult than necessary. Simply position the skimmer in
the sump near the outlets of the overflow drains, and install
according to Jasons and Steves recommendations as outlined in the
manual>> Thanks! <<Always welcome. Eric Russell>>
Re: Help with SPS- Question About Installing My New AquaC
Skimmer - 05/09/08 Thanks Eric. <<Welcome
Andy>> My problem is I have an old sump that does not have a
chamber for a skimmer. <<Oh?>> The first chamber is
bioballs, then to chemical filtration boxes, then to return outlet.
<<Ahhsounds like a wet/dry filter. Not the best for a reef
tank as you probably know>> Eventually I will remove the
bioballs and move the skimmer. <<Was just about to suggest
this In the interim I would just place the skimmer in the last
chamber (or wherever it fits)Ill bet you will still see an
improvement over the previous model. Regards, EricR>>
R2: Help With SPSQuestion About Installing My New AquaC
Skimmer - 05/10/08 Hey Eric, <<Hi Andy>> Oy!
What an adventure. <<Oh?!>> Perfect timing on the
delivery of my skimmer--I got home last night to find my Coralife
Super Skimmer had gone haywire, had overflowed the collection cup,
and was dumping foam into the return compartment of my
sump--nothing like getting my fish drunk on concentrated organics!
<<Mmmactually, this can happen with the best of skimmers
under the right conditions>> It took me 3 hours, a Dremel
tool to remove some acrylic flanges in the return chamber of the
sump (which I didn't take into account when measuring for
space) <<Ruh-roh>> to make room for the EV-180, the use
of a hacksaw blade (with my hands!) to remove another acrylic
flange (I didn't think using a Dremel tool to cut away a
submerged flange was the best idea for long-term health and
happiness), <<Indeed>> and trips to 2 Home Depots, but
I finally shoe-horned the skimmer and the pump in my sump, and the
skimmer was producing a nice amount of foam this morning and there
was already some skimmate in the collection cup.
<<Excellent>> What a nice piece of gear!
<<YesJason and Steve have done very well with the
design>> I am really happy with it and I can already tell
that it is going to be a huge improvement over the Coralifethe
difference in the volume/amount of foam produced alone is
incredible. <<An important aspect>> This weekend, I
intend to start the bio-ball removal process and will do 1/3 per
week so as not to shock the system. Actually, though, I noticed
that the Mag 7 pump gets pretty warm, <<Ah, wellif this is a
critical consideration you may want to upgrade to the cooler,
quieter, and longer running Eheim 1262. This pump will probably
over-drive the skimmer a bit which can increase its efficiencyjust
be sure to plumb a valve on the output side of the pump to temper
the flow if needed, if you go this route>> and the way I was
able to fit it in my sump worked out nicely because it keeps the
pump body out of the water--I was able to rest it on two baffles
with the intake pointing down. <<Mmmbut hopefully submerged
enough so fluctuating water levels dont cause any problems with the
skimmers performance (or damage to the pump)>> Unfortunately,
the skimmed water dumps in close proximity to the skimmer pump, so
I'm sure I'm getting some re-skimming. <<A small
concern herereally>> So, I think I really do need to get the
bio-balls out and move the pump to the first compartment.
<<Will be betteragreed>> Yes, I do have an old (20
years old, to be exact!) wet-dry filter. A Pisces 500--I can't
even find the company anymore. <<Many such have come and
gone>> At the time I bought it, it was top of the line. When
I got back into this hobby last year, I really thought the only
difference between a "wet-dry" filter and
"sump" was the presence of bio-balls. <<Hee-hee!
Not soa good (or bad) design can make all the difference. But even
so, a good workable sump (or refugium!) can be easily configured
from a plain simple aquarium and a few cleverly positioned baffles.
Or even with no baffles at all!>> Eventually, I will probably
end up replacing my current filter with an up-to-date sump, but I
hate to throw good money away if I can make my existing equipment
work. <<Nothing wrong with that>> Same with the
bio-balls--I know, and have read, that they are not the best for a
reef tank, but it is my understanding that this is because they are
so efficient that they tend to generate a lot of nitrates.
<<Yesand then cant process it any further like live rock/sand
does>> I am very diligent about monitoring water quality and
doing weekly water changes, and I have always had 0 nitrates so,
until I needed the space in my sump, I really felt that removing
them wasn't a good idea because I was getting efficient
filtration without the nitrates--as Scott V once told me "If
it's not broke . . . " <<Maybe so But do also
consider the possibilities if this tank was not having to deal with
the extra burden re>> Take care and thanks again (and again)
for all of your time/help. Andy <<Always happy to share. Eric
Russell>> |
Beckett
skimmer problems 4/7/08 Good morning, afternoon, or whatever time you
have ladies and gents. I only try to query this site as a last
resort after researching as much as is prudent before taking up
your time, as it is much appreciated. I have a Precision Marine
bullet skimmer that I just can't get to skim anymore and I am
pulling my hair out trying to get it to work. I've had the
unit for about a year now and it has worked great until recently.
<Mmmm... you may not actually have "much to skim"...
there are a few tests... the easiest being to use another (known
working) skimmer here... or move water to a system to test with
same, the present skimmer to another tank...> About 2 1/2
months ago after adding a new fish I added some API stress coat
to the water to help with the slime coat on a new flame angel.
the skimmer didn't work right ever since. <Yes... a usual
phenomenon...> It just sits there and boils the water in the
reaction chamber and makes a nasty brown layer at the top of the
water. after 2 months and a gazillion water changes to remove
whatever i put in there to cause this, it still didn't foam
or would foam for a very short period of time (15 min) and stop.
I removed the skimmer, cleaned it from top to bottom ( injector,
air lines skimmer body, everything). I called the manf. Precision
Marine and told them what was going on and they said there
shouldn't be any reason it won't work. agreed! <...
Mmm, am interested to know the RedOx reading here...> So after
6-7, 10%-15% water changes cleaning the skimmer top to bottom,
verifying the pump is working properly- it is, reading WWM
FAQ's I concluded that the system is at equilibrium and the
bio filter is keeping up with the load. Fish seem happy, corals
seem OK, not happy just OK. fine! <Likely so> Now 2 weeks
ago I add another fish from quarantine, a tang that eats
voraciously every scrap of food that it can get, the bio load
must go up accordingly, therefore there should be something there
to skim. <Mmm, not necessarily. Could be the micro-biota in
the same are having an influence here> After a week in the
tank I am doing some maintenance and feeding the frogspawn and
mushrooms some chopped up scallops the skimmer starts working and
boy did it start working. OK great skimmer works now, fantastic!
<Ahh!> 3 days later I change the micron bags in the sump( I
use them to catch bubbles from the skimmer and to keep noise down
from the overflow water entering the sump. These bags are changed
weekly, hosed off, soaked in bleach, then the stress coat
<This also will stall skimming> dechlorinator for 24 hrs,
and dried out for next week) and add some top off water that I
had buffered with Seachem reef buffer. Turned everything back on-
skimmer hasn't worked since! I know that some buffers will
cause skimmers to stop temporarily but a week, or 2 months ? Is
it a bad batch of buffer that causes this ? <Mmm, no> Is it
the stress coat dechlorinator or this combined with the buffer?
<The first by itself and the "aging" of your
system... Not the buffer> I have been cleaning the bags like
this for almost a year now but I think i used the Kordon brand
before. I have been using the Seachem products for almost as
long. I buffer the top off water with the reef buffer or some
times magnesium or reef builder from Seachem. The reef buffer is
a newer bottle but the skimmer hasn't worked in so long I
can't remember when I started using what . Any ideas? If its
the buffer is there any way to counter act this. I did a bunch of
water changes before and that did nothing. Here are the tank
parameters if this helps. salinity 1.024 hardness 10dkh Ca 400 Ph
8.1 to 8.2 ammonia .25 (ouch!) this is my main concern with the
skimmer nitrate an nitrite 0 Tank is a 75 g. with 100# + of live
rock and 100# of sand residents include a Yellow Tang, Tomato
Clown, Fairy Wrasse, Royal Gramma, and a Flame Angel a Frogspawn
a bunch of Mushrooms a Leather Coral <Could be a bunch of
terpenoid activity from...> a pulsing Xenia and now some BGA I
see as becoming a problem Any help or ideas would be greatly
appreciated. the residents seem unaffected by the ammonia for now
but they won't be for long I fear. Thank you very much for
any insight, I look forward to your response John P. <I might
test as suggested above... otherwise, I would not be concerned.
Cheers, BobF>
Re:
Beckett skimmer problems 4/7/08 Thank you Mr. Fenner for your response.
You seem inclined to believe it is the stress coat dechlorinator
causing the skimmer problems. <At least partly, yes> Is
there a better product you would recommend to dechlorinate the
filter bags or should I just spay them off with tap water and let
them dry? <Yes... I would buy, mix up and store (in small...
quantities... a few months use at a time), simple sodium
thiosulfate (hyposulfite)... can be gotten through photo
outlets... one pound to a gallon or so clean freshwater... This
is the old DeChlor product...> I did some reading about RedOx
in Mr. Calfo's book Reef Invertebrates and Mr. Sprung's
reef books and that points to weak water flow and low gas
turnover as well as low oxygen levels if I am correct? <In
part, yes... there is much more> I am using an Iwaki MD55RLT
return pump into a manifold in the tank so I think flow is pretty
good ( I'm guessing 800-900 gph after head loss). The skimmer
is fed air through a 3/8 inch tubing that runs to the outside
because of some cabinet refinishing I did a few weeks back so I
believe the tank is getting a good supply of fresh air if this
relates to RedOx in a positive manner. I don't have any way
to test RedOx so I try to rely on good husbandry. I have had a
consistently low PH problem <This is indicative...> since I
have had this system and dose Kalk daily <... am not a
fan...> to keep PH elevated <... doesn't really do
this...> and my Ca. and Alk seem fairly balanced. You
mentioned terpenoid activity is this referring to the corals
reacting to one another? <Can but there is a larger/separate
issue of Alcyoniid production, its effects...> the leather and
the frogspawn sit in opposite sides of the tank with the
mushrooms about 8 inches from the frogspawn and the Xenia about
the same from the leather. <The leathers activity goes all
through the system water... almost instantaneously> I'm
just concerned about the rising ammonia level, I've had 0
ammonia since the rock has cured. One would think if there is
ammonia then there should be something to skim. <Ah, no...>
if the system is in equilibrium then so be it - something to be
thankful for. Thanks so much for you response, much appreciated.
John P <Unfortunately... there are too many "if this,
then that" stmt.s to be made here... Are you
"into" chemistry, physics... part. as they relate to
biology? Got some time? BobF>
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Lack of
skimmate from protein skimmer 4/7/08 How is everyone today, <Getting by.>
I have noticed that you suggest that a cup a day of dark skimmate
from your skimmer should be had, but I have a difficult time
getting three cups per week, and it is not all that dark. <Not
necessarily a big deal if water quality is ok and algae is under
control.> I am currently using a Coralife Super Skimmer 125 on
my 75 gallon mainly reef tank set inside a 30 gallon refugium.
The only fish I have are 1 Maroon Clown and 1 Lawnmower Blenny. I
also have two Cleaner Shrimp, a Sally Lightfoot an Emerald Crab,
about a dozen Hermit Crabs and a couple of Snails. The coral is a
wide variety of Leather and Sps corals. Should I expect more from
my skimmer or with the load I have in my tank is what I am
getting sufficient. <I would guess that the skimmer is doing
ok, how does your tank look?> Thanks in advance, Shawn
<Welcome> <Chris>
Re: Lack
of skimmate from protein skimmer. 4/7/08 Hello again Chris, <Hi> My tank
looks great. The only problem I am having is with algae growth on
the front glass. It has to be cleaned 2 to 3 times a week.
<That's pretty normal to be honest.> I also do 15%
water changes every other week. Perhaps my algae growth is do to
the fact I recently went to a six light T-5 HO system. I did
reduce the daylight cycle from 12 to 10. Perhaps I will drop it
down some more and see what that does. <I would not really
worry about it, algae will always try to colonize
"virgin" territory, aka your front glass.> My
phosphates read 0 so I don't think that is a problem.
<Good> Thanks again for your help, Shawn <Sounds like
your nutrient control methods, including the skimmer, are doing
fine and I would not worry too much about the skimmer
production.> <Chris>
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Coralife Super Skimmer Flooding On To
Floor! 03/22/08 Dear Crew, <<Morning, Andy>> I was
hoping you may have heard of a solution for my problem (other
than "buy a AquaC or EuroReef" ;-) ). <<Mmmbut is
good advice [grin]>> I have a Coralife Super Skimmer that
actually does a pretty good job at collecting dark green skimmate
daily. However, one thing about this skimmer that I absolutely
HATE is that it is prone to spontaneously go nuts and overflow
the collection cup, with water all over my floor. <<I would
hate that too>> There is no rhyme or reason to this. It
will operate great for months and then one day I will come home
to find 4 gallons of water on my floor. <<Yeeikes!
Troublesome indeed!>>>> Tuesday night, I thoroughly
cleaned every part of my skimmer. It worked great until last
night, when my wife says "Why is there water all over the
floor?" <<Uh-oh>> I searched WWM and found a
post from someone that had the same problem, and Crew directed
that he contact the manufacturer. So, I did this but haven't
heard back yet. <<Likely of little help in this situation,
as you explain it>> I'm sure I will hear "refer to
page X of the manual. Make sure the bubble diffuser isn't
clogged, blah blah blah." <<Yesor something even less
useful>> I know that additives can impact the operation of
this skimmer, <<Indeedespecially caustic elements
(Kalkwasser) that cause saponification of fatty Esters in the
water. And though this can/will increase a skimmers
efficiency/skimmate output, it ordinarily wont cause it to flood
4-gallons of water on to the floor. On the other hand, some
liquid coral foods contain so much of these fatty components and
the like that ANY skimmer will go nuts for a time.>> but
the only thing I add to my system other than top-off water is ESV
B-Ionic 2-part calcium buffer. <<Hmmwouldnt think this to
be the problem here>> I have checked everything, so I know
it's this skimmer and not me or the other elements of my
system. I was hoping that the Crew might have gotten some updated
information about this skimmer in respect of this problem. Maybe
it just is the skimmer design and my only real solution is to
bite the bullet and get an AquaC. <<I think it is as you
have statedthat the design and engineering of the skimmer are
likely the problem here. The best skimmers in the world can flood
under the right circumstancesbut a quality product of good design
wouldnt be giving you the headaches you seem to be
experiencingbased on the information you have provided. Aside
from replacing the skimmeryou could try setting it to produce a
less-wet skimmate which may reduce its potential for accidents.
Another option would be to live with the skimmers quirks and
modify the skimmer cup for the addition of a drain line to a
larger container, if feasible>> Thanks for any
input/thoughts. Andy <<Not sure Ive done any more than
maybe confirm what you already knew [grin]. Regards,
EricR>>
Re: Coralife Super Skimmer Flooding On To
Floor! - 03/23/08 As I expected, Eric. Darn!! <<Ah
yesfigured you already knew>> Attaching an outlet hose to
the collection cup wouldn't work here. When this thing goes
crazy, it GOES crazy--if I didn't have a Tunze auto top-off
system running, it would drain my sump in no time. <<I
see>> Ironic that the top-off system actually contributes
to my wet floor issues here, although the alternative would be a
fried pump . . . <<Indeedbit of a Catch-22>> It's
funny--all the money I've spent on lighting, livestock,
etc.--I just bought 2 IceCap 250W MH ballasts to replace my stock
Odyssea ballasts. $281, but I hesitate spending that same amount
for a quality skimmer . . . Priorities, priorities.
<<Perhaps being more than just priority, its normal to try
to save a buck here and therethe trick (obviously) is learning
where to pinch those pennies. Its not always easy considering
manufacturers often outlandish claims and even those of
individuals trying to justify their own poor
judgment/choices>> Thanks again for your help. Andy
<<Happy to share. EricR>>
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Current Fission Skimmer Problems 3/12/08
Hi crew! Hope all is well with
everyone. <Hello James, it is, I wish the same to you!.> First
I'll give an overview of my setup. I have recently decided that I
wanted to try my hand at reef keeping. <Great!> I decided to use
a 36 gallon AGA corner tank that I have had empty for some time. The
tank has been up for about 3 months with about 50 pounds of live rock
from Lalo and some from Fiji. I have just recently gotten a test kit
and while my water parameters aren't perfect I think they are
acceptable for now. ( I should mention that I am using straight tap
water.) Salinity - 1.023, Ammonia - 0, Nitrite - 0, Nitrate - 0, PH -
8.2, Calcium is between 380-400, Phosphate - 0ppm to .25ppm, KH
12-13dKH. <Yes, I would work on raising the salinity to 1.026 and
lowering the KH a bit.> I am going through a brown algae bloom and
have been for about 2 weeks. Within the last few days I have started to
get some neon green slime algae? Not sure about that but I figure
it's normal. <This is a phase many new systems go through.>
As for equipment I have a Marineland 660 Powerhead for flow(170gph),
Marineland Penguin 200 BioWheel HOB for more flow(200gph) and it
doubles as a chamber for carbon, I use no filter cartridge with this.
Lighting is provided by Corallife Lunar Aqualight 130 Watt Power
Compact 1/2 03 true actinic and 1/2 10,000k. I plan to supplement this
with a 150 Watt Metal Halide Pendant. <OK> And finally my
problem. A Current Fission Skimmer rated for 110 gallons. It has been
running for a week now turned all the way down. It starts overflowing
the collection cup in seconds if it is turned up even slightly. At the
lowest setting it will overflow in less than two minutes. <Not
good.> To solve this I have ran a piece of airline tubing from the
collection cup back into the tank that continually siphons.
<Innovative solution!> It has actually started to collect a thick
slimy brown skimmate in the very bottom of the collection cup. This
unit comes with a sponge bubble diffuser that if left off the skimmer
will not overflow, <A telling sign.> however it covers the tank
with microbubbles so thick you cant see thru the tank clearly. I
thought of adding a sump and not using the diffuser but I have read
about a lot of cases where skimmers' in sumps still sent bubbles
into the main tank. <They can, but a sump gives you more bubble
fighting options via baffles.> I don't know if it matters but my
skimmer pump is approximately 10 inches underwater and has a flow rate
of 300gph. The return is approximately 2-3 inches underwater.
<Sounds fine.> The skimmer seems to do very well without the
bubble diffuser, but you cannot see the tank. Did I buy a bad skimmer?
<It sounds like a restricted diffuser causing the level in the
skimmer to rise too high. Do check the diffuser and make sure all is
unrestricted and clean through the unit. Otherwise I would contact the
manufacturer regarding this problem.> I would have thought the
skimmer should have broken in by now. I have pictures but they are all
a few megs in size even when saved as a jpeg or bmp. <They are not
necessary in this case.> Thanks for any input! You guys do a great
job! <Welcome James, thank you!> Sincerely, James Mercer
<Regards, Scott V.>
Skimmer suddenly runs clear.
Skimmer Trouble
3/10/08 Hi Folks!
<Hello.> As always, thanks for your fine site and all of your
help. <Very welcome, thank you.> We have a 75g reef with a 20g
Eco-Systems refugium. System has been up and running for almost 2
years. Water parameters are as follows: Temp.: 77.5 f, SG: 1.026, Ph:
8.3, Ca: 425ppm, Mg: 1325, NO3: 5ppm, dKH: 6.7 <Keep an eye on the
KH, it is on the low end.> We test the water and perform a 15% (12g)
water change every week. When doing the water change we typically add
calcium & magnesium to the new water as it mixes to maintain the
levels above. Water parameters have remained very stable almost since
the very beginning. <Sounds good.> I have the skimmer adjusted so
that I need to clean the cup about every 5 days or so. The skimmate has
been appropriately dark & smelly. <OK> Suddenly, however, the
skimmer has started to run clear and fills the cup in about 1 minute!!
<Somethings amiss.> We have made no changes to our regimen
whatsoever. No new food or additives of any kind. <Anything else new
to the tank, decor, equipment?> At the present time, I'm letting
the skimmer run without the cup on in hopes that this symptom will work
itself out. But I have no idea what has caused this or how long it will
last. Any ideas? <If this has continued past an hour or two there is
likely something wrong with the skimmer itself. The two items to check
are the air intake (line, injector, venturi, whatever your particular
skimmer uses) and the pump impeller, especially on needle wheel
skimmers. Obstructions on either will cause the pump to push less air
and more water into your skimmer, potentially causing the overflow.
Also double check your skimmer adjustments to make sure nothing was
inadvertently bumped. Something has changed, it is just a process of
elimination to figure out what.> Thanks in advance! Jan & Ellen
<Welcome, I hope this helps, Scott V.>
Running Protein Skimmer Outside Sump
2/28/08 Hello
<Hello.> I have a new 65 gallon reef ready all glass set up. I
also have a 11.5 gallon refugium. <Great! A refugium is a nice
addition to any tank.> My problem is that my skimmer is too wide to
fit into the compartments... how can I plumb the skimmer outside the
refugium or use a container to place it into? I have a 38 gal reef set
up I am moving to the new 65 gallon. Thanks <As far as externally
plumbing the skimmer, it will depend on which skimmer you have. Some
simply cannot be run like this. You can easily get a container (tank,
plastic bin, 5 gal bucket if it will fit into it) to run it in. You
will need to have your overflow feeding the skimmer container and then
have the container overflow into the rest of your sump/refugium system
via a bulkhead (Uniseals are nice if you use the 5 gal bucket) and PVC.
There are many ways to do this, all different for each situation. It
all just requires a little innovation. Good luck, Scott V.>
Re: Running Protein Skimmer Outside Sump
2/29/08 Okay the
skimmer type is a aquatic life support systems by optimum aquarium mtg.
already has a place for the inlet to screw into and a outlet. <I am
not familiar with this particular skimmer. You may be able to
externally plumb it if the skimmer is a quality recirculation model
(does not leak). If you have questions about its suitability to run
externally I would contact the manufacturer.> Not sure what a
Uniseal is? can you explain? <It is a flexible bulkhead; more
accurately a pipe grommet. They are handy for running pipe through
irregular or round shapes such as a bucket. A simple Google search will
show you exactly what they are.> I read I should cut two holes in
the return pipe in the overflow.. is this correct? <You mean your
sump return line? You can drill two small (1/8 or so) holes just below
the waterline to act as a siphon break in the event of a power outage.
> Thanks <Welcome, Scott V.>
Skimmer
Operation Question 2/24/08 I have some questions about my sump setup for
my reef tank as I don't think it is set up properly to allow
optimum performance for my skimmer as it does not produce very
much skimmate. <OK> We paid someone to setup our system for
us as we have little knowledge about these things. However, I
have been doing a lot of reading on your site and in the
skimmer's manual and this has raised many questions.
Unfortunately the manual does not advise on the best placement
for setup, probably because so many systems are different, but
does give instructions on placement of the components. We have a
Corallife Super Skimmer that has a venturi air system with a
needle-wheel pump that is mounted as a hang-on system. The only
thing I see that differs from the manual setup is that the output
line that goes into the bubble diffuser cup overflows into the
tank with about a 6 inch waterfall drop as opposed to being set
into the water to allow only a .25 overflow drop per the manual.
<This alone can have a decided impact on skimmer performance.
The pump is designed to have water level higher up in relation to
the skimmer. By making it pump the extra 5+ you are taking away
from the pumps ability to feed the skimmer water and air, quite
likely significantly.> I've read on your site, and I quote
Anthony, "Proteins accumulate in the very top most layer of
water (like sea foam on the sea). Our goal is to skim (via
overflow) and concentrate them for handling by a skimmer. Ideally
this means that they should overflow or be carried raw into the
skimmer feed/pump If instead we allow them to crash into a
primary vessel (chamber one) before overflowing to a
secondary chamber with the skimmer (number two) then the
proteinaceous matter can migrate to the surface of chamber one
and get partly bypassed. Essentially... we are looking for a
direct path of raw overflowing water to the skimmer."
<All this is very true and can drastically affect skimmer
performance.> I do believe that my setup is exactly what
Anthony is saying that we should not do. It is very difficult to
get a good picture of my setup so I have attached a crude drawing
that I did. <It gets the point across!> I am thinking that
the skimmer should be in the chamber after the first intake
chamber. <Or the first chamber if it will fit, at least the
feed pump.> I am also thinking that since the proteins
accumulate in the top layer of water, the chiller pump along with
the waterfall from the diffuser box may be mixing the water too
much for the skimmer to get the proteins out of the water. <It
will dilute the compounds, making each pass through the skimmer
less efficient. This mixing is going to happen on its way through
the overflow lines anyhow. Mr. Calfos statement above is alluding
to the option of feeding overflow water directly into the skimmer
or having the overflow water as close to the skimmer intake as
possible to minimize the bypass of the raw water. This goes in
conjunction with the overflow providing a true surface skimming,
something that not all overflow designs do.> What do you
think? Is my setup fine and am I over-analyzing this or should I
make some changes? <The changes mentioned above will certainly
help; you must run this skimmer in the chambers with a higher
water level to have a chance for any of the other factors come
into play.> The bottom line is: my skimmer does not produce
much output and I believe that I have it adjusted correctly.
Also, are both my chiller and UV sterilizer working to their best
efficiency with have both the input/output lines so close to each
other? <No, they are not. You will be recirculation the same
water in the chiller and UV doing this. I would try to plumb them
to run off your return pump and into your display if you can. Do
pay attention to the manufacturers recommended flow rates through
each unit if you do so.> Should they be in separate chambers
of the sump or would that be detrimental to my skimmer operation?
<However you end up situating them, I would try to plumb their
intakes/outputs after the skimmer.> Thank you for any comments
or advice you can provide. Deb <Welcome, good luck, Scott
V.>
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AquaC EV240 Producing Microbubbles 2/16/08
Hello Gents - and thanks again
for the fantastic resource. If only we all followed all the advice you
give us! <Heeeand if gas were back to $1 a gallon!> Here's my
dilemma - I have a 150XH fish only tank with a large wet dry and a
Living Color coral insert. I run an Aqua C EV 240 on my reef and have
one for this tank as well. I installed a new wet dry this week. Problem
is that the skimmer is putting a tone of micro bubbles back into the
display. <Was it doing this before the new wet/dry? The same
manufacturing residues/oils that can cause a new skimmer to spit out
microbubbles are present in the new sump. You may just need some
time.> The sump is as follows - 40" long. From right to left,
the tank drains into a 26" area of bio balls. I dont have enough
room in the cabinet, so I use a submersible Mag9 as the return pump.
Due to the fact that the last area of the sump is the only
'open' area, its crowded. I have the Mag 9 tank return pump,
the Ev240 and the Mag 18 that feeds the 240. <According to the AquaC
website this pump overdrives this skimmer and may need to be throttled
down a bit. This could be playing a factor in bubble return.> The
skimmer water returns right to the area where the tank return pump is.
<Tough situation, even the slightest amount of bubbles will be
returned to the tank.> Unfortunately, I have VERY little space in
that open area so I'm hoping to solve this problem. Any ideas? I
can call Jason Kim on Monday as well. Thanks J <I would definitely
contact Jason Kim for his input. In the meantime, you may want to try
either some filter foam or filter sock types of materials between the
skimmer output and the return pump to help catch the bubbles. Welcome
and good luck, Scott V.>
Protein Skimmers And Water Turbulence
01-31/08 Hello,
<<Howdy>> Quick question. <<Okay>> I have an
AquaC Remora w/MJ 1200 and prefilter box on my tank. The skimmer is
able to produce a cup of dark skimmate a day. <<Excellent>>
I recently added two additional powerheads to my tank and the skimmer
stopped producing skimmate. <<Ahh>> I had noticed this in
the past when I readjusted the return outlet to change circulation
pattern. Is it possible that I am creating a circulation pattern that
does not allow the skimmer to take in raw DOCs? <<The evidence
would seem to bear this out>> I don't think it is just
filtering the same water over and over, but I can't be sure.
<<Likely what is happening is the sub-surface and surface
turbulence is reducing the concentration of DOCs at the surface of the
water, as well a channeling raw water away from the skimmer box, thus
reducing the efficiency of the skimmer. Some authors recommend not
directing pump outlets toward the surface of the water for this
reason>> I tried to check the site, but I couldn't find
anything about circulation affecting skimmers. <<There will be
one now [grin]>> Thank You, Sean <<Happy to share.
EricR>>
Protein Skimmer, op. 1/24/08
Hello all, <Hello.> First
time with a question on your site (which is great by the way, have
learned so much). <Excellent!> I have just set up my new 55 gal
FOWLR tank about 3 weeks ago. I have an AquaClear 110 power filter, two
AquaClear 30 powerheads, and a pro clear aquatics 75 protein skimmer.
There is about 25 lbs of aragonite sand and I just have about 5 lbs of
live rock just for something to look at for now (has been in there for
about half a week). <OK> My question is, my skimmer is not
collecting anything. My ammonia is about 0.5 still. Is this normal for
a new tank, or should it be collecting a lot of dark stuff? <It
should collect some, but with only 5lbs of rock and no fish at this
point (I hope), there is not much of a bioload. Raise the water level
higher in the skimmer if you can and give it some time. Also check the
airline and water intake for any obstructions.> Also, I have 130W PC
lighting that has been on from about 7am until 10pm (because I am at
work between then and have not put it on a timer yet), and the live
rock that I do have is a bit brown and white. <Yes, get the timer
and cut back to 10-12 hours a day.> There is still some light green
and maroon sports on it though. There is none of these colors anywhere
else in the tank though. Should I worry about this, or is my live rock
just doing what it is supposed to be doing? <It is going through the
normal curing/tank cycling process.> I also want to get more live
rock now and finish off the last 40 lbs or so. <The sooner the
better, your rock can cure together. Otherwise you will go through the
whole process again. Once you get more rock you should see some
skimmate out of your skimmer. If you dont, consider upgrading to an
AquaC, EuroReef or ASM.> Thanks so much for your help. You guys (and
gals) are great!!! Matthew Diethorn <Thank you for the kind words,
good luck, Scott V.>
Re: Protein Skimmer, op. 1/25/08
Thanks for getting back to me so
fast, but I just have one more thing. <No problem.> I got the
live rock from my LFS and it is said to be already cured. <Even if
it is truly cured, it can need to go through the process again to some
extent after moving to your tank.> I got home from work yesterday
(timer is now set up to run from noon till 10pm) and it is very brown,
even the white that I was talking about is turning brown and the color
that was on it is also turning brown. <Common with new tanks.>
There is no other brown stuff on the sand or glass at all.
<Good.> Should I be doing water changes without any bioload?
<I would. It will certainly lower your ammonia level, as well as any
nitrite/nitrate that may have accumulated thus far (have you tested for
these?). Also, starting water changes now starts good habits.> All I
do now is top off my evaporation. Also, my specific gravity is at about
1.029, a bit high I know. <Yes, lower to 1.025-1.026. Do be sure you
are topping off with freshwater.> I don't really know how soon I
can get more live rock. Is my lighting maybe a bit too bright?
(doubtful). <No.> I hope this is normal for cured live rock and
will turn for the better. <It will get better with proper
maintenance, i.e. water changes for now.> Thanks for anymore help
you can give me. Matthew Diethorn <Welcome. Good luck, Scott
V.>
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