FAQs on Bulb, Bubble Tip/Rose Anemone Health
Diagnosis
Related Articles:
Bubble Tip, Rose Anemones, Entacmaea quadricolor, Use in Marine Systems by Bob Fenner,
Bubble Tip Anemones by Jim Black,
Recent Experiences with BTA's by Marc Quattromani,
Anemones,
Cnidarians,
Colored/Dyed Anemones,
Related FAQs:
BTA Disease 1,
BTA Disease 2,
BTA Disease 3,
BTA Disease 4,
BTA Health 5,
BTA Health 6,
BTA Health 7,
BTA Health 8,
BTA Health 9,
BTA Health 10,
BTA Health 11,
BTA Health 13,
FAQs on BTA Disease by Category:
Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...),
Nutritional,
Social (e.g. Allelopathy),
Trauma,
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
Predatory/Pest,
Treatments
& E. quad. FAQ 1,
E. quad FAQ 2,
E. quad. FAQ 3,
E. quad FAQ 4,
E. quad FAQ 5,
BTA ID,
BTA Compatibility,
BTA Selection,
BTA Behavior,
BTA Systems,
BTA Feeding,
BTA Reproduction/Propagation,
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Not staying inflated, moving around, sometimes
splitting in two... and an open mouth are signs of a stressed anemone |
|
New Print and
eBook on Amazon:
Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
|
Bubble tip anemone Eating its tentacles
10/4/17
Hi team
<Matt>
Absolutely great site by the way. I have kept bubble tip anemones for a
few years now and I'm hoping you can help me with something that has me
completely stumped. The anemone (E. Quad) in question is in a 2 foot
cube
with a few other bubble tips
<All clones I trust>
and a pair of clowns and a mandarin (refugium). It is a few years old so
well established with stable reef
parameters. The only change in the last few months is i did a small
rescape just moving a few rocks and did not disturb the sand. All
anemones seem to be in perfect health except one which i have been
observing it place its
tentacles in it's mouth and sucking the ends out of the tentacles and
pulling long strings out of them this seems to happen frequently and now
the anemone although it expands well used the tentacle pattern is now
irregular and half of the anemone has short fat tentacles. It still eats
and is under high powered led it grew and thrived under. I'm not sure
what the cause is (possible bacterial infection) as the system is just
anemones and 3 fish so rules out chemical warfare. I cannot find an
answer anywhere and I'm extremely knowledgeable on this particular
anemone. It is literally chewing off the end of it's tentacles.
Thanks in advance
Matt
<Have seen this before. Sounds/reads like manifestation of "Old Tank
Syndrome". I would move the mal-affected BTA elsewhere, stat. Bob
Fenner>
Re: Bubble tip anemone Eating its tentacles
10/5/17
Hi Bob,
<Hey Matt>
Thank you for your response. If i could just pick your brain a bit more
and get a little more clarity on the issue.
<Sure>
Firstly have you observed/heard of this behavior of a bubbletip taking
it tentacles to it's mouth and extruding filaments which it seems to
digest?
<Yes I have... mesenterial filaments are about all the insides of an
anemone that there are>
If so what is the purpose of this?
<I consider it to be a pathological event. An indication that
something/s wrong>
Is there any benefit to the animal?
<I doubt it. Seems self-destructive>
The only thing that comes to mind is it's feeding of the Zooxanthellae
or rearranging the population or it's starving.
<An interesting speculation>
The next question is you say it may be old tank syndrome. What gave you
the impression?
<OTS is such a general expression... what could be the cause/s here?>
Rearranging the rock kicking up detritus?
<Perhaps a factor>
The reason I'm asking is to prevent any other anemones from declining. I
have heard people say "old tank syndrome" (By no means in regards to
your earlier response) when they can't pinpoint the root of a problem
and have come across different theories as to what old tank syndrome
means.
<I'm one of those folks. Have recently re-read my several hundred pound,
thousands of hobbyist magazines; including a later piece in AFI
(Aquarium Fish International) re OTS>
Anywhere from excess nutrients built up in rock and substrate leaching
back into the system to and imbalance of elements or bacterial
populations.
<Ah yes>
I am religious when it comes to water changes and this system get at
least 10% weekly and clarification on this will tell me the best way to
proceed and prevent healthy anemones remain that way for as long for
many more years to come.
<You are wise here; or should I state, that you and I's philosophies and
practices appear confluent>
Once again thank you for you time and knowledge.
Matt
<Glad to share. Thank you. Bob Fenner>
Re: Bubble tip anemone Eating its tentacles
10/5/17
Thanks Bob,
<Welcome Matt>
One last question In the cases you are aware of does the decline Spell
the end of the animal or can this be reversed and a healthy specimen or
is my anemone doomed no matter what i do.
Matt
<If memory serves, there are few incidences of survival>
Rainbow BTA not doing well after tangling with Bristleworm
5/1/17
I have a 29 gallon,
<Mmm; large Indo-Pacific Anemones need (much) more room than this... Too
unstable...>
with 165w full spectrum led, 8 month old tank with a RBTA, one clown,
one Firefish, one cleaner shrimp, one peppermint shrimp,
<Shrimps may be eaten by the Anemone in time; as well as the Firefish.>
frogspawn,
<Incompatible... too allelopathogenic w/ the Anemone>
a small maxima clam, scan,
<? Acan?>
pulse and Sinularia. Everything is doing well except the BTA.
<Losing; per the statements above>
One day about a month ago I woke up to find some bristles stuck in her.
She was deflated, disc shaped, I removed the bristles and hasn't
reinflated
since. She is getting smaller and eating less each day. We try to feed
her krill and shrimp but she isn't really interested.
<... how small are the pieces?>
Now she has moved about a half inch closer to the light and will react a
small amount when the lights are on.
Nitrates 0,
<.... sigh; all chemosynthetic life NEEDS some N, P, K...>
nitrites 0, ammonia 0, ph 8.4, temp 76.2. Is there anything I can do for
her?
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
and all the linked files above. You've set yourself up for failure here;
do educate yourself>
Thanks!
Jill
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
bleached anemones and lighting... Nine
megs of pix; photography-revelation
1/28/15
Hey guys, just wanted to send a quick note to you guys and thank you for
your website. I recently ran into an issue however and wanted to share
my experience. So first off some background about my tank.
125 gallon Reef Ready custom tank and stand with built in dual stand
overflow and a 50 gallon sump/refugium Orbital Current LED lighting with
Ramp controller Two Hydor Koralia power heads, a 3 and a 4 Reef octopus
XP3000 Skimmer PH 8.0Salinity 1.025Ammonia, nitrites, nitrate,
all 0 ppm
<Essential nutrient>
100lbs liverock various fish RBTA
I had just recently purchased a RBTA for my tank and when it arrived it
was very very small. Less than an inch across fully extended. After
doing the normal acclimation process for it and placing it in the
tank on the liverock. It chose a comfy spot about three inches from
where I placed it and settled in. It has been in my tank for about two
weeks now and has opened up and was showing great signs of health.
Eating well, lots of tentacle movement and extension, the whole bit. I
started to get worried when it seemed like it looked a little pale in my
tank. I wasn't sure how long it really looked that way maybe from the
moment I placed it in the tank. So I started doing research on bleached
anemones. Paid very close attention to pictures of what that looked
like, and asked advice from a few people on local reefing forums here in
my area. I worked myself into a frenzy over this idea that my anemone
was bleached and I needed to do something about it and keep vigilant
with feeding and other recommended steps to nurse it back to health. I
had taken a picture of the anemone and sent it to a few people and all
agreed that my anemone looked bleached and this was a critical time. The
first picture is what I sent, and received confirmation of a bleached
anemone diagnosis from several "experts". For more than three days I
wracked my brain over my bad luck. Including right up until an hour or
so before writing this note. Then it dawned on me...
The camera I had been using had the flash turned off from the last time
I used it. I turned it back on and took another picture of it with the
blue turned down to 10%. The second picture shows the actual anemones
coloration and overall health. The blue and white mix lighting each at
100% was playing games with my camera's color saturation and was skewing
my viewpoint of the anemone, and apparently everyone else's as well.
<Well; photography... is... about controlling light>
So there really never was anything wrong with my anemone at all. I
allowed myself to be fooled by the camera and my own eyes inability to
properly discern the anemones true coloration due to the over saturation
of certain wavelengths of light being emitted by the blue in my
lighting.
So long story short.... Lesson learned. Just thought I would pass this
information along and hope that it helps someone else to properly
diagnose whether an anemone is actually bleached or not. Never trust a
single picture and sometimes even your own eyes to give accurate
information. I see tons of pictures of bleached anemones online all the
time, now the
first question I will ask if I am ever trying to help is, was the flash
on your camera turned on when you took the picture? What percentage of
blue was your lighting set to when the picture was taken.
<You've "traded" (filtered, screened) one part (bandwidth) of visible
EMR for another...>
Have a great day... Keep up the good work with the site.
Steve McQueen
<Still bleached, but thanks for sharing. Bob Fenner> |
|
URGENT BTA not doing well... no useful data
9/25/11
Our green bubble tip anemone has taken a seemingly fast downward
turn. the last couple of days he has been 'pooping,' with
his mouth open and brown stuff coming out. We felt that he has
just been eating small amounts of whatever he could catch in the
tank.
<... this specimen is very close to being dead>
Last night and today, all of his tentacles are mostly retracted
and his mouth is open. He is very small right now and is
practically upside down. Also, there are white 'stringy'
bits waving around in the water flow -- this are mostly from his
digestive system, but cannot tell for sure that that is the case
fro all of them.
He is however still holding on to the rock, and I do see brown
excrement near his mouth.
Please see the attached photos.
<Seen>
I am concerned for him, but need some advice on weather
<stormy inside> he is just unhappy at the moment or needs
to be removed. I don't want to remove him, if he has a chance
to be okay, but certainly don't want to poison my other
livestock. Sigh.
Unfortunately, I do not have a suitable quarantine for
invertebrates at the moment. I do have a bucket of saltwater and
power head standing by though.
Thank you for your help,
Guy
<What? Where's the boeuf Guy? You know, info. re the
system, tankmates, history... water quality tests results...
Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/BTADis10.htm
and work your way up through the other nine BTA Hlth FAQs
files... Bob Fenner>
|
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Anemone Question/BTA/Health 9/20/09
Hey, its me again lol
<James here with LOL.>
I have been looking through your anemone information but I am not
finding exactly what I am looking for. I picked up what was labeled as
a Bubble Tip Anemone, it was very healthy looking, had a good foot hold
in the sand in my LFS, all they have is sand, but I read that BTA like
rock. (I had been watching this particular anemone for about 3 weeks
before I bought it) I tossed him <in> the tank (not literally)
and he moved down under a rocky ledge and seemed fine. Later that night
he purged himself like I figured he/she/it would since it went from one
system to another. This is my question/concern.
It has not come back out of the rock work to sit facing disk up. I have
been peeking through the rock from the side of my tank and I noticed
that it is fully opened,(not stretched as if it were trying to get more
light) mouth closed tightly, tentacles are all inflated, really good
solid foot hold and from the look of it it looks really healthy but it
is vertical not horizontal.
<??? Should be vertical/upright.>
I moved a small piece of LR (which exposed more it's surface to
direct light) so my clown could get to it because she was trying to
basically squeeze through the rock work and I did not want her to hurt
herself and she has been in and out of it ever since.(Which is kind of
odd because it is a black false Perc and they are not known to host
BTA's,
<They can/will.>
but she also loves my pistol shrimp/goby combo so much that the shrimp
doesn't even see her as a threat anymore, he just does what he does
while she hovers above the burrow rubbing on the goby who also does not
seem bothered... strangest thing I've ever seen lol) All of my
parameters are perfect, salinity is a little high, 1.025.
<Not high.>
The anemone is 9-12 inches from the light and I have 145 watts of PWC
lighting <PC?> ( 2 separate lighting systems that equal 145)
which is stronger that the T5's the LFS has on their 55gal tank.(I
asked) I have always seen anemones disk up which makes sense due to
their lighting needs but mine seems perfectly happy to be vertical
instead of horizontal. <?> About 1/3 to 1/2 of the anemone is out
of the rock getting direct light. Is that normal anemone behavior?
<Give this anemone some time to adapt, light acclimation may come
into play here with your more intense lighting system.>
I know they tend to just do what they want to and will find their
comfort zone/s but I just assumed that it would be visible if it was
healthy also, it is not very sticky to the touch which I did not notice
until it opened up in my tank of course but I target fed it a few Mysis
on phytoplankton and it stuck to the tentacles well. Is this a bad
sign?
<No.>
I think I have covered everything...don't want to write an essay
lol.
<Give the anemone a little more time to "settle in". I
also would not feed until such time. Have you read here and linked
files above?
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm>
thanks again for your help
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Troubled bubble tip-
Bubble Tipped Anemone Lacking Light 4/29/08 Hi Crew,
<Yunachin here.> Hopefully you can give me some promising
information. I have a small bubble tip anemone that has been happy
in my tank for a little over a year. This past week, the ballast in
my light went out and I only have 36 watts on my tank until the
replacement gets here on Friday. In the past few days, it has begun
to detach itself from the rock and that seems a little worrisome.
Would this be in regards to the lack of light? <Yes. Anemones
will position themselves to get the best light or avoid too much
light.> I will have the new ballast and 72 watts back on by
Friday, but I wasn't sure if this is the problem, or something
else. I have attached a picture that shows the foot detachment from
the rock. It seems healthy otherwise, but if there is something I
can do to prevent any further stress, then I wanted to get ahead of
the game. <Everything looks good. I am sure when you replace the
light that everything will be back to normal. It may move a bit but
it looks healthy otherwise.> Thanks in advance for all the
help!! Thanks!!!!
<You're welcome. --Yunachin>
Rachael |
There is a Euphyllia to the right...
RMF |
Anemone Health and Systems -- 4/24/08 My BTA is
deflating in a very alarming way since Saturday morning. I
understand they can deflate to defecate but this is not it.
I've had the BTA for 3 months now and she has never acted this
way. She is deflating with mouth wide open. <This is not
good!> I can see her cavity empty. She is releasing a very thick
gel (no poo) She will remain like this for the next 3-4 hours and
come back to life. When she does, especially during night time, she
gets very enlarged (over inflated) tips bubbled up, not normal for
her. <It is not uncommon for this species to have bubbled tips
some times and not at other times.> The water parameters are PH
8.0-8.2, Ammonia 0, Nitrates 0, the hard Nitrates 0.5 (just fed 2
hrs ago) the KH 10. The GH text never works for me but today is the
schedule water change. There are a few factors to consider so I
need your help. First, I did a Blackout on 4/12 for 40 hours to
control algae bloom. <What is causing the algae bloom?> After
that my largest Clownfish changed behavior. He is the only
clownfish that was purchased at a store. He (or should I say She)
is projecting dominance towards my other clownfish. These acts of
dominance are staged on the anemone. Can the clownfish be roughing
up the BTA? <Yes.> Could she be repelling the fish? <It
looks to be starving and slightly bleached. What have you been
feeding?> On Friday I moved my small Hammer coral 5 inches down
from the BTA who sits in the top of a cave. The BTA did not show
any signs of harm or stress. See April 18 pic. <You have only
sent April 23 pictures.> On that day I also change the power
head that is pointed in the direction of the BTA (on 15min
intervals). It is a stronger power head than the last one. <Be
careful with powerheads. I don't recommend there use in a tank
with anemones. If your anemone starts to wander, which is a likely
event, it will be shredded.> Because she looked fine around 5pm,
I decided to meet with my clownfish breeder to get more fish. I had
4, one died and soon after the aggression began. <You will have
aggression with more than one pair of clownfish. Only one pair per
tank unless you have a system of a few hundred gallons or more.
Even with a few hundred gallons, there is no guarantee that the
clownfish will get along.> That Saturday night I also purchased
some frags a Xenia and a Frogspawn from the breeder. When I came
home to add the new species the BTA looked normal. I positioned the
Frogspawn 3 inches from the Hammer coral who immediately released
thin streaks of gel. <How did you acclimate?> It was late at
night and I didn't pay any attention to it and went to bed.
Next morning the corals look great but the anemone didn't.
After finding out the chemical war I probably initiated between the
two corals, I moved the Frogspawn to the other end of the tank.
Still, the BTA shriveled up and released gel the next day. Can the
corals be causing the problem? <They are not helping.> The
BTA is fed Mysis and little shrimps. <You may want to try small
portions of Silversides soaked in Selcon.> By accident we fed
the anemone 4 times last week (boyfriend forgot to check the
feeding calendar I keep on the fridge) I normally place the shrimp
on the tentacles next to the mouth and she picks it up if desired.
Apparently she desired all 4 times. <Is there anything stealing
its food?> To add to it...On Monday night my mother in-law got
me a Sebae Anemone. It is sitting in the opposite side of the tank,
attached and looking great. I don't know if my tank is big
enough to keep both. <It is not recommended to keep different
species of anemones in the same tank.> I will get a smaller tank
to keep it separate if needed. <This tank needs to be a well
established environment for an anemone. Six months to one year of
age is the recommendation.> I have a 120g tank that has been
running since Nov 07, skimmer, sump, 3 power heads and VHO light
system. <Your tank wasn't ready for an anemone. This is
adding to the problems. I recommend using Metal Halide Lighting or
some T-5 with individual reflectors on a tank of this depth. This
may be part of the anemones problem.> The BTA was added to the
tank 3 months ago Hammer Coral in tank for 3 weeks Neon green
Nephthea in tank for 1 month Frogspawn Coral and Xenia and a small
frag of Porites coral were added on Saturday night Sebae anemone,
blue hippo tang and new small frag of pink polyps were added Monday
night (gift from the in-laws). 7 Clownfish (one died before the
blackout) <Yikes! That is a lot of clownfish! Five of them need
to find new homes.> Yellow Tang Blue Hippo Tang Snowflake
Eel...don't ask :) <You really need to research your live
stock before you purchase and add to your system.> I added pics
from this morning changes 10am and 2pm. I will appreciate ANY
advice you can give specially in the landscaping area. <More
live rock would help. You don't have nearly enough for a 120
gallon system.> As you can see, it's very difficult for me
to plan the landscape based on species, temperament, light and
water flow. <This becomes easier in time with a lot of research.
More information on anemones found here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemsysfaqs.htm > Thank you
<You're welcome! Brenda> |
|
Re: E. quadricolor, BTA, Hiding, Acclimation -- 3/16/08 Hi
Brenda, <Hello Akila!> Thanks for your reply.
<You're welcome!> I add the baking soda just to
maintain the pH as mentioned in Dr. Bob Fenner's Marine
Aquarist book under maintaining pH (p.130). My pH is within the
safe limits I guess. <Just be careful not to add too much too
fast. Anemones do not do well with a sudden change. Add it
gradually.> And yes I use the Compact Florescent lights - CFL.
Each has 125W, 1250 Im, 6500K & 50/60 Hz. I have 4 lights
that totals up to 500W & 5000. This is being used on a tank
that is 27 inches deep, 37 inches long and 18 inches wide. Do you
think it is adequate??? <Yes, I believe it is, especially if
the anemone has enough rock that it can climb to higher levels if
it needs to.> I keep my temperature at 25C - 26C (78.8F) and
the salinity at 0.024. <Increase salinity to 1.026 gradually
by topping off daily with pre-mixed saltwater.> As I live in
Ceylon (Sri Lanka) I bought the anemone directly from a collector
and probably it was collected couple of days back. When I saw the
anemone it was in a small tank with starfish and the place was
pretty dark and the anemone was a little bit shrunken up. After
directly putting it to the tank, only a day later the anemone got
3 times bigger than it actually was. Is this a good sign or a bad
sign??? <Anemones will shrink to expel waste and to acclimate
themselves to their environment. If this is happening often, it
is a bad sign. However, since this anemone has only been in your
system a few days, I don't see reason to be alarmed.> And
I do not keep any corals except some dead ones. <Okay.>
Today half of the anemone came out but the other half was still
under the rock. The entire day it was like that. During the day
time the anemone got real big on the side that came out and the
tentacles were long and reaching upwards. But at night it again
went to hiding and also became 3 times smaller. Why is this
change in size??? Is it a sign of bad health??? Or bad
conditions??? Shall I take it out from there and close that hole
with some stones. <No.> Because I can't even feed the
anemone when its hiding as I can't reach its month opening.
<I don't recommend touching the mouth.> Is it possible
to keep some bits of shrimp meat on the tentacles. Is it possible
to feed it like that??? <You bet! This is the best way to feed
in my opinion. Hopefully the anemone is healthy enough to be able
to hold on to the food. If not, place food near the mouth,
without touching the anemone.> I'll get some pictures of
the anemone tomorrow and mail you. <Great!> I'll also
buy another pH test kit along with Calcium and Alkalinity kits
and send that data to you also if the kits are available at the
LFS. Thanks, Best regards. Akila <You're welcome!
Brenda>
Hi Brenda, <Hello Akila!> I have attached some pictures.
<It appears that you have two anemones! This would explain why
it went into hiding. Stress! Anemones do split in two when they
are stressed, resulting in two anemones. Collection is enough to
stress an anemone enough that it will clone itself. More
information here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonereprofaqs.htm
> I have another problem. I tested my water for dKH and
Calcium. I have 15 - 16dkh & 370 - 380mg/l. Can this be
right??? <It could be. What test kits are you using? Are you
adding anything for calcium and magnesium? For now, stop adding
additives. There is more information here regarding Calcium and
Alkalinity: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm > Best
regards, Akila <Brenda>
E. quadricolor, BTA, Hiding, Acclimation --
3/14/08 Dear Mr. Bob Fenner <Hello Akila, Brenda here this
time!> I have wrote to you a lot of times and you guys have
been a real help to me over the years. <Good to hear!> I
appreciate your advice with regards to what I am facing now. Some
details of my 80G tank would be, I have 1 large canister filter
(works as a refugium for me), 2 power filters (1500lph each),
protein skimmer, UV sterilizer 5W, Compact Florescent lighting
6500K - 400W, <Are you sure this is compact florescent
lighting?> & Chiller. My pH is 8.2-8.4(can't figure
out the exact color from the chart), Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0,
Nitrate <10. I do a 20% water change every month. <I
recommend 10% weekly.> I also add 4 - 5 teaspoons of baking
soda every month along with the water change to maintain my pH.
<Are you testing before adding this? Are you gradually adding
the baking soda?> I don't have fish in my tank at the
moment due to some problems with lifted temperature that finally
led me to buy a chiller. The tank is cycled and I ran it for 2
years with no problems. I currently have 3 tube worms, grape
macro algae (I forgot the name of the algae), and some sails.
After adding the BTA (Rose) 2 days ago it is hiding under a
cavity inside my rock work. It did not come out for a day. I read
a lot of FAQs on your site and learned that this could be normal
until it gets settled in but is there any other parameters or
something else I need to check. <Yes, what is your temperature
and salinity? How did you acclimate this anemone?> Do I need
to get any other equipment or something to make it feel more
comfortable? <Do you know any history on this anemone? Was it
recently shipped? What kind of lighting was it kept under
previously?> I don't understand why it is hiding inside a
rock. <I wouldn't be overly concerned just yet. This
anemone may be acclimating itself to its new environment. Placing
an anemone into a new environment is stressful. > Thought they
liked bright lighting??? <They do, but I'm not convinced
you have extremely powerful lighting.> Can the tube worms be a
problem??? <No. Do you have any coral in the tank? If so,
what?> Also how can I increase the calcium level in my tank. I
heard the tube worms like more calcium in the water??? <Your
LFS should have the additives you need. I do recommend
researching before you start adding chemicals. Here is a good
place to start: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >
Thanks in advance for your advice, Best regards, Akila
<You're welcome! Brenda>
|
|
Re: E. quadricolor 911 -- 1/04/08 I just
tested the tank on New Years Day. I use a master reef test kit.
<I don't recommend this test kit. I would go with a more
reliable product, such as Salifert. In the mean time, take a
water sample into a reputable LFS and have your water tested.>
My tank is 47 gallon. I started out in a 10 gallon tank and
upgraded to the new tank, having been up for about 7 months now.
I added the anemone in August and it came from Live Aquaria.
<Your tank was not ready for an anemone. It needs an
established environment, six months to one year, with one year
being best.> It was healthy looking when I got it and for a
while after. It has looked this way for close to 3 months. I use
compact lighting with a dual actinic and dual daylight. The bulbs
are about 7 months old, and I have ordered more. The water
parameters are: salinity 1.023, <Your salinity is too low.
Gradually bring up to 1.026 by using pre-mixed saltwater as your
top off water daily.> Nitrite 0.2, <Needs to be zero.>
ph 8.0, Nitrate 50, <Nitrates are much too high, needs to be
zero. I suggest a large water change and continue to monitor
daily.> Alkalinity is low (added reef buffer) <How low?>
ammonia is .25 <Much too high, a large water change should
help, but you need to get to the root of the problem.> and the
temp is 76. <Temperature is too low; gradually bring up to 79
-- 80.> I added 15 lbs of new rock on new years. <Was it
cured?> I also added phosphate control. <Why? What were
your phosphate levels? Where does your source water come from,
RO, RO/DI, or Tap?> I am still learning my tank, so it is very
possible I do not have something right. The size of silverside I
have been feeding it is about the size of a pencil eraser.
<That is too large of a piece for an anemone in this shape. Try feeding as small of a piece that you can tear off. Foods
soaked in Selcon may also help.> I did notice today that the
foot is spreading on the rock. I check it sometimes at night and
it looks the same as under the lights. I turn on the tank when I
get up in the mornings and off when I go to bed. I hope all this
information helps. Oh yea, his tank mates are a yellow tang,
<A 47 gallon tank is much too small for any tang.> maroon
clown, blue damsel (new) several snails and crabs, <I
don't recommend crabs, they can be predators.> and a new
Condy anemone. <Mixing species of anemones is dangerous and
likely deadly.> It lives on another rock across the tank. I
hope the pictures help too. <Based on those pictures, your
anemone is in very very poor shape, if not already dead. Also,
you have Aiptasia anemones, which are no doubt stinging your BTA.
A peppermint shrimp may help this, but you may need to protect
the anemone from the shrimp while you feed it. I also suggest you
be prepared for a large water change in the event that your
anemone dies. Having 20 gallons or more available at all times is
a good idea. Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor 911 -- 1/04/08 I will try
everything you suggested. <Excellent!> Could the nitrate
and ammonia level be high because of the addition of the new
cured rock I added on New Years Day? <Yes, if the rock was not
cured. Since your anemone has been on the decline for a while,
the addition of this rock is not the root cause of its poor
health. However, you need to get those levels down quickly.> I
did test the water the day after I added it. I have been zapping
the Aiptasia with Joe's juice. <I would discontinue for
now until the anemone is recovered. Peppermint shrimp may help,
but you need to get your water parameters up to par.> I added
the phosphate control due to some hair algae growth. That is what
my LFS recommended. <What were your phosphate levels? I would
also discontinue this for now. You don't want to stress the
anemone out any more than you have to. You need to get to the
root of the phosphate problem. Where is your source water coming
from? Have you tested the source water? How are you storing the
water? > You mentioned soaking food in Selcon. What is that? I
have not heard of it. <Here is a link to Selcon:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=5009&Nty=1&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=All&pc=1&N=0&Ntt=selcon&Np=1
> I will try everything you recommended. <Great! I did not
see a protein skimmer listed with your equipment. Are you using
one, if so, which one? > Thanks for all your help. Becky
<You're welcome! I'll be here to help you along the
way! Brenda>
|
|
E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues -- 11/14/07
Hello once again! <Hello Ryan, Brenda here> I have yet
another question for you. <Not a problem!> It never ends,
does it? <No, but this is how we all learn, and why we are
here.> Thanks for all your great help so far and hopefully you
can help me out with this interesting situation? <I'll
try!> I recently moved my bubble tip anemone and its clone to
a new tank. The new tank was setup with existing live rock and
water, as well as some Chaetomorpha algae. <This is not an
instant cycle. This creature needs an established environment,
including the sand bed. This takes a minimum of 6 months, one
year is best.> Everything has been going well, except the
endless walking around the tank. <It is not happy.>
Different flow and lights will cause that. <The new tank is
likely the cause.> Yesterday I came home from work and found
something interesting. The anemones had been fed the day before
and looked a little unhappy. <What are you feeding it?> I
took a look and found something interesting? I've posted this
on three forums and no one has responded, which, in my opinion
means no one has an answer? Today the anemones look much happier
and the "egg sac" in the attached picture is gone.
After I took the picture last night I noticed the tentacle
started to tear open but I did not stay up late enough to see if
anything was released? I added some carbon and did a water change
just in case something in the tank was off. <You need to keep
a close eye on your water parameters.> Thanks for looking,
Ryan.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1496.jpg
It is just to the right of the mouth. <Yes, I see this.>
Any ideas? <Well, I can tell you, it is not an egg sac. Here
is a link to a thread that shows eggs inside of an anemone. The
pictures in this thread are amazing.
http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic74210-9-1.aspx This is also a
good article to read:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/feature.htm As far
as what is going on; it could be a number of things. It looks to
me like one of its tentacles has become injured or irritated.
What are the tank mates, including fish, corals and
invertebrates? Have you noticed anything bothering it? Are there
any possibilities that salt accumulated somewhere and dropped
into the tank, landing on the anemone? What are your water
parameters? How long has this tank been up and running? Did you
transfer the sand bed over also? If so, how long did you leave it
cycle before adding the livestock? Thanks again. <You're
welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues --
11/15/07 Hi Brenda, thanks for the reply. <Hello Ryan, and
you're welcome!> You are not going to like this?
<Yikes!> I did the entire change over in one day!
<Ouch!> After asking many people if it would be OK if I
used existing live rock and water as well as some Chaeto, they
all said yes. <No, it is not ok, especially with anemones.>
So if this was not OK what can I do now? Water parameters were
fine until I fed the anemones, I fed them shrimp, same shrimp
I've fed for over a year. My ammonia was a little high the
day after and I'm assuming that one or both of the anemones
did not eat their "dinner", causing the higher ammonia.
<The ammonia spike is caused by the cycle. This is extremely
toxic to anemones.> I did a water change to fix the problem, a
rather large water change and after that they both looked fine.
Here are the water parameters, ammonia 0, nitrite 0 (yes I'm
sure), nitrate 0, calcium 400, Alk 10 DKH, salinity 1.025, temp.
79....I think that's it. <I do recommend a salinity of
1.026 for anemones.> The tank has a couple of frags that were
attached to the live rock, Montipora and that is it, no other
corals or fish....oh other than the one Palythoa hijacker. Please
let me know if there is a way I can fix this situation? <I
suggest getting the anemones out of there for a while. See if you
can find someone local to take it in. If you are starting with a
new sand bed, you need to wait a minimum of 6 months. If you
transferred the old sand bed, it will take less time, but I
can't give you an exact time frame. It could take a few
weeks, or even a few months. There are too many variables. You
will need to keep checking your water parameters. Once everything
has been stable for a while, you can put the anemones back
in.> I assure you I did a lot of questioning before I went
ahead with this move and everyone said it was fine. Now I need
your help, please. I did not check the links yet because I'm
in a bit of a rush and trying to catch you today rather than
tomorrow. Thanks for your help, Ryan. <You're welcome!
Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues --
11/16/07 Thank you Brenda! <You're Welcome!> Sorry
to keep this going back and forth with you. <No need to be
sorry!> The sand is new, I thought I was saving myself cycling
issues by doing this rather than using old "dirty"
sand, apparently I was wrong. <Even when using old sand, there
will still be a cycle.> I have little trust in others in my
area, I work at a LFS but don't want my anemones there
because they cram them all in one little tank. <Ouch! I know
what you mean! When visiting a LFS, I first look at how they
treat their anemones. I can't count how many times I've
left feeling sick! I have found very few LFS that provide an
adequate environment for this creature.> I don't know
anyone else (local) with a tank that would be suited to keep
anemones. <Wish I could help, I would gladly take the anemones
in for a while if you were local.> So that being said I would
prefer to try and fix the problem by myself. I watch things very
carefully and hopefully I can pull this off? I have a SPS reef
tank that has been doing great for over a year (started it before
that). Here's what I've been doing. I'm making 5
gallons of new saltwater per day, letting it rest (with a pump)
for a day, adding that to my reef tank, then I take 5 gallons out
of my reef tank and change 5 gallons on my anemone tank. <This
is a waste of effort in my opinion. You simply can not create an
instant cycle. Your new tank needs time to cycle. Dirty water is
not the solution. Once your tank has cycled it will still not be
an adequate environment for anemones.> Not the best method but
hopefully this will get me through this 6 month period? I know
you are not going to be all that fond of this idea. <No,
I'm not fond at all, neither are the anemones. They need an
established environment, no less than 6 months, no short cuts
here.> Do you think it is possible to keep my anemones if I
continue to do this? <It is a possibility, but not a
probability, also not fair to the anemones to be kept in such an
environment.> My other option would be to somehow get them
back in my reef tank. <This would be my choice, with a slow
drip acclimation to reduce added stress.> I would prefer not
to lose my corals. That is an option that I would rather not go
for. <Were the anemones in the SPS tank previously? Were there
problems that made you decide to move them, roaming, etc.? I keep
anemones with SPS, and have had no issues. My anemones do not
roam, and I keep the SPS away from the anemones. Granted, this is
not a guarantee that they won't roam someday. Can you tell me
more about your SPS tank? Size, equipment, livestock, water
parameters, amount of flow, RO or RO/DI water, is there room for
the anemones? I appreciate your help a lot. Please try and see
things from my point of view on this. <I do, (and the anemones
view) we've all made mistakes.> I am doing my best to keep
them happy. I guess I should have emailed you first, before I
made the transfer. By the way both anemones look very healthy and
happy! <This may not be long term.> Thanks so much, Ryan.
<You're welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues... Brenda!
Refer Ryan! -- 11/16/07 Hi Brenda, <Hello Ryan!>
Thanks again! <You're welcome!> The anemones were in
the SPS tank before but the two used to be one, it split and then
both started roaming. <Both are a sign of stress.> They are
also very large so their tentacles swaying in the current (lots
of flow) were causing problems with my corals and clam. <Yes,
that is a problem!> I use RO/DI water, have 4000 gph of flow
(90 gallon tank), <That is a lot of flow, likely too much for
anemones.> a EuroReef skimmer, Kalk reactor, refugium with a
DSB and Chaeto, 500 watts of metal halide lighting (10K), 100+
pounds of live rock, 30 gallon sump, etc. <Nice
equipment!!!> My water parameters in the SPS tank are ammonia
0, nitrite 0, nitrate 1.5, calcium 400, DKH 11, Ph 8.3, temp. 79,
SG 1.025-1.026.....I think I got all of those? My SPS tank is
packed full of corals and my main concern is the anemones
wandering or letting loose of the live rock and floating into a
Tunze powerhead. <I don't recommend the use of powerheads
with anemones. If you must use them, they need to be covered with
something to protect the anemone.> I can provide you a link to
a picture to show you my tank so you get a feel for how packed it
is. My other thought was putting them in the refugium but then I
would have to buy an additional light and most likely keep that
light on at the same time my tank lights are on (not sure why I
think that?). <I don't know why you think that either. I
recommend the refugium light to be on at opposite times of the
main tank. Placing the anemones in the sump (with proper
lighting) is an option as long as you can be sure the anemones
are protected from all pumps. Anemones going through a pump can
wipe out an entire system. Without seeing your set up or knowing
how much flow is going through it, I really can't recommend
it.> I certainly want to keep the anemones happy so I'll
do what I need to. I'm also wondering if there would be a
safe way to connect the two tanks for a period of 6 months. I
cannot drill the tank, it's brand new acrylic and cost enough
that I would not feel comfortable putting a temporary hole in it.
<I don't blame you. What size/type tank is your new one?
How close is it to the old one? What lighting do you have on it?
Do you have any old tanks around that you could temporarily
connect to the established tank, a 20 gallon or so? I do suggest
running carbon, and frequent water changes when mixing coral and
anemones. The initial problems you experienced may have been
caused by chemical warfare, along with too much flow.> I
really appreciate all your help. Here's a picture so you can
see what I'm dealing with.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1508.jpg
<Yes, a bit crowded for anemones.> I guess the other option
would be to cage them in with some egg crate until they are
attached and happy? <There are no guarantees that creating a
cage will create happiness. I believe there is simply too much
flow in your main tank, and possibly chemical warfare. In the
mean time, take a cup or two of sand out of your established
tank, and start seeding your new tank.> Thanks once again,
Ryan. <You're welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues --
11/17/07 Thanks Brenda! <You're welcome> Wow the
longest running WWM FAQ ever....I'm joking. I do have extra
tanks but connecting them safely would be an issue. The only way
I could do that is to have a pump in the main tank and a pump in
the connected tank, both pumping water back and forth, we both
know you should not do that. The refugium may work. I have no
pumps in the Fuge, just a feed pump from a different area of the
sump which supplies clean water and lower flow. I would need to
upgrade the lighting but other than that I think that may work.
Here's what I'm going to do today. Take some sand out of
the refugium, add it to the anemone tank, take a large amount of
Chaeto and add that to the anemone tank as well. I am also going
to try and add some flow without having a pump directly in the
tank with the anemones. I think they miss the flow. Both settled
in a very high flow location in my reef tank so maybe that's
what they're looking for. <They are suffering from being
placed in a non-cycled/non-established tank. It is important that
you get them out of there. This is not only very stressful on
anemones, but also one of the leading causes of death in
captivity.> I'll assume this will be the last email about
this, so once again thanks so much for all your help. I'll
give you an update in a month or so. Thanks, Ryan. <Good luck
to you! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues --
4/7/08 Hi Brenda, <Hello Ryan! It has been a while! > I
hope you're the one who gets this? <Sorry for the delay,
I've been out for a few days. > I wanted to let you know
everything with the two anemones is going well, no issues at all.
It was a little rough at the start but after a month or so
everything seemed to cool off. <Keep an eye on them. You are
just approaching the 6-month mark. The stress that the move has
caused them over the last few months could cause them to rapidly
decline if there is even a slight problem. > The anemones have
not moved in months and are very happy in their new home.
<Good to hear! > I seem to have a bit of a nutrient issue
which caused a population of Aiptasia to explode, but other than
that everything is going really well. <You'll want to get
that under control. Aiptasia can sting BTAs.> I recently
bought a used AquaC Remora skimmer, which will help with the
nutrient load. <Awesome product! Keep the pump away from the
anemones. > I know you thought and insisted this could not be
done, but with frequent water changes and careful feeding I seem
to have accomplished something most apparently cannot? <My
thoughts have not changed. It is very stressful on the anemones,
unfair, and often deadly. See the before and after pictures that
you submitted below. > I also added 2 black and white clowns
(tank bred), which love the anemones! <Adorable clownfish!
> Here is a picture of the happy anemones and their happy
clowns.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_2221.jpg
<It looks like they have lost quite a bit of color
(zooxanthellae) since this picture that you sent me in November:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1496.jpg
This really shows just how stressful the last few months have
been on them. If there are no more problems, they should continue
to recover.> Thanks for all your help!! You're welcome!
Good luck to you! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues --
4/8/08 <Hello Ryan!> Thanks for the concern and
pointing out the color difference to me, but I think I have an
explanation of why they looked so bright before? <Okay.>
That picture, the one from November was taken when the lights
were off using flash and possibly a flashlight. The color from
the flash or flashlight is much more yellow than the color from
the lights on the tank. The reason I took that picture at that
time was because it was the only time the anemone was deflated
enough to see the weird egg shaped tentacle. I'm not saying
this was a brilliant idea to put the anemones in a new tank and I
hope things continue to work out the way they have. <I hope so
too. However, this photo
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_2221.jpg
leads me to believe this anemone has not completely regained its
health. > The lighting they were in before was 500 watts of
metal halide and now they are under 130 watts of PC lighting.
<What size tank are they in now?> Maybe that caused a
difference in color as well? <Lighting does play a role in
coloration. However, I'm seeing some white and some areas
that look a bit transparent.> They have been eating when I
feed, which has been very sparingly so far and appear to be
perfectly happy? <Try feeding some small portions of
silversides soaked in Selcon, and feeding more often.> I
really hope I'm not wrong and this continues to work out?
<With an adequate environment, they will continue to
improve.> About the skimmer, it's located in a back
chamber of the tank; the tank has an internal filtration system
so everything is hidden behind the overflow which should prevent
any damage to the anemones from pumps. <Great!> Thanks for
all your help and if you would like I can give you another update
in a month or two? <That would be great!> Thanks again,
Ryan <You're welcome! Brenda>
|
Stressed BTA due to shipping,
Entacmaea quadricolor -- 8/19/07 Hello,
<Hello Wesley, Brenda here again> I've got a question about my rose BTA. I added it a few
days ago to my tank. The first day it expelled some waste then
expanded to its current size. After reading through your FAQs I
think it is expelling some symbiotic algae. I've attached two
pictures to show the change. <Yes, I
see, and agree.> The first picture was taken 6hrs after it was
placed in the tank and is expelling waste (though it is hard to
see). Second picture is day 3 (color is actually more vibrant than
it appears). You can see that it has opened up and the tentacles
have elongated. Could be that the algae is simply being stretched
over a larger area resulting in less coloration. I have noticed
that at night when it shrinks down the colors are stronger.
<Typical> The open mouth makes me think it is somehow
stressed/expelling algae. <An open mouth is a sign of a stressed
anemone. It does appear to have lost some of its zooxanthellae.> I ordered it online, so it did spend an entire
day being kicked around by FedEx. <This is likely the
cause. Shipping is very stressful on anemones. How was
the anemone packaged?> Also, my maroon clown has now made the
RBTA its home, though she isn't beating it up. <A maroon
clownfish with a stressed anemone can cause more harm. Keep a
close eye on it, and be prepared to remove the clownfish.> Tank
specs: 50g 2 x 150w
20k HQI (same temp online store kept it under) Ammonia = 0 Nitrite = 0
Nitrate = 0 Alkalinity =
10.5 Calcium = 380 ppm (slowly being
raised) PH = 8.1 (slowly being raised with
Calcium) <A pH of 8.1 is
acceptable.> Salinity = 1.235 (also
being raised to target of 1.25) <Slowly
bring salinity up to 1.026. Use saltwater as your daily top
off until you reach 1.026. Where is your magnesium at?
What is the temperature?> Slow = at
least a week (hah) I did the drip method
acclimation procedure over roughly 3.5 hours. <Perfect!> I haven't started feeding it yet pursuant
to Crew member Brenda's advice (thanks!) to wait a few days. Is
it bleaching? <It is slightly bleached. I have seen much
worse completely recover. I have high hopes for this little
guy!!!> What should I do if it is? <Start feeding small portions of food such as silversides,
lance fish, or Mysis shrimp. Start with portions approximately 1/8
inch every other day. Don't force it to eat. If it
doesn't want to take the food, try again the next day.
Food soaked in Selcon may also help. http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/207914/product.web
Keep checking your water parameters and keep up with water
changes. Once it recovers feed two to three times a week,
with portions no bigger than the mouth.> Thank you for your help, Wesley
<You're Welcome! I'll keep my fingers
crossed! Brenda> |
|
E. quadricolor, Bubble Tip Anemone Not Fully Inflated,
Mixed Species Tank??? -- 7/28/07 Hi there! <Hello, Brenda
here!> Well I have a bubble anemone and would just like to have a
concern addressed if possible? <I'll try!> My water quality
is perfect and lighting is good (in fact all other anemones and inverts
are happy and are growing like mad). <All other anemones? Unless the
anemones are clones, it is likely the problem.> My bubble anemone
just doesn't fully inflate. It rarely deflates. It's open all
day long and very occasionally moves around, but not too often, changed
positions once in the last 2-3 weeks). <A moving anemone is a sign
that it is unhappy. It may be getting stung by a nearby anemone or
coral.> My main concern is why does it never fully inflate? It is
inflated but not to what I have seen it do before! I would say it is
about 3 quarters fully inflated but that is as far as it goes! Any
theories? <I need more information. Are the anemones that you keep
the same species and clones? If not, I would separate, that is likely
the problem. If they are the same species and a clone: What are the
other tank mates? I also need actual water parameters, tank size,
equipment list, including lighting. How long have you had the anemone?
Have you changed anything lately, bulbs perhaps? What do you feed, how
often and what sized portions? How long has the tank been set up?>
Many thanks, Jamie <You're Welcome! Brenda>
Reef tank with BTA and Sea Star without Live Rock --
4/7/07 Hi, <Hello, Brenda here> I tried to find
my answer on your FAQs and such, but could not find what I was looking
for. I started a 55 Gallon reef tank with live sand (no live
rock). <No live rock? This doesn't sound like a reef
tank.> My water tests have all come out as 0's. I have two
tank-raised ocellaris clowns, two small damsel fish, a small orange
Linckia, and have added two small bubble tip anemones. This is my first
effort with anemones so I don't know what exactly they do when
first introduced to the tank. Neither is attaching to anything. They
are both sitting on the bottom of the tank. <Please research before
you buy an animal.> One seems to be repeatedly puffing up, and then
gets smaller. The other has gotten very small and looks to be spewing
some slime out of its mouth. Is this what they are supposed to do or
are they dying? <Could be expelling waste, but my guess is it is
dying. You have not provided an adequate environment for
them.> If they are OK, will they attach to something in the tank on
their own or do they need a little guidance? <Your tank needs live
rock, for many reasons. I'm not sure what you are
expecting it to attach to.> I have a question about my little sea
star as well. It seems to ball up on itself quite a bit. It almost
looks like it is inside out. Is this supposed to happen? <Again, it
sounds like you have not provided it with an adequate
environment.> I'm new to all this. Please help.
<This sounds like a new tank also. These animals need an
established environment, which includes live rock. It sounds
like you are rushing into things. Please search WWM for the
benefits of live rock, and the care requirements for your anemone and
sea star. I suggest you return your anemones and sea star to
the LFS until you can provide an established environment for these
animals.> Thanks, Mistie <You're
welcome! Brenda>
Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical
Warfare -- 12/2/07 Dear Crew, <Hello Andy, Brenda here>
It's been a while since I rapped at ya. I have a question
about the health of my BTA. I have had it for 7 months or so,
during which time its color has gone from tan to a deep red. It
is paired up with a Gold Stripe Maroon Clown, and they have a
good relationship. I feed it about once per week with (I rotate)
Mysis, small pieces of table shrimp, and chopped oyster, all
soaked in Selcon. It has always readily taken food and remains
open and pointed upwards most of the time. I have a 110g display
(30" high) with 6x54W T5 HO (4x10000K and 2x460nm actinics)
that is on about 12 hours per day (I use a timer). I plan to swap
out at least the 4 10000Ks with 14000Ks when I replace my bulbs.
The BTA is attached to LR very near the bottom of my tank. Since
day 1, it has been in this same location, with minor realignments
from time to time. I have previously posted a question to WWM
about its position at the bottom of the tank and my lighting, as
I was concerned that my lighting might not be enough for it, but
the response was to leave things alone if the BTA was happy and
doing well. <Yes, I remember. If I'm not mistaken, both
James and myself answered your questions. This fixture does not
have individual reflectors correct?> Over the last 7-10 days,
however, I've noticed that the BTA appears a little wilted
(both its foot and its tentacles) and is no longer positioned
up/towards the light. <How old are the bulbs?> In fact, it
appears to be resting on the glass bottom of the tank. It is
still deep red in color and its foot remains attached to the same
ledge of LR. Last night I tried to feed it, but it did not take
the food or close up around itself as usual. <This is not a
good sign. Can you send me a picture of the anemone?> As you
know, you get to know your animals, and I just know that the BTA
is not itself. <Yes> Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and
phosphate are all 0. Temp is stable at 77-78*, <I prefer a bit
warmer temperature for anemones. I try to keep mine at 80
degrees.> pH is 8.3, alk is 3.5 meq/L, and salinity is 1.0245
(I have tried to get it up to 1.025 but can't keep it stable
there due to top-off, salt creep, etc.). <Be careful with salt
creep, it is dangerous to live stock. I recommend 1.026 for
anemones. I suggest topping off with salt water until you get to
1.026.> I also employ a 30g fuge (4" DSB, LR and Chaeto)
and a Coral Life Super Skimmer, and I run carbon in my sump
(change every 4 weeks). <I would try increasing the carbon
change to every 2 weeks.> I have about 85lbs of LR, a Sailfin
Tang, a Royal Gramma, a Brown Combtooth Blenny, and a Canary
Wrasse (in addition to the Clown), two Cleaner Shrimps, about 22
various types of shrooms, <Mushrooms are toxic. You may have a
chemical war going on here. Changing your carbon more frequently
may help.> 2 small tree corals, a Lemnalia, and some Xenia. I
do a 10% water change each week. Water is RO/DI. <Is it time
to change the filters?> Circulation is about 10x per hour. I
am very careful about not introducing any foreign substances
(cleaners, etc.). <Good!> Do BTAs go through these phases,
or should I be worried? <This is not a phase, something is
wrong here.> I don't know what I could be doing wrong or
not doing. <It may be a combination of things. I suspect the
mushrooms contributing largely to the problem. Lighting and RO/DI
filters may also be contributing. However, I would expect the
anemone to move higher up if it was not getting enough light.>
Thanks for any insight you may have. Andy <You're welcome!
Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical
Warfare -- 12/2/07 Thanks for the response, Brenda.
<You're welcome Andy! I received both of your e-mails, and
will answer both here.> I have attached 2 pictures of the BTA.
Unfortunately, it's positioned itself under a ledge, oriented
perpendicular to the front of the tank and out of light, so the
pictures aren't that great and I couldn't get a picture
of its mouth. I also don't have a macro lens yet, so the
image quality is what it is . . . <Hard to tell. The pictures
are much too dark. The anemone is much too small for a Maroon
Clownfish. Maroons can be rough on smaller anemones. It is
recommended that the anemone be 3 times larger than the
clownfish. The anemone is also too small for having it 7 months
with your feeding schedule. It is not getting the proper
nutrition. Is the clownfish or the shrimp stealing its food?>
I forgot to mention in my last e-mail that my calcium is 400, so
that is where it should be as well. I tried tonight to feed it
some fresh clam. It captured the clam and started to swirl its
tentacles, but I'm pretty sure it never ate the food (it
didn't form a bulb around itself as usual). <I suggest
trying some silversides. Not all anemones will accept the same
foods. There are many cases where some anemones reject many
common foods, and will accept silversides. Based on the condition
of the anemone, I would feed a 1/8 inch sized portion of
silversides daily. Once it improves I would go to 1/4 inch sized
portion every 2 to 3 days for a month or two.> Thanks again
for your help. <You're welcome!> Shoot! I forgot to
answer your other questions too. My RO/DI unit is 4-5 months old,
and my TDS reads 148 going in and 0 going out, so I think the
filters are working fine. <I would take a sample into your LFS
to double check. It is not uncommon for 4-5 month old filters to
need to be replaced.> My T5 bulbs are about 7 months old or
so--they do not have separate reflectors. <Is it time to clean
the salt off of the reflector and bulbs?> All of my mushrooms
are at the edges of my tank, and the BTA sits in the middle of my
tank. Relatively speaking, there isn't a mushroom near the
BTA. <They do not have to be next to each other to have
chemical warfare.> I will start swapping out the carbon more
often. I realize that things in the marine world happen slowly
(sometimes). The BTA and the shrooms have lived together for 5 or
6 months. <Chemical warfare is a perfect example of things
going bad slowly. With anemones, it can take months, or even a
few years before it starts showing ill signs. Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical
Warfare -- 12/4/07 Thanks again. <You're welcome!>
The anemone is actually quite big when healthy, at least 3 times
as big as the clown. I was able to get a feeding response from it
by trying another piece of fresh clam, but it wasn't nearly
as vigorous as usual. <I would still try the silversides. Are
you positive that what you have is a BTA? After our last e-mail,
I started thinking it may possibly be an LTA, which may explain
why it hasn't climbed higher in the tank.> I clean the
salt spray from the shields on my lights every week.
<Good!> Andy <Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical
Warfare -- 12/5/07 Brenda, <Andy> I'm not sure of
anything, although it was sold to me as a "bulb
anemone" and did have bubble tips for about the first month
or so, so I'm pretty sure it's a BTA. <It does appear
to be.> I will get silversides tonight and start the feeding
routine you suggested. I'll keep you posted. <Great!
I'll keep my fingers crossed!> Thanks for all your help.
Andy <You're welcome and good luck! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical
Warfare -- 12/7/07 Well Brenda, I am at a loss as to what is
going on with my BTA. For three nights I have tried to feed it
small pieces of silversides and I am pretty sure that the BTA
failed to eat at least 2 of those 3 times. Tonight, I stood on a
chair with my arm in the tank for 45 minutes chasing all my
hermits and shrimps away from the anemone hoping to ensure that
it could eat unmolested. <I would remove the hermits and
shrimp, or you could place a plastic strawberry basket over the
anemone. However, based on the location of the anemone, I
don't know if you are going to be able to do this. Removal of
the shrimp and crabs is best! I have seen shrimp go digging
inside an anemone looking for food several hours after feeding an
anemone. Eventually the shrimp became the anemones dinner. Pay
backs are rough sometimes. All crabs have the potential to be
predators.> My back now aches and the skin on my hand became
shriveled, and the BTA ultimately released the silverside without
eating. <Ouch!> I raised my temp to 80 degrees and the
salinity is now over 1.025. <Needs to be 1.026 and stable.>
Is it possible that it is getting ready to split and that's
why it is not eating? <Is possible, but I don't believe
this is what is going on.> If it starts to die, how in the
heck do I get it out of my tank? <First, I'm not sure that
your anemone is going to die soon, but it is possible. It is hard
to say without a better picture. However, in the even that it
does, you will need to remove it quickly before the rest of your
livestock dies. It is not going to be a fun easy task. If it is
already falling apart (this happens rather quickly) when you find
it, you may be able to suction it out. Either way, it is going to
be extremely unpleasant for you and your livestock. Keep plenty
of extra saltwater on hand. You will need to do a large water
change and run fresh carbon. Keep a close eye on the water
parameters for the first two week.> It's at the bottom of
my tank with its foot firmly planted under LR. Also, I seriously
believe my Clown will die from loneliness. <As I stated
before, your anemone is much too small for the Maroon. They need
to be separated. Maroons are harsh on a smaller anemone and
likely deadly to a sick anemone. Your clownfish will be a little
upset over the loss, but will not die without an anemone. Have
you taken your water samples in to be tested yet? Were the
readings the same as your test kits? I still believe that you do
not have enough lighting to support this anemone. Unfortunately,
I can not explain why it regained its color after you got it and
is now ill. Your lighting, a Maroon loving it to death, water
parameters, toxins in the water, the shrimp and the crabs, are
all possibilities. I would start looking into finding another
home for the anemone, preferably someone experienced with sick
anemones. I believe this situation is going to continue to
worsen. If you need help finding someone, let me know your
location and I will see if I can find someone local to you. For
now, I suggest contacting your closest reef club. A LFS is not
likely going to take on this task.> Andy <I wish I had
better news for you! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical
Warfare -- 12/7/07 Brenda, <Andy> Without breaking down
my entire tank, there is no way that I am going to get this BTA
out of the tank. His foot is wedged deep between the bottom of my
tank and a piece of LR. It just isn't going to happen.
<Try aiming a powerhead at it (without blasting it). Maybe
you'll get lucky and it will move on its own. Can you see the
anemones foot from underneath the tank? Is it attached to the
glass? If so, possibly something cold (soft ice pack) from
underneath, along with the powerhead may irritate the foot enough
to make it move. It is a long shot, but worth a try. If this
doesn't work, there really is no other option other than
tearing the tank apart. Letting it die is not an option in my
opinion.> Believe it or not, the Clown was just a tiny sucker
when I got her--dwarfed by the BTA. And as I said in a previous
email, when healthy, the BTA is actually quite large--double if
not triple the size of the Clown. <Yes, I am aware of that,
but circumstances have changed drastically.> The one thing I
totally forgot to do, and which I will do Saturday, is take my
water to the LFS. Thanks again for all your time/help. Andy
<You're Welcome! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical
Warfare -- 12/7/07 Brenda, <Andy> I've read many
times on WWM that "allowing an animal to die is never an
option". With all due respect to the love that we all have
for our animals, I don't necessarily agree that allowing an
animal to die is always "wrong" and is never an
"option". <I am not convinced that your anemone
could not live a long healthy life if it were given the proper
environment.> In fact, under appropriate circumstances, it may
even be the right option. Rather, in deciding to entirely break
down a large tank to save one animal, I think one needs to
consider the incredible amount of stress that such action would
place on all the other livestock and the possibility that, in
saving one animal, you may kill others. <I am fully aware of
the stress involved in tearing a tank apart. I can assure you
that a dead anemone, can crash your entire system quickly,
leaving you with a total loss. I did recommend the lesser of the
two evils here.> In addition, in my particular situation, one
needs to consider whether you will actually be able to dislodge
the anemone without severely injuring it in the process.
<Extreme caution is always required when handling anemones.
However, it is not an impossible task.> Add to all of that the
stress placed on the fish keeper, his or her available facilities
(e.g., ability to move and hold healthy livestock while breaking
down the tank, etc.), and any number of other factors. <When
you purchase any animal, you are ultimately responsible for their
care. This animal did not ask to be removed from the ocean.>
My tank is large, heavy and sits on an oak stand. I can't see
or access the bottom of the tank. The BTA's foot is wedged
deep between the glass bottom and a large piece of live rock. I
honestly do not believe that I could physically get this anemone
out of this crevice without tearing its foot. The power head idea
may work, though. <If you can see the foot, or have a general
idea where it is, aim the powerhead in that direction.> As
with everything in life, there are no absolutes, there is never
only one "right" way to do things, and there is no
"single" moral compass that we all must follow. We all
love our animals, or we wouldn't be in the hobby. Some
hobbyist obviously are more caring/thoughtful than others, but I
honestly believe that very few of us go out and spend thousands
of dollars on a display and thousands of hours of hard work only
to take a "I don't care about my animals" attitude.
I certainly do not want to see my BTA die, and I am certainly
committed to keeping my livestock healthy and happy and to nurse
them back to health when they are sick. <You are correct,
there are no absolutes. However, given a proper environment and
proper care, they won't get sick. The lack of lighting issue
was mentioned to you back in early or mid October. Nearly two
months have gone by. You stated that upgrading the equipment was
not an option at this time. Sufficient lighting, double checking
your water parameters with another source, removing the clownfish
for a month or two, or finding a new home, may save this
creatures life. That my friend is the 'single' moral
thing to do.> Hopefully things will work out for my BTA. <I
truly hope so too!> Andy <Good luck to you! I hope that
someday you are able to send me an e-mail telling me that the
anemone is thriving. Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical
Warfare, -- 12/8/07 Brenda, <Andy> I hereby crown you
the Angry Crew Member. <You are sadly mistaken here. I am not
angry, but I am disappointed in your lack of willingness to
satisfy this animals needs.> The WWM Crew frequently requests
that posters read their e-mails twice to make sure that the
spelling, grammar, etc. is correct. <Yet I'm still fixing
yours!> In the same vein, I ask you to save your responses for
12 hours and then come back and read them again to make sure you
really want to hit "send". <I answer when time
allows, and will continue to do so.> The only reason I am
dignifying your tone/comments is that I celebrated the holidays
with our friends tonight and I have a few beers in me. <Is
your drug altered state of mind supposed to be funny, insulting
or threatening? It is not welcome here!> I have news for
you--long before October, long before you were involved in my BTA
issue, even before I bought my BTA, I asked two reputable local
fish stores about the suitability of my lighting system with a
BTA, and each of them stated that my T5 lighting would be fine.
<How is that working out for you?> In fact, I even posed
the question to WWM and RMF (if memory serves) stated that my T5
lighting system should be sufficient, that the BTA would likely
find its "spot" in my tank and that I would know soon
enough by its movement, etc. whether it was happy. It's been
6 or 7 months . . . <The words 'likely' and
'should' are key words here, and 'soon enough'
has now passed. Providing Bob with the correct information on
your lighting would have been more helpful. You did not know if
your T-5 lighting system had individual reflectors or not. In
fact you did not understand what individual reflectors were. I
explained this to you.> This is a 10-day old problem. <No,
the problem started the day you purchased the anemone and placed
it in your tank without researching their requirements.> When
I asked you previously about my lighting, my BTA was seemingly in
fine health, eating, large, and happy. <Perhaps a refresher is
needed: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/spgidf7.htm > I asked you
BECAUSE I was being proactive by trying to get as much
info/opinion as possible. While I respect your opinion, it is not
universally shared. <I have spent many hours researching and
caring for anemones. The information that I provided to you is
the best available to date.> Define "proper
environment" and "proper care". Is it lighting? Is
it food? Is it luck? <There are many factors involved. This
information was previously provided to you. It is also posted
many times on WWM. 'Luck' is not the answer when
providing long term care for this delicate creature.> You
don't know the answer, and you've admitted to me as much.
<My statement in my first e-mail regarding this issue:
'The anemone appears healthy. If you have individual
reflectors on your T-5s, I would leave things alone.'> If
my lighting is so bad, why has my BTA remained in the same spot
for 7 months and not moved to the top of my LR so that it can be
as close to the light as possible? <It may not have the energy
to move. It clearly doesn't even have the energy to eat.>
Why has its color improved? <I have not seen this. Again, this
is based on your description.> Don't lecture me about my
responsibilities. I have spent countless hours researching WWM,
books, articles, etc. <This is not a lecture, but a repeat of
the hundreds of posts already on WetWebMedia.> I have spent
thousands of dollars on supplies, equipment, etc. to ensure that
my pets have a good environment. <A million dollars invested
in the wrong equipment won't help.> My wife thinks I live
in my basement as it is. I'm not the Baltimore Aquarium, for
God's sake. I don't have 30 tanks waiting to house my
fish and inverts while I rescue an animal. <You have a 110
gallon tank here. Do the math! You won't need 30 tanks.>
I'm doing the best I can here, by writing you as soon as I
see a problem, by feeding, by testing water, etc. <No, not the
best, just what you are willing to do, and you are not
considering the animal's life. Writing won't help much
unless you actually act.> That's what's moral.
<Obviously we don't agree here.> I fully intend to take
a sample to my LFS. <Is a good choice, should have been done
already.> I don't know what your day job is, but mine
doesn't involve sitting at home with hours of free time on my
hands to run off <to> the LFS whose hours don't always
match up with my schedule. <My day job is not your
business.> It will get done tomorrow. And, what if my water
checks out fine? What then? <Does upgrading your lighting,
removing the clownfish, chemical warfare, correcting your water
parameters sound familiar?> What if the BTA is simply dying?
<Anemones don't just 'simply' die without cause.
They can out live both of us if given the proper environment.>
I just put down my dog. She was 15. I could have spent thousands
of dollars on surgery, but the vet said she probably wouldn't
make it through the surgery and, even if she did, there was a
good possibility that she would die anyway. He said it was just
her time. <May she rest in peace! So it must be the
anemone's time too?> Sometimes things just happen, and all
the water changes, and MH lighting, and food, and isolation
won't change a thing. <I'm not sure where you are
getting your information here, but it is incorrect in this
case.> Clearly there is something wrong with my BTA. <Oh
yes! Clearly!> I will do all in my power to figure out what
that is and hopefully remedy it. <It has been figured out for
you. I have listed the remedy. It won't fix itself.> I
honestly do not want my BTA to die or to foul my tank. I have
invested too much time and money to want that to happen.
<Perhaps a little more time and money will fix the
situation.> I thank you kindly for all of your insight and
help. Happy Holidays. <Andy, when you do sober up please know
that I will no longer be assisting you. Brenda>
Re: BTA Health... effective
communication 12/9/07 Brenda, <Mmm, no,
BobF this time> You don't have to assist me anymore, but I
need to set the record straight because you aren't reading.
<Have just reviewed this corr. Here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/btadisf6.htm > You seriously have
issues. <...?> Threatening? Don't be ridiculous or a
jerk. <......?> Nothing in my post could be construed as
threatening. Funny? A good assessment? Yeah, those two. Maybe
it's just your email mannerism, but my problem with you is
that you come across as a holier than thou, know-it-all jerk (and
I have seen this in many other responses from you to others,
including one in which you scolded a poster by making a reference
to your dying grandfather-- your day job is no one's
business, but your grandfather is?). <Take care here my
friend... this is neither pertinent, nor proper> I will ignore
your "sober up" and "drug induced" remarks
(as well as your typos that were in your earlier
responses--people who live in glass houses . . .). They are
wholly inappropriate based on an incorrect reading of my post. I
was simply in a good mood. You have made these grand statements
about how I failed to do my research, how I neglected to tell Bob
about my lighting, how I am unwilling to buy a different lighting
system, how I am unwilling to take the steps necessary to help my
anemone, etc. They are all just plain wrong. You are right, I
willingly misrepresented my lighting system to Bob when I told
him that I had the "Current Nova Extreme T5 HO lighting
system." I have used this same description with others as
well. You guys are the fish experts, which is why we write. Even
though this is an extremely popular and common unit, I guess I
should have known that no one knew that it didn't have
individual reflectors (and known to even ask the question/know
the difference!). I take exception to your comment that I failed
to do research. First, I did do research before I purchased the
BTA. I read WWM, I read CMA, I researched other sites, and I
asked the industry. Apparently you want me to take a college
course. Many people successfully keep anemones using T5
lighting--this is evidenced by hundreds of posts on WWM and
elsewhere. Show me a site other than your posts which states
"if you're going to use T5 lighting with anemones, you
must use individual reflectors--that Nove Extreme system just
won't work." If (1) the manufacturer's description,
(2) the retailer's description, and (3) two separate LFSs all
indicate that the fixture is appropriate, and RMF doesn't
mention anything about individual reflectors after I described my
situation, why in the world would I think to ask the question?
What more research could I have done? You just need to be right
today, that's all. <For some/whatever record, reflectors
can/do help to focus, re-direct considerable amounts of light
energy> Also, I didn't say I wasn't willing to upgrade
lighting--I said it was less than a year old and expensive, and I
hated to trash it if I didn't have to. You suggest reflectors
or MH, someone else suggests swapping in 14000K bulbs the next
time I replace, someone else says my T5s are fine. Clearly a
consensus, and I can understand how you could think that I am a
totally irresponsible, uninformed hobbyist. <Mmm, I don't
see/read Brenda as coming across, stating this> As for the 30
tank comment, I guess you don't recognize hyperbole when you
see it. FYI, my water checked out fine except phosphates were a
little high (0.2) and iodine levels were extremely low to
non-existent, which is odd because I do weekly water changes. The
LFS stated that these two factors could definitely be the cause
of my BTA's refusal to eat. I have taken chemical steps to
fix these issues and will try to figure out what could be causing
my phosphates. I have also been able to get my BTA to eat thawed
mysis shrimp the last 2 night--I don't know why it won't
touch the silversides. <I encourage you to use tongs rather
than placing your hands in the system for any period/length of
time> I look forward to working with a calmer, less judgmental
Crew member the next time around. Andy <It is my opinion from
reading the corr. here that your Premnas IS much too large, is
over-bullying this Entacmaea. Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marclncompfaqs.htm and that this Anemone
is indeed in other ways in a less-than ideal setting in terms of
light, other Cnidarian presence, foods/feeding... Please read
here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
and the linked files above. I think you should seek your free
input elsewhere Andy... at least until which time you can be/are
civil. I count myself a tolerant person, but will not allow such
rudeness as this missal... Bob Fenner>
For Brenda/Bob... BTA hlth., more impt.ly, WWM
and tolerance... a/the human cond., beh. patterns, consequences
and politics 12/30/07 Dear Brenda and Bob, <Andy>
I sent an e-mail to Bob's hotmail account a few weeks ago,
but I'm not sure that address is functional so I thought it
best to send an e-mail through WWM (and I wanted Brenda to hear
me out too). So . . . now that I've had a chance to think
about things . . . I have realized a few things, not the least of
which is that you don't bite the hand that feeds you. WWM is
a wonderful, one-of-a-kind website. There is nothing for
hobbyists that parallels WWM on the web. I am very glad I found
it, although I wish I had done so before I got back into the
hobby. That said, I wanted to apologize to Brenda for my
responses to her e-mails relating to the health of my BTA.
Whether my perception of her e-mail "tone" was right or
wrong, I know that you guys do this for free, because you love
the hobby, and that, as I was looking to her for free help, I
should have used a little bit more restraint in my responses to
her. <Agreed> E-mail is impersonal and, as such, no matter
in what context or forum e-mail is used, a sender's
"attitude"/tone is often misinterpreted by the
recipient. I think this potential is especially likely in less
formal settings like (no disrespect intended) chat forums and the
like. In my line of work, where client perception is everything,
the manner in which an e-mail is likely to be interpreted is
something of which I try to be constantly cognizant before I hit
"send". <A good stance, point of view> To this
end, I almost always re-read my e-mails a few times before I send
them to make sure that they says and mean what I want them to say
and mean. In retrospect, I should have used similar judgment in
responding to Brenda and either toned things down or simply not
responded at all. <You are wise here> I think the e-mail
exchange between Brenda and me was a victim of such unintended
interpretations. Although I honestly believe that nothing in my
e-mails to Brenda could have been, or should have been, construed
as rude or uncivil, I understand that "beauty is in the eye
of the beholder", and I apologize to Brenda and you if
either of you perceived my "tone" to be less than
grateful. <I will accrue this msg. with the rest... To me...
there were overtly rude statements> I know you both realize
that we don't live in a perfect world, that we all have
"other" lives requiring other commitments (like work,
children, paying bills, etc.), that we live in houses that impose
constraints on our set-ups and ability to deal with problems,
that our wives don't always approve of turning basements into
the National Aquarium, etc., and that, sometimes, some things are
just not practical or practicable. I am very aware of the
responsibilities that I took on when I decided to keep marine
animals but, as with everything in life, there will always be
limits as to what is possible in a given situation. When
you're worried about your animals/investment and are faced
with a touchy situation--when you know what your limits are and
have tried to articulate them--it's difficult to listen to
criticism. I honestly felt that Brenda's comments to me were
someone brusque, but be that as it may I realize that she was
simply giving me a dose of reality. <Mmmm, yes> I hope that
Brenda and you will accept my apology and that you will remove me
from the "black list". <We have no such list/s...
nor have I ever, or will "block" people... Childish. I
only hope to urge others to civil discourse. Realize that we all,
including myself are not paid, are volunteers, are
"mere" humans as well... Earnestly interested in aiding
others... on an informal, ongoing basis... NOT perfect, certainly
NOT doing this work as a "job"...> As an
aside/update, as a result of Brenda's comments I decided to
upgrade my lighting to a unit with 2x250W HQI and 4x65W pure
actinic PCs. Although my BTA is not entirely back to normal, I
believe (and hope) that it is on the mend, as it has stopped
moving around the tank and has become more full since I replaced
the lighting (I used the screen technique discussed on WWM to
acclimate my system to the new lighting). I tried to remove it to
my QT, but I wasn't successful and didn't want to damage
it. On a good note, my clown has pretty much left it alone. And,
on the upside, my mushrooms, tree corals and Xenia have NEVER
looked better/healthier--they are much more full--and I am very
glad I upgraded. Andy <I am very glad to see/read of your
improvements and benefitted livestock. Bob Fenner>
|
Mis-matched
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare,
Now Starving Anemone -- 1/05/07 Dear Bob/Crew, <Hi
Andy, Brenda here again.> This is a follow up to posts
to/from Brenda and Bob re: my BTA. Last night when I got
home from work, I noticed that my softies were retracted
tightly. <What are your water parameters?> Things
just didn't "look right". I started to worry
that my BTA may be getting ready to explode, as it did not
look good. <It does not look like it is ready to explode
to me. However, it is starving. In your first picture
(BTA1), above the mouth and to the left I see something
that looks like a possible injury. Has the anemone
previously been injured?> I also noticed that the BTA
had finally moved to a rock that I could remove--now I
could remove it to a separate tank without trying to pry
its foot off any rock. So, I removed the rock and
acclimated it into my QT (now lighted by a spare 2x54W T5
HO 10,000K strip light). <What size is this QT tank?
Keep a close eye on your water parameters.> The BTA
really does not look good at all. I've attached two
pics--it is now about 1.5" in diameter and is starting
to bleach. I tried to feed it some small pieces of
Selcon-soaked silverside (as I have done for weeks), but
the piece of fish eventually floated free. <This anemone
has not digested any food in weeks. Something is taking its
food, or it is regurgitating it later. What sized portions
are you feeding? I would try a super tiny piece of food
(sliver size), fed once daily until the anemone shows
improvement. Don't over feed, this will cause
regurgitation, and also cause more stress to the anemone.
If the anemone still does not accept the food, try some
Mysis shrimp. If that doesn't work, discontinue the
Selcon. Although it is rare, there are some anemones that
will not digest some foods. In addition to the above
information, it is not uncommon for anemones placed in a
new environment to not accept food. Just keep trying. Also,
is there any possibility that this anemone has previously
split in your tank? I am wondering if you had a second
anemone that went unnoticed. The fact that your anemone
quickly reduced in size and its previous stress, is reason
enough for me to believe this anemone may have cloned
itself. The fact that you came home to unusually stressed
coral makes me wonder if an anemone may have died in your
tank. Check your ammonia levels.> Do you think this BTA
can be saved with patience/no presence of cnidarians or
Clown, or is it likely too far gone? <It is not too far
gone, but it is in poor health. I have seen much worse
recover and thrive. It will however take a lot of
dedication and patience.> Thanks. <You're
welcome! Brenda>
Re: Update: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible
Chemical Warfare, Now Starving Anemone -- 1/05/07
Brenda, <Andy> Thanks for the response.
<You're welcome!> My verb choice was not good--by
"explode" I meant turn to goo. I am 99.9% sure
that this BTA did not split-ever. I have watched it closely
since I have owned it. My water parameters were and are:
ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, silicates, and phosphate are all
0, pH is 8.3, salinity is 1.025, temp. is 80.7*F, calcium
is 400, Alk is 3.5-4 mEq/L. In sum, nothing that would lead
me to believe that anything died in the tank. <Good! I
agree with ammonia of zero that nothing died.> Once I
removed the BTA, my softies were open and happy. I also
don't think it has suffered any trauma, although I
can't be sure. The important thing is that it is now in
QT/HT--30 gal long. <Is the anemone being kept with your
new Chelmon rostratus, also currently in QT? They are not
always the best tank mates. See here:
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=212&N=0
> I am changing water every day and checking parameters.
They are pretty close to my display, although salinity is
1.026. <Good!> I will try feeding very small pieces
of food/Mysis as you suggested and keep you posted. Thanks
again. Andy <You're welcome! Brenda>
Re: Update: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible
Chemical Warfare, Now Starving Anemone -- 1/06/07 Yes,
unfortunately it's the only extra tank I have. The
butterfly, which is small, pays no attention to the BTA (so
far). <You may want to consider creating a partition
using eggcrate.> Andy <Brenda
Re: Update: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible
Chemical Warfare, Now Starving Anemone -- 1/07/07 Good
morning Brenda. <Good morning Andy.> I will add a
separator today. I cannot get this BTA to eat and am
getting very frustrated. <Keep trying to feed daily.
Remove any uneaten food so you don't foul the tank.>
Today I tried Mysis. It will not even grab onto the food,
much less attempt to eat. <Turn off the flow for a bit
and place the food on the anemone, near its mouth.>
Andy
<Brenda>
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BTA Losing Tentacles - 5/18/2006
Hello WWM Crew, I've had a BTA for about 3 months now, during the
day he is wide open and looks good, in the evening he usually shrivels
up a bit. He is, and has always been, a very nice medium brown color
with a light glaze of florescent green around the tentacles. Suddenly
over the course of a day or two the tentacles near the inner part of
his disk are seeming to "twist" off at the base. Kind of like
making a balloon animal of his tentacles, then falling off. The outer
tentacles are fine and fully inflated, and he appears healthy apart
from the tentacles falling off... He has a healthy appetite and feeds
regularly twice a week on pieces of shrimp (which he greedily eats).
<Not too large bits I trust> My domino damsel has also hosted
him, and my ocellaris completely ignore him. Which from what I've
read is normal since ocellaris and BTA's aren't the best mix.
As far as water chemistry Salinity is 1.025, KH is 11, Ph is 8.3, Temp
is 80', Nitrite is 0, Ammonia is 0, Nitrate is 0, Phosphate is 0. I
have about 200W of VHO lighting A penguin hang on with BioWheel,
SeaClone Protein skimmer, and 2 wavemaker power heads creating in my
opinion sufficient flow through the aquarium. The tank has been setup
for about 7 months in our new location, and is a 29 gallon. Any
thoughts would be much appreciated! Thanks, Adam <Mmm, well...
something is not to this animal's liking... water quality likely...
but what of this? Water changes might help... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
and the "Systems", "Feeding" and
"Disease" linked files above. It's hard to keep such life
in small systems... Bob Fenner>
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