FAQs on Bulb, Bubble Tip/Rose Anemone
Disease Treatments
Related Articles:
Bubble Tip, Rose Anemones, Entacmaea quadricolor, Use in Marine Systems by Bob Fenner,
Bubble Tip Anemones by Jim Black,
Recent Experiences with BTA's by Marc Quattromani,
Anemones,
Cnidarians,
Colored/Dyed Anemones,
Related FAQs:
BTA Disease 1,
BTA Disease 2,
BTA Disease 3,
BTA Disease 4,
BTA Health 5,
BTA Health 6,
BTA Health 7,
BTA Health 8,
BTA Health 9,
BTA Health 10,
BTA Health 11,
BTA Health 13,
FAQs on BTA Disease by Category:
Diagnosing,
Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...),
Nutritional,
Social (e.g. Allelopathy),
Trauma,
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
Predatory/Pest,
& E. quad. FAQ 1,
E. quad FAQ 2,
E. quad. FAQ 3,
E. quad FAQ 4,
E. quad FAQ 5,
BTA ID,
BTA Compatibility,
BTA Selection,
BTA Behavior,
BTA Systems,
BTA Feeding,
BTA Reproduction/Propagation,
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New Print and
eBook on Amazon:
Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
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Opaque BTA tips? 12/12/17
G'Day guys,
>Dave<
Just saw Bob Jenners talk on Anemones from MACNA via YouTube.
Quick question....
I have several green BTAs that have slowly developed a whitish opaque look to
their bubble tips similar to the photos below.
<Happens at times>
Wondering if this is a sign of ill health or if there is something I should be
doing to correct it.
<Don't know the root cause here, what it portends, but would initiate iodide-ate
dosing and check overall water quality.>
I've kept these anemones for 3 years and they seem quite happy. Never move
around, they have multiplied several times and have the tank to themselves with
the exception of one pair of ocellaris clowns.
<Ah good>
They get a single Anemone pellet from Vitalis each once a week.
<I'd up this to one twice a week>
Any reply would be much appreciated.
Dave McAuliffe
Western Australia
<Bob Fenner>
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Re: Opaque BTA tips? 12/13/17
Thanks a million for the reply Bob,
I enjoyed your talk at MACNA.
<Ah, thank you for your kind words Dave. BobF>
Dave
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E. quadricolor colony health
10/13/11
Hi,
<Colby>
First off, thanks for all the work you do!
<Welcome>
Background: I have a 40g Breeder with roughly 30-40 Rose Bubble
Anemones.
<A bunch!>
Tank is well established and been running for quite some time. There
are no other Cnidarian inhabitants, only RBTA'S.
Lighting consists of two 70watt 14k HQI's and three 6500k
24'' HO T-5's.
Filtration consists of 30ish lbs live rock, HOB skimmer and two
maxi-jet driven sponge filters. Tank is heated to 80-82F with a heater
that is covered with plastic mesh in order to prevent any anemone
burns.
Additionally all pumps are securely covered, essentially tank is
anemone proof.
Water parameters:
SG = 1.026
pH = 8.3 (drops to 8.2 at night)
Ammonia and Nitrite zero. Nitrate less than 5ppm.
I do a 15% water change weekly, make myself using Distilled water and
Tropic Marin salt mix. Water is mixed, heated and aerated for 48 hours
prior to water change. Anemones are fed 2-3x weekly, usually with
frozen Mysid shrimp (thawed and rinsed), although recently I have been
feeding Tubifex worms, silversides and prawn eggs. Only tank
inhabitants are a pair of Black Ocellaris and a male mandarin (added 5
days ago, CB and readily eating frozen and pellet food).
Now the problem:
Several days ago I noticed 2 or 3 anemones deflating, and at least one
of those anemones has continued to stay fairly contracted with its
mouth wide open. Initially it seemed to coincide with feeding. My
concern is that one or two of the anemones may have an infection and
could spread it to the rest of the colony.
<Mmm, not an infection>
Now, I had fed all the anemones frozen prawn eggs that had been in my
freezer for quite some time. And I did view almost all the anemones
contracting and defecating, however they seemed to return to normal
size rapidly. It "seems" to me that as a whole the colony is
contracting and expanding more than usual,, though it is really most
apparent in one or two individuals. Is it possible I could have fed the
anemones bad food = bacterial infection?
<Nah>
Additionally I did for the first time in a while run carbon in the tank
for a few days abut a week ago, is it possible that the anemones may be
light shocked somewhat due to increased clarity of the water?
<Guess again>
Could the slime from the mandarin in anyway be annoying the
anemones?
<Nada>
I am fairly experienced, but a bit stumped here. I am inclined to
believe I may have a few sick anemones as the whole population seems to
be doing fine, which in my mind rules out environmental conditions.
<Ah no>
Is it likely/possible one or two of the anemones may be just having a
difficult time expelling the waste, and thus could be
expanding/contracting more than usual for a few days? And should I
remove the individuals in question to remove any chance of pathogen
spread? Or should I just leave things be?
<More water changes, selling/moving/trading out some of this
stock>
I apologize for the length of the email, and thanks in advance for the
question.
<Fine except for the premature assertions>
I look forward to hearing from you.
Colby
<Bob Fenner>
Re: E. quadricolor colony health 10/14/11
Mr. Fenner! Thank you so much for replying to me, I greatly appreciate
it.
<Welcome Colby>
As per your suggestion I will be setting up more tanks to move some out
of the 40 breeder. Aside from that can you think of any reasons I may
be seeing/perceiving a decline in a few of the specimens while all
others are thriving?
<I do think this is some sort of "negative feedback loop"
result... part of "a natural plan" (to put it teleologically)
for "moving out" life once it becomes too
concentrated>
Thanks.
<Welcome. BobF>
Re: E. quadricolor colony health 10/26/11
Hi again, follow up on my anemones. They undoubtedly have a bacterial
infection,
<?>
I have lost several of them and several more have fallen ill. Do you
have any additional suggestions? Any medications to try in a QT tank
etc?
<Medications on/for Actinarians? No. Have seen iodide/ate used,
restoration of adequate water chemistry make-up... BobF>
Thanks again for all your help!
Colby
Injured Anemone, Will it survive? E. quadricolor
-- 1/18/08 Hi WWM crew and thanks for several years of good
advice for weird situations. <Hello Tracy, Brenda here, and
you are welcome!> I have another question for you.
<Okay!> Context - 7 yr old stable 150gal reef w/ 10,000K MH
lighting and no real problems for a long time. Blennies, gobies,
clown, mushrooms, a few SPS, yellow polyp forest, pulsing xenia
that reproduce so madly they pay half my maintenance costs. <A
lot of mushrooms?> Crisis - My rose BTA (favorite thing in the
whole tank, had it 18 months, grew ~10x in size in that time,
skunk clown lives in it) had some sort of horrible, unexplained
accident yesterday. I found it in the overflow box with a piece
(~15%) torn off. <The anemone was not happy. It was looking
for a better place.> The mouth appears badly damaged, the
pedicle is fine, and tentacles are fine. The small piece is
really small, has only 5-10 tentacles on it & is mostly a
blown up balloon. I put both pieces in my refugium, assuming it
was going to die quickly but wanting to give it a chance.
<Many anemones survive this type of injury, including going
through powerheads. Protect all of your intakes. The recovery
process will depend greatly on the health of the anemone before
its injury. I do recommend a water change if you haven't
already.> Well, this morning, all the tentacles are out and
beautiful. The damage is still very severe, but neither piece is
dying quickly. <I'm not surprised.> I am wondering
where and how (if?) to try to rehabilitate it. <Provide it
with pristine water parameters and time.> My refugium has only
a PCF bulb (can't remember the wattage). I replace it every
year, it is bright enough to sustain an insanely thick garden of
Caulerpa, but I doubt it's bright enough for an anemone.
<No it is not. However, the anemone will be ok for a few days
without sufficient light. Moving it again will cause more stress.
For now, let us try to figure out why it moved in the first
place. Also, keep it away from all pumps in the refugium.> I
am obviously very leery of putting a mangled anemone back in the
main tank, where crabs & fish will pick on it; it will wander
restlessly into some bad situation & die in a corner where I
can't find it, etc. <What are you water parameters,
including temperature, salinity, ammonia, nitrates, nitrites,
calcium and alkalinity? How many watts of metal halide do you
have? I also need to know what skimmer and amount of flow you
have in the tank. How often do you feed the anemone, what size
portions, and what are you feeding?> What would you do with it
right now? <Leave the anemone where it is for now and try to
figure out the cause of it roaming. Running fresh carbon will
also help in the recovery.> Under what circumstances would you
feed it or put it back into the main tank? <The anemone is no
where near ready to eat. This will take some time, perhaps weeks
and will depend on the damage, previous health, and if you can
correct the initial problem quickly. You need to wait until the
anemone is completely healed before feeding. Trying to feed now
will only cause more stress.> A few answers in your archive
recommended Reef Dip for injured anemones. Do you think this is
important? <No, and it may be more harmful. I don't
recommend dips for anemones.> Thanks a lot. Tracy
<You're welcome! Brenda>
Re: Injured Anemone, Will it survive? E.
quadricolor -- 1/18/08 Hi Brenda & thanks for your reply.
<You're welcome!> My anemone had been in the same
place, happy, for many months, and growing very fast. I got him
in mid-2006 and he was about the size of a quarter, now bigger
than my hand. I feed mysis thawed in Selcon, 1 cube/week. <I
would feed smaller portions 2 -- 3 times a week. Over feeding can
cause stress. It can also cause the anemone to regurgitate
several hours later.> Not much has changed in the tank lately.
I did recently start adding strontium for some new small SPS
corals, about 3 weeks ago. <Are you testing these levels
before dosing?> Light: 2x 150w MH, 4x 54w actinics, total
watts=529 <Did this anemone typically stay up high in the
tank?> Temp usually 77 (chiller) <This is a bit low, try to
aim for 80 degrees, without going over 82. Increase temperature
slowly.> Sg=1.026 NH3, NO2, NO3=0 KH=8 (constant battle to get
higher, but usually 8 no matter what I do) <A dKH of 8 is an
acceptable range. I would not go much higher, if any. I would
check your magnesium. If you are having trouble maintaining
calcium and alkalinity levels, low magnesium may be the cause. An
abrupt change in alkalinity will cause stress to anemones. So use
caution here!> Ca=450 I actually don't have any intakes or
powerheads in the tank, just a fast/powerful main pump with 2
returns in the tank. <No powerheads!!! Yeah!!! You have no
idea how seldom I hear that! I am a strong believer in not
keeping anemones with powerheads. Congrats to you for not using
powerheads!> The anemone must have dived over the top of the
overflow box, there's no other way in there! <Anemones can
get through very small spaces when flow/suction is involved.
I've seen them get sucked into a rather thick sponge filter
on a powerhead.> I have ~20 mushrooms. I'm about to sell
half of them and 1/3 of my basketball-sized xenia colony. Perhaps
this will cut down on some of the chemical warfare that probably
stresses the anemone. <Removing some of the mushrooms will
help with chemical warfare.> I have carbon and a poly filter
running all the time (time to change, about 2 months old).
<Yes, carbon is only useful for a few weeks at best.> No
skimmer, just a 20gal sump full of Caulerpa and detritivores
(pump & turbulence segregated at one end by a screen). <I
do recommend you purchase a reputable skimmer. This is one very
important piece of equipment for any reef tank.> I'll do a
20% water change tonight and will take any other suggestions you
have. How long do you think I can leave it in the refugium before
the low light starts to impact its recovery ability? <This is
hard to say. Some can go a few weeks or even a few months with
inadequate lighting.> I don't want to go overboard with
the quarantine and end up doing even more damage. <I
understand. I would try giving the anemone 3 or 4 more days and
then re-evaluate. Send me an update on it and I will help you
decide. If things suddenly worsen during this time, let me know
as soon as possible. Keep in mind that when this anemone does go
back to the tank, it will need to be acclimated to the light. It
may also immediately go into hiding (normal) or roam again so you
will need to monitor it. Also, if you can, send me a picture of
the anemone. If you are a member of a local reef club, you may be
able to find someone willing to let you borrow some PC lighting
to put over the sump during this time. You may also want to
consider purchasing some back up lighting. Keeping the anemone in
its current location as long as possible will help greatly. If
you need help finding a local club, let me know. I will find out
what is available in your area.> Tracy <Good luck! I'll
keep my fingers crossed for you! Brenda>
Re: Injured Anemone, Will it survive? E. Quadricolor --
1/26/08 Update and need to move? The anemone(s) are
looking good. Moving around a bit, staying small, and no
necrosis. <Yeah!!!> I have attached pics. It's
been a week. The question of course is what to do now. I
would like to leave them in the refugium for their whole
convalescence if possible, then sell the small one &
reintroduce the big one once they can eat. <You would
need to buy additional lighting to keep them in there much
longer. They are already showing signs of hunger and loss
of zooxanthellae. Unless you can provide better lighting in
the next 2 -- 3 days, I would move them now.> In the
refugium, they sit on the top of a Caulerpa forest just
under the water surface. I gave them a glass bowl to sit in
but they moved out. Ironically, there is a dreaded
powerhead in there; otherwise it stagnates because the
screen holes are small to keep in the Caulerpa. This
weekend I will move the powerhead to the other side of the
screen and just use a hose to get the same flow. The intake
is buried deep in Caulerpa so low risk, but not zero risk.
I took apart the refugium light to read the label -
it's a Coralife 6700k 96 watt PCF bulb, last changed
5/07. They are about 7 inches from the bulbs. In the main
tank they were always in the exact middle. How long do you
think they can be healthy with that wattage? <I would go
ahead and move them now. I would not take a chance on
having them deteriorate.> Usually this light stays on
24/7, but I've been giving them a 12hr light/dark cycle
like the main tank, do you agree with that? <Yes, no
need for a refugium light to be on 24/7.> As for your
other questions - I don't have Strontium or Magnesium
test kits, and just add Strontium. This is one of those
"don't fix what isn't broke" things.
I've never tested for those in 7 yrs. <It is a bad
practice to dose anything without testing. Since you just
recently started dosing Strontium, it may be contributing
to the anemone roaming.> If you think high or low levels
could be affecting the anemones, I could test, which kits
do you recommend for those? <You should be testing
Calcium, Alkalinity and Magnesium. If your going to dose
Strontium, you need to test it before dosing.> How do I
decide when to feed? Give them x number of weeks looking
good, then try a few mysis? Wait till I can clearly see
nice round mouths in each one? (The little one was mostly
mouth, the big one had most of its mouth ripped out).
<They don't appear to be badly damage in the
picture. I would go ahead and try feeding a very small
piece of food (sliver size). If it takes it, I would try
another tiny piece the next day. I would also get some
window screen and put over your tank for a week or so, to
acclimate the anemone to the lighting.> Thanks for
ongoing advice. Tracy <You're welcome! Brenda>
Re: Injured Anemone, Will it survive? E. Quadricolor
-- 1/28/08 <Hello Tracy, Brenda here!> A few
developments: <Okay!> I talked with several guys from
the Atlanta Reef Club. They all thought that 96 watts over
17 inches (quad bulb) should be fine for anemones for
longer than a week, and wondered if I just needed a new
bulb. <It is possible, but we are already dealing with
an unhealthy, injured anemone. I don't want to see the
health decline any more. We are at the 10 day mark
already.> So I did a little more looking at my setup.
The bulb I had was indeed 96 watt PCF and only 7 months
old, but it had no actinic component! So I replaced it with
a new 96 watt 6700k 50/50 bulb. Do you think the lack of an
actinic component could have caused loss of zooxanthellae
that quickly? <No, the loss of zooxanthellae is not
caused by the lack of actinic. A bulb without the actinic
would be a better choice, yet still not sufficient, in this
case.> If not, I can still move to the main tank but at
least now they will have a day or 2 at a higher light level
to help them acclimate. <You have actually decreased the
lighting by adding the actinic.> I fed them both -
turned off the flow and dropped a mysis right in the middle
of them. The big one eventually, after 5-10 minutes, ate 2
mysis and I see there is a well-healed mouth. <Two mysis
shrimp may be a bit much for this anemone. I would try just
one for now.> I also got him to stick on a small rock,
which will make moving him easier. <Good sign!> The
little one didn't react to the food at all, didn't
close up around it, eventually it fell off and was eaten by
an Aiptasia nearby. <Yikes! The nearby Aiptasia are not
doing the little guy any favors. It needs to be kept away
from the Aiptasia. An unhealthy anemone will not be able to
compete with them.> I am especially reluctant to lose
this tiny one in the tank if it is weak and not eating.
What do you think? <I would move return them both to the
main tank. I feel that the main tank is a better
choice.> Tracy
<Brenda>
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