FAQs on Corydoras Cat Parasitic
Disease
FAQs on: Corydoras
Catfish Health 1, Cory Disease 2,
Cory Disease 3,
Cory Disease 4,
FAQs on Corydoras Catfish Disease by Category:
Environmental,
Nutritional (e.g. HLLE),
Social, Infectious (Virus,
Bacterial, Fungal), Genetic,
Treatments,
Related Articles:
Callichthyid Catfishes,
Summer loving: cats in the garden, kittens in
the kitchen by Neale Monks,
FAQs on:
Corydoras Catfish 1,
Corydoras Catfish Identification,
Corydoras Catfish Behavior,
Corydoras Catfish Compatibility,
Corydoras Catfish Stocking/Selection,
Corydoras Catfish Systems,
Corydoras Catfish Feeding,
Corydoras Catfish Reproduction,
FAQs on: Panda
Corydoras, Pygmy Corydoras spp.,
FAQs on: Callichthyids
1, Callichthyids 2,
FAQs on: Callichthyid
Identification, Callichthyid
Behavior, Callichthyid
Compatibility, Callichthyid
Selection, Callichthyid
Systems, Callichthyid
Feeding, Callichthyid
Disease, Callichthyid
Reproduction, Catfish:
Identification,
Behavior,
Compatibility,
Selection,
Systems,
Feeding,
Disease,
Reproduction,
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Costia on Bandit Cory(s), invert safe treatments?
5/27/15
Hi, I have a planted 65 gal tank 4 years+ running with honey gouramis, kuhli
loaches, Hengle's Rasboras, bandit Cory's, Amano shrimp, Nerite snails, Oto
cats. I think the Oto cats brought in disease and I had some loses of livestock
and then things seemed to stabilize with no more dying fish. Some of the Cory
cats, one in particular, have gray slime on them that seems to be 'Costia'.
<Costia, now called Ichthyobodo, is an awkward parasite for sure. It's one of
the causes of Slime Disease, though not the only one, so do be aware of that.
Curiously, but significantly, Costia is harmlessly present in most tanks, and
only becomes problematic when the fish become stressed. So it's important to try
and think of why that might be the case. In any case, there are various
proprietary treatments out there, such as eSHa 2000 (no formalin or copper),
QuickCure (has formalin in it though) and Interpet Anti Slime and Velvet (this
latter also contains formalin). Otherwise, apart from formalin (which does
indeed work well against Costia) any metrifonate-based medication should work
well.>
I have gradually turned the heat up from 77 F to 83 F. The slime seems less on
the worst Cory but still there. I can't net them out of the tank, too many
obstacles. The invertebrates make using most of the medications recommended for
Costia not safe to use.
<Indeed. Anything with copper or formalin in it may be toxic to shrimps, snails,
and potentially sensitive fish including loaches and catfish. So you've got
problems.>
Is there anything else that I can/should be doing? Does Paraguard have any
effect on Costia?
<Paraguard has a chemical similar to formaldehyde in it, so wouldn't be an
obvious choice for use with your community of species.>
Prazi-pro did not help at all.
<Obviously not. It's a dewormer.>
Thanks,
Jeff
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Costia on Bandit Cory(s), invert safe treatments?
5/28/15
I'm not sure if I can get eSHa 2000 here in Canada. I'll look around.
<Or order online, via eBay, etc.>
The inverts in this tank have been through Paraguard treatment before without
losses. I've never had it obviously cure anything, but if you think it would
have a chance at Costia I'm willing to try it. I have a bottle handy. Should I
adjust the dose for the Cory cats or Otto's?
<Adjusting doses down is fairly pointless. Generally the dose stated on the
bottle is the dose needed to kill the parasite. Half doses might work, but then
again, they might not. You could consult with the manufacturer for
guidance. SeaChem do have an FAQ, here:
http://www.seachem.com/support/FAQs/ParaGuard.html
They don't sell this product as "reef safe" as you can see, which means it might
be toxic to invertebrates... but then again, it might not! That's probably about
as sure a reply as you're going to get on this product.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Costia on Bandit Cory(s), invert safe treatments?
5/29/15
I tried the Prazi-pro first because I thought it might be skin flukes. I'll try
the Paraguard after I do a water change on the weekend and see if that helps. If
I go much higher with the water temps I am going to lose some plants.
I'll let you know if it seems to do anything.
Thanks, Jeff
<You're welcome, Neale.>
Cory catfish with skin peel (RMF,
Costia?)<<Maybe, or just water quality>>
1/23/11
I have looked over the site for two days now and commend you on
how well you cover everything.
<Thanks.>
I saw one post addressing this issue while I was searching, but
most of the similar posts deal with other fish and not Corys. In
the meantime, I lost two yesterday and another one tonight. I had
a dozen, several of them regular breeders, and I am afraid I am
going to lose more. Tonight I see two more with the beginnings of
this strange "disease."
<I see.>
I have a 55 gal freshwater tank, a community of mostly tetras,
Danios, and Corys. Ammonia is 0; nitrites 0; nitrates 160; ph
7.0; temp 72*. General hardness 180 and Carbonate hardness 0.
<<I doubt this>>
<All sounds fine.>
I usually test with both test strips and chemicals in "test
tubes" of tank water. About a month ago, I took the tank
down about 1/3rd, cleaning the filter, siphoning debris from the
gravel, etc. I waited and then
introduced some new tetras, Danios, and plants to the tank -
would have been a few weeks ago. Threw about a pinch or two of
aquarium salt in the tank. (Why? I don't know. It's the
first time I've ever done that.)
<Indeed. Salt is much overrated and misunderstood.>
I have had fish for over 50 years (!) and have never seen my
Corys get sick and die like they are now. I need your help!
I have attached two photos for you to see. This
"disease" begins as a small spot of white (not cottony
and not like Ick) then begins to spread like a blotch. It looks
like the skin has died; it has turned white and
appears to be peeling like a sunburn would. I added a fungus
treatment last night (Jungle "Fungus Clear" with
Nitrofurazone, Furazolidone, and potassium dichromate). This
afternoon, I took the tank down about 8 gallons, refilled with
treated water (I use API "Stress Coat"), and added a
large circular air stone. Everyone looked chipper and the Corys
were swimming and playing, but a short while ago my "big
mama" (the one in the photos) gave up and died. Please help
me and my Cory "kittens".
<I think this is Slime Disease, also known as Costia. It's
quite tricky to fix, but you should be able to find a medication
sold in your area that works. Do note that while Formalin works,
it's quite toxic to catfish (as
well as most other fish, to some degree or another) so isn't
recommended. Raising the temperature to 30 degrees C can stress,
even kill, Slime Disease, but this can also stress your fish, so
be careful if you choose to use this method.>
Thank you so much! Anna
<Cheers, Neale.>
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Re: Cory catfish with skin peel (RMF, Costia?)
1/23/11
Thank you so very much! Being Sunday here, we are out a bit
today, but will stop at the pet store on the way home and see
what we can get. The young man I spoke with yesterday at PetSmart
has several large community tanks, and he didn't think it was
fungal either. Man, I was hitting every resource I could think of
during the past two days. As I said, yours was the best - I just
didn't see this covered in a way I could readily apply it to
my situation. Thank you so much for your quick answer!
<Glad to help.>
As there is Fungus Clear in there now, do I need to take the tank
down by half or anything?
<Would do a water change, a good 30% or so, but otherwise
there's no need to do anything special.>
I went back on your website and read a few articles about Costia
(now that I know what I'm dealing with), and saw an article
penned by Neale Monks.
Is that, perchance, you?
<Yes, indeed.>
Awesome!! (Not that it makes a difference to the discussion
at-hand, but I am a Scot-Irish American - Clan Cameron.)
<Interesting to know.>
Anna
<Good luck, Neale.>
Re: Cory catfish with skin peel 1/24/11
Thanks again, dear Dr.! I stopped at PetSmart, got "Triple
Sulfate"
(sodium sulfathiazole, sodium sulfamethazine, and sodium
sulfacetamide). I mentioned to the lovely lady there that the
Corys are vulnerable to salt (sodium.) Being that there is no
caution note on the container, this is what she recommended. What
do you think? Safe to use?
Anna
<Hello Anna. Corydoras aren't vulnerable to sodium as
such, but to sodium chloride if the salt concentration is too
high -- though contrary to what inexperienced fishkeepers
believe, they aren't "allergic" to low salt
concentrations such as those used to treat Whitespot. In fact the
salt/heat method treats Whitespot on Corydoras safely and
effectively. In any case, the product you bought should be safe
to use because the sodium compounds are not sodium chloride and
won't affect salinity. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Cory catfish with skin peel 1/24/11
<PS. Do see Bob's comment on the Daily FAQs that water
quality may be an issue, and worth reviewing. Excess mucous
production can occur when Corydoras are stressed by their
environment. The fact you reported zero carbonate hardness is
surprising, and as Bob noted, unlikely; or if you really do have
zero carbonate hardness, perhaps by using water from a domestic
water softener, the resulting water is unhealthy and likely to
experience very rapid pH changes (drops into the acidic range,
usually) between water changes. Review this aspect too. Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: Cory catfish with skin peel 1/24/11
Thank you so very much for this and the other note! I will go
look at Bob's comments on the FAQs - but will have to do it
on my lunch break as I am headed off to work this morning. I do
not have a domestic water softener, and was using a test strip.
hope that it was accurate, but I'll check that again this
morning.
<Okeley dokely.>
I'll start the treatment on the aquarium this morning before
I go. The package indicates 4 treatments with a 25% water change
in between, an expensive treatment of about $30 so I sure hope it
takes care of the problem.
<Yowsers! But as we point out repeatedly here, prevention is
better than cure. Find fish suitable for your water chemistry,
water temperature, and experience level. Kept right, fish rarely
get sick.>
Worth it, though, if I don't lose any more Corys. Again,
thank you so much!
<Glad to help. Cheers, Neale.>
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Strange nub near gills
05/21/09
Hello!
I have an established 30 gallon tank that I recently added 3
Sterba's Corys to. They all seem happy and healthy (eating,
bumbling and foraging), though the largest one has a strange orange nub
growing near his gills on one side (same color as his fins). I
don't have a quarantine tank so I'm hoping it's not
something contagious, and if it's something that can be cleared up
I want take care of it before it progresses. I don't know of any
parasites that would show up as that bright orange color. The gill
cover doesn't appear distended, and otherwise has normal
coloration. Water parameters and ph are normal, substrate is fine
gravel, and there are plenty of hiding places among the plants and
logs. They seem to be
adjusting with minimal stress, and I'd like to see them remain
healthy and happy. Do you have any suggestions as to what might be
causing this nub?
Could it just be some sort of benign tumor, or should I be treating the
tank for something else? I didn't find any specific information
online, and I'm hoping you might have some insight.
Thanks for your help,
Eve
<Hello Eve. I've not come across this problem with Corydoras,
and it isn't one for which I can offer much useful help. If the
thing is clearly a cyst or benign tumour, i.e., looks like swelling
rather than an attached parasite, then there isn't much you can do.
If the animal is otherwise healthy, then you can ignore it. It
certainly can't be cured (removed) without veterinarian help. A
more serious problem is if the thing is a Microsporidean parasite such
as Glugea, which I'm dealing with at the moment with some
Sticklebacks. This looks like a swelling divided up into a few small
"bubbles", and is very distinctive; see for example the
advanced case show here:
http://www.cob.lu.se/microsporidia/proj_descr.html
Most parasites require an intermediate host not present in aquaria, so
do not spread, but Glugea, like Ick, can spread from one fish to
another. As such, it is best to remove infected fish, and ideally
euthanise them (described elsewhere on WWM).
Cheers, Neale.>
Cory problem I have 37 gallon community tank
set up that is just getting back to full speed after a store whose name
I won't mention, but whose initials are WM. sold me a Pleco with a
virulent case of Ich that was not obvious when I purchased him.
<Happens... all the time> Despite aggressive treatment, I lost
all my fish (some of which I had had for years) except for 4 rosy barbs
(tough little suckers) most on a horrific night where I lost one an
hour. Anyway, I do have a point. Over the last 3 months, I have been
adding back fish mostly tiger barbs (9 of them now) from a reputable
LFS. I recently added two green Cory cats, but noticed that one of them
has what appears to be tumors. Two on it's side and one on it's
tail. The ones on the side appear to be under the scales or the same
color as the scales. All are rather perfectly round and small about the
size of a bb. Do you have any idea what this could be, how I can treat
it and if it is contagious? Any help would be appreciated. I don't
want a repeat of what happened a few months ago. Thanks so much. You
guys have always been a great help! <I do have a pretty strong
suspicion re the identification of these spots... they're either
encysted worms (likely nematodes) or Microsporideans... either way not
really treatable nor catching. No problem. Glad to see/state that you
stayed in the hobby. Bob Fenner>
Treating Corydoras paleatus in main tank
8/24/05 Hi again, I have a question about treating my main tank for
Ich. I have a 10 gallon tank with 4 peppered Corys in it right now.
I've recently moved my 3 goldfish into another 10 gallon tank and
don't know if I want to keep it as a QT tank or keep them in there
for good. <... you were keeping Callichthyid (tropical) catfish with
coldwater goldfish?> I also moved my 4th goldfish into a temporary
3? gallon tank. I plan on either giving that one away to a friend or a
pet store because it's getting way too big and it's pretty
aggressive towards one of my goldfish. I know... too many goldfish for
a 10 gallon tank haha <Ahh, not funny...> I didn't know/read
about fish when I got them for my birthday so here I am with too many.
<Very common> Now I'm trying to get rid of them. Anyways the
goldfishes are being treated for Ich in the other tank right now but I
don't know what to do about the Ich that could be in my main tank
and my Corys. I want to just treat them in the main tank but I heard
Ich med kills the beneficial bacteria. <Likely so> I wanted to
try treating the tank with salt but I don't know how well my Corys
would do in it. <Don't like> Is there a way to treat my main
tank with my Corys still in it without the risk of any dying? <Half
dose/s, elevated temperature> They are doing really well and I
don't want to jeopardize their lives. And does salt kill the
beneficial bacteria? <Yes, can> Whenever I treat fish in a QT
tank they always seem to get so sluggish and I don't know if
I'm doing it right or not. <Good question, speculation> Oh
and one more thing! This is just for the future if I wanted to keep
other fish. I want to add 2 more Corys to the 4 that are already in the
tank. Will any kind do or should I stick with peppered Corys? <Can
mix> I would also like to add a few fish that aren't bottom
feeders. Which kind would do well with Corys and also won't make my
tank overstocked? Thank you so much your help. It's great to know
that I have a reliable source to direct my questions to! Wayne <Read
on my young friend... re livestock selection, Ich... the latter here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwich.htm and the
linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Wormlike parasite 5/30/07 Hello there,
<Good morning> I have a problem with two Bronze Catfish, they
seem to have a parasite that I can't identify. One of the Bronze
Cats is new, I've had it for a few days. My tanks isn't very
old (less than two months, but I have been monitoring it closely and it
has cycled). It is a 90 litre tank (24 ish gallons). Currently my temp
is 79, pH is 6.8 , ammonia 0, nitrites 0 (I only tested for nitrates
once about three weeks ago and there were none, the tank is quite
heavily planted so I'm guessing whatever nitrates have been
produced are being used up or removed during water changes). I
don't think that water quality is affecting the fish, but
nevertheless the Bronze Cats seem to have extremely tiny, whitish,
wormy looking things attached to the very ends of their fins, they are
difficult to see with the naked eye. There don't seem to be any on
their bodies, they just seem to be on the ends of the fins, hanging
like little tassels that move when the fish are swimming. They are very
small, they must be less than a mm long. There seem to be more on the
newest Bronze Cat, but I believe that the other bronze has caught them
now too because I noticed a few today ( I'm afraid that they are
spreading). I have 2 Pepper Cats and two Sterbai Cats and they seem
unaffected, none of the other fish in the tank seem affected either
(Neons, Gouramis, SAE etc.). These parasites don't seem to be
bothering the fish so far (no clamped fins, scratching or heavy
breathing) but I know that this could change. These two Bronze Cats
also seem to each have another problem as well ( I know this is getting
boring but I think it's better to get all the details out in the
open). My older Bronze Cat is a long finned variety, very pretty, but I
think that someone likes the look of his magnificent dorsal fin because
sometimes it suddenly looks munched or shredded. It heals readily and
does not seem to get infected so I don't think that it's fin
rot. I don't keep any 'aggressive' fish in my tank, but
maybe a naughty baby Clown Loach might have nipped him? ( Who knows
what any of the fish get up to when the lights are off?). The newer
Bronze seems to have lost the barbels on one side of his mouth, it
doesn't look infected. This seems to have happened quite suddenly
as well ( it was while I was inspecting this that I noticed the
parasites). I think that the barbel may have been damaged during
feeding. I try to break up a few small sinking wafers for all my bottom
feeders to have an even chance but I have still noticed that the Clown
Loaches are pretty dominating at feeding time. My Betta also gets quite
aggressive as well. Could the barbels have been severed during a
feeding frenzy? I realise that the parasite and the injuries may be
related because the fish may be more susceptible to infection if
they're injured. But do you have any idea what the parasites are
and how to treat them? <Mmm, microscopic examination would be the
route to go here, but likely some type of Fluke (Trematode)> My
other issue is with a new Blue Ram. I bought a male and a female (they
get along well) and it is the female who is looking rough. She has got
small white patches on her body and fins. They aren't Ich spots but
they don't look cottony or fluffy either. Could they be a fungus
infection that is just starting out? Or is it bacterial? <Impossible
to state for sure... but the fish being new, I would be very
conservative here re treatment> I don't know what to treat with.
I have a malachite green/Methylene blue/quinine solution which is meant
to be a sort of 'cure all' tonic, <The Malachite is quite
toxic... I would hold off for now> but I am afraid to use it with
the Clown Loaches being in the tank now, and I don't want to
destroy my biological filtration either. Would the medicine that I have
be suitable to treat the worm parasites and the fungus or would you
recommend something else? Should I treat the whole tank? ( I don't
have a QT but could do a short soak in a bucket?) Sorry this is so long
but I would really appreciate any advice you could offer. Kind regards,
Jessica in New Zealand <I would treat the worm problem with an
Anthelminthic (likely Flubenol or Prazi(quantel)... covered on WWM (see
the indices, search tool)... and the current problem with the Ram...
not at all, other than maintaining good (soft, acidic, warm) water
quality. Bob Fenner>
Re: wormlike parasite continued 5/31/07 Hi WWM, <Jessica>
Thank you Bob for your reply regarding my unidentified 'worms'.
Before receiving your reply I went to my LFS to buys some plants and
asked them about the worms. The parasite description stumped the staff
there but one of them eventually decided that I should try
Praziquantel. He said it was what they used to treat parasites on their
discus so we figured it was worth a go. <Yes> I bought some of
the Praziquantel but I waited to hear what your suggestions would be
(no offense to my LFS, just thought you guys would have had more
experience with parasite ID's). Imagine how great it was to hear
two different sources suggest the same treatment! I used the
Praziquantel this morning (on the whole tank as I believe it was
spreading to all my catfish) and it looks like the parasites have
already come off the fish's fins. I can't see them anymore. So
I'm guessing that the Praziquantel made the parasite fall off of
their hosts? <Very possibly> I was given two doses and told to
use the second one in a week's time, would you recommend this and
should I do my usual weekly water change (about 15-20%) beforehand?
<I do recommend both> I also wondered if I could use some MelaFix
to help my Blue Ram? <Mmm... not really worthwhile> Whatever is
ailing her seems to be getting worse, I'm still not sure if
it's a bacteria or a fungus. <Likely water quality...> She
just seems to have small, white clumps on her body and fins (they are
different to the parasite that was on my catfish), some of them are
looking a bit stringier (still not cottony/fluffy though) than they did
before so maybe this is a fungus? <Do see Google re Lymphocystis...
pix...> She's also looking a bit more 'clamped' than she
was before, still feeding and reasonably active though. Her partner
looks fantastic and they seem happy together, he is not beating her up
and neither is anyone else. Maybe the male was a bit aggressive in the
bag on the way home from the store (although it wasn't a long trip
and I didn't see anything amiss), or maybe she was already sick at
the store. The stock there all looked pretty good and my water
chemistry seems suited to their requirements. I'm not sure
what's making her sick, but I'm worried that she's getting
worse and maybe the MelaFix would be a milder course of action (rather
than the malachite/Methylene/quinine tonic that I have). <Neither
one is suggested> I'm aware that the MelaFix may not have an
effect on whatever is making her sick, but I just thought it would be
worth a try if it was safe to mix with the Praziquantel. I've done
a ton of research on both of these today, but I haven't seen
anything saying whether you could mix them or not. At least now I know
more about them on their own :-) <Can be mixed... but the
"Fix" product is just a "tea"... soaked Melaleuca
leaves... at best it might lower the pH here> A third and completely
unrelated question is that I have two Honey Dwarf Gouramis
(Trichogaster chuna), a male and a female. <Ahh! One of my favorite
species> They seem to get along apart from the odd brief chase here
and there, which I'm sure is natural. Today (before dosing the
Praziquantel) I noticed that the male has darkened up considerably on
his ventral area. It is a section that runs from under his mouth and
eyes, just under his pectoral fins, along past his bottom and into his
fins (anal fin? pelvic fin?). It's actually quite a defined,
diagonal line. The colour seems to be a mottled black pigmentation and
it extends around his belly. I've seen him blow a few bubbles at
the surface, but no bubble nest building. Is he trying to impress his
lady friend? Or could this be a sign of something else? <Likely is
reproductive/stress color change...> Again, thank you for your time.
I'm glad that there are credible websites like yours for people to
turn to with their queries. Jessica <Welcome my friend. BobF>
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