FAQs on
Colisa lalia, C. chuna... "Dwarf"
Gouramis of Many Names, Honey, Flames, Neon Blue, Sunset
Fire... Disease/Health 6
FAQs on Dwarf Gourami Disease:
Dwarf Gourami Disease
1, Dwarf Gourami
Disease 2, Dwarf
Gourami Disease 3,
Dwarf Gourami Disease 4,
Dwarf Gourami Disease 5,
Dwarf Gourami
Disease 7,
FAQs on Dwarf Gourami Disease by Category:
Diagnosis,
Environmental,
Nutritional,
Genetic,
Infectious
(Virus, Bacterial, Fungal),
Parasitic,
Social,
Treatments,
Related Articles:
Anabantoids/Gouramis &
Relatives, Genera Ctenopoma
& Microctenopoma,
Betta
splendens/Siamese Fighting Fish,
Related FAQs: Dwarf Gouramis,
Dwarf Gourami Identification,
Dwarf Gourami Behavior,
Dwarf Gourami Compatibility,
Dwarf Gourami Selection,
Dwarf Gourami Systems,
Dwarf Gourami Feeding,
Dwarf Gourami Reproduction, & FAQs on:
Gouramis 1,
Gouramis 2,
Gourami Identification,
Gourami Behavior,
Gourami Compatibility,
Gourami Selection,
Gourami Systems,
Gourami Feeding,
Gourami Disease,
Gourami Reproduction,
Betta splendens/Siamese
Fighting Fish,
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Help 3/6/20
Hi,
Could you please tell me what is wrong with my dwarf gourami?
It's looking rather unwell, I have attached some photos. The tank has been
setup for over 12 years, it's a 500 litre tank, we have neon tetras, tiger
barbs, clown loach, red tailed shark, Raphael catfish, penguin tetra, common
Plec, bristle nose Plec, mollies, all the other fish appear to be OK.
Many thanks, Jo
<Hello Jo. I'm going to direct you to a little reading first:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/dwfgdis.htm
Dwarf Gouramis are a difficult species. In theory they're great: small,
colourful, very well behaved, and easy to obtain from almost any aquarium
shop. However, the species is very commonly affected by a viral
infection (known as Dwarf Gourami Iridovirus) as well as being prone to
bacterial infections (Mycobacteria) that are difficult if not impossible to
cure.
There may be an element of stress going on, Dwarf Gouramis needing soft,
acidic water that's fairly warm (26-28 C) but without much current. But
there does seem to be more to it than that, with vets finding the virus
latent in large numbers of fish farms in Singapore. Short answer to your
question then, unless you can find obvious evidence for something else --
such as Finrot or Fungus, neither of which your photos are sharp enough to
reveal -- I'd not hold out much hope. Certainly, feel free to use a good
antibiotic (or failing that, an antibacterial like eSHa 2000, though these
are even less reliable here). Optimise living conditions and diet, of
course, and review your tankmates to make sure there's no aggression that
could be causing stress or bite-marks. Beyond that, not sure I can offer any
easy answers. Regards, Neale.>
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Re: Help 3/7/20
Thank you for your reply email, I've taken another look at it and it's
feelers seem to be much shorter, less than half the size of the other dwarf
gourami, I've tried to get a better picture, the white spec is something in
the water passing by not on the fish. Does fungus always appear as white
marks on the fish?
Many thanks, jo
<Erosion of the 'feelers' (the pelvic fins) in Gouramis is generally taken
as Finrot, and needs to be treated accordingly. But the white patches on the
body are more similar to bacterial infections, including Mycobacteria.
DGIV is another possibility. Fungus invariably looks like patches of cotton
wool, so is easily recognised. Regards, Neale.>
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Parasites 7/18/19
Hello, great site, I am treating dwarf gourami for internal parasite,
<Which one? There are several different types! Each requires specific
treatment. What works for worms won't work with Hexamita, for example.>
lost three fish, using tetra all in one treatment, been treating 8-9 days
now,
<Anything sold as "all-in-one" isn't likely to be entirely reliable, anymore
than a medicine sold at your local drugstore that promised to be a cure-all
probably won't be much use.>
have malachite green but don't want to use in tank, maybe a dip if possible?
<Dips of any/all kinds are for treating external parasites. Of no value at
all if you are genuinely dealing with internal parasites.>
Added salt,
<Again, useful for treating external infections in specific situations
(Whitespot comes to mind) but otherwise either useless or even harmful.>
did a big water change
<Always useful, provided not diluting any medication: would recommend only
changing water (at least) 24 hours after dosing tank, so that each dose of
medicine has time to work.>
two days ago and continued using tetra , help is needed, I get bad info from
Petco specialist.
<I'm sure there's variation, but on the whole, the big pet store chains tend
to have sales clerks rather than actual experts, so unless the clerk you're
speaking to is a genuinely experienced hobbyist -- and some are -- I'd tend
to "trust, but verify" any information shared by most of their staff.>
Thank you so much, I'm Ray, hope to hear from you soon.
<Let's return to the sick fish, the Dwarf Gourami, what was called Colisa
lalia for many years, but is apparently Trichogaster lalius. This originally
lovely fish has been mass produced and inbred over decades, and the
resulting specimens are very poor quality. Viral infections ("DGIV" or Dwarf
Gourami Iridovirus) that cause wasting and lesions are extremely common,
nearly universal in some cases (the ones exported from Singapore are
notorious). There's no treatment. Furthermore, when stressed, these
fish appear to be extremely prone to Mycobacteria infections. Again, there's
no treatment. Symptoms including wasting, lethargy, spinal deformities, loss
of colour, and eventually death. Nothing you dose the
tank with will help. Now, you haven't told me what symptoms your fish has,
nor what you suspect the fish to be suffering from, so I can't really offer
any advice. But as a general observation, Dwarf Gouramis (unless locally
bred) are best avoided in lieu of much hardier, but similar-looking, species
such as the Thick Lipped Gourami and the Banded Gourami. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Parasites 7/20/19
Hello, thanks so much for your help,
<Welcome.>
I have a powder blue dwarf gourami left, my fire just died, my honey died,
and my neon died...
<These are all varieties of Colisa lalia, or at least hybrids between that
species and Colisa chuna. Either way, not much to choose between them in
terms of healthiness. All best avoided, really.>
I have an opal and another type I forget, but two are not dwarf, and a Cory
catfish.,....
<Opaline Gourami is a different species, Trichopodus trichopterus, that is
usually hardy but sometimes aggressive.>
They had clear poop lines, long, didn't eat..hid... Acted old and crippled.
<See previous emails re: this symptom. Cheers, Neale.>
Dwarf Gourami dilemma. Trauma; BGK incomp. 4/17/17
Hi WWM Crew:
<Hello Kimberly,>
I love your site, I've found a whole trove of fabulous information here. Thanks
for all you've done.
<Thanks for the kind words!>
Houston, I have a problem. A little background, before I get into the current
situation. You may want to get comfy, it's a long story. My husband is a rather
amateur fishkeeper, although (with my research, albeit after the fact at times)
he has become a lot more proficient. He's been fishkeeping for a little over a
year, now. He's caught the "bug".
<Ah, yes, does happen!>
My husband has a few tanks. By a few, I mean 7. In a 38gal tank, he had 1 Dwarf
Gourami (the fish I'm writing about), 11 Harlequin Rasbora (since moved to their
own hexagon tank), 4 Corydoras Catfish, 3 Otocinclus, a few snails, a Bumblebee
catfish (Asian, I believe, though has since been returned to the LFS), and 3
pot-bellied Mollies (moved to a 20gal with a Black Ghost Knife for some reason,
I can't quite remember).
<Skeptical about keeping Mollies in what should be a soft (or at least not too
hard) water community, I have to say.>
He uses a stocking calculator to determine whether or not his tanks are
overstocked, so he can decide which fish he wants to get next, if he can. Here
is where the story basically starts. He decided to get some Skirt Tetras, 3
rather flashy little guys, but they harassed the Gourami and nipped at his fins.
<Predictable. This handsome and lively species is rather better in groups of 6+
specimens, but even then, I wouldn't keep them with slow-moving fish. Much
better with loaches, catfish, Danios, barbs and the like.>
My husband liked the Gourami better, so he transferred the Gourami to the 20gal
tank, moved the Mollies into the 39gal tank, and returned the Skirt Tetras to
the LFS. This took place approximately 8 or 9 months ago. So the Gourami and the
BGK had a rather peaceful co-existence, the BGK would rub on the Gourami and
they'd hang out together, never any aggression shown on the part of either fish.
<Yes; sufficiently dissimilar they shouldn't view each other as threats.>
Fast forward to 3 weeks ago. My husband likens the Gourami to E.T., with his
long-ish face and the way he puts his feeler to the glass like E.T. phoning
home.
<Indeed! Gouramis use their modified pelvic fins for all sorts of things.
They're equipped with taste receptors as well as touch receptors. Often they'll
"stroke" other fish, possibly trying to establish whether they're potential
mates or rivals.>
The BGK (let me add that this BGK is the most unconventional BGK, apparently..
Doesn't display regular nocturnal behaviors, isn't shy in the least, is ultra
curious about what's being done in his home, and is always out and about,
regardless if it's night or day.
<Good!>
The Gourami was at the front of the tank, as we were standing there waggling our
fingers at him, and out of nowhere, the BGK shot across, from the other side of
the tank, and basically T-boned our poor little Gourami.
<Oh!>
Needless to say, the Gourami looked stunned from the impact, since the BGK has a
nose like a 10-lb sledge. We have no idea what prompted the move, no previous
signs of aggression, unless the BGK just wanted attention too. So my husband
took the Gourami out of the tank, in the event that this was the end of their
relationship, as it seemed to us that the BGK knew he had stunned the Gourami
and wanted to hit him again.
<Odd. Do you have a breeding trap? You might reintroduce the Gourami into the
tank within one of these devices. The Black Ghost might have been acting out of
character, and a slow reintroduction, especially if you rearrange the rocks
afterwards, could help.>
He placed him in a shallow cup, to float him in the 38gal tank, but since the
initial move, my husband had added an additional filter. The cup floated over to
the other filter, and spilled the Gourami into the main tank. I think the poor
Gourami was still in shock, and being dumped rather unceremoniously into the
tank probably didn't help matters. He kind of stayed near the top, near one of
the filters, and that was the end of what I had witnessed that evening. My
husband, however, saw our poor little Gourami dart out of control around the
tank, and then basically crash nose-first into the sandy area of the 38gal. He
took him out of the tank, and placed him in a fish bowl of water, because he
seriously thought the fish wasn't going to make it, after that dive into the
bottom. When I woke up the next morning, the Gourami was on the bottom of the
bowl, curled nose to tail, and kind of hitching around his bowl.. it was so sad
to see. Desperate, I took the bowl, removed most of the water, since he seemed
unable to reach the surface, and basically manipulated the fish bowl so that the
Gourami was shoaling(?) and able to flatten out. He still maintained a healthy
appetite, and defecated normally.
<Promising.>
I did notice that when he would curl up, it was a fairly uncontrollable action,
so I would force him to uncurl by shoaling him. He had some trouble with regular
foods, so we gave him fry food that we have on hand now (we've had 2 molly
broods that we were unprepared for), and he ate that with gusto. I also
medicated him with Metronidazole, as one of his fins seemed to have some damage,
and I didn't want that to develop into fin-rot, given his current state of
duress. It seems though, that feeding him may have exacerbated his issue... or
the fact that we were trying desperately to maintain him in a fish bowl, heated
with a heating pad(he had some temperature inconsistencies due to the auto
shut-off mechanism in the pad. We were able to maintain, for the most part, a
temp of 79º-80ºF. We had a 10gal tank that was in the process of cycling, and
once it was cycled, we essentially used that as the water supply for the
Gourami. Herein lies the dilemma, now that you have an idea on what happened.
The Gourami is currently in a cycled 10gal, partially planted, under-gravel
filtered tank, Ammonia:0, Nitrite:0, Nitrate <20ppm(the substrate was stirred
not too long before this testing) pH7.8, 78ºF.
<All sounds fine.>
We have eliminated, as far as we know, all possible causes for his issue. His
swim bladder looks as if it were a blister about to pop. When I said he was
curled nose to tail, he was literally almost bent in half. We thought his back
was broken, for sure. We have fasted him, fed him peas, his tank currently has
slightly less than a 10gal measurement of Epsom salt (it was the full measure,
2tsp, but did a water change today). His feces is normal, not stringy, and he
has a healthy appetite! But that bladder... I itch to take a needle and pop it!.
<Very unwise. Once you break through the skin and muscle wall into the body
cavity, you're creating a massive source of potential infection.>
So my question is, will this get better?
<All else being equal, yes. Gouramis are physoclistous fish. That means their
swim bladder doesn't connect to the oesophagus, as it does on more primitive
physostomous fish. Gas is added or removed by the bloodstream, and this is
relatively slow. It may take some days, even weeks, for serious swim bladder
trauma to be put right.>
Other than swimming on his side, and having that huge air pocket in his tail,
he's an otherwise happy little fish.
<Which is good. Assuming he doesn't have a bacterial infection, he should heal
up nicely if he's active and feeding.>
Responds to us, keeps trying to swim to the bottom of the tank. The part of his
bladder that has become distended is on his right side, and protrudes above the
surface, although he does dip under to wet it, and I take a turkey baster (he
just LOVES that, for some reason) and I pour water over him. I've searched your
site for an answer to this problem, and I've searched for a long time through
other sources, and I've found basically nothing that addresses this, other than
CAR fishing tips about "barotrauma". I did find one brief article on WWM about
another person who saw his fish doing the same curling tail-to-nose thing, and I
feel that my question may have already been answered, in that hopefully this
will resolve itself in time and on its' own,
<Yes, that's the only option here. Physostomous fish can "burp" out air from the
swim bladder because there's a connection between it and the oesophagus. Not an
option here, because Gouramis don't have that connection. Any excess gas (if
that's the issue) will have to be carried away by the bloodstream.>
but a definitive answer about this issue would be greatly helpful and
appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Warm regards, Kimberly.
PS. The BGK is only 3" long. My husband admonished me after I sent you the last
mail, that you would think he's keeping a little dwarf Gourami with a full grown
BGK. Both fish are of a similar size, so we're not that crazy.
<Understood. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Dwarf Gourami dilemma.
4/17/17
Hi WWM Crew, Neale:
I can't thank you enough for your prompt response. We're 3 weeks into hoping and
praying the Gourami gets better, I shall keep you updated on the matter. And
thank you for basically telling me his swim bladder isn't going to rupture. I
had thought about carrying him to a vet and having them aspirate the swim
bladder since needles and syringes aren't what I usually keep on hand with our
fish meds.. but thank you for reassuring me a rupture won't happen. The only
reason I haven't satisfied my itch to pop that "blister" is solely due to the
fact that I'd be introducing a whole host of problems(no pun intended) for my
already distressed little guy. So no worries there, Crew!
Neale, thank you for your reply, and easing my mind a bit that I'm doing
everything I can possibly be doing at this point and time.
A side-note about the mollies; we have one LFS in our small town, and our town
is famous for notoriously hard water. I do not know if they had been acclimated
before hand, and we know the difficulty with trying to soften hard water. The RO
we get from our grocer tests at 6.4pH. My husband had been mixing RO and spring
water, in about a 70/30 ratio RO to spring so as to try and keep a more neutral
balance; he's even got driftwood pieces trying to help with that.
All in all, the mollies are thriving for it being a bit too hard, but we also
know they like it a bit brackish, so we do help them out there, if we can't make
the water as soft as they might like it. We're working on it, though. It may
take a while of only RO water for weekly water changes, but it should gradually
lower so that it's more to their liking.
At the very least, our buffering capacity is good, so there won't be any huge
swings in pH as we get to that goal.
Oh, just for fun, here's a list of my husband's 7 tanks with current
stock:38gal: 11 neon/cardinal tetras, 6 Corydoras catfish, 4 scissor-tail
Rasbora, 5 Otocinclus various snails, planted.20gal: 1 BGK; planted18gal Hex: 11
Harlequin Rasbora; planted
10gal #1: 4 pot-bellied mollies, 3 female, one male; planted
10gal #2: Hospital tank, low flow undergravel that houses my poor Gourami;
planted
5gal: South American Crayfish(?); planted
5gal#2: Another crayfish2.5gal: Juvenile Molly (possibly Sailfin, or pot
bellied; one of our previous mollies had given birth, and sadly, Speck, because
he only looked like a speck is the only one left); planted.
Breeder tank: An Endler's Livebearer fry that I got as a bonus with some of the
aquatic plants I purchased. And last, but not least, and yet to be set up:
75gal, future home of the BGK and various other fish, I'm sure.
Okay, so I can't count.. that makes 8 tanks, not 7. I wasn't thinking on the
breeder tank, since it's attached and filtered through the 10gal hospital tank.
Have a great week!
Thanks again, Kimberly.
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Re: Dwarf Gourami dilemma.
4/18/17
Hi WWM Crew, Neale:
I can't thank you enough for your prompt response.
<Welcome.>
We're 3 weeks into hoping and praying the Gourami gets better, I shall keep
you updated on the matter.
<Good oh!>
And thank you for basically telling me his swim bladder isn't going to
rupture.
<Not sure I said that! Can happen. But unlikely, and there's nothing much
you can do either way. But yes, any surgery at home would make things worse,
and chances are it'll fix itself -- over time.>
I had thought about carrying him to a vet and having them aspirate the swim
bladder since needles and syringes aren't what I usually keep on hand with
our fish meds.. but thank you for reassuring me a rupture won't happen.
<I've never seen it in aquarium fish, anyway. The photos you see of marine
fish (usually) with their swim bladders massively expanded, often poking out
their mouths, are examples of physostomous fish unable to 'burp' out the gas
when brought up from deep water. As pressure decreases, the gas in the
bladder expands. Physostomous fish can burp it out, but more advanced fish
can't. Since aquarium fish aren't kept under pressure, this problem doesn't
exist.>
The only reason I haven't satisfied my itch to pop that "blister" is solely
due to the fact that I'd be introducing a whole host of problems(no pun
intended) for my already distressed little guy. So no worries there, Crew!
<Cool.>
Neale, thank you for your reply, and easing my mind a bit that I'm doing
everything I can possibly be doing at this point and time.
<Glad to help.>
A side-note about the mollies; we have one LFS in our small town, and our
town is famous for notoriously hard water. I do not know if they had been
acclimated before hand, and we know the difficulty with trying to soften
hard water. The RO we get from our grocer tests at 6.4pH. My husband had
been mixing RO and spring water, in about a 70/30 ratio RO to spring so as
to try and keep a more neutral balance; he's even got driftwood pieces
trying to help with that.
All in all, the mollies are thriving for it being a bit too hard, but we
also know they like it a bit brackish, so we do help them out there, if we
can't make the water as soft as they might like it. We're working on it,
though. It may take a while of only RO water for weekly water changes, but
it should gradually lower so that it's more to their liking.
<Bit confused by the above. To be clear: Mollies like hard water. If you
have "liquid rock" it's probably fine for them as-is. No need to add salt,
provided water quality is good. It's in softer water (anything less than 10
degrees dH) and especially acidic conditions (anything below pH 7) that the
addition of salt is essential. Adding salt also helps Mollies deal with high
nitrate levels, which are commonly encountered in cities or places with a
lot of agricultural run-off.>
At the very least, our buffering capacity is good, so there won't be any
huge swings in pH as we get to that goal.
<And your fish thank you. To a large extent, fish prefer stable, if not
"ideal", pH levels compared with somebody faffing about with buffers to get
the "ideal" pH but creating unstable conditions.>
Oh, just for fun, here's a list of my husband's 7 tanks with current
stock:38gal: 11 neon/cardinal tetras, 6 Corydoras catfish, 4 scissor-tail
Rasbora, 5 Otocinclus various snails, planted.20gal: 1 BGK; planted18gal
Hex: 11 Harlequin Rasbora; planted
10gal #1: 4 pot-bellied mollies, 3 female, one male; planted
10gal #2: Hospital tank, low flow undergravel that houses my poor Gourami;
planted
5gal: South American Crayfish(?); planted
5gal#2: Another crayfish2.5gal: Juvenile Molly (possibly Sailfin, or pot
bellied; one of our previous mollies had given birth, and sadly, Speck,
because he only looked like a speck is the only one left); planted.
Breeder tank: An Endler's Livebearer fry that I got as a bonus with some of
the aquatic plants I purchased. And last, but not least, and yet to be set
up: 75gal, future home of the BGK and various other fish, I'm sure.
Okay, so I can't count.. that makes 8 tanks, not 7. I wasn't thinking on the
breeder tank, since it's attached and filtered through the 10gal hospital
tank.
<That's certainly quite the handful of fish!>
Have a great week!
Thanks again, Kimberly.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Dwarf Gourami dilemma. 4/18/17
Hello again, Neale.
It's my day off, which is why I'm monitoring my emails for your responses,
and why mine come back so quickly.
I must apologize, I was confused about your initial comment on being
skeptical regarding the mollies in what should be a softer water
environment.
<Fair enough!>
I was a dummy, and didn't realize you were discussing the 38gal with the
tetras.
<To be honest I kind of lost track... and simply offered plain advice for
each type of fish. I'll let you deal with accommodating them as necessary!>
I have been informed by my husband that was the reason he moved the mollies
to their own tank in the first place, because he read on your site that they
like harder water.
<For sure. In the wild come from coastal areas for sure, even coastal marine
habitats, albeit in very shallow, few-inches-deep water around harbours and
mangroves. But Mollies also be found, and probably no less abundantly,
hundreds of miles inland, though usually in places with a limestone geology
and fairly hard water.>
As far as not telling me it wouldn't rupture, based on what I've read of
comments in the past to your other readers, I assumed that if it was a
probability, you would have said something. I notice you all don't mince
words when it comes to the safety of the fish, and rightly so!
<More my English sense of humour than anything else... but yes, sometimes
does come across a bit dry!>
Again, I can't thank you enough; you and your crew have provided priceless
information (and a way to discuss a problem!) for all of us newbies in the
aquarium hobby.
Cheers, Crew! Kimberly
<We're happy to be here. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Dwarf Gourami dilemma.
4/22/17
Hello Neale, Crew.
<Kimberley,>
An update, or an interesting development about my Dwarf Gourami (Colisa lalia).
My husband thinks that the Gourami's side has split, due to the pressure of the
gas in the gas bladder, and that the gas bladder is actually protruding.
Herniated, I guess I should say.
<Doesn't sound good, anyway.>
Parameters:10gal
A=0
Nitrite=0
Nitrate= <5ppm (planted tank, undergravel filter)
pH7.6
temp 79ºF
Again, he eats and he poops.
<Which are both good signs.>
I have recently begun to create sort of "hyperbaric chamber" (it's really not)
by inverting a glass bowl over him with an air pocket and some Frogbit for
company. The bowl is not sealed, and is setting on the bottom, with the
undergravel filter doing its' work. The bowl is not sealed, and as yet I have
not medicated him for anything, because there is currently not anything to
medicate for.
He was in the "chamber" for 6 hours, and I noticed when I released him to the
top of the tank, gently, of course, to feed him, his gas bladder had seemed to
have shrunk..
<Interesting.>
however, being at the top seemed to re-inflate it. For the first few minutes of
being out of the "chamber", he continued to swim, not at the top, but actually
getting down into the tank. And then it was feeding time. I know that the air
pocket in the bowl will be warmer than the atmospheric air and will not
evaporate, leaving the air in the pocket moist, and there is the Frogbit for
oxygen exchange.
<I wouldn't keep any labyrinth fish isolated from the air for too long; they can
drown. But raising the aquarium temperature a couple degrees will warm the air
immediately above the tank, and that might replicate the warmer, damper air that
you think might be helping here. I can't imagine the pressure difference between
the top and bottom of the tank are enough to 'squeeze' a swim bladder
sufficiently, so it's hard to say if what you did is actually the reason for the
improvement. By all means carry on, but with the understanding that Gouramis do
need (replenished, oxygenated) air to breathe, or they drown.>
If you have any advice, it would be greatly appreciated... I don't think there's
anything more I can do at this point. Especially in regards to the possible
split in the skin, and the apparent herniation of the gas bladder. I forgot to
add: He's not stressed, and eats with gusto still. Still behaving as normal as
can be, despite his apparent handicap.
I put him in the "chamber" to try and acclimate him to the pressure at the
bottom of the tank, and hopefully kind of "force" an equalization of the gas
exchange from bladder back into the bloodstream. He seems to enjoy it, for all
that he can't really swim anywhere anyway.
<Indeed.>
Thanks for all your help.
Warmest regards, Kimberly
<Good luck with your medical endeavours here! Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Dwarf Gourami dilemma.
4/23/16
Hello Neale, Crew:
I appreciate your quick response, Neale. Prompt as ever!
<Welcome.>
However, my main concern about this poor little Gourami wasn't really addressed,
and that is: what's your advice on the herniated swim bladder?
<None; there's nothing practical you can do, unless you're a vet, in which case
you'd be more qualified than me to answer. All you can do is wait (and hope) for
a return to normal function. Antibiotics as you're using them can
help if there's an infection there, but the swim bladder is not really something
that can be otherwise treated. In physoclistous fish it's a sealed bag inside
the fish, and empties or fills as determined by its blood supply and the needs
of the fish. It's far too delicate to be manipulated by the fishkeeper, and even
the slightest force will burst it. On the other hand, there's really nothing
much to go wrong with it either, since it's basically a hollow bag. If it's
'overblown' the fish will, slowly, reabsorb that gas, and the bladder can return
to its normal size.>
He's been okay in the inverted bowl at the bottom, with air inside and Amazon
Frogbit. In fact, he actually looks a lot more calm, and seems to enjoy being
there. I know, him being a labyrinth fish, he needs atmospheric oxygen, and the
longest time he's been under the bowl so far is 7 hours with no adverse effects.
In fact, he's swimming at the top of the tank, trying to get back down as I
write this.
<Cool.>
Again though, my main concern is the herniated swim bladder.
Just wait and see?
<Yes.>
Medicate in case something crops up?
<Only if you perceive a bacterial infection treatable with antibiotics.>
I know he's not suffering, per se; he has no stress stripe, is color is good,
he's not clamped, not gasping for air, very responsive to us people.
(Loves the turkey baster, for some reason.)
<Fish can, do adapt to life without a swim bladder. But as I say, there's
nothing really you can do about it either way.>
I apologize for being a pest, but there is *literally* zero information on
herniated swim bladders in ornamental fish.
Thanks in advance, Warm regards, Kimberly
<Just keep doing what you're doing, Kimberly. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Dwarf Gourami dilemma. 4/24/17
Hell again, Neale.
Your reply has greatly increased my hope! I appreciate the advice, my concern is
forever first the quality of life that he may have, handicapped or not.
<Understood.>
I can't imagine adapting to the way he's swimming, but I don't have the heart to
euthanize him, since he doesn't really seem too handicapped by it.
<In which case there's no need to worry. Since this is an injury of some sort,
it's not like we need to remove bad genes from the gene pool -- the main reason
people euthanise fish that are weakened or deformed in some
way. If the fish adapts, he's like those dogs you see with a missing leg.
Handicapped perhaps, but not suffering, and in the right situation, a perfectly
viable pet.>
He's such a spunky little guy! We have what we've dubbed the "Happy flop".. When
he sees us, he flops around on the surface with his dorsal fully erect, and
seems as happy as a clam.
<Cool.>
I can't tell you just how invaluable your site is; almost every possible
scenario is encountered, and each one is anecdotal to us all. High praise for
the Crew; you've all done a marvelous work here.
<Thanks for the kind words. It's why any of us here volunteer.>
Have a wonderful day! Regards, Kimberly
<And you enjoy your day, too. Neale.>
Re: Dwarf Gourami dilemma.
5/13/17
Hello Neale, Crew!
I hope this email finds all of you happy and well! It sure does me!
<Hello Kimberley,>
Some good news! Neale, your assessment, as ever, was correct.
<Blush!>
My little Gourami has almost made a full recovery! He's still got some
distension in his swim bladder, but it is no longer herniated and he is
swimming upright and in full control over his movements.
<Good.>
A far cry from 7 weeks ago, when he was curled nose to tail on the
bottom of our other tank!
<Indeed.>
We've had a few minor setbacks along the way, of course. After
introducing him initially into his new home after exhibiting vast
improvement in his cup (it was a clear plastic cup that I taped to the
rim of the aquarium,
suspended inside the tank) he immediately decided to exact vengeance on
all the snails in his tank. Apparently, he really likes to eat them.
<Some fish will, and Gouramis generally have a reputation for eating
snails if sufficiently hungry. Dwarf Gouramis are also known to "spit"
water above the waterline to knock down food, like Archerfish. Try
floating tiny bits of food on the surface first, like minced prawn, then
stick some small bits on the waterline and see if he'll go for them.
That certainly worked for my Archerfish!>
I've had to remove him back to his cup to stop the hunting (and
consequent intestinal stoppages, or so they seemed) on a few occasions,
and this morning when I released him, I did not feed him, knowing he'd
go for the
snails. (For the longest time, I couldn't figure out why his he shared
with the BGK tank had no snails, and our other tanks did. Now I know!)
He's been relentless in his hunting of them.
<He's unlikely to have trouble feeding on the softer snail varieties
like Physa and Physella spp., but I would avoid Melanoides spp. because
these have very tough shells that aren't easily crushed or broken and
might cause
problems.>
In any event, I just wanted to give you an update and let you know that
so far all is well with my little guy; I'm glad I didn't euthanize him,
and I'm glad I took your advice.
Cheers all, and thank you again for all that you do. WWM is the FIRST
place (and usually last) I go to get information on my aquariums!
Have a wonderful day! Regards, Kimberly
<Always good to hear about happy endings, so thanks for writing. Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: Dwarf Gourami dilemma. (Soon to be solved!)
5/21/17
Hello Neale!
<Kimberly,>
I'm not writing you today for advice, but in the last 2 months of caring
for my little Mr. Gourami, I think I may have found something
significant..
I searched on your site for it, but I couldn't find anything about it.
<Oh?>
When I reintroduced Mr. Gourami into his solo 10gal tank, Ammonia-0,
Nitries-0, Nitrates <20ppm (planted), I told you that he started chasing
all the snails in his tank and eating them. He would get his normal
flake food, and some shrimp/Spirulina mix at night. What I noticed,
though, was that after eating, he would start spinning uncontrollably
really fast, and have a very dark stress line across his abdomen. That
reminds me of another observation I had. Back to the spinning. At first
I thought that he was so damaged from his injury, that anything passing
through the injured part would cause pain. Not a way to live, I'd
imagine. I also thought the snails were causing the reaction. But then I
noticed that his tail (and his swim bladder! Re: initial herniation) was
very, very thin. Then his abdomen swelled. I thought maybe because his
anterior gas bladder chamber was so thin, it was getting trapped in the
posterior chamber. I also looked up DGD.. no other symptoms. I tried fry
food, since it was so fine, maybe easier for him to digest, but then
after seeing the same reaction, I remembered that such foods high in
protein could/would cause constipation.
So then I tried some algae wafer a little later... same effect. So I was
lost. Then, I looked at the ingredient list for the flake, fry food and
algae wafer. All 3 had some form of wheat flour, or wheat gluten. Do you
think, that with the industry continuously feeding the same
processed-type foods to fish, as humans get, it could stand to reason
that they could have developed a gluten intolerance? That, or the fact
that no fish I've ever seen or heard of ever came into contact with any
kind of wheat in the wild.
So what say you? Do you think it's viable, that a gluten-free diet (most
commercials have it) could really help all of these fishes' sensitive
digestive systems?
<It's really hard to know. In the wild, fish wouldn't really be eating
much, if any, gluten. For sure herbivorous and omnivorous fish will
consume some terrestrial plant material that falls or otherwise ends up
in ponds and rivers. It's also true that grains of various types have
been used to feed food fish like carp and tilapia for many years. But
whether they're well adapted to digesting gluten isn't known to me, and
it's certainly possible that for some species -- such as the less
herbivorous gouramis -- it may be something they find hard to digest.
That said, good quality flake
food mixes have been used for many decades now with great success, and
across a wide range of species. There's nothing to stop you switching to
alternate brands/formulas though; I happen to value the Hikari micro
pellets for small fish like gouramis, but the Tetra brand foods are also
extremely good and unlikely to cause health problems if used correctly.
One thing I'll mention is that fish food can go bad very quickly in damp
and warm environments. Certainly packages should be kept cool and dry,
and if you can, use packages that run out within a month or two (if you
buy bulk, consider storing the tub somewhere cold, dark and dry, while
decanting just a small amount into another container for daily use).>
My Gourami is now being fed seaweed and shrimp/Spirulina mix only, and
he has not had the same reaction to the foods that contain wheat. In
fact, he's had no mishaps since the change in the diet, only one day
ago. Not to be macabre, but his feces was a tad thin (not stringy) at
first, but he just evacuated a solid, substantial seaweed movement. And
had no issue passing it.
<Definitely worth experimenting. If this one food causes problems, stop
using it! Even if gluten isn't the issue itself, there does seem to be
something amiss.>
Just some info, maybe gluten is the culprit for some underlying issues
FW keepers have.
I'm not a marine biologist, and it's only one fish, but so far so good
with this one. Hasn't hurt him to only have a veggie/meat treat diet.
Cheers Neale, and Crew. Have a great weekend. Regards, Kimberly
<Cheers, Neale.>
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