FAQs on Condylactis Anemone
Systems
Related Articles: Condylactis Anemones, Anemones,
Anemones of
the Tropical West Atlantic, Colored/Dyed Anemones,
Related FAQs: Condylactis
1, Condylactis 2, Anemone Systems, Condylactis Identification, Condylactis Compatibility, Condylactis Behavior, Condylactis Selection, Condylactis Feeding, Condylactis Disease, Condylactis Reproduction, Atlantic
Anemones 1, Atlantic Anemones 2,
Anemones, Anemones 2,
LTAs, Clownfishes & Anemones, Anemone
Lighting, Anemone
Reproduction, Anemone
Identification, Anemone
Compatibility, Anemone
Selection, Anemone Behavior,
Anemone
Health, Anemone
Placement, Anemone
Feeding,
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New Print and
eBook on Amazon:
Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
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Condylactis, sys., stkg. 12/26/12
Hi there,
I was up at my lfs talking to them about how I would like to have a
anemone in my tank. I told them about what kind of lighting and fish I
had. They said a Condylactis would be my best bet and they are only $8.
I did all this with out even researching and was told by two different
lfs it would be fine. I bought it! Well got home and started researching
and now I am not sure about my lighting. Its 180 fowlr tank. The
lighting is vho. Two aqua sun 160 watt sun bulbs, one 454 160 watt bulb,
and one super actinic 160 watt bulb. Is this good enough lighting for
this anemone?
<Mmm, possibly; though there are other potential downsides... see WWM re
the genus>
The anemone it self seems very happy. It ate krill yesterday, has already
found a spot in my tank and has not moved. Thanks for you time!
<C. gigantea may sting other, consume other life... Bob Fenner>
Haitian Anemone/Systems/Health 1/20/10
Hello Crew!
<Hi Matt>
It's me again.
<Me as in Matt?>
Well I have some questions about the anemone I have. I've had
it about 3 weeks now and you can see its brown color is starting
to come back. When I bought him he was pure white. The thing that
is bothering me now is his purple tips are starting to vanish and
the tips of some of his tentacles are looking a bit odd. They are
not a perfect round shape, kind of zig zag in shape. I just
recently bought a Clarkii Clownfish who absolutely loves him. My
Water Params are pH 8.2 Ammonia 0 Nitrites 0 and Nitrates about 5
and SG is 1.24. I use T5 HO lighting 2x 14watt one actinic and
one 10000k.
I have yet to start spot feeding because his color is coming back
so nicely. Well any information would be great!
<The Haitian Reef Anemone, a Condylactis species, is found
near Haiti, in lagoons and/or inner reefs. It has a red column
with long, tapering, pink-tipped tentacles. The tentacles may
occasionally develop a bubble-like appearance which may be what
you are calling "odd". Generally it likes to bury the
base in the sand or into the crevice of a rock for protection,
and requires high intensity lighting to survive long term. Your
two 14 watt HO's, depending on your tank size and depth, is
borderline at best for keeping this species. I would at least
replace the actinic with another 10K lamp, it will help increase
your light intensity. A better idea would be to see if you can
return/exchange it if lighting improvements cannot be made.
Do read here and articles, especially the FAQ's linked in the
header.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condyanemones.htm>
Thanks for your time.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
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Question About Care Of Condy Anemone/Reef Lighting
7/27/09
Hi there,
<Hello Matthew>
I would really appreciate you bearing with me and possibly answering
some of the questions I have about the Condy Anemone. I had a tank that
I set up about three/four months ago with the intent on only keeping
fish and maybe a few hardy mushroom corals. However, I decided to go
and buy a Condy anemone because the owner of my LFS told me that it was
quite hardy to an extent and that it would be a nice addition to my
tank.
<Mmm, to what extent? Mixing an anemone with corals is not a good
idea, especially in a tank size such as yours.>
The water parameters are as follows: S.G= 1.025, pH= 8.1,
Nitrates/Nitrites/Ammonia= 0, Temperature= 80 F. I have a 65 watt
Current USA Single Satellite fixture on my 39 gallon tank. In your
opinion would
you say that my tank is suitable to keep this?
<No, your lighting will not support this animal for long. You did
not mention the depth of your tank, so I cannot suggest proper
lighting. Funny your LFS didn't ask you what type of lighting you
have before the purchase.
Anemones are photosynthetic and most require a high light level for
photosynthesis to take place. I would suggest you take it back before
it dies. In the future, never rely on one source of information. Do
some
research before buying, will save you some grief and cash in the long
run.>
Also, is it generally normal for anemone to extend and then pull in
their tentacles?
<Generally, yes. Read here and related articles/FAQ's on this
subject.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Matthew.
Ga Ga For Grammas (Royal Gramma Biotope System)
7/7/09
Hello Crew,
<Hey there! Scott F. your Crew member today!>
I am in the process of setting up a 29g reef, which has been
built, but not yet stocked pending the conclusion of my
research.
<Good heavens- you're RESEARCHING before setting a system
up? This is really great to see/hear. So many problems can be
eliminated with a little time spent researching. Good for
you!>
I want to showcase Condylactis anemones (only one type, hopefully
the gigantea), and my wife is interested in a Royal Gramma.
<One of my all-time favorite fishes!>
That led me to focus on a
Caribbean biotope, having read Tullock's and Mr Fenner's
books, as well as Reef Invertebrates by Mr Fenner and Mr
Calfo.
<Excellent references all!>
I am leaning toward
the shallow side of a fore reef, with a 2x65w Coralife fixture,
an Aqua C Remora skimmer, and dual returns routed from a SCWD
that should result in a total flow rate of around 300-350gph
after accounting for head loss and the head pressure of the SCWD.
The tank has been drilled and has a 1" Durso installed.
<Know the man- love his standpipes!>
I have around 25lbs of well established Fiji rock (can't get
Gulf rock locally), another 25lbs of well established base rock,
and 40+ pounds of live sand. I anticipate about a 4" sand
depth in the display, with a 20g long being used for the
sump.
<Sounds good so far. If you're thinking about the whole
biotope idea, do consider building up a rock overhang under which
your Royal Gramma can hang out in a natural fashion This is a
really interesting biotope. In fact, I'll be in the Caribbean
next week, and hope to be visiting my pals the Grammas in their
natural environment!.>
Other species I am considering include 3-5 peppermint shrimp, a
few Astraea and turbo snails, and a pair of Atlantic cleaner
shrimp (actually, Lysmata amboinensis, as I can't get the
Atlantic version locally). I would want to place the anemone or
anemones in first to let them settle a bit, as I anticipate them
wandering a bit more at first. I only plan on keeping one Royal
Gramma. I don't think a second fish is a good idea in a tank
this size, unless you think there's a practical option.
<I would generally not attempt adding more than one in an
aquarium of this size. Perhaps a few Neon Gobies might fit in
nicely and add to the interest of this biotope, but that's
about it. If this were a larger system, I'd definitely create
an aggregation of Grammas, and perhaps a few other fishes>
I've looked around the site, but haven't found info on
this specific setup...any advice?
Stan
<Well, Stan, I think that you are on the right track. As an
obsessed by biotope geek myself, I really think that this is a
great way to highlight and learn more about animals that you are
interested in. Fishes and inverts in a system that attempts to
replicate the natural environment will display more natural
behaviors and colors, as well as possibly engage in spawning
behavior. And, biotope systems are highly educational to both
hobbyists and non-hobbyists alike. They are truly unique displays
that can provide a new dimension of enjoyment to your hobby. Best
of luck! Regards,
Scott F.>
Re: Condy anemone/royal gramma biotope
Stocking a Royal Gramma Biotope 7/8/09
Scott,
<Hey Stan>
Since you're headed that way, can you suggest a few names of
likely Royal Gramma habitats in the Caribbean? I know they are
prolific, but I am hoping to find some biotope pictures online,
and it seems the best way to research biotopes is by looking at
tourist-oriented websites, especially for deep sea diving
locations.
<Excellent thought. The tourist and dive sites are a great
source of biotope information and usually have great photos as
well! I would look for information from The Bahamas, Venezuela,
the Lesser Antilles, and other outlying parts of the Caribbean. I
hope to see some in Grand Cayman and Isla Roatan, but that might
be wishful thinking. They seem to be very commonly encountered in
Bimini in the Bahamas, so checking out dive sites for this area
could be fruitful. Check the sites for dive operators in the
other areas mentioned, too, and www.fishbase.org for specific
type localities and other great information!>
Also, I hear the C. gigantea species can top out at 12 inches. I
anticipate not having any corals or sessile inverts in the tank,
but will this anemone's size be a problem?
<In the size of aquarium that you are contemplating, this
species could be a problem. I'd be more inclined to consider
smaller, hardier, more abundant "Rock Anemones", such
as Phymanthus or the "Corkscrew Anemones", Bartholomea
species. Although it would be cheating a bit, as these species
are generally not found in the same environment as the Grammas,
these would probably fare better in a system of this size. To be
honest, I would pass on an anemone altogether in the biotope, as
they are generally not found in super close proximity to the
Grammas in nature. I would be much more inclined to utilize
Gorgonians, or even (artificial!) sponges and encrusting soft
corals (versions of Sinularia, perhaps- although not found in the
region, could make a suitable facsimile of the local corals, if
desired.). Passing on the anemone would create a more
faithful/functional/sustainable reproduction of the biotope,
IMHO. You should consider planting some calcareous macroalgae,
such as Halimeda, in the rocks.>
As the focal point of the tank, I am okay with it filling the
tank...
<Umm...consider the options above.>
Lastly (though I know better), any chance of an Arrow Crab
working in this size aquarium with a Royal Gramma? I am under the
belief that sooner or later every snail, shrimp, or fish would be
lunch at some point in a tank this size (29g). I just think they
are cool, so I like to ask around.
<I, too, have always loved the Arrow Crab, but I'm a bit
leery of them at the larger sizes. Although better known for
eating polychaetes like bristle worms, they do tend to develop
more "cosmopolitan" tastes in the confines of an
aquarium, perhaps even going after more desirable life forms,
such as Feather Dusters, etc. They will definitely be a threat to
smaller crustaceans, such as shrimp, and could at least
potentially be problematic to smaller more sessile fishes, so
keep this in consideration. Although not really piscivores per
se, "accidents" do happen in the aquarium. I would
certainly keep a small specimen if you are inclined to have one,
and keep a close eye out for potential problems in a system of
this size. Best to use some of the small to medium sized shrimps
instead, although not to small, as you might end up feeding your
Gramma an expensive little meal! So much to consider, I know, but
we just need to be mindful of the potential issues in a
modest-sized system.>
Thanks again for a great site!
Stan
<My pleasure, Stan. Don't want to "rain on your
parade", but I did want to give you some food for thought in
regards to potential stocking issues for this aquarium. Best of
luck, and keep me posted on how this system evolves!
Regards, Scott F.>
Re: Condy anemone/royal gramma biotope
Stocking a Royal Gramma Biotope (cont'd.) 7/8/09
Scott,
<Hey Stan!>
Something like this, perhaps, with my tank representing a slice
of the bottom of this wall. I have some synthetic Red Sea live
rock that looks very similar to the red encrusting sponges found
in the Caribbean. I could use that along the corner to conceal
the overflow and mimic the sloping wall. Pillars of true live
rock go along the bottom, inter spaced with Halimeda. I can get
gorgonians pretty readily here, and there are rock anemones
brought in as hitchhikers pretty often as well. I may also attach
some dried sea fans to augment the gorgonians.
<Very nice...This is a great biotope to replicate. I have
often though that it would work well in one of those tall, narrow
aquariums (You know- the kind that end up in the garage
collecting dust for eternity, or become
terrariums..>
Final livestock plan appears as such:
1 Royal Gramma
2 Cleaner Shrimp
3-5 Peppermint Shrimp
2-3 Turbo Snails
3-5 Astrea Snails
maybe a...
<Hmm...maybe a Neon Goby or some kind of Blenny...Maybe a
Jawfish, if you have deep enough sand! Keep me posted on this
setup! Regards, Scott F.>
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Re: Condy anemone/royal Gramma
biotope
Caribbean Biotope (cont'd.) 7/23/09
Hey Scott,
<Hey there!>
I found this on the web...great report that has actual counts of
coral specimens, along with their locations and the
fish/invertebrates found with them.
<Very cool to find this kind of information on the web. There
is a wealth of useful biotope information out there for the
hobbyist willing to take a serious look!>
Here's another report dealing with anemones in the Keys
specifically...Also, a really good website, with movies and pics
of Caribbean biotopes (help planning your dives?) can be
found
here...http://jrscience.wcp.muohio.edu/html/tropecoimages.html.
<Neat..in fact, Michelle L. and I just returned from a
Caribbean dive trip, and we noticed Condylactis anemones on reefs
in Belize and Cozumel..I was surprised, quite frankly, to see
them there.>
Interestingly, I noted that there are fairly low appearances of
Cleaner/Banded Shrimp, suggesting that multiple specimens in a
29g tank is not representative of their natural habitat (unless
they are pairing). This holds true for Arrow Crabs as well,
although they are already known to fight each other in
aquariums.
<Absolutely. Although once again, on the reefs I did see these
creatures residing in surprisingly close proximity to each other.
This would be completely crazy to attempt in an aquarium, IMO.
One of the coolest things I saw was in Cozumel- a
"family" of 3 Arrow Crabs- two adults and a little guy-
all on a small patch of rock. It was really cool to see.>
Sure is a lot of stony coral...I will be using some "branch
rock" around the slope and along the bottom to replicate the
pieces that would normally fall off and deposit along fore reef
slopes due to storm damage. The Acropora count was around 50-60%
of the coral counted in some areas, with algal growth accounting
for most of the rest...
<I was surprised to see so much macroalgae, such as Dictyota
and some turf algaes, covering the reefs...far more predominantly
than corallines.>
For my setup, I will be trying to replicate a small slope that
might be found along a fore reef wall, a ledge, if you will.
<Nice idea.>
Also, here's a super website that has lots of pics, and some
movies, of various locations in the Caribbean.
<Hmm...not seeing it. I'm very excited to see your concept
coming together.
Best of luck- and keep me in the loop! Regards, Scott F.>
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Condy Anemone 7/14/09
We have just started our first saltwater aquarium and purchased a
Condylactis anemone.
< Anemones should never be placed in a newly established aquarium. 6
months to a year minimum. >
It is pink/white and has purple tips. I have read a lot about these
anemones but still have a question or two about it. First here is some
information on our tank. We decided to start small. So we have a 20G
tank.
< Too small for this animal. >
It's inhabitants include:
1 1/2 inch substrate
6lbs dead rock
10 1/2 lbs live rock
5 hermit crabs (red legged)
3 snails
1 Skunk Cleaner Shrimp
1 Black Brittle Star
1 Royal Gramma
1 Lawnmower Blenny
< Can become aggressive in small environments. Especially as they
age. >
2 Percula Clowns
1 Pencil Sea Urchin
< Could cause injuries to the anemone. >
1 Condylactis Gigantea
(We also have some Ricordea, a few tiny feather dusters and 5 teeny
tiny sea stars that came on live rock) (Not sure if I spelled
everything right! sorry)
< Tank is overcrowded. I would remove at least 2 of the fish. I
would suggest keeping the Perculas.>
The only thing that I know about our lighting is that it is 15watt
fluorescent. I do know that anemones need strong lighting.
< This is not nearly enough lighting. >
I target feed the anemone a small piece (1/4 inch or smaller) once a
week and feed the tank a 1/2 cube of mysis shrimp morning and night. My
water quality is excellent...1.024,
< I would slowly raise this to 1.026 >
8.2. 76 degrees, 0 for all levels it should be and so on.
After having the anemone a week now it is still "free
floating" in one spot in the tank. It has not attached it's
foot anywhere!
< This is not a good sign at all. >
Questions:
Is it normal that it hasn't attached yet?
< Absolutely not. This is a sure sign something is not right.
>
Should it attach to something or will it always float?
< A healthy anemone should attach fairly quickly. >
Is my lighting good for this anemone, or do I need more?
< Your lighting is no where near enough. You should look into a 4
bulb T5 setup. Look for one with individual reflectors. You should also
increase the feedings to help supplement the poor lighting. >
Also my anemone keeps "deflating" and "inflating",
I know this is normal because it has not been in the tank long but do
you know how long before they start to stay "inflated"?
< The inflating in deflating could just be the animal expelling
waste. >
I really love this animal, it is SO gorgeous and want to do anything I
can to make it happier. We are in the process of getting a bigger
tank.
Thanks for any help you can offer!!
< A bigger tank is a good step but lighting is an immediate need. If
a new light fixture can not be purchased quickly , you may want to
consider returning this animal until you are more prepared to care for
its needs. GA Jenkins >
Bobi
Re: Condy Anemone 7/15/09
Thank you so much for your support!
< Your welcome. >
I just go my 55 gallon tank today!
< Congrats! >
I am getting it ready to transfer my fish (I know that takes time). I
will supplement feeding for the anemone now. I am getting the proper
lighting tomorrow.
< Wonderful ! For a 55 I would suggest you look into some type of
Metal Halide combo. I love T5's but for that depth I believe MH
would be your best bet. Especially with the higher lighting needs of
your Condy.>
Thank you again! I love your site and all it's wonderful
information!
< You are very welcome. GA Jenkins >
Condy Anemone 7/2/09
Hello and thank you for such an interesting and informative site.
My local shops are all too arrogant to chat it up, or only
interested in selling, to be of any real honest help.
<Sad and all too common.>
I found this site by Googling, and it is the only one with
specific and informative help.
<Thank you.>
To my problem.
I am including a pictures of my Condy Anemone. I bought a nano
system from the shop that already had been cycled and had a Condy
and another fish I have since removed. The Anem started out fine,
but the tentacles are all withered and falling off. His body
looks healthy, and he has only moved once. I keep the water clean
and within the parameters you have advised here.
<Can you provide specific numbers?>
He eats a small piece of squid eagerly three times a week, stays
swollen up, but these tentacles are all dying. Please
advise.....
<A few things come to mind, particularly the system size. Most
"nano" sized systems are really not appropriate for
most if not any anemones. The size alone is an issue, but the
stability (lack of) that comes along with a nano size is another.
Also, how about lighting, filtration and water flow in this
system? All play into the health of your Condy. Scott V.>
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Re: Condy Anemone 7/3/09
Just as I said about my local store just wanting to sell me
something. They highly recommended this setup.
<Not good.>
My parameters are
ALK. 180
PH 8.2
NO2 0
NO3 10
It is pretty consistently there.
<Is the temperature consistent?>
Filtration is two sponge cubes, then
charcoal bag in section two. I have about 10 lbs of live rock in
there.
The lighting is the Nano DX hood. Two double fluorescent bulbs, one
white one blue. I started the Anem directly below good light, about
4-5 inches deep, and he moved to a shadier area. The flow is a
power head pointing away from him, but he gets decent tentacle
movement, the ones that are left anyway.
<This system really is not suitable for this anemone. It sounds
on the small side for both growth and stability. The lighting too
does not sound like it is likely enough based on what you have
stated.
See: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condysysfaq.htm and the linked
files above.
Scott V.> |
Condy Questions plus tank too : )...
James... 2/19/08 I am reading a
lot of things on the Internet today. You seem to have short quick
answers. I have a few questions for you guys. I have a 37 Tall
saltwater tank 30"x12"x22"??? It has a stock hood
but with after market lights. I have had success for over a year
with this tank and recently took on a Condylactis giganteus
<Tank too small for this guy.><<No... RMF>> see
photo at the request of my better half. I have read a fair amount
of records of bleaching these creatures and was wondering if you
could tell me if this one is. Also visual health indicators if any.
IT eats food and then releases in a slow display 1-2 days later. I
have not had any creatures die from living in my tank only from
lack of knowledge early on.. IE acclimation mishap. I have had two
YTB damsels <??, please, no abbreviations.> whom cycled with
this tank, their neighbors are 2 Serpent Stars 5-6" each, 2
Turbo Snails, 1"er and a 2"er, 1 Scooter Blenny and 1
Porcelain Crab about 2". My stars have made more stars
Whoopee! about 20 that I have seen they are all darker in color?
protection I assume. Camo? <Age.> Oh and four Nassarius
Snails 1cm each. also 4 Blue Leg Hermit Crabs. Oh I have a protein
skimmer and a bio wheel also and 2" bed of sand and crushed
coral a rocks from LFS Tank: 37 gallons 1.023 salinity pH is light
purple I can never distinguish the number. Nitrates seem ok <How
do you know? Seem OK????> I have no way to measure every thing
with my kit. <Should buy the specific kit you are missing.>
What do you feel I should work on... Responsibly.. I have a minimal
budget Also is there any merit too strong household lighting of any
kind for my style tank? Or is aquarium lighting the only way to go.
<Brian, you do not mention what kind of lighting you have. Very
important here on keeping anemones. Kelvin temperature and wattage
is what I'd like to know. Do read here and related
articles/FAQ's above.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condyanemones.htm Also, in future
queries, please cap all proper nouns such as names of fish and
invertebrates. My time and patience run low when I have to
correct/edit queries before posting. James (Salty Dog)>
Brian Stark |
Needs light, reading. RMF.
Re: Condy Systems/Health 2/21/08 Dear,
James (Salty Dog)> <Brian> Thanks for the quick
reply! <You're welcome.> I'm sorry about the
grammar errors. I had gotten so excited after finding your
resource for info I jumbled everything together. <Tis OK,
I just get tired of spending time correcting before posting,
my volunteered time is very limited as I do have a full time
job.> I'll try this again From what you replied, I
need specific lighting for my Anemone. I should not classify
it until I know for sure what species it is. See Picture.
<Is definitely a Condylactis> I have fluorescent bulbs
(2 x 20 watt) 1 is a 18,000 K and the other is an Actinic
spectrum bulb. Both of these are T-8 and made by HAGEN.
<The Kelvin temperature would work but the intensity
(wattage) is much too low for keeping these anemones. A
single 150 watt HQI would do the trick on your tank.> I
have no reflectors for these bulbs. I am now wondering what
could I fit to my 30" x 12" tank? <A Google
search for aquarium lighting will bring gobs of links.
Premium Aquatics for one, has a good selection of lighting
systems including retros.> I am very handy and could build
anything to fit. <Mmm, consider a retro.> I do get very
little direct sunlight from a two pane window. I run my light
from 8AM until 11PM manually, but I own a timer. I read that
wattage is less important than output. <Output is the
wattage or LUX. The Kelvin rating is the color
temperature.> I am interested in making this tank work for
just about anything but not anything new for awhile. Also I
apologize for my lack of water information before. 02/20/2008
These are done with a common test kit. See Pics if it helps.
<No help to me, looks like Kool-Aid suckers. Would need a
reference chart.> I seem to have a spike in my nitrates.
and in the ammonia a little these are usually 0 so I
don't know what is causing this. <Excessive fish load
can be one, as for the nitrates, excess nutrients.> I test
about every week but I don't chart readings, maybe I
should? <A good idea.> Anyways thanks in advance.
<You're welcome.> pH 8.3ppm NH3/NH+4 0.25ppm NO3
20ppm <I'd try to keep this under 10ppm> NO-2
0.00ppm Salinity 1.023 @ 79 degrees I have no algae that I
can see. But there was a Kenya tree that had gotten cold
awhile back it is fine now, but part of it fell off. Could
this be the culprit? <Would help, yes.> Creatures 4
Nassarius Snails 2 Mexican Turbo Snails 4 Blue Leg Hermit
Crabs 2 Yellow Tail Blue Damsels 2 Serpent Starfish 6"
each 20 Serpent Stars 1" less than 1 year old. 1 Anemone
( Please Indent For me ) 1 Scooter Blenny 1 Porcelain Crab 3
Small Kenya tree 37 Gallon Tall 30"x12"x22"
250 GPH Circulation pump Red Sea Protein Skimmer Tank Heater
2" sand and crushed coral base Several Rocks <Your
fish load is not high, a plus.> I hope this helps you help
me. Again thank you so much <You're welcome again. Do
search our site on nutrient/nitrate control and reef
lighting. James (Salty Dog)>
Brian. |
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Condy Disappearance/Health/Systems 2/11/08 Hello
Crew, <Hello Spencer> I recently added a Purple Condy to my tank.
It's been about a month now and just a few days ago I woke up to
find that my clownfish was completely gone. Not a sign of him in the
tank. He was showing no sign of being sick, and was going about the day
with normal behavior. The only conclusion I could come up with was
maybe he was stung and then eaten by the Condy. Now three days after
the disappearance of the clownfish, the Condy seems to have disappeared
as well. The is a little brown silky looking substance in my filter.
<May be the remains of the Condy.> The tank is 10g with a hood,
<Not good, tank too small for keeping such animals and this anemone
also requires strong light of the proper Kelvin temperature to
survive.> and was shared with some hermit crabs, a small Blood
Shrimp, two Mithrax Crabs, and the clown which is now gone as well.
<Are you saying all the other inverts are gone as well?> So I
guess my question is, what might have happened to either of them? I did
just recently within the last few days do a 20 percent water change.
The water I put in was a little cooler then the water that was in there
but the thermometer read 75 after, so a very negligible change in
temperature. This morning I did another 15 percent water change just in
case the Condy did actually die, so I could get some of the ammonia out
of the tank before I could test the water. The Condy's normal
behavior was to deflate once a day and then inflate back up, last night
it was deflated and then gone today. Thank you so much, I hope that you
guys can help with my enigmatic aquarium. <I'm thinking it got
sucked into the filter and died. On the other hand, it may have
attached itself to the underside of a rock out of view. Would not put
anemones in such a small system in the future, will not live, difficult
to keep alive long term to begin with. James (Salty Dog)> Spencer
Hall
Anemone Help/Condylactis 10/22/07 I have been searching
the archives, and alas don't have all night to keep looking
(wish I did, I love reading here). I wrote to you last week about
an SPS frag which succumbed to RTN. I found the culprit, I'm
sure, which was a AA battery in the sump (ah love 2 year olds,
especially one who has a newfound fascination with putting things
where they don't belong, you know, toys in the toilet,
batteries in the tank, pee in the floor vents, that sort of
thing...). <Heehee> I did a 12 gallon water change the next
morning (all the water I had) and kept an eye on the rest of the
inhabitants. The skimmer is currently offline because we are
treating the tank with Kick Ich. <Worthless in my opinion, and
not safe with inverts. I know people who have used this product
and lost corals during the treatment period.> We made the
mistake of not quarantining a new purchase. <Yes.> It had a
single white spot on it's fin when we put it in our tank, and
2 weeks later the whole tank was infected and the new acquisition
was dead (a regal tang). The current problem is with our Condy. I
have some pictures of it when we got it, it was quite small (1.5
inches in diameter or so), very attached to it's rock, which
we ended up buying with it since it wouldn't let go, pinkish
tan in color. It grew a LOT since then, and is about 5 inches in
diameter now. We have been watching it closely for a few days, as
it is growing paler and paler. I took a new picture tonight. It
is white now, almost transparent, but accepted some squid, though
a bit sluggishly. It catches food when the fish are fed generally
as well, so I don't target feed it often, usually when I do
it tries to take my fingers with, so this was a bit of a concern.
It is upright, still attached to its rock. Is there any remedy?
Is it dying? We have had it about 9 months. Tank parameters are
as follows: 50 gallon tank with 29 gallon sump/refugium, one 2
bulb high output T5 fixture with an actinic blue and 10000k. We
have a low output T5 with the same, but we are waiting for a
replacement light as it stopped working. <The use of Kick Ich
didn't help for sure, and the lighting you have isn't
enough for a Condy. The do require intense lighting to survive.
Is best not to have anemones in tanks with corals, especially a
Condy which can/does move quite frequently stinging everything it
passes by, and they do have a potent sting.> dkH 8.4,
Phosphate 0.1, Calcium 360, PH 8.4, Nitrate 20, Nitrite 0,
Ammonia 0. We have about 40-50 lbs of live rock, 2.5 inches of
substrate (Florida crushed coral and live sand). Other
inhabitants are a Yellow tang, <Too small a tank for the
tang.> 2 Yellow Tail Blue Damsels, 2 Percula Clowns, a cleaner
shrimp (red and white, candy cane striped), corals are a
Gorgonian, several Xenia colonies, a Montipora, <Depending on
what type Montipora you have, your lighting may be too low for
this.> Finger Coral, Acropora, Candy Cane Coral, a
Traechyphyllia <Trachyphyllia> and a Scolymia. <Also
require more lighting that you have.> We have a large
Featherduster worm and a rock with some blue mushrooms and some
Zoa polyps, a few largish polyps with tentacles around the edges,
and lots of 'critters' in the substrate. There is a
really cool pink sponge growing on one of the rocks, good
coralline growth, good polyp extension on the corals. Ah, the
only thing I think I left out is that we are also running a UV
sterilizer (not full time, just when we have reason to worry,
like now with the ICH). What is our most likely problem, and can
it be fixed? Our new light was supposed to be here a week ago,
sigh. I am sure that probably plays into the equation. I have 20
gallons of RO water coming to room temp now so I can do a change
in the morning. Anything else I need to do? Attached are 3 pics
of the anemone, the first one is now, the other two were taken in
happier days. <I'd quarantine any fish that appear to be
infected with ich and treat with a copper based medication.
Filter your water through activated carbon, Chemi Pure, or a Poly
Filter to remove the Kick Ich. Your light intensity is going to
have to be doubled to maintain some of the corals you have. Read
here please.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i4/quarantine/Quarantine.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condyanemones.htm Hope this helps you.
James (Salty Dog)>
Re: Anemone Help/Condylactis 10/23/07 Thank
you for your quick reply. <You're welcome.> I do
apologize for asking the obvious. How do I follow up in reply?
I'll give it a shot.. <??> Regarding lighting, we are
aware that we are a little low for the corals, but thought we
were ok for the anemone, <Oh no.> until we had a fixture go
down. The more demanding corals are in the top 6 inches of the
tank. However, everyone has been doing very well until the Ich
and the battery (insult to injury perhaps). The newest thing in
our system (invert wise) is several months old now, wouldn't
we see SOME sign of a problem prior to now? <Not necessarily.
Light loving inverts do not die the next day simply because of
insufficient light, but they do require photosynthesis to take
place so that in turn, food is provided to them as they do
generate most of the nutrition they require. When this process
slowly degenerates, the animals will eventually die. Now,
don't think that if you feed the anemone daily, it won't
have to make any food, not the way it works, but too detailed to
explain here.> All of the corals are growing, eating, behaving
like corals should, aside from the SPS that died. Would
increasing the hours of light help? Currently, the lights are on
about 14-15 hours a day. <No, you a fine here. I'd
probably opt for 12 hours per day with sufficient lighting.>
We have a regular fluorescent light with the actinic and 10000k
bulbs in it (what we started with) out in the shed, would adding
that help? <Yes in regard to being better than what you have,
keeping in mind that about 175-200 watts is what you should be
running in your 50 gallon tank. Time to read here and linked
files above. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm>
Regarding the Ich: I did another 12 gallon or so water change
today, I saved some water aside so I can set up the
quarantine/hospital tank. Got the skimmer running again (it has a
carbon chamber as well). It is a Red Sea brand Prizm Pro skimmer,
is this a decent one, I sure hope it is, it's about the 4th
try. <Yes, a good skimmer for your size tank. I've used
one before and thought it worked quite well, not the best, but
decent.> I will 'attempt' to net all of the fish and
place them in there for a few weeks. <I would net only the
fish that are obviously infected. Not good to treat fish
unnecessarily.> My question here is that all I have room for
is a 10 gallon tank, is that sufficient space for the fish we
have (Yellow Tang, 2 damsels, 2 Percula Clowns)? The tang is not
real big (still the biggest in our tank however), maybe 4 inches
from snout to tail. <No, more problems will arise, get an
additional 10 gallon tank, not expensive. And, as the tang grows,
the 50 gallon tank will be too small.> I did read through the
articles you suggested as well. Is copper safe for all of the
fish we have? <Yes, dosed and monitored properly. Do read the
copper article and linked files again along with the quarantine
link and related files above.> Do I need to offer supplemental
feeds to the rest of the tank (mainly the cleaner shrimp), since
the fish will not be fed in the main display for a while (as they
will be quarantined/medicated)? <Yes, a light feeding every
other day.> Lastly, re: the tang/tank size, as I said, not a
real big fish, yet, and we do plan to upgrade to a larger tank as
soon as funds allow. If it outgrows the tank before we can, then
I suppose back to a LFS it goes, perhaps a trade on some other
specimens to fuel our addiction. Ah, and the Condy has moved
exactly once, after we had to dismantle 3/4 of the tank to catch
the infected Regal Tang. I guess it really likes it's corner.
BTW, own your book (The Conscientuous <Conscientious>
Marine Aquarist sorry if I spelled it wrong) and love it :)
<And you, my friend, need to keep reading/learning. James
(Salty Dog)>
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Lighting For A Condy In A Nano Reef 9/17/07 Hi, <Hello
Jane> i <Ah, another querier with a broken shift key.> have a
nano reef, it is five gallons. I placed a Condy in it about a few days
ago. It has burrowed it's foot in the sand. I think it's doing
well as of now because I'm feeding it and putting in an iodine
supplement. It looks healthy, as I can see. Right now there's about
25 watts of lighting, and the water is perfect. Is this an okay set up,
and if not, what do you suggest. I'm open to more lighting, is that
is necessary. Thanks, and let me know. <Jane, the five gallon nano
is much too small for keeping a Condy. Anemones are difficult to keep
in a large system, let alone in a five gallon. The lighting itself
should be sufficient if the lamp is at least 6000K, but my advice is to
return the Condy, you will be asking for trouble down the road. Any
fish/coral in the nano will be subject to stings from the anemone in
such small quarters. And when the anemone dies, if unnoticed, your nano
will become toxic to all other life present. James (Salty Dog)>
-Jane <In future queries, please cap beginnings of sentences, proper
nouns, etc. Makes our job easier if we do not have to edit before
posting. Thank you.>
Making Friends With His Anemone! Anemones
lighting and positioning 8/13/07 My
anemone, Medusa, was seemingly doing well and perhaps he still is
but he has recently moved to the top of the tank which is
obviously closer to the lighting but also closer to the water
flow from the Penguin filter. <When anemones move, they are
generally telling us that something is not right for them in
their present position. Typically, this is related to water flow
and/or lighting.> When he was in the lower position, he looked
happy and he was eating. Should I be concerned that he has moved
so close to the top? What do you think this movement means? Is he
not getting enough food? Light? <As you suspect, this is
usually a response to some parameter being not to the
anemone's liking. Observe the anemone's behavior in
it's new position. In particular, pay close attention to the
animal's orientation to the lighting and flow. Is it closing
up? Is the animal trying to orient itself into the flow, or away
from it? Is the animal feeding, has color changed, etc?> 2nd
subject: Algae. I recently bought the Nova Extreme fixture and
ever since I have had an awful time with red algae on my rocks.
I've tried to limit the lighting time but that still
hasn't solved the problem. Do I need to increase the water
changes? <Typically, algae blooms are a function of nutrients
in conjunction with lighting. Increased lighting intensity and/or
longer photoperiods alone do not cause such blooms. Be sure take
into consideration the entire picture. Could your source water be
high in a nutrient that algae favors? If so, the increased
lighting could result in such a bloom. If you're using RO/DI
water, do check the membranes/prefilters to assure that they are
not saturated. If they are, of course, replacement would make a
big difference. Water changes with properly conditioned water are
never a bad idea, of course, so do keep them up. Frequent,
consistent small (like 10% of system capacity) water changes are
never a bad idea.> Happily, my water parameters are all good.
Thanks in advance. My tank: Blue Regal Tang Yellow Tang Coral
Beauty Dwarf Angel Tricolor Fairy Wrasse Royal Gramma Mandarin
Dragonet Scissortail Dartfish Redfire Shrimp Green Fluorescent
Mushrooms Sand Sifting Sea Star Snails: Bumble Bee, Super Tongan
Nassarius, Mexican Turbo, Zebra Turbo Lots of rock, decorative
and live Equipment 55 gallon, 48x12x18 Penguin BioWheel 350
SeaClone 100 Skimmer Nova Extreme T-5 Fixtures w/Lunar Lights
(48" - 216 watts) 2 SlimPaq 460nm Actinic and
2-10000°K T-5 HO lamps 18 watt turbo twist UV
sterilizer <If it were me- I'd keep up the water changes,
observe the anemone continuously, and be prepared to take action,
if necessary for the anemone. Do review those water parameters
regularly (particularly phosphate, silicate, and nitrate)...these
parameters can give you some clues about what may be causing the
algae bloom. Continued success to you! Regards, Scott F.>
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Pink tip anemone... sys., sel. 7/21/07 First
off your site and FAQ's are awesome. I have a 14 gallon Nano cube (
recent addition) I also have a 170 gallon FOWLR tank. My wife fell in
love with a pink tip anemone at the LFS and brought it home for the
Nano tank. <... Not a smart process for livestocking...> Well as
most people know this guy likes to move. He will hang out in the same
general area, but move from side to side. I have a Pipe Organ coral and
a couple mushroom colonies in there also. There hasn't been a
problem with stinging yet, but is this a possibility? <In a word,
yes> If so I want to move the pink tip anemone to the FOWLR tank,
but worry my rather large Puffer will eat it. <It could> The
FOWLR also has some rather large red hermit crabs that I have been told
might eat it as well. <Ditto> The pink tip anemone has been
rather peaceful ( though I suspect it ate my cardinal fish) Any
suggestions on what is the best solution. I personally think the Nano
is too small for the pink tip anemone, but my wife swears the LFS said
it would be fine <Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm Scroll down to the tray
on Anemones, re Condylactis... Bob Fenner>
Haitian Anemone, Condylactis lighting questions -- 3/9/07 Hi
Bob, <Hi Aaron, Brenda here> Thanks for all of your
help. We all really appreciate it. <You're
welcome> I have a quick question about my Haitian
Anemone. I bought it from my LFS, and put it in my 125 reef
ready, all water Parameters fine. Last night I manually
turned my lights off and forgot to turn the switch back on so they
would automatically come on. So when I got home today the
lights were still off and the Anemone looked like it ate
itself. It was all sucked into itself. I'm
sure you know what I mean. It is slowly coming
out. I'm sure it's cause of the light situation,
plus my light is not enough in the first place, about 200
watts. <Your right, it is not enough lighting to keep an
anemone.> Is it going to be ok? <No> Is this a common thing to
happen if light is absent for a long period. <I don't consider
one day a long period of time.> I've been feeding it pieces of
table shrimp, and it loves it. It is the only invert right
now. I'm just using it to practice. <I
don't believe in using anemones to practice. A better
solution is to research their requirements before you
purchase. I suggest returning the anemone to the LFS until
you can provide an adequate environment.> Thank You
Aaron <You're welcome! Brenda>
Can I add an anemone? - 2/26/07 Good Morning Gang!
<Good Evening Jeff, Brenda here tonight!> My FOWLR DT has been up
and running for three years without any major issues.
<Great!> I have an opportunity to add a small Condi and want to
know what your opinions are. <It won't stay small
for long.> I have a 55 with a 3.5 to 4.5" DSB and about 65 lbs
of LR. Water parameters are great...0 ammonia...0
nitrites....5ppm or less nitrates....8.2 to 8.4 ph....1.025
SG....refugium in process to assist with BGA. I have a 260
PC light and a lot of water circulation....Rio 3100 return pump and two
power heads in the tank. <You will need to cover the
power heads with the addition of any anemone. Salinity needs
to be 1.026, nitrates zero.> I have three damsels, Royal
Gramma, Hippo Tang, snails, hermits, serpent star and a
brittle star. I have two false Percs in QT as of last
night. How would the addition of the anemone affect this
tank/livestock? I know the lighting and water flow
are covered...I just don't want to jeopardize my fish. <Seven
fish and an anemone would be pushing it. I recommend waiting
until the new clownfish have been in their new home for a while to see
if your tank can handle it. Anemones need pristine water
conditions. A Condylactis will not host a
clownfish. If this was your plan, Entacmaea quadricolor
(BTA) would be a better choice. Even then, there is still no
guarantee they will host. Your tank is a bit small for a
tang. I don't see a protein skimmer listed. I
suggest getting one if you don't already have one. More
information can be found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condyanemones.htm >
Thanks!! Jeff <You're welcome! Brenda>
Condy Anenome injury 9/26/06 Hello! I've have
had a very beautiful Condy for 4+ months now. He recently got stuck on
the intake of my powerhead. <Need to be covered/screened...>
After turning off the powerhead and waiting, he moved to another part
of the aquarium. He is now a lot smaller than he originally was, and I
am worried that he may not be able to feed himself
properly. He doesn't have as many or as long of
tentacles as he used too. His mouth is now always
visible. The injury happened about 1.5 weeks ago. I have
since covered the intake of the powerhead with a foam sponge. <Good
idea> Should I be doing something special to feed this guy?
<Perhaps. Worth trying> He's looking pretty good considering
what he has gone through, but I'm worried that he might be
starving. Thanks in advance! RK <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condyanemones.htm and the linked
files above. BobF>
Re: Condy Anenome injury 9/27/06 Bob: Thanks so
much for your input. My concern with this Anenome is how to feed him.
Since so many of his tentacles are missing, he doesn't seem to be
able to move any food that he catches to his mouth. Should I
try to insert food directly into his mouth?? RK <Can, I would.
BobF>
Anemone Health/Who turned the lights off?
3/17/06 I have a 45 gallon mature tank, 110 watt light, one side
blue actinic, one side kelvin white light. We have a
bio-wheel filter and a red sea protein skimmer. I recently
added a pink Haitian anemone. It looks very
bad. We have had it nearly a week and have yet to see it
eat. It shrivels up at night and looks very shriveled and
brown the next morning. It has been filling out after a
little while under the light, but today it must have been two hours or
more before filling out and it still did not look great. It
has suctioned to the side of the glass, about middle ways
down. Water tests okay, except nitrates are at
40. First question, what do we do to help the
anemone? <Your tank and lighting are both undersized for
keeping such. Difficult to keep for any length of time under
ideal conditions. Do google our site, keyword, anemones.>
Second question- We also are having a problem with brown algae
growth. What causes it and what can we do? <Do google our
site. Much information present on algae control.> Will it
hurt the fish? <No.> Finally- Is there a way that we
can promote green algae growth? <Pretty tough to want to
control one type of algae and promote growth of another. We try to
avoid algae, why would you want to encourage it? I'm sure there is
enough algae present already to keep the urchin going, crabs do not
require it to survive.> We have crabs and urchins that
probably would appreciate it. We have been using the
chatroom, but we would like your direction. Help!!! Thanks
so much- <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Condylactis Lighting/Feeding - 02/22/06 I've read many of
your lighting/feeding articles and am having a little trouble
determining if my lighting/feeding is adequate for my giant Condy.
<<Mmm, ok...let's see if I can help.>> I have a 46 gal
tank that's about 16 to 17" in depth. The Condy is
situated in a crevice of rock at the bottom of the tank. I
have a light from a previous tank that overhangs this tank a bit
(it's a 4' light on a 3'tank). Since I already
invested in the light for a tank that cracked I really wanted to see if
I could continue to use it. <<I see>> Here are the
specifications of the light: Orbit 4 X 65 watt PC fixture. It contains
SunPaq Dual Daylight (10,000K & 6,700K), Dual Actinic (460nm &
420nm) and a Lunar Light 2-65w Dual Daylight & 2-65w Dual Actinic
lamps <<Ok, got it...I think. This is probably
"enough" light on this tank for the Condy, though it would
appreciate/benefit from replacing one of the actinic bulbs with another
daylight bulb.>> I run the Daylight lights from 8:00am to 5:00pm
and the Actinic lights from 7:00am to 6:00pm. I also have
some Xenia in the tank that is growing nicely and
spreading. Other members include a large clown who came
along with the Condy, a goby, a cleaner shrimp, a hermit crab, and a
reef lobster. <<I'd keep an eye on the lobster...will likely
dine on its tankmates sooner or later.>> All get along nicely.
<<For now>> I feed small amounts twice a
day. The clown rounds up as much shrimp and formula 1 as it
can and eagerly stuffs the food into the Condy. Should I be
feeding the Condy in addition to this? If so, what?
<<If the pieces are small enough...and you can truly ascertain
the anemone is ingesting the food (and keeping it in!), then fine, let
the clown feed the anemone. But much of the time, what the
fish gives the anemone is not really accepted even though it seems the
anemone eats. These animals really prefer food items much
smaller than most people realize. Do try target feeding
"diced/minced" meaty foods (not brine shrimp!) and see how
the anemone responds. The Condy and clown are new to the tank and look
great! Thanks for your help - you folks are great! Frank
<<Welcome Frank. Regards, EricR>>
Condylactis anemone in new hands 9/9/04 I got a Condy anemone
that came with some LR and I have no idea really what they eat, how to
feed them or how to know when to feed them I have been doing tons of
research but cant find what I need <look harder my friend... the
information is sitting there in the archives and beyond. Use the Google
search tool on the home page (wetwebmedia.com) with key word/phrase
searches for things like "anemones feeding",
"Condylactis", etc> I wasn't planning on an anemone
for a few months at least also its kinda turning a little brown and
I'm wondering if its my lights I only have 2 18 watt lights which I
know is way to low <this is very low light indeed... concerning. And
the anemone is turning brown from the waning of UV reflective pigments
and or the increase in zooxanthellae trying to catch the weakly
available light> is there even a chance of it making it with those
lights <not likely my friend> cause I'm only 15 and cant
really get the money all that quickly to buy new lights but any info
will do it seems to be doing somewhat good but I really don't know
any help is good <understood... do try to keep this anemone in the
top 10" of water for maximum light exposure... and feed it finely
minced meaty foods (krill, mysids, plankton, etc) a few times
weekly> Thanks Andrew <best regards, Anthony>
Condylactis anemone <Hi Jerry!> Thanks, he just moved
under the rock. Today he was at the highest point of the rock, I think
he likes it in my tank I'm gonna feed him today. I feed him every
other day frozen silversides (man those stink). I wish they came live.
Is silver sides natural Condy prey? Thanks JM <In the wild they
would likely take whatever small prey they could sting and catch.
Don't forget to feed a variety of raw marine meats. Good to include
shrimp, clam, mussel, etc. Small bits, no bigger than 1/4".
Anemone does not live by silversides alone!. Craig>
Condylactis anemone <Hi Jerry> Ok, 2 hours after I
wrote this email he moved for the first time out of his spot. He moved
under a rock. Weird, he can't get any light under there. I think I
may have too much light. The tank is longer than it is deep, it's
13 inches deep. I don't know, what do you think? <Not to worry,
these anemones are known for moving around aquariums quite a bit.
That's part of the deal. You can read about your anemone at
WetWebMedia.com. Type "Condylactis Anemone" in the google
search engine. They do stuff like this, let him work it out.
Craig>
Re: HELP! new anemone owner! thanks! <<You are
welcome.>> I have good lighting and circulation, in fact I had to
move it so it wouldn't be blown around by the whisper filter too
much. its kind of small maybe 3 inches across or less. would it be okay
to feed it a piece of a shrimp like once a week to supplement the
pellets? <<You could - I don't know enough about these
pellets, and more often than not I prefer to use food I can identify -
fish, squid, clam, etc.>> and one more thing, would it be okay to
have a FEW soft corals in my tank? <<Again, it depends on your
lighting. You didn't really reveal anything about it, just that it
is 'good' - what type of bulbs, what output wattage? These are
important to giving you a good answer.>> not right away but
slowly add them? <<No matter what you add, you should add
slowly.>> maybe a max number of 5 different easy species?
<<depends on the light.>> and some mushrooms and polyps of
course? <<don't see why not.>> or would the anemone
sting them? <<only if placed right next to each other.>> I
have plenty of space to go around so it seems like it should be fine.
what about "chemical ware fare"? <<depends on the
corals you select.>> sorry for all the questions but this is my
first marine tank. <<Many of these questions have been asked and
answered and are posted within WetWebMedia. You should avail yourself
to this resource.>> Thanks for all the help. Clint
<<Cheers, J -- >>
Re: HELP! new anemone owner! <<Hello again,
Clint...>> my lighting is 2 Coralife 20K high intensity purified
super daylight lamps (that sounds kind of like of just boosting the
selling power of these bulbs by using the words "super and
purified" but that all came from the box. <<Sounds like
standard manufacturer babble.>> it also says that fish coral and
macroalgae thrive in its glow. bright high intensity output and the
technical info says 360 degree output (please explain this I have no
idea what that means) 15 watt fluorescent. <<Sounds like more box
babble to me.>> 15 watts doesn't seem like very much to me
but the box said coral likes it and the pet store owner assured me it
was fine. <<Yeah, 15 watts is a little low, and even with the two
together 30w is really not enough for your anemone or soft corals that
you wish to place.>> please help! the corals I was thinking about
were maybe a leather coral, bubble coral, and a xenia. Thanks a lot for
all the help your advice is very useful o me. <<You have other
options when it comes to lighting, and without something more intense,
or many more of the 15w bulbs, you'll be quite challenged to get
those corals to thrive. Check out these URLs:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/fixtures.htm >>
Clint <<Cheers, J -- >>
Condy anemone <Anthony Calfo, in your service> What are
the lighting requirements for a Condy anemone? <depends on where it
was collected, but can be categorized as moderate to high light> I
bought one yesterday and currently have a 50 watt bulb on my
125.... <indeed... it would shrivel and die within months>
BUT, I have 4 Coralife ballasts to put on my tank if that will help
it. <if they are standard fluorescent bulbs (40watt?) it will
still be too weak for the depth of a 125 gallon tank. Such lights do
not penetrate deep enough. The necessary lights to keep this anemone
will cost 100X the price of the anemone...hehe. Do need to research
before you buy animals, my friend> He found a spot near a rock not
long after I introduced him into the tank. Would the Custom Sea Life
PC's work, too? <now we are talking, goombah!> I also
bought some live phytoplankton for him to eat as well........
<fine zooplankton as much or more please> Any info would be
great, as I am having a hard time finding info on this anemone. <not
the hardiest in captivity but popular because they are inexpensive.
Best regards, Anthony> Thanks, Kim
Re: Condy anemone Thank you for the info , goombah! :)
<hehe...> As for lighting goes, would VHO be even better?
<not necessarily better than PC, But very good. I like them a
lot> or what about a MH Pendant (the round ones)? <excellent but
more complicated and intense than you may need if you do not end up
with a full blow reef. My vote is for PC or VHO and keep the anemone as
high as it will allow you.> the goombah! <Ha! The
silverbacks...aging Italian gentlemen...ewwwwh!>
Re: Anemones, local and not Hi, Bob. Thank You for Your quick
reply. One more question. Is the anemone 'Entacmaea
quadricolor' a good anemone for my tank which has only 2 x 20 W
fluorescent bulbs. One is a 50/50 type. Or are there other, better
anemones that don't require too much light? <You could use
such low intensity lighting with a Bubble Tip Anemone... but I
wouldn't... won't be as happy, healthy as if you had two, three
or more intensity lighting... I encourage you instead to look into the
"local" anemones: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/twaanemones.htm
Perhaps just the easy to keep "Condys". Bob Fenner>
Thanks, Bernd
Re: Anemones, local and not Hi Bob and thanks again. I
checked your website about Condylactis anemones. Can
'passiflora' and gigantea adjust to low light? I might be able
to collect those myself. Thanks, Bernd <Yes indeed my friend. Bob
Fenner>
Condylactis Bob, I'm happy to have found you again
through WetWebMedia, you have really helped me with your information.
In the past, I have sought your advise through FFExpress but as of late
it seems they are utilizing multiple sources to address
inquiries. <I understand> I prefer to use one source and
stick to their advice, namely you. <Again, I understand, well,
I think so!> My questions are regarding Condylactis; I purchased two
of them a couple of days ago. Upon acclimating them to my 75 gallon
tank they immediately attached to my live rock and even repositioned
themselves over the next couple of hours. They looked good, the
tentacles were turgid and from their movement I can see they had enough
water circulating around them. Then yesterday one of them moved to a
location, which can best be described as "cave like" still
attached to the live rock and it's tentacles were not as
turgid but were still searching about it's surroundings. The other
remained in the same location and was fully open. I was curious, so I
feed both of them freeze dried plankton, which they both eagerly ate.
Should I be concerned about the Condy in the cave? <Nah.
Natural, expected behavior... not much to do anywise...> I have 220
watts of pc lighting (110 actinic, 110 full spectrum), which is short
of the recommend wattage by about 1 watt per gallon. All water
parameters are excellent, except for phosphates which are high and
I have discussed with you in the past. Additional questions: Will the
members of my clean up crew, blue crabs, snails, etc harm the
Condys? <Likely not> Do Condylactis come in different
colors as my LFS explained? <Yep, and a few species> Of the
two I purchased one has a white base with white medium to long
tentacles and purple tips. The other has an orange to peach colored
base with brownish tentacles. Thanks in advance for your help.
Nick >> <Be chatting my friend, Bob Fenner>
Question on anemone <<Hi Jerry>> Will Condylactis
get along with other Condys? also if you have to 50 watts on a 30
gallon would that equal 100 watts which is 3.3 watts per gallon is that
acceptable for this species? also do they have algae in there tissue?
like a plant thanks JM <<I wouldn't get another one if
that's where you're going! You don't have the first one
saved yet! One thing here Jerry. I want you to think about this. I know
that stores sell these for cheap, but they are not really the best for
beginners, AAMOF, they don't tend to live very long in captivity.
Now for the kicker. They live **FOREVER** in the wild. They are
essentially immortal in the wild and usually live less than a year in
captivity. You have to do your best to make right by something that
would live forever if it wasn't in the store and then your tank.
Now to the light. This is important as I've been trying to get you
to understand. It's like this. You know how bright the sun is? Well
even if you were able to gather all of the 50 watt bulbs in the world
together over your tank, it would never come close to the sun. It's
the same for the 50 watt lights you want. It will still only be 50
watts INTENSITY no matter how many you use. You need BIGGER, MORE
INTENSE lighting than regular aquarium lighting, like Metal Halide,
Very High Output Florescent, or Power Compact fixtures. Please go to
this link and read about lighting: There are some good posts about not
getting two anemones as well.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonelightngfaqs.htm
Craig>>
Re: question on Condy anemone <<Hi Jerry>> Hi
thank you I will put another 20 watt on the tank and he should do well
I think will they die if he gets 2 watts per gallon? I've had him
for 4 days and he looks good and he eats flakes I give him and he
isn't sick will he sting if I go to move him higher up on the rock?
Thanks JM <<Okay, Jerry, you didn't read the link below, did
you? Jerry, we want to help you keep your anemone alive. Will you
please read the link so you can get the help you need? As I wrote you
yesterday, this anemone needs *high intensity lighting* not more
wattage of *LOW intensity* lighting. That means Metal Halide, VHO, or
Compact Florescent lighting at 3-5 watts per gallon for an average
18-20" deep tank. The flake food is fine on occasion but will not
sustain this anemone for long. He eats anything because there isn't
enough light. I would not suggest you move the anemone or try to handle
it, this will do more harm to an already stressed animal. He needs more
light, better food, and to be left to find his own place when those
conditions are met. If you were to move him, first, you could injure
him and second, he would move back to the highest point in the
tank/light anyway. PLEASE read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
and follow the links from there.>> <<Good luck,
Craig>>
Re: question on Condy anemone thank you I am buying a 50/50
55watt hood and a 40 watt sunlight hood to put on the tank will this
sustain his need? I read the link and it is very helpful with the 50
and 40 I should have enough wattage I wish the pet store lady would
have told me this will he live one more week till I get the hood
updated? Thanks JM <<Hey Jerry>> <<Sounds better. You
might try AHlighting supply, Champion lighting supply, or Marine Depot
for affordable lighting. 90 watts will be the minimum and your Condy
will still want to be close to the top of the tank, so you may want to
build the rock up higher in an isolated area directly under the
strongest light and give him the option of getting up close. If you can
afford more light, like two 65 pc's, one for each side or two long
fixtures, the higher light intensity and reflector would be appreciated
by the anemone. The only other thing is to stop off at the store and
buy some seafood for your dinner and then share with your anemone. I
hope this works out for you. Try to get the lights ASAP and feed marine
meats in the meantime. One thing this will do is prepare you for other
light demanding inhabitants later on. Have FUN!>> <<Cheers,
Craig>>
Condylactis anemone hi me again this is a picture of his disk
and tentacles does he look ok his tentacle are open and bright his
mouth is shut and he always eats good <<Yep, looks good to me.
Glad to see his disc is more brown than white, this is good. Keep him
fed and well lit. Good luck! Craig>>
Condylactis anemone <<Hi Jerry!>> Hi I got it
through and bought a 70 watt ballast and have a 70 watt daylight and a
30 watt actinic blue t12 I think hell like it better than the 30 watt I
had on when I got him do they reproduce in captivity? like split into
more anemones? or do you need another one two mate? thanks for all your
great information <<Glad you got more light. The more the better
(up to a point!). I haven't heard of Condy's splitting like the
other varieties or of them being bred in captivity. Just get him in the
proper conditions to survive for an extended period. Most people,
including public aquariums, have dismal successes over one year with
these anemones. It has been done but they are difficult to put it
bluntly. Give it your best shot! Craig>>
Question on anemone (Condy care) <<Hi Jerry!>> hi
I'm gonna take your advice on my Condy anemone I'm buying 70
watt daylight and a 30 watt actinic blue I hear anemones love actinic
blue heel appreciate this and I was wondering could I feed him guppies
the lady at the pet store feed the saltwater fish them so I figured
he'd like them will he last 4 more days till I get my new light
setup? I plan to buy him silver side the day I get the brighter hood
thanks on your great advice JM <<This sounds better. The more
light up to 5 watts per gallon, the better!!! Bubble tips like more
blue, your Condy would just love lots of light! I wouldn't feed
guppies. Stop at the store on the way home from work and go to the
seafood section. Buy some small shrimp (uncooked, not pink), prawns,
scallops, etc. Just cut it into 1/4" or smaller pieces and feed it
to him (on a piece of clear stiff air tube). You don't need special
fish food! He will need to eat two more times before you get the
lights. Hope this works for you, Craig>>
Condylactis anemone <Hi Jerry> I think I feed him too
much, I feed him half an inch, he still gobbles it down. <Don't
overdo it.> I notice when he's about to move his foot bloats up
looks like its gonna explode and it shrinks gets bigger than shrinks
gets bigger than shrinks is this how they move? thanks JM <Yep, Have
fun. Craig>
Re: Condylactis anemone He died today very bad news. At least
he was still whole. I knew when I saw him today he was bloated 3 times
his size and looked like he was gonna explode my nitrates are still
low. Thought I'll try again. I wonder what made him die after 3
weeks of having him? I have good water good light good food huh? What
anemone do you recommend that is easy to take care of and lives long?
Thanks very disappointing. <I'm sorry to hear your anemone died
Jerry. Your tank is very new and even though you say the nitrates are
still low, you want perfectly pristine water for anemones and a well
established tank. I would run with what you have for at least a year
while you let things settle in a bit. I know this sounds like a long
time, but as you can see, anemones like things really stable and your
tank is too young to be really stable yet. When your tank is ready I
recommend you shop around for a Bubble Tip Clone (Entacmaea
quadricolor) perhaps the hardiest anemone in captivity. My condolences
on your Condy. This is a common problem, don't feel alone.
Craig>
My Boyfriend Bought Me...Condy! Hi <Hi there! Scott F.
with you tonight!> I need some help!!!! I recently
bought a Haitian pink tip anemone, and I need
some information. I purchased some frozen food for it today,
recommended by a local pet store. When I feed it do I need
to cut it up or leave it in cubes?? <Definitely cut up the food into
smaller pieces, and don't overfeed. You can squirt some of the food
into the anemones tentacles with a turkey baster (very appropriate this
time of year!). How do I care for it?? When I bought it I
didn't ask too many questions, cause I thought that my boyfriend
knew what to do with it! Please Help Thanks Christie
<Well, Christie, first thing that you need to do is slap that guy!
You now know never to buy any animal, especially an anemone, before you
study up on it! Enough lecture...Fortunately, these are the among the
hardiest of anemones. However, they still require bright light,
vigorous current, and clean, stable water conditions in order to
thrive. They can get quite large and very colorful with proper care.
They generally will not host Clownfishes, being a Caribbean species,
however, larger Clownfishes, such as Tomato clowns, do sometimes take
up residence in them. These anemones can and will move around in the
tank until they find a spot that's just to their liking, so make
sure that all filter intakes, powerheads, etc., are configured so that
the anemone is not accidentally drawn in and injured or killed should
it wander around. With attention to the environment, and proper care,
these anemones can live for many, many years. Do a search on this
species using the Google search feature on the wetwebmedia.com site for
more information. Good luck! Scott F.>
- Condylactis Lighting - Hi guys. <Hello, JasonC
here...> The LFS (usually pretty trustworthy) told me that Condys
don't need intense lighting. <I'm not sure I agree with that
at all. The Condylactis are as photosynthetic as any other anemone.
They keep theirs in one of those shelf systems on the bottom
shelf....it's almost dark in there!! <Well, they have the
advantage that they can replace that anemone when it craps out, giving
the illusion that it's lived there for a long time. I would be
willing to bet that they kill one a couple of times a year.> Also,
they told me that you can only count on Maroon Clowns to pair up with
them. <I doubt that... Condylactis anemones hail from the tropical
Atlantic and Maroon Clowns are Pacific in origin, although Condylactis
anemones do show up in the Pacific.> I thought that ALL anemones
required tons of experience and tons of light... what's the deal
with my LFS? <Who knows... do read up on the Condylactis here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/twaanemones.htm
> Matt <Cheers, J -- >
Condylactis Anemone Lighting Requirements <Hello again>
I am sorry Ryan for being so short. I just did not want to make a long
one out of it. I do have about 85-90lbs of live rock but no sand bed I
just have some crushed coral and the live rock. <Good to hear>
Thx for the link and I am sure I will find the info on what the sand
bed does. <Yes, it should help. Also good to have if you
ever want to dabble in corals.> But just incase I am a bigger idiot
then I thought Please let me know on the sand deal. <I'll give
you the benefit of the doubt! You're just providing
refuge for beneficial life in your tank that ordinarily would perish
without the safety of a sand bed.> Thx sooooooooooooo much for the
help and all the others there as well <Absolutely.>
PS I don't remember if I mentioned my tank is 24"
deep. Is my lighting still good ? I know these Condys like to move.
<Yes, they'll move to where they life it. Your
lighting should be just fine, just research the photoperiod and stick
to it. Ryan> Michael
Condylactis Anemone Lighting Requirements <Hi! Ryan with
you> Hi my name is Michael and I have a 92G Oceanic corner tank and
have been studying about Condys. I think I want one but I want to make
sure about the lighting I have. In the very back of the tank I
have 2- 28W Actinic PC's, in front of that I have a 175W MH 5500K,
and in front of that I have 1-96W 10K PC, and in front of that 1-96W
actinic PC. Is this enough lighting for a anemone
"Condy"? I LOVE YOU GUYS! Thanks for being
here. Michael <Michael, it sounds like you're on your way
to providing a good home for anemones. You'll have about
4-5 watts per gallon with your current lighting- sounds
appropriate. I can't stress enough that you need high
water quality. You didn't mention live
rock/sand. I wouldn't even try an anemone of any sort
without a deep sand bed and 1-2 pounds of live rock per
gallon. These links should prove helpful in your research:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condylactis.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/twaanemones.htm
Best of luck! Ryan>
Lighting for a Condy (10-3-03) Hey guys,<Howdy, Cody here
today.> I have another question.. I was interested in purchasing a
Condy anemone... I am not sure what its full name is but I wanted to
know do these guys need strong lighting.. I have a 60 gal tank.. its
14.5" tall.. currently I have 120watts of light (2 50/50, and 1
marine Glo) is this enough... and if not how much more should I get..
seeing that at the moment its 2 watt per gallon..<They are not as
demanding as some of the other anemones but they still require higher
lighting than what you have now. There are too many
different lighting choices to give you a general rule but do some
research on the Wet Web site and you should be able to find everything
you need. Cody>
Condy Candy >I want to thank you for an invaluable
resource first of all! >>You're welcome. >Secondly, I have
a few questions about a Candy (floridia (sp) I believe)
anemone. >>That would be a Condylactis anemone.
>I recently got one free with my live rock/sand
order. After reading up on it I understand that these are
inexpensive and common anemones which also do not have that high rate
of success. >>Well, anemones in general have a poor
success rate, however, Condys and BTA's (bubble tips) have a better
than average rate of success - BTAs more so with advanced reefers.
>When I first put him in the tank (50 gallon with 2x 250w MH and 2x
96w PC) he was small, but opened up after 1 day, and I kept the MH off
for the first few days. I had placed him in a position just
next to a small piece of rock in the middle of the tank where there is
very high water flow that changes direction due to crossing currents,
and he hasn't moved since I put him there. I am assuming
he likes his placement? >>It would move if it
didn't. Don't be surprised if it does
move. Keep those powerhead and other intakes well-protected!
>I have been feeding him almost daily about a ¼ to
½ inch piece of squid in addition to any small Mysid or
blood worms that get stuck on his tentacles. >>I
would not feed bloodworms to any of your animals on a regular
basis. They're great for getting certain picky eaters
going on feed, but once eating, stick with marine-based foods. >I
now know that 1/4 is the optimal size and not to go over
that. >>1/4 what? >He started out completely white
with only small purple dots on the tips of his tentacles; however, I
have been noticing the beginning of a color change in him and
definitely a brown/green hue to him on one side. Is that the
color I can expect and I gather this is his new crop of
zooxanthellae? >>More than likely, it's probably
brighter/more intense in your system than from whence he came.
>There were 2 days that when I would come home, he would be
completely withdrawn, but my fiancé said he had just gone to
that state and had been out all day. I looked closer and my
pistol shrimp had made an entrance to his burrow under that
rock. That hole is now closed up and the Condy doesn't
stay out and about all day and night. >>Not unusual, but could be
a sign of a problem. Watch for disintegration. If
that happens, you know he's a goner and MUST remove it immediately.
>Any words of advice? >>Those were them up there.
>I am kind of disappointed that my tomatoes wont host in him (they
are very small still) and was planning on getting a BTA, however, now
that I have this Condy, I don't want to encourage chemical
warfare. >>I think you have some things mixed up
here, my friend. You know that the Condy is an Atlantic
species. This means that all clowns, Pacific specifically,
never host such an animal in nature. It's not unheard of
for them to host these and other things (Goniopora, hammer corals,
frogspawn, powerheads, lift tubes, overflows, et al), but don't
keep the cake waiting on it. If you're new, I would strongly
recommend waiting at LEAST a year before attempting something like a
BTA. Get more experience under your belt, anemones and sea
stars are among the most difficult of inverts to keep. >Such a
gorgeous creature, I hope I can keep him alive and well. >>We do
too. Keep that water in pristine parameters (near sea water
quality), and you should be on your way. Feeding him is
good, but do change out the bloodworms for something else. >Thanks
again, -Darien Ford >>You're welcome, mate. Have
fun with the Condy, and try not to worry too much (but be
diligent). Marina
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