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Refugium for a 7 gal nano tank I just finished fabricating a fuge for a 7gal nano-reef and wanted to know if it's worth my while to put a 6in deep sand bed in it. It's 17" long, 5" wide, and 14" deep. << Six inches is pretty deep. I'd say four inches is great. >> With a small surface area I know that a DSB won't do much but the tank is only 7gal. Would it have any benefit or should I just stick with some LR rubble and macro? << Oh I'd have a deep sand bed. I think it could really help out. It certainly wouldn't hurt (at least I don't see how). >> << Blundell >> A model mini-reef 8/26/04 Hello to all the fine folks at WWM, you guys are top notch! <thanks kindly... Anthony Calfo in your service> I will try to make this email as concise as possible, as I know you are a busy bunch. So.....I have a 20H reef set-up, with a 2x55 W PC hood (one 50/50, one 12,000K bulb), <very good wattage for this sized tanks... and a good color choice. Most folks make the mistake of using too much blue light> a 10 gallon sump containing a Berlin air lift skimmer (surprisingly efficient, for this set-up at least), power filter with PolyFilter (say that 5 times fast), and a 5 gallon gravity fed fuge. 4 gallons of water are changed weekly, <excellent> and all mechanical media is rinsed in conjunction with H20 changes. <very impressive too> I use distilled water for top-off (buffered), <spot-on> and I dose C-balance as necessary. I dose no trace elements or snake oils, as I have not felt the need to thus far. KH is stable at 10, calcium 350 or so, spg. reads 1.024, temp. fluctuates from 76 to 80 degrees daily (I know, whip out the red flags), and the ph is stable at 8.4. <outstanding overall... but yes, do try to wrangle that temp flux to be tighter> I know the temperature is an issue, as natural reefs vary less than 2 degrees on a yearly basis, so I am coping with that. <yes... or at least that stable temps in aquaria are better husbandry> It may even be the primary cause of the slight issue I am having, but I will let those who know more than I be the judge of that. At any rate, the issue I am facing is little to no appreciable coral growth for the past 6 months or so. Inhabitants are as follows-1 purple frilly gorgonian, one lime green softie from IPSF f (a Neptheid I assume, although I am unsure of it's exact identity...if you wish to venture a guess, please do :)), one small colony of yellow polyps (Parazoanthus, not Tubastrea...just to avoid confusion), and one small rock with 3 green Ricordea polyps (damn these guys grow slooooowly). <yes... they do not feed organismally and as such depend on dissolved organics. Do try to allow some nitrates to linger by heavier indirect feedings (more food to fishes or other corals)> All of the corals "look" healthy, there is indeed great polyp extension and color....no signs of distress. They just don't seem to grow though, and it really baffles me. <arguably the slow growth is a blessing in a tan this small though> The gorgonian does show more growth than the other corals (what?!), since it's propagation 6 months ago it has grown a half inch taller as well as encrusting onto the rock which it lives on (a quarter size patch, neat to look at). It regularly sheds it's mucus coat a few times a month, which I have grown used to now... used to think it was dying! So, all in all, this specimen is on the right path. However, my very beautiful (albeit diminutive in stature) Neptheid seems to have stagnated in the growth department, it just isn't growing anymore. The polyps aren't either, though they are plump and healthy....have even witnessed the on-set of fission, only to see the tiny bud re-absorbed by the parent (points to lack of feeding/lighting, I s'pose). The Ricordea are growing, if you want to call it that...hehe. I know they are notoriously slow growers anyway, so it isn't a huge concern. <correct> So. Is the lighting scheme I have partly to blame? <well... perhaps a warmer spectrum would be better - one daylight lamp and the other no bluer than a 10K bulb. The other issue is lamp life... after 6-10 months, they are weakly effective/useful> I'm beginning to think that I should use a 6700K bulb and a 50/50 bulb, instead of the bluer scheme I have now. <true> That is really all I can think of, as the tank parameters (minus the temp) are acceptable, not to mention stable. <Hmmm... water temps don't bother me either here BTW re: growth... but I wonder if you have enough water flow? It is a far greater influence on coral growth> I'm guessing the PAR reading is not very high, as only 1 of the 4 bulb halves is 10,000K, the other three are all blue lights. I also fear the tank may be a bit too "clean", as in overfiltered. <not really... just underfed perhaps. One of the benefits of having a hearty fish load> I know corals, specifically softies and all the filter feeders, benefit from the presence of some organics in the water (absorption, right?). Could this be an issue? <very much so> It's not like the water is so clean it's devoid of organics completely, it just has a light load. <exactly> The smaller system does not permit me to experiment with organic concentration as freely as a larger system would, for obvious reasons, so I am not sure what to do. <agreed> Maybe I'll yank the PolyFilter for a bit......but the buildup of allelopathic compounds scares me a bit there. <don't reduce filtration aspects like this... instead simply increase food and feeding opportunities. You can even do it in a controlled manner with sodium nitrate solutions that can be added/dosed and tested for to provide a 5-10 ppm constant solution> On a side note, my lamps are a scant 2 inches or so from the surface of the water (yikes?), <very good... the closer the better> so I'm wondering if they are too low to permit proper penetration of the light, but that is just a guess. <on the contrary... with fluorescents, if you are 3" or higher it is a waste/compromise> I really do not have the credentials to even guess with confidence when it comes to lighting analysis! Anyway, sorry if I started rambling a bit toward the end guys. It happens :) Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated, and I thank you in advance for your time. This site has proved to be an invaluable resource....Peace. Dave Conners P.S.- Almost forgot my most important query. Could the purple frilly be releasing a lot of toxic compounds into my system? Since it seems to flourish while the others stagnate I was pondering this. <it could very well be an influence particularly in a smaller tank like this... but still may be manageable with your outstanding husbandry and water quality. Few worries here. Do increase water flow and feeding opportunities and give that at least 8 weeks for a chance to make an impact. kindly, Anthony> Advice for stocking a new 10 gal nano tank. Hello, << Blundell here this late night. >> I have kept freshwater fish for 10 years and African cichlids for a year, when I lived in New York. I recently moved to Sarasota Florida and decided to set up an aquarium here in my new apartment. I was initially was going to set up another freshwater system but decided to try a marine set-up. << Welcome to the dark side.. haaa haaa haaa haaa (in an evil voice) >> I know that a good starter tank would be a 40-55+ but in my current apartment there isn't much room for a large aquarium. So, after much research on many sites including saltwaterfish.com, nanoreef.com, and a few books, I decided to try a Nano Reef. I know I am asking for trouble with such a small set up on my first time out of the gate but I guess I like to inflict pain and suffering on myself =). So this is what I currently got set up. 10 Gallon Glass Aquarium 2 Aqua clear 20 (Formerly 201) Power heads 127 gph each max (too much movement?) 1 50w Ebo Jager Heater Aqua Clear 300 set up as a refugium (Some LS/LR in it now) no filter media in it 20lbs Arag- Alive Sand substrate (20 too much for 10gal?) 11 lbs of LR bought from LFS 20" Coralife Aqualight™ Deluxe Series - Single Linear Strip with 96 watt 50/50™ "Quad" Compact I am looking to put a few hermits, few snails, a Arrow Crab, a Cleaner Shrimp, and 1 (ONE) Fish preferable a clown or a Damsel, then slowly add beginner species type corals when tank is a bit older. << I would go with coral first, and your lighting will be the big issue. Also, I think I would pick either the arrow crab or the cleaner shrimp, but probably not both. >> Is this too much bioload for the 10 gallon set-up, which is actually 7 ? gallons after the LR/LS are in there. << It is isn't too much bioload, just maybe the wrong bioload. I would be careful on the inverts, and like I said I think the coral should come first to get the tank stabilized. One Anemonefish or other damsel would be fine. >> << Blundell >> Blenny Blunder? (Moving a Blenny Into A Nano Tank) My Lawnmower Blenny was doing very well in my 125 g until I "rescued" a black-tipped grouper from a LFS that was going out of business. After about a week of what seemed to be peaceful co-habitation between the current tank occupants, the blenny was obviously worse for the wear (no damage, but was so exhausted that I scooped him out of the corner of the tank without a fight). <Good move!> By the way, the tank parameters are: 1.021; amm=0; nitrate=0; nitrite=0; phos=undetectable; calcium=380; pH=8.2; temp=79-81; it's an All-Glass 125 FOWLR with 122# of LR and 150# of LS; lighting is 2 X 10,000 96W and 2 X 420 Actinic 96W. <Sounds good!> Anyway, I removed the blenny to my HOB refugium where he is eating and recovering nicely. Now the question (usually that's the reason for these notes, eh?)....I'm considering relocating the blenny from the refuge to my 12g nano...parameters the same as above with the noticeable exception of lighting and 1.023 salinity. The nano has 13# of LR and houses Xenia, Yellow Star Polyps, a couple of small colonies of Zoos, and 3 small hermits. The only occupant, fish-wise is a Yellow-head Jawfish, who has built a considerable underground village under the LR which is supported by PVC. As the blenny is not the world's smallest (about 3.5"), I wonder would he be comfortable, for about 5 months, in the nano considering the current, happily running environment. I'm adding a reef tank after Christmas of 90 gallon size to which he would later re-locate. I don't want the blenny or jaw (or corals for that matter) to suffer during this time period. I'd rather give the blenny to another hobbyist if we can anticipate problems in the nano. <Well, the main problem might be that the two inhabit similar "niches" (i.e.; towards the bottom). You also don't want to push the bioload to far in such a small tank. Fish, with their greedy appetites and copious metabolic waste products can tax water quality quickly. I'd say go for it, but be prepared to move someone if things get out of hand.> Thanks and sorry for the length of the note. Grunfeld in Detroit <No problem on the length. Your accurate descriptions help us do a better job of helping you! Good luck! Regards, Scott F> Questions about stocking a nano? Hi Crew! << Blundell here. >> You guys really do an awesome service. Many questions as have been in freshwater for years, and now --- the dreaded nano reef! 16 gal. bowfront 96 w. 50/50 CF 3" above surface 19 lbs. live Fiji pink 7.5 lbs. live Tonga Emperor 280 with BioWheel still in glass strip to prevent Emperor splash! open of front and back of strip 100w. titanium heater=78 deg F. consistent Next item will be skimmer. I've been thinking remora w/Rio800. Or, ditch the Emperor (too much splash!) and go with BakPak? If remora, remove BioWheel? << I like emperors, and I like BioWheels. >> Is it too much sand or too little? << Three or four inches of sand is perfect. >> How much LR and how quickly. << As much as you can afford, and I put it all in at once. >> I was thinking another 7-8 lbs. in about a week. 7-8 more two weeks after that. Too much light? << You can't have too much light. >> Currently I have the glass strip which I would like to remove but want to protect the light. Maybe I could remove it if I get rid of the Emperor. << I like glass. Simply for cleaning. It is much easier to clean than a bulb. But I don't really have strong preferences here. >> Should I use the light during cycling? << Yep. >> What kind of corals and critters and when. Cleaning crew in 4-6 weeks, then some fish (1-3) or corals? << Corals first. With a cleaning crew maybe. But don't put fish in yet. I'd let the tank go a while first. >> Thanks soooo much? ss << Blundell >> Eclipse: lighting a 2 gallon tank My daughter has the 2 gallon Explorer from Marineland. It houses 2 platies. A light does not come with the system and I was wondering if this is an important component to have? <Well, everything likes having light, but it doesn't really have to be there. As long as it gets enough ambient light from the room it should be okay. Your fish aren't solar powered, and you don't have any plants in there that require the added light for photosynthesis. In some Fish only tanks the lights are just to show off the color of the fish to the people watching. It's true that some of the beneficial bacteria needs the light, but it shouldn't be a problem.> The tank is situated in a place that receives moderate natural light. Will the lack of light harm the fish? <Nope.> If you do suggest purchasing a light please recommend one that is suitable for my system. <I would check the website for the Marineland company, they probably have a suggestion as to what would work.> Thank you for your help. Rob Harbour <No problem, glad I could help. -Magnus> Nano tank questions 8/10/04 Hi Crew, I am setting up a 15g Nano Reef to play with. It will be mostly zoos, cloves, mushrooms. My question is what type of sand bed? I have a DSB in my main reef but am not sure on the smaller tank. Would a DSB be not effective with such a small surface area? Should I just go with a 1" or less? Would that provide any nitrate reduction? Thanks! <Since you should have a very light fish load, I would suspect that your live rock and frequent partial water changes will handle nitrate reduction just fine. If you manage to cram a bunch of fish in there, a sand bed will be effective. You may want to go without the sand simply for the sake of the valuable space it will occupy! Best Regards. Adam> 15 Gallon Marine Tank Questions Hi.<Hi! Mike D here> I was directed to your site by my sister. Great site!<Garsh, thank you ma'am!**blushing** I was just wanting an opinion on my setup and how to correct a few things. Here goes: My setup is a 15 gallon tall marine aquarium. I have a sand bed of about an inch or less and about fifteen pounds of live rock I was using an eclipse hood and filtration. I switched the tank over to an uncovered system and put on a Magnum 350 canister yesterday. I also had a large MaxiJet powerhead going but think that was a bit too much current for my two Percula clown kids. Instead I put on a rather small powerhead and hope the Magnum will keep up the water movement enough. No skimmer is being used but I keep a close eye on Nitrate levels. The only inhabitants are my two false Perculas, a small skunk cleaner shrimp and 3-5 blue leg hermits.<That's a great number for the size> I have been having a heck of a time keeping the temp stable. It wants to climb to the low eighties and I can't afford a chiller. I have kept it a reasonable 79-80 usually with a large fan directed at the tank and lots of surface movement.<Is it sitting in front of a w window where it's being heated by sunlight or near a room heating duct?> A lighting system will be installed soon for keeping coral and I am worried about aggravating the problem further.<It will definitely raise it further> Please help! I also was wondering if there is such a thing as too big a filter on a tank and too much water movement.<Yes and no. You can't over-filter a tank, but you CAN have too much current for slow moving species, such as Clownfish, so it sounds like you've dome the right thing that way. A word of caution though, for if you recently did the filter change, the tank may well cycle again, so be observant> Thank you for sharing your experience with others!<That's what the whole aquarium/internet thing is all about> Angie Freeman Springfield, Mo. How do I top off water in my Nano Reef? Hi Crew, << Hi there >> I have a 10 gallon saltwater tank. I replace 1 gallon every week. Since the weather has heated up the tank temperature started climbing into the low 80's so I got a small fan which keeps it around 78. But now I get a lot of evaporation, as much as a gallon a week. So I need to add a gallon of new unsalted water. << Yep, this is very common, just keep adding freshwater (not from the tap, but dechlorinated of course) as needed to keep the tank level filled. >> Do I still need to remove a gallon and replace it since evaporation does not remove any pollutants? << Yes this top off water doesn't count towards the water changes. A 10 gal is very easy for water changes, considering one gallon of freshly mixed salt water is a 10% change. Just be sure to slowly add the new water, make it is well mixed with the correct temperature before hand. >> << Blundell >> Nano-Lighting Just Right A question about lighting. <Not a
problem. Ryan with you today> I have had this 20 gal long
reef running for about 10 years. I originally set it up with three NO
fluorescents and had little problems keeping most coral. I have
recently changed light to one PC fluorescent and two NO bulbs. The CP
is half actinic and half 10000K. One NO bulb is actinic and the other
is 10000K. My question is do you think that this is too much lighting
or not the right spectrum for a shallow tank? <I would only run one
actinic, from the PC. The other NO may be more beneficial as
20000k, creating a more complete look.> My live stock includes
mushrooms, leather coral, xenia, Briareum, yellow polyps and an open
brain. My setup includes about 30 lbs of rock, less than one inch of
sand, a skimmer and power heads. The reason I ask is that my mushrooms
are not open as much as they use to be and the Briareum has stopped
growing. <I'd switch the bulb, and see if things improve.>
Everything else seems to be fine. I have had all of these corals for at
least 8 years. Any help would be appreciated. PS, This is a question
from one of Anthony's coworkers form the Elmer's days. <Ah!
Anthony's out at LMAS, or I'm quite sure he'd respond
personally. I shall send along your good wishes, Ryan>
Thanks, TC Can I fit a refugium on my 29 gal? Hello- I could not find an answer to this question in my archive search, so I would appreciate any thoughts. I have a 29 gal reef setup ( I know, bigger is better, but I live in a second floor apartment and my lease limits the amount of weight I can place in a given floor area) << I have the same size tank. >> with approx. 32 lbs. quality live rock. I have a bed of about 1 inch aragonite that was seeded with 7lbs of GARF grunge when the tank was set up. The system has a Bak-Pak Reef skimmer, a whisper 30 power filter for mechanical filtration, a 900 maxi-jet powerhead for additional water movement, and an appropriate heater. Lighting is a Current Orbit w/ 2 x 65 PC fluorescent ( actinic blue and daylight combo) + moonlight. << Good for FOWLR, but not that much light for a reef tank. >> The light sits up off the tank but the tank surface is covered with a glass canopy( I have 3 cats so this is a necessity or the aquarium would be cat hair city). I have read a lot about refugiums, and find myself interested in one from the point of view of more system stability. I have looked at the Aquafuge 12". The problem is the space limitation. Between the skimmer w/ preskimmer box, powerhead, heater, and mechanical filter, there is only about 10 inches left on the back. I considered placing a refugium on the side, but am afraid of the effect of removing the canopy on water quality ( cat hair slick--or even cat scuba from my boldest) My reading suggests so far that for a small system it is better to keep the mechanical filtration and forego the refugium. << I have this exact same debate with my tank. >> What are your thoughts? Is there any way to link any of the system components to make a refugium possible? << Definitely. I would consider using an overflow box to a refugium, and then adding your mechanical filtration (if you think you need it) to the refugium tank. Or here is another idea I like to use on my small aquariums. I have a powerhead in my tank pumping to my refugium, and my refugium is ABOVE my tank. Then, the water just runs from the refugium down a hose to my main tank. It takes up no space in on the back of the main tank. >> The tank is glass and I am not a mechanic so drilling , etc. seems a little much for me-but I might be willing to try a not-too -difficult DIY project. BTW, the system hasn't been set up that long and is almost finished cycling. Right now I have some feather dusters, assorted other worms, some polyp corals( mushrooms, zooxanthellae, etc.), hermits, snails, Caulerpa algae, and some other micro-critters of undetermined type-most of these came along with the live rock. .Everyone seems happy: corals, dusters, etc. are growing rapidly. I do a 10-15% water change and sand-bed stir weekly( I use reef crystals and supplement with 5 ml.s. Combisan once/week)-calcium is 480 ppm, alkalinity 4.8 meq/L, specific gravity at 1.024, there is still a trace of nitrate and ammonia.. Plans include a pair Percula clowns, a firefish, a yellow watchman goby, maybe some cleaner shrimp, more polyp/soft corals, and maybe a BTA if all goes well and I have success with the fish/corals. Four is probably the upper limit I will go on fish , since I don't want to crowd them. I'd appreciate any help/comments on 1) whether a refugium is really necessary and 2) since I would like one--is there anyway to rearrange things to accommodate it. . Thanks! << Try looking at other tanks of that size, to see what your friends have done, and what works for them. >> Denise << Blundell >> Chillin' Out (Is a Chiller Necessary for a Small Tank?) Hi There! <Scott F. here with you tonight.> Do I really need a chiller for a small 24" reef tank in my bedroom that very rarely gets to 24 degrees C? Some fishy people say I do. Others don't. I'm really confused about everything though now! <Confused? About something in the marine hobby? Really? hah! hah! Just kidding. Seriously, unless you have a significant heat problem you could probably do a real good job by using a quality fan directly over the water surface. A chiller may only be necessary in instances where your tank reaches high temperatures for sustained periods of time.> Anyway, do I need one. They're pretty expensive though and if I did need one could I do a DIY one with a fridge compressor and run the filaments through the tank? That is if even need one!! Thanks for your time anyway. Bye, Ben <Well, Ben, quite honestly, as above, I only feel a chiller is necessary if you experience a heat problem. Otherwise, save your money for fun stuff like salt mix, and activated carbon. Good luck. Regards, Scott F.> Live Rock And Tank Mates hey this is Miles again. <Hi Miles, MacL here tonight. Sorry for my delay I had to get rid of a nasty bug.> I know you got my other e-mail on the coral beauty tankmate. <I did get it. I decided to answer them together because adding the live rock makes a huge difference.> I was wondering I have a 30 gallon aquarium of course. and have 30 pounds of live rock. I am trying to make it a reef tank without the coral. IN your opinion about how many pounds of live rock do I need in the 30 gallon system with a coral beauty. <I think the 30 gallons would work but personally I prefer one and a half pounds per gallon. The thing I have mostly noticed is that it depends on how it "fits" within the tank as well. You don't want to have the tank totally filled with live rock, you'll need room for the fish to swim. Mow about fish compatibility with your coral beauty I would suggest going with some of the small gobies. Perhaps some of the blennies and then some shrimps. I personally love the fire shrimps. I think you could be very happy with that tank, a few fish and some invertebrates.> thanks for your help <Good luck, MacL> How Much Light do I Need for a 30 gal? Hello WWM Crew, << Blundell again. >> In response to your advice I have been looking at a lighting upgrades for my 30- gallon reef tank. I was looking at a 36" setup that could hold 8 HO output T-5 bulbs. << Sounds good. I like that. >> This would give me 312 watts total but the cost is very steep (474.99)and the hood comes without the bulbs. Whereas there is another hood that holds two 96 watt bulbs (192watts) for about half that price and comes with the bulbs. << This is okay for most soft corals, but it is pushing it for most stony corals. >> Could you advise me as to what the best product are and where I could get them? Also, as I am not the richest person just having graduated from college, what the best deal would be for my money? << The best deal is probably HO T-5's. I like halides much more, but the bulb cost and replacement costs are a problem. >> I understand that this is a difficult question to answer but I am hoping from your vaster knowledge I can get an answer. Originally I was not supposed to end up keeping the tank, as it was a project for my aquatic biology class. Now though, as I ended up not selling everything, I would like to provide the best possible care I can for my reef. << I would also recommend looking at other similar sized aquariums. See what you like, and what you want to have. >> Thank you Blundell for answering my last question, I would appreciate any help the Crew can provide on my problem. Regards Jess << Blundell >> Cinnamon Clown in Nano Cube> Hi Guys!, <Hi Jake, MacL here tonight to help> I was just wondering. I have this 1 1/2 inch cinnamon clown and a coral banded shrimp in my 55 gallon tank. I am taking it down because I'm setting up a 120 gallon FOWLR tank and I want to start a small (very small) reef also. I was wanting to buy a Nano-cube because it's the easiest way. <There are several sizes of nano cubes, so this makes a difference.> Would the clown be small enough for the cube or not. <If the clown is the only animal in the cube it would probably be okay. When you think of stocking remember the largest size your fish will attain.> Also, on a different note, I know clowns can survive fine without a host anemone, but I think it would be cool to see it in it's anemone. If I put an anemone in there, would it host the clown or not. <It truly depends on the individual fish and the type of anemone. Your problems are going to come in making sure the anemone doesn't over load the tank with waste and keeping it happy and healthy by meeting its demanding lighting requirement.> Thanks for your help, Jake Clown in nano follow Mac, <Hi Jake!> Sorry I didn't clarify...I meant THE nano cube, the 12g cube shaped nano-reefs made by JBJ. I think an anemone would be alright as they come with power compacts and wet-dry filter system, nice water flow, etc. It would be the only fish, however a coral banded shrimp would be in there too. <Whew I feel much more confident for you in that case. You are meeting the anemone's requirements. yes I think one clown in there would be good. Good luck Jake, MacL> Jake Circulation in a Nano Hello there! <Hi! Ryan Bowen with you> Thanks for such a wonderful site. <Glad you enjoy it> I have a 10 gallon eclipse tank that has been running for about six months. I am running the existing carbon filter and 32 oz. water changes about every 2-3 days. <Great> I have 1 (2-3 inch) mandarin goby (I've had him since the tank cycled, 1st fish), a small serpent star, 3 hermit crabs, a couple of cone-shaped snails, a bubblebee snail a recently added large featherduster, 5 small low light soft corals, 7-8 pounds of live rock, sand substrate, using Oceanic sea salt mix and keeping salinity/specific gravity around 1.025. I am have real trouble getting rid of a dark red filamentous algae, help? <Reduce nutrients, increase circulation> I have a feeling that this and some problems to come are due to a lack of circulation. Do you think that this could be the problem? What type of circulation device would you recommend for a tank this small? <Small, hang over the back closed loop would work well. See something like this: http://www.melevsreef.com/how_to_build.html. Any advice would be great. Thanks, Ryan Sloan <No problems! Good luck Ryan, Ryan> That Final Fish! I currently have a Lawnmover Blenny and a Firefish Goby in my 20 gallon reef tank with corals, crabs and snails. I was thinking of getting a small Percula Clown but what fish would you recommend as a fourth and final one? Something that is colorful and small would be great. Thanks <I'd consider either a Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto) or some other type of small, substrate-dwelling goby. Many to chose from! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> - Nano Setup - Hi there!!! I am setting up a new 10 gallon AGA nano reef tank. Just needed some advice from you guys first before I jump into it. So far, I have bought a 15 pound Fiji live rock. This rock is one big piece right in the center of the tank. Will this be enough live rock filtration for my tank??? <That is a good amount of rock, yes.> I am planning to go DSB for the substrate as well. <In a ten gallon tank, a truly deep sand bed will leave you with little water.> My main goal is to get rid of nitrates so that algae problems won't appear when I start to turn on the lights. <I'd skip the deep sand bed - shoot for something less than two inches of sand, and rely on regular water changes to keep the nitrates in line.> I was planning to do 3 inch of CaribSea's Aragamax sugar sized reef sand (particle size .2 to 1.2 mm). <Three inches is in fact in the problem zone - for a deep sand bed you need four or more inches. Otherwise two inches or less.> However, if I did 3 inch for substrate, my rock would be very close to the surface of the water. <Another reason to skip the DSB concept in this tank.> What if I went 2 inches of sand, will that be an efficient DSB as to removing nitrates? <It would not qualify as a "deep" sand bed.> On the bag, it claims that this sand can still denitrify at 1 inch. Is this true??? <Any substrate will provide some denitrification.> I am not a big fan of bare bottom tanks. For the filtration, I will have an Aqua C remora HOT as the main filter. <You will likely need some other circulation in the tank - a powerhead to augment the skimmer.> No power filters will be run....only on occasions where carbon is needed, then I will add a hang on power filter for a couple of days/weeks. My lighting for this tank will be a Current USA Orbit 2 x 40w (dual daylight 10k and 67k / dual actinic 460nm and 420nm). What you think about this lighting for a small tank??? Planning on keeping 1 rose bulb anemone, clown fish, and maybe later down the road, some acroporas. <Don't think this lighting will be enough for the anemone and/or Acropora... if you want to keep an anemone and a clownfish, you should really consider something with more water volume - at least a 40 gallon tank.> This should be enough lighting for Acros and anemone right??? <No.> So, am I missing anything or do you think I am on the right track. <Well... you are going in the right direction, but I do think you may be expecting too much out of a tank so small. The anemone and fish will pollute themselves out of existence. The lighting will not be sufficient for Acropora. There are other choices you can make for this tank that will fare much better.> Bye <Cheers, J -- > Filtration for small (20 Gallon) fish only tank 6/2/04 I have a 20 gallon fish only with live rock tank in the master bedroom. I've had a Biolife internal wet dry filter in it for about 10 years. I've never had any complaints, but that is probably more to do with the light bio load (1 royal Gramma, 1 pygmy angel) than with the Biolife. <agreed> Plus new water always comes from my 400 gallon reef. Regardless, the Biolife seems to have bought the farm and I am looking for a replacement. I want to keep the footprint and the maintenance to a minimum. What kind of filtration would you suggest? <live rock alone is sufficient for light bio-loads. A good old fashioned sponge filter (see those nifty "Hydro-sponges) is quite excellent and easily hidden if you need more support> Any particular brand/model that could fit easily into a 20 gallon? Thanks for your thoughts, Larry <best regards, Anthony> "... everybody's got one." 5/28/04 Bob and Tony have some great books and you guys have a great website, but you give some bad advice on small tanks. <aquarists successfully enjoy the hobby from many different perspectives> My mom always said, keep it simple stupid and many times YOU GUYS are making things too difficult and complicated, especially for people doing this as a "hobby." <tell me more Nostradamus...> For instance, about 6 months ago a friend of mine wanted to try Marine fish so I set her up a 29-Gallon Fish-Only-Tank (FOT). A 29 gallon tank is popular because you can get them cheap at PetSmart. <there is a saying, "Good things are seldom cheap, and cheap things are seldom good."> Tank, Hood and lights and a very nice iron stand for $90.00. Throw in a 15 pound bag of FL crushed coral ($15.00), Salt, Hydrometer, Red Sea Test kit, two Penguin 170's (bought online for $35.00), a combination of dead rock and a $20.00 nice piece of fake coral (bought online). PetSmart has these big black roots (for the fish to swim through the roots) that are over 15 inches tall and 8 inches wide (so they take up a lot of the tank) that look great in a Marine FOT for 20 bucks! I had her out the door for ~$200.00 which ain't bad for all that. <you should do government contracts <G>> I put the lighting on a 6 pm-9 pm timer when she is normally home at night to keep algae down. I ran the 170's and cycled them on my tanks for two weeks. <yes... helpful/very good> I crammed one liter of Matrix and 1/2 a liter of bio-rings in the 170's for extra bio-filtration which meant her tank cycled instantly. I stocked it with a two Blue Chromis, a Candy Hogfish, a pair of tank raised True Perc's and a big Long-Nosed Hawk as her marquee fish (she already loved him and had me buy him for my tanks several months earlier). All the fish came from my 3 tanks, a 29 Gallon FOT, a 40 Gallon Reef and a 10 Gallon QT tank. I tossed in around 10 hermits for luck, lol. I kept it simple and now she has a 29-Gallon FOT that is appropriately stocked with 5 very colorful, very hardy fish that do not get large and should not outgrow the tank. <if these fish were all stocked within the first month, I would disagree with "appropriately" stocked... slower would be better advice for most beginners, regardless of the seeded filters or not> As long as she watches the temps, PH, feeds sparingly and gravel siphons the tank once a month as part of a 5% water change (I made her do this and showed her how easy it is) <I'd recommend water changes greater than %5 rather than letting livestock live in the accumulating balance of their own dissolved wastes> and does a heavy gravel siphoning every 6-12 months (with only 15 pounds of FL crushed coral the gravel siphoning is easy) <agreed... very important with coarse substrates> if Nitrates get to high she will be fine. <Huh?> Keep it simple and if she gets ick I gave her Mardel Coppersafe and told her to follow the instructions if I am not around to help and to treat the whole system. <the crushed coral will suck this up like a sponge... copper only in bare bottomed tanks please> Do you think she will be successful? <perhaps> Is this good advice? <not for the masses... success will be harder to replicate than safer/more conservative recommendations. These are living creatures after all... why rush things or aspire for "cheap" when it the "products" of our hobby are living organisms?> Do you approve? <its not for me to say/approve... just share my opinion as you have done> I know, you would have had her spend well over $500.00 (she does not have) on a 40+ gallon tank with a wet-dry and live sand and live rock, yada, yada, yada <you are mistaken> and your stupid request QT tank which she certainly does not need, <OK... at this point, you really need to start taking your medication again> but see, that ain't keeping it simple! She is a busy girl, college, work and taking care of me, lol. <she has my deepest sympathies and regards> I will keep you apprised of her successes or failures, <we'll check the mailbox daily in wait> but as far as I am concerned she is on the path of being a successful Marine fish "hobbyist" and only spent $200.00 to get there! Nathan <I wish you luck in life... clearer vision... effective therapy... and cold beers. Anthony> Holding on a thread...HELP 5/26/04 Hello there!!! I hope you guys can help me on some issues that I have with my mini reef tank (10 gallon). <Me too!> In the tank, I have a Torch Coral, a Frogspawn Coral, a Ricordea mushroom, a button polyp colony, 2 feather dusters, 1 cleaner shrimp, 1 Firefish goby, 4 Nerites snails and 3 Astrea snails. <Sounds like a good bit for 10 gallons, but not ridiculous.> For the substrate, I have 1 inch of fine crushed coral and 20 lbs of live rock. I have a Penguin Bio Wheel 125 HOB filter for chemical filtration and a Berlin Airlift 60 as my skimmer (rated for 60 gallons). <The Bio Wheel is probably not helping you much (except for some water movement). I would consider removing it (or at least the wheel). Also, 1" of substrate, unless it is sugar fine, is probably not contributing much biological filtration. Do consider a finer substrate or aggressively vacuuming the substrate you have to avoid detritus build up. When it comes to substrates, think very fine (sugar fine/oolitic) or very coarse (3-5mm and up) sizes in between do not support much life.> My water parameters are as follow: PH - 8.2 - 8.3, Ammonia - 0, Nitrite - 0, Nitrate - around 10ppm, calcium - around 390-410, KH - 10, Salinity - 1.24 to 1.25, and temp - 81 (all test done with Salifert and refractometer). <All sounds OK, but I hope the salinity is 1.024-1.025! Your BioWheel is probably contributing to your nitrates.> Oh, and my tank has been up and running for almost a year now. My issue has been with algae and Cyanobacteria. I recently had a very very little outbreak of red slime algae (cyano, actually thought it was coralline algae growing) but most of it was consumed by my snails and I also think with the help of a chemical called "Chem-Clean" by Boyd Enterprises (used it only once). However, I am still battling turf algae (hair algae?) growing on my live rocks. <Based on your substrate and the nitrate accumulation from the bio-wheel, I would guess that you have some easily rectified nutrient accumulation. I always warn against chemical solutions to these kind of problems... It is always best to solve it at the source, in this case the nutrients.> I have done everything that you guys have mentioned on WWM. I understand that nutrients, phosphate, and lights are the main factor for algae growth. However, I feel that I have done almost everything to my best but still having problems. I am on the brink of giving up this hobby but I have spent so much and I don't want to just give up. Although, It is very discouraging when something is worked at with so much dedication yet, the results are still ugly. Here is what I do: I feed very sparingly to only ONE fish and the cleaner shrimp (once a day or even maybe once every other day), lights are on for 10 hours a day (spectrums are 7100k white, and 12000k blue, fairly new lights), skimmer on 24/7 (dark skimmate produced), 10% to even 20% water changes TWO times WEEKLY on a consistent basis with RO/DI water using IO salt, adequate water flow (2 Rio 400 pumps causing wave like action and havoc in the tank with no dead spots), I suck out detritus with a turkey baster as soon as I see them on the floor or floating around, I change the filter cartridge on the penguin filter every 3-4 weeks as recommended, every night I wipe down the salt splash on the covering of my PC lights, I add top off water every night with RO/DI water buffered with Kent super buffer DKH to 10kh to my tank, and my calcium levels are maintained with SeaChem's Reef Complete (only additive added to tank). <Filters like your Biowheel should be cleaned every 3-4 days rather than every 3-4 weeks. In this case, I would either eliminate it or remove all of the filter cartridges/BioWheel and use it only for current or occasional activated carbon. These kinds of filters are notorious sources of nitrate, especially when infrequently cleaned.> I just don't get it. I researched all over the internet and I see some nice reef tanks that are setup without any algae problems whatsoever (nice clear crisp water, clean glass and nice coralline algae growth instead of nuisance algae like mines). Every time I look at those tanks on the web, I tend to go straight to their water parameters and maintenance routines and ponder to myself, what are they doing that I am not. Furthermore, all of their tanks are zero in nitrates. <Do any of them use bio wheels? I would bet not. Your maintenance routine is amazing (other than the bio wheel). The problem is that algae require only trace amounts of phosphate and nitrate to grow, and the stuff trapped in the bio wheel and your sand are supplying plenty.> I have done so much but still have nitrates and I believe that I am doing the same exact maintenance as they are. Maybe if I can get my nitrates down, then my algae will go away (this is the only source of algae growth I can think of). At first, algae wasn't a big deal to me, but now, it is because I see little colonies of turf algae growing on one of the branches of my frogspawn coral. Soon it will overtake this coral and I will give up this hobby because I have tried everything there is and now I am bummed out. I want to enjoy looking at my tank more rather than working on it. Please help me with my algae woes and if you have any tips, please let me in on it. <I think you can tell that I am anti-BioWheel! I would also suggest that your replace your sand with either 3" minimum of very fine grained sand, 1/2" or less of coarse crushed coral or eliminate sand all together. If you choose to go bare bottom or with coarse substrate, you should be able to remove lots of detritus with your water changes. Please hang in there! It may take a couple of months to turn things around, but with your aggressive water change schedule and eliminating sources of nitrate, you will eventually win. Best Regards. Adam> Heat a Nano? >Hi. >>Hello. Going to go ahead and post this, but will ask everyone once again to *please* use proper punctuation when sending messages to save us from retyping. >I have a 12 gallon nano cube and I was wondering if you think I would need a heater for it. >>Yes, even if not so much to warm it as to keep the temperature stable. About 2-3 watts/gallon is the general rule of thumb. >Also I have a bubble tip anemone and was wondering if you put two of them together if it will work out or will they fight. >>Two BTAs? Not a problem, but I wouldn't try to stuff 'em into that nano. >Also I was wondering if you could put another type of anemone in the same tank as the bubble tip anemone. thanks Erik >>I would not do this. Marina Set up and Stocking a Via Aqua AR-380 Hi, well I saw it at the pet store set up for salt. Its a 11 gal tank with a drip filter in the top. How should I proceed from here to be successful and responsible to the life I house? <I would just keep a small clownfish or two along with a shrimp and a few snails and hermits. Also I would keep about 10lbs of LR...or more if you choose and make sure you do weekly water changes of about 2 gallons or so. Good luck, IanB> Right now it has sand and a hermit crab rode in on the latest purchase of a 1.6 lb live rock. It has been running a week. Thanks, LB Avoiding "Nano-No-No's!" (Maintaining/Stocking A
Small Tank) Hi WetWeb, <Hey there Scott F. at your service
today!> First of all, your site is awesome. I've learned so much
that's helpful from you in the last two months. That's when I
got a second-hand 16-gallon tank with about 20 lbs of live rock and
live sand. The lighting is power compact, 40 watt, 10,000k. No skimmer.
I've been doing 10 percent water changes weekly, though have been
told recently to up that to about 30 percent (yes?). <I am a water
change fanatic (at least according to my friends), but even I only do
10% a week. Although there is nothing wrong with establishing a good
water change routine, you don't want to overburden yourself or
traumatize the life forms with constant large water changes. I like 2
5% changes a week> I've been adding livestock very slowly and
right now have a Dottyback, a clam, mushrooms, polyp fragments, a
leather, a couple hermit crabs, etc. Here are my questions. First,
should I get a skimmer? I'm been reading your site, and am
considering an Aqua-c, but am worried that it will be too powerful for
my tank in terms of water flow, and also taking nutrients out. Should I
go ahead and get one and just run it part-time, consider something
else, or keep on with the water changes only? I've read all of your
skimmer responses have ended up a bit confused about this. <I would
not hesitate to add a skimmer. You run little risk of depleting trace
elements or desired compounds from the water. With continuous
replenishment from our dedicated water change schedule, you probably
won't even need to use the "additives" that everyone
loves to buy! A protein skimmer is an absolute must, IMO> Next, is
my lighting ok for my little clam, and in general, for getting other
soft corals like xenia and bubble coral? <Marginal for the clam, but
okay for some of these less-demanding (from a light standpoint) coral.
I would not mix Xenia and Bubble Coral in a small water volume like
this, myself though> My LFS said xenia needed metal halide lighting,
but on a site, someone keeping xenia was doing fine with a power
compact. <PC is fine for Xenia, trust me> I don't think I can
spring for metal halide lighting, but if my lighting is insufficient,
should I get more powerful bulbs? <Well, when you reach the point
were you are considering a $300 lighting system for a $100 tank setup,
it's time to shop for a larger tank! You've been
"infected" by the hobby at that point, and the only cure is
to move up! LOL> I'd like to get a couple small shrimp, but am
also concerned about changes in my salinity. I try to keep things
around 1.023 and 1.024, (is this right?) and was pretty successful.
Then I read I should take the cover off my tank to improve my lighting,
but evaporation is now more of a problem and the salinity goes up more
than I'd like. <Yep, in a small ("nano") tank like
yours, the difficulties of maintaining stability are magnified.
It's not impossible by any stretch, it's just that things can
happen pretty quickly in a small volume of water. You have to remain
especially vigilant to water quality and evaporation in such a
system.> Is there anything I can do about this? <Top off the
system daily to maintain stability. Some people even design and build
automated top off systems for their tanks. These things scare the hell
out of me, but I envy them for not having to constantly reach for a
pitcher of water for top off > Also is this the right salinity for a
shrimp? And if so, what kind of shrimp do you suggest for my tank size
etc. (Someone suggested cleaner shrimp)? <Your specific gravity is
fine for shrimp. I'd go with one of the many small
"cleaner" varieties available. Do a little research on the
WWM site for candidates, or get a copy of Bob and Anthony's
"Reef Invertebrates" book for a thorough treatment on these
cool creatures!> Also, for fish, I plan to add just one or two more.
I'd like a mandarin, but again have gotten conflicting info. At one
LFS, I was told it would do fine, even with a Dottyback, at the other,
I was told a mandarin would starve because the Dottyback would get all
of its food. Can I get a mandarin? <I would avoid this fish for a
variety of reasons, not the least of which is that the fish can be
difficult to feed, particularly in a newly established system. Plus,
you don't want to over tax a small tank with too much bioload. How
about a small, colorful goby or blenny? Plenty of cool ones to choose
from> Also, after that, if I have room, I'd like to possibly get
a small clown or a Chromis. Would it or the clown have territory issues
with the Dottyback? <Please refrain from adding more fishes after
the goby. Understanding the limits on small tanks is part of the
challenge and art of keeping them. In fact, even in 300 gallon tanks
you need this wired. You need to have the discipline of when to say
when with this hobby, but this is imperative with small tanks like
yours. Enjoy the animals that you've already assembled at that
point, and consider a larger tank when you want to expand. The patience
will serve you well, trust me.> Would either stay small enough for
my tank? <Nope. See my rant above!> Last question (for now),
someone locally is breaking down is 100 gallon reef tank and I can
possibly pick up some livestock, but the tank has been a bit neglected.
Should I go ahead? What should I keep an eye out for? <Well, much to
review, including the quality an condition of the animals and
equipment. Obviously, as mentioned above, you need to have the room for
the animals, and the ability to maintain the ones that are available.
It can be a good deal, but I'd do some homework first to see if
what you would get is viable, within your means to keep, and healthy.
Sometimes, the reason why these systems are available is because the
guy selling them made bad equipment/livestock choices, and is now
paying the price. Don't take on someone else's burden, if this
is the case...> Thanks so much for your help. <My pleasure! Good
luck! Regards, Scott F> Cramo another nano 4/28/04 Hi Anthony! Thanks so much for all the help. <always welcome> I went to our LFS last weekend and they didn't have any button polyps and mushrooms. Majority I found were hammer and anchor corals, bubble corals, and flowerpot corals. <all but the last one are hardy... can be> I didn't buy anything yet. I might be considering the hammer coral, as flowerpots are not easy to maintain, bubbles get too big, <all of the Euphyllias get to big> as also my tank is only a 10 gallon nano-tank. <Yikes! None of the above please my friend. You need species that you can prune easily in such a small tank> My tank is a 10 gallon, with 3 inch sand bed, around 7 to 10 pounds of live rock, with 1 powerhead and a skimmer which I don't know if its working (I'm doing 20% water change 2x a week, don't know if this is the reason). <the skimmer is not working for other reasons, likely design flaw. A SeaClone or a Prism?> The live rocks have many feather dusters, and the main rock has 3 green long strings sticking out, with the tips looking like 2 leaves joined together. My fishes (2 false Percs and 1 black Sumatra saddleback - the sebae succumbed to the ich) are currently in my QT tank, on their 3rd week. They won the ich bout, but I'm still observing. I haven't seen them fighting, maybe because they are still juveniles, especially the saddleback). Thanks again ! Romel <for long-term success in a non-reef (how I dread these), please do limit yourself to one species or only one similar and compatible genera. Too many people simply watch frags kill and overgrow each other when poorly mixed in small tanks. Make the tank a theme or biotope my friend and you will enjoy far greater success. Anthony> Nano selections 4/28/04 Hi Anthony! Thanks for the expert advice. <always welcome :) > I was planning to buy a small hammer coral to place in the tank to be the only coral inhabitant, but I'll follow your advice not to buy them. <Hmmm... if it will be the only coral, and you get the phaceloid/branching form and not the wall form, then you may be able to keep it after all. It would kill other corals attempted in such a small tank... but yet could be trimmed easily if branching> Those were the only corals I saw available from different LFS here in the Philippines, and I haven't seen button polyps, which was my 1st choice. A lot of anemones here, but as they are very hard to take care, and I have a nano, I didn't consider. <very wise my friend> I spoke too soon about the skimmer. It did perform its job, was collecting foam with yellow-brown gunk. <good to hear... do try to adjust it to produce dark coffee colored skimmate. If its too light like tea colored, then the air or water flow is up a little bit too high> I'll wait for the clowns to get well. I've completed their malachite green treatment, but I think I may have stressed out the 2 false Percs, as they are not eating. They have no visible specs or mucous. The saddleback is eating a lot. I'm offering them TetraMin flake food, very small pieces of shrimp and squid. Thanks again for all your help! Romel <wishing you the best. Anthony> Beginning with a nano reef (4/22/04) Hi there, <Michael here, listening Blue Man Group - 'Boston'> I'm new to the world of saltwater aquariums, and I'm realizing that before I took on my new hobby I should have done a lot more research. <You've definitely found the right site for information - I've learned more here than almost anywhere else> Having said that, I'm sorry if this is a long e-mail! <Not a problem, helped a lot of people into this hobby> I recently decided to make a go of caring for a saltwater aquarium, which I'm worried may have been a mistake, as I did not do enough research before hand. I purchased a 12-gallon Nano Cube from Pacific Reef in Anaheim. <Nano reefs aren't the best beginner tanks, that's for sure. In such a small water volume it is hard to keep on top of parameters, especially without experience> The people were very knowledgeable and friendly and helped me step by step with the setup and cycling of the aquarium. I have kept a close watch on the water (salinity, pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate); checking it weekly to ensure my tank's survival. <Good> However, after reading your website I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed and a little concerned about my tank. I feel like I may have made a mistake in trusting what the fish store has told me without doing my own research on the matter. <A second opinion is invaluable, no matter what the subject> In order, this is what has been added to my aquarium (which has 8-9 pounds of live rock and two inches of live sand) over the past few months: 1) a Nassarius snail and a queen conch snail; <That queen conch can get 12" +, look into finding it a new home> 2) a Christmas tree rock, a daisy coral, a Cladiella leather coral, and a hermit crab; 3) two sexy shrimp; 4) a feather duster, a hammer fragment and an unidentified fragment (looks like an anemone but has a hard base, long lavender tentacles with white tips, small); 5) a button polyp and a false Percula clown; 6) a turbo snail, a margarita snail, and a rose anemone. <I would not keep anemones and corals together in such a small body of water. Cnidarians can and will often kill each other in small bodies of water, especially if they're touching. Also, how long has your tank been set up?> After reading all that was said on your site (which is wonderful, by the way) <Thanks, others have put in infinitely more than myself> I get the feeling that smaller tanks are harder to take care of. <more difficult to keep the parameters in check, but not all that hard with a bit of experience, don't give up!> I am also concerned because I'm not sure if I should have added the rose anemone - will it take over my tank or hurt any of the corals and/or the other animals in the tank? <Quite possibly, especially if it starts dividing. I personally wouldn't keep anemones with corals in a tank that size> I know you have answered questions similar to mine, but I was worried that some of the things in my tank may be incompatible with each other although, I may have misread some of your comments. I feel so overwhelmed. It was foolish of me to spend so much time, energy, and money on something I feel I know so little about. <Well, you're trying to change that and your animals are still alive, so don't beat yourself up> I've been being cautious, believe it or not, and I've been asking a lot of questions before I buy anything. <Definitely a good thing, you can never know too much> I have a good relationship with the people at Pacific Reef and their store has the best-looking live stock of any of the tropical fish stores I have visited (which have been many, recently). I just want to know that I'll be able to take care of my livestock before adding anything else. <Be careful about that anemone, and find a new home for your conch when it gets too big> Thanks for all of your help! <No problem> You are all amazing!!! <You're too kind - M. Maddox> Nano Lighting Hello!!<Hi! Ryan here> I have a quick question regarding lights. <Quick eh?> I have a 11 gallon via aqua tank: Dimensions are 17 inches tall x 15 inches long x 10 inches wide. I am using the lights that came with it (18 watts x 2, one is 7100k white and the other is 12000k blue). Are my lights in the good spectrum range. <Yes, very run of the mill.> Are they sufficient for LPS stony corals and soft corals. <In 11 gallons, I would do a species specific tank. But yes, the lower light LPS/softies will be ok. If you plan on doing more that one or two corals, add a sump and skimmer.> Are my Kelvin ratings good for such corals?? <Yes, be fine> I am not going for SPS corals. <Good decision> I have no idea how Kelvin ratings and watt ratings work, if you can shed some light on this. I will be grateful. <Just couldn't avoid that pun, huh? I understand. Here you are: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/fixtures.htm > Thanks Pushing the Envelope Hello all! <Hello! Ryan with you> I hope life is treating you very well and you have a full belly. lol ;) Well, I have a few questions, but first I have to show you a picture of my new flower. Love and adoration! <Superb!> Okay on to the business...<I guess life is never just pretty pictures, huh?> I have setup an 11 gallon ViaAqua (nice little tank) for an upcoming show. <Cool> It has live sand, cured rock (100%), creatures, and a hang on the back refugium. In another week or so I want to get some fish. This is only a temporary nano tank and I will most likely return or give away the fish. <OK> Here's the thing, I plan on buying some 1 inch long hippo tang(s), a Desjardinii tang, and a one or two tiny baby box fish (yellow w/ black spots, not that that helps). What would I feed these guys? <The tangs will require live macro algae for proper development at this stage, as well as some high quality flake soaked in Selcon. The Boxfish will require foods similar to that of the puffer family.> Do they need different food since they are juveniles or live food? <Just more frequent light feedings...smaller fish need to be fed more often> I have these foods available: Spirulina, Cyclop-eeze, pellet, BioPlankton, Formula one brine shrimp, formula one red food (ha! forgot the name), and blood worms. I can also make baby brine. <All good, just add some live Gracilaria> Since they are babies would I have to worry about the Sailfin and the hippo tangs fighting? <Yes, probably> Do you think ich will be a problem? <Almost certainly if no quarantine is used. Here's the catch 22: By the time any of these fish are done with a 6 week quarantine period, they will have certainly outgrown an 11 gallon nano. There are much more appropriate selections available- Perhaps a pair of Shrimp Gobies with a few pistol shrimp?> I really would like to get them, but I want to be sure I can provide for their needs. Can you recommend any good articles? <I type in the Latin names of the fish you are thinking about into this: http://wetwebmedia.com/Googlesearch.htm . Good luck! Ryan> BTW, I have 2 other 6+ yrs est. tanks and I passed the one yr anniversary on my flame scallop. heehee <Glad to hear> Thanks so much for your help! Love you guys, take care, Morgan Mok The dreaded nano-reef - a challenge! 4/20/04 hi crew, <howdy> I have a nano 12 gallon reef and has been going well for the past 5-6 months. <with all due respect my friend... 5-6 months is not any real test of time. Some animals are hardy enough to hang in for some months before showing signs of stress/death, etc> I added corals over time and they seemed to be doing well. <Hmmm... do be careful of unnatural mixes or keeping more than just a couple of similar animals in a tank this small. Most all corals can easily outgrow 12 gallons of water in mere months. The mixing of multiple species in such aquaria requires extraordinary husbandry (large weekly water changes, heavy chemical filtration, etc> Recently, about 3 weeks ago, I added a red open brain and shortly after, <this is a deep water, low light species that must be kept on a deep sand bottom or it will perish in time. It also is an extremely "hungry" coral that needs fed minced meaty foods several times weekly. A great burden on such a small tank> noticed some of my xenias are not acting so well and eventually all of them died (sob), a total of 4 stems, each about 2 inches. 2 nights ago, I added some brown button polyps and saw that the brain looked like it got clipped on a side (rest of sides are fleshy) and I resituated him to another place because I noticed a Condy anemone very close by. <ughh... please stop right there. Seriously. An Atlantic anemone with pacific corals is rough. The fact that any anemone is in this tank so small with the risk of moving and stinging other cnidarians really is a recipe for disaster in the long run. Before you buy another creature, please do read/research more here about suitable tank mates, husbandry, etc.> Next day, my brain looked like it got fried for some reason and all the flesh melted! and they stank! I'm really concerned now that my tank may be poisoned. <a few large water changes take care of this> All params are ok -ph 8.2, zero ammonia, zero nitrite, 10ml nitrate but I don't have a reading for calcium since I don't have a kit. <no worries... weekly water changes (50%) should negate this concern> I do add liquid calcium once every 2 days (2-3 drops each time). <liquid calcium is a temporary calcium and not be used long term for fear of skewing the Ca/ALK dynamic with the accumulated Chloride ions from the liquid Calcium> Now my torch coral looks a little messed up too. I have spotted Shrooms, fluorescent Shrooms, Ricordeas, green zoos, torch, hammer, button polyps, red brain, xenias and a Condy anemone. I have moved out the brain to a quarantine tank and its all down to its skeleton and I'm really in need to advice here. Hope the info is sufficient for some good advice. Thanks in advance. <nano-tanks are a great challenge and your problems in this tank are tough to address when I'm not sure what kind of husbandry and hardware you have. In such a small reef, it makes a big difference in the advice/opinions shared.. speaking particularly to stocking levels, which at present sound to high (species number, not volume per se). Please do take the time to read more about mini-, micro-nano-reef keeping and more in our archives at wetwebmedia.com Anthony> New to Salt, but not to Water >Hi there, I just got a DIY 16 gallon aquarium (21"L x 10"W x 18.5"H) with a built in wet/dry from a friend today. The wet/dry is built on the outside of the tank, so it doesn't take away space from the tank. The bulkhead has a 1" opening. I have been doing freshwater for years and wanted to try saltwater. I know it's a small tank, but I already have a 55 gallon and a 40 gallon FW running in my house. >>It well qualifies as a nano, however, these *can* be done and be done well. I would not normally recommend a nano for a first time salt keeper, though. But, it is what it is, yes? >I read a bunch of FAQs and planned out my new aquarium. I want to double check with you guys to see if I'm okay to keep mistakes to a minimal. >>Alright. >I plan on 15-20 lbs of live rock (not sure which type, open to suggestions) >>Everyone has their favorites, personally, I'm open to anything that's wild-collected and has as much life as possible. I also prefer to cure myself, as that's the best way of ensuring that *I* get as much of the original life on that rock as possible (there's die-off each time it's shipped). >20 lbs of live sand >>In my opinion, unless you're in a huge hurry, just get sand, let the rock that you've cured yourself seed the sand. >Either a 28 watt or a 55/65 watt CF >>Lighting depends on what you want to keep. In such a system I say start with stuff like green star polyps, yellow polyps, some mushrooms (watch out for Rhodactis species, some are fish-eaters), maybe a Tridacna derasa clam, stuff like that. >I was thinking about keeping 1 clown, 1 goby, 1 seahorse, 1 cleaner shrimp, and maybe a few other invertebrates if space permits. >>I must object to the seahorse. If seahorses are what you want, then DEDICATE the system to them. Your little DIY'er is perfect for them, but don't add fish that can out compete for food. Also, they do *not* do well in the high flow systems where these other animals are normally found. >Also, I need to buy a powerhead to run the wet/dry. How many GPH would you recommend? >>For most "reef" type systems, we want to see 10x the TOTAL volume of the system. Include the capacity of the wet/dry when factoring this. If you want more (and much better) information on seahorses, go to http://www.seahorse.org/ and (!) please do not buy wild-caught animals. The reasoning goes thusly; seahorses have no proper 'gut', and as such, are essentially an 'in-one-end-and-out-the-other' creature. This being the case, wild-caught animals are practically starved when they reach the wholesaler. Also, while depletion for the aquarium trade is nominal when compared to the Asian medicinal trade, it certainly doesn't help the problem, whereas patronizing breeders minimizes this effect. (Just my two cents) >Thanks for your help. Thomas >>You're welcome, and good luck and HAVE FUN! Marina New 20g tall stocking questions 4/13/04 1) I just started a twenty gallon (tall) marine aquarium-it has just cycled and my wife and I are about to go out and get our first fish- The tank has some live rock (9lb) and a couple of hermit crabs, a camelback shrimp, 3 medium sized snails, plus a chocolate chip starfish. My question; What four fish would you recommend? We want them to be very colorful and of course hardy-damsels don't do much for me. I would also like to add a couple of cleaner shrimp. I keep a 45 gallon tank of Cichlids but Saltwater is a different world. <In a tank that size, you are limited to smaller fish that aren't active swimmers. Clownfish, blennies, gobies, firefish and cardinal fish are all decent choices. Most of the above are size/activity appropriate for your tank (or at least will have a couple of years before outgrowing it). Beware that some gobies and firefish are potential jumpers.> 2) We had a lot of algae, hence the hermit crabs and the snails-they seem to have really done a number on the live rock-which is practically white now. I am using half/half lighting, 12 hours a day. Have I hurt the live rock? <Coralline can be killed by being overgrown with nuisance algae. Also, coralline algae requires vigorous water movement (ideally 10x the volume of the tank per hour) and proper maintenance of calcium and alkalinity.> Have I made a mistake with the Choc. Chip star fish? ok three questions. <That depends. Chocolate Chip stars are voracious carnivorous predators. It probably isn't a threat to any of your fish, but it will need to be fed a pea size to marble size piece of meaty food at least every few days.> Appreciate your help. Best regards Rob <Glad to! Best Regards. Adam> Micro reef refugium lighting 4/8/04 I am setting up a 10 gallon micro reef, which I plan on housing some Acropora with probably 15lbs of LR, and a ? inch sand bed. For lighting I am going to try the Coralife quad tube 50/50 - I think this should be enough for my Acropora - I hope. <unless the Acropora you select is brown colored and deep water, I strongly suspect this will not be enough light> I have the 10gal drilled for a ? inch bulkhead and standpipe for surface skimming. 1st question - Will ? inch plumbing be enough for a 200-250 gph flow? <yes, easily> I plan on augmenting my flow with an external HO filter I have laying around with no media in it - this will also give me an easy place for carbon if I ever need it. <its always recommended IMO. Please run carbon full time to ensure optimal water clarity and penetration of light in the tanks water> I want to keep the bioload low, so I will probably only keep some hermits and snails for cleanup - but I know me, I may end up with one small fish or shrimp in there, but I am going to try to resist the temptation. <resist the crabs to o while you are at it, more harm than good to other beneficial life forms... particularly in a small tank> I have ordered a custom sump to fit within the stand - dimensions are 17L" x 8"W x 14" H with a 7"L x 8"W partition in that sump for my skimmer and heater. The rest of the sump will be a refugium. I plan on keeping a 4-6 inch fine sand bed - a couple extra lbs of LR and macro here. I will light this area with 18 watts of pc - unless you think this is not enough. I will run the lights on the reverse cycle of the display tank. <do consider Chaetomorpha or Gracilaria for your macro... resist Caulerpa in small tanks in particular> I am a bit confused as to what type or macro should be kept here. I have been told a lot from the LFS but it seems everything they have told me is on the noxious side according to your site - any recommendations? <not everything, my friend... Caulerpa is though (far and away).> Last question... should my raw water empty into the refugium or the skimmer side of the sump? <directly into the skimmer or a catch basin that feeds the skimmer> Thanks, John MacKay <best regards, Anthony> Micro reef refugium lighting 4/8/04 Thank you so much for your quick reply and all of the wonderful information you guys have put together for us enthusiasts!!! <always welcome my friend> In my last post I think I have all my questions answered, except one. What recommendations would you have to light a 10gal SPS tank? <for lamp color, we'd need to chat about the exact species you want to keep. But to generalize, a 6500-8k K lamp would be best... you may go as blue as a 10k K.> I was thinking about a 96 watt 50/50 PC system - I forgot to mention the wattage in my last post. <the wattage is excellent... but the color is possibly too blue for some species. The 50% actinic here is mostly for aesthetics and is delivered at the expense of more usable/useful daylight. DO focus on warmer daylight for most corals> Thanks again John <best regards, Anthony> Small tank lighting 3/22/04 In such a small tank, (10 gallons) what would you recommend for sand sifting? <good water circulation and occasional hand stirring alone may be enough> I don't mind doing it myself but I would much rather have some help naturally. <Hmm... the concern here is that not many things can survive on so little sand> Sand sifting star, <Yikes! Some of these starve to death in time in 100 gallon aquariums with deep sand beds. Not a prayer in a 10 gallon> some kind of snail, sea cucumber (yellow), or something else all together? (I prefer not to have fish) <no sea cucumbers for the same reason(s) as the sand star. How about a simple brittle or serpent starfish instead. They'll eat prepared foods too if the sand is not enough> Is it bad to NOT have fish in a ten gallon reef tank? <no... not if you can provide your corals an alternate source of nitrogen/food sans fish feces> Also for SPS I'm going with a power compact 32w 10,000K, normal flor.15w 10,000K, and a power compact 32w actinic, ok? ( I haven't bought any bulbs for an existing fixture...yet) <all fine here> One last question... Is it harmful/ helpful to use a normal fluor. 15w Blue Moon bulb all night long? <no harm... and little to no help either. Only has an impact on sighted animals (modestly even then) and since you don't have/want any fishes... that really limits the impressed crowd> (They claim the bulb is great for night viewing, is it bad for SPS growth?) <no harm that I am aware of> (Thought)....Can I use 2-power compact 32w 10,000K (for 8-10 hrs) and a blue moon 15w bulb all day/ night <agreed> Sorry about the jumbled up questions just want the lighting to be correct, thanks in advance...again. <no worries... best of luck. Anthony> Small System With Big Potential Hey guys!! <Scott F. with you today!> What a joy it is to have a resource like your website. If I had had this when I first began, I could have avoided many problems. I have been out of the hobby for about six years after having successfully kept a beautiful 75 gal soft and LPS reef (kept a Mandarin for three years until I sold the set up) and a "somewhat" successful 60 gal FOWLR. However, it took a great deal of hard lessons and lost livestock to get there. I have been bitten by the saltwater bug again and wish to get it right this time. As a result of my desire to build the perfect system, I may have overdone my research. I have spent the past three years building a "library" of research materials including books written by your staff, scouring any internet resource I could find including countless hours on your site, and slowly purchasing pieces of this "perfect" system. <Nothing wrong with doing it slowly> Now that I think that I have it all together, I am confused and doubting my design. Too much input - unfortunately, I have found stark contradictions in my research. <Imagine that! Contradictions in the marine hobby? Nah! LOL> However, I have come to trust your staff for reliable / current data and advice. I am hoping that you can "quick check" my design and offer any advice before I actually begin. <I'll do my best> I wanted to keep it small, as I have a spinal condition and wanted to avoid hauling a lot of water around, but not too small. I opted for a double 30 gal setup on a metal stand (mostly because it was given to me and suited my approximate desire in size). The "main" 30 gal tank is predrilled and overflows into the 30 gal "sump/refugium" which is then pumped back into the main tank via an external Little Giant 3-MDQ-SC (about 650 gph minus a little for head pressure or about 12 x the total tank volume per hour). <I like the fact that your 'fuge is as large as the tank it will service! Very beneficial> I will use a AquaC Remora Skimmer. I have a 95 watt 10,000k PC with two 30w NO actinics on the main tank and a3 6w 50/50 PC and a 36w 6700k PC over the refugium area of the sump (I will run these opposite each other). I purchased an RO/DI system as well. I figure the total water volume to be around 45-50 gal, so I will purchase 60-80 lbs of Fiji LR and split this between the main tank and sump / refugium. My sump / refugium is a pretty simple setup. Two glass baffles separating the sump into three chambers: overflow from main tank which will hold chemical media, heater and skimmer; which will overflow over into the refugium; which will overflow into the return area for make-up of evaporated water, kalkwasser dosing, etc.. This last chamber will be the only chamber to fluctuate during evaporation or water changes. I have a T section on the overflow from the main tank with ball valves on each so that I may direct some of the over flow directly into the overflow/skimmer chamber and some of the overflow directly over the sandbed in the refugium. I appear to have complete control over the flow into each chamber. <Very nice configuration. Giving the skimmer and refugium constant water flow will enhance their function> The whole system has been run with freshwater and I don't have any problems with drainage even if either of these is completely closed. I will use a sponge filter in the overflow from the main tank for mechanical filtration, if at all. <Do clean the sponge very often, like every couple of days, so that it does not accumulate excess nutrients that can degrade water quality and lead to nuisance algae outbreaks.> I hope that my description makes sense. <Yes it does, and you sound like you put a lot of good thought into the system> My questions are these: 1. RE: Refugium Flow Rate. The entire flow through the sump (approx 650 gph) goes through the refugium, either directly flowing over from the first chamber, or directly drained from the main tank, or split between the two (via the T section of the overflow pipe). Is this going to be to much flow for a refugium? <I don't believe that this is excessive. You'd want a brisk flow through the refugium. However, if it's stirring up sand and making a mess, you can always dial down the flow> It is my understanding that flow over a sandbed, particularly if using a plenum, should be strong. However, I have seen mixed opinions here. What is yours? <I like strong flow, as long as you don't create a mess, as cited above> I want to not only gain the benefit of denitrification through the sandbed/plenum but also denitrification from macroalgae and a nice supply of critters for the main tank. Is the flow going to be too high for the growth of macro algae? <I don't believe so. Try Chaetomorpha and/or Gracilaria, both of which are free-floating and seem to appreciate the flow> Is the flow going sweep away any critters in the refugium? <Probably not. Most of these creatures face significant flow rates in the wild, and can find ways to cope in captivity, no doubt.> Will the return pump shred these guys anyway? <Really depends on the animals in question. Many planktonic creatures can pass through impellers just fine. There was a fair amount of discussion of this topic on many internet message groups over the years, but nothing really conclusive seems to have come of it, IMO.> If the flow is too high, I could direct some of the overflow from the main tank into the return chamber via the T section and completely bypass the refugium, but I am also bypassing filtration. Any thoughts would be helpful. <I don't think that your flow sounds too high. Go with it> 2. RE: DSB or Plenum. I really don't want to build a DSB in the display tank. At 30 gal., it would just take up too much space. I am hoping to get away with a 1/2 inch substrate in the main tank. The refugium area in the sump is 1/3 the total volume of the sump, which would be about 1/6 the total volume of the entire set-up. Is this enough area to gain any benefit from the use of a plenum or DSB? I have heard concerns over the use of a plenum due to crap leeching form the plenum. <I think that plenums are very useful, proven methodology. I'm not concerned about substances leeching into the system from plenums. However, it is important to follow the generally accepted principles of plenum construction when using one. You should not "freelance" in plenum construction. Personally, I like "static" deep sand beds (3-4 inches plus) for their simplicity.> However, I have thought of installing a small stand pipe with a ball valve to occasionally siphon out small amounts of water from the plenum. Hove you heard of anyone using this technique with any success? <Not really. I'd leave this area undisturbed> Are there hazards to siphoning out too much water? Plenum vs. DSB seems to be a major area of conflict in my research. I guess what I am really asking is: Is a DBS occupying only 1/6 the bottom area of the system enough for adequate denitrification? <Think in terms of sand bed depth. A 4" static DSB with oolithic aragonite would work just fine> Would I gain more from the use of a plenum? Is a DSB with plenum this small even going to be enough? <If constructed correctly, it can be beneficial. I'm still thinking that a static DSB would work just fine in your system> I plan on a very light bio-load as far as fish are concerned. Maybe 1 Dwarf Angel, 1 blenny, 1 clown or Hawkfish, <Go for the clown> and a Mandarin after the system is really established (depending on the success of the refugium to produce critters). <Add that Mandarin after the system has been VERY well established and the refugium really "cooking"> I am hoping to keep water changes down to 10% every two weeks. I am additionally hoping not to lose a single organism this time. <Great!> I know this is a rather long e-mail, but I hoped to only bother you guys once. Thanks in advance for any help you can give. Your literature and ongoing advice in your web site has already done much to aid my endeavors. Clifton Grant <Not a bother Clifton. You've certainly put in a lot of thought here, and I think that you are on the right track. Good luck! Regards, Scott F> Nano reef tank - Will it last? Hi WWW crew! <Hello. I think you mean "WWM" rather than "WWW" :) > Love this site! It's da bomb! I wrote in earlier about clownfish sucking anemone behaviour. They're still sucking and I'm cool with that. Just thought you'd like to know... <Thank you for the great comments and the update on your clownfish behaviour!> I've read and heard a lot about micro systems, and the general consensus seems to be "the bigger the better". My mini system is a year old and everything I bought when I first got it is still alive (good sign?). <Very good sign.> I don't have the space for a big set-up, so this is the best I can do. I do small water changes consistently (every 2 weeks, 10%) as I don't have space for a skimmer. I use distilled and/or rainwater, bubbled and aged for at least a week. I test and document my water parameters at each water change and it's been consistent for at least 6 months. There's a healthy population of copepods and some long greenish hairy algae (looks like ferns) which the turbo snail grazes on. I feed my rose anemone a mix of finely minced shrimp, clams and mysis (twice a wk), clowns and shrimps get mysis and pellet food (small amts daily), filter feeders get DT live plankton every other day and I stir up gravel bed twice a week as well. What's the long-term outlook on my tank? Is it doomed to fail? <Your long term outlook looks like it's going to be great.> Must I go bigger or lose Rosie, Fanny & Grumps? <No need to go bigger if you don't have the room.> It's a space and mobility issue, not cost and time. I'm OK with an anemone/clownfish only tank, but I'm worried that Rosie will grow so big I have to get a bigger set-up or give her up. She's gorgeous, I love her! Tell me I can keep her! Here are the numbers: Tank specs: 30 litre tank (7 gallons), 10lbs live rock, 2 inch thick live sand bed, mini PC white/blue light with reflector (on timer for 12 hours a day), overhead filter with submerged powerhead and another small powerhead (3W) for current/ water flow. Water parameters: SG 1.022, temp 25 deg / 77 f, Nitrites 0, Ammonia 0 and ph 8.2 Livestock: 1 rose anemone (Rosie), 2 ocellaris clowns (Fanny & Grumps), 1 small purple star polyps (spreading steadily), 1 small blue sponge, 1 small pink Dendronepthya, 1 blue pepper sea fan, few mushrooms, 1 feather duster worm, 1 marble shrimp, 1 cleaner shrimp, 2 sexy shrimp and 1 turbo snail (See attached file: anemone.jpg) <One sentence of advice: If it isn't broke, don't fix it :) Your tank sounds like it's going on very nicely and there's no reason to try to improve something if it's already doing fine for a year. I'm sure if you continue to take good care if the tank it'll be still going on strong 5 years from now.> Cheers, Yvette :) <Take Care, Graham.> Question on Future Direction 3/13/04 Greetings Crew, <Hi Tom!> I started my first marine tank about two months ago. It's a 20 gallon (24x12x16h). Right now, the tank has completed cycling. Specific gravity is 1.022, ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates ~2, pH 8.0, temp 78?F. <If you are planning on keeping invertebrates, I would strongly recommend raising your SG to 1.025 and add alkalinity and calcium to your testing regime.> The tank is stocked with about 5 pounds of live rock with nice coralline growth, some interesting plant-like algal growths, small tube worms, etc. The substrate is about 2.5 inches of crushed coral. Right now I am running a penguin 175 bio wheel filter. I do weekly 10% water changes using treated tap water. I am aware of the eventual need for a protein skimmer, but as the tank is stocked now, it is unnecessary. <If you are going to add rock in the future, it must be completely cured (don't trust your vendor for this task). This makes future additions of rock quite a chore. Adding another 10 or so lbs. now along with replacing the bio-wheel with a skimmer will likely save you a lot of headaches down the road. The bio-wheel will tend to encourage the accumulation of nitrate.> I have in there two Nassarius snails, two Nerites, and one Mexican turbo. I have two damsels- a blue devil and a yellowtail. They "play" rough sometimes, but they are happy and in good health. I have also noticed a healthy and burgeoning population of amphipods and much smaller copepods. <Sounds great!> Essentially I do not so much have a question as I am looking for advice. I have read the postings on your site at length, I promise. Because of this, I don't know where to go from here- it is all so overwhelming. I feel over-educated if that is possible. I am worrying about problems that I am far from even being able to come across. <Something we have all gone through. There are so many choices that it becomes overwhelming trying to make decisions. Be careful of getting caught in the plan of "I know I need this eventually, but I can get away without it for now". Equipment and rock is expensive, but doing it right up front will pay for itself in fewer animal losses and heartache.> Basically, I am looking to have some type of reef tank eventually, with fish and corals, but I'm in no rush. I know lighting is a major issue, and protein skimming, and that I will need a lot more live rock... But if you could perhaps suggest some good beginning corals that I could do some more of my own research on, and a beginning lighting set up, that would be great. <I am general not a fan of PC lighting, but for smaller tanks, shorter PC lamp lengths are ideal. Corallimorphs (mushrooms), zoanthids and leather corals all make good beginner corals.> Also, I am interested in a Royal Gramma. If he had enough places to hide, could he get along with the Damsels, which don't seem overly aggressive? Also, could you suggest fish that could go with my proposed trio? I would not go with more than four of any fish. Thank you very much. Tom <A royal Gramma is iffy in your tank. It is a bit small, and if harassed by the damsels, there is a high risk of it jumping. For smaller tanks, it is best to stick with fish that aren't open water swimmers... Think gobies and blennies, but please do avoid the very problematic mandarins and "scooter blennies". The smallest of the pygmy angels would probably do OK also. Best regards! Adam.> Small Tank Husbandry Hi There, <Hi there! Scott F. with you today!> As you might aware, I've been bugging you a lot lately... Thanks for everything :) <Not bugging us at all! That's what we are here for!> Scenario: 14.5 gallon tank (24x12x12 inches) 2 ocellaris clown (1.5 inches) 1 blue streak damsel (1 inches) 1 coral banded shrimp 1 anemone (soon to be deported) Virtually no life rock (2 pounds for decorative purposes) 1 inch crush coral substrate 36 W PC fluorescent (10000K/actinic 50/50 tube) Counter current skimmer (I can't remember the specification, but it is the tallest that I can fit in this tank) 1000 L/h external canister filter with Chemi Pure, activated carbon, bio ceramics It seems that the longer I stay in this hobby the more I know that I am lacking :p <We're all still learning!> ... I'd like to improve my current system to be a happier place for my livestock. Here are the questions: 1. Is my tank overcrowded? <Well, I'd say that you are at the tank's stocking limit. I'd avoid adding any more livestock at this point> 2. Though they appear happy currently, I'd like to increase my live rocks to 19.5 pounds. Is it too much? Too little? How much would you recommend? <Well, in a tank of about 15 gallons volume, you're going to be displacing valuable water with the addition of more live rock, And, higher water volume makes maintenance and husbandry easier for you. Unless you are building a refugium or sump, which increases water volume, I'd avoid any more live rock> 3. I vacuum the substrate at least once weekly. Is it sufficient? <Sure. But don't over-do it. Heavy siphoning can disrupt the very processes that you are trying to foster. Just siphon the top 1/4 inch or so> 4. I've read that crushed coral substrate are able to trap junk and create nitrate problem. Would my maintenance enough to prevent this? If not how often should I replace it? With this substrate would I need further calcium supplement? <Well, there is a lot of controversy on substrate size and depth. Conventional wisdom on sand beds suggests that you go with 3 inches or more of fine substrate for denitrification. On the other hand, with careful maintenance, you could have a sustainable sandbed (although not as efficient at denitrification) with this depth. The real "knock" on crushed coral is that it can accumulate detritus if not carefully maintained. Yours seems to be well-maintained. The need for calcium supplementation should be determined by testing> 5. I thought of replacing this substrate to deep sand bed with 3.5 inches of aragonite sand. Is it effective for DSB to work in such a tiny system? If so, is it thick enough? How thick would you recommend? <You hit it on the head! Again, think about water volume lost in this system if you go with a deep sand bed. Another one of the reasons why I think smaller tanks are a real challenge to maintain> 6. I've read that partial life sand seeding can eventually turn the whole substrate to live sand. If I were to place life rock on top of ordinary sand, or even without life rock, will ordinary sand eventually turn into live sand? <Absolutely!> Does DSB need to be built by live sand for it to be functional at all? <Nope- you can use inert sand, and "seed it" with a cup of live sand> 7. How can we tell that whether aragonite sand in LFS is really aragonite and not silicate when buying them? <Buy an established brand, such as CaribSea, which will clearly state that the product is aragonite-based on the label> 8. With my current lighting, what corals would you recommend? Will changing 50/50 tube to pure 6500K or 10000K tube improve photosynthesis? <Well, I'd stay with smaller, less demanding animals. Zoanthids or Corallimorphs would be good. Remember my caveat about additional bioload, though> 9. My skimmer isn't producing any "coloured" stuffs. Does it mean that it is not working? Or it is due to the low bio load, small tank size, or Chemi Pure? <It really needs to be adjusted until it produces dark, yucky skimmate. Even a well established, nutrient poor system should yield skimmate if the skimmer is well-adjusted> 10. Is the filter flow enough? <For the animals that you are maintaining, it seems okay. Monitor carefully and adjust if needed> 11. What is your opinion of Chemi Pure? About it's claim that it can keep nitrates low for 6 months and can do without water change for FIVE YEARS? <It's a good product. I don't like the "no water change" claim, though. Kind of crazy!> 12.With my tank size, would 20% fortnightly water change be enough to replenish the trace elements? <Yep. I'd consider smaller, more frequent changes (5% of tank volume twice weekly) to ensure maximum stability> I realize that this is a lot of question... Thanks again... Wid <My pleasure! Good luck! Regards, Scott F> More Light? More Skimming! I have just recently got a 15 gallon tank started two weeks ago, this is what I have setup: 24" 55 Watt CP 24 lbs. Jakarta LR Glass top canopy Zoo-med PS-30 powerhead (190Lph rated) 2" Agaramax sandbed 13 hermit crabs 1 Emerald crab 1 pink something starfish 2 true Clownfishes Anyway, my problem with the tank is lighting, because the light is heating up my tank, so I had to buy legs for it, and after that it cured the problem, but now I feel like there's not enough light in there, never really was satisfied with the light, so I am planning to return the light and get a new one, these are the two that I am looking at, either a double tube 1-65Watt True Actinic 03 Blue and 1-65Watt 10,000K CFs, or same fixture 2-36Watts, both by Coralife. Is there such a thing as too much light? <Well, some of my SPS-geek friends would say a resounding "No!", but it is certainly possible to over-light some organisms> Would I be better off going for 72 Watts total? <I'd get the 65 watters, myself- or even 96 watters, if your system can accommodate 'em> I am planning to add quite a few corals in there later too, and if any room, anemones but not a must. <Best to keep anemones in a dedicated system designed for their specific needs> Coralline algae is starting to appear, but not too quick. Please let me know about your thoughts... :) <I'd go for the higher lighting, myself, especially if corals are in your future. Better to have too much light (and you probably will not) and dim it then to not have enough> Other than that, I am pretty unsure about the need for a protein skimmer? Does it prolong water changes only, or does it improve the general appearance of the water (weekly water changes now), coloration, and water quality? <Well, water changes should be a regular part of your maintenance routine, regardless of whether or not you have a skimmer. Skimmers are your "first line of defense" against declining water quality. They help remove organics from the water before they have a chance to accumulate and degrade the water conditions. I think that a skimmer is an essentially part of any marine system!> (ammonia 0, nitrate 5ppm, nitrite 0, pH 8.3 now) Thanks for your time and attention... Cheers!! Jagryes <My pleasure! Regards, Scott F> Nano Questions (3/7/04) First, your site rocks! <Steve Allen here. I love it too. I've learned a lot both as a reader and as a crewmember.> Second, got a quick "reef" question for you. I currently have an Eclipse 12 with roughly 15 lbs of live rock, well established, with a 50/50 Actinic 13 watt light. <power compact?> My pursuit is a "mini-reef" setup and my question is this: what (if any) kind of corals/anemones, etc could I use in my tank. I currently have no fish in my tank (another part of the question) and wonder what I am capable of keeping. Some say Percula clowns, some say gobies, some say only one fish, some say several. I have heard so many differing stories from different LFS's, I wanted to hear it straight from the pros! <Well, I'd say experienced amateur. As for LFS, you have to remember that they're in it to make money.> Thanks for your help! <I hope this helps: First, I strongly recommend no anemone. Too hard to get the pristine water conditions you need. Also, not enough light. The low light and small size also limits what you can do with corals. Some more light would really help. Mushrooms should be OK. Perhaps a Fungia if you have a patch of bare sand. Zoanthids might work. As for fish, probably only one, perhaps two if small. If you have good filtration, you might be able to do a single Percula clown or Royal Gramma. A Firefish would be nice and you might be able to keep a shrimp goby with it. You could also go with a fish and a shrimp -- a Firefish and a fire shrimp, perhaps.> Nano SPS tank Hello again crew members. <Hello, a fellow SPS Fanatic at your service :)> I need advice about a choice in coral I made that I think is a mistake now. I have a SPS nano tank that is 20 gallons. I even have a nano calcium reactor made by Myreef. It is very cool and does the job. <Sounds nice!> I do have some soft coral that I added. It is now my concern. A frag of zoanthids and a toadstool leather. I know that these two corals and my SPS do not like each other and fight. <Correct.> I wonder if I have any chance of keeping them together when I am doing water changes of 10% each week. And that I add active carbon fresh each week. <Both the genus Sinularia and Sarcophyton will release chemicals into the water column which acts as a growth inhibitor. This chemical (defense) usually targets Acropora and Porites. I highly discourage mixing species in such a small aquarium because of this. Along with the chemical issue, physical warfare can occur if these corals get too close to each other. Yes, it can be done successfully if you run carbon constantly, but as I said above, I discourage mixing soft corals with SPS corals in such a small aquarium. Overall, if you run carbon constantly you shouldn't have too much to worry about.> Thank you, Karl <Take Care, Karl! Graham S.> Nano keeping in a JBJ box - 3/2/04 Hello...<Howdy!> I have been looking at purchasing the Nano Cube and using it to start a small reef system. <Not worth it in my opinion. Better to build your own from the ground up. JBJ does not have a great name when it comes to quality. Get a 10gal or 20gal with the proper lighting and filtration and work up from there. Be sure to decide your tank inhabitants and define design and costs before starting.> When I say small, I was thinking of adding some star polyps, mushrooms and a small fish. <How big is this nano-cube??> I was wondering what your opinions are of the this tank and what are its limitations. <Lots of limitations. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/small.htm Hard to maintain water parameters and require diligent maintenance.> I have had a successful reef system in the past, but my wife made me take it down since it was so large. <Smaller isn't easier, that is for sure. Not that it can't be done, and you do have experience, but move slowly. Knowledge is power!!> Thanks for your help. <Thank you for being part of it all. ~Paul> Brent Nano- No-No? Dear Whomever can help me :), <Scott F. the "Whomever" today!> First off, I'd like to say that I love the site. Very informative and helpful, especially for a beginner like myself. <Glad that you find it helpful! We're proud and pleased to be able to bring it to you every day!> I started a 15 gal reef tank about 2 months ago. I was originally going to use this, with high W/gal lighting, as a prop tank for coral. So, I originally got a 2x65W PC coral life fixture. Of course, I didn't know a ton about salt tanks at the time (which is why I started with a 15) but have been doing a lot of research before and since I got it started. <That's all good!> I started cycling the tank with a yellow tail, a Chromis, and a few small pieces of live rock. After about a month, I threw in my star polyp rock and small branch coral that I'd been storing in my girl friends tank. <Thank goodness for understanding girlfriends, huh?> Everything looked good and I'd never seen my branch coral so big until about a week or so later when I had a spike in nitrates & nitrites and lost my Chromis and noticed both coral not looking good like they did before. <Yikes!> I then did a 30% (or so) water change, and everything's been fine since w/ water quality. Every time I test everything looks good. I tested last night and read PH ~ 8.3, ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates 0. I keep it about 78degF, w/ SG of ~ 1.023. I now have a (2") cleaner shrimp, about 10 very small blue leg crabs, 2 ( 3/4 - 1" ) turbo snails, 3 other small 'flat shelled' snails, 1 Neon Goby, 1 (1") 3 Striped Damsel, 1 (1") Sergeant Damsel, 1 (3/4")Domino Damsel, 1 (1") Yellowtail damsel. <I'd avoid any more fish additions to this tank for now. You're right on the edge with this population> I've had most of this for a couple weeks now. I also have the same small rock with star polyps on it, the same small branch coral, and recently purchased a yellow leather coral. I also have a few inches of live sand, about 8lbs live rock and am using a Penguin Mini, wet/dry filter. The filter is supposed to be rated for at least 15gal, (20gal, If I remember correctly). I do have quite a bit of algae growing on glass and what not. <Do use aggressive, regular water changes and liberal use of chemical filtration media (activated carbon and/or PolyFilter) to help keep things clean. A small water volume with a heavy population is a real challenge> My problem is this: Every morning my tank looks great, clean, and healthy, besides the coral still being somewhat asleep. When I get home from work the water looks all cloudy and I can see a somewhat powdery substance floating on the top (orange\brownish mix in color). The first time I noticed this I tried another 20% or so water change. It looked fine until the next day when I got home from work. Again, it's cloudy with this powdery looking stuff on the surface, and since this has been happening my coral aren't looking great. <Sounds to me to be a combination of things, such as semi-dissolved organics, possible slime from the inverts, etc. A protein skimmer, more active water movement, and a more powerful mechanical filter would all help here> Most days my branch coral extends about half way out, and every once in a while my star polyps come out a couple at a time, but not like they used to, and not all at one time. Thinking the problem might be too much light, because I read to use 2-6W/gal for soft coral, I traded my 130W PC for my girlfriends 96W PC hoping this would solve the problem (good trade for her - 30gal). My W/gal is still a tad over 6, but I reduced it from about 8.7. All fish seem healthy, it's the coral I'm more worried about and, of course, it's not as pretty to look at when it's all cloudy. <I don't think that it's too much light. It's really too much bioload challenging this tank's filtration capabilities> I try not to overfeed ( btw, I use flake food if that helps at all ) and again, my water tested out okay... so, I'm stumped. What could be the problem? <As I mentioned above, I think your problem is too much in too small a system. I'd "beef up" the filtration capabilities of this system, with particular emphasis on protein skimming. I'll bet you'll see a very positive improvement in water quality and animal response once you get some good skimming going there!> Oh, one more question. I bought the branch coral grown onto the inside of a small shell which is just slightly larger than the base of the coral. What's the best way to get him grown onto a rock? <Unfortunately, the term "branch coral" can apply to a number of different corals, ranging from Acropora to Sinularia. If it's a hard coral that you're talking about, you can use one of the glues or epoxies made for this purpose. If it is a soft coral, the coral will eventually put down enough tissue to attach itself to rock or substrate, given time and little disturbance> The other animals in the tank always knock him off the rocks that I place him. I've tried just lapping a rock over the edge of the shell he's on, so hopefully with time, he'll grow onto the rock as well.? Is there a better way? <As above> Thanks so much, Josh <Well, Josh- with a few modifications and a little time, things should work out well! Good luck! Regards, Scott F> Building a Small System To all WWM Pro's, <Scott F. with you today-not a "pro"- just a serious fish geek..> Of course, I open my letter pouring out praises on your wealth of knowledge and your desire to provide it free of charge! The web site has prevented me from suffering many problems early on in this hobby, and you have saved many a poor fish's life from my evil/eager snare (let's just say the first fish my wife wanted for saltwater was a mandarin....uh, no way) <Ah- mission accomplished, then!> My question is this: I currently have a 29 gallon Eclipse 3 system that I have had for 1 year and converting to saltwater. The plan is to add 30 lbs of aragonite, and about 40 lbs of live rock ( I already have 15 lbs of live rock that I am preparing in a spare 10 gallon aquarium, and it looks great, tons of copepods, should I be feeding them anything?). <No need for extra feeding...They are obviously finding something that they like already!> I am going to start off with no skimming (stupid eclipse hood), but I plan on keeping only 1 fish for quite awhile (flame angel) and plenty of live rock with partial water change once a week. <Well, if you can't use a skimmer, aggressive water changes-particularly in a smaller system- can help> I would like to build a refugium for this tank (keep in mind I will still run the Eclipse hood, the more flow the better, right?!). <Yep...Maybe you can place a partition in there for a skimmer? Unconventional placement, perhaps, but better than not running a skimmer at all, IMO> I bought another 10 gallon aquarium recently ($7, I'm a sucker when I go into a fish store), and I have devised a simple setup. I know you don't recommend a refugium for this small of a tank, but I would like to start small on my first DIY setup, and money for the big stuff is currently unavailable (also I'm living in an apartment, don't want to move around a 75-100 gal aquarium). <Actually, I think a refugium is beneficial for almost any sized system. Go for it!> Besides, if I screw up a 10 gallon tank, it doesn't matter. I have attached a picture of my plan, drawn to 1/2 size (it should be to scale unless I screwed up). I hope the 3-D makes sense. (1) Is the picture I have attached an optimal design? Should I decrease the sump or return length to increase the net refugium size? I thought I might be concerned about how full it is (in case of a power outage), but it has 3 gallons spare (20inX10inX2.5in+17inX1inX10 =670in3 = 2.9 gal). <Unfortunately, I could not open the attachment, so I have to comment on your questions. The allowance for power failure is important. Sounds like you have that covered, though> (2) The gray spot in the picture is for filter media. Any suggestions? <Well, I'm a big one for activated carbon and Poly Filter as chemical filtration media to use on a regular basis> Extra carbon to make up for lack of skimming? Or should I just put a filter pad in there? <As above> (3) I have a spare Hagen 402 that I will use as the return pump. I figure I can adjust the flow to maintain a stable level in the refugium. What size tubing should I use as a drain from my aquarium and as a return hose for maximum circulation (5/8")? <Well, that's the part that may take some experimentation on your part, unfortunately. I usually say as large as possible, but in a smaller system, you don't wait too much overflow. I guess my best advice is start small and move up to a larger size if dictated> (Out of curiosity, what is the flow rate for a gravity draining hose of an X diameter?) <Hmm...I'm sure that there is a formula-just don't know it off hand. Sorry> (4) Any particular brand of adhesive that you prefer for this kind of a project? <Glass tanks would call for silicone. IMO, acrylic is best handled with a specialized acrylic/plastic adhesive (brand names escape me at the moment). Do check out the remarkable DIY site, OzReef, for many DIY projects and techniques> (5) An unrelated question to the refugium: I have this creature on my live rock, I thought at first he was an urchin (long spines) but he was white. After a few weeks, he has gotten bigger, and has a base like an anemone, but a top closer to a feather duster. He is about as big as my fingernail; eats up all the copepods that he can snatch up. What is he? <If you can send a picture, we can make a good ID attempt for you...> I'm thinking there are a ton more questions I need to ask you, but I can only remember these right now. I read your site everyday. I'm planning on building my own overflow, but I think I can handle that. Thanks for your help. <Glad to hear that! We enjoy bringing the site to you every day!> Oh, Bob, I love Conscientious Marine Aquarist, I got it for Christmas from the in-laws (I take care of their 50 gal). I have let a few friends borrow it, and it is giving them the courage to step out on their own in the fish world. <I'm sure that Bob will be glad to hear that!> Thanks for your help. Erik W. <Good luck, Eric! Regards, Scott F.> Nano Reef skimmer - 2/13/04 Hello (whoever is there now)! <Heyo! It's me, Paulo> You have a fabulous website, with great information. I love to just read through the archives (even ones that don't apply yet). <Totally> Sorry for the long email for a short question: I have a 10 gallon nano-reef. <Cool. Me too! I have two of them established over three years ago. Same inhabitants for the past 2 years> 16 lbs of live rock and 22 pounds of live sand. <Na-hice!!!!> 64w PC (50/50). Running about 7 months. <Just coming out of the complete cycle process> My corals have all been started as 'rejects' from friends or LFS. <Sweet> All growing and extending beautifully (8 different soft ones). There is about 150 miniature feathers that came in on the rocks and have now multiplied. <Same here. Usually a result of feeding true phyto> I have a 3" clump of Caulerpa in the corner, the added green color swaying is cool (but I have keep it trimmed a LOT). <Oh yeah> I have a 2.5" T. Maxima, brilliant blue color (already grown from a 2" original size). 4 little hermit crabs and 5 snails. <Sounds sweet. Send some pics!> The main inhabitant is one coral banded shrimp. <Beauty, I bet> Side issue: the 150 gallon reef is researched and about 50% setup and will be matured slowly over the next 12 months (future home for Mr. Clam!). <You sound like a Conscientious Marine Aquarist.> It took about 60 days to get through the algae cycles but now everything seems too perfect! <All too true. So many are not willing to hear that though.> I have one Powersweep Powerhead that really creates turbulence in the little tank and a HOB Whisper Filter (no carbon). <Sounds like my set-up. Have you been spying over the fence??> I do a one gallon water change twice per week (I estimate about 6.5 to 7.0 gallons total in system). Water is as follows: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, Phosphate 0, Calcium 450, Ph 8.3 (even at night!?), Temp 80-82 deg. F, <Sounds like my maintenance routine as well> Salinity 1.023 to 1.024 (depending on daily top-off). I add 24 ml of Phytoplankton every other day, 1ml of calcium on alternating days with the Phyto, 2 drops each of Kent Iodine and Kent Strontium once per week (probably need to test for these, but it's only 2 drops?). <If isn't broken then don't fix it but, typically there is not a need to add any supplement unless testing for it. In most cases, if you are changing water frequently (as you are) then you could probably discontinue dosing money into your aquarium. =) Hehehh> Now the long-winded question. <Whew!> After tons of research, I would like to add a skimmer. <Not necessary in my opinion. Hard to find a decent sized skimmer and usually because space is not available it becomes a big hassle to fit one. Sounds like your maintenance regime is doing more for keeping nutrients from building up and becoming a problem.> My original readings and research were against it's use in a nano-reef <Well, let me say this though, I believe a skimmer is a necessary piece of equipment (a good skimmer is worth it's weight in gold for sure) but in the nano-reef, it is more important to do frequent water changes which will in turn, help to reduce the build up of nutrients.> but I think I now have converted. The problem is that I'm out of physical space. <Exactly!> I would have to eliminate the HOB filter, so the skimmer needs to be about that size. <If it isn't broke then don't fix it.......> I'm looking at the Skilter <Never used it but for the most part I have heard it is a piece> obviously (same size) or a little inside-tank air stone skimmer. <Don't even bother> If it hangs outside the tank it can't be too big. The tank is a three sided viewing display so the equipment is at the 'long' end. <Whoa. You are outta space, then. Good viewing idea, though> If I get a normal skimmer it would be as big as my tank and hood! <No kidding> I guess I'm asking for your thoughts on continuing not using the skimmer since I change a lot of water. <That is what I would recommend> Did I just talk myself out of it? <Me thinks you did.> Any thoughts? <You already got 'em> Thank you for any advice and / or assistance!!!!! <Thanks for being part of it all ~Paul> Kevin Cobb Feeding a Nano reef - 2/9/04 Hello crew! Thanks so much for your helpful site. <Thanks for being part of it> I have a 12g salt nano and having a hard time deciding how much: Iodine Strontium & Molybdenum Calcium to add. <Well, I will tell you what, the best way to add these supplements in such a small tank is to do weekly water changes, if not twice a week. Do you test for these? The rule of thumb is if you don't test for it don't add it. Words I live by> I have some yellow polyps, trumpet coral and a xenia. I have one clown fish as well. <this is almost too small for most clowns but....I digress. It can be done.> Water condition tests fine, but I can't find on my products how much to add for such a small tank. <Water changes are the best way to replenish lost minerals See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/suppleme.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/watrqualmar.htm> The trumpet coral is looking a little ill. <Lots of reasons for this. Without more specifics, it would be hard to diagnose> I have the Kent Marine Reef Starter Kit with the above solutions. And should I add any other food besides the solutions (for the corals)? <Yellow polyps (Parazoanthus) and the Trumpet coral (Caulastrea) should be fed small mysids, small krill, baby brine (nauplii), zooplankton, and other meaty matter in that size range.> Any guidelines for me? <Hope the above helps ~Paul> Thanks so much, Steve HJ The "Ultimate" Small Reef Tank? Great site, great info, however maybe too much info to digest by the common person. <Hey- we're all common people, so we can relate! Scott F. with you today> For over a year I've read your threads and by now I have forgot what I learned a year ago. Here's the challenge: Design the ideal (in your opinions) 55 gal. reef aquarium. The system will not be a home for the most demanding high light loving corals. Let's say medium to medium high light requirements. In other words a system that the majority of your readers could afford to put together and that would provide the highest quality environment for the inhabitants. Go for it. Give the ideal and let us decide where we have to cut the corners. Thanks for a very informative site. Bert Koelsch <Okay, Bert- break out the checkbook! Remember, what I will propose is just my opinion. If you ask 10 different reefers, you'll get 10 different answers, so take mine with a grain of salt, okay? I'd start by having the tank constructed with a full length overflow (like Anthony outlines in his "Book of Coral Propagation"), leading to about a 25-30 gallon sump, where you'd locate a quality protein skimmer (either a Euroreef or an Aqua C model), some Poly Filter pads, activated carbon, or other chemical filtration media. If budget permits, you could employ a good calcium reactor, like a Knop or Korallin. However, in a tank this small, you could get by with careful additions of Kalkwasser and two-part additives, if you test the water regularly. If you have room, I'd recommend a small refugium, or you could partition part of the sump to serve in this capacity. You could return the water via a manifold around the perimeter of the tank, or you could plumb the return to oscillating units, such as Sea Swirls, or you could use a SCWD for random water movement. Alternatively, you could employ external Powerheads, like Tunze Turbelles or Geminis, for supplemental water movement. Lighting would be a couple of good 150 watt HQI metal halide pendants, such as the Sunlight Supply Reef Optix III's. You could use 150w Iwasaki "50,000k" bulbs (actually closer to a 14,000k-15,000k), and no fluorescent supplementation would be required, IMO. Man, I could go on and on into limitless other details, but that takes all of the fun out of process. I think you get the general concept that I'd use: Good water volume, exceptional nutrient export mechanisms and natural food production capability, potentially strong (but adjustable) chaotic water movement, and high intensity lighting (that still is aesthetically pleasing). All this stuff is still very simple, by modern reef standards. That's my vision...Obviously, you can be successful without all of my specific recommendations, but the concepts are all useful, IMO. Hope this helps! Good luck! Regards, Scott F> Protein Skimmer and Filtration for a 25 gallon tank 1/30/04 Hello! Many thanks for all of the dedicated crew members! My question: I have a 25 gallon tank with live rock and some small corals. I have one small maroon clown, a flame scallop that is somehow living well (phyto, micro-vert), a tiny crab and a tiny snail. I have a regular wheel filter. My water quality is always great, water changes once a week (1/5 of water) <Wow! 20% weekly water changes. One of the joys of small tanks! With such a good water change regime, I would not worry about a skimmer unless you wish to change less water. I would probably go with out the wheel filter all together, but be sure to replace the current it provides.> The more I read about protein skimming the more confused I get. I can invest in one, but which one for my small tank? Any brands you would recommend? <Another joy of smaller tanks is that you can choose from several smaller skimmers that will do an outstanding job. CPR BakPak, Aqua-C Remora and Red Sea Prism or Prism pro can all be recommended.> Also, should I buy a better filter? Like a canister? <As above, I would remove the wheel filter and avoid a canister filter except for specific use like occasional carbon usage or for "polishing" the water after things get "stirred up". Such filters tend to be highly aerobic and promote Nitrate accumulation.> Thank you so much for your advice and this website!! Sincerely, Justine <Always a pleasure! Best regards. Adam> Gobies in a Nano Hello crew members <Hello! Ryan with you> I have a 20 gallon long and I would like to add a few real small gobies. <Gotcha> Can all different species in the goby family live together or will they fight. <Likely fight in this small a space> Would they fight with a blenny too? <Perhaps> I thought that since they were so small they would be good for a nano tank and like 4 or 5 of them would not be a big bioload if you stay on top of water changes. <Most successful nano-reefers I know stick to one species per tank. In such small confines, it's difficult to contain aggression, and weaker fish have less coverage in which to hide. 2 Gobies of the same species would be my selection. Ryan> Small Tank With Big Lights! I have a 26 gallon bowfront mini reef set up. The tank is 24 inches wide 15 inches front to back and 24 INCHES DEEP!! <Sounds pretty cool! Lots of aquascaping possibilities!> Currently I have one Custom Sea Life 24 inch 65 watt smart lamp/ half 10,000k daylight and half actinic bulb. Is this enough light to reach the bottom of the tank? <Probably pushing the capabilities to the limit for this light...> The light doesn't seem all too powerful. The LFS sold me this light and said it would be fine for a mini reef. <It is, but not ideal for a deeper tank> The space I have left if I were to keep the smart light is 10 inches by 5 inches and I was wondering if I could fit a metal halide there. <Possibly a retrofit halide, or maybe one of the smaller pendants, like a PFO Mini or a Sunlight Supply Reef Optix III. On the other hand, you need to be concerned about properly ventilating the lights. They can impart a lot of heat into the tank and into your hood. I'd check some of the online carriers for exact specifications> Or should I do away with the Smart Light and go with something else... Please, any help would be greatly appreciated. Also what size metal halide would I even use ? Thank You. Anthony Pastorelli <Well, Anthony, if you are inclined to use halide, you may want to limit your choice to a 150 watt bulb. It also depends upon the animals that you intend to keep. You could very easily "fry" many light sensitive animals with these lights, although they should work well in a 24 inch deep tank. Hope this helps. Regards, Scott F.> NYC Fireman Small Tank With Big Lights! (Cont'd.) Hi again, sorry to bother you again but wanted to put all the info and questions into one email. <No problem..> Here goes. I have a 26 gallon bow front, 24 inches wide 15 inches front to back and about 23 inches tall. I have one aqua-medic starlight 150 watt 10,000 K Aqualine. Is this Brand of bulb and size of fixture Blue enough to support coralline algae growth and to support the lives of possibly any type of coral or clam? <Well, it would be irresponsible of me to say that any bulb can grow every coral out there, but the Aqualine 10K is an outstanding bulb, quite capable of growing many corals, and coralline algae as well.> And how far should it be for optimal performance? I do not have room for any other lamp or fixture , are actinics needed for such life support? (e.g.. coralline-clams-etc.) and because that I want to only keep the light on for about 6- 8 hours a day is this sufficient? <Personally, I like to keep the bulb about 6 inches off the water surface. Actinics are not needed; they do add an interesting appearance to the aquarium, however...BTW- I like a 10-12 hour photoperiod...> Should I install a mini moonlight? Do the corals and such NEED a 10 to 14 hour photo period? Or will they do just fine with only the MH coming on and going off? <You don't need a moonlight, but they are pretty cool to see!> Thank you so much....I'd be lost without you guys...LFS is C%$P!!! <Well, we're glad to be here for you...Do support your LFS whenever possible, however. Regards, Scott F.> A Few Questions (He Says..) >I have a few Questions that I could not find the answers to in the FAQ's. >>Ok, this explains why I'm reading this.. ;) >I set up a 7 gallon "nano" about 13 months ago. I found you guys 3 months later. Thanks to you I Upgraded my lighting to a 32watt PC light, found the importance of water changes, and have been able to have a pretty good survivability rate. In my 7 gallon for 12 months I have successfully kept 1 very large 12" diameter anemone. It's by far the center piece of my tank. >>Oh my, this news makes me rather uncomfortable, as the anemones I can think of that reach that size get MUCH larger, and should be being housed by themselves. However, let's deal with the situation at hand. >I had it under an 11 watt lamp for about 6 weeks before I found you guys and upgraded the lighting. >>The anemone thanks us all.. I do hope that you know what species you're keeping and its requirements. I also hope you're feeding it. >Now for the last 12 months he has been great, other livestock is as follows, 3 small clowns, 2 rocks with Ricordea mushrooms, a 5" tall, with 7" diameter crown toadstool leather, assorted hermits and snails. >>Oh my.. know that the fish will need culling when they begin growing. Expect this to be necessary when two of the three begin showing aggression towards the third. >Again this is a 7 gallon bow front, 32 watt SmartLight, Emperor 280 filter, no skimmer, but I do water changes about every 10 days to 2 weeks. >>My friend, with what you have going, this system would be doing better to have at LEAST weekly water changes, if not actually every three to five days. >I actually had a mandarin in this tank that I got to finally eat flake food, he lived 10 months, only to jump out of the tank and I found him on the floor dead when I woke up in the morning. I was devastated that I had a mandarin fat from brine and flake die because he jumped out. >>Don't let it upset you too much, his nutrition would have ensured an early death from poor nutrition, which may ultimately be far more difficult to watch. Please research brine shrimp, it is the "Pringles" of the aquatic world and is quite nutritionally deficit. Mandarins are really only suited for LARGE systems, holding on the order of 100lbs.+. They require a real variety of microfaunal life, as well. >Anyway, I received a 35 gallon tank for xmas, I want to upgrade. >>Fantastic! >With all the success I have had with the anemone in the 7 gallon, I am hesitant to take him out, what is the best way to transfer him? Same acclimation as from LFS? >>Yes, same acclimation, assuming you can free it from the 7 gallon. Also, please do some research on anemones, know that they are incredibly long-lived, and one year in captivity is barely a drop in the lifespan bucket. If you wish to move the anemone to the 35 gallon (a good idea - especially if you make the seven gallon a refugium), do be very careful in freeing it from any rock, etc. >I plan on buying either a 150watt Halide set up, or 175 watt. >>Way overkill for a 35 gallon if set too close. Go with the 150 and use a pendant setup that you can set a bit further away, and lower as necessary. However, I feel that power compact fluorescents would be suitable in such a setup as well. >I currently have 2 32watt SmartLamp Powercompacts with dual 10k and actinic lights. Should I use these as well as the halides? or should I not get the halides, and buy a PC Quad? I think 96 watt to go with the two 32 watt PC's I already have... >>Personally, I like this second option best. Much less chance of overheating and burning animals in my opinion. >Cost is about the same either way. Also I have 2 Emperor 280 filters, should I use both or just one? >>If that's the only filtration you can achieve, use both. Consider setting up that 7 gallon as a 'fuge! >And between a BakPak 2. and a Prism skimmer which Hang On model is best? >>CPR ALL THE WAY, BABY! Don't even waste your time or money on the Prizm, too many folks have communicated their dissatisfaction with this device. >sorry for all the questions but I figured one long one was better than 4-5 shorties. >>Heh.. ok. No worries, mate. >One last question, How long should I let the new tank "cure" before adding my livestock? I figured I would put the lights, sand 4" sand bed activated with my current sand, and a filter then skimmer to start. I was figuring 3-4 weeks? Oh at any given time when I feed I can find in excess of 25 small to quite large 1/4" bristle worms. >>These animals are necessary to handle excess detritus and food. If you don't want them, you'll have to address these issues with better filtration and more frequent water changes. As for "curing", this is done with live rock. If you mean "cycling", then set up you tank as you outlined, then take a small bit of raw shrimp, fish, krill, or similar, put it in a piece of old nylon hosiery, set it in the tank and let it rot. Then, start testing for ammonia. Once that goes up, add tests for nitrite, when that goes up start adding the tests for nitrate. Once ammonia (first to drop) and nitrite (second to drop) hit zero, you know you've got a cycled tank. >They don't seem to be harming anything, but there are a bunch in such a small system, When I pull out the live rock 10lbs or so, should I try and catch the larger ones? or just let them be? >>I would let them be and understand why they're present. >is there a natural predator I can buy to keep the numbers down? >>Yes, but you don't really want this animal in a reef tank, especially a nano (35 is still considered "nano" in many circles). >thanks again... sorry about the size of this letter. Aaron >>You're welcome, and no worries. Please, find out what kind of anemone you have so we can ensure you have it for many, many, MANY years to come. Marina
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