 |
|
| Home | Marine Aquariums |
Freshwater Aquariums |
Planted Aquariums |
Brackish Systems |
Ponds,
lakes & fountains |
Turtles & Amphibians |
Aquatic Business |
Aquatic Science |
Ask the WWM Crew a Question |
| Please visit our Sponsors | ||||
Marine Filtration - 03/08/2006 Hello I am a huge fan of your website. <Glad you like it.> My question is this, I am setting up a 10 gallon nano reef. I am using live rock and live sand with powerheads as the main filtration, and of course weekly/bi-weekly 10% water changes. <Ok.> Is it ok to use a bio wheel with this filtration? <Sure, but I'd rather see a skimmer.> My tank is now cycling and my ammonia is almost off the charts. Is this bad for everything that may be hitchhiking on my LR? <Bad for any aquatic life, yes.> I worried that the ammonia might kill off everything. <I'd do a partial water change if it is this bad. Do read up on the filtration/biofiltration FAQ's already posted on WWM.> Thanks for taking the time to help me. :) <Much that you should read to further help yourself. Enjoy. - Josh> Planning a new nano reef 2/13/06 Hi Crew! My interest in starting a 24g nano reef aquarium has peaked and I have just a couple of questions, but first I'd like to sincerely thank you for your site and it's help in allowing me to keep a healthy 55g FO setup see pics]. Best advise I have received, use a quarantine tank!!! <Yes> I plan on purchasing a Current 24g AquaPod aquarium. My question is regarding filtration. Is it necessary to use any filtration other than the live rock with diligent weekly water changes in this size nano? <Mmm, well... some folks can/will have success with such an approach, but the majority... likely most all, will have real troubles w/o adding to this... a skimmer, refugium...> Current also sells a small nano skimmer. Do you have any experience with them? <I do not. Would ask on the various BB's re> Lastly, I have been reading up on calcium and alkalinity, which appears will be my biggest challenge. Kent sells a Part A & B supplement for this purpose. <Look to Stark's "B-Ionic" instead> The daily dosing described sounds like a drag. Would you recommend this product or another means of maintaining proper calcium levels and buffering capacity. As always thank you! <Mmm, much to say, discuss here. Best for you to study what is posted on WWM re... and then to ask more pointed questions. At the best you will not have to "fool" with such... due to proper stocking, feeding, regular water changes... Bob Fenner> Nano Stocking/Filtration...Problems - 01/01/06 Hey crew, <<Hey Eric>> I picked up a used 12g cube setup from someone who was moving. It was up and running for a year, though the guy didn't do any water changes! <<Awful...and inexcusable, specially in a system this size!>> I've kept the setup he had as far as the filtration goes: sponge and Caulerpa in the first section, bioballs, carbon bag in the second, and another bag (I'm not sure what it is) in the third. It has one true percula, one peppermint and one blood cleaner shrimp, margarita snails, nassirus? <<Nassarius>> snails and hermits, xenia, a purple tip anemone, some other unidentified inverts, bubble coral and 2 brain corals. Though I tried to retain as much of the original water as possible, the open brain didn't make it. <<Not surprised>> The water was ok for a couple of weeks, including some 10% changes spread out over a week, but recently the other open brain died and I've noticed film buildup on the surface. I did some a 10% change today and will do another one tomorrow. The water parameters as of yesterday were: ammonia - 0, pH - 8.1, nitrite - 0, nitrate 10 (though since there is no 0 reading in the test kit it could be less than 10 and I wouldn't know it) <<Get a different/better test kit.>> and calcium 350 (I added some today). The film looks almost like a green oil slick. <<I would make sure to put small amount of fresh carbon (changed weekly) in that second filter chamber and remove the "unknown" bag of material from the third and replace with Poly-Filter.>> I realized that the powerhead in the tank (not the filter one) was clogged with a snail. When I removed that and the circulation picked up, the film broke up for a day but returned. What is causing the film? <<Hard to say for sure at this point.>> Is this normal? Is my tank possibly recycling due to the move? <<A real possibility.>> The other inhabitants all look healthy. I only feed once or twice over a day at most, and only a few flakes or a cube of frozen food at a time and I sometimes skip a day. <<Best to feed daily.>> I also add some phytoplankton or reef solution once a week as per instructions. <<I would stop this...a possible source of pollution.>> I was wondering if maybe I should change the filtration around. Have you seen anyone getting a skimmer or using other filtration on these cubes with any success? <<Finding/fitting a skimmer to this size tank can be a challenge. A weekly 20% water change is more practical in my opinion.>> Do you have any suggestions as to what I should do? <<Maintaining these small system can be problematic, things goes sour very fast in such a small volume of water. But for this tank I recommend you add a few pounds of live rock (6-8) and remove the sponge and bio-balls from the filter (give it about three weeks after adding the rock before removing). Adding another small powerhead for circulation will likely benefit too.>> I also have an ID question to which I haven't been able to find an answer. <<ok>> I noticed today a green creature, which looks like an annelid of some sort. It is about 2-3 inches, with a pointed end and what looks like a the tip of an elephant trunk at the other. It has remained curled up though it twitches when it gets touched by a crab or shrimp. It is neon green, like an inchworm, so at first I thought it was on of the green tube worms out of its tube but it doesn't have any tentacles or bristles. My camera is in repair so I can't send a photo. Do you have an idea of what this creature might be? <<Impossible to say, though aside from the color, if I were to take a stab I would say do a search on 'peanut worm' and see what you find.>> Lastly, do you think I can safely fit another fish or shrimp in this tank? If so, do you have any recommendations of something that would be forgiving and interesting? <<I would not add anything else to this tank until you get it stabilized.>> Thanks, Eric <<Regards, EricR>> Overflow from a mini-reef 12/14/05 Hi
guys/gals. I'm setting up a small 16 gallon mini-reef
tank to put on my desk and have a question for you. This is
a small bow front tank to which I plan to add overflows. My plan is to
drill dual 1/2 inch holes <RMF would make these a minimum of 3/4
inch> (one in each corner) in the back glass and attach PVC
"Ls" to each with an enlarged fence atop. The
bottom of the tank is tempered or I would drill there. My
question is this: from your experience, does it matter how deep
(distance from the top of the tank to the center of the hole) these
holes are drilled? Obviously, one would want to leave room for the pvc
L and enlarged fence piece, but for aesthetics, I would like the hole
to be as close to the top as possible so you don't see the pipe run
the whole depth of the tank. Or in other words, the pipe
would enter from about 4 inches (or so) below the water surface and
then make a 90 degree up into the larger diameter fence. Is there any
disadvantage to this as opposed to drilling the hole near the bottom of
the back wall with a longer section of pipe between the fence and
L? My other tank is a reef ready 100gal so I didn't have
these problems. <There is no advantage to having a longer pipe just
to bring the water from the surface down to a low-positioned drain
hole. You can drill as close to the top as structural/glass integrity
will allow and your plumbing/elbows will accommodate.> Thanks for
the advice and for all the other help I have gotten from your site
throughout the years. <Always a pleasure. -Zo>
Nano Reef Stocking/Filtration 10/30/05 Hi there WWM Crew <Hey Paul!> I would firstly like to thank you for what is, in my humble opinion, quite possibly the most helpful and exhaustive resource on the web. Thank you for taking the time to provide it. I have thoroughly enjoyed browsing through the various posts, and have taken heart, that I am not the only one prone to making mistakes. <Thank you for such encouraging words.> It has been a few years since I was last in the hobby and I am amazed at the changes that have taken place. <Yes the hobby is forever advancing.> After a recent visit to the London Aquarium, I decided, much to my wife's annoyance to start up with the hobby again (playing "fast and loose" with the word hobby here). <Hmm sounds like my mothers reaction to my fathers sailing expeditions.> I decided to set a "Nano" type system. The tank is fairy small, around 2ft long and 1.5 ft high and wide (the size being dictated by matrimonial compromise). While not large, I have seen smaller systems in various stores I have visited. I have had the tank up for about 2 months and it is going well. It is piled with as much live rock as can be fit into the tank (I am unsure of the exact weight) and has layer of live sand about 2 inches thick. <2 inches is no mans land for a sand bed, you either need to go 1" or less for aesthetic purposes or 4"+ for the effects of a DSB, anything in between is a nutrient sink.> After some research I decided to use "Live" water for the tank, which I buy from my LFS. I do around 3-4 water changes a month, and regularly top up with RO water, which I get from a filter I installed at home. <If you can best to do at least bi-weekly H2O changes on a nano with bi-weekly being better.> I use an Aquamedic hang on protein skimmer with a Bio wheel. And three smallish power heads. I also have a single bulb Metal Halide light and ballast. <Lots oh heat huh? Hope you have some fans and watch evaporation closely.> The tank is currently stocked with one small yellow clown goby (2 inches), <Good choice.> a very young yellow tang (about 2 inches long, rescued from a child who was sold a small system by an unscrupulous dealer), <That's unfortunate, I'm glad you rescued him but I hope you are aware of the necessary quarters for such a fish.> 4 sexy shrimp, 2 percula clowns (about 2 inches, also rescued), a small bubble anemone (also rescued), <All this rescuing, aren't you a nice guy?> 2 small trumpet or candy cane corals (1, and 4 inches respectively), and small rock covered with button polyps. The stock is doing well, all eating and no signs of aggression or disease etc. All levels in the tank are well within the recommended limits. <Good.> My question is this: I was told (much to my surprise) by the sales man at my LFS, that filtration for the tank was not an issue at the moment, as the tank was not that fully stocked. <That's a surprising statement to say the least, a nano being quite unstable needs lots of filtration, water flow, protein skimmer and you DO have a heavy load.> I did not expect to have the amount of stock I do now, but I couldn't let the rescued stock remain in the gold fish bowl - yes you did read right - that they were sold in. <Horrendous.> I would like to setup a more effective filtration system for the tank. I would like to know what your recommendations are. I have been researching various systems, from a small sump system using a hang on overflow (the tank was not drilled), buying a new tank (of the same size) and having it drilled, using a hang on filter, or using a canister filter. Space is a premium and whatever solution I eventually decide to use, it will have to fit in the cabinet below the tank. I have read the various FAQ section on you site, but as far as I can see, each has its positives and negatives. <If you can add a sump underneath that would be the best way to go, as it would add to your total water volume which would increase your margin of error in an o-so-delicate nano. Possibly include a refugium. As for more efficient filtration, perhaps a larger skimmer like an Aqua-C, in sump urchin. Not sure if they have those across the pond. Not much argument there in comparison to a canister filter, a sump/refugium is far superior in my opinion. If possible a drilled overflow is the best, more reliable than a hang on.>> I am tending toward the sump system, mainly because that is what I am used to using (it would also free up space in the tank, taken up by the skimmers pump, heater and power heads etc). <Yes much more aesthetically pleasing.> I understand that this is not an easy question to answer, but your help in this regard would be much appreciated. <See here for some more nano ideas Paul: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm .> Thank you. Paul <Welcome, Adam J.> Nano Reef Lighting 10/8/05 Bob <No, not Bob, Adam J with you tonight.> I switched from P.C.'s (96 watt) to a Jebo Odyssea which has a single150 watt double ended Metal Halide (HQI) in the center with 2, 18 watt P.C's on the sides for a total of 186 watts. I have positioned it 5" over the tank. <Too low, try at least 8" maybe more.> I have a fairly large hammer coral that is directly under the halide maybe 5" under the surface. The rest of the tank is live rock mushroom, polyps, leather corals etc. Is this a good set-up? <There are other brands I would rather use, but that's just personal opinion. To be honest for what animals you are keep the PC you had would have been sufficient. Though the MH will allow to keep other shallow water organisms should you choose.> It has been up for 10 days and things look happy. <Did you acclimate the animals to the new light or just switch? And this is a lot of light for this volume of aquarium. Make sure to keep up on temperature stability and evaporation.> Thanks Gregg <Adam J.> Filtration for 12 gal. nano 8/25/05 Hi gang: <Hello Chuck> Like a lot of people (judging by the stacks of cubes at several LFS) I was intrigued enough to try a 12 gal. JBJ nanocube. I mostly do saltwater. . . but use my 'cube' for a freshwater tank heavily stocked with plants. . . lightly stocked with a few cardinals. I really like the tank. . . but would like to know if anybody sells (or has figured out a way to jerry-rig) some conventional filtration onto this system? Quite a challenge, given the 'closed' nature of it. I figured after a while JBJ would offer something. . . but so far all I've seen is the bigger 24 gal. cube, with more lighting. <Might want to check Drs Foster & Smith. I believe they sell a combination light hood with built in bio wheel filtration. James (Salty Dog)> Chuck Clown colour and filtration 7/30/05 Hi there WWM crew! <Hello Matt> Firstly, stellar job on your website. Stocked to the rim with golden advice, and always a pleasure to read. I have two questions, totally unrelated to one another. I have searched the web for answers to these, one of which I have found heavily contradicting info, the other zip. So, I thought I'd milk the teats of your mind and hope you gurus can shed some light :) <Slurp> Here are my specs to give you some background: 24 gallon (approx 18"x18"x18") tank just over one month old. 30 lbs of live rock. Two 36 watt high compact fluorescent lights (50/50 actinic). Saline Solutions 40 hang-on skimmer (counter-current airstone type). pH = 8.2, Ca = 450, Nitrite = 0, Nitrate = 0.2, Ammonia = 0, Gravity = 1.025, Temp = 83, Phosphate = 0.1, Alkalinity = 'High' (Red Sea test kit unfortunately doesn't give me a numerical reading). <Mmm, you might want to read over re synthetic salt mix brands...> I conduct weekly water changes of 10%. And twice a week I add Seachem Reef Calcium. <I would wait on the changes, supplements... for another month or so> On one occasion I added rotifers and phytoplankton. My livestock is: 1 Turbo snail, 4 Astrea snails, 2 Nassarius snails, 3 blue-legged hermits, 1 red legged-hermit, a brown brittle star, a Lysmata amboinensis cleaner shrimp, and a percula clown. I also just recently added a small frag of green daisy/clove polyps, to test my conditions. They seem to be doing well as they have grown about 5 new stalks in one week. My live rock when purchased was brown, and now it is nicely coated in purple and green coralline, and loads of life in every cranny. My plans are to add 1-2 more small fish, and some soft and LPS corals. <All in a 24 gallon system...> My first question relates to my filtration. My tank is a Nanocube DX. Its design includes an existing filter in the back housing that contains a large 16" sponge pad, ceramic rings, bio balls, and active carbon. The intake is an overflow that is governed by a power jet on the other end that provides a flow rate of 290 GPH. I recently added my skimmer (removes some nice gunk on an every other day basis) and was advised by a friend to remove the sponge pad, ceramic rings and bio balls. <I would also wait another month for this change... and not add any more livestock for at least this period of time> Leave the carbon in and place live rock in the chambers. To which I did. (slowly adding live rock, so not done this part yet). All is well so far, but I have read info on websites, including here, that advises people of similar tank sizes that they should add a hang-on filter when just using a skimmer. <Yes> I'm wondering if you feel my current setup is fine, or if I should revert back to the mechanical/chemical filtration the tank came with, while also keeping my skimmer going? <I would> Second question concerns my clown. When purchased he was a rich orange through and through. But as the weeks have unfolded, he has begun to darken. Starting at the top spinal area and it is evenly working its way down his body. <Stress... from the conditions, transitions of a new system> A dark brown colour. Smooth in transition, not splotchy. He seems in good spirits, curious and explorative. I'm wondering if this is a concern that needs to be dealt with, or if it is natural, and if so will it return to orange one day? Thanks so much for your time. And cheers to the whole crew at WWM! Matt <Thank you for writing so clearly, completely. Your clown will revert to brilliant orange with good care, nutrition and time. Bob Fenner> 20 ga. Filtration & Stock Hello, <Hi there> I kept a 20ga saltwater tank several years ago, but took it down when I moved out of state. At that time, filtration consisted of an undergravel powered by the intake of a Skilter 250 that hung on the back (the Skilter's intake tube was inserted into the undergravel lift tube). <We've come a long way baby> I started this tank up again a few weeks ago in my new home and would appreciate some feedback. <I'd look around re gear upgrades... get a bigger tank...> I've added a Marineland Eclipse2 hood this time (cartridge/bio-wheel setup), and am also running the undergravel with a strong powerhead for additional filtration and aeration. I have not employed the Skilter this time because the tank's new position is such that it can be viewed from all four sides, hence I am trying to avoid "hang on" parts. <Mmm, might add a sump/refugium, remote a/the skimmer there...> The tank is fish-only and contains no live rock. The only inhabitants at this time are a tiny yellow-tail damsel and a flame angel. <Too small a volume for the latter> I anticipate eventually adding one, maybe two more small fish at most. Possible future inhabitants might be a six-line wrasse, either a bicolor or a purple Pseudochromis, or perhaps some type of clown (although I am reluctant to subject most of the little guys to life without an anemone). <Mmm... too much to say that has already been written, recorded on our root web here... I would read before making these additions... assertions> I would very much appreciate your feedback regarding both my filter system and the potential additions to my community tank. <UG filtration can work, as can small (less than forty gallons, my arbitrary number) systems... but Flame Angels, more than one damsel... not a good bet. Do read over on WWM re the possibility of adding external gallonage at least, keep in mind maybe making the 20 itself into this to service a larger tank. Welcome back to the hobby. Bob Fenner> By the way, can you tell me the true name for the yellow-tail damsel? I've seen various sources call it Chromis xanthurus, Chrysiptera parasema, and Chrysiptera hemicyanea. Which is correct? <Please see here: http://wetwebmedia.com/chrysiptera.htm. Chrysiptera cyanea is by a large margin the most common "Blue Damsel", though other Blue (Chromis viridis principally) are sold as such. C. parasema is the most common "Yellow Tail Blue Damsel", though there are other species sold as such regionally, seasonally... C. hemicyanea is rarely offered in the trade.> 20 Gallon Nano Advice... Hello Crew, Long time since I've sent an email. I have been running a 90 gallon reef tank now for a little over a year with a lot of success (thanks to you guys/gals and the LFS) but have unfortunately needed to get rid of it do to a long distance move. I still have the equipment but am hesitant to set it up again until I have purchased a home. So in the mean time I was thinking of starting a 20 g Nano Reef. I have read what I could and have become very confused as to the likes and dislikes as compared to their larger counterparts. I have purchased a 1x36 watt VHO 50/50 from the return of the 'old' inhabitants from the 90 gallon. Would this be plenty for most LPS hard corals and soft corals or would the addition of 1 x 55 watt PC be required? I know vague question but I never really delved too much into corals in my time as a reef keeper. I kept 3 candy canes, 1 yellow leather, 1 Christmas tree, 1 hammer head, 1 yellow tipped torch coral in my 90 gallon with a 4 x 65 (2 actinics) watt VHO lighting system. I know the watts per gallon don't match up, but it is such a small tank that the lux that reach the base of the tank in the nano should be much the same as that of the 90 gallon. Lighting aside, I have also been recommended to use an Aqua C Remora skimmer but wouldn't this be overkill on a 20 gallon? Filtration I was just going to us an over the edge filter for larger particles. Powerheads, I looked at the Mini-jet 404 with adjustable flow. I would use 2 and point them from opposite corners at the front/center glass to create a sort of random turbulent flow. I was planning on using a 50 watt heater (don't remember brand name) but after some reading may go with a 100 watt to help reduce temp fluctuations. Aside from equipment I have looked into using an actual sand bed this time, as opposed to aragonite crushed coral. Like the look of that better, but should I look at doing a deep sand bed of 5" or so or would 1-2" be ok in this size? Inhabitants I hadn't really thought about but obviously small fish 2 at absolute most! 1 clown of some sort and some other small fish, blenny if tank is large enough (so much character these guys). I am more worried about a cleaning crew though, some turbo or Astrea snails, blue leg hermits, possibly zebra hermits. Would like to have a shrimp but am worried about the waste they produce. Would 1 cleaner shrimp be ok in a tank this size? I don't think I have any more questions....hope not anyways. I've been looking into this for a while and have narrowed my equipment down but can't seem to find a reliable resource to go to in person!! So email it is! I hope I didn't bog you down with this overwhelming email! Thank you so much in advance, Todd Hawman >>>Greetings Todd, There is no such thing as overkill where a skimmer is concerned, and frankly you don't need one on a tank that small. The reason is that the tank is small enough that the ease of water changes negates the "need" for a skimmer. If you have one, all the better but keep up with your water changes - maybe 4 gallons every two weeks. As far as lighting, I'd say you're coming up a bit short in that department, even considering the species mentioned. I'd put at least a 64 watt PC on that tank. Remember, you're losing a lot of PAR with one of the bulbs being an actinic. At least purchase another PC as you mentioned, or add another identical fixture and double them up. 2" of fine sand works great. As far as cleanup crew, don't go nuts with the hermits. They are highly predatory, and kill snails. They also eat EVERYTHING on the rocks, so you will not have as many sponges, tubeworms, limpets, etc in your tank. However if you just like the hermits for their own sake, add as many as you want. Just be aware they are hard on snails. For that tank, two small scarlet hermits is plenty for clean-up crew purposes. The snails are much more important, and the larger turbo species do a much better job than the Astreas IMO. A cleaner shrimp, or even a few should do just fine in your tank! Good luck! Jim <<< - Plenum in 29 Gallon Mini Reef - My new 29 g tank and stand will be in this week! I purchased a 2x65 w pc retro kit (one 10,000k & one actinic). I have a BakPak skimmer (I plan on adding a hang-on refugium in the near future also). I constructed a plenum this weekend using the plans from the GARF web-site (eggcrate sitting on 1 inch PVC covered with nylon screen). I have a couple questions about the plenum. I planned on using 100% live sand (3-4 inches) instead of the suggested substrate on the GARF site. Will this be a problem? <Probably.> Will the sand stay on top of the nylon screen or will it eventually work its way down into the plenum? <It will work its way down in time.> Could I, or should I use a thin layer of crushed coral directly on top of the plenum underneath the sand bed? <Yes.> The DIY plans call for a second layer of screen to be placed in the middle of the sand bed to avoid disturbance to the system. <Correct.> Is this second layer of screen necessary in your opinion? <Yes.> Also I plan on adding approximately 30 lbs of live rock. Should I add the rock and sand at the same time? <Yes.> Thanks for your help. I'm trying to get all the help I can to avoid too many alterations in the future. <Honestly, I'd skip the plenum in your case - you just don't have enough volume in the tank to sacrifice this space, and because of the small size of this tank is going to give a net effect of almost zero. I think you'll have more problems than solutions with this setup. Would be better off just doing a deep sand bed with live sand and use the live rock.> Thanks for maintaining the great site. <Cheers, J -- > Filtration for a 10 gal reef tank Hello, I have a 10 gall reef tank and I'm running it with a Skilter 250. And I would like to up grade to a emperor 280 system!!! Do you guys think It's to much filtration for such a small tank? << You can't have too much filtration. I think it is a good addition. >> Thanks << Blundell >> Filtration Options For A Small Tank Hello, <Hey there! Scott F. at the keyboard!> I have a 29 gallon tank setup which is currently not running due to problems with my sump. I have a 15 gallon tank for the sump, with a CPR overflow feeding it. I haven't had much success with plumbing issues, for instance large amounts of air bubbles flowing into the sump, possibly due to the crashing of the water or to the two 90 degree elbows in the line. <Very good possibilities. Minor modifications, or the installation of a few baffles in the sumps should help!> Also, there isn't much room to run the overflow and two return lines from a SCWD wave maker. <Space is always a problem....I can relate!> I basically want to give up on this idea and just go to a simple canister filter idea. I really like the Lifegard Aquarium Filter System because you can add to it and it seems as thought it would be practical for my size aquarium. I have been reading about it in your posts and it seems like you don't like these units at all, but most people have much bigger aquariums than mine. Would this system perform well on a 29 gallon aquarium? <I think it would be more than enough filtration for a tank of your size. Personally, in a 29, I'd use a good outside power filter if this was a freshwater system, or a simple canister filter, like one of the smaller Eheims, in a marine system. Pay rigorous attention to maintenance!> If not, please give me some other ideas other than a sump that would be sufficient. <As above.> One other thing, I would be loosing a small TUNZE skimmer due to no sump, but I would like to one day get a Remora or Remora Pro. <The Remora pro is a great skimmer, requiring little room behind the tank.> Your prompt response is greatly appreciated, thanks a bunch!! Aaron Ziegler <My pleasure, Aaron! Have fun with this little world! Regards, Scott F> What Filter on a Nano, Good morning crew, Have you guys heard about the Aqua tech filtration system? I'm working with a Skilter 250 right know and I don't know if this filter is good enough to be working in a 10 gall nano reef system I just started. I'm going to keep some nice looking things in there and want them to be healthy, so I don't know if I should up grade to another kind of filtration system. What do you think is the best system out there for nano reefs tanks? Thank you for your time >>>Hello Alex, Let me tell you, as an experienced nano keeper, skimmers are the LAST thing you need to concern yourself with, let alone upgrading if you already have one. All you need for a nano is live rock, and a small pump or power filter to circulate the water. Water changes are so easy on a nano, and so quick, the need for a skimmer is eliminated. So don't worry about it. If you already have one great, but don't feel the need to upgrade it. Cheers Jim<<< BioWheels on a reef tank? Hello, << Hello. >> I converted a 30G freshwater to Marine about 3-4 months ago. I have read mixed reviews about BioWheels WRT nitrate levels. I have no room for a refuge/sump with my stand, and as this is my first attempt with a marine tank I thought I would try to "keep the costs down" - or at least this is what I tell the wife. Currently the tank has an Emperor 800 BioWheel HOT filter, stuff full of "nitrate sponge, PhosGuard", 2 oz of activated carbon, floss, and of course the BioWheel. Of other things to note are the Prizm HOT protein skimmer, two older 450GPH power heads, 45lbs of live rock, roughly 20lbs of lava base rock, and 3-4" of a sand bed. Also have roughly 300W of CFL Actinic and 10000K VHO lighting. The tank is stocked with 1 flame hawkfish, 1 small decorator crab, 1 "chocolate chip" star, 1 maroon clown, 4-5 purple tip anemone and a few small hermits/snails. As far as the water quality is concerned, everything's looking pretty good with the exception of small nitrite/nitrate levels. I just yanked the BioWheel out of the emperor after reading reported Nitrate problems - just wanting to know if I should yank the entire power filter and just rely on protein skimmer/live rock? << I'd leave it in. I have one on my 29 gal tank. You can also easily convert these filters into hang on refugiums by simply putting a light over them. >> This is just hard for me to give up after using heavy filtration of my freshwater tanks, and continuing to rely on huge volumes of canister filtration on my larger freshwater tanks. << Keep it. >> Your guidance is much appreciated. Best Regards, Tom. << Blundell >> 20 gal with a refugium? I have a 20 gallon Nano reef tank with 40 lbs life sand and 35 lbs of live rock. I am currently using an Eheim wet/dry filter. I am looking to get rid of this unit and switch over to a hang on refugium. << Great idea. >> I am wondering if a fluidized bed filter would also be a good choice or would this provide increased nitrates as the wet/dry does? << I think the fluidized bed is unnecessary with the benefits of a refugium. >> If this would not be a good choice of additional filtration, what might be? My tank is fairly heavily stocked with fish and several corals. << Blundell >> Filtration for a 29 gal Hopefully my email about lighting has
been received. Another question as I plan for a 29 gallon reef. Should
I remove the BioWheel from the wet/dry Eclipse 3 filter? << I
like to leave them in. I think they help. >> I want
few fish and plenty of coral. I also have the same Eclipse 3 hood with
no filtration system, lighting only. Maybe a better idea to use the
Eclipse lighting and modify the hood for a HOT filter and protein
skimmer instead of using the whole Eclipse 3 shebang? << Yes, a
good idea. I took my filter off to add a hang on refugium,
so there are other options that will all work. >> Thanks! -LH
<< Blundell >> Filtration for a 30 gal Hello - I purchased an Oceanic Systems 30 gal cube aquarium, which I am going to make into a reef tank w/ live rock, some soft corals, six/seven fish, and maybe clam later on. << Maybe not that many fish, depending on what you buy. >> I have a Sea Star prism pendant w/ (1) 175 watt metal halide, (2) 32 watt blue actinics, and (1) LED blue moon light. I purchased the CPR Cyclone bio-filter system (CY192) and a continuous siphon overflow box (CS50) because I want to keep the water moving and clean/clear as possible. I would like to know your opinion on using this combo filter/protein skimmer system for my reef set-up, and your advice for alternative system if you don't think this is the best set-up. << That sounds great. However, the real question and best item for filtration is the amount of live rock. I'd be sure to have much live rock and deep sand in that system. >> Thank you, Karen << Blundell >> Nano Reef Filtration (10/25/04) Good evening crew <Steve Allen tonight. For future reference, please capitalize the proper noun "I" and the first letter of sentences. Also, please use apostrophes. We post all queries and replies on our site permanently and want them as readable as possible. Our volunteer crew will have a lot more time to answer queries if they don't have to proofread them. Not only that, some of us older presbyopics have a hard time reading unpunctuated text. Thanks.> I've just started a 10 gall reef nano!!! <cool> I got some beautiful aquacultured live rock to start the cycling of the tank, some of my water from my 55..... well, you know the rest and is up and running AWESOME!!! <indeed> But I have read that you don't need any mech filtration for a reef nano. Is that true??? <As with almost all issues in marine aquariology, there are differing opinions on this issue. I personally favor mechanical filtration in all applications. Why not get rid of as much gunk as possible before it breaks down into toxins?> Cause I have a Skilter 250 that I would like to use for my new system ,but I don't know if I should use it or not??? <Go for it.> Thank you for your time. <No problem. Enjoy your system.> Protein Skimmer and Filtration for a 25 gallon tank 1/30/04 Hello! Many thanks for all of the dedicated crew members! My question: I have a 25 gallon tank with live rock and some small corals. I have one small maroon clown, a flame scallop that is somehow living well (phyto, micro-vert), a tiny crab and a tiny snail. I have a regular wheel filter. My water quality is always great, water changes once a week (1/5 of water) <Wow! 20% weekly water changes. One of the joys of small tanks! With such a good water change regime, I would not worry about a skimmer unless you wish to change less water. I would probably go with out the wheel filter all together, but be sure to replace the current it provides.> The more I read about protein skimming the more confused I get. I can invest in one, but which one for my small tank? Any brands you would recommend? <Another joy of smaller tanks is that you can choose from several smaller skimmers that will do an outstanding job. CPR BakPak, Aqua-C Remora and Red Sea Prism or Prism pro can all be recommended.> Also, should I buy a better filter? Like a canister? <As above, I would remove the wheel filter and avoid a canister filter except for specific use like occasional carbon usage or for "polishing" the water after things get "stirred up". Such filters tend to be highly aerobic and promote Nitrate accumulation.> Thank you so much for your advice and this website!! Sincerely, Justine <Always a pleasure! Best regards. Adam> More Light? More Skimming! I have just recently got a 15 gallon tank started two weeks ago, this is what I have setup: 24" 55 Watt CP 24 lbs. Jakarta LR Glass top canopy Zoo-med PS-30 powerhead (190Lph rated) 2" Aragamax sandbed 13 hermit crabs 1 Emerald crab 1 pink something starfish 2 true Clownfishes Anyway, my problem with the tank is lighting, because the light is heating up my tank, so I had to buy legs for it, and after that it cured the problem, but now I feel like there's not enough light in there, never really was satisfied with the light, so I am planning to return the light and get a new one, these are the two that I am looking at, either a double tube 1-65Watt True Actinic 03 Blue and 1-65Watt 10,000K CFs, or same fixture 2-36Watts, both by Coralife. Is there such a thing as too much light? <Well, some of my SPS-geek friends would say a resounding "No!", but it is certainly possible to over-light some organisms> Would I be better off going for 72 Watts total? <I'd get the 65 watters, myself- or even 96 watters, if your system can accommodate 'em> I am planning to add quite a few corals in there later too, and if any room, anemones but not a must. <Best to keep anemones in a dedicated system designed for their specific needs> Coralline algae is starting to appear, but not too quick. Please let me know about your thoughts... :) <I'd go for the higher lighting, myself, especially if corals are in your future. Better to have too much light (and you probably will not) and dim it then to not have enough> Other than that, I am pretty unsure about the need for a protein skimmer? Does it prolong water changes only, or does it improve the general appearance of the water (weekly water changes now), coloration, and water quality? <Well, water changes should be a regular part of your maintenance routine, regardless of whether or not you have a skimmer. Skimmers are your "first line of defense" against declining water quality. They help remove organics from the water before they have a chance to accumulate and degrade the water conditions. I think that a skimmer is an essentially part of any marine system!> (ammonia 0, nitrate 5ppm, nitrite 0, pH 8.3 now) Thanks for your time and attention... Cheers!! Jagryes <My pleasure! Regards, Scott F> Filtration for small (20 Gallon) fish only tank 6/2/04 I have a 20 gallon fish only with live rock tank in the master bedroom. I've had a Biolife internal wet dry filter in it for about 10 years. I've never had any complaints, but that is probably more to do with the light bio load (1 royal Gramma, 1 pygmy angel) than with the Biolife. <agreed> Plus new water always comes from my 400 gallon reef. Regardless, the Biolife seems to have bought the farm and I am looking for a replacement. I want to keep the footprint and the maintenance to a minimum. What kind of filtration would you suggest? <live rock alone is sufficient for light bio-loads. A good old fashioned sponge filter (see those nifty "Hydro-sponges) is quite excellent and easily hidden if you need more support> Any particular brand/model that could fit easily into a 20 gallon? Thanks for your thoughts, Larry <best regards, Anthony> Circulation in a Nano Hello there! <Hi! Ryan Bowen with you> Thanks for such a wonderful site. <Glad you enjoy it> I have a 10 gallon eclipse tank that has been running for about six months. I am running the existing carbon filter and 32 oz. water changes about every 2-3 days. <Great> I have 1 (2-3 inch) mandarin goby (I've had him since the tank cycled, 1st fish), a small serpent star, 3 hermit crabs, a couple of cone-shaped snails, a bubblebee snail a recently added large featherduster, 5 small low light soft corals, 7-8 pounds of live rock, sand substrate, using Oceanic sea salt mix and keeping salinity/specific gravity around 1.025. I am have real trouble getting rid of a dark red filamentous algae, help? <Reduce nutrients, increase circulation> I have a feeling that this and some problems to come are due to a lack of circulation. Do you think that this could be the problem? What type of circulation device would you recommend for a tank this small? <Small, hang over the back closed loop would work well. See something like this: http://www.melevsreef.com/how_to_build.html. Any advice would be great. Thanks, Ryan Sloan <No problems! Good luck Ryan, Ryan> Can I fit a refugium on my 29 gal? Hello- I could not find an answer to this question in my archive search, so I would appreciate any thoughts. I have a 29 gal reef setup ( I know, bigger is better, but I live in a second floor apartment and my lease limits the amount of weight I can place in a given floor area) << I have the same size tank. >> with approx. 32 lbs. quality live rock. I have a bed of about 1 inch aragonite that was seeded with 7lbs of GARF grunge when the tank was set up. The system has a Bak-Pak Reef skimmer, a whisper 30 power filter for mechanical filtration, a 900 maxi-jet powerhead for additional water movement, and an appropriate heater. Lighting is a Current Orbit w/ 2 x 65 PC fluorescent ( actinic blue and daylight combo) + moonlight. << Good for FOWLR, but not that much light for a reef tank. >> The light sits up off the tank but the tank surface is covered with a glass canopy( I have 3 cats so this is a necessity or the aquarium would be cat hair city). I have read a lot about refugiums, and find myself interested in one from the point of view of more system stability. I have looked at the Aquafuge 12". The problem is the space limitation. Between the skimmer w/ preskimmer box, powerhead, heater, and mechanical filter, there is only about 10 inches left on the back. I considered placing a refugium on the side, but am afraid of the effect of removing the canopy on water quality ( cat hair slick--or even cat scuba from my boldest) My reading suggests so far that for a small system it is better to keep the mechanical filtration and forego the refugium. << I have this exact same debate with my tank. >> What are your thoughts? Is there any way to link any of the system components to make a refugium possible? << Definitely. I would consider using an overflow box to a refugium, and then adding your mechanical filtration (if you think you need it) to the refugium tank. Or here is another idea I like to use on my small aquariums. I have a powerhead in my tank pumping to my refugium, and my refugium is ABOVE my tank. Then, the water just runs from the refugium down a hose to my main tank. It takes up no space in on the back of the main tank. >> The tank is glass and I am not a mechanic so drilling , etc. seems a little much for me-but I might be willing to try a not-too -difficult DIY project. BTW, the system hasn't been set up that long and is almost finished cycling. Right now I have some feather dusters, assorted other worms, some polyp corals( mushrooms, zooxanthellae, etc.), hermits, snails, Caulerpa algae, and some other micro-critters of undetermined type-most of these came along with the live rock. .Everyone seems happy: corals, dusters, etc. are growing rapidly. I do a 10-15% water change and sand-bed stir weekly( I use reef crystals and supplement with 5 ml.s. Combisan once/week)-calcium is 480 ppm, alkalinity 4.8 meq/L, specific gravity at 1.024, there is still a trace of nitrate and ammonia.. Plans include a pair Percula clowns, a firefish, a yellow watchman goby, maybe some cleaner shrimp, more polyp/soft corals, and maybe a BTA if all goes well and I have success with the fish/corals. Four is probably the upper limit I will go on fish , since I don't want to crowd them. I'd appreciate any help/comments on 1) whether a refugium is really necessary and 2) since I would like one--is there anyway to rearrange things to accommodate it. . Thanks! << Try looking at other tanks of that size, to see what your friends have done, and what works for them. >> Denise << Blundell >> Refugium for a 7 gal nano tank I just finished fabricating a fuge for a 7gal nano-reef and wanted to know if it's worth my while to put a 6in deep sand bed in it. It's 17" long, 5" wide, and 14" deep. << Six inches is pretty deep. I'd say four inches is great. >> With a small surface area I know that a DSB won't do much but the tank is only 7gal. Would it have any benefit or should I just stick with some LR rubble and macro? << Oh I'd have a deep sand bed. I think it could really help out. It certainly wouldn't hurt (at least I don't see how). >> << Blundell >> Small marine tank filtration - 4/8/03 I've got a ten gal. hex. w/ a Fluval 404 hooked up to it. <A little overfiltered in my opinion but it will do the job> I want to start a marine tank...is that enough filtration?...<I have a better idea. I too, have a ten gallon mini reef aquarium. I use two small powerheads and a mini QuickFilter (I place carbon and or poly-filter media into) 4 inches of substrate and about 15 lbs of live rock. That is all the filtration I have.> I also have an undergravel filter I could put it in w/ a powerhead attached...is the canister filter enough? <Well, the canister filter will be fine (read more than enough) minus the sponges and other media. In my opinion, the 404 is just not needed or used in marine setups per se. Can be done, though> or do I need the UG filter <Don't use the UG filter.>...or is this a bad idea all together? <I would just use the live rock and thick sand bed and forget about the rest. If you do want to use the 404 then just pull the sponge and use poly filter, use a bag of carbon and go for it. See out links on filtration here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fw2mar.htm and here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm Read on my brother- Paul> New Tank Set-up >Hey There! >>Well hey there yourself! Marina this morning. >First let me commend you on an awesome and most helpful web site! >>Not exactly my doing, but thank you nonetheless. >Now to the fun part! I currently own a 12Gal. Nano tank. It's rather small so I decided to upgrade to what my apartment can withstand, a 37 gal. Oceanic cube. This is my concept so I was hoping you guys could critique me, and offer some advice. I drilled the tank with three holes two inches from the top of the tank. One hole is fitted with a 1in. bulkhead with an overflow strainer (which is the center hole), while the other two are serving as 3/4in. returns fitted with loc-lines. The overflow will drain down to a sump which will serve as a refugium. >>Excellent, Marina likes natural methodologies. :D >The sump/refugium will have a Myreefcreations calcium reactor, heater, & Ice Probe chiller. I plan on using a Mag 5 as a return pump. Does this make sense? Do you think it will work? >>Yep, makes sense, sounds good to me. >Also, I plan on using my sand bed in my 12gal. nano for the refugium to help seed the tank's sand. It's about 3-4in. of live sand, a mix of Tampa Bay live sand as well as Nature's Ocean live Biosand. The refugium is roughly the same size as the nano. I only plan on using about a 1-2in. sand bed in the main tank, for aesthetic reasons. Does that make sense or am I going about this the wrong way? >>It still makes sense, you wish to run the DSB in the 'fuge instead of the tank. Go with a 1" sand bed in the tank, maybe even less in this case. >I also am consider running without a skimmer, since I am planning on stocking the refugium heavy with nutrient sucking algae, but I have an Aqua C Remora skimmer just in case. Any help & advice will be greatly appreciated. >>Generally I advise folks to use foam fractionation, but in the case of utilization of a 'fuge w/DSB, and *especially* in situations where you may have many filter feeders, skimming may not be appropriate. The 'fuge w/DSB will handle the nutrient export/utilization issues you will encounter quite well, so I see no problems with your plan. In fact, it should work out pretty well. Best of luck, Oscar! Marina Mini Reefs Hello, did you see the Leonidas meteorite shower last night in the sky? <I missed it.> Just wondering, I see in some magazines tiny beauties under 50 liters, so, if I want to set up a reef tank of such size, do I need skimmer? <Yes, I would use one, albeit small. They are great for removing dissolved organics and maintaining dissolved oxygen levels. Both can be problematic in the confines of tiny aquaria.> Can I use only live rock and a filter hanging on back? <It is possible, but I believe you and most others will find yourself being more successful with a skimmer than without.> How often I have to perform water changes? basic elements? <As per any other aquarium.> I know there is a lot of questions an a little vague, but I will accept any answer leading me to understand the mini reef set up. <Please search the web for nano, mini, and micro reef pages. I know there are some good ones out there.> Thank you! Carlos <Best of luck to you! -Steven Pro> Mini Reef I have two very well established reef systems that use live rock and protein skimmers with no other filtration. I have had excellent success with these two tanks (a 30g and a 40g) for the last three years. I would like to try a 12 g mini reef. I was wondering if I might be ready for such a system. I imagine the only advice you'll give is to not overstock the system. I mean they sell them, so they must work successfully for some people, right? <The same can be said for many things. You can buy a Tiger cub for $300. Does that mean everyone can keep one in their backyard?> The mini reef has built in wet/dry and protein skimmer and power compact lighting. the only modification I might make is to remove the bio-balls from the wet-dry. What do you think? Are you just totally and adamantly opposed to these small systems? It seems from your website that everyone recommends against these systems. <That's because they are too small, inherently unstable, hard to keep cool (Doesn't tend to be a consideration in mid-October, but think August 1st. and 98F outside) and need almost constant maintenance to make up for their too small volume.> I'm dying to try one, though! My two established tanks have had no problems, zip, zilch, zero. Am I taking that much of a gamble? <It's your time and money, but IMO they would be better spent pushing the other end of the spectrum where the possibilities are better, are less work, stress and overall cost. Craig> Mini skimmer - 2/6/03 I have a 10 gal mini reef that has been set up for about a year.<Very cool, but very challenging even for veteran reefers. The key is daily water changes, quality water top off and minifilter with poly filter pads or carbon, in my experience. I too have a 10 gallon going on its second year.> I have been running a Skilter 250 and I hate it! <Not surprised, but have seen some fantastic tanks using Skilters. Check out Friar Tom Walsh's tanks. Holy smokes!!!!!http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tomwsmreefs.htm many others out there as well with some pretty amazing results. Have you tried some of the DIY additions for it?> I have a couple of polyps, a pin leather coral, a candy coral a couple of hermit crabs a couple of snails and a clown fish. <The clown fish may need a bigger tank shortly.> All of my readings are normal and I keep up with water changes. <Very glad to hear. Daily water changes make a big difference> I was thinking of switching to a whisper filter and some sort of skimmer, any suggestions? <Well, to be honest I do not have a skimmer on my 10gal. reef tank. Again, I make daily water changes. I always use aerated saltwater warmed to the same temperature as my tank. Use carbon and PolyFilter mix with an Eheim mini in tank powerhead/filter. Deep sand bed. It will be very difficult to find a skimmer that will be of the right size as to accommodate outside the tank. Check the forums, maybe someone out there has found something to be practical and useful. Good luck.> Everything that I have seen I would need to raise the tank some how off the stand to accommodate the height of the skimmer. <Yeah, that has been my problem as well. You could try lining up the back edge of the tank with the back edge of the stand and try a CPR Bak-Pac. I have this skimmer on a few of my other tanks and it works fairly well. Check it out at your LFS to see if you can accommodate it first.> I hope you can give me some insight. Thanks Chris <Hope I was of some help, Chris. Let me know what you end up doing. Paul - out> Small tank filtration Hello, <Hi Laura, Don here today> I just want to tell you that I am learning a lot from your article on setting up a marine aquarium, thanks for putting it up! For the longest time I have had this aquarium, first as a freshwater aquarium, along with my other freshwater aquariums, and dreamed of converting it to saltwater, only to be told at the fish store 'no way' can one use an undergravel, 'no way' can you NOT have a wet/dry and skimmer... over 5 years have gone by since I last even asked a fish store "expert", and I finally decided to peruse the internet for how to convert or set up a saltwater aquarium with a nice undergravel filter. Experts had told me undergravel was unacceptable in saltwater, and one guy at a fish store even told me that any saltwater fish WOULD die in an aquarium with an undergravel filter, and went to great lengths to explain why. I have been keeping fish since I was a small child, and it doesn't really make sense to me that saltwater fish keeping should be such an exacting, and expensive hobby. Nevertheless that is what I have always been told. Sites and articles like this one are opening up possibilities that I always suspected were there, but that the fish store experts would never tell me about! A couple of blue green Chromis in a fish-only tank is what I'm shooting for. The tank is an 18 tall, and I have a good powerhead (which has an aeration feature) and also a hang-on-the-back type filter. What I did for freshwater was hook one riser to the powerhead, and one riser to the hang-over-the-back-filter intake tube. As long as the gravel was vacuumed regularly (maybe once every 3-4 months since the load was pretty small) this system provided really OVER filtration. What I am planning to do is get coarse crushed coral for the substrate, set up a new undergravel plate with basically the same setup. Have you ever tried anything like that or has anyone you know had experience with that kind of set up? <Under gravel filters basically provide little or no benefit but DO provide an area to trap gunk that will cause problems in the long run (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate). I cannot recommend this setup. I would recommend a simple 1/2" oolithic (sugar fine) sand substrate (crushed coral will trap detritus as well) and maybe 8-10 lbs. of live rock. Use your powerheads for flow and the hang on filter keeping the media as clean as possible. Do regular, weekly or better yet twice weekly 5-10% water changes and you should be fine. Outside of that, I think your plan for stocking is very sound. Don> Curious, -Laura Small tank filtration I am a little 'afraid' of live rock- isn't that dreadfully difficult to keep alive for very long..? <Not at all, bacteria and critters will reproduce naturally> Does the live rock help filter/digest waste like an undergravel filter does in a freshwater aquarium? <Not necessarily waste but bacteria will help with ammonia/nitrite/nitrate control and in a very natural way. Some scavengers will help with waste, a variety of snails brittle stars (stay away from the green variety. Some use small hermits but I have not had good luck with these critters.> I have to admit, I'm quite ignorant about live rock, and have only just started hearing about it. Heck, I thought it was only for decoration. Does the live rock buffer the pH? <Oh yes and so much more. Try putting 'live rock' into your favorite search engine> In the setup you describe, is there a cycling period involved? <Yes normally a number of weeks, but the tank itself will need to cycle as well as the rock. Many folks will cycle both at the same time. (Put the rock in the new tank and wait until ammonia/nitrite/nitrate are 0> If you have time, can you explain or point me to some reference material about that? <Here you go: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/liverock1.htm and do follow the blue links at the top of the page for more discussions. You might want to visit our online forum at http://www.wetwebfotos.com/talk and see what folks are saying about live rock and resellers over there. I would highly recommend this 'filter media'. Makes for a wonderful aquascape as well <G> All kinds of wondrous life forms come in with good live rock> Thanks very much for responding to my question so concisely! <You are very welcome, and let us know how this comes together for you! Don> -Laura Tank raised Clownfish/nano reef Hello again. Please forgive my ignorance, for like I said, I am new to this. Thank you for the link, it was helpful. I just wanted to say that a little more input would have been greatly appreciated. I surf your website an awful lot and probably could have answered my own questions in time, but chose to ask you guys instead. I am assuming you don't approve of my filtration method from the reply you sent me. <The only problem I see with it is that there is nothing removing waste from the system, I like mechanical filtration. If I recall you have a good amount of live rock and live sand which will handle the majority of the filtration. Skimmers are great, but there is really no way to fit one onto the eclipse 12 without cutting into the top. I'm guessing you do not want to do that. I would turn the eclipse filtration back on, remove the bio wheel and use either the filter cartridges supplied by eclipse or cut some other filter media to fit. The filter chamber is good when you want to use carbon and things of that nature. 10% to 15% water changes weekly. Be sure to heat and aerate your water before adding it to the tank. It is too easy to swing the PH and the temperature in smaller tanks.> It's an eclipse twelve. I removed the filter after having an abundance of diatoms & algae and have since seen a drastic improvement. <diatoms are fairly common in new setups, they usually pass in time.> I hope I didn't come across as rude, those aren't my intentions. <Nope, we are all friends here. Sorry if I came across short.> Any help would be greatly appreciated by me & my new clown. <Hope the above is more helpful. If space and finances allow it, I would consider a larger system, they are easier to maintain. Something in the 40 to 50gal range would be nice. Have you checked out nano-reef.com, good info there as well. Best Regards, Gage> Nano nano (as in small reef) >Greetings all, your much esteemed consensus is sought: >>Greetings Steve. Marina is the minion on assignment for you today. >I would like to set up a small live rock/invert system, with just a few fish, some soft corals, and the possibility of a couple of hard corals later on; I am limiting the contents to what I can collect on vacation in the Florida Keys, with the exception of the rock which I need to set up the system in advance. >>I am not familiar with collection regulations in Florida. Please do get in touch with your state Fish, Game, and Wildlife Department (or whichever state body governs this aspect). >My physical space limits me to a 20gal (12inch high) tank with an additional 5 inches of overhead clearance and about 5 behind. I am thinking of a typical outside power filter for mechanical, with the LR doing most or all of the biological. >>This would put you in the nano range. Therefore, I'd like to point you to the best nano guy I know of. He's on http://reefs.org/phpBB2/index.php and his name is brandon429. This guy knows his stuff! >I would like to try some plants (Halimeda, Penicillus, Udotea). Should I go with an undergravel or no, and what substrate depth/composition would you suggest? >>From what I understand, deep sand beds can be problematic in very small nanos. But, in a 20 gallon it's the method I would suggest, 3"-4" would be the depth I recommend, using Aragonite fine grained sand. As I also understand it, some Home Depot's sell something called "Southdown" sand. This product is highly sought after, apparently it's the same as Aragonite, but more reasonably priced. >Can you recommend a skimmer which will physically fit (i.e. max height 17")? >>I personally am not too hip the current hobbyist technology, but I understand that there is the CPR Backpack (sp?) and the AquaC Remora that are supposed to be good skimmers. Have you got space underneath for a sump/refugium? >My thought was to go with power compacts 50% 10000K/50% actinic; I seem to have a choice of either 96 or 130 watts; or, possibly MH if I have the clearance (I see a 150 or 250watt HQI low profile which would fit, but would effectively sit right on the tank cover or close to it). Your thoughts? >>Because it's such a small tank, I would avoid metal halides altogether for the overheating problems and stick to power compact lighting. Please know that the actinics are not necessary to photosynthetic growth, but serve an aesthetic purpose. Also, because the tank is small, be careful introducing new specimens to this intense lighting. Please look for information here--> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm And specifically on lighting here--> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm And here--> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm >Finally, if anybody knows a good source for cured Caribbean live rock, I'd like to know. Looking forward to your new invert book, it comes just at the right time! Thanks, Steve J. >>I cannot help you there, either. I'll suggest going to our board here--> http://www.wetwebfotos.com/talk to pose a query, as well as to reefs.org to pose the query there, should you still need more information. You are quite welcome, and good luck! Marina Looking for Small Reef Tank Suggestions Hello Bob, <Steven Pro this evening.> I have a 30 gallon full reef setup with wet/dry trickle filtration 30 lbs of live rock and 30 lbs of live sand. I know you advise against such a small system, I now know why (the tank has been up and running great for about 4 months, but it s very meticulous work). <Yes, inheriting less stable and prone to overstocking & overfeeding.> After reading "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" (extraordinary publication, second to none I have encountered) I have come to realize that I might have used larger grain crush coral mixed in with my substrate ( which consist of just fine Natures Ocean 'live" Aragonite) <I prefer the exclusive use of fine sand. This stops any detritus from finding its way in between the grains.> and was wondering if just placing this material directly into the sump section of my wet/dry would be beneficial? (Increasing buffer capacity, decreasing depletion of calcium, and maybe even some extra denitrifying bacteria?) <Probably more trouble than its worth to just do part of the unit. The benefits that you listed would be small, but there would be the added benefit of additional infauna/critters. Larger pieces are very good for promoting copepods and amphipods. But the drawback would be extra detritus accumulation in that section and more difficult to clean.> I was pondering the idea of turning the filter into a full refugium , would that be suggested for a system of this size? <Sure> To be honest I'm a bit scared of removing the bio-media from the filter. How would I go about this? <Go slowly, remove only a portion at a time. Perform a Google search for refugium on the WWM site for additional info.> Thanks for everything you've been a great deal of help, Mark L. <You are welcome. -Steven Pro> Eheim filter for 29gal reef? Hello, I was wondering if an Eheim Ecco filter would be sufficient for my 29gall tall reef tank? <A good start for mechanical filtration (and space for occasional chemical)... I encourage you to add a skimmer, and investigate other possibilities (like using a live algae sump...)> or should I spring for a Eheim 2026 filter? Also I need a recommendation on a Reliable powerheads as I am having trouble with my Rios... I heard MaxiJet 1200's were ok, how about Eheim hobby pumps? <These are detailed on WetWebMedia.com as is a discussion and files of FAQs on marine filters/filtration.> thanks for the info, Ben Garbi <Please take a long look through the materials on WWM. There is a search feature on the Homepage and Indices. Bob Fenner> Sump for Eclipse System12 Bob, <Steven Pro here with the follow-up.> Thank you for your help. The project went well! The Eclipse 12 tank is drilled, plumbed, and my new CPR SR2 is already producing some high quality "gunk". <Great!> I do have another question though. My drain line seems to develop some sort of "air lock" which is limiting flow. My 3/4" drain as plumbed right now is as follows... a strainer connected to a slip coupling to a 45 degree elbow (entire assembly can be rotated to adjust the tanks water level) to a bulkhead fitting to the bulkhead's elbow to flexible tubing which drains open ended into the sump. Oddly enough, the water level in the sump effects how the drain line "behaves". When the open end of my drain line is above the sump's water level, the discharge valve of the return pump (Rio 1700) must remain throttled down for the drain line to keep up. However, when the open end of my drain line is below the sump's water level, the drain line is able to drain the pump's full capacity (noisily though as the strainer slurps air from above the tank's surface). Although I would love to understand the actual fluid dynamics relative to this problem, I am most eager to find a fix. Ideally, I will be able to utilize the pump's max flow rate in my tank and drain the water back to my sump quietly. Although I probably could modify the cut in my tank and upsize my drain line to 1" to solve the problem, I suspect there is a simple way to eliminate the problem by modifying my in tank drain line plumbing? <Yes, remove the bulkhead elbow on the outside of the tank and replace it with a T assembly. You will need the T, two short (1-2") sections of PVC pipe of the same size, a slip to female thread fitting, and a male thread to barb fitting. Assemble these pieces such that you can insert the T so the side part goes into the bulkhead and the straight part is up and down. This will allow air to escape from the drain line and for the water to flow down quicker.> Also, I can't find where my original question is posted on your website, can you tell me where it is? <They all get posted on the daily page for one day. Then get filed under one of the FAQ's. Your previous question could have been filed in the FAQ's for plumbing, skimmers, sumps, etc. I am not really sure. You could try searching for it using the Google tool. Try the key words Eclipse, skimmer, and any other words that stand out to distinguish your question from all the others we get.> Thanks again for your help. Corey Marker Lynbrook, NY <You are welcome. -Steven Pro> Nano modifications Hello Mr. Fenner This is the first time I have emailed you or your fellow experts. Recently I changed the substrate in my 18 gal nano reef from crushed coral to a deep 4" sand bed. So much silt was kicked up in the process my Prizm skimmer and AquaClear hang on filter both burned out at once. Of course all this took place at 11:30 pm Saturday so I was forced to make an emergency run to Wal-Mart for some sort of filtration. <Murphy's Law> The next day I went to LFS and picked up a Bak-Pak 2R. <Very nice for small systems.> I continued to run the Wal-Mart filter (a simple hang on 120 gph with carbon) until last night. I decided to try running on the Bak-Pak alone with a PowerSweep for circulation. All seems fine, the tank is mature (18 months) I run 64 watts of PC and have about 25 lbs of sand and 15 lbs of live rock 75% covered in coralline. I keep a bi-color blenny and a small unidentified (according to LFS) goby and a cleaner shrimp, besides the algae army. Should I still be OK with this set up? <Sounds fine.> I have never had any problems with water quality before but since this is my first reef tank I would hate to see it crash and lose all my precious (propagated from friends) Sarcophyton. Sorry so long. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks. <All sounds well. -Steven Pro> Advice needed :) (Small reef set-up) Dr. Mr. Fenner. Quick introduction... I've been keeping fish for several years now, and consider myself to be a contentious fish-keeper. <Like this> After many interesting endeavors with freshwater (which I am still passionate about!) I am ready for a challenge, and I'm hoping you can help. <Oh, yes> I recently acquired a Tenecor Model 8 flat back hexagon tank, eight gallons with a wet/dry filter (you can view the tank here: http://www.tenecor.com/aquar/table2.htm ) Currently, I am researching setting it up as a mini-saltwater tank, quite the project I know! I have a bundle of questions I can't seem to find answer on, despite my fervent research. I'll list them here, and perhaps you can give me your advice? <Okay> I read on your website that wet/dry filters are nitrate factories. Am I going to run into serious environment stability problems if I run a wet/dry filter running on such a small tank? What advice can you give me for my small system with this filter? I've never used a wet/dry filter before. <Not too much of "problems" if you limit the source of the nitrates (livestock, feeding), increase the amount of "nitrate users" (photosynthetic life, including micro-, macro-algae... lighting...), and purposeful denitration (live rock, substrate...)> I plan to use live rock and live sand in this tank. How will this interact with the wet/dry filtration? How much live rock would you recommend for this tank? <Twelve pounds or so...> Do I need a protein skimmer on a small tank like this? If so, what brand and size would you recommend? <I would have a skimmer yes... a necessarily small one... hang-on... perhaps a modified Skilter (with airstone), a SeaClone, a Prizm if you can stand the noise, even a small BakPak by CPR... > Finally, any other advice you can give me before I embark on this journey. I'm absolutely willing to put a lot of time and effort into this tank, I just need to know what to do! Jill <Where to start here? You appear to have the most important requisites: an open, clear, curious/demanding mind... keep reading, chatting with others... and enjoy your new experiences... go slow here... savor each "step"... Bob Fenner> Small reef tank Hi Bob, I was going to make my 55ga into a full blown reef system sometime in the near future. My wife wants the 55 to be just fish so she can get a few of her choice picks in fish. Her picks are definitely not reef compatible. She is also concerned about the extra cost of all that power hungry lighting. (I of course could care less. That's why I work) <I understand on both counts> She has expressed her concerns and would accept a smaller reef tank but of course she tells me "Space is very limited" ( I didn't think we really needed that damn couch any how!) <Careful... or you may not need a bed!> So on to my questions. I know you think small reef is bad because of instability. I agree. Yet I have seen many nice smaller reef systems kept by people who are no where near as careful or conscientious as me. With all my salt experience I think I could manage. Would a 29ga with only 2 small little fishies for movement be O.K.? <Likely so... A piece by me on "Small can be beautiful" ran this month in FAMA, and am pretty sure is posted on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com that you might want to look at/over.> I would buy a twin 65watt PC hood for the lighting. Plenty I think for most soft and LPS's. After you build the reef wall, where the heck do you put a HOT skimmer or filter? <Behind, aside the tank, hanging on... or in/on a sump...> Will two Powerhead with sponges be enough for filtration? <Maybe... eventually... but not to start. Please take a read over the "Small Reef Set-Up" section of the WWM site> Probably would run some carbon once a week for a few hours to clear up the water color and remove some pollutants. Smart, dumb or should I incorporate it full time? <Leave in full time, switch out monthly> I don't think a sump would be a good investment on such a small system. Any filtration ideas? <Many... see the site... it is a good idea> It would be a challenge and I think a bit of fun too. I believe as do you that bigger is better. I trust your opinion and if you think that 29 is too small the maybe I just won't try it. <Well worth trying. Bob Fenner> Zimmy Change in filtration <Hi Lowe, Lorenzo here, still, for a couple more weeks, actually.> Good afternoon Lorenzo, or maybe Bob by now. I am currently upgrading the filtration in my 37 gal eclipse system by adding an Aqua-c remora protein skimmer. My question is what is the best process to do this? I currently have a three inch base of aragonite, 50 lbs of live rock, a 65w SmartLite, Blue damsel, Pseudochromis diadema, variety of mushrooms corals, breadcrumb sponge, four emerald crabs, and a variety of snails/hermits. The tank is about 1.5 years old. From what I have read on the website a bio-wheel is generally useless after the initial set-up, would you recommend removing? <Nah, if you manage to rig the Eclipse to work with the hang-on Remora skimmer, (both are very nice products) you can certainly leave the bio-wheel on the Eclipse running. True, it's not really necessary, with all that live rock and sand...> Also can you recommend a compatible fish for the small tank and aggressive Pseudochromis? Love the site and thanks. Lowe <A Banggai Cardinal, or a dwarf angel, like Flame or Coral Beauty...? regards, Lorenzo> Small system circulation questions Greetings again Bob, <Hi there> This is probably a really dumb question and it shows just how inept I am in the whole aquarium area. <Don't discount the validity of starting/stating at this point> I thought (and you affirmed my suspicions) that I should put a powerhead in my eclipse 12. (I have an airstone strip thingy along the back and the damsels seem to have adjusted quickly to the bubbles :) So powerheads... all the ones I've seen say that they are made to attach to undergravel filters. is it o.k. or is there a way to use the powerhead without an undergravel filter? <Yes. All models are able to be modified for this purpose... look to using a sponge on the intake if provided, at least a "Bioball" on the intake if not> and do I leave these things on all the time? <Yes> where would be the optimum place to place my powerhead, or does it depend on where I plan to put corals and such? <To some degree... in such a small system it is fine to just aim the discharge in such a fashion to increase/optimize overall circulation> Thanks again, Ben <You're welcome my friend. Be chatting. Bob Fenner> Eclipse Filter Modification... livestock I recently purchased a Marine land Eclipse system for my desk at work. I believe it is 6 gallons. I have had tanks at work before that were this size and always had good success keeping 1 fish. I am using the stock filter which is just a small Biowheel. My Salinity is 1.021 and my temp is 79 I have crushed coral and 1 fish , a very small Undulated Trigger Once I get the Biowheel seasoned would it be a good idea to add another small fish, when the trigger outgrows the tank I will take him home, but right now he hides like crazy. Would another fish make him more comfortable or is it in some fish nature to hide. <Yes... inclined to hide when young, small... and in small volumes. I encourage you to trade this fish in for... one or two small tank-raised Clownfishes... No need for an anemone... colorful, will stay out and about most all the time...> I hesitate to take away his hiding spot cause I think it will stress him out. <You are correct> I have 75 gal at home with fish only and have had great success, I just enjoy it so much that I want a tank at work. Any thoughts or advice?? Thanks in advance <Chat with you soon my friend. Bob Fenner>
|
|
|
Features: |
|
| Featured Sponsors: |
