Injured anemone       3/2/13
Last night one of my live rocks shifted and landed on my green long tentacle anemone. I quickly moved the rock once I realized it had happened.
This morning I noticed that the anemone appears to have a tear on its column. Is there any way it can survive this, or is it doomed for death?
<Yes; if it was healthy prior, the water quality is good, stable...>
 Is there anything I can do to help it? Thanks!
<I'd overdose by double a dose of iodide-ate supplement (to the water). See WWM re. Bob Fenner>

Damaged BTA.. Is he healing or is he a goner? 5/24/10 My name is Laura. My boyfriend and I have had our marine tank for about 5 months. I have done alot <No such word> of reading. Your site was really informative, but I'm having trouble finding information about what to do for my anemone. I have posted on forums.. but I feel as though I'm getting annoying since he doesn't appear to be getting any better. Here is some background: Equipment 55 gallon tank Eshopps PSK-75H Hang on Tank Skimmer (4) 48" T5 lighting Regular power filter with carbon and filter fiber (2) Koralia3s <With anemone stuck against> about 65 lbs of live rock and 50 lbs of sand Livestock: 2 Ocellaris clowns; 2 green Chromis; 1 tiny watchman goby, 1 scooter blenny, 1 blue hippo tang (currently 1" in length), and a purple fish (I always forget the name.. size of a royal gamma.. but all purple) Turbo Snails, those small snails that are always on the glass (name.. again), and hermit crabs Corals: Ricordea, Frogspawn, Mushroom, and 2 more I forget the name (sorry!) You can see them in the attached pictures. My tank parameters: Ammonia-0 Nitrite-0 Nitrate-<10 pH- 8.2 Okay, my anemone.. When we first got him, he footed and moved the night we got him, and then stayed there for about 10 days. We fed him krill and he took and finished all of it. I think he was a little bleached when we got him, but with lighting and food he was looking really healthy and gaining color (brown and green). 2 weeks ago he was sucked up into our strainer for our filter. I did a water change, and he gradually got himself out. He refooted and didn't really suffer any damage except for a loss of maybe 3 tentacles fortunately. About 4 days ago, I woke up to him chopped up in my powerhead (see photo). I turned it off immediately, my water wasn't too cloudy. I set the powerhead on the substrate by rocks so that he could get himself out. He got himself out and footed on a rock. He was is really bad shape. I covered my powerheads with filter floss ( my strainer and skimmer intake were already covered). The next morning he was stuck to the powerhead, but there was no more damage since there was the filter fiber. ( I did my water change, about 12 gallons, today because I couldn't run to get some water the day before). Turned off powerhead, he gradually let himself go.. and then floated around the tank. He was just getting swept away by the powerheads. So I turned them off. He was bobbing around with the small flow in my tank, so I "trapped" him with a fish breeders box (all I had handy that would permit some water movement for him) between the glass, sand and a rock so that he wouldn't damage himself and hopefully foot. He ended up footing for about 3 hours and then let loose again. Today he still looks terrible. He only footed during the day today, but then around 7pm he just let himself fold off it. He is not folded onto himself on the sand. His foot is inflated and his mouth has been open all day. His tentacles are inflating, but there is white "flesh" still partially coming off him. I don't know if this means he's dying, dead, healing. So I have been watching him all day to make sure he won't get sucked back towards the powerhead. I turn the powerheads off at night while I cant watch him. What do I do? <I'd remove this animal... Very unlikely it will recover, but if you have another established system to risk it dying, dissolving in...> He just wont foot anywhere and stay. I have crevices all over my rockwork for his foot, but he just doesn't seem to like any. I would put him in a small tank that I'm about to set up for a sump, but I don't have any filtration or lighting for it. I woke up this morning and found him completely deflated and looking absolutely terrible. He still reacted to the lights being turned on. Do you have any suggestions on what I can do to help him? I have done water changes, let himself get himself free, lowered flow (only 1 powerhead on during day) so that he might re attached, covered ALL intakes and powerheads. I haven't tried to feed him since he was injured because I read that it can further stress them out. His mouth is still open a bit. I will close for about an hour a day, and then re open. Thank you, Laura Picture 1---photo of damage while hanging on powerhead Picture2-- what he looked like yesterday morning (5/23) Picture 3--what he looked like last night after I turned off lights.. he just let himself unattached and folded on himself. Picture4-- today (5/24) Picture 5- our tank <This Actinarian is done. Bob Fenner>

Sorry for the 2nd email. 5/24/10 I wanted to also ask, should I take him to my LFS and see if they should hold on to him? That is, if there is a chance that he can survive. Thank you, Laura <Mmm, worth asking, but as previously stated, and on WWM in many places... such incidents (getting sucked into pump intakes, powerheads, overflows... are generally fatal. BobF> Re: Sorry for the 2nd email. I don't know if you were able to look at the pictures or not, but does it look as though he might survive? I hate to "flush" him if he might have a chance. Thank you for the quick response, Bob F. Laura <I really wish I could present a more "up beat" diagnosis, but there is exceedingly little chance of recovery here. And, if not removed, the decomposition of this animal may cause a good deal of further trouble. B> Re: Sorry for the 2nd email. Thanks Bob. Anything I should look for today to show he might make it? If not... he will meet the toilet tonight. <Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/anemsysfaqs.htm and the linked files... B>

Mixing Saltwater Improperly, Damaged Anemone -- 2/01/08 Hi Crew, <Hello Richard, Brenda here!> I thought I would send this word of warning and also a question about a bubble tip anemone. Although relatively new to marine keeping, I like to think that I don't make rookie mistake anymore i.e. anemone vs. powerhead. <If there is a powerhead in the tank, it is a possibility. There is no such thing as an 'anemone safe' powerhead, no matter how well protected.> However, I thought this e-mail might just serve as a warning to others as to how delicate these creatures are and how often we expect them to adapt to our world, time constraints and schedules etc. I have a 1 year-old daughter who occupies quite a bit of my spare time and therefore daddy's other babies (2 clowns and the aforesaid BTA) often take second place and the time I have for them is very limited. <Yikes! This is not ideal for the livestock.> I knew I hadn't done a water change for over 3 weeks and although parameters are good, one of my clowns was not looking too good, so I decided the most non-invasive way to help would be to do a decent (20%) water change. Having quickly mixed the RO water up, I poured it into the tank. I usually pour it next to a powerhead (covered!) so that any slight difference in temp, ph, salinity is quickly dispersed. <These parameters should match before you add to the tank.> However, the anemone lives directly under this powerhead and the last few dribbles of water contained some undissolved salt which gracefully floated down through the water and landed on the anemone, which immediately retracted. <This is not the proper way to mix salt. This is quite damaging to all of your live stock. I recommend letting your salt mix for 24 hours before doing a water change. Making sure the salinity matches the tank, at 1.026, I hope.> I immediately 'fanned' him to make sure there was no remaining undissolved salt on it, but damage done! Although I am sure he will survive, <I am not.> approximately 12 hours later there is still a clear area that either has tissue damage, or is still retracted/deflated. A quick search on Google of "anemone + salt" revealed that some-one in the US has a patent on a mixture of salt and calcium hydroxide for killing 'problem' anemones like Aiptasia! I just thought it worth pointing out to others that something that might seem relatively harmless, a few grains of salt floating in already salty water, is actually probably one of the most harmful ways of damaging an anemone. <It is well known that improperly mixed saltwater will harm livestock.> Finally, the question, if I leave it to recover and maybe give it a few additional feedings, how quickly can anemones recover i.e. weeks or months? Extent of damage is hard to say. Fully extended, it is a good hand sized anemone, well attached and never wanders, no damage to pedal disc, but at the moment I would say 10% of the tentacles are retracted or damaged with small amount of mucus and small amount of tissue showing white 'scarring' around contact point with salt. <This is hard to say. This anemone has suffered a chemical burn. This is severe. Additional feedings alone will not help. You need to keep pristine water conditions. You will likely be able to tell within a week or so if the anemone is improving. Full recovery may take weeks or months. This anemone may also split, and the injured portion may or may not survive. For now, concentrate on better husbandry. Anemones do not like abrupt change. Adding saltwater that is not completely mixed will cause death.> Richard <Brenda>

My anemone is BURNED!! SW supp.s   6/13/06 Hey I have sent this once already and I didn't get a response so I re-sent it, <Thank you... We have ongoing issues with our webmail... Arggghhh> I absolutely adore your website.... Since I am a newbie I need all of the opinions I can get, and I trust your teams opinions the most. I have a purple LTA and when I was adding a diluted portion of Seachem Marine Buffer to raise the PH level to 8.3 <... best to do this through your water changes... not directly into the main/display tank> some of the solution got on my anemone. A small portion of her lower tentacles now look as if they have been burned, they are small and shriveled, and bleached. Will these tentacles regenerate themselves? Lorri Thanos <Can if not too badly damaged... Do add such supplements to your pre-made saltwater for use during change-outs. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Freak Anemone Accident 10/30/05 I've searched and looked, for hours, for a situation similar to mine without success. I hope that this is not a repeat question so that the information might be helpful to others besides myself. I have a bubble tip anemone that has been doing fantastic for 5 months. I feed it fresh, meaty foods twice weekly. I has doubled in size since I acquired it and is very beautiful. <Sounds good thus far> Now for the problem. 2 days ago, while doing regular maintenance, a rather large piece of salt creep fell into the tank from the protein skimmer (hangs on back of the tank) and fell right into the center of the anemone, causing it to close very quickly taking the salt inside. <Man! Have gotten a bit of this sort of crust into my eye at times... Sting City!> It hasn't opened since and has ejected all of it's stomach contents, which I removed to keep from fouling the tank. <Good> What little I can see of him near the center seems to be badly scarred, similar to what a chemical burn might look like. I have not been able to see it's mouth at all. The arms are sticking up and are inflated, but the animal is not opening up. Can salt that has not dissolved kill this animal, or is this something it should recover from? <Will likely recover in time... a few to several days, weeks> Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can offer and thanks for a fantastic resource. Perry <A pleasure to share. Bob Fenner>

Using WWM, anemone health, systems 8/13/05 I have a purple tip anemone and he has done just fine until now. I put in 3 ½ gallons of fresh water in my 29 gal. tank. I forgot to add salt. <!> The anemone looked like he was losing oil into the tank and put his tentacles in his mouth as he moved deep into a rock.  I took the water back out and added some salt. I then put the water back in the tank and checked the salt level. The salt level was still a little low. What signs do I look for if I feel my anemone may be dying?  Thank you Debbie <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm and the linked files above... Don't write... read. Bob Fenner>

Anemone Troubles 7/28/05 Hi guys <Hey, Mike G with you this evening.> I have taken command of my little brothers Jewel Rio 180 marine set up whilst he travels for a year and although he gave me step by step instructions I need your help please <And I'm glad to give it.> I have a white carpet anemone <"White" and "Anemone" really don't belong in the same sentence. Bleaching comes immediately to mind.> which he has had from day one (3 ? years) I have been looking after this tank for nearly three weeks now and she is gorgeous and I hand feed her mussels which she enjoys. <If it is, indeed, bleached, the mussels may very well be the only thing allowing her to continue living.> Yesterday I carried out my first water change of approximately 20% after finding that my readings were as follows PH - 7.8 <A bit low. Aim for 8.2, 8.4> ammonia - 0.25ppm <A bit high. Aim for no more than 0> NO2 - 0.25ppm <See above. Should be 0> but the big one was NO3 - 160ppm which was off the scale. <Very high, though you've got that figured out.> I got told 20% 2 weekly is the norm is this correct (question 1)? <Depends on the aquarist. Everyone does things differently, though 20% every two weeks sounds good to me.> Although all fish and anemones appeared fine in the tank before the water change. <Alright.> So I got my self some pre salted RO water from my local shop <Same brand of salt as your brother used in his tank? Same salinity?> set it up to an air stone for 24 hours and heated it up to the tank temperature I then begin the change of 20% of the water which appeared to go well for my first time. <Good to hear.> After it was done I then took the readings again and to my shock nothing had really changed the PH was still low 7.8 and my NO3 was still way over 160ppm <If it was off the charts before, there's no telling how high it was. It could have been at 500, and you reduced it to 161, in which case you'd still get the same reading.> How can I get these down (question 2)? <Do what you've been doing. Water changes, lighter feedings...> Secondly I bought some proper ph 8.2 and added just 2 scoops directly to my 180 litre tank to try and get the ph level up to what all sites tell me it should be. <"Proper pH" and other such pH buffers are, in my experience, nothing but problematic. When they "wear off," your water will go back to 7.8, and the jump up then back down will stress your inhabitants unnecessarily. Using Kalkwasser or other such additives commonly administered to reef aquaria can prove invaluable in situations such as these.> After I had done this my carpet shriveled up into a tiny ball as if to say no I was fine as I was, albeit now 2 hours after my heart stopped beating thinking that I may have killed my cutest little new found friend she appears again to be opening up very slightly. <Anemones tend to do a water change within their column from time to time, and will deflate completely periodically or when under stress. Unless it stays like this for a prolonged period of time, I'd not worry myself if I were you.> Is this normal during a water change that she will get the hump with me (question 3)? <See above.> As if I loose her it's the hose pipe and car exhaust fumes for me as I love feeding her? <I don't quite understand what you're saying here, though if it is white, I'd say feeding would be a good thing.> My final question is I also bought another anemone <With brother's consent?> the other weekend which is a brown anemone with brown tentacles with green ends that appear to have holes in them <Hard to guess the species.> as I could not resist her for my 2 clowns and on the say so of my local aquatic shop. On getting her home we set her up and put her in the corner of the tank, the next morning my dad screamed she is next to the carpet <When newly introduced, uncomfortable, or stressed, anemones will roam around the tank looking for a more suitable location.> so I dived in and moved her and since then she will not really take to anywhere and looks like she does not want to take refuge on the glass, sand or rock and will not really show her mouth for feeding and looks like her feet are damaged. <They are quite strong. Perhaps you tore the foot when you moved it?> So do you think she is in big trouble <A tear in the foot is usually a problem.> and how can I encourage her to settle (question 4)? <Provide it with a place it likes, and it'll take to it.> I thank you for your time and look forward to your answers at this difficult time <Not a problem. Good luck with your new anemone!> Gary from London <Mike G>

BTA CLOSED UP 2/6/03 I have had this BTA for a couple of months. It is attached to a piece of coral. It exists with a percula in it. Yesterday while performing a 20% water change a small piece of evaporated salt fell into the BTA. Since then it immediately closed up and has stayed this way. I realize it cannot eat like this. <indeed... just irritated> I also understand if it dies it will detach and float. <not correct necessarily. May just sink and stink> Is there anything to do other than wait?? <for the time past now... the damage, if any, is done> It is closed up tight like a fist. Thanks Paul <Paul... please do browse our wetwebmedia.com archives specifically for the FAQs (many pages here) just on BTAs. I suspect that you would learn a lot and perhaps be surprised about its needs, reproductive tendencies, feeding requirements, and the irritation from that clownfish. Anthony>

Bubble anemone What's wrong? Hiya Bob & Crew.  I recently purchased a Bubbletip anemone for my 26G tank.  My tank is fully cycled w/ NO3 5-10ppm. Also includes 35lbs cured LR, 40lbs live aragonite reef fine reef sand, SeaClone 100 and an Emperor280 filter w/ lighting 130W(10K&Actinic) Aqualight Coralife.  Tank currently have only the BTA( about 3-4inch), a coral banded shrimp, and a scooter blenny.  I had my BTA for 1 week, all was fine and seems to be expanding and then yesterday it produced some slime underneath its body <<Torn, damaged. B>> so I moved him to another corner.  Now it shrank to about 1-2inches. What's going on?? < do not move him around he will move on his own. he is expelling the water in him (which is normal) anemones can do this on a reg basis.  He was fine during the day and night the first week.  Feed him 2x a week w/ Micro-Vite and sometimes frozen Brine Shrimp. <you are feeding the wrong kind of food try some cocktail shrimp  (make sure is not cooked) break it up into pieces, the anemone can ingest. I have a rose anemone that is bigger than a football and I feed him 2 whole cocktail shrimp a week>  Also my coral band shrimp seems to be hiding 24/7.  Will this guy ever come out to eat?? <he is eating the food that the fish miss that makes it's way to the back .They are scavengers> How do I get him to come out? < they are nocturnal so it will be difficult> Is my lighting too bright? <NO>  My scooter blenny is not doing his job on the algae. <Scooter blennies do not feed on algae they ar more like a mandarin. try a lawnmower blenny he will take care of all of it> This stink! All I wanted was a tank w/ 2clowns and an anemone.  Any advice??? <hang in there you were given some misdirection hope this helps Mike H.>   

Ritteri Anemone Hello Mr. Fenner, <James here for Bob> I addressed this to you because my wife wrote you a while back ago about a Ritteri we purchased. It is still alive and of course did okay for awhile. The anemone is in a 29 gal with 2 Maroon clowns at this time. I am putting finishing touches on my 300  gal. (Let it cycle). I change water every week. Parameters are fine. There is 130 watt P.C. on it right now. It has attached to the side of the tank (Which I know this is normal) but it never did climb to the top like they do. It stayed in the main flow of the pump which is about 400gph. When purchased, it Had a good looking toe. No rips or tears or signs of healing from tears. When purchased It was on a flat rock. I wouldn't take it with out it. The mouth was tight and closed, no gaping. The mouth is still in great shape. I tried feeding it , it eats once in awhile for me, but the clowns spit Mysis, nd Spirulina flakes in the middle. It closes up and digests and then opens up. Now here is the problem, The toe started to turn whitish, on the part that sticks to the glass. Then it got concave like ( In the middle it is detached from the glass, but the ends are still attached to glass). The past dew days it has not fully opened and falls almost all the way off the glass. (Here is the funny part- not so funny) At night 30 minutes after the main lights are out, moon lights on, it re- attaches to the glass all the way. It stays there until the main lights go back on during the day time. It is almost like the light is too much for it, I did not think that was possible. Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 20. I do add Iodine,<you need to test for levels of iodine.  Too much can be harmful.  It is hard to know how much of this the animals absorb.> Vitamins (To water) and Iodide. I have a sump rated for 180 gal. and a protein skimmer. I do notice the Maroon clowns, especially the female, really is very rough with it, but boy you stick your hand in there for cleaning and forget it. She broke my plastic spoon, and before she laid eggs last month she re-arranged the tank moving rocks 3x her size. I called my local fish store and they have no clue. They told me when it dies they could get me another one. That's a real great response!, how does that help this one. Anyway do you have any suggestions, I have never seen a anemone act like this. <I do think your lighting is borderline for this anemone.  They do require strong lighting and water motion.  They generally do poorly in the home aquarium but with care and proper conditions some have lived for years.  What I would start doing is a 10% water change with an enriched salt mix such as Reef Crystals, make sure that iodine level is safe and keep the light on for 12 hours per day.  Cut out direct feedings for a while since it sounds like the clowns are giving it enough.  The anemone does provide a great deal of it's own food by photosynthesis providing the lighting is intense enough.  What type of filtering are you using?  James (Salty Dog)> Thanks, Scott
Confused about Ritteri Anemone Thanks for Answering James, The filter is just a standard sump with a Euro-Reef Skimmer. I think this anemone has had it though. I came home from work, it was off the tank and on a rock. It 's toe was still sticky, and stays stuck, it does not smell but the mouth is wide open and gaping with a look that is starting to crumble. I do not thing it is going to last long though. <Scott, you need to get it out of the tank before it does die or you will have a mess my friend.  Good luck.  James (Salty Dog) Scott
Ritteri Anemone Trouble Yes I was feeding it 3 times a week, The lights were new, 1 Antic. I pulled it out the mouth was did not look good and it was fouling the tank. It was Gone and nothing I could do. I just do not know what happened to it. I do use a protein skimmer and getting good stuff out of it. and in All my tanks I faithfully do 20% a week, including my 180, and my 300. I haven't missed a water change in 2 years. I always add my supplements. The food was Chopped up krill, with chopped silversides and other mix. Thanks for your help, but I do not think it was meant to be. The Maroons look lost. I think they were wild caught. I have had them a year. they lay eggs, they hatched a few times but did not live. I just do know what kind of anemone to get them anymore. I had a nice bubble tip In there with them, but It was too small. They beat the heck out of it, It almost died but I moved it to another tank and it is doing really well. The problem is the female is about 7" and very aggressive and protective of her anemone. I barely could stick my hands in the tank to clean it. Thank you for your time.<Hello Mr. Zielgler.  One thing to keep in mind.  Anemones are not easy to keep.  First of all, they don't ship well and that adds to problems from the start.  You must have done your homework on anemone/clown relationship since the Ritteri is the anemone of choice for the Maroon Clown with the bubble tip being second and long tentacle anemone (Macrodactyla doreensis) being runner up. The use of metal halide lighting is preferable for the ritteri.  PC lighting is acceptable for the bubble tip providing your tank is not deep. You certainly are doing things right but you are just experiencing what many of us have and that is realizing most anemones can't be kept in a closed system for any long term duration. Every now and then a lucky aquarist will get one that does exceptionally well under proper conditions. James (Salty Dog) Scott

Ritteri blues Good Morning, <hello> I have a 50 Gal. tank that is 36"L X 18"W X 20"D, with 2 175 Watt Metal Halides and 2 65 Watt power compact actinic blue lights. My tank is completely cycled for almost a year now, and my water quality is exceptional ( I do a 30% water change every two weeks, sometimes more often), and I have a motion full tank with alternating wave action.  My question is I have purchased a 8"-9" Ritteri Magnifica about 6 weeks ago, I did the acclimation properly for a week, and he was in good health when I bought him. For about the lst 4 weeks he deflates himself for several hours a day several times a day ( at no specific time period for any amount of time) and he looks like a blob, but he isn't deteriorating, and then reinflates himself for several hours again.  I filter feed him only twice a week, and he is hosting a percula clown, he hasn't moved since the first day he was in my tank so I don't know if he is happy or not.  I also have a carpet anemone in my tank, but he is all the way in the other corner of my tank, and he hasn't moved for 6 months.  I am beginning to wonder if I am pushing to much light or not enough, could you help me please. < no you are not pushing too much light. This is most of the time normal. they expel water and take in new. this is one of the most hardest anemones to keep. the best way I have found to keep them is by making a raised platform near the top of the surface and place them there. turn off pumps for 10 minutes and he will stick if healthy). they love light and also love to get hit with a lot of random current. you should also try feeding him cocktail shrimp uncooked). Last it could be the clown is harming the anemone. If the anemone is small and the clown is big it can damage the anemone. the anemone should be at least 5 times the size of the clown. hope good luck Mike H> Thanks,   Michael C. Arnold
Re: Questions about my Ritteri Thank You for your response, <welcome> I have a wave maker in my aquarium that is set on rolling action.  My clown is about 1" in length and my Ritteri is about 8"-9", so I doubt it is the clown <I doubt it too> Should I keep my lights on little longer, right now they are on 10 hours a day? <10 hours a day is good I would not go any longer than that Mike H> Thanks,

Carpet Anemone Hi guys and gals, <Hello Kim. How are you doing? What did you think of MACNA?> Yesterday morning I woke to find that my carpet had been slightly sucked onto/into my pump (talk about instant caffeine)! <Ugh!> You are probably wondering why this happened and where was my sponge guard? Well this pump (used to be a return pump that wasn't working hard enough) was in the top portion (not secured well enough I now gather) of my tank and has (had) a slotted cover that pretty much helped in protecting my fish, but unfortunately while I was sleeping my pump fell to the bottom of the tank. <This happens fairly often. One of the reasons why Anthony and, more and more, I hate powerheads in tanks. Excess heat, possibly killing invertebrates that climb too close to unprotected intakes, occasionally falling down from suction cups that don't stick and blowing sand all over the place, and even more possible problems that I cannot think of right now.> This wouldn't have been a problem if my carpet hadn't decide to move into the same area the night the pump fell. <Murphy's Law> Luckily this guy has a lot of mass so the part that got stuck didn't get far and the main body of the anemone wasn't harmed. He's a fighter! The pump is no longer in use until I can adapt a sponge to it and get a better secure spot for it. I know this event can be pretty traumatic even if they aren't chopped up by an impeller, but it seems to be recovering really well. He is opening up back to original size <A very good sign> and the clowns seem to be trying to nurse it back to health. So anyway, last night I noticed a milky, white substance (it looked like milk) flowing out of the mouth of the anemone for about 30 minutes, which was fluttered away by the clown. I was concerned that this was a delayed reaction to the night before, possibly some toxins or waste, but when I woke this morning, everything was fine in the tank (meaning no fish or inverts were dying of apparent ammonia or toxin poisoning, let alone there was no cloudiness or visual signs of trouble. So, I was wondering what you might think this was? <I do not really know. It almost sounds like a reproductive event, but not likely.> I don't recall ever seeing this happen before, but then again, it happened for such a short while that it is possible I have never noticed before. Was this just a way to remove waste, or a reaction to the stress? <It could be either or an unrelated event.> Also, is there anything care-wise that I can do to aid in the carpet's rehabilitation aside from water changes? <I would feed a little heavier, but nothing too large. I would also use some iodine. Dose as per manufacturer's recommendations.> Food? Lighting change, or lack there of? <I would maintain stability, that would include lighting.> Thanks, Kim <Good luck! -Steven Pro>

Carpet Anemone emergency!!! Hi all!! <cheers> I think the underside of its foot has split open.   <unusual and does not occur spontaneously. If it hasn't moved or been moved lately (2 weeks) then look for a predator (like a crab, nipping dwarf angel of puffer, etc)> I had noticed it move behind some rocks recently and today I tried to see if it was okay and possibly move it to a different area.  Well when I was feeling around, I hadn't tried to move it yet, it seemed as though I was feeling inside it.  I carefully detached it from the bottom and it looked like its inside are coming out the bottom!!   <indeed... mesenterial filaments in defense perhaps. Worse... organ tissue> There is a slime coat that it usually has when has just expelled food from eating or where it attaches at the base, but this looks different.  It reminds me of a dying anemone after it has been sucked in a power head.   <another possibility here is that it was fed food that was too large. Many aquarists make this mistake with whole pieces of shrimp, krill or silversides (fish). Although the animal stings it and draws it in... that doesn't mean that it is appropriate, safe or even smart. Tears occur attempting to digest a whole chunk of food that would never make its way through a water column of fishes on a wild reef naturally. The rule is finely minced foods: 1/4 or smaller ideally> I moved him to corner where I can keep an eye, but I am getting nervous.  Any suggestions.  I don't know what could have caused this since it was moving while still attached under the sand bed. <no worries for now my friend... they can heal rather quickly, sometimes they will propagate (split)... but know that they rot quickly (24 hours for lack of skeletal mass)... and so... no matter how bad it looks, don't give up unless you see it become necrotic at which point remove it immediately. Maintain good water quality and very small feedings in the meantime> Please help, Kim <best regards, Anthony>
Carpet Anemone emergency!!! So, if it doesn't become necrotic within, ...let's say 48 hours, then I should be somewhat in the "clear"??   <without a guarantee, we can say that after 48 hours... an injured anemone with integrity is in a very hopeful/good position. Most would succumb within that time if they were going to> What I mean is, maybe it is healing if a tear or wound is the case?   <yes... agreed> This morning it has swelled up to it's normal size, but it's foot has still not completely gone under the sand bed like normal. <no worries... all in good time. An excellent behavior. Sounds good> Since I normally on feed once or twice a week, should I keep this regime or increase the times per week and still keep the feedings small?? <under normal conditions several times weekly with small minced foods would be recommended. Almost daily for optimum growth/health if you like. Many small feedings are better than occasional large ones> How about adding anything to the water, aside from water changes? <normal maintenance for now. Perhaps just a little bit of reef iodine if you do not add it already. Small daily doses here too are better than large weekly ones. Iodine is antiseptic, nutritive and improves water quality slightly> Thanks again for the help...Kim <best regards, Anthony>

Anemone caught in overflow Hi all, This is a bit of an odd question, well, not really the question but the circumstances.....  My boyfriend and I have been keeping marine tanks for the last couple of years, and recently he got a job doing maintenance on tanks.  So he just called me and an anemone in one of the tanks was caught in the overflow.  He said that about 10% of it is ripped off.  They have it in a bucket right now, and aren't putting it back in the tank.  My question is what kind of chance does the anemone have of living? <Actually, quite a good chance> he called me for my opinion, and I don't think that it has much of a chance if that much of it was mangled, but I may be wrong--I was wondering what you think?  Sorry I don't have any info on the tank, but if there's a chance of saving it, it will be in a hospital tank with knowledgeable people taking care of it..... <If this system is large enough, otherwise stable, well-filtered... I would put the anemone back in> A really quick note would make me feel a lot better, I respect all of you very much. Thanks, Chris <Do cover/screen those intakes. Bob Fenner>

Air Bubbles in Anemone Hi Robert, <Anthony Calfo... the author and reef addict, in your service> Need your help on this. There're some air bubble caught inside some of the tentacles of my yellow sebae anemone. Same goes for part of the bottom bit of the anemone... in the disk area. I believe the air bubble came from the airstone when the anemone was upside down.  <Very unlikely... although some cnidarians do ingest air bubbles deliberately as a feeding strategy (for proteins attracted to the tension of air/water interface) they cannot gulp air bubbles. And a static air stone could not forcibly insert them. Air bubbles are often seen in symbiotic animals when they have been exposed to excessive light (intensity or duration). Do you think this was possible? Will it die? <most can purge bubbles in time if ingested, but if formed by zooxanthellae in tissue from light stress...all bets are off>  Earlier it was floating upside down on the surface of my tank. I placed it back to the bottom. It sits but still looks hanging in mid water due to the trapped air bubble in tentacles and disk. What can I do? <see below> Also I noticed the purple tip seem to faded off leaving just plain yellow now. I also noticed small bits of yellow thing on the tank floor... I believe it's small pieces of the anemone. However it looks fine and fresh though it doesn't bloom like it was when I bought it. <Sorry to break the news to you...but you got snookered. There is no such thing as a yellow sebae anemone: what you have is either a bleached anemone (sebae/malu species should be rich/dark drown with dark purple tips) or you got a dyed anemone (common). Either way it is likely to die. Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemones.htm , and http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sebaeanefaqs.htm > Is it dying? Should I take it out now b4 it pollutes the whole tank? <if possible, return it to the LFS with the hopes that they have a brown (healthy) one for trade. Otherwise, feed it fine shredded ocean meats to help the zooxanthellae recover (a source of carbon/nitrogen)> I don't have a spare tank ready unfortunately. Pls help before the whole tank breaks down. Thanks a mill for your expertise. Cheers.. <Keep us posted... Anthony>

Help (anemone health) Dear Bob, I purchased an anemone about 3 weeks ago, and he's been doing fine till about 4 days ago. he appears to be shriveled up and has a hard time attaching his foot to my live rock. Up till this point he's appeared healthy and opened up several times. I tested my water and it appears to be within all the right parameters. I've tried to offer him shrimp and other fish, but he'll grab it and then drop it. I've reviewed the anemone section of your web sight for some insight on my problem but I'm not sure what to do. Do you have any suggestions on what I can do within the next couple of days to give him the best chance for survival. Thank you for your help. Thang <There is not much you can do... this sounds like a/the typical large anemone specimen that has been damaged in collection, shipping. Likely the animal's pedicle/foot is torn... and hopefully it will heal, recover. Keep the system optimized and stable, read through the Breeder's Registry on anemones (their link is on our Links Pages)... and try to discern the species you're dealing with and its specific needs... your system may be under-illuminated, perhaps "too new" for such life. Bob Fenner>

Sticky Sebae stuff...? (and much stickier situation) I just got a sebae today.... it is open all of the way, but for some reason, its laying on its side. Its foot looks very bubbly now, but did not look this way at first. Also, I'm seeing some "snot" looking stuff dangling in the gravel once in a while. I believe that its coming from its foot. Was this a bad pick?  <Umm, likely yes... Very common for large actinarians/anemones to suffer damage (especially to the foot/pedicle) on removal from the wild, consequent handling, shipping... And best to wait on such purchases... after the specimens have been in captivity a good two weeks... and this species, actually Heteractis crispa... not historically a good survivor. Please take a read through the "Anemone" sections, and especially the related FAQs, Links on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com for more... and quick> I've got it in a 20 gal with a tomato (they have not met yet), Koran angle, powder brown tang, 2 damsels and a porcu puffer. I've got 5 lbs of live rock. what do you think is going on with it? I knew I was taking my chances with it, but I didn't expect this!!! Keith Slagerman <I do hope the size of this system, amount of live rock, and/or types of livestock here are typos... All this life will not "go" in such a system. Bob Fenner>

Help, of course! With Anemone Your book is excellent and is my main reference work. However, as you might suspect, I have a problem that I can't find an answer for.  <Thank you for writing, and count your/our blessings... the original length of CMA was over 1,100 pages... w/o graphics> I just bought a Heteractis Crispa from an internet based company. The anemone is not in good shape. At first I thought it was the shipping. The outside temperature here was probably in the high 20's with light snow. The inner and outer box seemed to be at about this temperature. All the bags of water were very cold. I did not take a temperature reading and I should have. However, this is my first anemone and I have a basic question that I can't find an answer to either in my own library or on the internet. <Good observations, relating> The anemone has two sides - up and down. I have assumed up is the side the tentacles seem to oriented to. This side has a white area in the middle that has what I would describe as a sphincter valve.  <Yep, mouth and anus> The other side is a white stem that grows and shrinks and is wide open on the bottom. Is this opening on the bottom normal?  <Yes, and the usual site of real trouble/collecting damage...> The anemone does not seem to be able to attach itself to anything. It continually gets knocked over and ever upside down (assuming my guess about top and bottom is correct). <Yes, and all too typical> This seems like such a simple question but the best descriptions describe the bottom of the foot as a disc which I think should be closed but I can't find any pictures/drawings looking up at the bottom. <Take a read over the anemone sections posted on the site: www.wetwebmedia.com  and the links page connection to "The Breeder's Registry"... and beyond... the basal or pedal disc of wild-collected anemones is problematical. I do hope yours rallies. Bob Fenner>
Re: Help, of course! Hey, thanks for the quick and reassuring reply regarding my best guess about top and bottom. Whew! I was afraid I had the poor thing upside down. On top of collecting and shipping that would probably be the final insult. <Ah, perhaps...> Just a note about your comment about your book. It should have stayed over 1,000 pages (Clancy novels are this long now and not nearly as helpful). <Think of/for the trees! Have mercy, we'd have had aquarists with the biceps of Ahnold!> The longer the better. Several volumes would be even better. I have in my own library: Fenner, Tullock, Spotte, Delbeek and Sprung, Fautin and Allen, Wilkinson, Moe, Emmons, Andrews, Adey and Loveland, Loiselle and Baensch. Friese, Haywood and Wells, and others whose authors I can't recall offhand.  <Great company. You honor me> None of these books were helpful for my question of the day. The FAQ's and answers on wet media are great, BUT... It is difficult to group them in a logical manner so that they read like a textbook. They are very repetitious.  <Agreed. And thank you for this... Am endeavoring, every day, to make the WWM site more logical, functional... much, much more to put on... and an unbelievable time consumer... Great fun... And a few other printed volumes backed up over the last few years... Here's hoping some will see the light of day soon... Not to go overboard here, but it is indeed difficult to write articles versus books versus articles... The development of clear concepts, possibly new terminology into cohesive, accurate, significant and meaningful works is daunting... not knowing what the intended Reader may know, have read... You can understand how difficult this seems... not knowing the background, ability/interest level of the audience... Many are mere children, others foreigners, still others odd scientists and industry folk...> I guess we amateurs all have the same or nearly the same questions. What I would love is if you could spare the time to edit this material to make it part of a chapter on Anemones in book like CMA or something like that. The fact that we all ask the same questions over and over and that this information appears in no book to my knowledge just begs for a new publication. There are many books that are surveys (of anemones for example) with really nice graphics. But because of this they offer little in depth about any one anemone and little in depth on the entire subject. I think we need a chapter or book that just covers in depth the anemones that are most likely to be available in the trade. <Agreed. Perhaps you will be the person to see such a work/creation to reality?> Why not a series of monographs on various aquarium animals that is in depth and very practical - oriented to the hobbyist not to the amateur marine biologist? <Very good ideas...> Hope I'm not too pushy about this suggestion, but I'd sure buy the series. Thanks again for your help and on a Sunday too. <Anytime my friend in fish. Bob Fenner><<From the mouths of... Ala a new e- and print on demand re Anemones in Captivity. B, 2014>>

Is my anemone dying? >To who it may concern, >>Well, my name isn't "who", it's Marina but I'm the one concerned today.   >Yesterday I received two green bulb anemones in the mail. I added them into my tank at two different locations. One of the anemones find a spot on the live rock and is looking great. The second one had a white fleshy substance coming out of its mouth when I was putting it into the tank. >>I'm assuming that you wanted to receive these animals, and assuming such, I would recommend that you would contact the shipper immediately when an animal arrives in poor condition. >Well that one has released a lot of this substance and is now releasing a pinkish substance out of its mouth. >>If this seems to be attached to the animal, then I believe that it is eviscerating (spitting out its guts), and if this is the case, it is severely stressed and yes, it's probably dying. >It has considerably shrink in size. It released a lot of cloudy looking water also. Is my anemone dying or is this some reaction to the shipping? >>One reaction to shipping is dying. >The anemone is still holding onto the rock. >>The best you can do is ensure pristine water conditions and hope for the best.  But, if it begins to come apart do save yourself the troubles and remove it from your display ASAP. >My water specs (taken at 8:30pm last night) are pH 8.2, KH 9, NH3 .08, Calcium level 500 ppm. >>Whoa!  You have VERY high Ca. levels.  If you're dosing, I suggest stopping/adjusting your schedule.  Also, while your nitrate readings are very low, I'm not sure that they're conducive to good anemone health.  However, they are so low (assuming you're using a good quality, reliable test kit) that I would not look to them to be the cause of the trouble you may be observing.  I *would*, however, take a close look at your acclimation procedures.  For sensitive animals such as anemones, I, personally, much prefer a VERY slow drip acclimation into a quarantine system for observation.  I prefer this acclimation to take 3-5 hours, unless the water the animal was shipped in was of such poor quality that it required immediate correction. >Please help as it is a beautiful green/purple bulb anemone and would love to save it.   Sincerely, Wayne Sprouse >>I'm not sure you can save it, but don't try to move it if it's attached to any surface.  Perform a water change (minimum 30%), as I'm not sure that such a high Ca. reading is a good thing, though your other readings appear to be decent (excepting that tinge of nitrate, which the water change would help a wee bit).  I would also contact the shipper immediately, ESPECIALLY if they offer a live ship guarantee.  Sorry I can't be of more help or more definitive, but beyond this if it were my specimen I would do what I've outlined and wait and watch.  Also, do a Google search on our homepage for "Bubble Tip Anemone" (or BTA) for more information.  Best of luck, Wayne.  Marina