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The Hoof-Print Story They are beautiful. As you gaze at the graceful,
flowing fins and spectacular colours, the store owner wanders over and
extols the virtues of these gorgeous Betta splendens; exotic Siamese
Fighting Fish that can be kept in bowls (that she also happens to
sell). You explain you've just come in for some cat food, and
isn't it a bit cramped in a bowl anyway? That's when the
retailer pulls out the big guns. 'In the wild,' she explains,
'they live in hoof prints.' Sound familiar? That customers so often question
the feasibility of fish living in bowls and require retailers to
reproduce hoof-print stories suggests that deep down a little voice is
whispering something is not right. Listen to that voice. It is wise.
Although housing Bettas in bowls is convenient to humans, logically, we
know that keeping creatures native to vast tropical rice-paddies in
cold, unfiltered bowls is trouble. While technically a wild Betta may
live in a hoof print in the same way a human may live in a burning
building, any Betta left stranded in a hoof print after seasonal waters
recede will, of course, perish. While impulse purchases are responsible for many
accidental fish acquisitions, fish may also be thrust upon unsuspecting
victims by others. Here's why you should avoid inflicting fish on
your acquaintances. The Wedding Betta--When people discover I am fond
of animals and especially of fish, they often insist on telling me
their most horrifying animal-cruelty stories. It's an interesting
quirk of human nature and I don't know if this happens to other
animal-lovers, but I do know what happens to Bettas in wedding
centrepieces. Intoxicated people have all sorts of interesting
theories, one of which is fish will enjoy alcohol, since they
themselves are enjoying it so much. Consequently, what will be
remembered most about your precious day is not how great you looked,
but a bunch of dead fish. Bettas that avoid being poisoned, swallowed,
or stuffed down the fronts of wedding dresses do end up being taken
home by guests, however, and this places an unfair responsibility on
the recipient. The Goldfish Giveaway--Humans are good at many
things, but what they really excel at is telling themselves all sorts
of stories to suit their purposes: Goldfish live only a year; they grow
to the size of the bowl; they're not bored in bowls because by the
time they make the circuit they've forgotten where they started.
These Goldfish myths are so ingrained in our society that people are
genuinely shocked when they learn the average lifespan of a Goldfish is
twenty years, their failure to grow in bowls is due to stunting, and
they are used in piscine experiments because of their excellent
memories. When you give away a Goldfish as a prize, one of two things
will happen. Most likely the recipient will place the Goldfish in a
bowl in which it will languish until it dies prematurely. Or, there is
the slightest of possibilities that your Goldfish recipient will
purchase a thirty-gallon aquarium system and two more Goldfish. However
they will not be thinking fondly of you at this point. Scenario one is
inhumane to the Goldfish, while scenario two is inhumane to the
recipient. This is why humane societies recommend never giving animals
as gifts. Whether you've swallowed the hoof-print
story, rescued a wedding Betta, or won a Goldfish at ring-toss, you
have a new aquatic resident swimming about in the human-equivalent of a
burning building. After a few dark thoughts directed towards the
fish-giver/hoof-print storyteller, you are determined to create a
proper home, set an example for your children, and have a bit of fun
without breaking the bank. Very good; follow me, accidental aquarist,
while we set up an easy aquarium. Acquiring the Aquarium and Gear Be aware that upon visiting your local fish or
department store, you will be met with a veritable shotgun blast of bad
products backed by brilliant marketing. There are fish bowls, of
course, but the most notorious of Stupid Pet Products is the small,
themed, novelty 'aquarium.' Although your child may fancy the
idea of their fish swimming about characters like Spongebob
Squarepants, they may lose some enthusiasm after said fish floats
belly-up while Monsieur Squarepants continues to goggle away. The
trouble with these units is that they are simply too small. Too small
to dilute metabolic wastes, too small to accommodate a heater and
filter, too small to get in some decent swimming. So give Spongebob and
his animated cohorts a pass and get it right from the start.
The fishkeeping hobby is notorious for
beginners getting out of it rather quickly. This is a shame, but you
can profit from it by purchasing used equipment cheaply, and avoid the
same fate by researching, as you are now! The glut of used aquaria on
local list services is rivalled only by foot-long Plecos. Try to
purchase systems that are still set up, so you can check for leaks and
ensure all the accessories work. Bring a level with you, and only
consider aquaria that have been running planar and level.
Non-level/planar systems put strain on the silicone seals and can
result in sudden failure. Don't be tempted to place aquaria larger
than forty litres (ten gallons) on furniture not designed to hold
aquaria. Nothing puts a damper on the hobby like several dozen litres
of water all over the floor.
The Betta System Although Betta splendens requires a heated,
filtered, minimum twenty-litre (five-gallon) aquarium, second-hand
forty-litre (ten-gallon) systems are more ubiquitous, run about the
same price, and provide more stable living conditions. A used
forty-litre plus accessories cost about as much as one of those
Spongebob units; sometimes they are even free! Gentle filtration is
required, so although air-powered sponge-filters or box filters are
ideal, it's likely your system will come with a hang-on-the-back
(HOB) filter. Simply fit a chunk of aquarium sponge over the intake to
prevent those long fins from getting sucked in, and turn the filter
flow-rate down (if possible) so your Betta isn't buffeted. If your
filter uses cartridges, rather than buy refills, cut another chunk of
that aquarium sponge to size and place it where the cartridge goes. Or
fill an existing cartridge with bio-balls or ceramic rings. You'll
never have to replace these; simply rinse/squeeze them in tank water
periodically during water changes. Keep your Betta at 26-28 degrees
Celsius (80-82 Fahrenheit). An entire industry has sprung up around
housing the Betta. You need water conditioner, but you don't need
special Betta water conditioner; this is the same water conditioner
sold for regular aquaria except much diluted (and much more expensive).
Special Betta food is also more expensive, and can lead to constipation
if fed exclusively. A quality staple tropical flake or pellet augmented
with cooked, shelled peas and frozen foods is
ideal. The Goldfish System If you are on a budget, I hope your new
fish is not a Goldfish. Because Goldfish are expensive. Yes, the fish
may have been free, but housing the fish is not. Goldfish like company,
so you will require two more Goldfish. Three Goldfish require a minimum
115-litre (30-gallon) aquarium, and ideally 200-litres (55 gallons).
They also require massive filtration, so that HOB filter claiming it
will filter up to 30 gallons isn't going to cut it. You'll need
a filter that has a turnover rate of six times the volume of the
aquarium per hour. On the plus side, Goldfish usually
don't require a heater in centrally-heated homes. Again, large used
systems may be acquired inexpensively. Feed your Goldfish mostly greens
like peas, Sushi Nori, lettuce, and aquarium plants, and augment with a
commercial food. Aquascaping Substrate--Substrates affectionately known
as 'clown puke' -- fluorescent gravels that are unsightly,
expensive, and a poor choice for growing plants, are extremely popular.
That so many hobbyists choose to carpet their aquariums with the stuff
is mystifying. Marbles are also popular, and not with just the
under-twelve crowd. The problem is they disconcert fish with all sorts
of odd reflections, food and waste become trapped beneath them, and
cultivating rooted plants will be impossible. An excellent alternative is simple play
sand, pool-filter sand, or silica (silver) sand from your local garden
centre or home-improvement store. Rinsed thoroughly and added to a
depth of 5-8 cm (2-3 inches), these are inexpensive, natural-looking,
and excellent for growing plants, especially with the addition of
fertilizer tablets. A bottle of liquid aquarium-plant fertilizer may
also be employed and lasts a long time. Decorations You may recall fondly the air-powered
burping clam of your childhood or the even more sophisticated
modern-day 'bubbling bum.' There's no need to use your
electricity and money on these ornaments when you can find perfectly
serviceable substitutes around the house.
Coconut Shells--Boil the shells a few
times, draining the dark tannin-stained water between boilings. This
will prevent your aquarium water from becoming coconut-shell tea.
Coconut half-shells can be used to pot aquatic plants; add a door and
they make nifty caves. Terracotta Pots--Ensure these are unglazed
and unused. Break them in half to make quick, attractive caves, or pot
up some plants and fill the top with rocks to prevent digging fish from
uprooting them. Rocks--Those lumpy things in your garden
can often be used in aquaria. Stay away from anything sparkly,
containing metal seams, mica flakes or pesticides. Geodes or quartz may
be contaminated with toxic metals. Limestone will increase water
hardness. What you're after are smooth river stones, slate slabs,
or chunks of granite. Driftwood--Pricey at retailers, it's
tempting to collect it from local water bodies. This can be done, but
with caution. Ensure the driftwood hasn't been exposed to
pesticides or other chemicals. Strip off most of the easily removable
organic detritus; if it still has a lot of bark, it's too fresh;
look for a more weathered piece. Boil it to kill parasites, remove
tannins, and hasten the water-logging process so it will sink. I have
used locally-collected driftwood from an urban freshwater reservoir
successfully, but this practice is not without risk. On other hand,
it's great fun to go on a driftwood hunt and gratifying to find a
complicated, beautiful piece. Backgrounds--Pricey commercial aquarium
backgrounds bought off the roll tend to feature colourful scenes that
often conflict with your decor. Dark-coloured foam sheets are
waterproof, come in a myriad of solid colours, show off natural decor
well, and are available at craft/dollar stores. Cycling Cycling is the process all new aquaria must
go through to establish bacteria in the filter. These bacteria convert
the deadly ammonia that fish produce to nitrate, which is a fairly
harmless substance and removed via regular water changes. The problem
with cycling is that it may kill your fish before there are enough
bacteria to neutralize the ammonia. Experienced aquarists will cycle an
aquarium through fishless cycling; adding a source of ammonia (such as
a daily pinch of fish food) to the aquarium for the first few weeks to
establish the filter bacteria. But what if you already have the fish.
You can't do a fishless cycle, and your new pet may not survive the
cycling process, which can take three to six
weeks. Commercial bacteria-in-a-bottle products
are unreliable, and although using filter media from a friend's or
retailer's system can work, you run the risk of introducing
pathogens. You can help your fish weather cycling by performing
25%--50% daily water changes for the first three to six weeks to dilute
the toxins. But what if I told you there was a magical thing that will
protect your fish from cycling, prevent algae, and purify your water .
. . Plants Fast-growing plants will absorb the deadly
invisible waste that fish produce. Now, before you get too excited, you
should know there's a good chance the plants you purchase at your
retailer will die. Not only are many of them grown emersed (above
water), ensuring that most of the existing leaves will die once
submerged, but many will not suit your local water conditions or
temperature. Some of the plants on sale in aquarium shops are not even
aquatic!
The usual scenario is the beginner
purchases two or three plants from their local retailer. The plants end
up smothered with algae and die. The aquarist buys plastic plants. The
aquarist spends hours scrubbing algae from all those tiny plastic
leaves. The aquarist gets annoyed with scrubbing algae and puts their
aquarium on Kijiji (see previous heading 'Acquiring the Aquarium
and Gear'). The key to silently cycling your aquarium
and eradicating algae is to plant your aquarium with fast-growing stem
plants covering at least seventy-five percent of the substrate. This is
an expensive prospect if you plan to purchase plants from your
retailer. However, plants procured through local aquarium-club auctions
or on-line list services will be a fraction of the cost, grown immersed
(underwater), and suited to your water chemistry. Plants use up light
that algae would otherwise take advantage of, nutrients that harm your
fishes, and produce algae-suppressing biochemicals
(allelophathy).
For plants to thrive, they'll need
adequate lighting. A single tube in your aquarium canopy won't be
enough to grow most stem plants. Although humankind has failed to
harness the Sun's energy, you can; don't be afraid to place
your well-planted aquarium near a window. Just watch for extreme
temperature fluctuations; avoid draughty or excessively hot locations.
Easy fast-growing stem plants under bright light: Bacopa monnieri,
Hemianthus micranthemoides (Pearlweed), Hygrophila corymbosa,
Hygrophila difformis (Water Wisteria), Hygrophila polysperma,
Limnophila sessiliflora (Ambulia), Ludwigia repens, Pogostemon
stellatus, Rotala rotundifolia If you need more light than your aquarium
hood provides by default, you can purchase more lighting. Normally the
equivalent of three or four T12 fluorescent tubes will be enough for
most fast-growing stem plants. Alternatively, you can use low light
plants, although, being slow growing, these won't do much to
protect your fish from cycling. Slow-growing plants may not hold back
algae as effectively as fast-growing plants either. The key to
combating algae is to have a balanced light-to-plant ratio; don't
flood your aquarium with light, natural or otherwise, if you don't
have a lot of fast-growing plants to use it up. L Low -light, slow growing
plants: Anubias spp., Cryptocoryne wendtii, Microsorum pteropus (Java
Fern), Taxiphyllum barbieri (Java Moss) Although Bettas won't disturb plants,
Goldfish will. However, you can keep floating plants like Hornwort
(Ceratophyllum spp.), Anacharis (Elodea/Egeria/Hydrilla spp.), Duckweed
(Lemna minor), Giant Duckweed (Spirodela polyrhiza), Guppy Grass (Najas
guadalupensis), Riccia (Riccia fluitans), and Water Sprite/Indian Fern
(Ceratopteris spp.), which will function as Goldfish snacks and remove
nutrients. Understock You've got your unexpected guest
installed in its new quarters, prevented large chunks of cash from
exiting your bank account, and are experiencing a nice warm fuzzy
feeling when you suddenly think, 'He looks lonely.' Here you
must tread carefully! If you have a Betta in a 10-gallon
heavily-planted tank, you've got it easy. The tank is understocked,
nitrates are used up by plants and you can get away with monthly
(instead of the usual weekly) 25% water changes. And tank mates for
Bettas can be tricky. The problem is not the male Betta's
aggressiveness (although this may be a factor), the problem is that
thanks to decades of selective breeding the Betta is saddled with
copious amounts of tasty fins that can turn the most innocuous of
fishes into nippers. If you do decide on tank mates, be sure to have a
backup plan. You may end up having to purchase another
aquarium. Let's hope your Goldfish already has a
couple of friends. Since Goldfish can grow to the size of a football,
you're not going to have room for more fish unless you've got a
large system. Smaller sub-tropical tank mates may be viewed as food,
while things like Plecostomus will grow bigger than the Goldfish,
produce massive amounts of waste, and end up as one of those foot-long
Pleco Kijiji listings. Too many fish and you'll have to up your
weekly 25-50% water changes to twice a week or more. Nothing
discourages a budding aquarist more than an overstocked aquarium
requiring a constant treadmill of water changes. The Easy Aquarium It's one of life's happy
coincidences that the easiest aquarium is not only healthy and
beautiful, but inexpensive too. And as for that pretty bowl and bag of
sparkly marbles on which you wasted your money? Don't fret; you can
always use it as as a wedding centrepiece . . . but put a rose in
it. A Sample Betta System For About 50
Bucks!
References/Further
Reading: Fenner, R. The Siamese Fighting Fish, Betta
splendens, WetWebMedia.com Monks, N. Goldfish 101: Goldfish May Be
Popular, And They May Be Cheap, But That Doesn't Make Them Easy
Aquarium Fish, WetWebMedia.com Figure captions 1.
Bettas are popular 'gift' fish because of their
brilliant colours and small size, but that doesn't mean they're
easy to keep if you haven't planned
ahead. 2.
Placing a sponge over the intake to a hang-on-the-back
filter should make it safe enough to use with small and slow-moving
fish, even bettas. © Judy
Helfrich. 3.
Most aquarium shops sell a variety of comical knicknacks.
These aquarium ornaments are harmless enough, but beware the cartoon
character-themed aquaria that are invariably too small to be of any
use. © Neale Monks. 4.
Goldfish need to be kept in an aquarium, not a bowl, with 30
gallons/115 litres being the minimum suitable for 2-3 adults.
© Neale Monks. 5.
Decorating your aquarium doesn't have to be expensive or
difficult; here's a simple but effective arrangement using easy to
grow plant species, terracotta pots, sand, pebbles, and a few pieces of
driftwood. © Judy Helfrich. 6.
Hygrophila polysperma is one of the easiest stem
plants to grow, given bright light. Under poor light all you'll get
is long stems and small leaves. © Judy
Helfrich. 7.
Provided the water temperature doesn't get too high,
above 82 F/28 C, sunlight can be used to boost the growth of aquarium
plants without the need for adding extra lights to the aquarium hood.
© Judy Helfrich.
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