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Crack 3/4/19 Chip Out of Fish Tank Corner
1/8/08 Hi, I just purchased a used 75 gallon fish tank and noticed
that the top plastic trim is cracked in the upper right corner. I also
noticed that a small chip has been gouged out of the corner of the tank
itself. It does not look like the glass has any cracks in it.
<Good.> Just rather that maybe when it was stored, something
bumped into it. <Fairly common and likely.> It is in the very
front right corner, so it appears that the glass is now thinner in this
area of the corner. Does this weaken the glass? <Technically, yes.
But, if the chip is fairly small and there are no cracks coming off it
you will be fine.> Will it cause the tank strength to be lessened
and not be able to hold the water when I fill it? <It shouldn't
leak so long as the silicone seal is not affected by the chip.> If
so, is there any type of filler that can be used to this area that
might help it? <I wouldn't worry about filling it in.> Please
help? <If you have concerns of the tank leaking, fill it outside and
test it for a few days. Minor chips on the corners of tanks are common
and generally no big deal. It is when the chip is deep in the pane of
glass, effects the silicone seal, or radiates small crack(s) that the
chips cause concern. You can contact the manufacturer of the tank and
order a new top trim if you like. The damage you describe to the trim
can be fixed with a plastic epoxy if you want. You can usually find it
with the glues at most hardware stores.> Thanks so much!!!! Bobbie
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.> Small Chip 12/23/07 Hello, <Sean> I have purchased a used Red Sea Max aquarium and have noticed a very small chip on the outside back panel of the glass. As the max has an overflow, this chip is on the overflow panel rather than the main aquarium panel. It appears to be a surface nick (less than 1/2" wide and just few mm deep). Since the overflow only holds 5 gallons of water I was wondering if I need to be worried about this chip and if so, if I should try and repair ? Thanks! Sean <I would not likely be concerned here... re the size and type/place of this chip. Bob Fenner>
Chip outside new 72G glass tank 10/15/07 Hello, I just finished setting up my new 72G glass tank (bow face) and, after the first night, I noticed a small chip on the outside right at the intersection of the bow with the right side of the tank. Could it just be the result of "settling"? There is no leak and it appears that it's a surface chip. Question: should I ignore it, or should I replace? Note: the tank is pretty level - might be a bit off on the opposite side of where the chip is (meaning to level it perfectly, would require a small raising of the opposite end of the tank from the chip)- which leads me to think that the chip is not the result of the leveling. Thanks in advance, Tejas <Greetings. Glass chips not so much because of "settling" as from careless transportation. The fact that the tank isn't precisely level almost certainly doesn't have any bearing on the chip you can see. An aquarium should be as level as you can possibly make it though. But slight deviations don't matter too much. Glass is strong but brittle, so while it resists the static force of water very well, if it bumps into something hard, it cracks or chips. Conchoidal fractures (chips that look like scallop shells) are very typical of glass being struck against something like stone or metal. As for whether this is a problem: if you're looking for a guarantee that everything will be fine, I can't provide one. Glass aquaria are only predictable when they are in perfect condition. As soon as they are damaged, the explosive forces of the static weight of water can concentrate on that single "weak spot", and the chances of failure increase. You might be lucky, and the chip will cause no problems. But you might not be lucky, and a year from now the tank will Cracked freshwater tank -- 10/9/07 I have a 45 gal. long with a crack on the bottom. it is about 14 in. long and goes from one wall to the other going caddy-corner. I got it from a friend who had before me and he sealed it with 2 plates of 5/8" in. thick glass with silicone between the plates and the tank. before setup I took all the trim (except the plates. couldn't get them off) and resealed it and the crack with silicone. it sprung a leak at the bottom of the tank on the face at the joint. just a pinhole. sealed it once more and let it set for 48 hours. I got the leak down to a slow drip, but would like it to stop. I don't have money to buy a new tank but I have 3 tubes of all purpose silicone that is waterproof with mold deterrent (sorry for the spelling). what should I do and how can I get the plates off to do a full fix instead of fixing around it. thank you for your time. Andrew <Andrew, I sympathise! I was in the same situation a few months ago. Personally, I'm not one for repairing tanks because of the potential damage that can be caused if you make a mistake. Check to see if your tank is covered in your home insurance as well, in which case replacing the tank won't cost you anything at all. Anyway, there's a whole slew of articles on repairing tanks in the 'Aquarium Repairs' section of this page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/index.htm . Cheers, Neale> Question, chipped glass tank 7/17/07 Hello WWM, I was just given a 100 gal aquarium that has 2 chips in the corners. They are sea shell shaped chips that slightly touch the silicon, which I'm sure is not good. I have read several of the other questions you have answered from people who have similar situations. From reading those responses I am convinced that the tank can fail because of the chips. My question is: Would it prevent the tank from breaking on that corner if I reinforced it with something like a PVC elbow and 100% silicon on the inside and the outside? <No or at least very minimally...> I am planning on building this tank into the wall so the chipped edge would be unseen, it can be ugly as long as it works. You guys usually tell people who have had similar questions to "give it a try", which I am willing to do. <I am not so cavalier in general... I would at the least Silicone a length of glass (of at least two inches width, over the outside and chipped areas... the height of the panel> I guess I would like to know if you have ever done anything like this and had it work or is there a better way. Of course, if the tank blows up on me I won't get mad at you guys, I just appreciate the advice. If it would help I could send some photos. Thanks for your help. Craig <There are extreme possible dangers in such a "blowing up"... Consider the suggested repair/band-aid. Bob Fenner> New 260 litres with corner chip and crack 7/12/07 Greetings from Canada. Great site! I've been reading your site since I got my 20g :) Recently I bought a new Hagen Fluval Osaka 260 tank with stand at closing LFS. During transport I noticed left corner at the back of the tank has small chip (frameless tank with aluminum brace covering front and sides panels). Good thing the small glass grains didn't cut my palm. Looks like that corner got struck before and I didn't see that in that under lighting LFS. Once I setup it up in my basement I noticed there is a small crack 2" length at the back panel close to that corner but doesn't extend to joint. No leak so far for 3 days now and the crack is not growing. It appears to be growing from inside glass to outside but haven't reach outside. I will double check if the crack is inside the tank (not only inside the glass). | | | | left | / |__________ bottom (view from front) Since it's final sale I contacted Hagen for warranty and still waiting for a response. Meanwhile what should I do? <Lower the water level half or more...> I plan to move in few months so should I plan to patch that crack and test before I move? <I would, yes> If I go with the patch, should I patch inside or outside or both (I prefer outside since it's easier)? <The outside... with a strip/panel of glass... as/at I see below where you've been reading> I read all Aquarium Repair FAQs and I would rather not go with replacing back panel is possible. Many thanks! Norick <Welcome! Bob Fenner>
Cracked Aquarium Bargain! -- 06/14/07 After spending an hour and a half skimming through your site trying to find an answer to my question, I found conflicting answers, so I decided to email you to get a final ruling. <Interesting. I typed "repair" into the search box on the first page, and came up with whole bunch of pages on aquarium repairs, such as this... http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqrepairfaqs.htm > > There is an aquarium on craigslist for 75 dollars that I was thinking of buying. It's a 75 gallon rectangle tank, stand, lights, and filter. The catch is there is a crack on the bottom of the tank (See picture). Now, I know that it is very expensive to get the glass replaced and much more worth it to buy a new tank. However, someone said to me that she had the same problem, put a new piece of glass on top of the old piece, sealed it, and it has held fine. All in all, it cost her 36 dollars to do her 40 gallon tank like that. Is this something you would advise? > Thank you! <If you're good with DIY and are willing to take a gamble, sure, it's worth a shot. Worst case, you get a decent set of hardware and simply replace the tank with a new one. But if you do try repairing a tank, read up all the tricks first, take your time, clean the tank thoroughly, take appropriate safety measures, get a friend to help, and DO THE JOB SOMEWHERE WATERPROOF so you can check for leaks. Ideally, work outdoors if its nice and dry where you are. Me, I'd by the set-up, take the tank to the recycling depot (for the glass), and then go buy a nice new 75 gallon tank. Cheers, Neale> Re: banded bamboo shark... in a tank that went kaplooee! -- 5/25/07 Thanks for your reply unfortunately since I mailed you ,what was a small crack at the top of my tank has shot down from one corner of the tank to the middle and back up to the other corner! <Yeeikes!> I could hardly believe my eyes. There (naturally!) was gallons of water all over the carpet and the fish have all been moved to my 180l quarantine tank. Thought this was worth telling you guys incase anyone else out there like me thinks a little crack is not a threat. A CRACKED TANK IS ALWAYS A BROKEN TANK! Thank you for letting me air my stress! Cheers, Andrew. <Hope all dries, but not the livestock... hope they all survive! BobF>
Crack in glass tank'¦ 4/1/07 Hey guys, you seem like the authorities <Well Bob hasn't given me my badge yet or a/my M-16, hehe.> Hi, do you know anything about aquarium repair? <Anything? Yes'¦> We just brought a 3 by one foot tank home and it cracked at the bottom edge. <Just bought? Is return possible?> Its about a two inch crack near the bottom that extends to the very bottom corner in the silicon sealing region. <That's not good.> The top part is a hairline crack that may not even leak, but is at the edge of the sealant, <That worries me.> it then veers out into the pane before coming back and ending in the bottom corner where its cracked all the way through, also touching the silicon. Is there any way to patch from the inside, scraping the old silicone away and using a small piece of glass on the inside and possibly even the outside? <No if it is a true 'crack' and not just a chip 'the tank silicone would have to removed, the entire tank disassembled, the broken glass plane replaced 'the silicone would have to be redone and allowed to cure. I wouldn't take chances with a crack in the glass and the living room floor, the crack will spread and weaken the tank overtime.> Or make a right angled piece of glass on the outside around the cracked area completely sealed. Will that absorb the pressure. <No.> Or should I replace the whole panel and scrape and reseal the whole tank, which I really don't want to. <If not this 'the only choice is a new tank.> Is there any chance just a patch would work, even if you absolutely coated the repair piece with silicon? <Unfortunately no, this wouldn't be reliable.> Cheers, Eric <Adam J.> Question about crack in the tank 03/07/06 Greetings, my name is Murphy and I have a question about a crack in the back panel of my 35 gallon glass tank. The problem, prior to the crack, was a small insidious leak from the back of a threaded bulkhead in the upper right-hand corner of my tank. I went ahead and attempted to tighten the bulkhead up even more to see whether that would alleviate the leak. Well, needless to say I tightened a wee bit too much and ended up with a crack going from where the glass had been cut out to make room for the bulkhead up to the top of the tank. Now, I went ahead and applied silicone aquarium sealant to both the inside and outside surfaces of the crack. though I should mention the crack seems to have not breeched the outside of the tank and just stayed inside, and you can see the crack taper up to the point where it meet the hole that was cut out for the bulkhead. I'm in dire need of advice. can I get by with just the sealant, or is this going to either A) necessitate the purchasing of a new tank or B) replacing the back panel of the tank all together. Considering that the crack is small and it's at the top of the back panel, i figured it wont be exposed to much water pressure whatsoever. And also, again, it appears to have not gone all the way through to the other side of the glass, but i understand better safe than sorry. <It is probably best to just replace the aquarium...on a tank so small and inexpensive it would be more costly and more of a hassle to replace the pane of glass. The sealant may work but what happens if you are not home/on vacation and it breaks? It's better to be safe than sorry. You wouldn't want 35 gallons of water all over your living room floor. Good luck, IanB> sincerely and with beaucoup thanks, Murphy Conn Griffin New aquarium cracked/shipped - 2/5/06 Hey! I bought a new, second hand, fish tank to day, quite large about1m long 30cm wide and 40cm tall (for £10!!!!), <sounds like a good deal> but as I was getting it in my house I clipped it on my garden wall and it has taken quite a big chip out of the corner and a crack is running about 6cm down it. <Oh no!> Is there a way i can repair it (because I cant afford a new tank!!) The chip might've been OK, but the crack sounds far too dodgy... Only option likely left is to replace the side panel(s) with new glass. Depending on the glass shops you approach, it may be cheaper/easier to hunt around on message boards or auction sites for another tank.> If you could help that would be great! Thanks Robyn <Best regards, John> Chips in tank 5/28/06 Hello, <Mornin'> I have spent some considerable time trying to locate an answer to my question, with no luck so far. I had recently acquired a used 75 gallon aquarium. Since it is about 5 or so years of age, the scratches on the tank did not concern me. There is a chip on the outside edge of the tank, but the glass is very thick and it looks only to be a surface nick. Do I need to be concerned about that? <Maybe yes/no... Less so if "near the top", not deep/large...> As far as I can see, it's not near the silicone. The tank has been set up for about 2 weeks now, with fish and plants in it for the last week and a half. While maintaining the tank today, I noticed some chips/nicks on the inside of the tank walls. I'm not sure if they were there when I first acquired the tank or if they somehow recently appeared (though I wouldn't know how). I am using a Coralife lighting system with full spectrum lights for the plants, which can cause the water to get hotter, even though the lights come with fans. I have also installed another fan which is helping to circulate the air under the canopy and keep the water temp down, but the temperature of the water is still slightly over what the heater is set at. It varies around 80-81 degrees (which I have been told by a fish "expert" that that is no cause of concern; although it did get to 82 degrees today, but not sure if that is influenced by the room temp being at 81-82, not yet using the AC). <This should be fine> Anyway, the chips/nicks are very small, the biggest one no larger than the pinpoint of a pen and they are in the middle of the glass, not anywhere near the silicon sealant; there are a handful or so on the same panel though very small in size. Should I be concerned about these chips? <Seems like you are... but likely no problem> I don't want to come home to a carpet full of water and dead fish/plants, so it has me a little worried. Any suggestions as to how I can seal or fix the chips, apart from buying a new tank (which is something I would prefer not to do, especially since the glass of this tank is very thick). Thank you for any help you can provide! Michella <Mmm, some glass can be "filled"... some shallow pitting can be "ground down"... but these are very likely cost-prohibitive (more than a new tank). If the tank is fine thus far, it will likely continue to be. Bob Fenner> Overflow Crack ? 12/20/06 Greetings WWM. Am very excited to be mailing the gods of aquaria. <"Always thought I'd be an apostle/disciple"... in my best Superstar voice...> Lots of info here - please let me know your feelings ... <It's very pleasant, warm down here visiting in FLA... and I'd really like a cool beer... oh, that's not what you were hoping for> thanks. Got a reef ready for fresh water Glasscages 55x23x28 inside-water = 150 net gal with a modified, (w/lotsa work), 45 gal "pre-made" Glasscages acrylic sump to a wet-dry. Did my homework, it's been three months of work, used sched 80, silicone and glue in all the right places. It is on the main floor, 3/4 in. Brazilian mahogany, over a weight bearing wall, finished basement below - usa homeowners insurance no coverage (unless vandals/fire/nature).? Any recommend? <Mmm, call your agent here re coverage itself> Used double felt on floor under oversized 5/8 in. plywood foot under modified, (w/lotsa work), wood cabinet carefully leveled/flat with linoleum, (felt allows easy sliding everything without water-nice). <Good tip> Used 3/4 in. pink foam (as per Glasscages 90 day warr) and linoleum between stand and tank, to make flat/level. The tank, (very Euro braced), is very flat/level all four sides, with or without water, as measured on the top plastic trim and/or glass. Top of water to inside bottom of Euro glass is 1 1/8 in. all four corners. Have two center-end, three-side 7x10x29 in. overflows with two 1 1/2 + 1 in. bulkheads ea. <Mmm, wish these were larger inside diameter... even if fewer in number> Tank glass is 1/2 in, overflows and Euro brace surrounding the bottoms of overflows, etc is 3/8 in. Used 1 1/2 in deep half in. Mex Beach grey-black pea gravel - beautiful.? Is it ok? <For?> Have had water in it for two months. Ultimately did the fish free cycle thing with 2-5 ppm ammonia (Ace Janitor Ammonia - comes @ 10% strength) 1 tbs at a time until nitrate spike. <Mmm, such exogenous ammonia can be made to be of use...> Took three weeks and worked great. Three ppm ammonia vanishes in two days now. Am planning to get all the fish together from the distributor in one visit, via the best LFS, (fish will never be in the LFS tanks, they recommended this - sounded good), and put them all in at one time, (after major water change).? Think this will work? <Mmm, possibly... hopefully no, little nitrogenous, other cycling issues... You're doing this to lessen the chances of agonistic behavior? To save time, money on freight? What re quarantine procedures?> ... so ... After six weeks of water, the side of an overflow cracked from the bottom outside corner, where the tank bottom meets the side, up 10 inches at a 45 degree angle, towards the center of the tank, across the whole width of the side of the overflow. The overflow trickle leaks into the overflow only, at the crack, when empty. There is no outside leak. This means if there is a power failure, the 29 in high homemade 1 1/2 in. Durso standpipe will drain the tank down about five inches from top, (to the bottom of the inverted trap/street L), overflowing the wet dry sump by maybe 20 gals. The Glasscages recommends drain, cut out the caulking ... silicone a glass patch to the inside or outside of the cracked pane, and re-caulk. <Yes... this is what I would do as well> They say this normally happens because of homeowner leveling/flattening problems. Wish I could find an angle off on this stuff so I could correct it and have more confidence.? <Mmm, floors under load are often different then when tanks are empty... a good idea to fashion something... at least a piece of plywood under all to even all out a bit... better to make a more standard support (two plus by...) and set the tank/stand on this... But, it may well be that an investment in a structural engineer is in your future here.... See your "Yellow Pages"...> Am hopeful it was just a glitch, like a pre-existing crack/chip, or glass measurements/tolerances off, or forgot/didn't put enough silicone under that piece - oops. Is this a coin flipper, or what do you guys think? <Glass Cages make good products in my estimation... Impossible to tell re all the work from here> Will wait for your wisdom before I do anything ... and ... I have a fish dream. <"Brothers and sisters"> Am starting them together as juvenile's. 5 veil angels, 8 boesemanni rainbows, 8 Congo's, 5 clown loaches, 3 Bala's(-or-3 tinfoil barbs), 1 gold Severum, 1 stripe headstander, 1 red hook silver dollar, and 3 Siamese algae eaters.? Is this a good load for my 175 net gals? How would you modify? <Mmm... well... I'd settle on either a more calm (centering on the Angels) or brisk (Tinfoils and Red hook) mix/theme here...> ... aanndd ... Am planning a battery back-up to run an air stone. Could you recommend a comparable/ better air pump than the super Luft 38 - 22w (also, to put in the cabinet to keep the moisture down, and run a stone with a one way check valve)? <There is no better choice IMO> ... Is there a comp/better heater than a won bro titanium pro? ... Is there a recommended battery air pump? ... Mucho Thanks for your help, Andy <I do like this heater... Bob Fenner> Tank Repair Hi I've read through your FAQ on repairs. I just bought a second-hand 2ft*2ft*4ft tank (about 100 gallons I think - we work in litres in the UK) and managed to crack one of the end panels quite badly. The way I see it I have two options: Brace it both inside and out - which I'm pretty sure would be strong enough as the tank has built in glass corner filters and lots of bracing. It won't look pretty but would it hold? the tank is made of 10mm glass. So I was thinking of bracing it with 10mm on the outside ( a complete panel over the whole thing) and 8mm on the inside. Or I can dismantle the whole thing and replace the panel and re-glue it. I've built tanks previously - nothing quite this big but I'm pretty confident. This would be a nightmare however because of all the bracing and built in corner filters (10mm glass no less). Is there anything I can use to dissolve the silicone glue if I go for this option? Please don't recommend I buy new because it's almost not an option - prices over here for tanks are not cheap. To buy the glass and glue would be the fraction of the cost of another tank - even a second hand one. I got an amazingly good deal when I bought this one. (the usual price for a second hand 25 gallon). Any suggestions/recommendations would be helpful. Thanks, Mr. Meirion Jones <Hi Mr. Jones, I would recommend replacing the panel with an exact replica from your glass/glazing store. Probably the best tool for removing the silicone is a sharp razor knife...be careful to cut only where you intend. Make sure you cut down to clean glass and plastic or metal frame, then reseal with new silicone to adhere where needed to avoid leaks. Sorry I don't have any shortcuts. Should make a nice tank when it's repaired! Good Luck! Craig> Cracked tank Hi <Hi Meirion, PF with you here tonight> I've read through your FAQ on repairs. I just bought a second-hand 2ft*2ft*4ft tank (about 100 gallons I think - we work in litres in the UK <Yep, that's approximately what I get, about 430 litres>) and managed to crack one of the end panels quite badly. <Ouch> The way I see it I have two options: Brace it both inside and out -which I'm pretty sure would be strong enough as the tank has built in glass corner filters and lots of bracing. <Don't underestimate the force generated by all that water> It won't look pretty but would it hold? <I'm not sure, my field of engineering is telecom, not materials or hydrodynamics. But, going on gut instinct, I'd have to say no> the tank is made of 10mm glass. So I was thinking of bracing it with 10mm on the outside ( a complete panel over the whole thing) and 8mm on the inside. Or I can dismantle the whole thing and replace the panel and re-glue it. <IMO, you should go that route. A pain I know, but better safe than sorry.> I've built tanks previously - nothing quite this big but I'm pretty confident. This would be a nightmare however because of all the bracing and built in corner filters (10mm glass no less). Is there anything I can use to dissolve the silicone glue if I go for this option? <I've looked on the web, but I can't find anything. It seems to me the best option would be to remove the broken pieces and remove the remaining silicon with a razor.> Please don't recommend I buy new because it's almost not an option - prices over here for tanks are not cheap. <Ok, I'll hold my tongue> To buy the glass and glue would be the fraction of the cost of another tank - even a second hand one. I got an amazingly good deal when I bought this one. (the usual price for a second hand 25 gallon). Any suggestions/recommendations would be helpful. Thanks Mr. Meirion Jones <Hopefully that helps. I'd recommend you check with the DIYers over on the forum: http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/ or at OZ reef's DIY page: ozreef.org/diy/ Have a good night, PF> Crack in My 150 Gallon Tank!! I just moved over the weekend
and during the move I cracked the back glass on my 150 gallon tank!!
the crack is in the shape of an "U". It is in the middle of
the glass. I live in Inglewood, Ca (near Los Angeles). Where can I get
the tank repaired? LaTrice <Bummer :( The best I could say is
to contact local glass shops or fish stores to find someone to do this.
Good luck, Don>
Fix-a-Chip? >Hello, >>Hello. >I have a 45 gallon tank I bought about 6 years ago. I moved it about a year after I bought it and found that there was a small chip in the corner on the outside of the tank. The silicone inside was still in good condition. I filled it, and used it as a marine home for my 2 clowns, Firefish, and shrimp. About a year and-a-half ago I moved again and bought a 46 gallon bow-front. I put the 45 gallon out in my garage in case I wanted to use it later. (It is currently sitting just on the garage floor) My question is, as I live in Wisconsin and it gets very cold and because of the chip, could there be any further damage to the tank that I should no longer use it? I have watched the chips closely in the changing temperatures and no cracks have started. >>It is less likely that the chip itself would present a problem than it is the silicone would. Even if there were cracks beginning, there are a couple of different ways to make repairs. I would let it be, and do the usual routine before using it again (fill it with water in an area that WON'T be damaged should it leak - let it set for two to three days). Marina Fix a crack Back again, different subject... I have a 96x30x30 glass aquarium 10mm thick glass. During a move the tank was set on a tiny stone (fish tank type tiny little stone!) and a crack about 10 inches long was the result. I have heard of repairing glass tanks with another piece of glass placed upon it and silicone to hold it together, (The tank is laminated glass, but I am still worried about refilling it!) How is the silicone placed on the break? Is it placed on the break and the glass overlaid or is it placed on the cover piece and all over? also, what size should I use to cover the crack? Thanks! <Is the crack in the bottom pane? I would have a 3/16" or 1/4" or equivalent sheet of acrylic/Perspex cut to fit the inside bottom, as close to the edge as possible... and silicone all around the edge as well as the cracked area... AND a smaller piece of the same material cut and fit over the crack from the bottom... AND set the tank up empty, fill it with water (after the silicone cures a few days) and see if this repair is going to hold. KNOW that these sorts of breaks can be EXTREMELY dangerous... if the tank gives way it not only will cause a huge mess, it could result in very serious injury, even death to anyone near or under it at the time. Bob Fenner> Big cracks in Hello, <I say a greeting> I found a 55g the other day, needless to say one of the short side panels has multiple cracks running the length of the pane. I think my options on fixing it are removing and replacing the whole pane. I'm not sure that siliconing a pane on either side of the broken pane will be effective or safe. Am I correct in my thinking? <Not worth trying... best to cut out old one, replace entirely> I would rather not tear the tank down, clean and rebuild it as the cost of a piece of plate glass would be close to what I can buy a used non cracked tank for. <Bingo! If cost is the only or primary consideration, I would buy a new tank, make the old one into a non-aquarium... perhaps a terrestrial planted paludarium...> Now that I have dragged this into the basement though, I would like to do something with it. I am wondering if 55's are made with plate glass or tempered glass? <Almost all with plate> If it is plate, I think I can cut it for lids for some other tanks, use the good panes for a plywood tank, or cut the panes and put them back together as a smaller tank. I do have some experience cutting single and double strength glass from the hardware store. I've never done anything that big though. Thanks for any advice. Peace, -Z- <I would get some help... have a glass shop cut the glass for you if you have any concerns... or lack a cutting table big enough... Bob Fenner> Repair plans I have a 72 gallon bow front. I developed a crack in the center bottom of the back panel. I know without replacing the panel the tank is shot with regards to fish. However I am considering partitioning off the tank so the back center of the tank would remain totally dry while the front and sides would contain water. It would then be designed into a herp tank. My question for you is this. How deep can I make the water without threatening tank integrity. <Likely enough... a few inches (3,4) > I would like to take the water depth up to 5-6 inches to allow for a good aquatic environment. This would put water about 5 inches above the weak point in the tanks back. The crack would be sealed and patched and glass siliconed in to isolate about a 10 x 12 area that would hold small potted plants and substrate. Do you think this would be to deep? <With this repair you should be fine> I know about old and new silicone troubles and will use acetone to prepare for the interior walls. Thanks, Kathy Brinson-Wagner <I say press on with your project. Bob Fenner> Cracked >I was writing in regards to my cracked fish tank. I believe it is a 35 gallon fish tank and we had a crack from the bottom to half way up the side of the tank. It is an octagon fish tank and it was not cracked completely through to the inside so we decided instead of trying to take the glass out, we would just get another piece and put it on the inside of the tank and seal it back up and see how that would work. Well while checking it for leaks the glass on the outside cracked even further all the way up the tank but it was only the outside not the inside. Is there any suggestions that you would have for us other then what we've done? We plan on taking the glass we put in back out and trying to seal it better this time, because the first time we didn't spread the silicone flat we just put it in as smoothly as we could. Could that have been the problem? Thanks for your time. Tasha Duncan >>Well, Tasha, that would depend on whether or not the crack extends to any joints. If so, then the only repair is to remove ALL the silicone (and I mean every little bit) and replace the panel. A local fish shop might be willing to do this for you. If you want to do this yourself, then search our site on "aquarium repair". I and others have outlined methods. If the crack does not extend to any joints, then if you wish to sandwich, you MUST be sure of a few things. One; that the silicone beads have NO air bubbles in them. Two; that you place the glass, press into place, and do NOT allow it to lift at all - this will create bubbles. Three; the glass being used to sandwich MUST at least be as thick as the original, and it MUST extend to all sides, corners, etc. Essentially what you're trying to do is completely seal off the crack from all water access, while creating a physically stable panel as well. Marina Large glass tank... cracked bottom I just purchased a 300 gallon fish tank and the bottom glass CRACKED I mean cracked during transit. I live in/around Chicago Illinois do you know anyone that safely replaces this glass? Thanks Larry Watson <Unless the crack is small, across a corner where it can be isolated, sealed over with a repair piece entirely (the whole bottom) I would do as you suggest and replace it. This is best done by the original manufacturer or their assigns (ask them where they will warrant the repair). Bob Fenner> Glass sides Acrylic Bottom Please give this your best shot, I
have a 300 gal glass tank with a broken bottom. ½'
Acrylic is much cheaper than ½' glass. Any cons to
replacing the glass bottom with an acrylic one? I have a steel plate
stand so the weight is distributed evenly. Will the silicone adhere to
the acrylic and glass properly? Thank You. Cavett Eaton <This sort
of repair can work... but not always. It is best that the existing
bottom (though cracked) be left in place AND that a piece of plywood be
cut, fit into the gap (if any) beneath it... as the acrylic will flex
considerably otherwise. Silicone does "stick" to acrylic, but
not nearly as well as to glass. Bob Fenner> 2 chips in new tank Hi bob. I have a problem with a brand new 20 gal aquarium. I just got it and it survived the drive to my house and I managed to chip the outside of one corner while rinsing it out. as you can imagine, I am pretty sick about chipping it. The small chip is about 5 or 6 inches from the top, but it appears to have a tiny crack running towards the edge of the glass, and I am afraid it will run into the inner seal. The second chip is farther down on the same corner and larger. There does not appear to be any cracking, but it etches in to the glass deeply, and the surrounding glass looks as if someone shaved it. It chipped around the corner in kind of an oval (this is on the side, by the corner) I filled it up outside so it wouldn't cause any damage, and it has not leaked yet. I would like to know if there is anything I can do. I have never resealed an aquarium. Could this damage cause the tank to burst? I live in an apartment and water damage would not be a good thing. Thanks so much for your help! Paige <Good description, bad situation... could result in catastrophic failure... I would at least seal another piece of glass over the entire chipped plate... can be eighth inch thickness... with a thin coat (no need to be continuous, but dispersed, over the cracks for sure) with 100% silicone... In all frankness, it may be less hassle, about the same expense to just buy another tank... Bob Fenner> Transferring Part 2 (chipped, cracked glass tank) Hey Bob, <Anthony Calfo sharing e-mail duty, in your service> Thanks for getting back to me so quickly....got to like that. <indeed... Bob runs a tight ship here <wink>> Since the last email I sent you, we have decided to keep the iron stand that the 125g came with (dh thought it might have been too low, but alas he changed his mind). <perhaps you folks aren't as short as I am...hehe. I'm sure I wouldn't have hesitated to keep it <G>> So we don't need to worry about trying to switch the tanks using the same stand. The 125g is on the stand and about 1/2 full of water (checking the seams for leaks seeing it is used). But we found a boo-boo (hopefully it won't cause any problems another reason we are testing), there is a slight crack on the corner about mid way up .......HELP! <Ughhh> What kind of problems might this cause? We have resealed it with silicone on the inside (didn't go through that far but better safe then sorry), <agreed...although old silicone never truly makes a water tight bond with old silicone... only used for small details such as this> and epoxy on the outside. The crack is more like a chip. Just a surface chip for the most of it. Can you offer me any suggestions? <Ahhh...very good to hear it. For the purpose of this discussion, may we call a chip a planar section or shard taken out, and let us call a crack a concise line or fissure? By that definition, I can say with experience and confidence that a chip the size of a small coin is little matter at all beyond aesthetics. A dab of silicone on the outside to protect fingers is more than enough. A crack of any size however will inevitably run and is a serious risk that I wouldn't take. It sounds like you have a chip and that it is no matter. No worries my friend, you've done a good job with it> We live in Nova Scotia, Canada (right next to the ocean actually...what a beautiful sound at night), <almost makes you not want to bother with even a tropical aquarium...beautiful!> and only have one really half decent LFS here. We have gotten most of our goodies from JL in British Columbia <my goodness! And I am actually familiar with them... they are just one of two dealers for my Book of Coral Propagation in Canada so far> (would you believe cheaper for us to get it from the other side of the country then right here in town, even with shipping). <gee... that doesn't say much for the LFS! With regards for the dear cost of freight> So back to the original question....(can you tell I'm a woman...like to babble...hehe) how serious would you think that chip may be? <no worries... and by the way, I'm a bloke and just as chatty!> Thanks for all your help and answers. Keep up the good work. <with kind regards, Anthony> Hannah in Nova Scotia Chipped Tank Hey Anthony, <hello, dear> Thanks for a very quick response....I won't tell anyone you're a bloke...hehehe <no, no... please do tell all the attractive, intelligent single ladies you know that like talkative gentlemen <wink>> Okay dh feels a bit better now knowing that the chip should be ok. <good, as it should be> His only (and mine too) other concern is will that chip weaken the tank once the sand, LR, and water are in? Personally I think he is being overly concerned about this, but see his reasonings too....all that money and hard work for it to crack later on us would not be pretty. <there is indeed some concern about a stress point, although a small superficial chip really is of little matter> I might add here too that if it was not for Bob and the rest of you lovely people (the web page too), we would have been out of the hobby long ago. We have gotten many answers and a lot of help with out tank from yous. <your kind words are overpayment for the work done> The latest was a calcium level of .......are you ready for this........50. Yes 50! <Aiiiieeeee!> We lost only a small (smaller then my baby finger round) bunch of pumping xenias. Everything else is still alive and doing so much better now (go figure eh) that the calcium level is about 450. <excellent... indeed on the higher end. I don't complain if it is over 375ppm> I am anxiously awaiting the transfer to the 125g and will send before and after pics to you (I mean you helped get us this far.....why not share in the glory). Thanks a million guys!! <looking forward to it! Anthony> Hannah :) Bluenoser Tank Repair Hi. I have a 45 gallon tank and the center brace is pulling away from the sides. It is cracked, but not all the way through. Is there any way that I can repair it? <Yes, please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqrepairfaqs.htm A ready repair can likely be effected by simply siliconing a glass or acrylic panel over/under what you currently have. Bob Fenner> thanks for your help. Lynne Aquarium Repair - 55 gallon Hi Bob, <Steven Pro this evening.> I have a 55 gal aquarium which I am ready to setup. I noticed a small chip on the INSIDE of the long front glass. It is about 1/2 way down and front and center. I am VERY concerned about putting water in it (55 gallons would be a lot of water on my carpet)! Isn't there a lot of pressure on the glass with the water inside and might it cause the chip to crack? If it is suspicious should I not fill it or should it be fixed (and if so, how)? Thanks in advance for your advice. Linda Ascencio P.S. I read the article about the tank with the chip on the outside but mine is on the INSIDE. Thanks again. <I would give this tank a test fill somewhere easy to clean up, like say outside on the porch or in the garage. If you are really concerned about it, I would not repair it. I would just get a new one. 55's are so common that their pricing is very competitive and the warranty and the time to repair would be worth the extra bucks to me. -Steven Pro> Bit of a crack (repairing aquariums) Hi there, I just broke a panel on a 180 gallon tank that was given to me, they are not very light, do you think I can patch it, or replace the whole panel? <Replace the panel.> I need that cheap option, as a replacement tank is quite unaffordable. All the cracks are quite well aligned, there has been little movement. Thanks for any help you can offer. Matt Adlam <You are welcome. -Steven Pro> Aquarium Repair Sir <cheers> One of the end panels on my tank has a serious crack in it. Rather than just put a new piece over the old, I'd like to remove the broken end panel. <that is the best way> Now comes the problem, What's the best way to get the old panel out? The edges of the panel are still held very firmly, the break is right down the middle. <it is very laborious work with a lot of single edge razor bladed> I could take a hammer to the broken panel, but that would mean risking breaking one of the other panels. Any ideas on how I can remove the panel safely? <indeed... after the broken panel is removed, you also have to cleanly cut the entire inner seal out of the rest of the tank!!! Else, when you replace the broken panel, the new silicone will not stick to the old (never does and the tank will leak again). Some aquarists play it safe and totally take apart the entire tank (fully), clean all edges with razor blades, sanders and solvents... and then reassemble> Thanks and regards, Steve <I generally don't recommend aquarium repairs... they often fail unless you are VERY experienced and have the tools (glass grinders, etc). Not worth the aggravation. Sell the aquarium as a terrarium for reptiles and go buy another, my friend. Anthony> Cracked Tank Dear Bob, This is my first time visiting your site. <We are glad that you found it.> My son cracked the front panel of my 150 gallon fish tank which I use for my red eared slider. I only fill it about half way with water. The crack runs from top to bottom. Is there any way to fix this or am I out of luck? <It can be done, but it is not a simple task or guaranteed. The broken panel must be removed and all the old silicone, too. The new silicone will not stick to the old silicone. You may want to pay a store to do the work (if they will and will guarantee the work) or trade the tank in for a new one. If you do replace the panel yourself, be sure to test fill the tank outside or in your garage beside the floor drain incase your seals do not hold.> Thanks, Terri Anderson <Good luck! -Steven Pro> Scratches or a Crack in a Glass Tank A little history: This is our 42 gallon bow front tank. It is two years old and has been moved four times. We had it sitting on a home-made stand up until five months ago when I went for the real-deal stand. We have torn it down (full tank cleaning) at least four times in it's life. For the past nine months we have been using shale in it. It's a little difficult to work with (and heavy) and we always took care not to crack anything. This is the important part: When we inspected the tank prior to fill-up we noticed these scratches on the outside and are concerned. I filled it up (outside) and let it sit overnight <A very good plan.> with no leaks but I'm not confident in the tank after reading your board. For now we put the fish back and left the water level below the major crack, right where it is in the pictures. We don't know what to do about this and don't trust the fish store advice. They all want to sell us a new tank! Thanks very much, Doug <Unfortunately, neither of your pictures came through. If you would like to resend them, feel free and I will advise you as best as I can from the images. In the meantime, I will say that if the tank is cracked, I would strongly urge you to get another one. Repairing a tank is a lot of work and not worth it, IMO/E, for anything under 90 gallons. Sell the cracked tank to someone else for a reptile or small animal and buy a new one.> Here is the major crack/scratch. The depth is 'just' detectable with a fingernail. It is not cracked thru the glass and looks like a scratch but I'm not sure. Here you can see the second scratch/crack starting at 4 and ¼' and runs downward thru the water line at (4 and 3/8') and ending at 4 and 5/8'. <Good luck to you. -Steven Pro> DIY tank... almost Hey, <what?!> My dad is building a
200 gallon aquarium, <this doesn't sound like a good start
already> and a light was sitting up against the glass, so the glass
got so hot that it cracked. <bummer, dear... I am sorry to hear>
There are a few cracks and they are in the back of the aquarium. I was
wondering if there is a way to seal those cracks and prevent the glass
from breaking even more, without replacing the piece of glass. <not
at all... a patch would be structurally unsound and the tank would
burst in time if not immediately> (because the piece of glass is
huge and rocks are glued to it). please help! THANK YOU Sheri <I
wish I had better news for you, but it is bad. Not only does the broken
pane have to be removed, but the entire inner seal of silicone in the
whole tank(!) has to be scraped out. The seam of the glass needs to be
sanded down with very fine sand paper (to get the old silicone out of
the micropores) and the whole tank needs to be resealed. The reason for
this is that new silicone does not stick to cured silicone (even when
it is only a day or two old). So if you try to only take out the broken
piece but not all of the silicone too... old will meet new at some
point and that is where the tank will leak or burst next. Some people
say that it is such a big deal that the whole tank has to be cut down
and disassembled to be sure of a leak free tank. Best regards,
Anthony> |
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Mmm,
makes RMF uncomfortable.
