Troubled Elegance; rdg.      1/22/16 <Is there a full moon? Why don't you/folks read, follow our directions for file size?> Dear Crew, Before I took the risk of buying an Elegance Coral, I read countless articles. I came to the conclusion that if I didn't put powerheads on it with SPS lighting intensity I would be the success story! <?!> Ha! I've had my coral about a week, and it has stubby tentacles and looks bloated. I don't know if it is doomed at this point. <Just read my bit on WWM re Catalaphyllia. Bob Fenner> I was hoping to get an opinion on my lighting. It is a 7' long, 24" deep, 24" wide tank. I have a 48" Orbit led by Current and two 48" 54watt t5s (I have the t5s only on 6 hours). These are centered leaving the sides of the tank to be left dimmer. I placed the Elegance in the brighter part of the dim section of the tank (I hope this makes sense). Is it possibly getting too much light? I have attached a picture. Thanks for your time. Sincerely, Alyssa Sent from my Sprint Phone.

Worried about or Elegance Coral; no data, rdg.       9/28/15 Thank you for all your valuable information on your website but I fear that we are still concerned and want to tap your knowledge and expertise to see if we can reverse any negative effects that our elegance coral is suffering right now. Over night we have what appears the disintegration of the center section of our elegance coral see picture attached). Is it the positioning, an infection or something else altogether. <Can't tell w/ the lack of data....> Is there something we can do, please help! <Move the specimen to a "dirtier" setting.... like a refugium w/ mud.... is there measurable N, P, K present?> We love this beauty and would be so sad to see it go. Should we be concerned about our other corals if it is indeed an infection, we obviously don't want our other corals to suffer a similar fate. Thank you so much in advance! Julia <.... have you read on WWM re Catalaphyllia? Bob Fenner>

Elegance Coral health problem 8/5/11 Greetings WWM crew. And apologies in advance for sending out a redundant question; I see many people have had a similar issue to the one I'm going to describe, but I have yet to find an answer that matches my quandary or offers recommendations that I've not already tried. <Hotay> Over the last few days, my 2 month old <I assume then that the other Cnidarians shown in your tank/system image pre-date this introduction; including the anemone in the left corner> (since I purchased it) Aussie Elegance Coral won't open fully. It's tentacles are partially inflated, but it's oral disk remains closed and I haven't seen it take food. My tank is a quite crowded but very healthy 55 with an assortment of LPS, a few leathers, and a couple of SPS. Specifications: 0 ammonia, nitrate and nitrite, 8.2 ph, 11 alkalinity, 480 calcium, 1250 magnesium, <Low in ratio to the CA, but not the issue here principally> a very slight trace of phosphates, and 1.026SG; 30 gallon sump/refugium running 2 reactors (1 carbon, 1 Phosban); <Perhaps this is a factor; nutrient deprivation... Catalaphyllia live in nutrient rich mud... all chemoautotrophs need measurable NO3, HPO4>> T5 fixture with 3 actinic and 3 white; mediocre protein skimmer (Coralife, but I forget the specific type) . The specimen in question is positioned in the lower right corner of the tank, somewhat shaded from my lights by a Kenyan tree leather about 12" above. Also, low flow (gentle movement of EC's tentacles), and no direct contact with any other corals. The EC was opening beautifully daily (filling up the entire corner), until about a week ago when I found a yellow knobby sea cucumber affixed to its skeleton/base. This Cuke seemed to be bothering the EC (as that it was only partially open), so after 48 hours of not moving away from the EC, I physically removed it. The EC's position in the tank has not changed, but since the encounter it has failed to fully open again. It starts the day quite contracted, but usually, around the time the lights go out, it's about 1/3 - 1/2 its former size; however, it never opens to its previous, impressive self. I ran into a similar problem with my previous attempt to house an EC. I chalked the last death up to a negligent tank-sitter who no-showed for the week I was vacationing, along with the fact that it was a frag from a questionable LFS and so had encountered earlier stress. This recent EC was not fragged, <Not good candidates> and came from a more reputable LFS. Also, I feed a variety of frozen and liquid foods, target feeding the EC with oyster feast. Iodine supplement of 2 drops 2-3x per week. Using Salinity salt mix, along with RO/DI water. Not sure what else I can tell you, but if there's any information I left out please let me know and I'll quickly respond. The only other odd thing going on in this tank is a pipe organ coral that has not opened in roughly 2 weeks. And yes, that is one huge LTA in the left corner that I have tried to box in to keep it from fighting the pagoda cup above. The new, massive tank is coming, but not until next July when I've completed my relocation 2000 miles from my current address. Thanks in advance for any advice you may share. Eric <This is a classic case of allelopathy. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/elegcorcompfaqs.htm and here: http://wetwebmedia.com/CorlCompArt.htm And write back if you have further questions, concerns. Bob Fenner>

Catalaphyllia at lower right

Re: Elegance Coral health problem 8/5/11 Bob, thanks much for the reply. To clarify, both of the pictures were taken at the same time. Most of the other tank inhabitants/Cnidarians were established well before (several months to one year) the Elegance was introduced. As for fragged EC's: are you saying that it's best to buy ones that have been fragged, and that unfragged EC's are 'not good candidates'? <Sorry for the confusion. Mean/t that this species is not a good candidate for dividing period. Doesn't take well to breaking, cutting> Finally, do you think the reason the pipe organ is remaining closed is also due to allelopathy? <More likely from a lack of (chemical) nutrition> I run generous amounts of carbon to help with the fighting, but keep the EC in a low flow, solitary corner where detritus tends to accumulate. Plus my red Goniopora is thriving, and I thought they liked nutrient rich water as well. <Mmm, well, the best course of action would have been and is now to remove the Catalaphyllia, slowly acclimate it per the link you were referred to; daily mixing of some water twixt systems> I sure love the hobby, but every day brings another lesson to be learned. And I never thought these animals would grow as fast as they have! A larger tank can't come soon enough. <Agreed> Best to you and your team, Eric <Welcome. BobF> Elegance Troubles/Catalaphyllia Systems/Health 8/7/10 Hello Crew, <Hi Drew> I've been reading the FAQ about Elegance corals now I'm more confused than I was before. To start I would like to cut and paste a question that I posted on another board which is the reason I started reading here in the first place. <OK> "I added an Aussie elegance from Dr F&S on May 21st. It was doing very well in my system until about two weeks ago. Around the time the coral started going down hill the changes to the tank were: 1. Added one rock Mag and two rock Mag Jr. http://aqua-mags.com/index.html 2. Added some Zoa frags (dipped in revive prior to adding to tank) 3. The sediment and carbon block filters clogged on RO/DI unit (I'm not sure how much water was produced using the rest of the system) 4. Attached frags with a combo of super glue gel and underwater epoxy putty. 5. Minor reaquascaping 6. Repaired return plumbing leak. I noticed a drip from the threaded return bulkhead. Tried to tighten and it cracked. All I had handy was a slip/slip bulkhead so; I used PVC primmer/glue to replace the bulkhead and a few fittings. I let it dry about six hours prior to restarting the return pump. The hose between the pump and PVC pipe popped off dumping 6 gallons of top off water into the system. I didn't have enough mixed salt water on hand to replace what was lost. While mixing a new batch of SW there was another six hours with the return pump off. The only flow in the tank while this was going on was two MP10's The coral looks a little better than it did last week. It ate on Tuesday but not on Thursday. I feed PE Mysis to my corals on Tu/Th/Su. Other things I have done to try and bring it around are: 1. Replaced sediment and carbon filters on RO/DI unit 2. Water change (only one though I didn't want to make more water until I could change the filters on RO/DI) 3. Changed carbon in reactor I also removed the GFO so I could max out the flow through the carbon. I plan on doing water and carbon change tomorrow. Should I dip the coral in revive? <Isn't going to help your problem.> What else can I do to save this coral?" My tank is a standard reef ready 75 Gal with 30 Gal sump. For filtration there is 80lbs live rock, SWC Extreme160 protein skimmer, dual media reactor that I use GFO and carbon in, I also have a refugium with live rock rubble and Chaetomorpha algae. For in tank flow there are two MP10's on random lagoon mode dialed back to about 60%. The lighting is a six bulb T5 fixture. <The biggest problem I see here is too much water flow. Those MP10's without a controller put out around 1500gph each, way too much flow for Elegance Corals. Secondly, it sounds like your system water is too pure. Elegance Corals do better with some nitrates/nutrients present in the water.> Tank parameters are: SG: 1.026 PH: 8.0 Ca: 450 Mg: 1500+ Alk: 7.4 DKH trying to raise to 8 Ammonia: 0 No2: 0 No3: 0 I have attached three pictures the first a full tank shot was taken on July 25 while the coral was healthy the second was taken Aug 5th now that its not doing so well. the final picture is of my fuge in reference to question 5 Here are some of the questions I developed while reading the FAQ 1. Is my substrate too course? Mud or fine sand is mentioned <Yes, the membrane on these corals cut very easily. Fine sand is best.> 2. Would two MP 10's on a 48" tank produce too much flow for the elegance? <Oh yes.> 3. Does the center support on the tank shade the Elegance enough? I can raise or lower the fixture as required. <I do one thing at a time, and I would start with flow reduction. Secondly, get the coral off the course substrate. As a temporary means, place some fine sand in a small Rubbermaid container and place the coral on the sand.> 4. Should I feed the coral PE Mysis or 1/4" sections of frozen shrimp? 5. Is my fuge suitable to house my coral? (As a last resort I like looking at it ) <Lighting?> 6. Should I not use GFO any more to help raise NO3 in my tank? <?? Ferric Oxide isn't going raise NO3.> 7. do you need any more information to help save my favorite coral? <Nope, you do. Read here and related articles/FAQ's. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/elegance.htm> Thanks, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Drew Re: Elegance Coral health problem 8/15/11 Greetings Bob <Salutations Eric> I wanted to provide an update on my elegance coral in hopes that it might help others with a similar problem. As the picture I've attached indicates, the EC has drastically improved since I first contacted you. <Ah good> In order to help it out, I've done 2 ten gallon water changes (using salinity salt mix) on my 55 system (with 30 gallon sump/refugium), added fresh black diamond carbon, and most importantly (I think) started target feeding the tank and EC specifically with reef nutrition Phyto-feast and oyster-feast. To clarify: for some reason, when I ran out of the phyto-feast several weeks ago, I didn't bother to replace it since I had a similar frozen food on hand. Some corals in my tank started looking a little rough, but I had decided it was because of allelopathy rather than diet (as that my tank is crowded and I had a declining sea fan). I eventually remembered the change in diet, and when I started back up with the liquid phyto feast things began to turn around. The elegance coral, which had stopped opening fully and was in quick decline (I often hear people worrying about similar problems, which seems to elude remedy), perked up shortly thereafter and is now eating silversides. Its oral disc opens fully during the day, its polyps are completely extended, and it only closes partially once lights go out. <Yay!> I don't know if it was one of these changes or all if them in tandem that helped my EC to recover, but I thought that sharing my positive experience might be helpful. However, I should note that since regular water changes and carbon use are standard for my set up, I'm inclined to credit the return to phyto-feast as the most important change. Hoping the positive turn lasts, Eric <Thank you for this follow-up. BobF>

Elegance Troubles/Catalaphyllia Systems/Health 8/7/10 Hello Crew, <Hi Drew> I've been reading the FAQ about Elegance corals now I'm more confused than I was before. To start I would like to cut and paste a question that I posted on another board which is the reason I started reading here in the first place. <OK> "I added an Aussie elegance from Dr F&S on May 21st. It was doing very well in my system until about two weeks ago. Around the time the coral started going down hill the changes to the tank were: 1. Added one rock Mag and two rock Mag Jr. http://aqua-mags.com/index.html 2. Added some Zoa frags (dipped in revive prior to adding to tank) 3. The sediment and carbon block filters clogged on RO/DI unit (I'm not sure how much water was produced using the rest of the system) 4. Attached frags with a combo of super glue gel and underwater epoxy putty. 5. Minor reaquascaping 6. Repaired return plumbing leak. I noticed a drip from the threaded return bulkhead. Tried to tighten and it cracked. All I had handy was a slip/slip bulkhead so; I used PVC primmer/glue to replace the bulkhead and a few fittings. I let it dry about six hours prior to restarting the return pump. The hose between the pump and PVC pipe popped off dumping 6 gallons of top off water into the system. I didn't have enough mixed salt water on hand to replace what was lost. While mixing a new batch of SW there was another six hours with the return pump off. The only flow in the tank while this was going on was two MP10's The coral looks a little better than it did last week. It ate on Tuesday but not on Thursday. I feed PE Mysis to my corals on Tu/Th/Su. Other things I have done to try and bring it around are: 1. Replaced sediment and carbon filters on RO/DI unit 2. Water change (only one though I didn't want to make more water until I could change the filters on RO/DI) 3. Changed carbon in reactor I also removed the GFO so I could max out the flow through the carbon. I plan on doing water and carbon change tomorrow. Should I dip the coral in revive? <Isn't going to help your problem.> What else can I do to save this coral?" My tank is a standard reef ready 75 Gal with 30 Gal sump. For filtration there is 80lbs live rock, SWC Extreme160 protein skimmer, dual media reactor that I use GFO and carbon in, I also have a refugium with live rock rubble and Chaetomorpha algae. For in tank flow there are two MP10's on random lagoon mode dialed back to about 60%. The lighting is a six bulb T5 fixture. <The biggest problem I see here is too much water flow. Those MP10's without a controller put out around 1500gph each, way too much flow for Elegance Corals. Secondly, it sounds like your system water is too pure. Elegance Corals do better with some nitrates/nutrients present in the water.> Tank parameters are: SG: 1.026 PH: 8.0 Ca: 450 Mg: 1500+ Alk: 7.4 DKH trying to raise to 8 Ammonia: 0 No2: 0 No3: 0 I have attached three pictures the first a full tank shot was taken on July 25 while the coral was healthy the second was taken Aug 5th now that its not doing so well. the final picture is of my fuge in reference to question 5 Here are some of the questions I developed while reading the FAQ 1. Is my substrate too course? Mud or fine sand is mentioned <Yes, the membrane on these corals cut very easily. Fine sand is best.> 2. Would two MP 10's on a 48" tank produce too much flow for the elegance? <Oh yes.> 3. Does the center support on the tank shade the Elegance enough? I can raise or lower the fixture as required. <I do one thing at a time, and I would start with flow reduction. Secondly, get the coral off the course substrate. As a temporary means, place some fine sand in a small Rubbermaid container and place the coral on the sand.> 4. Should I feed the coral PE Mysis or 1/4" sections of frozen shrimp? 5. Is my fuge suitable to house my coral? (As a last resort I like looking at it ) <Lighting?> 6. Should I not use GFO any more to help raise NO3 in my tank? <?? Ferric Oxide isn't going raise NO3.> 7. do you need any more information to help save my favorite coral? <Nope, you do. Read here and related articles/FAQ's. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/elegance.htm> Thanks, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Drew

Re Elegance Troubles/Catalaphyllia Systems/Health 8/7/10 - 8/14/10 <Hello Drew> I would like to do a follow up on the heath of my coral. It has been about a week since I requested help as you can see by the attached picture the coral is doing a little better. <It seems to be doing a little better.> I did notice some tissue necrosis earlier in the week but that has stopped. <Good.> The corrective actions I have attempted are reducing the flow on the left MP10 to 40% and the right one to 25%. I also moved the coral to the right side of the tank placing it on a Tupperware lid and surrounding it with a finer substrate. I have been trying to stabilize alkalinity at 9.0 dKH with Seachem Reef Builder. I'll be testing daily for another week until I can get a feel for how much of a daily dose I will need to develop a routine. I have also stopped target feeding the coral with PE Mysis as I noticed one of my wrasses stealing food from it. The final thing I have done is stop rinsing the food in an attempt to raise the nutrients in the tank. I notice the greatest improvement with the raise in alkalinity. The current parameters are: PH 8.1 SG 1.024 NO3 0 Alk 8.6 dKH Ca 440 Mg 1500 <Too high, 1200-1300ppm> Now on to the questions: 1. How long should I wait to try something else? <Why?> 2. The current substrate is CaribSea Super Reef if I need to change substrate in the whole tank what average grain size should I get? <I would go with sugar size grain such as CaribSea's Aragamax Sugar Size Sand.> 3. How long should I keep that plastic lid under the coral? <I see in this pic that the coral is attached to a piece of live rock and not resting directly on the sand bed so you can remove the plastic lid. You also mentioned a wrasse, if it is one of the burrowing species, they much prefer a finer sand also. Coarse sands tend to scratch their skin.> 4. What else can I do to improve the heath of the coral? <Time and patience, and do read the link I referred you to earlier.> Thank-you for your time and support, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog) Drew

Re Elegance Troubles/Catalaphyllia Systems/Health 8/7/10 - 8/14/10 - 6/27/10 James, <Drew> One more follow-up on my Elegance please. I've attached a current picture of the elegance I've been writing about. As you can see it is doing much better except the coloration has not returned. It has been about two weeks since the last time I wrote. How long should it take to color back up? <Tough to answer, too many variables.> The one thing we have not discussed is the lighting. I'm using an AquaticLife six bulb T5 fixture eight inches over the water. The bulbs are All the ATI brand, they are configured front to back as follows: Blue plus Aqua blue special Actinic Aqua blue special Blue plus Actinic The blue pluses/actinic are on ten hours a day and the aqua blue specials are on for eight. The coral is located just to the left of the cross brace on the sand bed 22 inches under the lights. Should I make adjustment to the lighting? <I would, you have way too much blue. I would replace the blue plus and aqua blue special lamps with 10-12K lamps. These corals need more of the "white" light to better promote photosynthesis. The actinics will still give you that color "pop" most folks desire.> Thanks again, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Drew

Re Elegance Troubles/Catalaphyllia Systems/Health 8/7/10 - 8/14/10 - 8/27/10 Oops, forgot to mention that indeed, your Elegance appears to be doing better. James (Salty Dog)>

Elegance Coral going south 6/21/10 Hello, <Howdy> My Aussie elegance coral appears to be going south. <Gone> :( I've only had it for 1 month. The first 2 weeks it looked great. One day I noticed a Cerith snail had crawled up its tentacles and that area of the tentacles started to shrink. A couple days later I saw a Nassarius snail climb up another tentacle. <These are feeding secondarily... the Catalaphyllia in decline> From then on the elegance would close at night and barely open in the day not exposing his inside. The tentacles started to shrink and so I moved him into my frag tank <Good> so in case it died it did not pollute my display tank. He has some brown and white stuff come out of him. He doesn't eat any of the PE Mysis shrimp <... not a good choice> I try feeding him. I think he's at his last leg. Do I try to save him still or is it his end? :( <Can still be saved> I bought this Aussie elegance coral from an east coast vendor who accidentally sent it to me when I was on vacation. So this coral has been in living in a box and jumping on planes for 5 days. Believe it or not the Aussie was still alive and did not look good. The vendor held it for 1.5 months and shipped it back to me. Like mentioned above 2 weeks it was fine but past 2 weeks hasn't been good. Look like it has the brown jelly disease or just stressed out from the shipping/snails? <Likely stress plus something else... environmental...> Please see attached image. Thanks, John <Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/elegance.htm and the linked files above... Bob Fenner>

Re: Elegance Coral going south 6/21/10 Mabuhay Bob, <Bunsong kapatid> Thanks for the response. After reading your link I'll be removing the corals in my frag tank and place some sand in there and lie the elegance coral on it's side. I'll turn the powerhead off and just leave the HOB filter running. I've read that too much light can make the tentacles shrink and make the body puff up. <This is so> I have 4x24W T5 in my tank. Is this too much light? <in how deep a system? If the water depth over the specimen is 18 plus inches it should be okay> With the bulb combination I have a 14K look to the tank. Should I create an overhang for him? <Not necessary... but I would feed this colony per the FAQs, and would treat it with a high dose, even a dip of iodide-ate> Also how do I get the water more nutrient rich? <Time going by> Will phyto feast make my water more nutrient rich? <No> I know that phyto is not needed for elegance corals but if it's way to get my tank more nutrient rich will that work? Thanks, John <Welcome. BobF> Re: Elegance Coral going south 6/22/10 Hi Bob, <SFB> Sorry to bother you again. As for the feeding I've read the FAQ's and you mention to feed minced meat. If I chopped up the PE Mysis would that be ok? <Mmm, no... better to have larger, chunkier pieces... about "mouth size"...> I also have live baby brine shrimp, Cyclop-eeze, and rods food. Would any of these also work? <... Not really, no... please keep reading> You mention to treat it with a high dose but I'm not sure what to treat it with a high dose of. Also I've never heard of iodide-ate. Is this like Povidone or Revive? <These are mixtures of Iodine... in these valence states> Salamat, John :) <And you, BobF>

Hi...question about elegance. NNS   2/26/07 Hi, my name is RX. <Like the prescription> I have a lot of trouble with my LFS... <space> they have been selling me corals and fish which lots of problem...I dun <done?> practice dips because it is a relatively unknown practice here in my country. <Oooh> I am from Singapore and here they dun even heard of coral dips...they just throw corals away if they are infected...bad practice. <Agreed> My tank is 50 gallons...used to have a blue tang, coral tang, hammer coral and finger coral. But they all died, due to diseases. Right now my tank remained: 4 damsels 1 Goniopora 1 star polyp 1 button polyp 1 mushroom 1 crocea clam 2 slugs 1 boxer shrimp 1 cleaner shrimp Nitrite, ammonia both is at zero level. PH 8.3 Nitrate at 5ppm Water quality is fine, with skimmer. Water dechlorinated. Temperature at 27degrees C I am planning to add another skimmer soon. I have some algae growing on the seabed and an 8cm DSB make up of layers of substrates. One layer of mixed sand (of all sizes) at the bottom with another layer of coral chips next on top. And three more layers of sand (different sizes) with the finest sand on top I buried my elegance deep into the sand and it is protected from current by the live rocks. <Is how this species is found... more often in muck than sand... in the wild> I have 4 T5 lights. 3 10k lights and 1 actinic light. Elegance is below the actinic light. All my corals are doing very well now. Because after the demise of my tang and others. I have been adding beneficial bacteria and doing water changes. I haven't been feeling my fishes so often to improve water quality. And one day, my clam dropped down from the rock...twice...gosh...it hurts u know. I not sure if it hurt the elegance because it is just on top of it... <Yikes> Until now elegance has not been showing her beauty...she just remains closed. It had been 2 days plus. I took it out of the water to smell it... Some portion got a bit of bad smell. just like a bad breath. It smells just like when my hammer got infested. I am really worried...what should I do ? <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/elegcordisfaqs.htm and the linked files above> I am planning to do a coral dip using Seachem's reef dip. <Good choice> What I guess is that it is injured and bacteria in the water might be decomposing it, causing it to be unable to recover on its own. Is it possible? <Yes> Or some bad bacteria maybe infesting the wounds... <This too> This is just what I think from a scientific point of view. Should I quarantine it? Or just do a dip once in while and observe it? <I would do this latter> I can't set up a hospital tank due to the lack of light and I am afraid that the poor condition of the hospital tank may not be able to help. <I agree> And I once did a crazy experiment with my star polyps and hammer by doing a quick freshwater rinse and then dipping into saltwater with methyl blue when they had that weird similar smell... <Yes... produce detectable chemicals when stressed...> The star polyp survives and recovers on it's own. Up till today it is still growing bigger. And the hammer stopped producing mucus but it rot in its skeleton. I dump it after 2 days of observations. And my Elegance, up till now, haven't been opening but it doesn't release any mucus or weird substances till now... :) I pray for its survival. I just check on it and the smell is still there. <Real good. Bob Fenner>
Re: Hi...question about elegance. Hlth.   2/27/07 Today I checked on my elegance coral again. It's bad because a bit of the flesh is torn and now it is on the sand. And some transparent stuff is coming from the coral. Is it possible for it to survive even if it's torn? <Yes> Can the flesh grow back slowly? <Yes> The weird part is that the torn flesh doesn't lose its color and under the actinic lighting, it's still glowing green. Does that suggest the flesh is still alive? Please help me. What should I do? <May be alive... I would "do" nothing... NOT move this specimen... perhaps "step up" (with testing) the administration of iodine/ide/ate supplementation, feeding with meaty foods soaked in vitamins and HUFAs> Should I 1) throw it away because it's hopeless and it can pollute the water. 2) do a coral dip because it can still survive and grow back slowly by keep the water quality high. 3) do a coral dip for the coral and the torn flesh because the torn flesh might be able to grow into a new coral one day. (Crazy idea but that's what I think because it's not dead yet.) <I would do none of the above... Not worth the damage of moving, but worth trying to save in place> Thanks. Please tell me honestly if it can survive. The coral is very important to me because it's a life after all. But if I have to choose, I will choose not to pollute the water and causing all the other members of the tank to perish with it. If it still have chance to survive, I will choose to nurse it like a lovely mum. ? thanks. <Good. Thank you, Bob Fenner>

Elegance Coral Hi, Steven Pro, how are you? <Not too bad. How are you?> My elegant is not doing well. I just got back from LA for Thanksgiving. I only went away one day. I don't know if it is possible to get you out to my place in La Mesa (near Lake Murray) to take a look to see what can possibly be going on and is there anything I can still do for it. <I am out in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.> Or maybe if you have a place at your place that you can try to raise it back to health. <There is probably nothing you, I, or anyone could do.> The store I bought from had it under 175 watt MH's at mid tank, about 12 inches below water surface. <That was its first problem. They should always be kept on the sand under low to moderate lighting.> The owner said he had it for 3 weeks, and it did look healthy. <They generally do. One of the bad things about these corals is they survive long enough to give the hobbyist false hope.> Like you said damage can be done at anytime, but I just can't believe with calcium reactor keeping Alk/pH in check, that it can't make a recovery from whatever the damage. <Many Elegance has perished in recent years in the hands of very experienced keepers with well maintained tanks. It is the coral, its particular needs, and the care it received previously that are usually the problem. Never buy an Elegance that has been perched up on liverock, never place it on rock yourself, give it low to moderate amounts of water movement and lighting, and hope for the best.> Something else have to be the problem that's causing it to not improving. <Not really> I did find the cleaner shrimp (one-I assume is the same one), that was picking on it when I walk in the door today. <I would describe the behavior as opportunistic and not attacking. It is feeding on necrotic tissue, not attacking healthy tissue.> The cleaner shrimp I got is the kind that have 2 red stripe and one white strip in between the 2 red strips. So I immediately fed them and my fish and I am planning on feed the shrimps everyday if I can, and hope it stays away. I wasn't successful on catching it today. I always only see one shrimp picking on it at one time, so I assume it's the same one and maybe it developed a taste for it. Now after they all ate, the shrimps went in hiding. I do have a 10 gallon empty tank (no fish/shrimp), but there is water, live rock, and some Caulerpa with two 8 watts fluorescents on it. It used to be seahorse tank. One bulb is regular fluorescent (which doesn't help much with Caulerpa growth), and the other one is a Aqua-glow bulb (which Caulerpa likes). But, due to busy schedule at work, I sent the horses away. It does still get water change and power head still running, but no calcium reactor. It has a drop in air pump powered skimmer, which was turned off since no more seahorses are in it. If necessary, I can rinse old sand from my old 50 gallon and make a few inches deep sand bed for Elegance. I will have to buy another Aqua-glow bulb, I think if I want to put elegance in that tank. What do you think? <It might be best to quarantine this specimen now for fear of wasting away in your display.> I don't even know if you are in San Diego. I figure if you are partner with Bob Fenner, you probably close by. <Actually the other side of the country, The beauty of the internet.> But I could be wrong. If you can come check it out, I would really, really appreciate it. If possible perhaps this weekend. I don't know how long the coral will last. Probably no more than 5 days to 1 week. Please let me know ASAP. My cell number is 619-xxx-xxxx. If you are in town, I can go pick you up, if you don't feel like driving. I just hate to see things die on me. <I understand.> Thanks in advance. Hope to hear from you very soon. Sincerely, George <Sorry about your coral. On a positive side, our conversations have spurred me to begin an article discussing Elegance corals. Best of luck to you! -Steven Pro>
Elegance Questions Thanks for your response. I moved it to the bottom, partially bury in the sand, with both end's edge (coral is fan shape) about 1/4 inches or less from sand. It has been there since Saturday night. The 2 cleaner shrimps stick there pinchers into the opening between the meat and skeleton once a while, I guess there are something to eat in there. <This is not a good sign. They maybe feeding on necrotic/infected tissue. Nothing for you to do about it though. Just keep your fingers crossed.> But overall seems coral improved a little, compare to the way it looks like then and today. One thing got me worried is the articles I read from the link you gave me. It mentioned about nutrient rich environment. I don't like to super skim my water like some other people do, perhaps some corals need that kind of water quality. <There are many different niches and many different types of "reef" tanks.> I usually only clean my skimmer once a month or so. <I would like to see you clean it more often that this. I clean mine about every other day or so.> Since the tank just transferred with 60lbs of new sand at bottom, I believe it still balancing itself out. I still have diatoms and start getting some green algae growing now rather than just brown. I do have about 30 snails at work. One clam, one sea squirt thingy, a sponge, and a gorgonian filtering the water. <Depending on species of above you are going to need to take a proactive stance in feeding these animals.> Curious, what kind of animals do you have in the same tank as your elegance coral? <Mostly other LPS, a few SPS, a few soft corals, and mushrooms that I am actively removing.> What's your alkalinity, pH, nitrate, etc? <Specific gravity 1.025, pH ~8.2, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate are all undetectable, alkalinity ~3.5 mEq/l, calcium ~375 ppm, temperature For a tank that's not as nutrient rich, can feeding replace the nutrient it needs? <Yes, that is what I do.> Right now I think my tank has plenty of nutrients, since diatom and green algae is all over the place. <I am not so sure. This is a cycle of sorts for new tanks.> Coralline algae is starting to grow faster and faster now. <Excellent!> I do have Calcium reactor. <Great!> I do add buffer, mineral supplements, and iodine once every week. <Ok> I don't know if my test kit is ok or what. Yesterday I test my Alk=11.2 (I tested 2 times), and calcium is 400 (which is lower than the 425 for sea water). <These numbers are fine. Just keep them consistent and you will be rewarded.> I think I probably need to have someone test it again for me. Thanks again. Let me know. Sincerely, George <Good luck! -Steven Pro>
Coral Treatment Thanks Steven Pro. I will be looking forward to your article. Do you think two 8 watt fluorescents are enough light or do I need more light in my 10 gallon? <Truthfully, I do not think it will matter much.> I probably need actinic too right or the aqua-glow plant light is fine or do I need PC light instead? How much light do you think is adequate for them in a 10 gallon? <My recommendation was to remove to QT so as not to pollute your system. If the coral lives for a week or more after the move, then you may want to consider spending additional money on it.> Or maybe I should keep them in my refugium (at planning stages, still try to decide if I want a refugium). Do you have a refugium? <Not on my current 55, but my new 120 has two.> I am going to do a water change today for my main tank. I will be doing a 100% water change for my 10 gallon, so I won't have to spend time get the coral use to the different water. Would you suggest anything I can try, maybe iodine (diluted)? <This may help.> Logically that not a good idea to me, because that probably stresses it out further and might end up kill the healthy one. <Iodine has some antiseptic value.> Well, I guess I just refuse to hear the phrase "there are nothing anyone can do at this point". So it is very lucky for you to even have your elegance survived. No wonder you are thrilled to have that growing the way it is. What do you think, is it worth even trying? <I would QT it in the ten gallon tank with water from the main display and hope for the best. The longer it lives, the better.> Would it do more damage like I think it will be, than good?   <I am not sure what you are referring to.> You know what. I won't give up. I will give it a try again. But this time I want to ask the store I bought from place it in gravel, low to med light and current. <You might be best off buying right out of the bag before it even goes in the dealer's tank.> I think that way we can give other hobbyists hope and who knows maybe one day our elegance will be some help to replenish their population. I tried to keep the regular and purple tip elegance before few years ago. Like you said, they live long enough to give most of us hope, than just die.  But I think that I had a regular one live for a while back than, but something happen to it and it died. Do you think purple tip is harder? <Yes, much harder.> If you can have one live in your tank, I don't see why wouldn't it in my or many of the experienced hobbyist's tank. <The specimen I have is an attached variety, one that grew attached to the reef. The ones you see most often are free living varieties. They come from deeper water and must be kept on soft sand.> I guess at this point of the time, I will need a lot of luck to find that special elegance that will live and grow like yours. Well thanks again for your patience. Yes internet is a great thing, it link us together no matter where you are. It probably saved and helped many sick corals, fish, etc. Let me know. Oh, do you think I should cut the part of flesh that definitely dying (kind brown in color). <I would probably touch it as little as possible. Many times doing something to help is the worst thing we can do.> On the other hand probably speed up the infection of other healthy tissue? I know it probably won't make any difference at this point, but I have to try. Who knows, maybe I will be as lucky as you were. Cross my fingers. Maybe I should talk to it more often, maybe it will get better.  :) Sincerely, George <Best of luck to you! -Steven Pro>
Elegance Coral Suggestions Hi Steven, how's things? <Not too bad. A little tired. Just got back with Anthony from a long, but fun and productive trip.> I hope my elegance can grow as good as yours. I notice a little receding on my coral. I don't know if it was because I had it side ways on the rock or it was already that way when I bought it. <Hard to say. The damage could have occurred at anytime.> It looked healthy and open up pretty good when I got it. Instead of in the sand, right now I just have it up right between rocks. <I would definitely move it onto the sand.> I will see how it responded to the change in the next few days. I notice in the picture, you have larger size of gravel. <Yeah. FYI, I don't like it. I have 300 pounds of Southdown in the garage for my new 120.> I have finer (sandy) gravel. <Good> The sand bed is only about 1 month old. Just transferred from a 50 tall to a 80 gallon. I have 60 lbs of new sand and dumped about 10-15 lbs of old sand to seed it. Do you think I should worry about some bristle worm or other worms that might attack my elegance? <If they do "attack" the Elegance it is because the Elegance is unhealthy.> There are cracks on the skeleton of my purple tip elegance. So, something heavy must of smashed it before and recovered. Do you think I need to use epoxy to fill in the crack? <I would leave it alone.> I have two 250 watt HQIs and the tank is about 24-25" deep. The HQI are in a 10" tall canopy. <I would definitely lower this coral to the bottom. They are lower light animals despite their striking color.> Well, now the coral is about 12 inches below the water surface sitting up right. I am crossing my fingers. If you have any other input/tips on keeping this coral, please let me know. George <You can start here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/elegance.htm and then work your way through the FAQ files. I would also search for writings from Eric Borneman on the subject. -Steven Pro>

Elegance Coral Decline and Royal Gramma Demise Hi WetWeb Crew, >Hola, Manny. I'm new to the hobby (3 months), but I have been reading articles and FAQs on your site from the start.  I have spent hours on your site, but still want some direct advice. >Alright, I'll do my best. Tank info: 55G with appropriately sized wet/dry, skimmer, UV sterilizer, 130 watts of PC, and two power heads.  40 lbs. of rock a .5 to 2 inch (depending on place) sand bed, mushrooms, leathers, sun polyps, and ELEGANCE coral.  Some hermits, an arrow crab, some snails, peppermints, and two cleaner shrimp.  I purchased the whole set up, including all corals and rock, for $600 (not bad).   >Pretty good deal, yeah. So the whole system is really more like 8 months old, including the corals.  The owner had no testing equipment, not even a hydrometer...he relied on weekly water changes with store bought salt water and he NEVER fed the corals.   >Eek! So everything in the tank was healthy and hardy. Questions: 1.  The elegance coral, which I have been feeding shrimp to for the last three months and which improved since I bought it, recently started becoming more transparent at the base of some polyps...I can even see the white skeleton showing through the body of the polyp.  It is not water quality, unless a slight and quickly corrected nitrate spike of 40ppm could do it.   >High nitrates can cause a decline, yes.  But what I'm not clear on is whether or not the elegance was already in the tank with the leathers, from the get go, so to speak. It is not current because the head with the lowest and no direct current looks almost as bad as the head that gets hit by the return and worse than the head that gets moderate current.  Could it be calcium??? >I would tend to see low calcium levels being expressed in a lack of growth, but it could indeed be a factor.  You should have calcium levels up around 400-450ppm. I have a test on the way to me.  Incidentally, your FAQs have denied this as a cause, but I recently added the shrimp, everything else has been there for months.  Could it be too much light?  No change in that recently.  HELP! >Lighting...could be, but my money's more on allelopathy with those leathers. 2.  I have had bad luck with fish.  My two ocellaris clowns died of Ich because I didn't act fast enough or well enough with copper and my fresh water dips came too late.  I ordered a yellow tang that was practically DOA.  I now have a Firefish, doing great, and a royal Gramma, DYING!!!  They both came with either Amyloodinium or some kind of infection on the skin.  I treated with copper and antibiotic and pH temp adjusted freshwater dips for the Gramma only twice...I don't think he can take it now.  His tail half rotted, but that cleared up and he started looking better all around, but now he won't eat and he just sits upright at the bottom of the QT (like at night) coughing now and then.  He looks weak...should I dip him again and risk killing him, like my clowns, or should I just hope?  Any ideas on getting him to at least eat?  I've tried frozen brine shrimp.. he used to love it. >I wouldn't dip him again, I think that would be too stressful.  I am not normally a proponent, but many folks swear that garlic increases appetite, you may want to try it.  Also, nix the brine shrimp--nutritionally deficit.  A much better choice is Mysis shrimp.  Try fresh Mysis *if* you can get it (I know I can from a supplier locally), but I know that freshly cultured can be problematic.  I'm assuming that you're testing your q/t water religiously, and that ALL levels are at zero readings.  I would reduce lighting on him, keep the place a bit dim, try the garlic (some folks will spend lots of money on the extracts--since I've never used it I can't tell you if that is the way to go or if you can just make your own by crushing garlic), the Mysis, and keep treating him with a broad spectrum antibiotic.  My own preference is for Spectrogram, both gram positive and negative antibiotic. THANKS FOR THE HELP AND THE GREAT SITE!  Manny      >You're very welcome, and if you have a place you can remove the Elegance coral to, possibly in q/t, I would try that and see if it improves.  I will also recommend you get a good book on corals, the vote seems to go for Eric Borneman's book...can't recollect the name, though, but it should be easy enough to find on site.  Good luck!  Marina