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What used to be a "standard" in the pet-fish marine hobby,
but often is too-damaged to recover, another Dwarf Angel of the genus
Centropyge, the Bicolor or Oriole Dwarf Angel, can still be kept... given you
know how, can secure an initially healthy specimen and "follow some basic rules"
that are more or less universal for the genus... Good sized, well-established
environment, lots of live rock with sufficient algae growth, a paucity of
aggressive tankmates... Zoogeography, Natural Habitat: Found on shallow reefs (near the surface to about 80 feet) on
scattered islands of the Indo-Pacific; the East African coast to Samoa
and Phoenix Islands, to southern Japan, south to Noumea (New Caledonia),
and throughout Micronesia. Live on broken/open reef areas, slopes
usually in pairs or small groups. Compatibility: This species exhibits both inter (between) and
intra (within) species aggression. Like most Dwarf Angels it is best
introduced as the last fish... and if more than one is to be housed in
the same system, the smaller ahead of the larger (by a few weeks). Bicolors can/do get along with most all reef
denizens that get along with them... with the following provisos: That
there is sufficient room for all. Please note, that though not generally
considered "reef safe", all species of Centropyge are found... where? On
reefs... Yes, they will at times nibble Tridacnid clam mantles, and may
consume soft and even some stony coral polyp (slime mostly) material.
However, given enough space, other foods, these fishes are indeed
suitable for stocking with most all reef life. The other item is the
general rule concerning animals not sharing a particular habitat niche.
Dwarf Angels don't like to "share" their algae patch rocks... and there
can be real trouble with similar sized Surgeonfishes, algae-eating
Wrasses if space is at a premium. Reciprocally, large/r species of angels, including
members of their own if too crowded... and "the usual suspects"...
Puffers, Lions, Triggers, piscivorous Morays... will consume them given
the chance. Specimen Selection: This is by far the most important time you
can/will spend in taking care of your fish... Take the time to
investigate, be aware of what a clean, healthy specimen looks like, and
more importantly, how it behaves: 1) Is the prospective purchase "bright", moving about, aware of your
presence, its tankmates? Cyanided specimens, ones that have not received
decent care in capture through your buying, may be "spaced out", having
"private parties" in the corner of the tank... leave them. 2) Examine the fish's body with great scrutiny. Puncture marks (from
decompression needling and other Angels' opercular spines mostly),
reddened areas, raised or missing scales, fin spines torn down to their
base... should disqualify a purchase. 3) Make sure the fish is feeding. Watch it carefully... is it moving
about, nibbling at the bottom, rock? Good.
Systems: Two aspects are critical in keeping Centropyge
healthy and happy: Space and nooks/crannies... They need room to move
about, darting in/out of holes, to feel safe, provide for forage surface
area. Lots of healthy live rock, not too many busy fish tankmates.
Seasoned systems over ones that are too new (months). How much space is enough? Sixty gallons is an
absolute minimum IMO/E... with much more if you intend to keep other
fishes, or more than one Centropyge. Foods/Feeding/Nutrition: Mmm, besides being doomed to start with... from
mis-handling, cyanide collection, not being fed in transit, overall
stress... likely "poor environment" ranks second and lack of nutrition
third as significant "reasons", sources of mortality for captive
Centropyge bicolor. What do they eat in the wild? Algae mainly green
filamentous algae and reds), crustaceans and worms. What will they eat
for you in captivity? Pretty much the same... how can you best provide
it/this? Not by flakes, pellets, sticks, frozen... but by having a
goodly amount of live rock, and/or even better some of this and a good
depth of substrate with plenty of infauna living, reproducing in it in a
tied-in living sump, a refugium. Besides needed habitat, the live rock can/will
present an ever-ready source of food organisms and forage opportunity.
Hence, if you intend to house this or any other Centropyge species, it
is STRONGLY recommended that you first procure, cure and culture your
live rock a few months ahead of its/their introduction. So, you don't see yours feeding? It's not
interested in those expensive foods you bought just for it? No worries.
As long as the fish appears "full" it is likely doing just fine feeding
on what there is in the system itself. If yours appears skinny, it is
far more likely that this is due to bullying (observe your livestock
carefully!) than a lack of food/feeding if there is a sufficient amount
of live rock present. Disease/Health: Centropyges are susceptible to the usual reef
scourges (Crypt and Velvet), but more insidious and dominant as sources
of mortality by far are injuries incurred during capture, handling,
transport and care from the wild to your dealers. Again, the strongest
urging on your part to thoroughly investigate how to discern the best
specimens, carefully select one, and isolate/quarantine it before
introduction to your main/display system. Quarantine as a concept is separate from the ideas
of actual treatment. There may be no need to "medicate" or modify the
environment (e.g. hyposalinity) a given animal. Simply placing in a
darkish, secluded (from traffic) spot, allowing a new purchase to "rest
up" and allow your observation for a few weeks may save you tremendous
troubles... versus abruptly releasing it into your principal aquarium. A few pieces of live rock for food and shelter
along with heating, and some filtration/aeration/circulation is likely
all that is required. Some Centropyge angels are notably sensitive to
copper medications... and some authors therefore proscribe the use of
alternative therapies and therapeutic agents (e.g. formalin). If you use
copper, I would make this a chelated format, with matching daily
testing, and keep the therapeutic dose/concentration on the lower end
(0.15-0.20 ppm of free cupric ion). Reproduction: The Bicolor has typical Centropyge reproductive
behavior... living in small groups in a haremic fashion... With one
dominant fish being the functional male, a few females and possibly some
undifferentiated juveniles. The male spawning with the females in turn,
cued by the environment (light, temperature, food availability...), the
eggs being buoyant, floating to the surface. Young developing, in turn
feeding on phyto- then zoo-plankters, being consumed as part of the
plankton themselves... If "fortunate" being pushed along to available
reef space, drifting down, converting to young... Male Bicolors are discernibly larger than females
with a bit more vibrant color and perhaps a bit of orange on their
flanks. Not to be too concerned re sexing however if it is your
intention to try breeding this species. As with all Centropyge species,
Orioles are synchronous protogynous hermaphrodites. They are "first
females" that given room, need can/do develop in turn into functional
females. If you have a large enough system, enough time going by, within
a grouping one will become a male. This species as yet is not produced in commercial
numbers (aquaculture), but all wild-collected. Though not endangered in
its natural habitats, it is collected more and more from further/distal
areas in the two countries of its principal collection (the Conclusion: The genus Centropyge, comprising most of the Dwarf
Angelfishes is a source of mixed blessings for the ornamental marine
trade and the public it serves. On the one hand, this is a group of
principally colorful, and always intelligent, playful reef species... on
the other, they often present hardiness and feeding issues to
uninitiated or aquarists unwilling to meet their needs. The principal
issues in keeping the Bicolor are mirrored by its congeners. The need
for space, hiding room, a dearth of "noise" from fish tankmates,
plentiful algal and other infaunal invertebrate food organisms.
Bibliography/Further Reading: Allen, Gerald R. 1985 (3d ed.). Butterfly and Angelfishes of the
World, v. 2. Aquarium Systems, OH. 352 pp. Allen, Gerald, Roger Steene & Mark Allen. 1998. A Guide to
Angelfishes & Butterflyfishes. Tropical Reef Research/Odyssey Burgess, Warren E., Herbert R. Axelrod & Raymond E. Hunziker. 1990.
Atlas of Aquarium Fishes Reference Book, v.2, Marine Fishes. T.F.H.
Publications, Inc. NJ. 768pp. Campbell, Douglas G. 1983. Marines: their care and keeping;
Centropyge: pts. 1,2. FAMA 3,4/83. Debelius, Helmut & Hans A. Baensch. 1994. Marine Atlas, v.1. MERGUS, Emmens, C.W. 1985. Smaller Pacific angelfishes. TFH 6/85. Fenner, Robert M. 1998. The Conscientious Marine Aquarist. Microcosm,
VT. 432pp. Fenner, Robert. 1998. Perfect little angels (Centropyge). TFH 4/98. Hemdal, Jay. 1989. Marine angelfish; color and style. AFM 8/89. Kuhling, D. Undated. Centropyge, dwarf angelfish who must eat
their greens! Aquarium Digest International #38. Kuiter, Rudie H. & Helmut Debelius. 1994. Michael, Scott W. Fishes for the marine aquarium; pts. 16 &17: Pygmy
angelfishes- diminutive, but beautiful; Some possible pygmy angels for
your marine tank. AFM 1,2/96. Moenich, David R. 1987. Angel food; the most important single factor
in keeping marine angels healthy is a varied diet. TFH 6/87. Moenich, David R. 1988. Pygmy angelfishes: the genus Centropyge.
TFH 1/88. Nelson, Joseph S. 1994. Fishes of the World. John Wiley & Sons, NY.
600pp. Steene, Roger C. 1985 (2d. ed.). Butterfly and Angelfishes of the
World, v.1. ( Stratton, Richard F. 1989. The bicolor angel. TFH 2/89. Taylor, Edward C. 1983. Marine angelfishes- thinking small. TFH 5/83. Thresher, R.E. 1984. Reproduction in reef fishes, pt. 3; Angelfishes
(Pomacanthidae). TFH 12/84. Wrobel, David. 1988. Dwarf angels of the genus Centropyge. SeaScope
Spr. 88.
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