FAQs on Betta Diseases: Environmental 2 (the most common cause) Related Articles: Betta Diseases, Betta Systems, Anabantoids/Gouramis &Relatives, Betta splendens/Siamese Fighting Fish , Improved (Better?) Products for Bettas!, Related FAQs: Environmental 1, Environmental 3, Environmental 4, Environmental 5, & Betta Disease 1, Betta Disease 2, Betta Disease 3, Betta Disease 4, Betta Disease 5, Betta Disease 6, Betta Disease 7, Betta Disease 8, Betta Disease 9, Betta Disease 10, Betta Disease 11, Betta Disease 12, Betta Disease 13, Betta Disease 14, Betta Disease 15, Betta Disease 16, Betta Disease 17, Betta Disease 18 ,Betta Disease 19, Betta Disease 20, Betta Disease 21 Betta Health 22, Betta Health 23, Betta Health 24, Betta Health 25, Betta Health 26, Betta Health 28, Betta Health 29, Betta Health 30, Betta Health 31, Betta Disease Causes/Etiologies: Determining/Diagnosing, Nutritional, Viral/Cancer, Infectious (Bacterial, Fungal) , Parasitic: Ich/White Spot, Velvet; Senescence/Old Age, Cures/Curatives/Treatments, & Bettas in General, Betta ID/Varieties, Betta System, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Nitrogen Cycling, Betta Behavior, Betta Compatibility FAQs, Betta Selection, Betta Feeding, Betta Reproduction,

New Print and eBook on Amazon Betta Success Doing what it takes to keep Bettas healthy long-term by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Sick Betta- Tried everything with no luck.... May be BGA...   2/27/12
Hello,
I am an avid reader and am so thankful to have found your site last year. I am desperate need of help. I've looked through the site and was unable to find a situation similar to mine. I have a big, beautiful red Betta. Tank specs: 5 gallons, heated between 76-78 degrees, filtered, gravel bottom, 2 live plants (both ok for Bettas) 1 synthetic plant to help keep current from filter slower. I do a 25% water change at least every two weeks, and a 50% water change once a month. I use a water conditioner and aquarium salt.
He gets a varied diet of Betta pellets and shrimp. I have studied and researched your site to try and provide him with the best care possible. Up until now he was happy, healthy and playful. In fact I was able to nurse him though a bout of Ick when I first got him with your knowledgeable help.
<Ok>
About a month ago I noticed dark green algae
<This might well be a Blue-green... Cyanobacteria... can be quite toxic>
 starting to grow in his tank. I tried to manage it by cleaning the spots that showed up when I'd do his water change. It got to be worse than normal so I decided to take him out and clean out the tank and gravel. I am very careful about contaminants and do my best to keep things as stable as possible in such a small system. After adding him back into the tank he was in bad shape in less than 24 hours.
<I further suspect BGA... becomes more toxic w/ attempts to remove>
At first I though it might be a stomach problem, minor swelling on his belly. I treated by adding aquarium salt to reduce the pressure and didn't feed him for several days. No change. He was and is spending considerable time on the bottom of the tank and at the top on his plants. He seems to have difficulty swimming, unable to stay at the top of the water, sinking back down.
Next I tried just maintaining his usual routine and keeping the water conditions normal as they had been, hoping he would normalize.
<This is what I would have done as well>
 He seemed to get a little better and was eating regularly again, if not as much- would float back down after two or three bites. Now he's in worse shape and the algae is back. He hasn't eaten or responded to me in the last two days now. I'm worried he's suffering and I'm at a complete loss. Please let me know if there is anything else I can do? And if not, how best to end his suffering painlessly. Thank you for your time.
<Mmm, please read here for background:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwbgafaqs.htm
I might go the extreme route here of removing the fish... tossing the live plants... bleaching the entire system... rinsing, re-filling... and moving the fish through a few rinses (to discount the conveyance of BGA spores) to eliminate the Cyano. Bob Fenner> 
Re: Sick Betta- Tried everything with no luck....   2/28/12
Thank you so much, Bob! I went through and read the posts about the BGA- nasty stuff. I'm pretty sure now that that is exactly what it is.
<Was/is my best guess>
The tank has been getting more sunlight recently and I wondered if that was causing the algae to grow.
<Could well be>
 I know algae is common in tanks, but I wondered if this was a type that was harmful to the fish.
<There are bio-assays... I think you've been doing one>
 I'm going to remove him from the tank, bleach the system as you recommended and start fresh with the plants. I hope it's not too late and that I can get him to bounce back. I really appreciate your time to email me back. The amount of time and research that you all put into the website is phenomenal. It is so reassuring to know that there is a credible,
reliable source that I can trust.  Take care!
<And you my friend. BobF>
Re: Sick Betta- Tried everything with no luck....   Non-aq. plants     2/28/12
Hi again. I have one last follow up question. I've gone and bleached the system, replaced the gravel and added new plants (umbrella plants).
<Mmm, what is this... the scientific name? There are several popular "aquarium" plants sold that are actually not aquatic>
I picked up a new filter- Tetra whisper 10i internal power filter. It says it works with up to 10 gal tanks. It looks to be a little bigger than my previous filter, also a Tetra whisper. I'm concerned that its too strong for him, especially right now when he is not at full health.
<Likely is fine>
I've placed the plants around the filter to try and disperse the flow, I'm not sure its enough. I'm also torn because I know that the more water movement, the better to keep the BGA from growing again. Unfortunately it doesn't have a flow control. I've read through the filter posts and seen that both the gravel filters and sponge filters are recommended for Bettas.
<Or small internal or external power filters... there are even smaller units>
 I don't think I'll be able to find those in my area.
<Can be ordered via etailers like Dr.s Foster & Smith (.com)>
 I know I can order them online, however my main question is this: should I leave the filter off in the meantime?
<Yes; I would>
Second: What do you personally recommend for a filter for a 5 gal Betta tank? He's a pretty big Betta and used to be a strong swimmer...
<Mmm, you could just search w/ the string "Betta system filters"... Whisper 3i...>
Thank you again for your advice!
<Not advice; and this may seem something similar, but what I'd likely do given the stated circumstances. BobF>
Re: Sick Betta- Tried everything with no luck.... Non-aq. plants     2/28/12
In regards to the plants, they're Top Fin from PetSmart- growl - I did add some semi-aquatic Golden Ribbon plants (Dracaena variegatus?)
<This genus is terrestrial... see WWM re... the search tool>
 to float on the top which I've used before without any issues I thought, and the umbrella plants (were sold to me as aquatic, growl again. I'm not sure on the scientific name, but they do look similar the Anubias plants?).
<Also not likely truly aquatic>
 Looking on the posts regarding stocking tanks with live plants I see that PetSmart and Top Fin have used non-aquatic plants? For crying out loud, I am so disgusted with those people.
<Yes; unfortunately>
 I won't go into detail the problems I've had with them and the horrible information I've received- I've gone back after speaking with them and researched on your site to find that the information was just bad.
Unfortunately, I'm in Montana and at this point I have very little resources for my fish. Is there an online resource for good quality live plants?
<Quite a few actually. Search... read Aquariumplants (.com)>
Or is there at least one thing that PetSmart might have that would be safe for my guy?
<My fave: Ceratopteris>
 I am going to check and see if they have any of the following grasses by any chance: Anacharis/Elodea/Egeria, Myriophyllum/Parrotfeather, Ceratophyllum/Coontail. >
<These are too cold-water to be of tropical use. B>

Male Siamese fighter fish. Cats, in uncycled sys. 2/19/12
Hello,
<Laura>
I have recently set up a freshwater aquarium. Left it running for four days after set-up before introducing any fish.
<Not long enough... Not "cycled"... Read here please:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwset-up.htm
and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
I added in a male Siamese fighter fish and three glass catfish
<... will soon be dead very likely>
five days ago. The Siamese fighters underbelly has started to turn a silver colour, around the gills and just below them, he also looks slightly swollen around that area. He is still active and feeding. This is my first tropical aquarium and having searched through Betta diseases and cures, I still can't pinpoint what could be the cause of this. Your help would be much appreciated.
Thank you.
<Do read; write back if you have further questions. Bob Fenner>

Little fin colored bumps on his tail 2/5/12
Hi everyone. I have a little problem. A few weeks ago, my crown tail Betta (Dinner), developed a couple of tiny pin-head bumps on his tail fin. Before he developed those bumps, I've also notice a "break" at the tip of one of the tail fins. Like how a stem attached to a leaf had been broken and it's hanging there. He's eating fine, swimming energetically and bowel movements are good. He hasn't made any nests for a while though. I do a 50% water change every week for his 3 gallon tank that doesn't have a filter or heater (room is very warm).
<Needs to have both a heater and filter. There are small units made for just such settings>
And, I also wash all the rocks and a fake fabric plant (with very hot water) before I do his water change (de-chlorinated tap water) every other week. He doesn't look like he has fin rot, or any other symptoms of other illnesses except for what I've described. Unfortunately, I've been looking online for days and still haven't found an answer. What could this be?
<In two words: environmental stress. Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above>
Thanks for your time and help.
Cecilia
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Little fin colored bumps on his tail 2/7/12
Thank you very much for your help ^_^
<Welcome. BobF>

Betta diagnosis, uncycled system... 2/5/12
Hi,
My Betta has a *white under his fins area*, like the one in the picture found at this link:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/betdisfaq7.htm (mine is a blue male)
I'm *currently cycling the tank*, just started yesterday. I have two Corys in there with him, and I hope they make it.
*10 Gallon* with gravel. I was suggested to use Nutrafin cycle (biological aquarium supplement) to help ease the process for the fish.
<This Hagen product is too "hit or miss"; do look for Dr. Tim's "One and Only" (formerly BioSpira); a steady worker>
What do you think is *wrong with the Betta*?
<Can't tell from the information offered, no image... Could be just normal coloration... Shouldn't be in a system that's not cycled... Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettadiseases.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Thank you!

Injured Betta 12/28/11
Hello,
<Hi there>
We have a Betta who is about a year old and up until recently seemed to be in good health. My problem is that it appears one of my cats has mauled him.
<Yikes!>
His fins are just about shredded. We have isolated him in our small five gallon and have put in some aquarium salt and bettafix. He is still able to swim and is not having trouble getting to the top for air. My question I suppose is will the injuries he has kill him?
<Maybe not>
We did have the water tested and we do regular water changes. He was previously in a tank with a female Betta, a zebra Danio and a couple of neon tetras. Just wondering is there a possibility he will recover?
<Certainly>
Should we just wait and see?
<Yes; is what I'd do>
Is there anything else we can do for him? We generally feed flakes and bloodworms for a treat.
Thanks
Jackie
<Nothing else I would do. Bob Fenner>

Bettas... Sys. 12/25/11
I have several crown tail Bettas and a veil tail Betta, all do very well.
We have now tried the delta tail and double tail and have had no luck. Both wound up dying.
<Mmm, all the same species, degrees of hardiness>
The fins seem to start fraying or splitting and not long we loose <lose> them. The one delta tail we have left is now starting to loose his fins in back. they look like they are just fraying or melting, splitting etc. They are not very bad at the moment but are getting worse. I have tried several things, Maracyn 2, Maracyn Plus, Revive, salt and heat to no avail. They have 2.5 gal. with an AZoo filter which I like because you can cut the flow way down so as not to bother them to much. I do weekly water changes. Most have been 100% changes with full cleaning.
<Umm, do you measure aspects of nitrogenous accumulation? Likely simple ammonia (and/or nitrite) accumulation are killing these fish>
I have changed and only do 25% to maybe 50% changes. I have 2 crown tails in 1 gal. jars w/no filter,
<Need to clean more often and/or have filters>
2 crowns in 2.5 gal. tanks w/filter, plants etc. All with haters ,lights etc. All of these are at least a year old. No problems. We have now have a delta tail which we do not want to loose with this tail problem like we lost the others. This will be the 3rd one we have tried ,the other 2 died delta and double tail. I am at wits end. Nothing seems to work or I have not used the right meds.Melifix
<Worthless>
makes the fins worse very quickly,pimafix did no harm nor help. I didn't expect much from those anyway but was not expecting Melafix to make it worse. I am lost for a cure. Can you suggest anything?
<Yes. Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlvstkind2.htm
scroll down to Bettas... Systems...>
Is it just in the jean <Heeee!> of these type of tails for this fish?
In need of help,
Randy
<Just reading/understanding. Bob Fenner>
Re: Bettas 12/25/11
Thanks for a quick response. I find this information as of no help.
<Don't write. READ where you were referred>
The fish that has bad fins is in a 2.5 gal. tank, cycled. Temp set and maintains 80F constant. Ph. at 6.6 -7.0 0 ammonia and nitrate levels. softness around 8.
I use partial water from a neon ,10 Gal, tank that is filtered with super peat to soften water. The 2.5 Is filtered with an aazo palmer filter.
I have tried changing water twice a week with 50% changes. His fins stay in recession and are gradually getting worse. If I can't find a cure that works we will eventually loose him also. I have other bettas in jars and been there for at least a year and are doing great. So the Betta with bad fins is in a Hilton compared to the others. We have a total of 8 Betta's. Some in jars, some in 2.5 filtered tanks. The others are Crown Tails and Veil Tails.
The only trouble we have every had is with the Double and Halfmoon Tails that get this on there tail fins and so far we have found no help or cure.
So if prime water conditions are not helping is there any other course of Action I can take. Are there any Meds. that I have not tried that could possibly lead to a cure? I use regular pea size gravel for substrate as with all my tanks. The water is in Prime condition so I do not feel this is the problem. If it were we would see it the other fish as well, I could be wrong. I have not tried Maracyn?????????? Maracyn 2 yes but not plain Maracyn.
Do you think that might help or would that be a waste of money also?
Thanks so much for your help and hope we can find something that works,
Randy

My sickly Betta, env. 12/5/11
Hi, may name is Jayme, and i have a 1.5 year old Betta, names Jericho.
The last few days i have noticed the colour of Jericho start to turn a pinkish colour on his usually blue/ red fins, and his colour start to drain on hit blue/green body.
<Mmm>
I have had issues with fin rot before, and have treated it. And his back fins seems to have gotten smaller over the past few days, again.
<... is this system heated? Filtered?>
He is either hanging out at the bottom, or hanging out at the top where he can get air easily. He also seems to have lost some weight, and looks more frail than ever. When going to change his water today, i noticed some odd coloration by his gills, an almost white/pink colour. When i went to feed him today, he would pick up the food, then spit it back out. This is odd for him, because usually he is the first to eat everything put in there.
The underside of his head seems to be tuning grey as well as the bottom side of his whole body.
I don't understand what is happening, because before this he seemed like a fairly happy fish, only have the occasional problem which could usually be fixed usuaing bettafix.
<Worse than worthless IMO>
And also, over the last few water changes, i have been noticing a fine layer of scum over the top of the bowl,
<Environmental... Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above>
a very clear layer that you don't even know is there, until you take it off..
I thank you very much if you can help me, i don't want him to die.
Sincerely,
Jayme.
<The problem here is lack of suitability of the environment... Betta splendens need clean, consistently warm/tropical water. Can't live long or well in bowls in most all cases. Bob Fenner>

Bubbles the Betta
Bubbles the Betta env/health 12/1/11
Hello!! <Hiya!>
I am writing on behalf of my 7 year olds Betta fish, Bubbles. He is a male veiltail that I bought approximately 2 months ago. He has now lost his vivid blue color, and I fear he is becoming ill and want to help get him well. <Okay, identifying that there is a problem is half the battle>His tank is a 1 gal, has a peace lily, glass stones, no other fish. <Yikes! Less than ideal conditions. This Betta is a vase fad is really cruelty to the fish.> I was told at the pet store not to use a filter, as the sound stresses Bettas. <Oh no! Not the case, You don't want dramatic flow that will blow the fish away but you do need filtration to keep the water clean and stable.> I change about 30-50% of the water weekly and replace with Poland spring water to which I always add a Fizz Tab Water conditioner and let the new water sit in the same room as Bubbles overnight before adding the water to the tank so as not to shock him. <Okay, assume the conditioner is for chlorine and letting it sit will help the temperature get stable.> I was told not to do a total tank cleanse, as Bettas need some of the natural bacteria from their water, so I haven't cleaned the tank completely in those 2 months we have had him. <Please read here. The bacteria you refer to are part of a critical process called the nitrogen cycle. This is of paramount importance to the health of your fish -
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwestcycling.htm>
It has gotten chilly here in CT, so I turned on the heat in my son's room (even before the rest of my house!) in order to keep Bubbles warm enough.
Though I read the water should be almost 80 degrees...I don't think it's that warm here. What type of heater should I get? <In a 1 gallon, not many options. I would recommend moving this fish to a 5 gallon tank with filter and heater. Some aquatic plants would give you a similar look to the one you are going for now.>
We feed him one Tetra Betta floating mini-pellet everyday upon the advice of the store where we got Bubbles. <Ok>
I have removed him from his tank and put him in the small cup he came to us in, just in the hopes that I can stabilize his condition and get to the bottom of the problem if it has to do with his tank. <No, this will not help. It will only make things worse. Less water, more pollution, less stable. Pet stores that keep Betta in cups are doing the fish harm. Please do not replicate this in the home environment. Read here for information on viable Betta systems -
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/bettasysart.htm>
Picture attached, as you can see, his fins are no longer blue. They still look the same otherwise; they have not torn, etc. <This fish is suffering for environmental stress as a result of the conditions provided. Do read above and act accordingly.>
Many thanks for any advice, as you can tell, it's my first fish too! Cheryl
<Like I said at the start, you have already taken a step in the right direction by seeking opinions/reading online. Please do read the links above and provide the fish with more suitable conditions. Good luck!
Sugam>

Can't Stop Fin Rot in Betta (RMF, could admixing of chemicals be at play here?)<<Yes>> 9/11.5/11 Hello, I am desperate!! <Oh?> My Betta Kasan, has fin rot and it seems that it might be severe. I saved him from a Wal-Mart where I found him in water that was pure ammonia. I got him around a month ago. I set him up in a 5gal. tank, with pad & foam filters, water temperature at 78Ã'´F and I check the ammonia level about twice a week and always come out at 0. <All sounds good.> I noticed that he started to have some fin rot about a week after I got him; when I did his first water change (I do a 25% water change every week) I decided to put half a tablet of Jungle Clear (in the box it says that 1 tablet for 10gal) & 4 days later, with a 25% change I put in the second dose. I saw a very small improvement, so I decided not to medicate again. Give Kasan a rest. <Sometimes a good idea, but often not. Many medications work best if used quickly a second time if the first course didn't work. It is a good idea to do a big water change, 50% say, between medication courses though.> A few days later I noticed that the black fringe he had was gone & that the areas that were translucent started to fall. I did not worry thinking that it meant that his fin would heal. But it didn't, it started to recede; his fin is getting shorter. So I medicated him with Maracyn & Maracyn Two for five days, with the doses adjusted for his tank size. <All sounds sensible.> I did not remove the filter for it said in the instructions not to & I was told unless it was a carbon filter, it was not necessary. I finished his last dose 8 days ago & I don't know if I should give him a second round of Maracyn and/or Maracyn Two or Jungle Clear (that worked wonders with Willy, my previous Betta RIP). I tried to find Kanacyn but it is not in any of the local fish stores (I have only one to go but it far away). Like I mentioned before I do weekly water change (25%) to Kasan 5gal tank, the new water I prepare has 2 teaspoons of API Aquarium Salt (most people tell me to put 1-2 tablespoons or 3-6 teaspoons, but it makes me nervous that it might be to much salt for a Betta in a 5gal tank), <Well, the amount of salt isn't the issue so much as the concentration: 1 teaspoon in 10 gallons is the same concentration as 100 teaspoons in 1000 gallons. But in any event, I wouldn't use salt in a Betta aquarium without good reason. There's much mythology on the topic of salt in freshwater tanks including Betta systems, but unfortunately, little or no science to back it up.> also Tetra Aqua AquaSafe as water conditioner, API Algaefix, Top Fin Ammonia Remover (just in case the water conditioner didn't get all). I mix all of this ingredients in the water before I added to the tank. <I think you'd overkilling here. Too much stuff. Forget the ammonia remover and the algae killer. The first is redundant if the water conditioner did it's job, which it will, and the second is not only pointless but potentially harmful. Algae killing stuff is a poison, as you'd expect, and dead algae will reduce water quality. On top of all this, the more chemicals you mix, the less predictable the results. A medication that's safe on it own could be dangerous mixed with a second medication. So stick to just the water conditioner for the tap water, and then add medicine for Finrot if required. Stop the salt, the ammonia remover, and the algae potion.> I got with the tank a little bottle of Nutrafin Cycle Biological Aquarium Supplement, that I've been tempted to use, but I have read very negative things, most of all that it is useless, any thoughts?? <Again, would not use. If the aquarium is more than a couple weeks old, you already have the bacteria starting to do their thing. If ammonia and nitrite levels are zero, then the filter is doing it's job and doesn't need any more magic potions.> I feed Kasan twice a day, 2 pellets of Aqueon Betta Food & on surprised occasions I give him a couple of freeze dried bloodworms by Tetra (Willy loved them!!) <If the Finrot is still a problem, do first start by checking water quality, specifically, nitrite (with an "I", not nitrate with an "a"). If this is not zero, then filtration and water quality are the issues. Stop feeding, do a 20% water changes, and keep doing such water changes daily for at least a week after detecting nitrite. You can go without feeding your fish for a week without problems, and when you do feed, provide only the smallest meals, the size of the fish's eye being ample. If nitrite level is zero, then the Finrot medication should work well but I'd still be super-cautious about overfeeding.> So is there anything I have to change?? Should I medicate him again?? Maracyn? Maracyn Two? Jungle Clear? All of them? If the answer is yes, Should I administer the same way I did before? Please help!!! Thank you for your time, Ana <Hope this helps, Neale.>

Re: Can't Stop Fin Rot in Betta (RMF, could admixing of chemicals be at play here?) <<Yes>> 9/22/11 Hi, thnx for the help! <Glad to be of assistance.> I've done what you have recommended. Stopped all of the quemicals except for the water conditioner. <Good.> Ammonia level still at 0. Everything is as I said before. I've been medicating Kasan with Maracyn & Maracyn II. I'm on the fourth dose of the second treatment. After the first treatment, he didn't seem to get better but he wasn't getting worse. That is why I continued with a second treatment. All seemed well, until today, when I noticed that the fin rot has started on his top fin also. It was ok before. What else can I do? I now I can't give him more Maracyn I or/& II. Should I retry with Jungle Fungus Clear & for how long? <If it's Finrot, you need a Finrot medication. If it's Fungus, you need a Fungus medication. Don't confuse them! Maracyn products are mostly for Finrot, while Fungus Clear is for Fungus. Some medications treat both, notably things like Kanaplex, Paraguard and eSHa 2000. Do follow instructions carefully, and do remember to remove carbon while medicating (if you use carbon).> Again thank you for your help��. <Cheers, Neale.>

New tank fears. 9/5.5/11
I purchased a tank for a Betta and after getting to college found out a piece of the filter is missing. I am trying to get the piece I need from the company. I also realized I forgot to get a heater and have ordered one online. I hope to get both very soon. Thankfully the dorms are kept excessively warm and Ryu's (my Betta)water doesn't seem too chilled. Will he be okay until the parts come in?
<Let's hope so>
What warning signs should I watch for and what can I do to try to assist him until they do?
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettadiseases.htm
and the linked files above when/where you find time, the inclination to be informed thus>
He seems very happy right now (beautiful fins, playing with the (unfortunately plastic) plant in the tank, and driving me crazy with his begging habits) and I am keeping my eye on the water to make sure it stays crystal clear for now.
*~* Rebeka *~*
<Thank you for writing, caring. Bob Fenner>

sick Betta, no idea what's wrong with it - 10/21/10
Hi,
My Betta was looking fine and active before I changed the water. And after I did a full tank change yesterday(I don't have a filter, but has a heater and air pump), he's starting to act weird. He would hide under rocks and taking huge mouthfuls, look like he can't breath. I thought it might be toxic, so I did another 20% water change, and situation stays the same.
As far as water conditioner goes, I use Aqueon Betta Bowl Plus, he lives in a 1 gallon tank, so I follow the instruction by adding 5ml of water conditioners.
Some other facts, I don't know if it relates. You use to have a very sick crown tail Betta and he's fine until my mom did changed the water, he Died the next day. (using Aqueon, before I use Betta bowl essential some other brand I don't remember)
So I brought a New Betta, and also using this water conditioner, that Betta has the same behavior as my Betta now.
The first time I use this conditioner my Betta seems fine...I have no idea what's going on.
<Greetings. You haven't actually provided us with any useful information. But it's almost certain though that poor environment is the problem, at some level. Despite what some people will tell you, you need at least 5 gallons to keep a Betta, and you also need a filter as well as a heater. The filter should be a biological filter and correctly maintained just as in any other aquarium, such that ammonia and nitrite levels are zero. Yes, I know some breeders keep Bettas in bowls without filters, but these are experts doing daily, sometimes twice daily, water changes. Because they're putting in a lot of work to make sure water temperature and chemistry remain constant, and also because they have heated fish rooms to keep air temperature warm as well, keeping them this way is viable, if not particularly exciting for the Betta. For a causal aquarist like you, you must have a filtered, heated aquarium. 20-25% weekly water changes will do if the Betta is kept this way. So ditch the 1 gallon tank, install a proper filter, and set the heater to 25-28 C/77-82 F. Otherwise adding all the potions you want will be pointless. Unless you've diagnosed a particular problem, you shouldn't need to add anything other water conditioner to the aquarium. It's a shame that pet shops sell Bettas so cheaply, because the assumption is often that they're cheap pets to keep. They aren't pot plants and they can't live in jars! Bettas can live for as much as 4 years, but the average specimen sold in a generic pet shop is lucky to survive three months after sale. So while you perhaps don't know what the exact problem is, but do recognise that there is a problem, I'm almost certain that in some way your lack of care is what's killing your Bettas. In short, read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/betta_splendens.htm
Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>

My Betta's skin  7/7/10
Hi my name is Collin and I have had my Crowntail Betta, Shadow, for about a year and a half. Lately, his skin has started to acquire black spots. More and more come every month. He lives in a 1.5 gallon tank, alone, with an
air pump filter, and a heater during the winter because I live in a warm environment and his water usually stays between 79 and 81 degrees. I change his water about every 2 weeks to a month. I have looked on your site, but
did not see anything like this. Please give me some advice.(If you cannot access the picture email me back please) Thanks, Collin
<Hello Collin. Nope, couldn't see the picture at all. Do please send a JPEG or a GIF, at an image size of no more than 500 KB. What you sent was called "VIDEO_TS.BUP" and while that's obviously some type of movie, it's not much use to me at all. In any case, black spots on fish can often be down to ammonia burns, so that's what I'd be looking at. Ammonia accumulates in tanks without filters, or where the filters are improperly maintained. The
fact your aquarium is far too small is making things worse. Bettas need at least 5 gallons -- they're fish, not cut flowers -- and maintenance in jars like the one you have simply isn't humane. Upgrade the tank, and install a
heater if necessary -- "usually" at 80 degrees F doesn't mean much if it gets much colder at night when you aren't looking at the thermometer. Make sure the filter works properly and is properly configured. You don't need
carbon in the filter, but you do need healthy biological media. That media should be gently rinsed in a bucket of aquarium water every couple of weeks, but certainly not rinsed under a tap or replaced with completely new
material. The bottom line is that when people [a] don't keep their Bettas in 5+ gallon tanks; [b] don't install a heater to keep them constantly warm; and [c] don't properly filter the water, their Bettas get sick. Any further discussion about a sick Betta is largely pointless without first making sure you're providing the right environment. That you've kept this chap alive for 1.5 years is good, and it suggests that you're basically getting everything right. But as fish get older their immune system weakens, and slight problems can end up causing more serious healthcare issues, as may be the case here. Cheers, Neale.>

Betta problems... iatrogenic, env. 5/24/10
I`ve got 6 Bettas in 6 different bowls, each in about a gallon of water. 4 males and 2 females. One of them, Mr. Kite, pink/red Cambodian coloring, and is in the biggest bowl (1 3/4 gallons) has "Swimbladder" problems (I know
its just a term for a set of symptoms, but at least you know what I`m talking about).
<Ok>
I`ve tried treating it in several different ways, but none are working.
<... Bettas need heated, filtered systems... W/o providing for clean, warm water there is great likelihood of having such troubles>
I`ve tried not feeding him for a few days in the case of over feeding (I only feed about 2 pellets a day, 1 in the morning and 1 at night), I`ve cleaned the bowl, I`ve put in better hideouts (for possible stress), but nothing`s worked. I`m gonna try getting bloodworms to vary his diet also. All of my other Bettas are treated exactly the same as him, same food, changes at the same time, only difference is that he`s in the biggest bowl, which I`d think would reduce chances of problems. He was fine for the first year I`ve had him (he`s about a year and a few months). My first Betta is still living at 3 years old, so what I`m doing seems to be successful, I even (accidentally) bought a finrotted fish and treated it. I keep the house temp. around 75 degrees.
<Mmm, too low... water temp. is even lower... Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/betta_splendens.htm
and the linked files above>
I`m getting a fancy guppy tank together (4-6 guppies in 10 gallons w/ heating and filtration) would it help him if I
moved him into there (I`m guessing not, all being male and long finned and the Betta being medium aggressive)?
<Might, but will go after the guppies... chew on long tail fins of males>
If necessary a divider could be used. Is he just a fluke fish who`s prone to problems?
<Could be more susceptible>
He jumped out of the net once, only a short fall, but could that have had an effect (it started around then)? I know ya`ll don`t care much for bowls, but my fish are healthy (except for Mr. Kite) and seemingly happy (especially my pearl female).
Regardless of whether it helps or not, I will be getting bloodworms to vary all their diets and eventually getting bigger heated aquariums once I can afford it, to make it even more comfortable for them.
<Keep reading. Bob Fenner>

Re: Betta problems... 5/24/10
Ok, I`ll be able to get him in a heated tank within about a month or 2,
<Do look into "multiple Betta systems"... you're a candidate... That have heat, filtration...>
in the meantime I`ll try diet change.
Thanks for your help!
<Welcome. BobF>

Jittery Betta fish 4/26/10
Dear Crew at WetWebMedia,
After reading extensively through the information on your (very useful) site, I concluded that the 5 litre (1.3 gallon) unheated vase was inadequate for Tybalt,
<Cute.>
and got him an 18 litre (approx 5 gallon) tank with a heater. I also got him an Anubias plant (approx 14cm/5.5 inches tall). I do not however, have a filter.
<Ah, this will cause problems in the long term. While you don't need anything fancy, an air-powered sponge filter will dramatically improve the longevity of this fish.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
>
The tank sits on my desk (where I spend a lot of time, because I am a student), and is well lit by the overhead desk lamp during the day.
<They really don't like overhead light. If you can, filter the light with floating plants, such as Indian Fern.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/ceratopteris.htm
Likewise fish hate upwelling light, so if you got suckered into non-dark substrate, e.g., white sand or some other garish colour, that's going to freak your fish out too. Black sand is good, and plain vanilla gravel even better.>
Unfortunately, ever since I moved him the bigger tank Tybalt seems very anxious and skittish. When I raise my hand or touch the glass on the outside of the tank he dashes away from me and hides in the corner! His little fins whirring in agitation! He never used to run away from me when he was in the bowl. In fact he would usually come closer when I approached him (probably because he thought he was about to be fed). My question is, what can I do to make Tybalt feel safer and happier? Does he need a dark background?
<Fish generally do not like tanks where light can shine right through. It's corny I know, but having the tank against a wall, so that one side is dark, dramatically improves things.>
Or more hiding places? If so, do Bettas prefer plants, little caves, or tubes?
<Anything that floats. Plants are great, but you can get floating plastic knickknacks of various types that can work.>
Alternatively, is he lonely? Would he be happier if I bought another (gentle, non fin nipping) fish to share the tank with him?
<Nope.>
Many thanks for your help,
<No problem.>
Alison
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Jittery Betta fish, env. dis.... 4/28/10
Dear Neale,
<Alison,>
Alas! Disaster has struck! Tybalt has turned into a vegetable! He hasn't moved or eaten for the last 36 hours! He is floating motionless at the surface of the water. His fins are tightly clamped. He is completely unresponsive to food and movement. However, I know he is still alive because his gills are moving.
<First of all, check water chemistry, quality, and temperature. For Bettas, you want good water quality (0 ammonia and nitrite), water chemistry that isn't extreme or variable (around pH 7, 5-15 degrees dH is ideal), and a temperature around 28-30 C/82-86 F.>
I am sorry to bother you again, but I don't think that there is information on WetWebMedia that deals with this particular problem. What I've read suggests that this sort of catatonic behaviour in Bettas is usually due either to poor water quality, or low water temperature.
<Indeed.>
I'm pretty sure that neither of these things can be causing Tybalt's vegetative state. He's in 18 litre tank all by himself and has only been there since Saturday (4 days), so the water must be clean.
<Eh? No, no, no. "Clean" water is water that is filtered through a mature biological filter. A new tank filled with dechlorinated tap water may *look* clean but it's anything but clean. All tanks go through a cycling process that lasts around 4-6 weeks, during which time the filter matures.
In the case of a Betta aquarium, the best filters are air-powered sponge filters or air-powered box filters filled with ceramic noodles. These need to be matured before the Betta is introduced by some sort of "fishless cycling" method, typically the addition of ammonia or pinches of fish food across several weeks. If you haven't done this, then your tank isn't mature, and the water quality inside the tank will be poor. Let's be crystal clear here: most fish die because of water quality issues, and most water quality issues come down to not cycling the tank properly before the fish were introduced. If you haven't cycled the tank before buying the fish, then you have to do a "cycling with fish" method. In a nutshell, you feed the fish very slightly ever other day, and only if it wants food. On a
daily basis you change 25% of the water, and about 50% every seventh day.
This will get you through the lethal first 3-4 weeks, after which point your nitrite test kit should reveal nitrite levels are quickly dropping down towards zero.>
And he has a heater set to 26 degrees (Celsius).
<Below optimum, but not the issue here. Do note that the number on the heater bears little relation to how hot the water actually is, so use a thermometer.>
Can you think of any other reasons he might be behaving this way? I am desperate to save him if I can. Should I do a complete water change to make certain that there isn't something in the water killing him? Or could that be dangerously stressful to him in his current state??
<See above.>
He is upright so I don't think he has swim bladder disease. He had a bit of fungus when I first bought him (about two weeks ago) but I treated this with Wardley's Prometheyasul and it seems better. I haven't fed him anything live, which I think makes it unlikely that he has a parasite.
Pursuant to your last email, I got him some floating plants (java fern) to filter his light, so he shouldn't be freaked out by that anymore. Any advice you could offer would be greatly appreciated.
<Check the biological filter, and use either a nitrite or ammonia test kit to make sure it is working.>
Alison
<Cheers, Neale.>

Betta Health Issue ++ 04/22/10
Dear Wet Web Crew,
I have had my Betta, Kail, off and on for almost 3 years (he spent a year with my ex-boyfriend who changed his pebbles to gravel, and when I got him back I was appalled at the filth in the tank). He lives a lonely existence in a nice little one gallon tank
<Too small.>
with an air filter and clear pebbles.
<Needs a heater.>
I feed him once a day with Atlantis Betta Food and clean out his tank whenever if looks like it needs to be cleaned, which is about once a week.
He has always been a lazy fish hanging out in the bottom of the tank. He has always been picky about his food, not really eating much if eating at all.
<If there's no heater, then likely his metabolism isn't high enough.>
When I finally found a food he liked he would rush to the top and snap it up the moment it hit the water. However, lately he just lays at the bottom of the tank and doesn't move for the food.
<Likely poor environmental conditions.>
Today, I noticed that he has a lump on his side and though I have Googled for the possible cause of this lump I have yet to find the answer.
<Could easily be a tumour, possibly from reduced immune response thanks to inadequate water temperature.>
Please take a look at the attached photos and see if you can help Kail.
<Nothing attached.>
Thanks,
Gina
<Gina, most sick Bettas are sick because people keep them badly. Tanks that are too small and unheated are common reasons. Do read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
Do also check water quality and water chemistry. You're aiming for 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, pH around 7, hardness 5-20 degrees dH, and a steady temperature of 25-30 degrees C/77-86 degrees F. Cheers, Neale.>

Betta fish looks bloated and is sitting at the bottom of the tank 4/16/10
Hi there -
<Hello,>
For about the last week our Betta has been sitting at the bottom of the tank a lot more than usual.
<How big is this tank? Bettas really do need 5 gallons or so, and in smaller tanks problems of various kinds are much more common. Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
This covers all the basic things Bettas need.>
I took a sample of his water in and got it tested:
Nitrates 0
Nitrites 0
Hardness 120
Alkaline 80
Ph 6.4
<All fine and within the parameters preferred by Betta splendens.>
He is in a tank heated to 82 degrees, a filter, weekly water changes and we feed him live bloodworms and the occasional frozen bloodworm.
<Now, bloodworms are a good food for fish in many ways, but they really shouldn't be the sole food item. Used to excess, there are reports of them causing digestive problems, and some retailers I know simply don't use bloodworms at all when maintaining delicate species such as Discus. So, while I'd certainly use wet-frozen bloodworms once or twice a week with any fish, the diet should be more varied, and the inclusion of a good quality
dried food a couple of times a week is a good way to make sure a fish gets all the vitamins it needs. Bettas are prone to constipation, and the use of live daphnia/brine shrimp, or cooked/tinned peas, provides essential fibre.>
Yesterday he had a very bloated appearance around his belly/gills area. He sits exclusively on the bottom of the tank now, save the occasional trip up to the top for what appears to be air. This morning he appears to be even
more bloated. He even tends to lay on his side and moves his mouth open and shut a lot. He hasn't been fed the last two days (we feed him every other day and with the bloating we skipped a feeding).
<I do suspect constipation is the issue here. Bettas fed just pellets often show similar symptoms, and pellets do often lack fibre. Stop feeding for a couple of days, and thereafter offer just peas, brine shrimp or daphnia.
Epsom salt at 1 to 3 teaspoons per 5 gallons can help relax the muscles, helping the high-fibre foods get their job done!>
He had a thorough cleaning and 75% water change on Saturday (Sunday was when we had the water tested.) I have no idea at all what to do. It seems like he ate something, but other than his plants and gravel, there's nothing else in his tank. Please help.
Caryn
<Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/betfdgfaqs.htm
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Betta fish looks bloated and is sitting at the bottom of the tank 4/16/10
Thanks so much for this information.
<My pleasure.>
So, no food until the constipation stops?
<As stated in my message, no food for a couple of days, and then ONLY the high fibre foods mentioned thereafter, for as long as it takes for the Betta to recover.>
This could go for a week or more?
<Indeed.>
And then Epson salts only when we start on the peas and other fiber-rich foods?
<No, use the Epsom salts immediately and continually until the Betta is better.>
I hate not doing anything at all for him. He seems to be really struggling.
Caryn
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Betta fish looks bloated and is sitting at the bottom of the tank 4/16/10
Ok, I am clear. You are really providing an amazing service. Again, many thanks!
Caryn
<Glad to help. We're all volunteers, so whether it's a "service" as such is debatable, but we do try to help. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Betta fish looks bloated and is sitting at the bottom of the tank, FW NH3 testing 4/16/10
FYI, this may not apply to this case but I don't see ammonia listed.
<A fair point. But let me explain why I don't recommend ammonia test kits to beginners. You can easily get false positives if the water contains chloramine, especially after certain dechlorinator brands are used.
Secondly, some tap water contains ammonia anyway, and beginners often confuse removing ammonia from tap water, e.g., with water conditioner, and removing the ammonia produced by livestock, i.e., what the biological
filter does. Since nitrite isn't normally present in tap water, and shouldn't be produced by water conditioners, it's a "safe" thing to test for. There's normally zero nitrite in tap water, non-zero nitrite in an immature tank, and then zero nitrite again once the tank is cycled. So while you're absolutely correct that testing for ammonia will tell you how
far into cycling the aquarium has gone, to be meaningful you'd need to compare the ammonia level of the aquarium against the ammonia level of conditioned tap water.>
I'd want to know how long the tank has been in place. This is from personal experience with local retail fish stores. They told me my water parameters were good so I could add more fish and nitrate and nitrite were also 0.
Ammonia was good too but only because of the water change.
<Indeed.>
In reality the reason it was 0 nitrite and nitrate was because the tank wasn't cycled.
<Yes.>
To the retail store that sold my fish tank a week earlier they said it was OK because the numbers where "good" when they weren't. That's before I knew to test before the water change.
<Quite right.>
It took weeks and weeks to see nitrite due to the overstocking.
<That's relatively unusual, and typically you should detect nitrite within a week of cycling. I'm not a huge fan of cycling with ammonia and tend to favour the use of fish food or a bit of shrimp, but either way, the whole cycling process should take within 3-6 weeks depending on oxygen concentration [higher the better], pH [best around 7.5-8], hardness [best in hard water], and temperature [best around 25 C]. Anyway, thanks for writing in, always a pleasure to hear from you Greg. Cheers, Neale.>

Betta, carpet surfing, not eating 4/13/10
Dear Crew,
<DG>
Two days ago, I got a Betta for my new(cycled) aquarium. He is the best!
Though I sadly didn't have the best start with him. when I finished acclimating him, I was pouring the water into a container getting ready to catch him with a net. He Jumped right to the floor( luckily it was carpet).
I grabbed him as quick as I could and put him into the aquarium! Ohhhh gosh was it horrible!
Now , after about 30 min., he seems fine. But he was sitting at the bottom breathing hard and if anyone just barely moved he swam fast and crazy.
Yesterday, I tried feeding him bloodworms...spat them back up.
Today I tried feeding him pellets... spat them back up.
What should I do?? He evidently won't eat any food!
Thank you I would really like to see him eat!
<I urge patience... just keep offering foods everyday, make sure the system is indeed cycled, and the water tropical... Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Betta... reading 4/14/10
I came home today to find his fins were all torn (not fin rot torn) and it is not from the plants I made sure the were "Betta safe" per say. Could it be from the erratic swimming when he hits the gravel? I also saw he had scratches! Is there any way to heal those?? Goodness... I think he could be on a suicide mission!!! But I feel like it was all my fault!!
Oh well...
Thank you for the replies,
D.G.
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlvstkind2.htm
the second tray down. BobF>