FAQs on
Betta Diseases/Health 29
Related Articles:
Anabantoids/Gouramis &Relatives,
Betta splendens/Siamese Fighting Fish,
Betta Systems,
Betta Diseases,
Improved (Better?) Products for Bettas!,
Related FAQs:
Betta Disease 1,
Betta Disease 2,
Betta Disease 3,
Betta Disease 4,
Betta Disease 5,
Betta Disease 6,
Betta Disease 7,
Betta Disease 8,
Betta Disease 9 ,
Betta Disease 10 ,
Betta Disease 11 ,
Betta Disease 12 ,
Betta Disease 13 ,
Betta Disease 14 ,
Betta Disease 15 ,
Betta Disease 16 ,
Betta Disease 17 ,
Betta Disease 18,
Betta Disease 19,
Betta Disease 20,
Betta Disease 21,
Betta Health 22,
Betta Health 23,
Betta Health 24,
Betta Health 25,
Betta Health 26,
Betta Health 27,
Betta Health 28,
Betta Health 30,
Betta Health 31,
Betta Disease Causes/Etiologies:
Determining/Diagnosing,
Environmental (By far the largest cat.),
Nutritional,
Viral/Cancer,
Infectious (Bacterial, Fungal) ,
Parasitic:
Ich/White Spot,
Velvet;
Senescence/Old Age,
Cures/Curatives/Treatments,
FAQs on Betta Medicines:
Betta Medicines period,
Antibiotics/Antibacterials,
Anti-Protozoals (Metronidazole,
eSHa...), Copper,
Formalin,
Malachite Green,
Anthelminthics,
Organophosphates,
Salts,
All
Other Betta Med.s,
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Betta Success
Doing what it takes to keep Bettas healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
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Need a more informed opinion on a Betta with distended belly
3/26/14
Hi,
My name is Kathleen and I was recommended your way by a fellow fish
enthusiast on the internet who was as stumped as I was about a
Betta I recently acquired. His back story is
that he is a regular older Cambodian blue veil
tail and has been around for at least what I know to be 2 years.
He was being kept in a horrible little jar in my spa that I started work
at about 8 months ago. His jar was pretty
basic and made to look pretty for clients
instead of for the comfort of the fish. I only go to this job twice
a week and didn't always get a chance to look at him but when I
first saw him he just looked like another
older miserable Betta in a jar with no real
health problems.
I've bred Bettas and showed them in the past with the IBC but had to get
out of the hobby due to space and time requirements. so I
consider myself somewhat knowledgeable with
Betta splendens. This particular fish has got
me stumped. Needless to say I told my work that I was going to bring the
fish home with me because no client wants to come to a spa to
find a dead fish.
When I got him home I put him in a hospital tank and fasted him, as my
original assumption was severe constipation and bloat from heavy
overfeeding.
<Or mis->
Eventually he pooped and was moving better then I saw him move
before. I have been careful not to feed him high protein foods and
instead stick to foods high in fiber. Unfortunately, his appetite has
been slowly disappearing and his stomach is continuing to swell. So then
I thought maybe it was dropsy or some form of internal bacteria or
infection from being kept so long in poor conditions, so with some help
and advice from knowledgeable fish friends I began treating with broad
spectrum antibiotics for external/internal possibilities... I've now
completed a round of broad spectrum antibiotics and he is still going
down hill. No appetite at all, he is now darting and hiding, when he
darts he often goes straight into the
corner and continues to swim as if it would go on forever. Needless to
say I'm almost positive he is trying to hid from whatever the problem is
as it worsens. His stomach is now so stretched on the bottom it is
becoming bloodshot.
<I see this>
I've been staring at his bulge trying to decide whether it is a tumor or
not, the problem is the size of his belly on both sides is nearly
symmetrical and lacks any easily distinguishable lumps of differences. I
will send you a few pictures. I would like to try to save him but I also
don't want him to suffer so I am trying to find my next step. If you
could give me any opinion it would be greatly appreciated.
<As this fish has been isolated for so long, I discount a pathogen
involvement here... and agree w/ your diagnosis.
I would treat this fish's water with Epsom salt... as detailed here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/BettaSaltsF.htm
Bob Fenner>
Thank you so much for your time.
Kathleen
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Betta Issues - bloating (SBD?) red on fins....HELP!
3/3/14
Dear Crew!
<Cori>
First I have followed this site since my first tank (26 G Marineland
Community Freshwater Tank) in 2009. You all have been such a
VALUABLE asset to me and learning about this wonderful world! So
much that I have been known to give out your site to parents wanting to
just buy a tank and drop in the fish for their kids (I run into them all
the time at Wal-Mart, etc.) Now I have graduated to a 70 gallon
Cichlid tank and I LOVE IT.
<Yay!>
After 15 years of NOT having a Betta, I just could not resist saving a
little lad at my local Pet Co about 4 months ago. Knowing better
(the last time I kept my Bettas in an unheated bowl :().
<Oh>
As early as last Tuesday, my Betta (DEMPSY) began having buoyancy
issues; would not be able to get to bottom of tank easily, when idling
in tank, would fall slowing onto his side (like he was wearing a little
floaty on his fins). I noticed that he was not his happy self and
a swollen side or bump emerging. I sought out SBD and other issues
and realized that even though I have been a fish keeper, I have been
overfeeding him BIG TIME (like3-4 pellets 2x a day and then not on
Saturday/Sunday.)
I fasted Dempsey on Wed-Thurs. last week and then fed him 2 pellets on
Friday and then again this morning 2 pellets. He is much "peppier"
(not just hanging out on heater at surface like he was last week) but
still swollen.
I admit, I had been to another site and their advice told me NEVER to
put AQ Salt in a Betta tank ever....so, did 100% water change, changed
my carbon filter and now, this morning, while more active, he has red
areas on his fins and if I didn't know better I would suspect fin rot
but not sure.
I did just add 2tsp of AQ Salt to tank today in case of fin rot.
<Salts can be of use... Aquarium and Epsom in this case... See, search
out Neale's pc. on WWM re>
Here are my stats:
Tank: Aqueon 2.5 gallon
Nitrates 0
<None? How?>
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0
Temp 82
Water Conditioner: Nutrafin Betta +
Food: Omega One Betta Pellets and on Fridays some blood worm
treats
<Be careful re these sewer fly larvae... implicated in disease>
Water Changes x 1 a week 80%-90%
<Half would be better>
I have attached a picture of my poor boy Dempsey taken this morning as
he came to greet me.
HELP!
Cori
<The above; and time going by. Bob Fenner>
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RE: Betta Issues - bloating (SBD?) red on
fins....HELP! 3/3/14
Bob!
<C>
Thank you for reply. So daily water changes x 50% with 1tsp AQ Salt
for 7-10? I did read Neal's info on salts.
<Only fifty/half water changes a week...>
No Nitrates because I changed his (I changed his water this AM).
So red on fins is fin rot? And bloating because of blood worms?
Ugghh...
<Just some sort of malaise... will pass in time w/ good care (water quality,
nutrition)>
As always, thank you all!!!!!
Corianne
<Ah, welcome. BobF> |
My sick Betta
1/18/14
Hi, I'm quite new to this forum so I'm sorry if these questions have
already been answered.
<Likely so, Antonio! The reality is that most Betta problems are
environmental, and the same shortcomings with their environment come up
again and again -- tank too small, no heater and no filter to name the
three commonest problems.>
I've had Samson, my Betta, for just under a year now but in the last 2
weeks he's started to act very oddly. Initially he was lazier than
usual, sleeping under his log most of the day.
<How warm is his water? Being cold blooded animals Bettas are very
sensitive to chills. They need water temperature of 25 C/77 F, hence the
need for a heater, but in some parts of the world rooms might be this
warm for some of the year (perhaps all year around in the tropics). But
once water temperature drops below about 24 C/75 F, Bettas get sickly
very quickly. So just to recap, heating is mandatory, and before
diagnosing your Betta's problems, we need to know the temperature of the
water.>
About 10 days ago he got stuck in the edge of his log, usually I had it
buried under his gravel, it must have just raised slightly. When I
noticed that he was stuck my boyfriend had to try and wiggle him out as
he was quite badly stuck. Obviously he stress striped badly and we
removed the log. Since then he hasn't eaten much at all, I think he's
maybe had 3 pellets of food, he hasn't eaten anything in the last 3 days
despite me offering him pellets and frozen blood worms.
<Again, lack of appetite is a common symptom of stress, including
chilling.>
His colour has dulled a lot and he doesn't react to us at all anymore,
he used to flare at us if we went near his tank but didn't feed him.
<Yet again, lack of colour and interest in his surroundings are both
symptoms of stress.>
I tested his water and his ph levels were slightly raised so I've
managed to get them back down to a normal level. I haven't tested
ammonia, nitrites or nitrates though.
<We do need these. How is the tank filtered?>
I added StressZyme+,
<Not really a treatment; pretty useless in most situations.>
BettaFix
<If not quite useless, then certainly close. At best helps prevent
wounds becoming infected, but these tea-tree oil medications aren't
worth the money as treatments for real-and-present diseases.>
and aquarium salt
<While salt has some value in treating Whitespot and Velvet, it's not a
valid starting point for treating an unknown disease. Because it's cheap
it's widely bought by less experienced hobbyists, but really, unless you
know the specific situations where salt helps, it's a waste of money. Do
remember Bettas don't live in the sea, so adding salt isn't in any way,
shape or form helping them out.>
but nothing seems to help him.
<See above! These last three "treatments" are irrelevant here, like
treating a broken leg with lip balm.>
Is he just old and on the way out or is there something I can do to help
him?
<Bettas can and often do live 3 years or more in captivity, so it's
unlikely he's life expired, assuming of course you bought this Betta as
a youngster a few months old at a pet store. But without data on his
environment, I can't say for sure what the problem is. Environmental
stress is a good starting point just because the vast majority of sick
Bettas get sick because of their environment! Read the above, and write
back with any details on your system, so we can offer more focused
suggestions. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: My sick Betta 1/18/14
Hi Neale,
<Antonia,>
He is in a 12 litre tank
<A little small, but not fatally so.>
with a heater and a filter.
<Good.>
His tank is steady at 80f.
<Fine.>
I noticed last week that his old heater was broken, but I'm not sure how
long for so his tank may have been unheated for a few days before I
noticed.
<Indeed. Usually, if a fish is stressed by cold, returning it gently
back to normal temperatures (i.e., by letting the new heater warm the
tank up slowly) should sort things out. But of course if the fish has
become sick, treatment may be necessary.>
His tank is filtered by a moving filter with filter blocks and carbon
sheets.
<Now, do be careful with carbon -- it removes some medications! So it's
best not to use carbon while medicating.>
Thanks,
Antonia
<If the fish is merely listless or idle, you might try a series of water
changes to freshen things up in the tank, increasing any aeration in the
tank, and above all ensuring that there's zero nitrite in the aquarium
(nitrite being a good indication of water quality problems). Starving
the fish for a few days, then offering something novel and tasty (a few
live daphnia say, or a tiny sliver of seafood) might elicit a reaction.
Unless the fish actually shows definite signs of disease, it's usually
best not to medicate randomly, but of course be aware of things like
Finrot, Fungus and Columnaris, and act accordingly. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: My sick Betta 1/18/14
Thanks for that Neale, I'll be getting his water tested tomorrow for
nitrites.
<Cool.>
Would an aeration stone be a good idea for the tank also?
<It's worth having an air pump and air stone to hand generally, as
adding air can help when fish are unhappy for some reason. I'd always
favour an air-powered sponge filter for a Betta aquarium over any other
type of filter because the gentle current and extra aeration is useful.
That said, Bettas are air-breathers, so they're less sensitive to low
oxygen levels than most other fish. Put another way, I wouldn't rush out
and buy an air pump, but if I had one kicking around, I'd add it to the
system to see if it helped perk the Betta up.>
Just to make sure that he's got enough? At the minute he has a mirror,
sparingly during the day, a Betta leaf bed and a fake plant.
<I would remove the mirror. Contrary to popular myth, Bettas don't want
to fight other males or even see them, and they're a lot happier left
alone most of the time. No harm in using the mirror now and again, but
don't leave it in/outside the tank.>
He hasn't eaten in about 2-3 days and still just follows his food around
his tank one before just ignoring it, he's not even attempting to eat
it, just swimming directly under it.
<Would stop feeding. Fish don't need to eat much, and a Betta can go
without food for two weeks or more without any harm at all. Only offer
food if the Betta is actively foraging, maybe after 2-3 days of
starvation.
Remove any uneaten food if he ignores it, and then wait another day
before offering more.>
So far he just seems to have stress more than anything else, he did have
some white spots but they vanished after a water change and a small dose
of BettaFix.
<Indeed. Bettafix isn't a medication against Whitespot, so there's
unlikely to be a connection beyond perhaps helping any skin damage to
heal quickly.
Salt/heat is a better treatment for Whitespot, while antibiotics would
be safer if dealing with bacterial infections such as Finrot.>
Sorry about all the questions, up until this he was a boisterous little
guy, it's just been a shock to see how quickly he's deteriorated. The
lack of food is worrying me most.
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
Re: My sick Betta 1/19/14
Hi Neale,
I had Samson's water tested and all of his levels are right in the
perfect
range.
<Antonio, unfortunately this doesn't tell me anything! The actual
numbers are the only thing that's useful to me. So, to summarise: Bettas
need 0 nitrite and 0 ammonia. As with all fish, the lower the nitrate,
the better, ideally 20 mg/l or less, but certainly below 50 mg/l. The pH
needs to be stable; doesn't really matter what the value is between pH 6
to 8, provided it is more or less stable within that range. Water
hardness should also be relatively stable, somewhere between 2 and 20
degrees dH, and not bouncing around with each water change. For
practical reasons, middling hardness is often easiest to work with,
around 10 degrees dH. Compare this ideals against the values you were
given. Nitrite, ammonia and nitrate levels above the safe levels, or
variations in water chemistry, are common causes of environmental
stress. Cheers, Neale.>
New Tank & Betta' hlth. 1/5/14
Hey guys, it's been awhile.
<Dave>
I gave up my 450 gallons worth of saltwater when I had kids a few years
back. Santa brought them a 29G tank for freshwater use.
I have gravel in my 29G freshwater tank, a few castles to hide in, etc.
It's a Fluval tank kit, so comes with an appropriate sized heater and
filter. I used the Nutrafin Aqua plus conditioner and tested
ammonia and nitrites on the morning of the 4th operating day.
Ammonia registered between 0 and 25ppm. Nitrites registered 0.
My water temp was sitting at 74F.
<Any Nitrate?>
I examined the Bettas in our local pet store, and from the 15 or so, I
selected what appeared to be the top four healthiest and most active.
My girls wanted the bright red one. I floated his bag at home for
about 20mins or so, dumped a little water out into a bucket and added a
little tank water. I did this three or four times over the course
of most of an hour, and finally let the Betta swim out of the bag.
He was quite active and curious that first night with the lights off.
24hrs later, we could see
him hiding in one of the castles, he'd come out and swim around, and
then hide again... still bright red, but with no interest in food (Betta
bites).
This went on for a couple of days, until this past Wednesday we didn't
see him for 2 days. By Friday, we found him hovering at the
surface by the heater... not very active. I did some more research
on betas, and although what I originally found mentioned 74 - 82F is an
appropriate temperature... I soon discovered a lot of people saying 78F
is better, so I raised my temperature. I'd see the Betta still at
the bottom of the tank for most of a day, and then floating at the
top... but hardly active. He still wouldn't take food, and I even
tried the shelled pea cut up for him, thinking maybe he was having some
swim bladder issues... but he let those little bits fall to the tank
bottom. I'd say that after the second day I got him, he started
changing from his brilliant red to more silvery/yellow (if that makes
sense), and I began to wonder if it was simply that he was bloated, thus
the red scales were stretched out a little more?
<Mmm; no>
His fins look fine... spread out and feathery. Tonight, he's
floating at the surface... the filter current has him floating circuits
around the tank and it does look like he has difficulty keeping upright.
I've had enough fish over the years to say, he doesn't look good and I'm
thinking he's a goner. I'm curious if it's something I've
done? Or did I get an unhealthy fish?
<Could be a bit of both, either. Is this system cycled?>
I've been doing 20% water changes every 3 days since I've had the tank
up and running. I used one full dose of Seachem Prime the morning
I bought the Betta, and add the appropriate amounts for every water
change.
<Won't fix the system if not cycled>
I've tested water every 3 days and haven't seen a reading at or above
25ppm for ammonia, and nothing registering for nitrites. Water
temp was 74F for the 8 days I had him, and the past 2 days it's been at
79F.
I've owned clownfish, damsels, corals, tangs, Jawfish, etc... with
success (over 5yrs+ and then sold them when we moved)... for a 'hardy'
fish, this little guy seems rather fragile.
Questions:
Paying close attention to my water parameters (ammonia and nitrite) and
using Seachem Prime, should I have waited a month for a full normal tank
cycle without a Betta?
<Yes; or other means. Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
Is it likely that my lower 74F temperature caused my Betta to become
ill?
<Not of and by itself; not likely>
I'm curious if perhaps my water PH could be an issue? Took a water
sample to the petstore when I bought the Betta, and they said I was
'good'... not sure how overly confident I am with them, and I never ever
seemed to have PH issues with my saltwater tanks, so perhaps I
wrongfully assumed I'd naturally be ok without testing this myself?
<Again; not likely so>
Does it sound like I just ended up with a fish that was likely sick
prior to purchase?
<This is quite common... Better to raise the temperature a bit... the
low 80's F and feed sparingly for now>
Dave
<Bob Fenner>
Unusual Betta Eye Problem 12/16/13
Hi there,
<Becca>
One of my female Bettas has been having some unusual eye problems that I was
hoping y'all could help me with. She's pretty young (Maybe 6 mo),
kept in a filtered 5g heated to 80*F with another female Betta (The
tank is divided), and a lucky bamboo plant (Only roots submerged), and is
fed Omega One Betta flakes & frozen bloodworms as treats.
<Mmm, I'll mention that these Chironomid (sewer) fly larvae have fallen out
of favor... implicated in disease issues>
Late November white spots suddenly appeared on her eyes, they weren't
cloudy or fuzzy but instead looked like some sort of layer or object had
been placed on top of the cornea. The white spots would disappear and
reappear a few times over the course of the day, so for example in the
morning she had a spot on her left eye then by midday both might be clear,
and by nightfall both would have a spot again. I thought it might have been
parasites,
<Mmm; not likely; no. Something "environmental" at play here>
since the spots "moved" like that, so I treated with CopperSafe (1tsp/4g)
and AQ salt (~1tsp/g), as well as extra water changes. Her tankmate showed
no symptoms, but I thought it was a good idea to treat the entire tank.
It didn't seem to have much of an effect after nearly a week, and on 12/1
her eye suddenly looked like it had ulcerated! There was what looked like
pus or mucus coming out from under the cornea, as if it had been punctured
(See photos #1 & 2). I isolated her in a heated (~85*F) 1/2g container for a
week and stopped treating with CopperSafe and instead after research
used a combination of Triple Sulfa and Erythromycin. The eye was a little
bit swollen so I added a pinch of Epsom salt, but it looked nothing like the
pop-eye pictures I found. I wrote a thread on a Betta forum with some more
details, here's the link:
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=312346
After a few days of treatment her eye cleared up, and after a full week in
solitary I added her back to the 5g.
All was well until tonight (12/15), when I saw that she once again had
something on her eye! It's directly on her cornea (Picture #3, sorry for the
quality). I have another Betta currently in the tub I used to isolate her so
she has to stay in the 5g, but I don't want to treat the tank if it's going
to affect the other Betta negatively. The other girl has shown no symptoms
of anything at all, and besides the eye problems the effected one looks and
acts completely normal. I had broken down the tank and completely cleaned
everything the day she was placed back into it (thanks to what turned out to
be a filter malfunction), so there wasn't any old water or gravel to harbor
whatever this is. The only thing currently on her side of the tank is the
heater, plastic divider and a few sprigs of silk plants, and I never use a
net when I transport her, so I don't know what she could have bumped her eye
on if it's an injury.
<This IS the most likely cause here; and no treatment will help... Only
steady, optimized conditions and time going by>
Any help you can offer would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
Rana
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
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Sick Betta please
help..., no info. of use 12/9/13
Hello,
<Lis>
I hope you can help Raisin! These are pictures of my roommates sick Betta.
We feel very bad for him. He seems very sick with a twisted body and on his
side but then he will swim around and he has a large appetite. My friend
normally feeds her fish very little.
<... of what?>
She recently fed him a pea incase he has swim bladder. I took pictures
from all angles hoping someone can help. I don't see his symptoms in any
other website. It sort of looks like his scales are turning black and
looking not so smooth. His head is turning black too. His eyes seem pretty
big and black (bigger than my Betta's eyes)
Thank u,
Lisa
<Uhh, where's the data? Water quality tests? Maintenance... I don't see a
filter or heater in the accompanying pix...
Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner> |
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Question about my fish 12/8/13
Hi My name is Linda. I bought a beautiful Betta
, Fringe because his fins are marvelous and look like fringe. I am a
therapist and he was with me in my office. As winter approached I was
worried I wouldn't be able to get in everyday to feed him, so I bought
him home and have him in the same environment. He is not near a
door or breezy area.
<But in an environment that is heated and filtered I hope>
When I bought him he was in a small square tank. I started reading about
Betta's and went out and bought him a 2.5 gallon tank with a heater and
a filter that was for Betta tanks.
<Ah, good>
I also added live plants. The algae was taking over so I bought an
Asian algae eater.
<Do remove this... See the Net re Gyrinocheilus... is this the fish?
Search, read on WWM re>
I'm sorry if the name is wrong, but he died within 2-3 days. When I
bought him home I noticed snails in his tank. I know <sic> their supposed to
be ok for Betta's but they kind of creep me out. More important and
worrisome is that he is <sic> loosing his beautiful brilliant blue color on
his body. His fins are still bright orange and there is no sign of fin
rot or ick or scale loss or anything that most people are writing about.
He was a very inquisitive little guy and would sit and( I know this
sounds nuts) but he would watch me all day. He would make millions of
bubble nests and now he just seems ,dare I say, sad. I have read
that fish don't become attached but he would dance when I would come in
every morning. He didn't seem to care for the algae eater when it was in
the tank. Could he be stressed over sharing his home with snails ?
<Perhaps some>
I have cleaned the tank, removed the gravel and snails,
left one small plant which I almost scrubbed to death. What should I do
next. I love this little guy. HELP !
Linda
<Do you have means of testing your water quality? Perhaps a near fish
store that can do this for you? This is your next step. Bob Fenner>
Betta 11/17/13
I have had this Betta for almost a year and for the last few months he
has been getting these light shiny patches on his fins.
<Mmm; think I see this>
I tried an anti fungal medication but there wasn't much change. Always
in a large tank but only recently have moved to a filtered (carbon
cycling) tank after many arguments with my local pet store. I decided to
go with all the things I have read online and not what the store
recommended. Temp sits around 25 degrees. Although I have improved his
tank environment I have seen no improvement and am unsure of the best
course of action. He seems happy enough but something is definitely not
right. Any idea what this is?
Thanking you
Tracey.
<I don't consider that this is anything pathogenic. I would not
treat/add medicines. You do have a heater I take it. Bob Fenner>
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Betta thrashing about and wont eat!
10/29/13
Hi!
My Betta has done this before but snapped out of it but this time he
can't seem to?
<What? Where is the data, useful information? System, water
quality, test results... Search, read on WWM re Betta health
and write back w/. Bob Fenner>
He can't seem to right himself and will not eat. He will not eat but
seems happy. He thrashes around the tank and gets really exhausted so I
put him in a small container in shallow water. What is wrong with him
and what can I do??
Thank you!!
Ione Ackerman
Prolapsed anus 9/28/13
So a day ago i bought 5 female crowntails Bettas and
two of them have prolapsed anus...i presume its from over feeding as i
saw all of them had bulging bellies..the petshop feeds them bloodworms.
<See my comments all over WWM re these sewer worm larvae... S/b limited,
used only frozen/defrosted, not allowed to touch your skin... or better,
excluded altogether>
Will it heal on its own? They're both healthy and swimming normally, what
can i do?
<Search, read Neale's work on Epsom Salt use. Do you know how to use
WWM?
Bob Fenner>
Betta with white patch 9/4/13
RMF's go
Hi guys,
<Don't slight the tender gender here Michael>
I was wondering if you could help with diagnosis and possible treatment.
I recently received a half-moon Betta delivered through 2 day shipping.
He arrived in fine condition and has resided in a 5 gallon, heated,
planted
<Filtered?>
aquarium for the past 8 days or so. The tank parameters are 0
ammonia, 0 nitrite, and I imagine
<I would test>
nitrates are low as he is the only resident and I do a 1 gallon water
change weekly.
<... need purposeful biological filtration>
Ph. is 8.0 (liquid rock out of the tap) but my other Bettas appear to be
fine because it is stable.
<Yes; a very good point>
Temp is kept at 78 degrees. I sometimes add Indian Almond Leaves
but am currently out of stock. A white patch appeared near his eye
about three days ago. I couldn't tell if it was fungus, bacteria,
or injury (?);
<Perhaps a bit of both/all>
as a result I added two teaspoons of aquarium salt to water during a water
change and raised the tank temp to 80 degrees.
<Good; sensible>
Over the past three days the wound has not changed much in appearance.
His behavior has not changed at all, is very active, and is a voracious
eater of new life spectrum Betta pellets and frozen brine. I was
wondering if you could help identify and if so, could you recommend
treatment, medications, etc, or just stay the course. Photos
attached
Mike
<Well; in your excellent pix... this does look like some sort of
(bacterial) infection following a physical trauma (whacked w/ a net,
fell on the floor... sort)... But how to treat? I might well jump ahead
(in suppositions; sans sampling, culture...), and treat as if this were
actually a.... Mycobacterium infection? Maybe the safe, sound combo. of
Maracyn I, II... Perhaps a Furan compound instead. Please look about re
Myco.... on WWM. If/When in doubt though, I'd do nothing medicine wise
here. Bob Fenner>
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Betta with white patch Neale's go
9/4/13
Hi guys,
I was wondering if you could help with diagnosis and possible treatment.
I recently received a half-moon Betta delivered through 2 day shipping.
He arrived in fine condition and has resided in a 5 gallon, heated,
planted aquarium for the past 8 days or so. The tank parameters
are 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and I imagine nitrates are low as he is the
only resident and I do a 1 gallon water change weekly. Ph. is 8.0
(liquid rock out of the tap) but my other Bettas appear to be fine
because it is stable. Temp is kept at 78 degrees. I
sometimes add Indian Almond Leaves but am currently out of stock.
A white patch appeared near his eye about three days ago. I
couldn't tell if it was fungus, bacteria, or injury (?); as a result I
added two teaspoons of aquarium salt to water during a water change and
raised the tank temp to 80 degrees. Over the past three days the
wound has not changed much in appearance. His behavior has not
changed at all, is very active, and is a voracious eater of new life
spectrum Betta pellets and frozen brine. I was wondering if you
could help identify and if so, could you recommend treatment,
medications, etc, or just stay the course.
Photos attached
<Does look like some sort of bacterial ulcer, incipient rather than
advanced; would treat as per Finrot, using a reliable medication (not
salt or Melafix). Ideally, an antibiotic combination like a Maracyn 1
and Maracyn 2 or else some equivalent product (Kanamycin, eSHa 2000,
etc.).
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Betta with white patch 9/8/13
I think there is significant improvement since adding Maracyn 1 & 2.
<Excellent.>
The attached photos demonstrate the difference from pre-treatment to day
3 antibiotics.
<I agree; looks like the skin has healed over cleanly.>
I plan on continuing with the recommended 5 day course of treatment.
<Do so, almost always the best plan. Do also check water quality, just
in case the antibiotic affects the filter bacteria. Doesn't always
(different sort of bacteria, I guess) but sometimes does.>
Following that I will put carbon back in the filter, perform water
change, and add bio-media from an established tank in case the
antibiotics have harmed the beneficial bacteria in the tank. Does
that sound like a plan?
<Apart from the carbon, yes. Not a huge fan of carbon: doesn't really do
much of use in freshwater tanks. Extra biological media almost always a
better plan, and after a week, carbon is so covered with bacteria and
organic much that it may as well be biological media anyway! Unless you
replace carbon weekly, it doesn't really do anything.>
[photo.jpg]
Day 3
[Image 1.jpg]
Pre-treatment
<Good luck. Cheers, Neale.>
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Re: Betta with white patch 9/12/13
All better…Thank you for all your help!!
<Ah, a great result. All the best, Neale.>
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Re: Betta with white patch…Now fin rot????
9/17/13
Hi Crew,
<Mike>
So I've attached a pick of my happy boy following Maracyn 1 and 2 treatment
from the bacterial infection I wrote to you about last week. This
completely cured his bacterial infection (I think). I come home from work
today and his entire tail is missing.
<?!!>
He's eating and acting fine. I've never seen him nip at his tail. In 24
hours it is nearly gone (photo attached). All tank parameters remain the
same….0 ammonia, nitrite, nitrate…ph 7.8 but stable. Resides in a five
gallon planted aquarium filtered and heated to 80. Also, I did a 75% water
change following last treatment with antibiotics and another 5% since that
time. During treatment with Maracyn 1 and 2 a whitish film developed inside
the tank which was filtered out with the water changes (just wondering if
this was a fungus?).
What to do? Does this look like fin rot, self inflicted, other?
<Very strange... no other livestock t/here that might have chewed this tail
like this I take it... and nothing to get hung on, a filter, pump to get
sucked up against?>
Also, if antibiotics are merited yet again, would we treat with the same
Maracyn combo or a different course of treatment. I've always had veil
tails prior to this boy and have had no problems; are these selectively bred
HM's more sensitive or prone to illness? The conditions in my tanks are
nearly identical… Thanks for any help
Mike
<I would not treat further. Am going to send your msg., pix to Neale for his
independent input. Bob Fenner>
Re: Betta with white patch…Now fin rot???? 9/17/13
Thanks for your prompt reply, Bob. He is the lone resident of the aquarium.
There is a small power filter with extremely low-flow that he could get
stuck against.
<Mmm<
However, I inspected the filter and tank for "pieces" of fin just in case
that could be the issue....could find no bright yellow or blue pieces of fin
:). I'm thinking of switching to a sponge filter just in case. I'll await
Neale's reply. Thanks again!
<Cheers, BobF> |
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Re: Betta with white patch…Now fin rot????
/Neale
9/18/13
Hi Crew,
<Mike,>
So I've attached a pick of my happy boy following Maracyn 1 and 2 treatment
from the bacterial infection I wrote to you about last week. This
completely cured his bacterial infection (I think).
<Cool.>
I come home from work today and his entire tail is missing. He's eating and
acting fine. I've never seen him nip at his tail. In 24 hours it is nearly
gone (photo attached).
<Indeed, but looks like good, clean fin removal rather than Finrot; in other
words, physical damage. Under good conditions, should heal well.>
All tank parameters remain the same….0 ammonia, nitrite, nitrate…ph 7.8 but
stable. Resides in a five gallon planted aquarium filtered and heated to
80. Also, I did a 75% water change following last treatment with
antibiotics and another 5% since that time. During treatment with Maracyn 1
and 2 a whitish film developed inside the tank which was filtered out with
the water changes (just wondering if this was a fungus?).
<Conceivably, but more likely some sort of bacteria or alga.>
What to do? Does this look like fin rot, self inflicted, other?
<Filter damage possibly? Do you use an electric pump filter of some sort?
Would replace with something air-powered like a sponge or undergravel.
Assuming no tankmates.>
Also, if antibiotics are merited yet again, would we treat with the same
Maracyn combo or a different course of treatment. I've always had veil
tails prior to this boy and have had no problems; are these selectively bred
HM's more sensitive or prone to illness?
<Likely so; as fancy Bettas are bred further away from the wild type, the
range of genes per Betta variety gets smaller; in addition, the less
breeders focus on hardiness, the less likely it is that strong genes are
favoured and weak genes allowed to stay in the gene pool. A common problem
with domesticated animals, especially pets.>
The conditions in my tanks are nearly identical… Thanks for any help
Mike
<Cheers, Neale.> |
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Re: Betta with white patch…Now fin rot????
9/19/13
Hi Bob, Neale,
Hate to keep pestering you with this, but it appears that the fin has
gotten worse (or maybe I'm a nervous parent). I am in no rush to
medicate and won't unless we think it is the appropriate course of
action. The pics below I believe show a progression since
yesterday this time. The filter is replaced so I don't think he's
gotten caught on anything again. No tank mates, etc.
Thoughts? If this has changed your opinion, he's recently been
through 5 days Maracyn 1 and 2 for bacterial infection.
As always, your help is greatly appreciated.
Mike
<If the fins are substantially worse, I'd use a reliable anti-Finrot
medication. Do remember to remove carbon (if used) and do also ensure
water quality is good. Here in the UK I recommend eSHa 2000 as being
inexpensive and tolerated well by all the fish I've used it with;
elsewhere you may need to make your own decisions but I would recommend
against tea-tree oil things like Melafix that are, arguably,
preventatives rather than cures with a hit-and-miss track record when it
comes to curing moderate to severe cases. Seachem products seem to be
generally well regarded in the US, KanaPlex in particular being a good
broad-spectrum antibacterial medication. Cheers, Neale.>
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Re: Betta with white patch…Now fin rot????
9/19/13
Thanks Neale. I'll take another day and reassess, and if so try a round of
Kanaplex.
Thanks again
Michael
<Most welcome, Neale.>
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Betta Success
Doing what it takes to keep Bettas healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
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