FAQs on Goldfish Medications: The
Non-"Fixes": Melafix, Pimafix
FAQs on Goldfish
Medicines: Antibiotics
(e.g. Maracyn, Tetracycline), Organophosphates (e.g. Fluke Tabs, Dylox),
Anthelminthics (de-wormers),
Salts, eSHa, Copper
Compounds, Formalin, Malachite Green, Metronidazole (Flagyl), Sulfa Drugs, All Others...Related Articles: Goldfish
Systems, Goldfish Disease, Goldfish, Goldfish Varieties, Koi/Pond
Fish Disease, Livestock
Treatment System, Bloaty, Floaty Goldfish,
Gas Bubble
Disease/Emphysematosis, Pond Parasite Control
with DTHP, Hole in the Side
Disease/Furunculosis,
Related Goldfish Disease FAQs:
Environmental 1, Environmental 2, Environmental 3, Environmental 4, & Goldfish Disease 2, Goldfish Disease 3, Goldfish Disease 4, Goldfish Disease
6, Goldfish Disease 7, Goldfish Disease 8, Goldfish Disease 9, Goldfish Disease
10, Goldfish Disease
11, Goldfish Disease 12, Goldfish Disease 13, Goldfish Disease 14, Goldfish Disease 15, Goldfish Disease 16,
Goldfish Disease
17, Goldfish Disease 18,
Goldfish Disease 19, Goldfish Disease 20, Goldfish Disease 21, Goldfish
Disease 22, Goldfish Health 23, Goldfish Disease 24,
Goldfish Health 25, Goldfish Disease 26, Goldfish Disease 27, Goldfish Disease 28, Goldfish Disease 29, Goldfish Disease 30,
Goldfish Disease
31, Goldfish Disease 33,
Goldfish Disease 34, Goldfish Disease 35, Goldfish Health 36, Goldfish Health 37, Goldfish Health 38, Goldfish Disease 39,
Goldfish Disease 40, Goldfish Disease 41, Goldfish Disease 42, Goldfish Disease 43, Goldfish Disease 44, Goldfish Disease 45, Goldfish Disease 46, Goldfish Disease 47, Goldfish Disease 48, Goldfish Disease 49, Goldfish Disease 50, Goldfish Disease 51, & Koi/Pondfish
Disease ,
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Placebos at best, toxic, denitrifier-killers and
even worse
Forget these leaf extracts... Determine the root
cause/s of your goldfish ills and remedy THEM
Goldfish Disease by "Types",
Causes:
Environmental 1, Environmental 2, Environmental 3, Environmental 4, Environmental 5, Environmental ,
(Absolutely the Biggest Category)
Floaty Bloaty Goldfish
Nutritional (Second Largest)
Genetic/Developmental
Eye Troubles
Lumps/Bumps/Growths (including
idiopathic tumors)
Behavioral/Social
Viral and Bacterial, Fungal
Infectious
Parasitic: (Ich, Protozoans,
Flukes, Worms, Crustacean/ Anchorworms/Lernaeids, ) Fish Lice (Argulus),
Goldfish Swim Bladder
Problems
Anomalous (Misc., Injuries, etc.)
|
|
New Print and
eBook on Amazon
Goldfish Success
What it takes to keep goldfish healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
|
GF Qs 08/02/09
> Bob, Neale- As I'm going through the GF disease FAQs
("summarizing" and sorting), I have few questions... 1) a lot
of the early crew members frequently recommend Melafix. Does this work
for goldfish?
<Marginally in some types of circumstances (my best attempt at a
fair assessment)... Really, more a hindrance, obstacle to folks further
investigating, seeking real cures in many more percentage cases>
> 2) There seems to be some disagreement over the use of
"freshwater" salt to ease water quality issues and stress on
the fish. What is the > logic behind the use of this salt? ...and do
you two recommend it?
<The change in osmotic pressure is more easily tolerated than some
ext. complaints... and the placebo effect, granted... getting folks to
not do more harm>
3) Is it not a "myth" that goldfish will only grow as large
as their home will provide?
<Sigh... absolutely>
...do they just grow very slowly in small containers?
<They stunt, suffer and die prematurely... Thank you for asking.
BobF, who would include this corr... so he's going to.>
> Thanks,
> Sara M.
Re: GF Qs 08/02/09
> Hi Sara,
> I tend to agree with Bob the Melafix is of little to no value.
It's an antiseptic at best, and consequently best considered a
preventative, to keep minor wounds from becoming infected. I'd
never recommend it as something to use once fish have obvious signs of
Finrot or fungus.
> Sodium chloride is known to reduce the toxicity of nitrite and
nitrate. As such, it can be used at low doses (1-3 grammes/litre) to
help fish tolerate periods of poor water quality. Sodium chloride can
also be used to treat a variety of external parasites including
Whitespot (Ick) and leeches. On the other hand, what sodium chloride
won't do is raise pH or increase hardness. It's therefore of no
value in aquaria where the main problems are to do with water
chemistry.
> Goldfish have a very high tolerance for brackish water, so the use
of salt at low doses on a continual basis won't do any harm, but on
the flip side, it won't do any good either, if other issues,
particularly water chemistry, aren't fixed first.
> Carp, including goldfish, are known to stunt in the wild as well
as in captivity. I disagree with Bob with regard to the potential for
harm; there's no clear evidence that stunting causes any problems
at all.
> However, having said that, keeping fish in tanks that are too
small for them -- and thereby causing stunting -- also tends to imply
the fish is being exposed to poor water quality, unstable water
chemistry, and low levels of dissolved oxygen. All of these things are
liable to reduce overall health and disease resistance. So while
stunting _per se_ probably doesn't cause problems, the conditions
that promote stunting almost certainly do.
> It's worth mentioning fish grow their entire lives, as you
probably know, and once a stunted fish is removed to bigger quarters,
it will begin growing again. Of course, the rate of growth decreases
with age, so a fish that was stunted when young will not get
dramatically larger if moved into a big tank as an adult.
> Cheers, Neale
Goldfish-Resistant Fin Rot? Mela-not-fix... getting to...
identifying an treating root cause/s, not symptoms
7/13/08 Hi Crew, <Jennifer> Thank you in advance for
your help! I have a beautiful 4-inch (body + tail) Shubunkin
goldfish living in a 27-gal tank with a 40-gal Power filter and a
large air stone. He is the only fish in the tank and it has been
established for over 6 months. About 6 weeks ago, I noticed the
beginning stages of what I think is fin rot on both caudal tail
tips. I hate to admit it, but I'm afraid we neglected his
tank cleaning a bit and I suspect the slight ammonia increase
(0.25ppm when I first tested it after noticing the frayed fins)
made his susceptible to infection. <Mmm, maybe... there should
not be any ammonia present. Perhaps some other/redundant
biological filtration> First, I tried vacuuming gravel along
with 50% water change and adding Amquel+ in the recommended dose
to detoxify any remaining ammonia. After about a week, the rot
continued to get worse, so I tried what I thought would be a
"gentle" approach and added Melafix <...> for the
recommended 7-day treatment. This did absolutely nothing <What
it does> and the rot only got worse because it became red
along the frayed edges. I performed a 25% water change and
replaced the activated carbon to get rid of the medication.
<Not really a medication> I did nothing except monitor
water quality for a few days. Ammonia fluctuated between 0 and
0.25ppm, Nitrite was always 0, and Nitrates stayed around
10-15ppm. As I said, this was a well-established tank, but the
fact that I could not get the ammonia to stabilize at 0 made me
think the Melafix destroyed by biological filtration. <Does
this as well> It is important to mention that I was having to
add a standard dose of Amquel+ every evening to keep the water
quality at the levels I just mentioned. At this point, a
fish-hobbyist friend told me to try Maracyn since the redness had
not gone away and the rot was progressing. I followed the 5-day
treatment and the redness was reduced, but not eliminated and the
fins did not start growing back. <The environment...>
Again, I did a 25% water change, replaced the carbon for a day,
then started a treatment of Maracyn-Two. I thought maybe the
bacterial infection was gram- rather than gram+. <Rather rare
actually> After this 5-day treatment, there was no improvement
at all, and all the while I'm having to still add Amquel+
every other day to keep the aforementioned levels. (I added a
dose of Cycle <This Hagen product rarely works...> at the
start of the Maracyn-Two treatment, which is I think why I was
able to get away with less frequent doses of Amquel+.) At this
point, I was really alarmed at the fin rot progression and
resistance, so I went back to the only treatment that showed any
signs of improvement, which was the Maracyn. On the advice of my
friend, I treated with Maracyn concurrently with Maroxy, as he
started to wonder if this was a fungal fin rot. <Not per
accidens... not the immediate cause... the environment> I am
currently on my third day of treatment with these medications,
but I haven't seen much, if any, improvement. I will say it
doesn't seem to be getting any worse at the moment. Today was
the first day that the Nitrite level went above 0 to 0.25ppm, and
the ammonia was zero. Perhaps this is my tank starting to
re-cycle? <Seems so> I am just so upset that I've tried
everything I can think of to help my fish, but nothing is really
working. The only comfort I have is that he is behaving 100%
normally and eating with a very healthy appetite. I am also
purposely trying to feed less and vacuum his tank every other
day. I test water quality 2 times per day. Whew! That was an
earful, I know, but I wanted to make sure you had all the info.
Do you think there is anything else going on with my poor fish
instead of/in addition to the bacterial fin rot? <I don't
think this is the actual problem here... "It" is the
env.> The frays are now about 1/2 an inch long on his tail.
What should I do once the Maracyn/Maroxy combo treatment is over
in two more days? I have a bad feeling the infection will still
be active. Is this at all normal? I'm desperate to stop the
rot from reaching his body, because I've read that will at
the very least mean his fin won't grow back and at the worst
will kill him! Thank you, again, for you patience with a worried
Mom. Sincerely, Jennifer <Again; some simple additional
filtration that incorporates a mechanical media... that will act
along with the hang on power filter... Perhaps a sponge filter,
an inside power filter, some live plant material... even a simple
small undergravel filter plate... The nitrogenous trouble was the
real root cause here... All the treatments were attempts at
treating symptoms, not the cause. Fix the environment, fix this
fish. Bob Fenner>
Re: Goldfish-Resistant Fin Rot? - 07/13/08 Thank
you for your advice, Bob. Honestly, I searched your site for many
hours looking for specific info on resistant fin rot, <Mmm,
likely because... there really isn't such a thing...
Really> and although I didn't find much (perhaps I
wasn't looking in the right spots), I did read a lot of info
on goldfish systems and environment, which was very helpful.
Tonight is the last dose of the Maracyn/Maroxy combo. I was
thinking of vacuuming gravel and doing a 50% water change while
replacing the carbon filter to clean the water. <Don't
vacuum the bottom... too likely to impair the biological
filter> Also, I have a spare hang-on filter I could add to the
tank, as well. <Ah, great!> I was wondering what you
thought about continuing with another round of Maracyn/Maroxy
(the box says a second round of treatment is okay to use).
<Not worthwhile. Good products, but don't address the real
issue here> I understand completely that fixing the
environment is a must, but until the tank is finished re-cycling,
all I know to do is control the water chemistry with water
changes, vacuuming and Amquel+. <I would stop using the Amquel
as well... this fine Novalek product contains other chemicals
you'd do best avoiding...> In the meantime, should I
continue to treat my fish's symptoms with medication?
<No> I'm afraid if I stop medication and the infection
is still present with redness and everything, that the bacteria
will become resistant and render further medication useless. My
friend suggested, as a last resort, to dab some iodine solution
directly on the fin damage without letting it get in the water or
the fish's eyes. <Not worthwhile either> Have you heard
of this being successful, or is it more of a gamble? My gut tells
me just to keep doing water changes until the tank stabilizes,
but I'm by no means any kind of expert and I would hate to
think that my inaction will make my fish worse. I know you are
very busy, and I really do appreciate your help. And I know my
poor fish does, too! Sincerely, Jennifer <Best to just monitor
ammonia, nitrite, not feed period if these are detectable...
RMF>
Re: Goldfish-Resistant Fin Rot? - 07/14/08
Once, again, thank you for your help. I actually just have one
last question, not specifically related to the fin rot issue, but
important none-the-less. Maybe other relatively new fish
hobbyists like myself will also find it helpful. In all my fish
tanks, I have always used a specific brand of natural spring
water that I've found through chemical testing to have ideal
water chemistry for my goldfish. <Interesting... most tap
waters are fine for goldfish... provided they don't have too
much sanitizer. I simply vac, drain about a quarter of my
goldfish systems every week and replace with straight outdoor
hose tap (nothing else)... perhaps with a pickle bucket (four or
so gallons) of heated indoor water about the same time every
week> It is also very convenient not to have to pre-treat the
water other than letting the temperature equalize with that of
the tank water. However, after this round of trouble with my
Shubunkin, this method is becoming very expensive to keep up
water changes! <Is there some aspect of your source/house
water that you think/consider problematical?> I tested my tap
water, and all water chemistry is very similar to the spring
water (pH especially), but it contains 1.0 ppm of ammonia <!?
Surprising> (and chlorine which I would obviously let
evaporate). <This last "takes" about a week
nowadays... Chloramine, not chlorine> Is the only way to
"condition" the water for use in my tank a product like
Amquel+? <Mmm, no... the simplest is to let the water set for
the duration interval twixt change-outs... or "take a/the
risk" as I do, and only change part...> In the previous
email, you mentioned I should discontinue use of this product,
<Correct. I would NOT use daily... for the purpose of
arresting ammonia presence... see WWM, elsewhere re... will
forestall the establishment of nitrification (does this make
sense?) among other things it is best to avoid while the fish is
weakened> so I'm worried I shouldn't use it to
condition the tap water. I should mention I also have API's
Stress Coat on hand. <A very similar product. I also would not
use daily> Would this be a better alternative, or would I
encounter the same problem of extra unwanted chemicals?
<Yes...> Hopefully this will be the last time I have to bug
you so you can do your wonderful work with others in need. Thank
you! Sincerely, Jennifer <I do hope I am being clear,
complete-enough here Jennifer. You are an exemplary aquarist...
conscientious beyond fault. I realize there is much conflicting
information to be had via the Net, stores, even in-print books...
Best to read good sources, like Goldfish Connection, WWM, and
determine what is factual, useful for your situation yourself.
Bob Fenner>
Re: Goldfish-Resistant Fin Rot? 7/27/08 Hi
there, Bob (and Crew!) <Jennifer> I have just spent several
hours researching your and other sites for information on pH in
my ongoing saga to save my poor goldfish from a mysterious fin
rot issue. All the local pet stores I've visited have been
perplexed at why I can't seem to rid my fish of this problem.
As a brief refresher, I have a 27-gal tank with a single 4-in
Shubunkin who presented with bacterial fin rot 8 weeks ago. After
incorrectly treating with *many*meds, I took Bob's
much-appreciated advice and stopped all meds, focused on getting
the tank re-cycled and keeping the water in pristine conditions.
About a week ago, the tank finished cycling and the readings have
been steady at 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 5-10 nitrates. <Ah,
good!> However, the fin rot STILL has not cleared up. <This
will likely take weeks time> Since Bob's last reply, it
actually got slightly worse, but since the tank has finished
cycling, the redness on the edges of the frays has completely
disappeared, which I'm taking as a good sign, yes?
<Correct> However, there have been no signs of fin
regrowth. <If not "too rotted back" they will
regenerate in time> My continued efforts to understand the
underlying problem in this tank led me to m y current question on
pH. When the fin rot first appeared, the pH in the tank was
testing at 7.4-7.6 range (hard to get a precise reading against a
color chart). The spring water <Mmm... often this sort of
water is inferior to simple dechloraminated tap use...> I use
for partial water changes tests at 7.6-7.8. Oddly enough,
however, the tank water now tests at 8.0-8.2. Looking back, the
large doses of Amquel+ I was using could have lowered the tank pH
to the 7.4-7.6 level, but I'm not certain. After my first
round of research on Goldfish connection and Koko's goldfish
site, I learned to try the test of letting some of the spring
water sit in a cup for 24 hrs, then re-testing the pH. Oddly
enough, after sitting out, it was testing at 8.2! This explains
why my tank pH is high, but for the life of me, I can't find
an explanation for how the pH of the plain water can go up by
itself. <Mmm, likely a/the loss of oxygen...> Has anyone
else seen this problem? <Oh yes... does happen. Again, a
reason to just use tap...> If so, is there anything I can do
to fix it or is it something I don't need to necessarily
worry about? <... I'd use tap...> A post on Goldfish
Connection stated that a goldfish will do fine in pH up to 8.4
and that he wouldn't bother taking action unless it goes
above 9.0. <Mmm... as an upper limit> A pH of 8.2 just
seems so high to me, though and I want to make sure it isn't
the reason my fish hasn't healed. I've strongly
considered switching to tap water, but there is so much chlorine,
ammonia and chloramines in Tampa, FL tap water that I have to add
5-times the recommended dose of AmQuel+ just to get a 0 reading
for ammonia. <Store it in a loose- fitting topped container
for a week or more ahead of use...> LPS employees have told me
I can just dump the untreated water directly in the tank and add
a standard dose, but this didn't sound like a good idea to me
(then again, what do I know?). <This is... actually what I do,
have done for many years with my fancy goldfish systems in S.
Cal.... mostly w/ no dechloraminator at all> I'd prefer to
keep using the spring water (from Silver Springs in FL), but
I'm willing to stop if you all think the pH is too high.
<I wouldn't use because I'm cheap, and not necessary,
better than tap> Thank you so much... my little guy would
probably be dead from over-medication if I hadn't listened to
your advice two weeks ago, so please know how truly grateful I
am. With much respect, Jennifer <Thank you for sharing.
BobF>
Re: Goldfish-Resistant Fin Rot? 8/12/08
Dear WWM Crew, <Jennifer> I have to say I'm on the
verge of giving up hope. As you know, I've been battling a
persistent fin rot issue for 10 weeks. Despite consistent good
water quality since my last post on July 27 (0 ammonia, 0
nitrite, 5 nitrate, pH=8.2), my Shubunkin goldfish became
re-infected with the same fin rot infection he had before. In my
last post, I had reported the redness surrounding the rot had
completely cleared up. I was so excited! But, this was short
lived as I noticed the redness was beginning to return on 8/7. I
immediately began feeding a medicated food because I wanted to
stop the infection before it got out of control, but to no avail.
It is now a full-blown infection again with the rot progressing.
Although the infection had previously cleared, his fins never did
start to regrow. This will probably be my last post on the issue
because I feel that I've done all that is humanly possible. I
even removed the large cave that has been in his 27gal aquarium
for 2 years "just in case" it was starting to leech
toxins! My LFSs have given up on me as they say there is nothing
left to try. I do regular maintenance on the filters, keep the
tank clean and still perform an approx. 20% water change once per
week to maintain excellent water conditions. The main reason for
my post is to see if anyone can think of something I've
overlooked. If not, I fear the worst may happen. It's so
sad...he really is a trooper, because despite his persistent
illness, he still eats and swims normally, although perhaps a
little slower than in his healthier days. Please tell me, is
there anything else I can do? Thank you for your time. With hope
fading, Jennifer <Mmm, nothing more... only more patience. Do
hang in there Jen. BobF>
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Bloated goldfish, skip the tea, read - 7/1/08
Hi! <Brett> I have a goldfish (white and gold comet) that's
become bloated, with its scales sticking out (like dropsy?) and bubbles
forming on its skin. <Doesn't sound good does it?> It had
become bloated once before, after getting a fungal infection - on that
occasion I treated it with product called Pimafix (active ingredient is
Bay oil) <Worthless> which is both an anti-fungal and an
antibacterial treatment (according to the label), and the goldfish
recovered, with only a couple of discolored spots on its skin where the
fungus has been. This time there has been no sign of fungal infection,
and the other goldfish in the tank are unaffected. It started as an odd
looking lump on the underbelly, and some deterioration of the dorsal
fin, but in the space of a couple of days the goldfish became quite
bloated. I went to my local pet store and they were out of Pimafix, but
said that it sounded like a bacterial infection this time, and sold me
another treatment called Melafix <Also> (active ingredient is
Cajeput (Tea tree) oil). However, after a week of treating the tank
(and feeding it some peas), the only result has been the appearance of
these bubbles on the skin. <...> I have checked the ammonia,
nitrate and nitrite levels in my tank - ammonia and nitrite are zero,
nitrate less than 5 ppm. (The tank is 80 litres, and currently has only
three goldfish and one large freshwater snail in it.) <These
readings and tank size are all fine...> I'm now wondering if the
problem is not bacterial at all, but maybe fungal or some sort of
parasite. The goldfish is still active and feeding well, but obviously
not getting better. Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated. Brett
<Actual bacterial, fungal "causes" of disease in captive
aquatics are rare as chicken's teeth... these are almost always
secondary effects of other etiologies... poor water quality, some sort
of challenge otherwise... I suspect a root issue and cure here are
nutritive in nature. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshmalnut.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
From the WetWebMedia Crew, about your goldfish
Goldfish, Water Quality, Stress, and Melafix - 06/10/2008 Hi, I
have a 30 gallon aquarium and 3 goldfish and 1 algae eater in it.
<I'm not fond of some of the fish that are called "algae
eater" - if this is the common "Chinese algae eater", he
will eventually grow into a big, mean fish that will harass your other
fish. It'll take a while, though.> They had Ick and their tails
were a little bit ripped so I looked up 'Ick' in WWM and I read
that it could be treated with salt so I tried it and one algae eater
died and the rest of the fish were all sad. So I changed the water and
after 2 days tried the salt treatment again but this time I took the
algae eater out. The goldfish were all sad again so I changed the water
again and bought a remedy called 'Melafix' <This will do
nothing at all for Ich or any other parasitic problems.... and some
folks feel that Melafix (extract of the Melaleuca tree) can be
irritating to fish as well. I do not use or recommend it.> and I did
just what the bottle said and the fish's tail got better and the
Ick didn't get worse or better. <Melafix will not treat Ich.>
Then I left for vacations so I told my friend to take care of the fish
when I came back one of them was on the floor and it was breathing very
fast and its tail, head, eye, and fin were red; it doesn't move
much and it doesn't eat it still breathes fast (it has been like
that for 2 days). Please help me with an advise, at this moment
we're on the second week of Melafix treatment with a 25% water
change after the first week. <Were it me and my fish, I would
discontinue using Melafix, as it will do nothing for Ich at all. I
strongly recommend that you test your water for Ammonia, Nitrite, and
Nitrate - Ammonia and Nitrite must be ZERO, Nitrate less than 20ppm. If
these are above these levels, do water changes immediately to bring
them down. Again, Ammonia and Nitrite must be ZERO; this is vitally
important, and I suspect this may be the cause of why the fish's
fins, eyes and skin are red and he is breathing fast. Once Ammonia and
Nitrite are zero and Nitrate is less than 20ppm, I would recommend
using salt or one of the common Ich treatments, like Rid-Ich, to treat
the Ich. I, personally, prefer to use salt and heat to treat Ich, but
it seems to me you are concerned about it after your experience. Make
sure you do some big water changes before you use any medications to
get the Melafix out first; please don't try to mix medications. Be
sure to use a dechlorinator for the new water and try to match the pH
of the new water to the pH in the tank as closely as possible. You
might want to read here for a bit more about goldfish systems:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm .
Wishing you and your goldfish well, -Sabrina>
About my goldfish, dis. & homeopathics... avoiding
non "fixes" 10/23/07 My two new goldfish have
recently been developing small white spots on their back fins and I was
wondering if that might be Ich and if there is a homeopathy remedy that
can cure that? If not what else would you suggest? Thanks for your
help! Concerned Fish owner <Sounds like Whitespot/Ick. No
homeopathic remedy that I know of. Various tea-tree derivatives
(Melafix, Pimafix, etc.) are on the market but they don't really
work reliably. Avoid them. Don't mess about with this, because Ick
is a killer. Go straight for medications that work. Your local retailer
will have a variety based on copper and/or formalin. Do also review
aquarium conditions -- fish get sick because of the aquarium, nine
times out of ten. Review our articles on goldfish care. Cheers,
Neale>
Last Chance For A <sic> Sic Fish... Doing your best for a
Comet 03/22/07 After 2 months of searching, reading,
attempting, and calling... I'm now writing you in a last ditch
effort to save my goldfish Columbo. He has been unable to
open his mouth for going on 2 months now. He's managed
to stay healthy until just the past 2 weeks when its finally started to
catch up to him. Currently am force feeding him with a
syringe of which he manages to get a quarter of the food down that I
give him. He's become decidedly emaciated and is
starting to slow down. <Not good> His lives in a 20 Gallon tank
with a rubber nosed Pleco as his only tank mate. I'm
very aggressive about the water conditions and keep the tank chemistry
fairly steady. 78deg F, 7.2pH, 0amonia, 0nitrite,
and trace nitrates. He's had a varied
diet of TetraFin goldfish flakes, Brine shrimp, and algae tablets.
<Not enough greenery...> He has a congenital defect in his left
eye. That particular eye is malformed and what my wife
describes as a proteoeye.. i.e... much smaller not well formed but has
some function. He shows no other signs of illness except that he cannot
open his mouth to eat and not from lack of trying. On
occasion I have seen him open his mouth to "yawn" and then
jerk after the fact (Pain?). I've read about rocks being
stuck.. checked none found. <Good> Read about Columnaris
disease... other than being unable to open his mouth no other symptoms,
but tried an antibiotic anyway. I've read about poor
nutrition, as I've stated his diet has been varied so not sure what
else to do there. I've tried MelaFix treatments multiple
times. <Worthless> I have noticed that he will be
able to open his mouth for a few seconds after adding a dose of MelaFix
to the tank. I've tried finding a vet in the area that
treats fish and I've had no luck, none here (major metropolitan
area) treat fish. I'm running out of options and
time. If I can find a cure soon I'm going to have to
euthanize him. I know he's in pain, and the added injury
of allowing him to starve to death would be just plain wrong. PS I
would have tried the forum first, but your account creation seems to be
down. <Please contact Zo there... he runs such, not us> Thank you
for your time Wes <Likely there is not anything that can actually be
done here... This condition is likely congenital... If your goldfish
does appear to be suffering, I would euthanize it. I do encourage you
to try another variety (other than Comet) of goldfish, as these are
very poorly produced, treated in culture. Bob Fenner>
Goldfish Environment 6.12.05 Over the past five days I've
had a range of problems with my five goldfish. <I thought you said 4
goldfish.> Firstly, my comet has a " air sack" in its
belly and its not eating, so I transferred it in a 10 litre container
and added the inside of peas (for it to eat), MelaFix and a water
conditioner. is this right ? should I double the MelaFix formula?
<So far as I know Melafix is not going to help the swim bladder
issue. 10 litres is too small.> Second, my fantail got caught
in a sandstone rock on Wednesday and I separated it into a 3 litre
(with MelaFix formula) ceramic container. Now it lies at the bottom and
hasn't eaten for five days the wound is healing slowly though. Is
this also right what I've done? <way to small, he will use up
the oxygen in the water and foul the water super fast.> Last, my
large red Oranda, black Moor and white fantail have been put back into
the 20 litre tank with 2 ml of MelaFix to fix the blood hemorrhaging.
Again, Is what I've done right? Why are all these problems
happening and how can I prevent it? also, what other food
could I feed them apart from flakes? <This is what I would do in
this situation. Get at least a 75 liter (20gallon) aquarium,
(Please let me know if my conversion are wrong, it is very
possible). Do not use any sharp/rough decorations, goldfish
are big fat and clumsy. Put them all back in the same tank,
it does not sound like they have diseases that are going to spread to
one another. Feed them peeled peas, thawed frozen goldfish
food, or soak your dry flaked or pelleted food in a small container of
tank water prior to feeding. Do not skimp on the filtration
or aeration. If possible add some Elodea/Anacharis to the
tank, this is a live plant that is good for digestion among other
things. Best of Luck, Gage>
Red and Black Fin Streaks Dear Crew, <Hello, Mike G with
you this evening.> We have 2 goldfish which we have had for about
2.5 years and acquired them both when they were roughly 1 inch in
length. We went from a 3 gallon Eclipse system to a 6
gallon, then a 12 gallon and most recently to a 29 gallon Eclipse
system which required a lot of "new" dechlorinated
water. The 2 goldfish are now between 5 & 7 inches in
length. There was some expected stress the first day or so
after the introduction to the new tank and we saw one of the fish lose
part of its fin. <You didn't cycle?> They
eventually settled in and have been feeding very well. After a few
days to week, we noticed the water appearing a little cloudy (we had
introduced new plastic tank "rocks" etc and didn't know
if the cloudiness was some sort of residue). <Probably a
bacterial bloom, as the tank was uncycled when the fish were
introduced.> It has been approximately 3 - 4 weeks in their new
aquarium and the 2 goldfish seem happy with normal activity and eating
habits but one has in the last day or so developed RED streaks in its
fins (almost like red ink) and the OTHER fish has developed a few BLACK
spots on its scales and BLACK streaks in its fins (especially near the
edges). <Hmm... Red sounds like a bacterial infection,
black streaks in those places can also indicate "ammonia
burns." Both are caused by poor water quality, which happens when
a tank is not cycled. test your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate
levels.> There food has not changed and consists of a mixture of
Nutrafin Goldfish flakes and goldfish floating pellets (I thought that
using some pellet food would lessen the amount of uneaten flake food
particles that would sink to the bottom and add to the protein/nitrate
levels of the tank). Tomorrow, I plan to test the water and do an
exchange. Do you have any ideas as to the cause of these
newly developed RED fin-streaks on one fish and the BLACK fin-streaks
and small spots on the other? <Bacteria/poor water
quality/not cycling. Try a nice big water change and dose some MelaFix
for the bacterial infection. Good luck. Mike G> Thanks very much!
David
Red and Black Fin Streaks Dear Mike, <That's me> Thanks
so much for the response. <No problem. Glad I helped.> I tested
the water today and the Ammonia level was high (8) <Woah!
8 parts per million? That is absolutely deadly. 1ppm is considered
high. 2 is considered massively high. But 8? Well, that is in a class
of its own! And your fish only have red and black streaks! A testament
to the hardiness of goldfish!> the nitrites were in a normal range
as was the pH and hardness. I did a 25 - 30 % water
change and treated the tank with AmmoLock 2. <A good
call. Keep up with those water changes!> The fish are still doing
relatively well; one still has the red streaks in fins and
the other still has the black near the fin tips. <It will take a
while to fully disappear once conditions are corrected.> The one
with black is now showing more black "spots" on scales and
some black discoloration on one of the gills. <Ammonia is still
burning it. Test again, change more water... > I will obtain some
MelaFix. Do you think I need to think about salt, copper or
formalin at all? <No, right now I think you only need to worry about
that ammonia level.> Can you please tell me what would have been the
proper way to cycle the water in this case going from a 12 to 29 gallon
tank? I'm still very much a novice but learning quickly
from my mistakes. <We were all once there! I am glad to see you
taking the initiative to help your fish/learn form your mistakes. Okay,
now for "Cycling 101" Ammonia is a compound toxic to aquatic
life, and is also produced by all aquatic life through everyday bodily
functions, such as respiration and the passing of feces. Decaying
organic matter also produces Ammonia. Certain beneficial bacteria
consume Ammonia and convert it to Nitrites in the process. When a tank
is first set up, there are no substantial colonies of the said
bacteria, so the Ammonia level quickly rises. As time goes by, these
bacteria will build their populations up to colonies large enough to
effectively convert all Ammonia to Nitrite on an as-produced basis.
Nitrite, though much less toxic than Ammonia, is quite a deadly
compound itself, and approximately 1ppm of Ammonia would convert to
somewhere in the neighborhood of 2.5ppm Nitrite, so you could imagine
it builds up rather quickly. The Nitrite is converted to Nitrate in
much the same way as Ammonia into Nitrite, except a different species
of bacteria is responsible for the said conversion. Nitrate is nowhere
near as toxic as Ammonia, and pales in comparison to Nitrite. However,
around 2.5ppm of Nitrite will convert to approximately 6ppm of Nitrate.
So, you can see, as the cycle is going on, a lot of Nitrate is
produced. Nitrate is the "end product" of the conversions,
and there is no aerobic species of bacteria that consumes it. However,
things like plant life and water changes will all help absorb Nitrates,
emphasis being placed upon water changes. Best of luck, and keep me in
the loop. Mike G.> Thanks a bunch! David
Goldfish with Red and Black Fin Streaks Back again. Now
I'm REALLY bewildered. After my successful reduction of ammonia to
2 ppm, I did another 25 - 30% water exchange followed by a second 25 -
30% exchange to find that the next morning the ammonia level was back
up to 4 ppm this morning. Today, I did a 30% exchange this
am and this pm, the ammonia level was again at 4 ppm. I
followed this with a 50 % water exchange because the fish are now
starting to show some wear....much more black spots (burns?) and the
smaller fish is now starting to suggest some encephalopathy, i.e.
darting around and crashing into the sides of the tank
etc. The bewildering things is that after the 50% water
exchange, I tested the water again and it was STILL at 4 ppm.
What's going on here? Should or should I not be using the bacterial
cultures such as Stability or StressZyme in an attempt to build the
nitrifying bacterial populations? I would REALLY like any suggestions
that you could give. Otherwise, I will keep doing daily
water exchanges until SOMETHING happens. Thanks, David <Try Bio
Spira for an instant cycle. Expensive and hard to find, but it will
work. Other than that, you need time and lots of water changes. Avoid
all chemicals except dechlorinator. And keep the water changes going
strong. 50% daily is not too much. Don><<The "Fix"
did it... killed off the nitrifiers. RMF>>
Goldfish with mouth rot Hello, <Hi there> I got a
goldfish at a local fair (I know, I know, I hate that, but I thought I
could save one by taking one home). <This is how many of us got
started...> We had two and one died this week from what looked like
swim bladder. This other fish seemed fine - strong and healthy. Then,
unfortunately, I took another of these fish from a friend and
introduced it to the tank right away. Shortly after, our original
healthy fish developed what looks to me like mouth rot. I am
heartbroken as this fish seems to be suffering. I put it into a
hospital tank and treated with Melafix and Pimafix. It's been on
Melafix for 2 days and I just put the Pimafix in. The problem seems to
be getting worse. Should I switch medications and try some other
anti-bacterial medication? <I would give up on these leaf-extracts
and add aquarium salt...> Please answer soon as it's getting
very bad and I know it's because of the other fish and I feel
terrible. I'm not sure where to find your answer. Is it possible to
e-mail me at: <Please take a read on WWM re goldfish disease,
systems... there are articles and FAQs files there to answer your
questions. Bob Fenner> Thank you so much. Carol Pugliano-Martin
FW disease city, hypochondria Hi, my name is Brandi and I
have a few problems (I think) with my fish. I have an orange and white
fantail in my ten gallon tank and his dorsal fin is laying down. He
stays at the top of the water a little, but he's not gasping or
flopping or anything. I can see no other signs of sickness, and my
other goldfish (in the same tank) is healthy and active. My water seems
to be okay, except not quite as acidic as it might should
be. <Mmm, actually, better to keep goldfish in slightly
alkaline water... 7.2-7.5 or so is ideal. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
> Should I add aquarium salt or any kind of acid-upper? <... not
for this purpose, but some salt addition may be a good idea. As stated,
you may be confused re what pH is... Please read WWM re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwph,alk.htm
> Also, I have a female Betta who has had her dorsal fin ripped off.
She's swimming fine, and eats well, and recognizes me when I come
to the tank. I'm treating her by herself in a 2.5 gallon tank with
Melafix. <I would NOT use this product... or herbal remedies
period> Her wound seems grave, but she seems okay. Is there anything
else I should be doing for her? <Please read WWM re...> Finally,
I'm treating my mollies for some kind of weird shimmy/clamped fins
combo with Quick Cure. They seem all better now, but how long
should I continue the treatment? <Please see...> How do I clean
their tank (it's got snails in it and how they got there, I have no
idea but I like them)? <Please...> Any help would be very
much appreciated, and I apologize if these questions have already been
answered, but I couldn't find anything with the search tool that
quite fit my situation. Thank you again! <Umm, see the list of
suggestions re querying us? Please use the materials archived on
WetWebMedia... the search tool, indices... Bob Fenner...>
Goldfish in Distress Hi there. One month ago we brought home
two fantail goldfish and both were doing well up until a few days ago
when Ariel was resting at the bottom of the 10 gallon Eclipse EXPLORER
II tank with a pump filtration system. Until last night, she would rest
and then swim erratically around, spiraling and then come to rest on
her side at the bottom. Her sides seem a bit distended and pointy. She
was fed every other day and sometimes every day and pinch Omega One
Natural Protein Formula Goldfish flakes. Our LPS tested the water this
morning and it tested fine. He thought it may be a parasite infection
and told us to give 1/2 teaspoon of MELA/FIX every day for one week. It
has been less then a day but I am worried about her. Is there a chance
she will swim again? She's just hanging out around the intake tube.
Her fins seem fine. The top one just drapes over her little body. Any
suggestions? Thank You! Maryann in Connecticut <Yep, a
couple. Start doing large water changes to get rid of that #$*%ing
MelaFix. 50% at a time. Two the first day, a few hours apart, then
daily. I have read too many reports of someone using it because of a
little rip in a fin only to have their fish end up unable to breath.
Look for the "active ingredients". There are none. This is
boiled tree bark or some other nonsense. And I have never heard of
using it for a parasitic infection, if that's what your fish has.
The water changes alone by be enough to get the fish back swimming. If
not, look for a medicine with Metronidazole listed on it. If the fish
is eating, flake food treated with Metronidazole would be best. You can
get the flake online
here: http://www.guppiesplus.safeshopper.com Good luck.
Don
Moldy fish fins Hello, I have a little fan-tail goldfish
(Art). 6 days ago Art developed a small black spot on his
dorsal fin. I quarantined him into a tank and gave a dose of
Melafix and commenced a salt treatment. The tank he came
from was also given Melafix, but his other friends all look
fine. The black spot grew and now covers his tail, dorsal
fin and the top of his head. The black growth looks like
mould, yet it doesn't appear to effect his happiness (he was a
little depressed when I put him into the hospital tank, but cheered up
after a day). He is eating fine. I have reached
the suggested salt/water ratio, and his tank has aeration. I'm
keeping up the Melafix. I have looked through FAQ's and
have found answers relating to a change of colour, but this appears to
be a substance growing across his surface. I am worried as
he hasn't improved - and I've totally run out of
ideas to try. I hope you may be able to answer my question,
and I sincerely thank you in advance (as does Art), Cheers, Michelle
>>Dear Michelle; It sounds like your goldfish has a bacterial
infection. You will need to treat with a stronger medication than
Melafix. Ask at your Local Fish Store for a good antibiotic for
goldfish. You will need to remove your carbon from the filter when you
treat, since carbon removes meds. Also, make sure your water quality is
good. Please test your water! You need to know the ammonia, nitrite,
and nitrate levels. Test it during the treatment, also, as antibiotics
will kill your beneficial bacteria colonies in the filter.
-Gwen<<
Moldy Fish Fins Hello Gwen, Thank you very much for your
help. With gratitude, Michelle and Art Michelle, hello, how
is Art doing? Did you have any luck finding medication? I forgot to
mention you can buy all the required test kits at your local fish
store, or they will probably test your water for free, or for a small
sum (couple of dollars) for you. If you do have ammonia or nitrite in
your water, you must do frequent partial water changes to keep the
levels low. Same for nitrates, only it is not quite so toxic. Since it
is the fish that produce the ammonia, you will need to test the water
during the time you are treating him with medication, as I mentioned
earlier, due to the fact that the meds will kill the bacteria that are
oxidizing the ammonia and nitrites and reducing them to the less toxic
form, nitrate. The ammonia will then build up in the water, which will
stress the fish. Sorry I did not go into more detail in my previous
email. If you have more questions, do not hesitate to ask! -Gwen >
Hello, I have a little fan-tail goldfish (Art). 6 days ago
Art developed a small black spot on his dorsal fin. I
quarantined him into a tank and gave a dose of Melafix and commenced a
salt treatment. The tank he came from was also given
Melafix, but his other friends all look fine. The black spot
grew and now covers his tail, dorsal fin and the top of his
head. The black growth looks like mould, yet it doesn't
appear to effect his happiness (he was a little depressed when I put
him into the hospital tank, but cheered up after a day). He
is eating fine. I have reached the suggested salt/water
ratio, and his tank has aeration. I'm keeping up the
Melafix. I have looked through FAQ's and have found
answers relating to a change of colour, but this appears to be a
substance growing across his surface. I am worried as he
hasn't improved - and I've totally run out of ideas
to try. I hope you may be able to answer my question, and I
sincerely thank you in advance (as does A! > RT), Cheers,
Michelle > >>Dear Michelle; It sounds like your goldfish has a
bacterial infection. You will need to treat with a stronger medication
than Melafix. Ask at your Local Fish Store for a good antibiotic for
goldfish. You will need to remove your carbon from the filter when you
treat, since carbon removes meds. Also, make sure your water quality is
good. Please test your water! You need to know the ammonia, nitrite,
and nitrate levels. Test it during the treatment, also, as antibiotics
will kill your beneficial bacteria colonies in the filter.
-Gwen<<
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Goldfish Success
What it takes to keep goldfish healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
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