FAQs About Goldfish
Disease/Health
52
Related Articles:
Goldfish Systems, Goldfish 101: Goldfish May
Be Popular, And They May Be Cheap, But That Doesn't Make Them Easy
Aquarium Fish by Neale Monks, Goldfish Disease,
Goldfish,
Goldfish Varieties,
Koi/Pond Fish Disease, Livestock Treatment System,
Bloaty, Floaty Goldfish,
Gas Bubble Disease/Emphysematosis,
Pond Parasite Control with DTHP,
Hole in the Side
Disease/Furunculosis,
Related FAQs:
Goldfish Disease 1,
Goldfish Disease 2,
Goldfish Disease 3,
Goldfish Disease 4,
Goldfish Disease 5, Goldfish Disease 6,
Goldfish Disease 7,
Goldfish Disease 8,
Goldfish Disease 9,
Goldfish Disease 10,
Goldfish Disease 11,
Goldfish Disease 12,
Goldfish Disease 13,
Goldfish Disease 14,
Goldfish Disease 15,
Goldfish Disease 16,
Goldfish Disease 17,
Goldfish Disease 18,
Goldfish Disease 19,
Goldfish Disease 20, Goldfish Disease 21,
Goldfish Health 22,
Goldfish
Health 23,
Goldfish Disease 24, Goldfish Health 25,
Goldfish Disease
26,
Goldfish Disease 27,
Goldfish Disease 28,
Goldfish Disease 29, Goldfish Disease 30,
Goldfish
Disease 31,
Goldfish Disease 32,
Goldfish Disease 33,
Goldfish Disease 34,
Goldfish Disease 35,
Goldfish Health 36, Goldfish Health 37,
Goldfish Disease
38, Goldfish Disease
39 Goldfish Disease 39,
Goldfish Disease 40,
Goldfish Disease 41,
Goldfish Disease 42,
Goldfish Disease 43,
Goldfish Disease 44,
Goldfish Disease 45,
Goldfish Disease 46,
Goldfish Disease 47,
Goldfish Disease 48,
Goldfish Disease 49,
Goldfish Disease 50,
Goldfish Disease
51,
Goldfish Disease 53,
Goldfish Disease 54,
Goldfish Disease 55,
FAQs on Goldfish Medicines
Antifungals,
Antibacterials, Anti-protozoals (
Copper,
eSHa,
Metronidazole,
Formalin,
Copper,
Malachite Green),
Dewormers,
Organophosphates,
Salts,
Mela- et al. non-fixes,
Misc. Med.s,
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Goldfish Disease by "Types", Causes:
Environmental 1,
Environmental 2,
Environmental 3,
Environmental 4,
Environmental 5, Environmental ,
(Absolutely the Biggest Category)
Floaty Bloaty Goldfish
Nutritional (Second Largest)
Genetic/Developmental
Eye Troubles
Lumps/Bumps/Growths
(including idiopathic tumors)
Behavioral/Social
Viral and Bacterial, Fungal
Infectious
Parasitic: (Ich,
Protozoans, Flukes, Worms, Crustacean/
Anchorworms/Lernaeids, )
Fish Lice (Argulus),
Goldfish Swim Bladder Problems
Anomalous (Misc., Injuries, etc.)
|
|
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon
Goldfish Success
What it takes to keep goldfish healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
|
floating goldfish
1/18/14
I have a goldfish that has been floating on her side for about 6 months
now. I know why it has happened and blame nothing but myself. My biggest
question is i am a veterinary technician and have a working knowledge of
anatomy. I knew it was air that is keeping her floating on her side and
was able to expel air with a syringe and a lot of it! She was able to
swim lower in the tank more comfortably so i knew I had relieved some of
the issue. I know this is not where the swim bladder is supposed to be,
but does it move? I have noticed after all attempts of treatment and not
working that supportive care is the only thing left. I just wanted to
make sure this was for sure the swim bladder, the fish is defecating on
a normal basis. It's very difficult to find any info beyond basic
husbandry and more on veterinary aspects. Thanks for any information.
Casey
<Hello Casey. The commonest cause of "floaty, bloaty Goldfish" as Bob
calls it is poor diet. Goldfish are adapted to be herbivorous, and do
best given a fibre-rich diet. Pellets and flake are nutritionally
complete in most regards, but lack the indigestible matter that helps
keep their intestines ticking over nicely. When Goldfish, especially
fancy Goldfish (which have deformed spines and displaced swim bladders
anyway), become constipated, their centres of mass and buoyancy aren't
where they should be. Normally the centre of buoyancy would be
vertically above the centre of mass (imagine a hot air balloon with the
wicker basket, the weight, hanging vertically below the air-filled bag,
which is the buoyancy, and you'll have an accurate analogy). Lumps of
faeces in the intestine shift the centre of mass one way or the other,
and like an unbalanced boat, this causes the Goldfish to roll over,
sometimes even upside-down, because the laws of physics state the centre
of mass MUST be vertically below the centre of buoyancy, at least when
the Goldfish isn't actively trying to swim or otherwise correct its
posture. The fix isn't too difficult: a combination of high fibre and
Epsom salt does the trick nine times out of ten. Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/gldfshmalnut.htm
Note that you want to stop using any foods other than fresh greens for
the duration, and once the fish recovers, keep using the fresh greens
liberally to prevent constipation in the future. Not all "floaty, bloaty
Goldfish" have problems swimming because of constipation, so do also
review their other key requirements, here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/goldfish101art.htm
Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>
Goldfish with peeling lip
12/17/13
Hi-
<Holli>
I've attached a pic of a goldfish that looks like the skin is peeling
only on his upper lip.
<... apparently some sort of infection/decomposition... from? Physical
damage? Environmental issue/s? You offer no useful data... System,
tankmates, foods/feeding, water quality... >
He's fine everywhere else as are the other three goldfish in the tank.
This has been going on for several months as I thought since no one else
had any symptoms it might clear up on its own.
Any thoughts on what might be causing this? Thanks very much for
any help.
Holli
<.... Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshdisease.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
|
|
What's happening to my
goldfish? Floaty, bloaty
11/2/13
My gold fish is about 2 yrs old, has lived in a 4ft tank with 3 other
goldfish for over a yr. Then three days ago this happened (see photos -
sorry about floatly bits was fed 5 mins ago) and I removed her from the tank
and put her in a smaller separate tank using water from the big tank but I
have had to use a clean internal filter as that's all I had available. I
know that's no ideal but I didn't want the other fish to gang up on her.
The big tank has an external filter and normal levels of nitrate etc...
which I get checked at an aquatic store every 2 months. All the other fish
seem fine at the moment but I'm keeping an eye open in case they get this
too.
Does any know what might be happening to my fish?
Thank you
Tara
<... yes. Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshmalnut.htm
And the linked files above. As you'll find, more roundish sports of GF are
subject to this condition... Bob Fenner> |
|
Do you know what's wrong? GF, need info.
10/23/13
Hi my name is Stacy and this is my goldfish Skips I have had him for
about two weeks and I noticed last night this white circle on him I did
research and didn't see anything that really looked like it he acts
normal and still eats everyday the white spot is not a bump it's flat
almost like his scales got pulled off and I'm not sure if I should be
really worried or not I attached some pictures to the email in hopes it
could help identify what's wrong thank you.
<...? What re the system; is it cycled? Water quality? Have you read on
WWM re goldfish health? This damaged area may be infected... but can't
tell w/o information. Bob Fenner>
|
|
sick Oranda.. & repro. f'
9/20/13
Hello.
<Jan>
I was wondering if you could give me some advice on my female Oranda,..
I have had her for 9 years,, She as been well up to about 4 days ago..
I noticed she shed some eggs, then after that day she hasn't eaten
and has this long white stringy looking skin type of poo tube.. But with
no poo in it......The stringy thing releases after a day or so
then it starts to come out again.........
<Part of the egg shedding; not to worry>
I took her out of the tank to see if she had anyhting stuck in her
throat.
But there is nothing....She is swimming and breathing Ok. But my worry
is she is not eating...... it has now been five days.... As I picked her
up I noticed a creamy white substance coming out of her bottom..........
<Nor re this>
I have spoken to two different people at different fish stores.
One said she may have a tumour and I should euthanise
her............
<What? No>
The other said she could be going through a healing process after
spawning because of her age...... and If she's not eating in
7 days use salt....
Which he didn't really recommend''..
<Perhaps a modicum of Epsom. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/SaltUseFWArtNeale.htm
I hope you can help me I don't really want to lose her.........
<Certainly>
Thank you Jan Barker..........
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Re: sick Oranda.. 9/22/13
Dear Bob.
I want to thank you for your very useful information.. It's nice to know
there are people like you out there.
If I had taken notice of my so called fish expert friend at the
pond shop... My lovely girl would be dead now. She has started to eat a
little thank goodness I have been putting fry food in the water
and she must have
been getting some goodness from it.. The pooless tube is still coming
out of
her bottom... Do you have any idea how long this can go on for ??? and
is it
doing her harm.......
<A few more days and no harm whatsoever. There are some folks (even
here) that might suggest using a modicum of salt/s; but I would do
nothing here period>
Thank you again, I am most grateful..
Jan Barker.
<Glad to set your mind to ease. Cheers, BobF>
Re My fish 9/30/13
Dear Bob
<Hey Jan>
I wanted to send you a picture of my now well, lovely
Oranda... At least I think she is an Oranda I got her in a mixed bunch
9 years ago as a baby....
I was very grateful for your useful information..
<Ahh!>
Imagine putting that lovely face in the freezer as,,, My so called expert
fish keeper suggested.
Thank you again .Jan Barker..........
<Life to you my friend. BobF>
|
|
Injured goldfish 9/12/13
Hi-
I have two Goldfish, we have had them for 6 years next month. They
are in a 30 gallon tank with 2 filters running.
<Good to have redundancy>
On Monday morning one of our dining room chairs fell back ( less than a
foot) and bumped the tank, not too hard but hard enough. It scared
my orange fish so badly. She started flailing all over the tank so
fast ,swimming as fast as she could, slamming into the walls, rocks from
the bottom were flying all over the filter lid flew off... it was awful!
It was only for maybe 5 seconds, but seemed like forever. Right
after she went sideway, and belly up. Slowly but surely she
recovered, but her breathing remained extremely high for hours.
She scraped some of her scales and now both of her eyes have a clear
bubble on them.
<Physical damage>
She isn't moving about the tank much and doesn’t seem to be eating, even
the other fish doesn’t seem to be eating I immediately
added Melafix
<Worthless... see WWM re>
to the water for her scales, and I hope this was ok to do. The
tank seems to smell really weird now ??
<Yes; the API "tea"... may interrupt nitrification (do check for
ammonia, nitrite), poisoning your fish>
I am having trouble finding info about this eye condition,
<Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/GFEyeTroubleF.htm
I keep finding bubble eye goldfish with a condition. Is there
anything I can do to help?
<Yes; patience and good care... optimal, stable water quality (change
water a few times now to remove the "tea"), and nutrition>
Does this mean she is blind?
<Doubtful; no>
I thought I found something about adding Epson Salt to the tank to draw
out the liquid??
<Salts can be of use... see Neale's work on WWM re>
Is there anything I can do to help???
<As stated... I'd have you review as much of what is posted on WWM re GF
as possible... You list nothing re foods, feeding, nor water quality...
so could only guess here. Read>
Any info is greatly appreciated. Thank you so much~
Michelle
>Welcome, Bob Fenner>
Need help for Goldfish (Fantail)
9/4/13
RMF's go
Hello friends,
<Shami>
I rescued a goldfish (Fantail?) last week, who was kept in a
tiny bowl. I have a spare tank of ~150L that I cleaned up and put the
goldfish in it. I also have a small power head filter that I
installed in the tank.
<Ah good>
Although, the filter is pretty small and I have tried to minimize the
flow (by adding carbon strips at the inlet/outlets), she has a difficult
time in swimming. She seems to be losing the balance and gets sucked
towards the filter. So, I keep the filter on for an hour in the morning
and then another hour in the evening. I change ~20% water every day.
<Sounds good>
I think she is unwell, because her poop is clear (transparent) with
(sometimes) bubbles in it, and floats at the top of the tank.
<Mmm, what are you feeding this fish? Likely the slowness, lack of
swimming ability is just a "left over" from the bowl experience
previously. The fish will strengthen in time in your good care>
I kept her on fast for two days and then gave her a couple of tiny
blanched peas, which she ate with not much interest. I have kept her on
minimum diet (max 1 or 1.5 peas) once a day, but she seems to be pooping
a lot. For the past few days, I have observed long strings in the poop
(not clear/transparent but like a thin long white cotton thread).
<... I would start this fish on a good staple... pellet-based; Hikari or
Spectrum or equivalent. At least offered twice a day>
Based on my limited experience and online searches, I think she may
either be constipated, or may have internal parasites. I am attaching a
picture, but I am not sure it that will help.
<This fish looks okay macroscopically, though mal-nourished>
My questions are:
1. Most of the times, she sits under the filter and does not move much.
I do not think this is normal. Is it?
<It is; considering the recent past>
2. She has been fasting for 4 days now. How long before I stop feeding
her peas, and start with Hikari (I have Hikari for cichlids).
<Immediately>
3. Since I have never kept goldfishes before, I feel the stomach is
bloated. But then looking at other pictures, they all seems to have
bigger bellies. Can you see anything wrong from the picture?
<Nothing wrong here. The sport/mutation of Fantail (goldfish) is
supposed to "look bloated". See WWM re goldfish varieties for pix>
4. There seems to be no consensus about what temperature to keep a
goldfish at. From wwm website, I see that it is okay not to have a
heater if the temperature does not drop below 18 degree Celsius. I stay
in southern India, and the temperature is usually between 15-25 (right
now it is 21). I do have a spare heater. Should I install it? What
temperature?
<I would install the heater (to limit how low/fast the temp. drops. I'd
set it for 72 F/22 C>
5. Should I get her friends? How many do they school with?
<I'd wait on adding other life here... Do read on WWM re goldfish
compatibility re suitable tankmates in the meanwhile>
Thanks.
Shami.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Need help for Goldfish (Fantail) 9/4/13
Hey Bob,
<Hi Shami>
Thanks! From your answers, it seems that over the time she will get
better.
<Ah yes>
I am just hoping that I will be able to switch on the filter throughout
the day soon.
<Understood>
It is always nice talking to you.
<Cheers my/our friend. BobF>
Shami.
|
|
Need help for Goldfish (Fantail) Neale's go
9/4/13
Hello friends,
<Shami,>
I rescued a goldfish (Fantail?) last week, who was kept in a tiny bowl.
I have a spare tank of ~150L that I cleaned up and put the goldfish in
it. I also have a small power head filter that I installed in the tank.
Although, the filter is pretty small and I have tried to minimize the
flow (by adding carbon strips at the inlet/outlets), she has a difficult
time in swimming. She seems to be losing the balance and gets sucked
towards the filter. So, I keep the filter on for an hour in the morning
and then another hour in the evening. I change ~20% water every day.
<Hmm... the problem with switching off filters is that the bacteria will
die. So either have a filter running 24 hours a day, or else replace
with a more suitable unit, e.g., an air-powered filter.>
I think she is unwell, because her poop is clear (transparent) with
(sometimes) bubbles in it, and floats at the top of the tank.
I kept her on fast for two days and then gave her a couple of tiny
blanched peas, which she ate with not much interest. I have kept her on
minimum diet (max 1 or 1.5 peas) once a day, but she seems to be pooping
a lot. For the past few days, I have observed long strings in the poop
(not clear/transparent but like a thin long white cotton thread).
Based on my limited experience and online searches, I think she may
either be constipated, or may have internal parasites. I am attaching a
picture, but I am not sure it that will help.
My questions are:
1. Most of the times, she sits under the filter and does not move much.
I do not think this is normal. Is it?
<If a fish is weak, yes, it will rest somewhere with gentle current.>
2. She has been fasting for 4 days now. How long before I stop feeding
her peas, and start with Hikari (I have Hikari for cichlids).
<I would not worry about feeding for at least two weeks. Concentrate on
swimming and balance. Peas are a good food for Goldfish, at least in the
short term. Apart from peas, add Epsom salt... 1-3 teaspoons per 5
gallons/20 litres.>
3. Since I have never kept goldfishes before, I feel the stomach is
bloated. But then looking at other pictures, they all seems to have
bigger bellies. Can you see anything wrong from the picture?
<No, looks okay. No sign of Dropsy anyway.>
4. There seems to be no consensus about what temperature to keep a
goldfish at. From wwm website, I see that it is okay not to have a
heater if the temperature does not drop below 18 degree Celsius. I stay
in southern India, and the temperature is usually between 15-25 (right
now it is 21). I do have a spare heater. Should I install it? What
temperature?
<Ambient temperature in India will be fine, provided the tank is not in
direct sunlight (anything over 30 C would be stressful).>
5. Should I get her friends? How many do they school with?
<For now, keep singly. Once moving about and happy, yes, Goldfish do
well with similar breeds (mixing breeds can be tricky because some
stronger varieties bully weaker varieties).>
Thanks.
Shami.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Need help for Goldfish (Fantail) 9/4/13
Neale,
<Shami,>
Thanks for the answers! Actually, yesterday Bob Fenner replied, too. He
suggested that I can start with the feeding immediately. So I fed her
mere two (2) pellets of Hikari this morning, and when came back from
office, I found her having hard time to maintain balance. Her tail seems
to be going up (due to gases?), while the head remains low. After few
hours, she settled down in a corner and is slightly stable now.
<I personally wouldn't feed, or at least would stick with plants; a
clump of "pondweed" (e.g., Elodea) or even blanched lettuce would be
good.>
I think, as you already said, I will have to stop feeding her anything
for next few days. I will add the Epsom salt over the weekend, when I am
at home to observe her.
<Real good. It's a very safe treatment.>
And, yes, I need to install an air filter (I think I have one somewhere
in the storage). But if I do decide to install the heater, what
temperature should it be working at?
<Goldfish do well between 18-25 degrees C, so in warm homes the use of
heaters is not needed.>
Thanks again.
Shami.
<Most welcome, Neale.>
|
Fish sitting on bottom; GF rdg.
7/24/13
Hi!! I have 2 goldfish. They have been
together for close to 10 years, and currently are being kept in a
50 gallon tank and have been in it for 6+ years.
Recently one of them has started to sit on the bottom
of the tank, clamping it's fins, sucking in tank water, only leaving the
bottom to suck air from the top of the tank. Sometimes she goes
into a log in the
tank and doesn't come out the entire day. The other fish is not
acting any differently. I change the water monthly.
<I'd change some every week. See WWM re maintenance of GF systems>
The chemistry strip I ran was normal for nitrates,
<... need real numbers>
nitrites, and pH. I don't know if I need to add more oxygen?
<Doubtful... as the one fish is fine; both would be mal-affected>
I have 3 air stones but with the way she is gasping in the water, I don't
know if that is enough.
<Not a gas-diffusion issue; but very likely water quality. See above re
water changes>
When she does go to the top, she seems to have trouble staying upright,
tending to lean to a either side. I have only been feeding
them goldfish pellets twice a week
<Poor... should be fed at least once daily; better more frequently,
small/er amounts...>
since they never seem hungry. Any suggestions to help her get
back to her normal fishy self would be very much appreciated :)
Thanks,
Amy
<Are you able to use the search feature on WWM? Bob Fenner>
Re: Fish sitting on bottom, GF
8/22/13
I took your suggestions and looked around some more on your website as
well as increasing my water changes.
<Ah good>
I did see that the original tests that I did showed the NO3 at
40 mg/L, which is at the high end of normal.
<Yes; I'd keep this under 20 ppm. Means of doing so are gone over and
over on WWM>
NO2 was 0 mg/L, GH was 150ppm, KH was 180 ppm, pH was 7.5 and ammonia
was 0mg/L.
<These values are fine/good>
With the more frequent water changes...I have started to do a 15%
change twice a week in the hopes of lowering the No3...
<I'd increase the percentage by twice, some 30%; and look into other
methods of reducing [NO3]>>
after 4 water changed I got the NO3 down to 20, NO2 stays at 0, as does
the ammonia.
<Ahh, very good indeed>
I have continued with the more frequent water changes, but the NO3 seems
to have stalled around 20 on the dip strip.
<Mmm, do see WWM re pH testing. Am not a fan of strips. A simple liquid
colorimetric assay would be much better... more accurate, useful>
No matter how little or frequently I feed them, they don't show any
interest in eating, so I am removing food after 5 minutes every time.
<Good>
The fish does not seem to be improving at all, in fact, just this
morning I noticed that she seems to have gotten significantly fatter
seemingly over night, to the point where her scales are
starting to stick out.
<Patience; these "things take time"... You might read re the use of
Epsom Salt... very safe, quite often effective>
Up until this point, I was going on the assumption that the water
quality was poor and the water changes would eventually lead to
improvement, but this does not seem to be what is happening.
Thank you!
Amy
<Do stay in touch; write back w/ your questions, concerns; and further
observations. Bob Fenner>
Oranda with curved spine(RMF, thoughts?) <<Same as before...
env., genetic>> 3/2/13
Hi Crew:
<Hello again Gina,>
My 10 year old Oranda has slowly developed a curvature to her spine- it
is close to the base of her tail and it causes her to preferentially
swim in circles in the direction of the curve. It is a gentle curve- not
an injury and has been developing over a year. My water is as follows:
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 10
PH ranges throughout the year from 8.5 to 9.2
<This is very high… likely a factor. Goldfish like hard water to be
sure, 10-25 degrees dH is fine, but the pH should be no higher than 8.5,
and ideally around 7.5-8.0. Is there any way you can mix your tap water
with RO or rainwater, maybe 50/50?>
RedOx is waayyy too high at 356
I feed the fish home made gel food with stabilized vitamin C, Spirulina,
carrot, spinach, kale, red pepper, zucchini, shelled peas, garlic, yam,
salmon fillet, acidophilus powder, kelp powder. All veg are organic and
are steamed in bottled water then blended and then vitamins, gelatin
etc.. added.
<In and of itself, organic doesn't mean a good diet, but the range of
foods you're offering is very wide, so I think we can rule out dietary
shortcomings, a very common reason for developmental abnormalities.>
I have a probe in the water to ground stray voltage. All the traditional
causes do not seem to apply. The fish also has floatation issues but
only immediately after she eats- she starts to float right away and is
back to normal about half an hour later.
<Which points the finger here at changes to the shape of the digestive
tract and/or position of the swim bladder brought about by the spinal
curvature. As food moves along the digestive tract, centre of mass
changes, while centre of buoyancy stays constant, so the orientation of
the fish will change.>
I can't find anything that seems a likely cause unless I am not
providing adequate nutrition with the home made food or there is a
persistent bacterial infection. The fish does have a very mushy belly
near the vent- I have tried 10 days worth of Baytril intraperitoneal
injections which did nothing but stress me out every time I had to
inject the fish (the fish was fine with it all). I use home made food
because the fish is so large that I can't find a suitable sized sinking
pellet. Any advice or suggestions would be very much appreciated.
<There really isn't any advice here. Spinal deformities are impossible
to treat. Indeed, you may not need to treat, assuming the fish is
otherwise happy, e.g., can feed adequately and doesn't get picked on by
its tankmates. Maintain good water quality, ensure a good diet, and
generally keep an eye on this fish for any signs of suffering.>
I religiously maintain the tank with 2 x weekly water changes (about 25%
with Prime treated water that has say for a couple days). I have a
serious problem with brown algae- not sure why but all 4 of my tanks are
rife with it and I have trouble controlling it. I am not sure if this
ties in but I thought I would mention it just in case….
<Algae doesn't normally cause health problems for fish, but rampant
algae can indicate problems with water quality and/or water chemistry.
Review these, and act accordingly. Given how high the pH is in your
tanks, I do suspect water chemistry is a factor. Can't comment on the
specifics without at least knowing your general hardness (degrees dH)
and ideally the carbonate hardness (degrees KH) as well.>
Thank you!
<Most welcome, Neale.>
Re: Oranda with curved spine (RMF, thoughts?)<<>> 3/10/13
<<The usual: genetics likely, perhaps pathogenic disease, nutrition...>>
Thank you Neale- great to hear from you- your advice is always
invaluable!
<Thanks for the kind words.>
As a matter of fact I do have an Vertex Aquaristik 100 gallon-per-day RO
unit available- it is not operational but after your reply I promptly
ordered a new membrane and cartridges and just installed them tonight.
<I see.>
When I used it before, it was only reducing the pH to about 7.8 at best
(I guess that it better than what it is at right now).
<And well within the comfort zone for Goldfish, which do best between pH
7 and 8.>
I had also purchased a pressure tank that was specifically made to hold
RO water. I stopped using it as the membrane became damaged and to be
honest, I was not sure how to properly use RO in a freshwater tank. I
had been mixing it at a 50/50 ratio with tap water (which brought the pH
down to about 8).
<Which is fine and usually safe.>
I had some concerns about the aggressiveness of RO water and was not
sure why my pH was still so high after filtering.
<Removing some of the dissolved minerals rarely lowers the pH below 7,
what it tends to do is lower the pH from 8 or 8.5 down towards pH 7.5.
If you remove all the minerals you should get around pH 7, but stably
acidifying the water to, say, pH 6.5, is a whole other thing. You need
to add an "acid buffer" for that, and unless you're breeding soft water
fish, it's not worth the effort. Halving the hardness of VERY hard water
is, on the other hand, a very good idea, even if the pH doesn't seem to
go all that low.>
I used a 50/50 mix of RO to tap as I wasn't certain if it was safe to
use straight RO.
<Never use straight RO water. Always mix with some hard tap water unless
you have the knowledge and skills to add appropriate soft water
buffering salts (often sold as Amazon buffer or Discus buffer).>
The high pH of the RO filtered water seems to suggest that the water is
still quite mineralized but without sending a sample to the lab I don't
know if the proper minerals are present.
<Indeed.>
I currently sit my tank change water in a 205 litre holding tank that is
made of food-grade plastic but it is not safe for RO water. I tried to
find a 205 litre container that was RO safe but they would be a special
construct and very expensive. I believe that remineralizing the water
would make it safe to sit in the container, but again, I am not sure if
this is even necessary.
<Storing RO water in food-safe containers should not be a problem. Or,
as Bob would say, "read, don't write…"
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/rostorage.htm
This has been gone into many times, here and elsewhere.>
Regarding remineralization, I have Wondershells and Seachem Replenish
that I purchased along with the RO unit for the purpose of
remineralizing the water if needed.
<Wondershells are pointless if you [a] already have moderately hard to
hard water and [b] are keeping hard water fish. All they are is lumps of
calcium carbonate that slowly dissolve, raising the carbonate hardness
(KH). If your KH is above, say, 5 degrees KH, this isn't needed.>
I don't know currently the degrees dH of my tap water as my test kit is
not working for some reason- I added 50 drops of the reagent and no
colour change.
<Seems to be you have no general hardness. Do try again though, or have
your retailer test a water sample for you.>
The last time I tested (about a year ago) it was 9 degrees. The KH of my
tap water is 6 to 7.
<So, moderate carbonate hardness; fine for Goldfish.>
I have been using Phosguard to try to reduce phosphorus in the water- I
suspect my algae problem may be in part to the homemade food as it
breaks down in the tank quickly if the fish misses a piece and this is
one of the reasons I do twice weekly water changes with gravel
vacuuming. I bought a RedOx meter which shows a reading of about 350- my
admittedly vague understanding of RedOx and goldfish is that ideal RedOx
is in the order of -110. In short, I know my water chemistry is off and
I think that I have the components I need to correct it but my know-how
is shaky! I am going to flush out the new filters and then I will test
the kH and pH of the RO water- if it needs to be remineralized I would
be interested to know what products you suggest and if I am on the right
track with the RO water.
<Would suggest no products… just reading. Start here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwh2oquality.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwh2oqualfaqs1.htm
…and follow the links.>
Gina
PS you gave me advice a couple years ago on a small, weak little black
moor and I am pleased to report that he is still very much alive and
quite a bit larger now!
<Ah, good to know! Neale.>
Re: Oranda with curved spine (Bob, am I being unfair to Goldies?)
6/30/13
Hi Neale:
<Gina,>
Flash forward to the end of June- the Oranda is still upright and is
still voraciously hungry but half way through the Baytril treatments she
began to pinecone (that was about a month ago). I was surprised that
she developed Dropsy in the middle of treatment, especially
since the Baytril had worked to stop her from bobbing around upside down
at the top of the tank. The vet ordered some Oxytetracycline to try- one
intramuscular injection every week for three weeks. It helps for 2 days
after the injection (the scales flatten and the swelling reduces
noticeably) but then the Ascites returns.
Her gills are still a healthy red colour. Oddly enough her wen has been
growing like crazy the last few months- she looks great except for the
swelling and the scales.
I am armed with 1/2 dozen bottles of clove oil if she shows signs of
being in pain (which I assume will translate into not eating and being
inactive) but I am heartbroken at the thought of euthanizing this very
much-loved 10 year old fish.
I have the tank temperature at 30 degrees and I reduced the water level,
added a second Eheim canister filter and another powerhead. I have 1
tablespoon per 10 gallons of Epsom salt in the tank. I'm not sure if
this is in any way relevant but I don't have any aquarium lighting
(haven't had for about 8 months since I had a fire scare with a
canopy-style light removed them from service in all my tanks): I am
saving for better and safer lights.
Right now the fish is not on antibiotics as her last Oxytetracycline
injection was a week ago. I have gel food with Kanamycin and
Metronidazole in it but have not used it since I am worried about their
effect on the kidneys. I have been changing 50% of the tank water twice
a week.
Have I really tried everything?
<Yes. I think you are doing all you can. At some point it becomes a
cost/benefit calculation, and if the fish remains sickly, and especially
if it isn't interested in feeding or socialising, it may well be time to
"call it a day".>
I am having a hard time trying to reconcile the fact that I am probably
going to lose her in the next month or so and knowing that I have done
everything I can will help.
Thank you, Neale:
Gina
<Sorry we can't offer any silver bullets here Gina; do think you're
doing your best for this fish, especially with regard to help from the
vet. Hope things improve though! Regards, Neale.>
Sick Goldfish 2/22/13
<More than 3 megs in image... why?>
Hello,
I was wondering if you could help me or direct me to an article that will
help. I have been searching for an answer since Saturday without luck. I
have two Shubunkin fish in a 60 gallon tank. I have had
them for only two years and they go in my 75 gallon pond in the summer. The
60 gallon has been running for 7 months and it reads 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites
and <5ppm nitrates.
<Good>
The canister filter is made for up to 100 gallons, there is gravel on the
bottom, a bubble makers, silk plants and driftwood in the tank. (Please see
attached picture of better times)
<Looks very nice>
I change 15 gallons of water out every Saturday and vacuum half of the
gravel. After last Saturday's water change I noticed one of the fish
acting strange. His fins were close to his body and he was not as energetic
as usual. I recently started feeding them spectrum brand food for goldfish,
<An excellent food. Is what I use for my fancies>
but have been feeding them blanched lettuce, cucumbers and peas since
Sunday. Two days ago he started hanging at the bottom of the tank. He comes
up to eat and sometimes for a swim. In these swims he bangs his head against
the tank and acts erratic. Do you have any advice?
<Mmm, to be patient; keep on the schedule you describe. I suspect that maybe
this one fish has "swallowed a bug" that may have fallen into the tank... Or
is "just going through a phase". At any length, due to the other fish being
fine, and the description of your water quality, system, and maintenance
routine, I doubt there is something overall wrong w/ the environment here>
Also, is there an effective way to keep my 60 gallon cycled in the summer
months when the fish are in the pond?
<Yes... leave all gear running, add a pinch of dried food, a few pellets,
once a week to the system>
Thank you so much for your time and for this extremely useful website.
You have all been my heroes on more than one occasion.
Michelle
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>
|
Re: Sick Goldfish 2/22/13
Patients happens to be my middle name.
<Hopefully you mean/t patience; but an excellent trait/quality>
Thank you for your advice, it is appreciated.
<Certainly welcome. BobF>
Re: Sick Goldfish
Yes, patience indeed. When my fish is better, I will work on my grammar. :)
Take care, Michelle
<Thank you, B>
Re: Sick Goldfish
3/1/13
Hello again,
My goldfish friend didn't make it. He died five days ago and now the
other goldfish is going through the exact same thing. He is Hanging out
at the bottom most of the day and night. He currently has his head
buried in between two rocks. Any suggestions?
<Only further speculations, sans data...>
If not, do you think euthanizing him is the humane thing to do?
<Only you can decide>
Watching the last one die was painful. It probably wasn't a walk in the
park for him either.
When he dies, how do I ensure that the tank is safe for the new fish
that I put in there?
<The best, bio-assay, is what you have been doing>
Thank you for your time,
Michelle
<Something may have been introduced here, in this system, that is
toxic... Best to have you read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/GFEnvDisF8.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Sick Goldfish 3/2/13
Thank you for the link. The tank is empty now, but I did see two silver
worm like creatures swimming around in there. I will investigate before
I add more fish.
<Ahh, know that most of these worms, worm-like animals are innocuous. I
would not over react, use a vermifuge>
Take care,
Michelle
<And you, BobF>
|
Need advice... data, reading...
1/16/13
I have a 13 year old comet goldfish that is sitting at bottom of
20 gallon tank,
<... this volume is likely too small...>
normally he swims around in morning for food, today he isn't, I changed
out some water all parameters are good,
<... meaning what? Need values, not subjective evaluations>
always has had low hardness, this is nothing unusual, but the rest are
good, should I put salt or Epsom salt or what in tank, should I feed a
pea?
<... Where to start here? Need data... let's have you read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/GFEnvDisF8.htm
and the linked files above to give you insight as to what we're looking
for; the common mistakes (env.) made by folks keeping (esp. comet)
goldfish. Bob Fenner>
Please let me know
Thanks
Cathy Hart
Re: Need advice 1/16/13
the water test are normal ranges,
<?>
this is what I meant, I did notice that on top of his body near his
dorsal fin ,there are tiny black spots that look like if you was to take
his scale off, it would be on the scale, no where else on body, just
there, look gray under light and darker without light, about 4 of them,
what could this be and what do I do
<.... don't write: read. B>
Re: Need advice 1/16/13
I need help, I try to read those on your site, I cant understand what I
am reading and a lot of time I keep reading and it is not anything to do
with my situation , what exactly should I read?? T
<... where you were referred initially...>
help, GF... lost again 1/17/13
would someone please help me with my goldfish I cant find anything to
read I need some answers I sent previous mail about how he has been all
day he
usually starts morning by swimming around looking for food today he just
sit in corner I did several water changes at one point I added tsp salt
<Why?>
then removed it, I changed one filter he list to one side when he gets
up to swim swims okay but has list what can I do to help him, I fed him
and he
ate
thanks cathy
<Hello Cathy. Did you read the e-mail I sent you last time around? We do
need information about your aquarium. Almost certainly the problem is
with
his environment, so without knowing tank size, water quality and water
chemistry we can't pin down the precise problem. Meantime, read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/goldfish101art.htm
Most problems with Goldfish come from keeping them in an aquarium that's
too small for them. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: help
I have read this,
<So what differences are there between your aquarium and the aquarium we
recommended? What about differences in care, diet, water chemistry…?>
I couldn't get any answers about my problem so I had to pay 38 dollars
for a fish expert to tell me about nothing,
<?!?>
she said it sounds like it has black Ich, has 4 coin head size spots
between head and top fin,
<Hmm… no. Let's be clear. Black Spot Disease is caused by parasites that
normally live in ponds and require animals such as birds to complete
their life cycle. So while you can buy Goldfish with Black Spot Disease,
it cures itself pretty much every time once the Goldfish are moved
indoors. Black Spot Disease is like Whitespot in appearance, except the
spots are black. The spots are teeny-tiny, smaller than salt grains.
What you're describing sounds more like ammonia burns. These are
irregular black, grey or dark greenish-grey patches on Goldfish. The
patches are of variable size, though typically fingernail-size.
Obviously ammonia burns are caused by ammonia in the water, so wherever
you see ammonia burns on Goldfish, you're looking at Goldfish that are
kept in a tank that's too small and/or under-filtered. Fix the
environment, and the ammonia burns will heal in time. No other treatment
is needed unless the wounds become infected, in which case Finrot or
Fungus are common problems.>
also swims funny or sits in corner, I have always told you he has been
in 20 gallon tank alone and you tell me no,
<We/I don't remember the size of every aquarium from everyone who
e-mails me! That'd be thousands of tanks! In any event: 20 gallons is
too small. Upgrade or rehome this fish for something suitable for 20
gallons, such as Danios.>
he has always been fine in this,
<He was smaller before. As he grows, he produces more ammonia, needs
more oxygen and acidifies the aquarium faster between water changes.
Eventually a tipping point is reached, and a tank that worked when your
Goldfish was a youngster stops being safe or viable any longer. Nothing
new here. The vast majority of Goldfish kept in tanks 20 gallons or
smaller die prematurely, and I'm meaning something like 95% of them, if
not more. Virtually all those unfortunately Goldfish "flushed" after a
few months, couple of years come from tanks 20 gallons or smaller. No
science here, and no need for you to experiment with a 20-gallon tank.
You need 30+ US gallons for Goldfish, or if you're
stuck with 20 gallons, choose suitable fish like Danios, Platies and
Corydoras.>
swims well no problems, he don't see so well so he doesn't seem to mind
it, I clean 3 gallons out every 4 days and only add stress coat, he eats
pellets and some flakes, water is good except for hardness but has
always been like this, something else is wrong, I know how my fish acts.
Tey told me to use either jungle parasite clear or preferred tetra
lifeguard, I am not sure which one to use, don't really feel happy with
what they said, black Ich, how would it get that??
Thanks again
Cathy
<Hope this clears things up. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: help
I must not have gotten emai about needing all that info, I just need to
know how to help a fish that is listing when he swims, how to tell if
its constipation, swim bladder or parasites, like the just answer told
me to treat??? if any of these how do I treat them, I cant find that in
your site, specific answers, I am about blind from reading for over 18
hours already searching for an answer
<Please read my previous email/emails.
The problem is the environment.
Don't spend money on "fish experts" or pointless medicines; get a bigger
aquarium with adequate, appropriate filtration. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: help...
I had someone tell me with a photo that didn't even look like my fish
problem, that my fish has black Ich, I did many water changes last night
until 3 am, he seems okay for now, my test kits might not be working
right and at one point I couldn't even tell if the ammonia was up or in
normal range.
<Ammonia is a tricky test kit. It should be zero, and ordinarily,
anything above zero is bad news. The higher above zero, the quicker your
fish will get sick and die. But ammonia test kits can return "false
positives" if you use certain water conditioners. So, I'd test a sample
of fresh tap water with water conditioner added, and then aquarium
water, and see if they're different. If the aquarium water has a higher
ammonia reading than the tap water, that means the tank is overstocked
and/or under-filtered. In any case, I recommend you use a nitrite (with
an "i", rather than nitrate with an "a") test kit either instead of
ammonia or as well as ammonia. Again, any non-zero nitrite reading is
bad.>
I wanted to ask another thing, Since he cant see well, I take sinking
pellets after soaking and put them on the glass part of tank, (I move
the gravel) I guide him to this area with a net, seems to always hit
head area, could this be what might have caused these tiny black marks
that look as they are on the scales , almost as if you could take them
off if removing scale??
<Not sure I understand your question. Don't try to physically remove
anything from your fish. Goldfish can find food perfectly well in opaque
water, so blindness isn't much/any disability to them.>
Sorry for so many questions, I cant find anything about this is your
pages
Cathy
<Welcome, Neale.>
Re: help
your kind and I am seeing ammonia now, never have before , don’t know
what happened, he is old, wouldn’t he be as big as he is gonna be, after
13 yrs or so??
<Yes, pretty much. Fish grow continuously, from birth to death, but the
rate at which they grow slows down dramatically as they age. Goldfish
grow quickly for the first couples years, then growth slows down a lot,
and they're about as big as they're going to be within 3-5 years
depending on water temperature (they grow faster when kept warm). For an
indoor "fancy" Goldfish like a Black Moor or Fantail, around 20 cm/8
inches is a good size for a specimen kept indoors.>
I am thinking something happened to biological filter, I changed them
both out too soon in between and clean the gravel everytime I clean
water, every 4 days, do you think I will be recycling again after 13 yrs
in this tank?
<If filter is running and otherwise working normally, it shouldn't need
to be "cycled" a second time. Give the filter media a decent rinse in a
bucket of aquarium water, and maybe replace up to half the filter media
if such media is so dirty it can't be cleaned. Cheers, Neale.>
Test kit
Wow this is interesting, I did what you said with the test kits, got
water
from tap with stress coat in it and water from tank, the water from tap
showed ammonia
<Not uncommon. Ammonia is in many tap water supplies, especially in
rural
areas; check with your water supplier for details and normal amounts.
Chloramine can deliver positive ammonia results too. Use a good water
conditioner that neutralises BOTH ammonia and Chloramine (alongside the
usual ammonia and copper) and you can normally ignore both of these
contaminants.>
and now water in tank is back normal, the nitrite is 0
<If nitrite is zero in the aquarium, and you have a biological filter,
then
that's very good news, and suggests the aquarium is basically sound.>
I have a well, what on earth would there be ammonia in it from,
<Ammonia in drinking water comes from many sources, but run-off from
farms
is a/the major one.>
and does using stress coat cause ammonia, this water was taken from a
gallon jug I had used some to put in tank, it already had stress coat in
it, it had sit overnight, not actually straight from tap but was when I
put
it in last night, it is tap water that had a bit of stress coat in it,
but
still am I adding ammonia to this tank when I change water?
<If you treat with a water conditioner that neutralises tap water
ammonia,
then you can largely ignore this source of ammonia. Still, it's a good
plan
to treat this water, and let it sit an hour or more before use so that
the
ammonia can be fully neutralised (read the instructions on the water
conditioner). I'd also suggest more, smaller water changes so that any
exposure to ammonia is minimised. So two 10% water changes a week rather
than one 20% change. Cheers, Neale.>
Ammonia
Incredible, I just did another ammonia test on straight tap water (I
have a well) and it read high ammonia, the test with the stress coat
wasn’t as bad as straight from tap, am I putting water in tank with
levels of ammonia this high, what can I do,I have been changing out
water for two days in tank, oh I am scared now!
<Do see previous messages. Cheers, Neale.>
amquel
regarding the messages I sent about water and ammonia, I do have a
bottle
of Amquel liquid, I have had it a year or two, I don't see expiration
date
on it, should I use it instead of stress coat to remove ammonia from my
tap
water? Or just leave it go as is, the tank water showed 0 and the tap
water
shows ammonia?? I don't know how long amquel can last do you?? I bought
it
a year or so ago?? Can it be used in tank water if there is already
stress
coat in there?
<AmQuel is a good product for this sort of thing. If you've stored in a
cool, dark place it should be fine to use. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Test kit
I have dr tims one and only in tank along with stress coat, can I put
some
prime in there too
<Prime is the ONLY product of these three you MUST use every time. It's
a
water conditioner. One-and-Only is supposedly a bacteria supplement; it
probably doesn't work nearly as well as marketing suggests (most of
these
non-refridgerated bacteria products seem pretty unreliable).
Stress Coat
is a useful aid when fish are damaged or, like yours, suffering ammonia
burns. But once the fish is healthy, it needn't be used.>
it is still once again showing a bit of ammonia, I can tell when the
fish
don't swim, I check and it is up .25
<The aim is zero ammonia. Don't feed while ammonia isn't zero. Improve
filtration and increase aquarium size. Frequent water changes can help,
but
long-term, it's all about filtration and aquarium size. Cheers, Neale.>
bio sponge 1/18./2013
Hello again, I have an idea to remove this ammonia in the tank I changed
out filters , something caused this to happen and fish is letting me
know, I have 2 twenty gallon tanks on top of each other, on the bottom
are two smaller comet goldfish , no ammonia and a loaded bio sponge, can
I take it and switch it with the top one I have been talking about with
one fish in it, his sponge is not so loaded so to speak, will there be
any problems caused if I did this? Thank you again Cathy <You
can remove up to half of the mature biological filter media from an
established aquarium and not cause problems. Remove filter media can
indeed be used to "jump start" an immature or otherwise inadequate
biological filter. The risk, of course, is transferring parasites from
the donor aquarium to the recipient, so don't do this if the donor
aquarium has problems of its own. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: bio sponge 1/19./2013
Thank you for all the help Neale, your kind and helpful especially when
I need it most! Have a good weekend Cathy
<Glad to help. Good luck, Neale.
Re: Test kit 1/18/2013
Okay, I will use the prime, however I have had it for a year or so,
does it expire?? I have a bit of stress coat in tank now, will it be
okay if I still put prime in there, I have found my tap water has high
ammonia in it!! Scary
<Like most household chemicals, if the water conditioner is kept in a
cool, dark place it should be safe to use for at least a year, if not
longer. Cheers, Neale.>
Spots 1/18./2013
Okay one more thing and I will try my best not to bother you anymore
for now! I got a close look again tonight at my fish, I was explaining how
he had these pin head sized black dots along top between head and fin, was
told it is black Ich!?? <Black Ick disease is exclusively
marine. If you have black spots on a freshwater fish, it's usually on pond
fish infested with parasites that normally cause no harm and die out
eventually. Of course if the environment is poor then any parasites, even
normally harmless ones, can allow a fish to become weakened enough for
secondary infections to set in.>
Anyhow I looked again tonight, he has some more and a few are a tiny
bit bigger, in same area, now upon looking closer with what you explained to
me about the scales, it does look more under the scales, what could this be,
they are not big round spots, like I see in photos of ammonia burn Thank You
again Cathy
<Do review the last few e-mails sent re: ammonia burns versus freshwater
(pond fish) "Black Spot Disease" and act accordingly. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Spots 1/19./2013
Here is a photo of the spots on my goldfish, can you tell what it is, he
is better acting but seems weak when he goes to eat he sorta leans over
Cathy
<Does look more like ammonia burns or simply a "change" in colour --
many non-pedigree Goldfish develop bronze-green patches as they age,
somewhat like their wild ancestors. In any event, not Black Spot Disease.
Cheers, Neale.>
|
|
bio sponge 1/18./2013
Hello again, I have an idea to remove this ammonia in the tank I changed
out filters , something caused this to happen and fish is letting me
know, I have 2 twenty gallon tanks on top of each other, on the bottom
are two smaller comet goldfish , no ammonia and a loaded bio sponge, can
I take it and switch it with the top one I have been talking about with
one fish in it, his sponge is not so loaded so to speak, will there be
any problems caused if I did this? Thank you again Cathy <You
can remove up to half of the mature biological filter media from an
established aquarium and not cause problems. Remove filter media can
indeed be used to "jump start" an immature or otherwise inadequate
biological filter. The risk, of course, is transferring parasites from
the donor aquarium to the recipient, so don't do this if the donor
aquarium has problems of its own. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: bio sponge 1/19./2013
Thank you for all the help Neale, your kind and helpful especially when
I need it most! Have a good weekend Cathy
<Glad to help. Good luck, Neale.
Re: Test kit 1/18/2013
Okay, I will use the prime, however I have had it for a year or so,
does it expire?? I have a bit of stress coat in tank now, will it be
okay if I still put prime in there, I have found my tap water has high
ammonia in it!! Scary
<Like most household chemicals, if the water conditioner is kept in a
cool, dark place it should be safe to use for at least a year, if not
longer. Cheers, Neale.>
two test... Folks who won't read, help themselves...chatting
1/21/13
Hello there, I need some help again, I did some test on different water
sources, I did tap shows ammonia, I did water treated with stress coat
and
sit over night, ammonia, then I did tank again ammonia 0,25, I did
ANOTHER
tank I have 2 comet goldfish in and it is 0 ammonia, Wow don't know what
to
do, I took the loaded sponge from good tank a few days ago and traded it
in
bad tank, I added 2 capfuls of dr tims one and only I had overnighted to
me! I am at a loss here, certainly must be why my bigger fish at top
tank
is not acting good, Please help, I did 8-9 gallon water changes since
last
wed, and am now afraid to do more, I had a bit of prime in a few days
ago,
don't even know if I can use prime and stress coat together,
<Yes.>
I have to help him somehow! I added extra air stone , at a loss now!
Thanks so much
Cathy
<Put the test kits down. I suspect you're panicking more than you need
to,
and the ammonia test kit is just adding to your confusion. Let's assume
the
ammonia in the tap water is neutralised by the Prime (which is what
should
happen if used properly). Stop feeding the fish. Do 20-25% water changes
every 1-2 days. Carry on like this for a week: no food, but regular
water
changes. Then do a nitrite (not ammonia) test for each aquarium you
have.
Dollars to donuts the nitrite value will be at or close to zero, which
means things are either okay or close to okay. Start feeding now, very
little, a flake as big as the eyeball of each fish is all it needs, once
per day. Do this for a week, doing your nitrite test every 1-2 days. If
nitrite is zero or close to zero, you can spread out your water changes
to
every 3-4 days, and the following week, slightly increase the feeding,
and
spread out water changes to once a week. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Test kit
one more thing in regard to last message, I let the test tube sit with
solution and water from good tank a bit longer then needed, it did turn
to
0.25 does leaving them longer make any difference??
<Refer to the instructions that came with your test kit. It's been years
since I used an ammonia test kit, and I certainly don't know the brand
you're using (and it likely isn't sold in the UK anyway).>
I added another capful of one and only to bad tank, I don't know now
what
tank is the bad tank!!
Thanks
Cathy
<Welcome, Neale.>
Re: two test
okay, now I have a good plan, will do this, yes the test kits are
driving
me nuts, they are api test kits, I tested nitrite a few days ago and it
was 0.
<Which is good news. Nitrite test kits are generally less likely to
mislead
the aquarist than ammonia test kits.>
still gonna do as you say, so it is okay to do this much water changing
even though I have been doing some small ones every day for a week??
<Yes. Water changes will of course remove medicines added, but most
medicines last about 24 hours per dose before the filter removes them
anyway. So if you add medicine to your aquarium, do so AFTER any water
changes, and leave the next water change until the following day.
Otherwise, water changes do no harm -- ever -- if you keep water
temperature and water chemistry about the same. After all, a fish in a
river is swimming in new water all the time! Remember, the "good
bacteria"
we rely upon as fishkeepers live in the filter, not the water.>
Is it okay to use all this with one and only that is already in tank??
Prime, one and only and stress coat??
<The One & Only is unlikely to do much good or bad either way, so don't
worry about it. To some extent, the same is true for the Stress Coat,
though it may help your ailing Goldfish a bit. The Prime is the one to
take
seriously because you tap water contains ammonia (as well as chlorine
and
likely chloramine) so use that precisely and exactly as described on the
bottle.>
Thanks for the ideas, gonna give them a go!
<Good luck, Neale.>
please be there
its 1 30 am here and I am desparetely trying to save my goldfish I was
mailing you about, I have the tap water with ammonia in it and I don't
know
what else to do now,
<Have written, explained.>
he is starting to swim fast and as he does he goes to his side a lot,
what
can I do??
<Do nothing. Don't panic. The fundamental problem as I've told
you about a
dozen times now is the aquarium is too small. Goldfish rarely
do well or
live long in small tanks. For now, direct your energy into planning for
a
30-gallon aquarium, and in the meantime, concentrate on making regular
small water changes. Add the Prime to neutralise ammonia (and chlorine
and
chloramine). Make sure the temperature of new water is about the same as
the old water.>
Please help me I cant think anymore
<Which is not helpful. Read my messages and the articles you
were directed
to. Then think about what you've learned, and act (or not)
accordingly.
Panicking won't help. I'm off to work now, so you'll be on your own for
the
next few hours! Neale.>
Re: please be there 1/21/13
My old fish died , up all night trying to help him , I suppose I killed
him
in trying, it is now 6 am here and cleaning up, I hope I did right, I
cant
think what might have happened, the other tank has same ammonia as top
and
always has now that I think about it, I don't think ammonia killed him,
<Non-zero ammonia levels, if untreated, can/will kill. But if nitrite
levels were zero, and you know the ammonia comes from the tap water,
then
treating with suitable water conditioner should remove this risk
factor.>
cant imagine what the black marks and only marks he had on him would
have
been,
<Me neither.>
thanks to Neale and everyone else for your help, you don't know how
important it is to be able to talk to someone when needed
Thanks again
Cathy
<Most welcome, Neale.>
re: Question, more chatting re GF, sans reading
- 1/25/13
Hi there,
<Cathy>
After desperately trying to help my large goldfish of 13 yrs or so and
failed.
<Sorry to hear that.>
After he died, I started paying more attention to my smaller common (I
think) not fancy goldfish in the other 20 tank, I changed water today ,
3
gallons,
<Might need to change more. How big were/are the two fish?>
I did have health dept test water for me, they called to day and said I
have .11 ammonia in water,
<Tank or tap?>
My test are still showing 0.25 in my tank, I have a little ammonia
indicator in there says its good, its an API water test kit, The water
people are coming on Monday to see what is wrong and what can be done if
anything,
<Shouldn't have any ammonia in the tank at all.>
most likey first thing will get new softener as this one is 30 yrs old,
My
NITRITES are always 0, does this mean I am okay,
not to worry,
<Not really.>
that the fish might be producing the ammonia or it came from tap and
will
convert and due to water change??
<Either could explain.>
Maybe I do too many, I do them about every 4 days and take out 2.5
gallons
each time.
<No, frequent water changes are beneficial. If anything, I'd say you
aren't
changing enough water. I usually do between a quarter and a third of the
tank volume.>
I add stress coat. I have a well. the thing that bothers me and I was
thinking I have a fish with digestive issues as he always sits at top
looking out toward me but sits up there over where the filter is, not
under
it but in front of it toward front but horizontally on top of water,
sometimes he swims with jerky motion to bottom unless I drop a pea in
there
and all of a sudden he swims like normal looking for the pea,
<Could be an oxygen deficiency. A digestion issue would likely manifest
itself in bloating.>
The concern came when I seen the other going to top a few times after
changing water, I didn't think much of it with the one that is always at
top until the other did it
any suggestions,
<You definitely need to find out where the ammonia is coming from and
address it. Live plants like java moss or java fern might be enough to
absorb 0.25 PPM.>
Thanks
Cathy
<Welcome--Rick>
In reference to last question and problems I am having with ammonia in
tap
water and nitrites 0 but still showing ammonia in tank at 0.25 after
water
change today, I think it is always this reading, but have been doing a
lot
of reading on filters,
<I don't understand what you are reading. How are you doing the
testing?>
I have a 40 whisper on a twenty tank, I also have a very old bio wheel
never changed wheel, but I did notice the flow is slower then it was
years
and years ago.
<It should have a good stable colony of beneficial bacteria to help
convert
the ammonia to nitrate.
Even if I didn't have that biowheel, shouild the rated 40 whisper filter
be
enough for surface agitation along with a 5 inch airstone, does any of
this
have an affect on ammonia in water?
<With the airstone, certainly. Has no impact on ammonia other than as I
described above. - Rick>
Then there is the media from these filters, Here is the record I have of
the changes to them alternately
whisper filter 10/18/12
bio filter 11/5/12
then latest
whisper filter 12/3/12
bio filter 12/28/12
Any thoughts on this, could it be a problem , I thought with established
tank that the last one with just 3 weeks between them would be okay to
do?
Thanks '
Cathy
<I only change my filer media when it physically starts becoming
ineffective. I just rinse it in tank water with every water change and
put
it back. This keeps the bacterial colony at full strength and it costs a
whole lot less, too. You might be causing mini cycle crashes changing
that
often, but you are keeping the manufacturer happy. Shampoo only
says
lather-rinse-repeat because it uses twice as much. - Rick>
would using some ammonia removing zeolite crystals help, I have a little
bag that I got with them I can put them in and hang somewhere in tank??
<As a short-term solution, sure. Drop it into the filter if
there's enough
room, otherwise try to put it somewhere there is current, like under the
waterfall from the filter or above the airstone. Zeolite is not a
long-term
answer, but it will buy you time. - Rick>
<Your questions are easily answered by your simply searching the Net.
Bob Fenner>
Subject: New Life Spectrum
ok, I found the new life spectrum food, Which one is best for old
goldfish,
they have several kinds?? Also what is new life spectr thera a?? can I
use
both of the regular and thera a?? I am glad they have sinking pellets!
Thanks
Goldfish food
Hello I have been on here talking a lot lately of my common or
comet goldfish I have with a loss of my biggest one a week ago, I am
trying to do
my best for the ones I have left, I am feeding them Hikari wheat germ
sinking pellets, and wonder if that might have contributed to some of
the
things I am finding wrong, one is my water I am looking into what to do
about that now, water people coming in on Monday. But as far as food
goes I
was reading that one of you on wet web media feed their fish New Life
Spectrum pelleted and have for decades, Is this a good sinking pellet
food
I can use for goldfish in tanks in the house? Not ponds??
<You can use good quality Goldfish foods both indoors and out. Because
they
digest food slowly when it gets colder, Goldfish outdoors need a low
protein diet in autumn and early spring, compared to regular food in
summer. Goldfish indoors are kept warm all year round, so you can feed
them
what you want, within reason.>
I am concerned with feeding them high protein food and have heard it
might
be hard on older fish, Mine are about 13 yrs old. I know about the
veggies,
and do give them peas,I will slowly introduce them to other veggies, but
for staple food I would like to know what you recommend or feed your
goldfish??
<Hands down the best food is plain old Pondweed, sold in pet shops by
the
bunch. They'll graze on this stuff without any encouragement. Otherwise,
plenty of options. Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/gldfshmalnut.htm
Lots of suggestions!>
Thanks again
Appreciate all the help you've been giving me!
Cathy
<Most welcome, Neale.>
|
Re: Sick Goldfish 12/10/12
I Bob,
Remember me? Well, I got another goldfish two weeks ago, and he
was fine and perky until yesterday when he started sitting on the bottom
of the tank with his top fin clamped down. He will come up to feed
but then goes pack to bottom sitting. I had my water tested at the
pet store and I just tested it again and the readings are the same as
what I gave you before except the Nitrate is 5.0 ppm. I switched
my food to New Life Spectrum and have fed them only a little. Last
night I fed peas, and I have seen the new fish poop, so I don't think he
is constipated. Today I also changed 25% of the water, but it
didn't help. The other Oranda is still doing great, and not piping
as much since the new food. He was so happy to get a new friend. I
really don't want another fish to die and I don't understand what can be
going on. The new fish looks fine in every other way. Do you
have any other advice? Thanks so much for you help.
Deanna
<Just time going by, your good care. BobF>
Strange white marks on goldfish, not Ich.
9/25/12
Hi WWM crew,
<Jo>
I apologise if this has been asked elsewhere but I can't find anything
similar. I have a 125L unheated tank, with 2 fancy goldfish (2 years
old), a Hillstream loach (1 yr old), 3 variatus platies (1 year old), 3
Ramshorn snails and 2 Nerites. Only one fancy goldfish is showing
symptoms which I first noticed yesterday and a lot worse today. He has
very small white flecks on his fins and body. The best way I can
describe them is like white iron filings! I can't tell whether they are
on the surface or under the 'skin'. He is behaving normally, no clamped
fins and he has a healthy appetite. The only thing that is new to the
tank is a plant which I got from the local aquatics centre last week. My
fish have had Ich before and I am certain that this is something
different because the white things are more of a long, thin shape than a
round cyst. Each one is probably about 1-2mm in length. They don't seem
to be moving. They are on his body, fins and gill plates.
<Mmm, will discount the possibility/probability that this is something
pathogenic; as the other goldfish is unaffected; and strongly discourage
use of any "fish med.s", as these will too likely be toxic to the
Hillstream loach and snails... and possibly the plant/s>
Water tests: 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and 15 nitrate (due a water change).
I'm afraid I am unable to capture a photograph as the fish moves to
<too> much for my camera to cope.
Thank you for any advice you can give. I don't want to go through a
cycle of trying all sorts of different medications and making things
worse.
Thank
fully only one fish looks I'll at the moment and I hope to catch it
before it spreads!
Kind regards
Jo
<I urge simply patience and observation here... along w/ the usual
partial water changes... I'd just wait and see at this point. Bob
Fenner>
Quarantine for Goldfish? 7/18/12
Hi,
<Salve!>
I'm about to go and pick up two last minute rescue goldfish (a common
and a fantail), to add to my existing two, and I wondered if I need to
quarantine them?
<If you can, and have the space, this is an extremely good idea. Doubly
so with Goldfish, which are often maintained that bit less well than
tropical fish, so are exposed to more stress/diseases.>
I know it's recommended for marine aquariums, but I couldn't see
anything about freshwater (I may have missed the relevant information in
my haste - I didn't know I was getting them until three hours ago, but
they were about to get flushed, so what can you do?). If so, how long
should I quarantine for?
<Oh, a couple of weeks is generally enough time for disease-causing
organisms like Whitespot to make their presence known, but four weeks
would be ideal. The word "quarantine" itself comes from the Italian, and
literally means "forty days", referring to what was perceived to be the
right length of time during the Middle Ages.>
My only spare tank is 15 gallons, is this OK? My understanding of
quarantine tank set up is as follows (please let me know if anything is
wrong!): No substrate, filter with filter media from the big tank, half
water from the big tank, half new treated water, maybe a couple of
ornaments.
<All correct. 15 gallons will be adequate for smallish Goldfish up to
around 8 cm/3 inches, at least across the short term.>
Sorry if this has been asked a million times already - I've only had
time to skim read!
Thanks
Amy.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Quarantine for Goldfish? 7/18/12
Hi Neale,
Thanks so much for your help! One snag, though - the fish are HUGE!
Almost five inches minus tails (I was misinformed about the fantail -
It's actually a Shubunkin!). They're in the 15 gallon at the moment,
which is at least more spacious than the BiOrb thing they came in. So,
on balance, is it still better to quarantine them, knowing the tank is a
bit on the small side?
Thanks,
Amy.
<Tough call. See what water quality is like; if there's non-zero ammonia
and/or nitrite, then you're exposing the fish to a dress factor that
could bring on Finrot. But if water quality is okay, and you're able to
filter appropriately and do adequate water changes, then quarantining
makes sense.
On balance, I'd only keep 1-2 fish this size in a 15-gallon tank, and
even then for a short period, a couple weeks maybe. More fish than that,
I'd move them into the main aquarium, and simply be alert to possible
problems.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Quarantine for Goldfish? 7/21/12
Hi Neil,
I don't think the quarantine tank is working out. I took readings
yesterday of 1ppm ammonia and 0.25ppm nitrite, did a 50% water change,
then took readings again tonight and they're back up to 1ppm ammonia and
0.25 nitrite, after 24 hours!
<Not good, I admit.>
I'm doing another 50% water change now, but I think I'd better get them
out of there.
<Yes.>
The only slight worry is that both of them seem to be tilted slightly to
the side - could this be a contagious disease? Or is it ammonia
poisoning?
I even wonder if it's because they're used to swimming around in a
globe!
<Where's the ambient light coming from? Goldfish (and many other fish)
lean such that the brightest light shines on their backs, and if the
lighting comes from the side, they'll tilt somewhat, trying to find a
compromise between light and gravity. Otherwise, constipation is the
most common cause of swimming problems with Goldfish, especially fancy
Goldfish; see below:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/gldfshmalnut.htm
Peas and Epsom salt work wonders!>
Anyway, my main question is this: If I do put them in the main aquarium,
what symptoms of contagious disease should I be looking out for?
<Doesn't sound contagious, so I'd not worry.>
Thanks again,
Amy.
<Welcome, Neale.>
Re: Dropsy/Metronidazole dosage question. For GF?
6/5/12
Hello there! I'm re-sending this because my email had some issues and I
didn't know if you were able to receive this from last night. If you've
gotten it already please disregard this. I hope to hear from you soon.
Meanwhile I'm still searching for that link. Thank you again.
> -36 gal. Bowfront tank
> -2 Goldies approximately 5 inches head to tail (one fantail, one
Ryukin)
> - med. gravel, one chewed up plant and river rocks
> - two hob filters (40-50 g/hr total)
> -temp. 77-88 degrees F. It's a bit hot, but I live in Florida and they
> seem to do well, that being said, no heater.
> -ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 4-5, ph is around the lower 8s'
> Hello Crew,
> My name is Dawn. I've been battling constipation and as of last week
> Dropsy problem for months.
<Have you searched, read on WWM re Dropsical conditions. Metronidazole
is not a cure for such>
I started trying to treat things from the least
> aggressive methods first then I progressed and now I'm desperate.
Peas,
> aquarium/ Epsom salts, Maracyn II, and now I just managed to get my
hands
> on some Metronidazole. I've searched and read through WWM for all of
these
> treatments and the only thing I don't think I've done yet is the
> Metronidazole. My fish is currently on the last two treatments for the
> Maracyn II and it isn't doing much. I've also been doing 1/3 water
changes
> every night just in case since I've started the meds. I've been doing
some
> reading and I saw on one of the FAQs that Mr. Fenner suggested using
> Metronidazole.
<For? Where is this posted exactly?>
I'm willing to try that so I went to a few fish stores to
> get it, but evidently they don' t have that for fish here where I
live.
> Desperate I called the vets and tried to pass things off like I wanted
> to get some for the dogs, and by the by, this also didn't work. So, I
> bamboozled my physician into prescribing me some and now I've got it.
> Although I know the chance now are slim I still can't sit and wait for
the
> poor thing to die. Anyway I concur, the fish has pineconed and if I
thought
> I had the time I would order the Metronidazole via the internet. I'm
leery
> about how to administer the meds and give the right amount per the
size of
> the fish. I remember reading somewhere here the dosage to give, but
for the
> life of me I can't find that page again. My questions are, one if I'm
doing
> the right things in medicating and treating the fish, and two if you
could
> possibly send me the link to the page I'm looking for or let me know
how to
> administer the Metronidazole. Also, if the medication differs for
human
> consumption. They are 500 mg capsules.
> Thank you so much for the sight and for your help.
> Dawn
<Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/metranidazole.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Dropsy/Metronidazole dosage question. Update 6/5/12
Ok, I do apologize for the bombarding you with emails so rapidly. I
wanted to let u know I've found the link I was looking for and know how
to give it to the fish now, however that sparked another question. In
the FAQ it said to give the fish half a crushed capsule of Metronidazole
soak in pellets for ten minutes. The capsule referred to in the said LFS
page though, is for fish from the LFS and mine is made for
humans.
<It, the compound, is identical>
I have a niggling suspicion that half of a 500mg Metronidazole capsule
for a 5 inch fish is over-"kill". That being said, my question now
is.... How can I figure out correct amount to give the fish?
<The same reading:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/metranidazole.htm
B>
Re: Attn: Bob. Dropsy/Metronidazole dosage question.
6/5/12
Yikes! I found in on the first link of Floaty/Bloaty Goldfish I guess I
misunderstood. Glad I checked first. Thank you for the link Bob. Oh and
one more mistake on my part, it wasn't Bob that was the helping it was
Magnus I think. I guess I was frantic and started skimming through the
searches.
Lesson learned. Thank you again!
<Ah, welcome. BobF>
Re: Attn: Bob F. Dropsy/Metronidazole dosage question.
6/6/12
<... you've sent some six megs of images... we ask all to limit to
hundreds of Kbytes...?>
Hi again. Just an update, I am going to set up a qt tank for him after I
write this. I came home today to find him about the same with the
exception for two things, there is a bubble on his left gill and
there used to be a darker (red) coloration on his right abdomen
underneath his scales now it's either not there or I am not seeing it
because of the pineconed scales.
The bubble/blister/slime build up is on his right gill like I said; it
looks as though someone sucker punched him in the cheek. I'm going to
attach a few pictures I've taken.
<... none show this>
Hopefully you will get a better idea of his condition.
I've read through the link that you redirected me to, thank goodness,
and I've searched for dropsicle.
<?>
I've noticed the heat and salt method and also have seen a post about
someone's comet that has the almost the same issue.
Her comet only pineconed on one side and I suppose this means something
significant.(? Will be looking into this also) I will be doing more
reading, but right now I'd like to finish the Maracyn II treatment in
the qt tank so that the other fish won't be affected anymore by the
meds.
Because of him blowing up only on one side I am not sure whether I
should go with the first choice of antibiotics (the Metronidazole) or
start doing the heat and salt treatment. In my last message I forgot to
add that their diet consists of Spirulina flakes, organic baby food peas
(less mess), Hikari floating pellets, sometimes blanched spinach,
seaweed for freshwater fish, and frozen combination worm/plant cubes
from the LFS. After seeing the picture what do you think I should try
next?
<Patience. Dropsical conditions are very hard to improve on... just good
care, water quality and time going by. Treatments are of no real worth;
and quite often trouble. B>
|
|
Dropsy/Metronidazole dosage
question. Again...
6/6/12
-36 gal. Bowfront tank
-2 Goldies approximately 5 inches head to tail (one fantail, one Ryukin)
- med. gravel, one chewed up plant and river rocks
- two hob filters (40-50 g/hr total)
-temp. 77-88 degrees F. It's a bit hot, but I live in Florida and they seem
to do well, that being said, no heater.
-ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 4-5, ph is around the lower 8s'
Hello Crew,
My name is Dawn. I've been battling constipation and as of last week
Dropsy problem for months. I started trying to treat things from the least
aggressive methods first then I progressed and now I'm desperate. Peas,
aquarium/ Epsom salts, Maracyn II, and now I just managed to get my hands on
some Metronidazole. I've searched and read through WWM for all of these
treatments and the only thing I don't think I've done yet is the
Metronidazole. My fish is currently on the last two treatments for the
Maracyn II and it isn't doing much. I've also been doing 1/3 water changes
every night just in case since I've started the meds. I've been doing some
reading and I saw on one of the FAQs that Mr. Fenner suggested using
Metronidazole. I'm willing to try that so I went to a few fish stores to get
it, but evidently they don' t have that for fish here where I live.
Desperate I called the vets and tried to pass things off like I wanted to
get some for the dogs, and by the by, this also didn't work. So, I
bamboozled my physician into prescribing me some and now I've got it.
Although I know the chance now are slim I still can't sit and wait for the
poor thing to die. Anyway I concur, the fish has pineconed and if I thought
I had the time I would order the Metronidazole via the internet. I'm leery
about how to administer the meds and give the right amount per the size of
the fish. I remember reading somewhere here the dosage to give, but for the
life of me I can't find that page again. My questions are, one if I'm doing
the right things in medicating and treating the fish,
<No... as you've been referred to read on WWM>
and two if you could possibly send me the link to the page I'm looking for
or let me know how to administer the Metronidazole. Also, if the medication
differs for human consumption. They are 500 mg capsules.
Thank you so much for the sight and for your help.
Dawn
<... why are you resending this? B> |
GF mouth stuck open/closed 3/4/12
I have been caring for 2 Common Goldfish and one Golden Dojo Loach for about a
year now and none have had problems until about 2 months ago.
One day I accidently dropped their food container in the tank and they ate most
of the container. (over-fed) None of the other fish had any symptoms except one.
One of the fish’s left gill and mouth can barely open which makes it hard for it
to breathe. It is slowly starving to death and I don’t know what to do.
It can’t open its mouth like before and therefore it can’t eat. I’m hoping you
could help me as I find your site to be very resourceful ! thanks
<Mmm, well, maybe the mouth cartilage was over-extended, and "locked" into a
permanently closed condition... could be unrelated, that the one fish has gotten
a rock/gravel lodged in the joint here. It is worthwhile w/ anesthetic (clove
oil, outside the tank water, see WWM re) or w/o, to hold the fish in a wet
towel, try to open the mouth, investigate w/ a dull wood toothpick for
obstruction. Bob Fenner>
Re: GF mouth stuck open 3/13/12
I once took it out in a wet towel and tried to open its mouth and see if
anything was stuck but nothing seemed to be stuck and i could open its mouth
full size without any trouble but once back in the water he went right back to
opening his mouth only a little bit and I've just noticed that one of his gills
is almost curved backwards rather than being straight and his eyes are bulging
out really badly which could only be because he's shrunk in size but idk. thanks
<Not good. BobF>
Damaged gills/ GF 3/3/12
Hello WWM crew:
I have a Lionhead and a Black moor goldfish together in a 50 gallon tank:
they were raised together and both are approximately 2 years old.
The Lionhead has been uncharacteristically lethargic for the past 4 weeks or so,
hanging out near the water outlet for the filter. I examined the gills of both
fish today and the Moor's gills look nice and healthy and even. The Lionhead's
gills are a great colour but look like they have been macerated in patches along
the edges (probably the cause of the lethargy)
<Mmm, maybe>
. No other fish or supplies have come into contact with these two fish.
I did a gill inspection several months ago and did note a very tiny bit of
damage to the edge of the Lionhead's gills at that time. It has gotten worse.
My first thought was flukes-
<Mine too>
is it possible to have one fish with disrupted gills but not the other?
Could anything else cause this?
<Genetics, perhaps physical trauma... >
Thank you: GDA
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
|
New Print and
eBook on Amazon
Goldfish Success
What it takes to keep goldfish healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
|
|
|